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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  Wi^ST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


>" 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


^J^ 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  iny  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checlced  below. 


D 


D 


D 
D 
D 
D 
D 

D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  M  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppidmentaires; 


L'institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  dt6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  d6tails 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


The( 
to  th 


I      I    Pages  damaged/ 


D 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6\ach6es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualit6  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I  I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

rT~l  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I  I  Pages  detached/ 

I  1  Showthrough/ 

I  I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I  I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I  I  Only  edition  available/ 


Thei 
poss 
of  th 
filmi 


Origj 
begii 
the  I 
sion, 
othe 
first 
sion, 
or  ill 


The 
shall 
TINL 
whic 

Map 
diffe 
entir 
begi 
right 
requ 
mett 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6X6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

lire 

details 
jes  du 

modifier 
)er  une 

filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  couiiition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  kee3ing  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


i6es 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grSce  d  la 
gdn^rositi  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  filmds  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^-  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


ire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


ly  errata 
Bd  to 

int 

ne  pelure, 

ipon  d 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

r 


N 


■V  -^ 


I 


/J 


SKETCHES 


ON 


^  ffi:ottr 


TimOLGU    TIIC 


iNORTHERN  AND  EASTERN  STATES, 


f 


THE  CANADAS  &  NOVA  SCOTIA, 


BY  J.  C.  MYERS. 


HARRISONBURG 


J.    ir.    WARTMANN    AND     BROTflKRF.    Tlkf . 


184^ 


M 


272088 


M 


«•  > 


i. 


3?*** 


\ 


.h 


4. 


FRi:rA(K, 


While  on  a- tour  to  the  North  and  Kast,  durinj?  thd 
mouths  o£  May,  Juno  and  July,  1848,  1  took  notes  on  the 
piincipal  objects  of  attraction  which  presented  (liemselvcs 
to  my  view,  which,  after  my  return  home,  I  revised  at  my 
leisure  hours,  by  prefixing  a  short  sketch  of  the  general  as- 
pect of  each  Slate,  for  the  sole  purpose  of  refreshing  my 
memory  in  after  days,  and  for  the  inspection  of  several  of 
my  friends.  To  these  sketches  I  added  the  population  of 
many  of  the  cities,  towns  and  villages,  as  given  by  the  cen- 
sus of  1840,  so  that  I  might  the  better  test  their  growth  in 
future,  should  occasion  require.  I  also  added  several  his- 
torical sketches,  together  with  occasional  remarks. 

The  memorandum  thus  sketched,  I  have  been  induced 
by  several  of  my  friends  to  publish,  which  is  done  with  a 
good  deal  of  reluctance, — because  no  thonght  of  such  a 
thing  occurred  to  me  during  my  tour,  or  I  should  not  have 
rushed  over  my  route  in  so  short  a  space  of  time,  but  would 
have  supplied  myself,  (as  1  would  have  h.ad  abundant  op- 
portunities of  doing.)  with  sufficient  materials  for  a  work 
which  would  have  been  useful  and  interesting.  While  on 
the  other  hand,  the  materials  which  compose  the  little 
volume  here  olTered,  were  oidy  sketched  in  a  small  mem- 
orandum book,  while  in  the  pre.sence  of  the  object.  The 
notes  thus  taken  during  ihe  day,  were  again  sketched  as- 
sisted by  memorV;  and  placed  in  another  memorandum 
book  during  the  evening,  when  alone  in  my  room.  The 
reader  therefore,  must  not  expect  the  life  and  freshness  of 
a  finished  picture ;  but  mere  sketches  and  outlines, — nor 
that  minute  exactness  of  detail  on  many  subjects,  which 
may  be  desirable,  although  I  believe  that  the  sketches  will 
bci  found  to  be  gencralh  accurutc.     For  the  truth  of  the 


i 


I 


r 


i   I 


\0  ■ 


,- 


ir 


r  R  c  F  A  e  £. 


facts  Btated  oh  my  own  knowledge  I  vouch,  and  those  sla- 
ted on  the  information  of  others  I  believe  to  be  true;  for 
many  of  which  1  am  indebted  to  some  of  the  good  people 
of  the  North  and  East,  whom  I  ever  found  as  ready  and 
willing  to  give  information  as  I  could  be  to  ask  it. 

The  sketches  thus  collected,  being  written  out  at  leisure 
hours  in  the  manner  first  described,  exclusively  for  my  own 
use  and  several  friends,  by  writing  them  in  a  simple,  plain, 
plantation  manner,  reserving  to  each  State,  County  and 
City  their  respective  scenery  as  [passed  them  on  my  route. 
In  this  same  manner  they  are  olfered  to  the  public,  with- 
out even  being  written  over  again  or  revised  for  the  press; 
so  that  the  author,  for  the  purpose  of  dividing  the  sketches 
into  chapters,  was  compelled  to  insert  strips  of  paper,  on 
each  of  which  was  written  the  contents  of  the  chapter, 
which  is  of  itself  a  convincing  proof  that  the  sketches  were 
not  originally  designed  for  the  public.  Had  the  author  de- 
signed the  materials  even  thus  hastily  collected,  for  the 
public  eye,  he  would  have  prepared  them  in  a  different 
manner,  and  not  have  given  them  to  the  gaze  of  the  world 
in  the  manner  here  presented. 

The  hurried  manner  in  which  these  sketches  were  col- 
lected and  (heir  private  design,  it  is  hoped  wiil  be  a  suffi- 
cient apology  for  the  style  in  which  they  are  prepared,  in 
noticing  many  cities,  towns,  villages,  and  perhaps  some 
other  objects,  which  might  be  considered  by  some,  as  be- 
ing more  wearisome  and  tedious  than  interesting  and  use- 
ful, and  also  for  such  remarks  as  may  be  found  in  the  work, 
together  with  the  absence  of  proper  language  and  correct 
spelling ;  for  the  absence  of  capital  letters  at  proper  pla- 
ces;  the  classification  of  correct  sentences,  &c. ;  and  for 
the  presence  of  such  errors  as  may  be  found  in  this  little 
volume.  THE  AUTHOR. 

New  Hope,  Va  ,  1849. 


As 


ibosc  sia- 
trnej  for 
id  people 

t. 

.  at  leisure 

or  my  ow" 
iple,  plain, 
lomity  and 
11  my  route, 
iblic,  wiil»- 
i-  the  prP98 ; 
he  sketches 
)f  paper,  on 
he  chapter, 
etches  were 
16  author  de- 
nted, foi-  l^^e 
a  different 

of  the  world 


rs  were  col- 
|iil  be  a  sufh- 
prepared,  in 
erhaps  some 
some,  as  be- 
lting and  use- 
din  the  work, 
and  correct 
[t  proper  pla- 
l&c. ;  and  for 
in  this  little 
AUTHOR. 


CONTENTS. 


PkErACB, Page  3. 

C  H  A  P  T  E  R    I. 

District  of  Columbia. 

Aspect  of  the  District;  site  and  plan  of  the  city  of  Washington  ; 
west  front  of  the  Capitul  ;  jMonument ;  east  front  of  the  Ciipi- 
lol  ;  Btatuo  of  Washington  ;  statue  of  Coluinbns ;  rehevos  ; 
statues  of  pence  and  war  ;  Capitol  ;  rotundo  ;  paintings  ;  relie- 
vos ;  Hall  of  lleprescntatives  ;  SiMiate  Chamber ;  central  dome; 
President's  House  ;  War  and  Navy  departments;  State  and 
Treasury  departments;  Post  (3(Hce department ;  Patent  OtHce; 
National  Museum  ;  clothes  and  dishes  ot  General  Washing- 
ton ;  Printmg  Press  of  Dr.  Franklin;  Navy-Yard;  Columbia 
College  ;  Congressional  burial-ground  ;  Georgetown  ;  Catholic 
College  ;  National  Observatory, 10 

CHAPTER    II. 

Stato  of  Maryland. 

Aspect  of  the  State ;  Villages;  Annapolis;  Old  Sta  House, 
Baltimore;  Washington  Monument;  Battle  Monumejit;  Ex- 
change ;  City  Hall ;  State  Penitentiary  ;  University  ;  Cathe- 
dral ;  Hospital  ;  Washington  Medical  College;  Commerce; 
Manufactures;  Fort  M'llenry  ;  Chesapeake  Bay;  North 
Point, • 32 

CHAPTER    III. 
State  of  Delaware. 

A^ipect  of  the  State;  Swamps;  Fruit  Trees;  Chesapeake  and 
Delaware  Canal ;  New  Castle  ;  Wilmington  ;  Manufactures  ; 
Arsenal  ;  Hospital, 38 


\L 


'I 


I 


I 


r  H  A  PT  K  U     [  V^. 

State  of  New  Jcis::y. 

Afjiert  of  llift  Sljito  ;  lied  rJaiik  ;  INIml  Isl.iiul  ;  C.'atndcn  ;  Hiir- 
linirtou  ;  Bvr«k!n>uwii  ,  Into  rc>«iilt  mpo  ol  Jonrpli  Monupart'c  ; 
IMaiiiH  ofMoiimoutli -,  Sonlli  Aiuboy  ;  yiniit  of  Aiulmy,  .  4'2 

CHAP  T  E  R    V. 

State  of  Now  York. 

Asppct  of  llio  State  ;  City  of  New  York  ;  nnfural  advnntajres  of 
the  cily  ;  throng's  of  peojile  ;  C'ity  Hall  ;  vi«w  from  the  cupo- 
la;  Exchange  ;  Astor  House;  Custom  House;    Halls  of  Juk- 
ticG  ;  Post  Olfico  ;  IJattcry  ;  Union  Park  ;  Castle  Garden  }  ^^^ 
hunbia  Colleije  ;  Hosj)ital ;  Asylum  ;  University, 47 

C  H  A  P  T  E  R    V  I. 

American  Museum  ;  jjreat  eoUeclion  of  curiosities  ;  Paintinjrs  ; 
Sfriptural  statuary  ;  Jewish  Saidiedrim  ;  High  Priest;  Cai- 
])has  ;  dress  of  the  Hig!i  IMcsIs  ;  Scrihos  and  Lawyer;  Bar- 
rahbas  ;  executioners  ;  figure  of  the  Saviour;  llomni.  Council  ; 
l*oulius  Pilate  ;  Pilate's  wife  ;  Mcsius  Quintus  ;  position  of  tho 
Council ;  Homan  guards;  Scriptural  sketch  ;  atlecti»g  scene  ; 
<leath  warrant  of  Jesus  ;  sketcli  of  its  discovery  ;  HalJ  of  Re- 
cords,       58 

C  II  A  P  T  E  R    V  I  T. 

KiVecis  ofsteaiTi  ;  book  bindery  ;  Arsenal  ;  Trinity  Church  ;  Graoo 
Church;  INIonunu'iils ;  Broadway  Tabeinacdc  ;  Croton  water- 
works; Coaches  ;  Brooklyn  ;  Atlantic  dock  ;  (Irocnwood  cem- 
etery ;  East  river, , 74 

C  II  A  P  T  E  R    V  J  I  T, 

Departure  ;  competition  on   the    Hudson;   Tarrytown  ;   Sleepy 
Jlollow  ;  Siiig-Sino;  ;  pros^pcrt  ;  Slate  Pnspp  :  Palisades;  Sto- 


C    »  N   I  F.  N  T  i^  . 


MM. 


Icn  ;  Hnr- 
lonuj»art«  ; 
kl.oy,  .  4-i 


ilio  cupo- 
11s  of  Juv- 
II r den  V  ^®* 

....    47 


Paitituijra  ; 

riesl  -,  Cai- 
wyer  ;  Bar- 

I.  Covincil  ; 

itiou  ot'lho 
ctiMij  acene  ; 

lull  of  Re- 

.  .  .    r»8 


nrdi  ;  Graoo 
rot  on  watcr- 
inwood  cein- 
....  74 


,\vn;  Sleepy 
ilisadcs:  Sto- 


tt3  Voinl;  Hifclorical  sketcli ;  moimtnin  peaks  ;  HtiHiCMinloa 
Miiui  Montgomery;  West  Point;  Military  Academy  ;  Halls  and 
?MuldiiiirK  ;  Fort  irteations  ;  delightful  lo(ali«n  ;  MoHvirrwnt  of 
l\«HkiMBk«;  n»onBtain  peaks  ;  iVcwHurg;  towns;  Hudson  city; 
Mbipping;  Alliens:  Catskill ;  (^atskill  mountain  ;  hotel  ;  proe- 
pcct, 82 

€  11  A  P  T  E  U    1  X, 

All>Any  ;  Krio  nnd  Champlain  canals  ;  basin  ;  bo.i  ts  ;  sito  of  Al- 
bany ;  Heights  ;  prospect ;  Capitol  nqiiare  ;  City  Hall ;  Stato 
Hall ;  Academies  ;  Capitol ;  public  buildings  ;  old  biiiklings  ; 
public  6<iuares ;  streets  ;  Greenbush  ;  railroads  ;  Troy  ;  public 
buildtags;  iastitutions ;  manufactures;  steamboats-,  water 
power;  railroads  4  streets  ;  Mounts  Olympus  and  Ida;  pr»8- 
poct  ;  landslip;  Quaker  village  ;  dress  and  niodo  of  worship  ; 
scenory  of  the  Hudson;  departure  for  Butlulo, 93 

C  H  A  P  T  K  R    X, 

Schenectady;  lii^torical  sketch  ;  Mo!  awk  valley;  Ericcar^al^ 
bridge  ; Union  College ;  towns  ;  Litllo  Falls;  Utica  ;  sito  of 
fort  Schuyler ;  historical  sketch;  Lujiatic  Asylum;  bridges; 
plains  of  Oriskany  ;  Trenton  Falls  ;  in)poslng  scenery ;  Rome : 
r«flecii<»ns  on  the  great  progress  of  the  country  ;  towns ;  Syra- 
cuse 4  Saliiia;  Onondaga  Salt  Springs  ;  towns  ;  Aubuin  ;  Stato 
Prison ;  Cayuga  Lake:;  bridge  ;  Seneca  Lake  ;  Seneca  Falls ; 
villages  ;  Genesee  valley  ;  Rochester ;  great  aqueduct ;  Gone- 
see  Falls  ;  manufactures  ;  public  buildings;  Krie  canal ;  bridg- 
es ;  high  slate  of  agriculture  ;  LeRay  Falls  ;  toAvns,  .  .  .    104 

CHAPTER    XL 

BufFalo;  loeatton.;  destruction  by  the  British;  Erie  carval  ;  Lake 
Erie; commerce;  Breakwater;  churches;  literary  institutions; 
Orpliaa  Asylum  ;  high  state  of  agriculture  ;  dwelling-hous€s8  ; 
glairy  houses;  barns;  tanks;  muck  heap;  bam  yards;  raa- 
jHures  ;  reflections ;  ashes ;  mode  of  using  ashcp;  lime  ;  agency 
c^hmc  \  modes  of  using   lime;,   mode  of  preparing  land  ib; 


V    ( 


5     I 


VIII 


V.  O  N  T  E  N  T  ». 


wheat  ;  advantages  ofsub-aoil  plowing  ;  kinds  of  wheat;  vprinjf 
crops;  rotation  in  crops;  ruuiarks  on  the  state  ofagticulture, 
121 

C  H  A  P  T  E  R    X  T  I  . 

Theory  of  pastuie  lands;  pasturing  meadows;  clover  ;  timothy  ; 
fttoding  stock  ;  steaming  apparatus  ;  plows ;  drill  barrows ;  roll- 
ers ;  under-draining  ;  advantages  of  under-draining  lands ;  Ca- 
nadian thistle  ;  hirds;  cutting  timber;  planting  fruit  trees; 
mode  of  culture  ;  pruning;  kinds  of  fruit, 140 

CHAPTER    X  I  T  T. 

Education  of  the  farmer ;  hospitality  ;  desire  for  agricultural 
knowledge;  remarks  on  the  progress  and  science  of  agricul- 
ture ;  daparture  for  Niagaia  Falls  ;  black  rock  ;  Niagara  river ; 
ferry  boat ;  approach  of  the  Falls  from  black  rock  ;  Navy  Isl- 
and ;  bridge ;  American  rapid  ;  Goat  Island ;  Great  or  llorse- 
ShoeFall;  narrow  rapid  ;  tower;  grand  scene;  platform  on 
the  verge  of  the  American  fall ;  Point  View  garden;  Chinese 
Pagoda  and  Camera  Obscura;  delightful  prospect ;  ferry  stair- 
case; foot  of  the  American  fall;  ferry  boat ;  towering  cliffs; 
sublime  scene  ;  Canadian  shore  ;  table  rock ;  prospect ;  foot  of 
the  Horse-Shoe  fall ;  passing  behind  the  fall ;  terrific  sands; 
height  of  the  fall ;  recession  of  the  cataract, 154 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

Remarks  on  the  recession  of  the  fall ;  Goat  Island  ;  old  deserted 
channel ;  Dovirs  hole  ;  Bloody  run;  excavation;  plains  of 
Chippewa  ;  historical  sketch  ;  burning  springs ;  village  of  Ni- 
agara ;  departure  ;  suspension  bridge  ;  whirlpool  rapids ;  Ro- 
man's run;  awful  scene;  Lewiston  ;  Indians;  Queenstown 
1  eights ;  Brock ,8  monument ;  prospect ;  VVelland  canal ;  Lake 
Ontario  ;  refraction  or  mirage^;  Toronto  ;  high  ridge  ;  military 
importance  of  Toronto  ;  beauties  of  Lake  Ontario  ;  ducks  and 
loons  ;  Oswego  ;  manufactures ;  steamer  British  Empire ;  SacH- 
et's  harbour, 17*^ 


C  O  N  T  n  N  T  » . 


IX 


C  H  A  P  T  F:  R    X  V. 

Cppor  Canada. 

Departure  for  C  Miada  ;  Kingston  ;  Ridcuii  and  Circnvillo  Cuniil  ; 
Wolf  and  Long  Islands  ;  roint  llenry  ;  harbour  ;  naval  depot ; 
Plateau ;  magnificent  view  ;  bridgu  ;  streets  ;  fortifications  ; 
public  buildings  ;  granite  icgion  ;  Lake  Cataraqui  or  Thousand 
Isles  ;  picturesque  scenery;  fright  of  the  passengers;  river  St. 
Lawrence  ;  Johnstown  district ;  Brockville  ;  Ogdensburg  ;  ru- 
ins of  Prescott;  late  Canadian  revolt  ;  New  York  Sympathi- 
zers ;  wind-mill  ;  Eastern  District ;  cities  and  towns ;  Corn- 
wall;  complaints  against  the  New  York  sympathizers;  Lake 
St.  Francis;  Coteau  du  Lac  ;  Capcade  rapids;  scenery;  iiver 
St.  Lawrence;  Lake  St.  Louis, 185 

CHAPTER    XVI. 

Lower  Canada. 

La  Chien ;  approach  to  Montreal ;  French  language ;  French 
porters ;  Ottawa  hotel ;  Montreal ;  location ;  Montreal  moun- 
tain ;  Cote  de  Neige  ;  prospect ;  marine  shell ;  St.  Henri ;  Cote 
St.  Pierre ;  trade  ;  wharves ;  St.  Patrick  Church  ;  French  Ca- 
thedral ;  towns  ;  banking  house ;  Provmcia)  Capitol  ;  Hall  of 
Representatives  ;  rotundo  :  paintings  ;  fortifications  ;  deser- 
tion ;  Guard-house  ;  Nelson  monument;  streets;  Canadian 
horse  ;  cab ;  rapid  gait  of  driving  horses ;  scene  on  the  wharves; 
Island  of  Montreal ;  high  state  of  cultivation  ;  country  dwel- 
lings ;  barns ;  fences  ;  departure  ;  steamer  Lord  Sydenham,  192 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

Lake  St.  Peter;  alluvial  flats;  city  of  Three  Rivers  ;  cities  and 
towns  ;  approach  of  Quebec ;  Point  Levi ;  Cape  Diamond  ;  Isl- 
and of  Orleans  ;  river  St.  Lawrence ;  harbour ;  Quebec ;  Albi- 
on hotel  ;  walls  of  the  city  ;  houses ;  streets  ;  beggars  ;  French 
guide  ;  permit ;  approach  t-*  the  Citadel ;  redoubts  ;  entrance 
into  the  Citadel  ;  British  cifHcer  ;  East  wall;  irnpresnions  of 
1* 


1  < 


i' 


X  t ;  o  N  T  1.:  N  r  >  . 

cannon  shot;  lifM<:jlit  of  thn  C'ita<lol  ahove  the  St.  Lawrenco  ; 
West  Will! ;  hattory  ;  plains  of  Abrahain ;  North  wall  ;  South 
Wall ;  arsenal  ;  inajrnificcnt  view  ;  grand  scenery  ;  strength  of 
tincbcc  ;  well  of  water  ;  barracks  ;  Scotch  soldiers;  singular 
dress  ;  coldness  of  the  weather  ;  guard-house  ;  secret  redoubt ; 
heights  of  Abraham  ;  ascent  of  Wolf ;  strange  incidents  con- 
nofted  with  this  aftair;  battle-ground;  Wolf's  monument; 
teams  of  dogs  ;  Governor's  garden  ;  monamenl, 202 

CHAP  T  E  R    X  V  T  I  I. 

C'athedial ;  wealth  of  the  Catholic  church  ;  Seminary  Chapel; 
Romanism  ;  Catholic  procession  ;  remark  ;  Indian  Lorette  and 
Nunnery  ;  grand  battery  ;  death  of  Montgomery  ;  Santan 
Matelot ;  historical  sketch  ;  surrender  of  the  Americans,     216 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

Excursion  to  the  country  ;  French  peasants  ;  Lakes  ;  products  of 
the  country  ;  Falls  of  Montmoiency  ;  faciorres  ;  Bublime  sce- 
nery ;  Beauport ;  St.  Michael ;  return  to  Quebec  ;  indications 
of  winter  ;  departure  of  the  fleet ;  Canadian  winter  ;  streets  of 
Quebec  ;  dress  in  winter ;  high  charges  in  Quebec  ;  departure; 
Chaudier  Falls;  arrival  at  Three  River  ;  Falls  of  Maskinon- 
go  ;  Jacques  Cartier  river ;  return  to  Montreal ;  politeness  of 
the  French  ;  theatre  ;  departure  ;  distant  view  of  Montreal ; 
beauties  of  the  St.  Lawrence;  La  Prairie  ;  barracks  ;  aspect  of 
the  country  ;  St.  John^s ;  historical  sketch  ;  swallows;  steamer 
Turlington, 224 

CHAPTER    XX. 

State  of  New  York. 

Lake  Champlain ;  fortifications ;  boundary  liiite  ;  Custom  house 
officer ;  Mount  Marcy  ;  Mount  Mansfield  ;  majestic  scenery  ; 
Canadian  soldier ;  M'Dono  ugh 's  capture  of  the  British  fleet; 
Plattsburg  ;  Port  Kent ;  Boulder  formation  ;  chasm  ;  water 
falls ;  White  Hall ;  railroads, ,  ...  235 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


CHAPTER    XXL 

Fort  Anne;  Sandy  Hill ;  Champlain  canal ;  uprooting  stumps 
by  an  engine  ;  Glen's  Falls ;  bridge  ;  caverns  ;  manufactures  ; 
marble  quarries ;  village  of  Glen's  Falls  :  Fort  Edward  ;  Sar- 
atoga Springs;  village  of  Saratoga;  streets;  siiade  trees; 
groves  ;  hotels  ;  mineral  waters  ;  great  popularity  of  the  wa- 
ters ;  liigh  rock  spring;  academy  ;  churches  ;  dwellings  ;  bow- 
ling alleys;  circular  railway  ;  cemetery  ;  monument ;  Sarato- 
ga Lake, 239 

CHAPTER    XXI  T. 

Bemis's  heights;  historical  sketch;  last  battle  of  Arnold  ii)  the 
cause  of  American  freedom  ;  anecdote  of  General  Gates  ; 
Conway  Cabal ;  Stillwater  ;  Lake  Georfire  ;  Alexandria  ;  Ti- 
condoroga  ;  Crown  Point, 948 

CHAPTER    X  X  I  I  T. 

State  of  Vermont. 

Aspect  of  the  State  ;  grazing;  Vergennes;  Burlington  ;  Univer- 
sity ;  streets;  harbour  ;  manufactures  ;  green  mountains ;  On- 
ion river  valley  ;  towns  ;  agriculture  ;  Montpelier ;  mountain 
scenery ;  State  House ;  towns  ;  barns;  feeding  stock;  sheep 
barn  ;  racks  or  mangers  ;  treatment  of  sheep  ;  dairy  ;  milk 
barn  ^  treatment  of  milk  oows;  butter  ;  cheese  room;  maple 
sugar  ;  sugar  camp, SJ53 

CHAPTER    XXIV. 


State  of  New  Hampshire. 

Aspect  of  the  State  ;  distant  view  of  the  White  Mountains  ;  vil- 
lages ;  White  Mountains ;  Mount  Washington  ;  ascent  to  the 
summit;  sublime  scenery;   notch;   river   Saco;   unequalled 
character  of  the  scenery  ;  course  of  the  river  Saco  ;   wildnesa 
oftho  region  ;  towns  ;  Lake  Winnipisoogee, 26G 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XXV. 

State  of  Maine. 

Aspect  of  the  State — Sabago  pond — towns — Portland — streets — 

City  Hall — Custom  House — Churches — Athenaeum — harbour 

— fortifications — break-water — light-house — observatory — 

commerce — turtle  shell — railroad  bridge — -hotel — steamer 

General  Warren — effects  of  the  sea  breeze — cities — Augusta 

— State    House — arsenal — towns — Bangor — manufactures — 

bridge — lumber — Theological  Seminary — Old  Town — Calais 

— dense  fogs — river  St.  Croix — forests — St.    Andrews — fishc- 

rios — St.  John — wharves — lumber— ship  building — coal  fields, 
2T0 

C  H  x\  P  T  E  R    X  X  V  I. 


K 
'- 


i^^  r 


Nova  Scotia. 

BayofFundy — Peninsula  of  Nova  Scotia — Annqj»olis — cliffs — 
red  mud — foot  prints  of  birds — muddy  waters  of  the  bay  of 
Fundy — Cape  Blomidon — high  tides  of  the  bay  of  Fundy — the 
Bore — awful  grandeur  of  the  Bore — embankments — cliffs  of 
sandstone — parallel  furrows  in  sandstone — latitude — masses  of 
ice — Basin  of  Mines — Minudie — cliffs  of  South  Joggins — 
height  of  the  cliff— grindstone  ledges — erect  fossil  trees — coal 
seams — various  ledges  of  the  cliff— number  of  the  fossil  trees 
— destructive  action  of  the  tides  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy — hasty 
conclusion  as  to  the  formation  of  the  cliff, 281 

CHAPTER    XXVII. 

Second  arrival  at  Minudie — departure — Windsor — potatoes — 
/culture — harvesting  and  storing  potatoes — Horton  Bluff— gyp- 
sum— Big  Kock — Rosens  Point — gypsiferous  series— blue  no- 
ses— Ardoise  hills — foggy  regions — Kalmid — sterility  of  the 
southern  portion  of  Nova  Scotia — progress  of  the  country — 
inhabitants — Highland  settlers — political  dissatisfaction — Hal- 
ifax>— surrounding  scenery — Museum — commerce — departure 


CONTENT?. 


Xlll 


streets — 
-harbour 
atory — 
-steamer 
-Augusta 
ctures — 
1 — Calais 
i;s — fishc- 
oal  fields, 
.  .  .   2T0 


B — cliffs — 
le  bay  of 
undy — the 
cliffs  of 
masses  of 
Joggins — 
rees — coal 
bssil  trees 
dy — hasty 
.  .  281 


jotatocs — 
Jluff— gyp- 
—blue  no- 
lity  of  the 
country — 
tion— Hal- 
-departure 


for    Massachusetts — dense  fogs — the  ocean — the    tempest — 
sublimity  of  the  ocean, 292 

CHAPTER    XXVII  I. 

State  of  Massachnsctts. 

Green  mountain  range — agriculture — shipping — aspect  of  the 
State— railroads — remarks  on  the  past  history  of  the  State — 
Gloucester — Cape  Anne — Salem — trade — East  India  Marine 
Society — witchcraft — historical  sketch — remark  on  the  delu- 
sion of  the  Colony— Lynn, 303 

CHAPTER    XXIX. 

Boston — site  of  Boston— harbour — bridges— State  House — statue 
of  Washington— four  large  marble  slabs  from  the  Beacon  hill 
moniimpn+,  with  inscriptions —representatives  hall — devices 
and  inscriptions—  dome — senate  chamber — arms  of  the  State 
— cap  of  Liberty — number  of  rooms — height  of  the  cupola — 
regulations— objects  seen  from  the  north  window  of  the  cupo- 
la— from  the  east  window— from  the  south  window — from  the 
west  window, 310 

CHAPTER    XXX. 

Faneuil  hall — view  from  the  cupola— old  buildings— paintings — 
Quincy  market — Custom  House— order  of  architecture— mu- 
seum—Massachusetts  General  Hospital — Court  House— Old 
State  House — houses  of  industry,  correction  and  reformation — 
Athenaeum — institution  for  the  blind— eye  and  ear  infirmary — 
Trinity  Church — St.  Paul's  Church — Park  street  Church- 
bridges— wharves — Boston  Common— valuation  of  the  common 
— remark — cemetery — pond — great  elm  tree,  ....,.,  396 

CHAPTER    XXX  L 

Celebration  of  the  4th  of  July— order  of  the  procession— the  af- 
ternoon— colours — national  salute~sky-rork«tK — position  a nrj 


XIV 


(;  o  >J  T  n  N  T  »  . 


appearance  of  the  apparatuses  connected  vyitli  the  fire-wo^ks 
—commencement  of  the  chief  part  of  the  fire-works— spoiitinir 
fire — circle  ofstars — statues,  dome,  American  eagle  and  ban- 
ners— sugar  refinery — a  portion  of  the  various  apparatuses  and 
processes  connected  with  the  refining  establishment,  .  .    340 

C  H  A  P  T  E  R    XXXI  T. 

Charleston— Bunker-Hill— Bunker-IIill  Monument— commence- 
ment of  the  monument — cost  of  the  ground — enclosure— west 
front — windows — charming  prospect— remark — lightning  rods 
— cost  of  the  monument— Navy- Yard — ship  houses— frigate 
Constitution — Dry  Dock— park  of  artill<»ry — park  of  anchors — 
singular  gun — rope  walk— marine  and  naval  hospital-Win- 
ter Hill, 353 

CHAPTER    XXXIII. 


K 


1^  [ 


Cambridge  Harvard  University — Professors— examination  of  ihe 
students— education  in  Massachusetts— bequests  and  donations 
— popular  libraries— heavy  sale  of  books — education  law— pop- 
ularity of  Professors  and  Tutors — Bible — Lexington — Monu- 
ment—towns— Lowell — manufactures — number  of  mills — cap- 
ital invested — number  of  operatives — number  of  schools — bank- 
ing institutions — Mr.  John  Lowell— Merrimack  valley — towns, 
362 


CHAPTER    XXXIV. 


re- 


state of  New  Hampshire. 

Nashua — manufactures — towns— Manchester — streets— buildings 
— Falls  of  Amoskeag — manufactupes— sad  accident — labour  of 
the  operatives  compared  with  slave  labour  of  the  South — abo- 
litionists of  New  England — emancipation  of  slavery — villages 
—Concord— bridges— State  House— State  Prison- -Merrimack 
Falh— railroads-  rclurn  to  Boston 373 


<  J  O  N  1   K  N  T  »  . 


XV 


»-wo?ks 
poutini? 
nd  ban- 
iisos  an<l 
.  .    340 


ninence- 
rc— west 
inff  rods 
{—frigate 
inchors — 
il--Win- 
.  .  .  353 


ion  of  ilio 
donations 
law—  pop- 
1— Monu- 
iills— cap- 
jls— bank- 
y— towns, 
.  .  362 


C  HAP  1'  K  U    X  X  X  V. 

State  of  lUIassachnsetts. 

Second  arrival  in  Boston— Greek  Slave— Sunday  Schools— e- 
quality  of  persons— liorses— Dorchester  heights — prospect — 
Qiiincy— old  mansion  of  John  Adams— Unitarian  Church  — 
tomb  of  John  Adams-  -Quincy  Church  yard— tomb  of  John  Q. 
Adams, 386 

CHAPTER    X  X  X  V  T. 

liOW  lands— towns— Plymouth"  Rock  of  Plymouth— remark- 
Pilgrim  Hall -contrast  between  iVprth  and  South  America - 
Cape  Cod — Barnstable — Yarmouth— Martha's  Vineyard— Ed- 
garton — wine  grapes— Gay  head — green  sand — shell-— shark 
teeth— Indians — sea  breeze — ponds — -spotted  tortoise — Vine- 
yard Sound — King  Crab, 39.j 

CHAPTER    XXXVII. 

State  of  Rhode  IsHand. 

Aspect  of  the  Southern  part  of  the  State — Newport— harbour- 
fortifications— fisheries — Narragansett  Bay — Mount  Hope — 
King  Philip — Warvvick — Providence— harbour — State  House 
— Dexter  Asylum — Friend's  Academy— Arcade— Brown  Uni- 
versity—Athenaenm— Churches — Roger  Williams— manufac- 
tures—railroads— Blackstone  Canal— towns 401 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII. 


-buildings 
-labour  of 
uth— abo- 
(T— villages 
VIorrimack 
...    373 


State  of  Massachusetts. 

Third  arrival  in  the  State— towns— Worcester— railroads— State 
Lunatic  Asylum — Antiquarian  Hall — villages — Brooktield — 
towns — Springfield — state  of  agriculture-  United  States  Ar- 
mory— gardens— cranberry  peas  and  beans — culture — hedges 
—  fences —posts,      40C 


XVI 


C  O  N  T  E  N  r  ?  . 


h-' 


CHAPTER    XXXIX. 

State  of  Connecticnt. 

Connecticut  valley — ponds — Connecticut  river— high  standard  of 
agriculture— equality  of  persons— birds— delightful  Ecenery— 
shade  trees — the  grape — gardens — screen  or  hurdle — unfenced 
portion  of  the  valley— sunken  fence — villages — Connecticut 
bridge — dwelling-houses — Hartford— State  House — City  Hall 
— Trinity  College — Athenaeum — American  Asylum — retreat 
for  the  Insane — manufactures — Rockv  Hill — historical  sketch 
— towns — barren  sand— New  Haven— harbour — State  House 
— State  Hospital — -Yale  College — mineralogical  cabinet — 
Trumbull  gallery — gardens — streets — avenues  of  shade  trees — 
public  square — remark — public  cemetery — East  Rock — pros 
pect— humming-birds— long  wharf— commerce, 412 

CHAPTER    XL. 
State  of  New  York. 

Long  Island  Sound — scenery — beauties  of  Long  Island  Sound — 
approach  of  the  city  of  New  York— the  country— shipping  of 
the  city  of  New  York — horses— battery — prospect,  ....  424 

CHAPTER    XLI. 
State  of  New  Jersey. 

Jersey  City — Newark — Manufactures — Elizabethtown — Marshy 
Lands — Villages — New  Brunswick — Rutger's  College — Th« 
ological  Seminary — Bridge — Dean's  Pond — Princeton  College 
— Shade  Trees — Theological  Seminary — Remark — Trenton 
— State  House — State  Prison — Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal 
— Falls  of  the  Delaware — Manufactures — Sanpink  Bridge  429 

CHAPTER    XLII. 
State  of  Pennsylvania. 

Aspect  of  the  State — Country  Buildings — Fences — German  pop- 


f 


C  O  N  T  K  N  T  .<  . 


XVll 


iandard  of 
ccenery— 
-unfenced 
onnecticut 

-City  Hall 
m— retreat 
ical  sketch 
^te  House 
cabinet-— 
lade  trees- 
Rock— pros 
.  .  .  .    412 


^nd  Sound— 
-shipping  of 
424 


own— Marshy 
:;ollege— Th» 
[iceton  College 
g^rk__-Trenton 
Raritan  Canal 
ink  Bridge  429 


ulation — Internal  Improvements — Aliens — Towns — Philadel- 
phia— Streets — Shade  Trees — Old  State  House — Prospect — 
Custom  House — Exchange — Order  of  Architecture — Navy 
Yard — Naval  Asylum — Alms  House — Hospital — Institution 
for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb— Eastern  State  Peiiitentiary — Univer- 
sity— St.  Stephen's  Church — Christ's  Church-Tomb  of  Frank- 
lin— Girard  College — Tickets  of  Admission — Omnihusses — 
l^aurel  Hill  Cemetery — Fair  mount  Water- Works — Omnihus- 
ses— Bridges — Learned  Institutions — Markets — Monument  of 
the  Treaty  of  Penn — Fire  Engines — Vulgar  Familiarity — In- 
tellectual condition  of  the  People,  435 

CHAPTER    XLIII. 

Inclined    Plane — Norristown — Bridge — Manufactures Valley 

Forge — Anecdote  of  Baron  Steuben — Villages — Reading — 
German  Language — Mountain  Gorge — Court  House — Man- 
ufactures  Bridges Union  Canal Mountain  Scenery 

Towns — Pottsville Coal  Trade Manufactures Lehigh 

Coal — Mountains — Forests Sweet  Fern Lehigh  Summit 

Mine — Railroad — Mules — Interesting  Scenery Towns 

Hairisburg — Streets — Prospect — State  House Panoramic 

View — Court  House — Susquehanna  River — Sublime  Scenery 
— Governor  Shunk — Political  Excitement — Cumberland  Val- 
ley— Carlisle — Dickinson  College — Streets — Chambersburg — 
Court  House — Manufactures, 450 

CHAPTER    XLIV. 

State  of  Maryland. 

Deep  Cut — Sliding  of  the  banks — Dirt  cars — Hagerslown — Stage 
Coach — Williamsport — Conecocheague  river — Aqueduct— Po- 
tomac river — Arrival  at  Winchester — General  course  of  the 
Route — Aspect  of  the  Route — Review  of  the  Middle  and 
Eastern  States, 461 


—German  pop- 


i- 1 


h-  { 


C  H  A  P  T  E  R    I. 


DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 

Aspect  of  Ujc  District— Site  and  plan  of  the  city  of  Washington 
—West  front  of  the  Capitol — Monument^East  front  of  the 
Capitol — Statue  of  Washington — Statue  of  Columbus — Ilelie- 
▼ps — Hall  of  Representatives-Senate  Chanrber-Central  domo 
—President's  House — War  and  Navy  departments — State  and 
Treasury  departments — Post  Office  department — Patent  Of- 
fice—National Museum — Clothes  and  dishes  of  Gen.  Wash- 
ington— Priniinjg  Press  of  Dr.  Franklin — Navy- Yard —Colum- 
bia College — Congressional  burial-ground — Georgetown'  — 
Catholic  College — National  Observatory.. 

Tins  District,  in  which  is  situated  the  city  oi  Wash- 
ington, the  seat  of  the  Federal  government,  is  a  tract 
often  miles  square,  embracing  within  its  area  the  con- 
fluence ot  the  east  and  west  branches  of  the  noble  Po- 
tomac. It  is  divided  into  two  counties,  Washington 
and  Alexandria,  and  contains  two  cities,  Washington 
and  Georgetown.  The  whole  district  is  under  the  im- 
mediate control  of  Congress,  and  therefore  is  not  rep- 
resented in  that  body.  This  spot  it  is  said,  was  select- 
ed by  General  Washington,  as  a  proper  site  for  the 
Capitol,  as  the  most  central  place  on  the  Atlantic  bor- 


f. 


i  i 


\ 


20 


WAtHINGTON  (  IT\'. 


(ler,  being  midway  between  Maine  and  Florida,  and 
being  also  at  the  head  ol  the  navigation  of  a  great  riv- 
er. He  observed  that  all  the  other  principal  cities 
eastward  of  the  Alleghany  mountains,  had  sprung  up 
on  similar  sites. 

The  city  of  Washington  is  situated  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Potomac,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  from  its 
mouth,  at  the  point  of  junction  of  the  two  branches,  to 
which  the  river  is  navigable  for  ships  of  the  line. — 
The  city  was  laid  out  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  great  man  whose  name  it  bears,  in  1791,  and  be- 
came the  seat  of  government  in  the  year  1800.  The 
plan  of  the  city  combines  regularity  with  variety,  and 
is  adapted  to  the  variations  of  the  surface,  so  that  the 
spaces  allotted  to  public  buildings,  occupy  command- 
ing positions,  and  the  monotonous  sameness  of  a  rec- 
tangular design  is  avoided,  while  all  its  advantages  are 
secured. 

The  plan  of  the  city  is  extensive  as  well  as  beautiful. 
The  minor  streets  run  at  riojht  angles,  but  the  larger 
avenues  diverge  like  rays  from  several  centres,  inter- 
secting the  streets  with  various  degrees  of  obliquity, 
and  opening  spaces  for  extensive  squares.  The  smal- 
ler streets  all  run  in  Ihe  direction  of  the  four  cardinal 
points  of  the  compass,  and  are  from  ninety  to  one  hun- 
dred feet  wide.  The  grand  avenues,  bearing  the  names 
of  the  several  States  of  the  Union,  are  from  130  to  160 
feet  wide,  bordered  with  trees  of  the  choicest  species. 
Many  ol  these  avenues  terminate  on  the  hill  on  which 
is  situated  the  Capitol,  from  which  they  diverge  like 
rays  from  a  centre, 


1 


^*'EST  fflONT  OF  THE  CAPITOL. 


21 


UVa,  and 
real  riv- 
lal  cities 
)rung  up 

,  east  side 
,-8  Irom  its 
■anchesjto 

le  lin^« — 
ndence  of 
1,  and  be- 
800.     The 
ariety,  and 
30  that  the 
command- 
8S  of  a  rec- 
^antages  are 

as  beautiful. 

the   larger 
ntres,  inter- 
of  obliquity, 
The  smal- 
four  cardinal 
^  to  one  hun- 
jig  the  names 
.nTlSOtolGO 
Dicest  species, 
hill  on  which 

diverge  like 


i 


In  approaching  the  Capitol  from  the  city,  you  as- 
cend the  beautiful  emmence  on  which  it  is  situated,  by 
passing  through  the  western  square  or  public  grounds, 
in  which  are  laid  out  many  public  walk?,  the  whole 
adorned  with  the  most  graceful  trees  and  the  choicest 
species  of  shrubbery.  The  principal  walk  is  beauti- 
iully  paved  with  large  blocks  of  grey  granite,  it  being 
about  twenty-five  feet  wide.  On  this  you  approach 
the  building,  till  within  about  fifty  yards,  when  you 
ascend  two  flights  of  stone  steps,  having  together  fifty- 
two  steps,  which  brings  you  to  a  cistern  or  reservoir, 
walled  with  granite,  and  the  brim  or  circumference 
surmounted  by  an  iron  railing  of  great  beauty. 

In  the  centre  of  this  cistern,  stands  a  very  splendid 
monument,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  gallant  naval 
officers,  who  fell  at  Tripoli,  during  the  war  of  1804. 
The  monument  is  adorned  by  many  beautiful  and  ap- 
propriate devices.  On  the  eastern  face  of  this  monu- 
ment, or  that  facing  the  west  door  of  the  Capitol,  con- 
tains the  following  mscription  : 


TO  THE  ME.MOliy  OF 


Souiers^  Cadivell^  Decatur,  Wadesworth,  Dorsey, 

Israel. 


The  love  of  glory  inspired  them,  fame  has  crowned  their 
deeds,  history  records  the  events,  the  children  of  Columbia 
admire,  and  commerce  laments  their  fall. 

Between  this  monument  and  the  Capitol,  is  the  foun- 
tain which  supplies  the  cistern  with  water,  which  is 
of  an  excellent  quality  ;  as  good  as  I  ever  drank.  The 
cistern  contains  many  different  kinds  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful fishes;  those  attracting  the  most  attention  are  of  a 


oo 


SIATLE   or    WAJiMINtitoX. 


t ..  t 


bright  rod,  buing  oCas  beautiful  a  color  as  Turkey  reel. 
From  the  level  of  the  fountain,  a  flight  of  eleven  stone 
ateps  will  bring  you  to  the  floor  of  the  west  portico. 

In  apjiroaching  the  Capitol  from  the  east,  you  pass 
through  capitol  square,  containing  22  acres,  also  taste- 
fully and  handsomely  adorned  with  shade  trees.  This 
front  of  the  structure  is  all  that  is  Imposing,  grand  and 
sublime  in  art.  The  first  thing  to  which  the  attention 
is  drawn,  is  the  statue  of  Washington,  mounted  on  a 
pedestal  of  about  eight  feet  square  and  about  twelve 
feet  high,  on  the  east  face  of  which  is  the  following 
inscription : 

Shnulaprum  htud 

al  Magnum  Lihrrlatis  cxcmplum  Nic  Sine  Ipsa  Duratiuin. 

Iloralifis  (hcnough  Facicbat. 

This  inscription  is  very  beautifully  wrought,  the  letters 

being  large  and  plain,  and  present  a  scene  well  worthy 

of  admiration.     What  the  diflferent  interpretations  are, 

and  how  many  different  constructions  this  inscription 

will  bear,  I  am  unable  to  say.     The  best  English  that 

I  am  able  to  make  of  it  is  the  following : 

This  Statue, 
To  the  great  example,  ami  to  the  duration  of  Liberty. 

I  I  or  alius  made  it. 

On  this  pedestal  is  situated  the  statue  of  Washington, 
representing  him  sitting  in  an  arm-chair,  in  his  left 
hand  a  sword  or  dagger,  with  the  hilt  foremost,  indi- 
cating perhaps,  that  no  soonsr  were  the  enemies  of 
Liberty  conquered,  than  he  was  ready  and  willing  to 
surrender  his  sword  and  commission  to  the  people. — 
His  right  hand  extended  upward,  pointing  with  the  fin- 
<rer  toward  Heaven,  the  true  indication  of  which  I  do 


t] 


S  T  A  r  I!  E  * . 


23 


key  rf(\' 
;en  stone 
ortico. 
you  pass 
Iso  taste- 
es.  This 
a  rand  and 

o 

3  attention 

nted  on  a 

,ut  twelve 

following 

i  Daratiuni. 

:,  the  letters 
veil  worthy 
stations  are, 
inscription 
English  that 

./  Liberty- 

Washington, 
•,  in  his  left 
remost,  indi- 
enemies  of 
id  willing  to 
;he  people. — 
r  with  the  fin- 
jf  which  I  do 


i 


not  profe:Jo  to  understand ;  it  may  however,  with  some 
propriety  be  construed  to  indicate  several  things, — it 
may  indicate  that  LiutTty,  Civilization,  the  Arts  and 
Sciences  will  be  over  upward  and  onward  ;  or  it  may 
indicate  to  this  nation,  to  become  truly  wise  and  great, 
they  should  worship  and  obey  that  Deity  whom  he  a- 
(lored.  The  whole  statui  is  a  large  and  powerful  fig- 
ure, well  sculptured,  of  a  good  quality  of  marble,  ex- 
cept on  the  throat,  directly  under  the  chin,  where  it 
has  the  appearance  of  being  defective.  Whether  this 
was  sculptured  in  imitation  of  the  disease  of  which  he 
died,  or  whether  it  was  a  defect  of  the  marble  I  was 
unable  to  learn.  I  am  however  inclined  to  think  the 
latter  is  the  true  cause. 

On  a  platform  immcdiataly  in  front  of  the  portico, 
on  a  level  with  its  floor,  at  a  height  of  about  eighteen 
feet,  are  placed  two  statues,  one  of  which  represents 
Columbus,  with  his  right  hand  extended,  on  which  is 
placed  a  globe,  which  may  perhaps  indicate,  that  this 
was  the  figure  he  considered  the  earth  to  possess,  at  a 
time  when  all  the  world  was  arrayed  against  him,  hurl- 
ing their  scorn  at  him  for  his  belief. 

At  his  right  hand  and  near  the  globe,  is  the  statue 
of  a  female  Indian,  looking  in  the  face  of  the  stern  old 
Prince  of  the  Ocean.  She  is  standing  in  a  position  as 
if  about  to  retire,  as  much  as  to  say,  "let  us  retire  to 
the  far  west,  that  this  wilderness  may  blossom  as  a 
rose,  and  become  the  home  of  the  free  and  the  land  of 
the  brave."  These  two  statues  ha\%  no  inscriptions  on 
them,  except  the  name  of  the  artist,  L»  Persico. 

On  the  front  or  liable  of  the  portico,  about  forty  feet 


€' 


•I  ■•■ 

ii ; 


i' 


I 

1 


i!i 


:1 


24 


STATUES. 


above  these  statues,  may  be  seen  three  beautiful  re- 
lievos, representing  Washington  in  the  centre,  and  on 
his  right  hand  the  figure  of  a  man  holding  up  his  right 
hand,  in  his  left  an  anchor  ;  on  the  left  ot  Washing- 
ton, a  female  figure,  in  her  right  hand  a  shield,  in  her 
left  the  scale  of  Justice,  holding  it  up  at  arm's  length. 
These  relievos  contain  no  other  inscription  than  the 
name,  L.  Persico. 

By  ascending  a  flight  of  thirty-six  stone  steps,  you 
arrive  in  the  east  portico,  where  your  attention  is  im- 
mediately arrested  by  three  very  beautiful  relievos 
just  above  the  door,  being  situated  in  a  niche.  This 
represents  Washington  between  two  Cherubs,  each 
holding  over  his  head  a  wreath.  This  presents  a  scene 
grand  and  imposing,  and  are  the  handsomest  relievos 
of  the  Capitol,  being  sculptured  by  the  celebrated  A. 
Chapellano. 

On  your  right  hand,  when  facing  the  door,  in  a 
great  curve  or  niche  in  the  wall,  is  placed  the  statue 
of  the  God  of  War,  a  strong  and  powerful  figure  in 
Roman  armor.  On  the  left,  in  a  like  curve  or  niche, 
is  placed  the  Goddess  of  Peace,  holding  in  her  hand 
the  olive-branch  of  peace.  Both  of  these  statues  are 
constructed  of  a  very  superior  quality  of  marble,  and 
wrought  in  a  most  masterly  style.  These  statues  are 
perhaps  to  indicate  to  the  world,  that  the  motto  of  the 
nation  is  peace  and  friendship  with  all  nations — ask 
nothing  but  what  is  right,  and  submit  to  nothing  that 
is  wrong-,  national  rights,  liberty  and  justice  being 
hers,  each  of  wliich  she  will  have  even  at  the  point  of 
the  sword. 


i 


'^At'lTOt. 


2^ 


iful  ro- 
and  on 
lis  right 
rashing- 
1,  in  her 
s  length, 
than  the 

Leps,  you 
ion  is  im- 
l  relievos 
he.     This 
•ubs,  each 
nts  a  scene 
st  relievos 
ibrated  A. 

ioor,   in  a 
the  statue 
figure  in 
or  niche, 
her  hand 
statues  are 
larble,  and 
statues  are 
lotto  of  the 
itions — -ask 
.thing  that 
stice  being 
ihe  point  oi 


i 


4 


iThe  Capitol  is  a  large,  magnificent  structure,  of 
freestone  painted  white,  beir  ^  three  hundred  and  fifty* 
two  feet  long,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty-one  feet 
deep.  It  is  of  the  Corinthian  order  of  architecture, 
being  built  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  with  the  Represen*- 
tatives  Hall  and  the  Senate  Chamber  In  the  two  wings, 
and  a  spacious  rotundo  in  the  centre,  ninety-six  feet 
in  diameter  and  ninety-six  feet  high  to  the  top  of  th6 
dome*  The  sound  of  a  single  voice,  uttered  in  this  a- 
partment,  is  echoed  from  the  top  of  the  dome  above, 
with  a  rumbling  like  distant  thunder.  The  rotundo  is 
constructed  of  white  marble,  and  the  floor  beautifully 
tesselated  with  the  sam<i  material,  giving  an  imposing 
effect. 

The  walls  are  adorned  with  a  scries  of  national  paint* 
ings  by  Trumbull,  among  which  are  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  Baptism  of  Pocahontas,  Landing  of  the 
Pilgrims  on  the  Rock  of  Plymouth,  Landing  of  Colum- 
bus, First  Congress  at  Annapolis,  Surrender  of  Bur* 
goyne  at  Saratoga,  Surrender  of  Cornwallis  at  York- 
town,  Sec.  There  are  also  many  other  paintings  situ- 
ated below  those  abovi?  noticed,  among  which  may  be 
named  a  very  splendid  full  length  portrait  of  General 
Taylor  and  horse,— -also  portraits  of  Worth,  Shields, 
and  many  other  heroes  of  the  Mexican  war.  Above 
the  national  paintings  ate  four  relievos,  placed  at  equal 
distances,  representing  the  landing  at  Plymouth,  the 
treaty  between  Penn  and  the  Indians,  the  preservation 
n*' Smith  by  Pocahontas  and  the  adventure  of  Boone 
with  two  Indians. 

The  HallofRcpreiicnialiveiiis  in  the  muUi  wing  of  Ih^ 


26 


HALL    or   ilEl'JlfiSlINTATiVES^ 


•tracture*  Its  form  is  semicircular,  being  ninely-fiva 
feet  in  length  and  sixty  feet  in  height,  lighted  from  the 
top  by  a  dome.  The  gallery  is  also  of  a  semicircuTar 
iorm  and  supported  by  thirty  columns.  Across  the  di- 
ameter of  this  semicircle,  in  rear  of  the  Speaker's  chair, 
are  eiorht  columns:  immediately  in  tbeir  front,  on  the 
Speaker's  right  and  left  are  six  smaller  ones,  all  of 
which  are  highly  polished.  The  hall  has  quite  a  grand 
and  imposing  effect,  being  adorned  with  many  statues, 
relievos  and  other  appropriate  and  highly  finished  de- 
vices. Here  I  heard  a  spirited  discussion  between  Mr- 
Ramsey  of  New  York,  and  Mr.  Roman  of  Maryland, 
on  a  question  involving  slaves  as  property.  The  hall 
contains  seats  for  two  hundred  and  thirty-four  members, 
which  were  generally  occupied ;  and  much  decorum 
prevailed  for  such  a  large  legislative  body.  The  de- 
corum presented  by  this  large  assembly  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at,  when  guided  by  such  a  towering  mind 
as  that  of  Mr.  Winthrop,  their  Speaker  •  who  appears 
to  be  not  only  an  ornament  to  the  body  over  which  he 
presides,  but  to  the  whale  of  the  American  people. 

The  Senate  Chamber  is  the  same  shape  of  the  Hall 
bf  Representatives,  being  a  little  smaller.  It  is  seven- 
ty-five feet  long.  The  gallery  of  this  is  supported  by 
thirty  columns.  In  rear  of  the  President's  chair  is  sit- 
uated the  reporters  gallery,  which  is  supported  by  foKir 
square  and  eight  round  columns,  the  square  ones  beincr 
immediately  in  rear  of  the  President's  chair.  Among 
the  many  splendid  and  appropriate  devices  which  a- 
dorn  this  Chamber,  may  be  named  that  rich  and  gaudy 
curtain  which  overshadows  the  President's  chair,  crown- 


i 


I 


4 


SENATE    ClUMnKR. 


iiely-fivflf 
from  the 
licircutaf 
3SS  the  di- 
jr'f  chair, 
t,  on  the 
e«>  all  of 
f  e  a  grand 
ly  statues, 
nished  dc- 
tween  Mr- 
Maryland, 
The  hall 
r  members, 
h  decorum 
The  de- 
not  to  be 
ering  mind 
rho  appears 
T  which  he 
people. 
,f  the  Hall 
It  is  seven- 
pported  by 
chair  is  sit- 
>rted  by  f<*ur 
ones  being 
ir.     Among 
IS  which  a- 
h  and  gaudy 
hair,  crown- 


ed with  the  American  Eagle  with  expanded  wing«, 
looking  down  and  watching  all  their  deliberations. 

The  Chamber  contains  seats  for  filty-fix  members, 
and  in  their  deliberations  the  greatest  decorum  prevails. 
This  however,  could  not  be  otherwis^e  was  there  a  dis- 
position on  the  part  of  any  member  to  do  so,  he  could 
not  transcend  the  limits  of  decorum  in  the  presence  of 
that  dignified  and  venerable  old  gentleman,  Mr,  Dal- 
las, who  presides  over  their  body — whose  white  head, 
handsome  person,  keen  and  intelligent  eye,  added  to 
his  deportment,  will  inspire  the  admiration  of  all. 

In  this  Chamber  I  heard  a  discussion  three  successive 
days,  on  the  Yucatan  bill.  Mr.  Cass  of  Michigan,  and 
Mr.  Foote  of  Mississippi,  for  the  bill,  and  Mr.  Miller  of 
New  Jersey,  and  Mr.  Calhoun  of  South  Carolina  a- 
gainst  it.  The  day  on  which  Mr.  Calhoun  spoke  the 
galleries  were  crowded  to  overflowing  ;  many  persons 
being  excluded  for  the  want  of  room,  from  hearing  an 
oration  clothed  with  the  animating  fire  of  a  Homer, 
and  the  thrilling  eloquence  of  a  Demosthenes.  It  was 
with  no  little  delight  I  listened  with  others,  in  the  still- 
ness of  the  Chamber,  to  the  thrilling  words  as  they 
dropped  from  the  lips  of  this  great  Cicero  of  the  A- 
merican  Senate. 

In  the  west  adjoining  the  rotundo,  is  the  Library  of 
Congress,  containing  sixteen  thousand  volumes,  placed 
in  a  hall  ninety-t  .vo  feet  high.  I  now  ascended  to  the 
top  of  the  central  dome,  which  is  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  from  the  ground.  From  this  place  a  beau- 
tiful prospect  is  presented  t©  view  :    embracing   th« 

Potomac  1 


mg 


many 


all 


t 


!  i 


^ 


28 


president's  iiousi: 


the  pleasing  diversity  o-f  landscape  scenery  upon  1(3 
banks,  including  large  portions  ofthe  cities  oi  Alexan- 
dria and  Georgetown. 

At  a  distance  of  one  and  a  hall  miles  west  of  the 
Capitol,  on  Pennsylvania  avenue,  is  situated  the  Pres- 
ident's House, — which  is  also  built  of  freestone  paint- 
ed white,  two  stories  high,  with  a  basement,  and  has  a 
front  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet,  adorned  with  two 
Ionic  porticos.     It  is  magnificently  iurnished  and  sur- 
rounded with  beautiful  and  extensive  grounds.     These 
grounds  are  ornamented  with  the  choicest  species  of 
shrubbery  and  the  most  graceful  trees  our  country  af- 
iords.     Within  the  circumference  of  these  grounds  are 
situated  four  ofthe  offices  of  the  executive  department. 
On  the  west  are  the  War  and  Navy, — in  the  first  of 
which  can  be  seen  the  trophies  taken  during  the  wars. 
The  most  singular  however,  are  those  taken  during  tl^e 
Tripolitan  and  Mexicaiji  wars :  among  which  are  some 
brass  cannon  and  other  weapons  of  war,  and  a  number 
of  banners,  some  of  w^hich  are  singular  enough^  while 
others  are  made  of  fine  and  excellent  material.     A  few 
paces  in  ffont  ofthe  door  of  this  department  may  be 
seen  a  rocljL  of  copper  ore  weighing  from  iour  to  five 
tons.     On  the  east  of  the  President's  flouse^  are  th,e 
State  and  Treasury  departments,     The  Igitter  is  a  mas- 
sive structure  of  granite,  three  hundred  and  forty-four 
feet  long,  three  stories  high,  together  with  a  lofty  base- 
ment.    The  front  of  the  structure  has  a  powerful  por- 
tico, supported  by  thirty-one  fluted  columns  about  thir- 
ty feet  high.     The  same  front  contains  ninety-sthye© 
"Svindows,  besides  ttiirty^one  arched  windows  in  the 


OFFICES  OF  Tilt:  EXECUTIVE  DErAKTMCNTS 


20 


pen 


lis 


t  of  the 
tie  Pres- 
e  paint- 
md  has  a 
w'ithtwo 
and  sur- 
.     These 
pecies  of 
untry  af- 
ounds  are 
partment. 
le  first  of 
the  wars, 
uring  the 
are  some 
a  number 
;hj  >yhile 
ll.     A  few 
,t  may  be 
lur  to  five 
^  are  th,e 
is  a  mas- 
forty-ionr 
jlofty  base- 
'erful  por- 
labout  thir- 
lety-sthye^ 
iws  in  the 


'% 


basement  front.  The  portico  is  gained  by  a  flight  of 
Ihirty-tvvo  stone  steps.  The  floors  of  the  whole  struo- 
iure  are  a  tesselated  pas^ement,  each  one  containing 
thirty-six  rooms,  with  a  beautiful  arched  passage  the 
whole  length  of  the  building.  The  structure  contains 
no  less  than  six  pair  of  circular  stairs. 

The  Post  Office  department  is  situated  about  half 
way  between  the  President's  House  and  the  Capitol,  in 
an  edifice  recently  biiilt  of  white  marble,  which  may 
be  said  to  be  the  most  beautiful  structure  in  the  city* 
It  contains  forty-two  antas  on  the  iront.  The  building 
is  about  two  hundred  feet  long,  two  stories  high,  with 
a  lofty  basement  which  contains  eighteen  semicircular 
windows.  The  portico  is  gained  by  a  flight  of  thirty- 
three  stone  steps,  some  of  the  lower  ones  of  which  are 
about  thirty  feet  in  lengthy  The  floors  are  a  beautiful 
Mosaic,  on  which  stand  a  number  of  splendid  fluted 
columns  to  bear  up  the  structure. 

The  Patent  Office  is  situated  a  short  distance  to  tne 
north  of  the  Post  Office.  It  is  a  beautiful  edifice  of 
freestone,  wherein  are  deposited  a  rare  and  highly  in- 
teresting collection  of  models.  The  upper  part  of  this 
massive  structure  is  occupied  by  the  National  Museum 
—where  are  deposited  rare  and  highly  interesting  col- 
lections of  Natural  History  and  other  treasures,  col- 
lected during  the  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  Antarctic 
regions,  the  South  Seas  and  California.  Among  this 
valuable  repository  may  be  seen  the  hair,  clothes,  reg- 
imentals, chest  and  dishes  of  General  Washington  ;  the 
printing-press  and  cane  of  Dr.  Franklin  ;  ike  nriilitJjry 
dress  worn  by  the  heroic  Jackson  at  the  battle  of  New 


'!t  T 


,( 


^0 


I'ATK.NT  (jVVU'K  —  XAVY  YARD. 


Orleans,  &c.  This  great  national  repository  would 
be  invaluable  at  Philadelphia,  New  York  or  Boston  ; 
but  here  there  is  no  University,  no  classes  of  students 
in  science  or  literature,  no  philosophical  societies,  no 
people  who  seem  to  have  leisure  enough  to  render  the 
collection  as  valuable  as  it  would  be  if  situated  in  some 
larger  metropolis.  The  members  of  Congress  rarely 
have  their  town  residences  in  this  place  ;  but  leave 
their  families  at  home  or  in  large  cities,  where  they 
may  enjoy  perhaps  more  refined  society  ;  and  they 
live  here  in  boarding  houses  until  their  political  duties 
and  the  session  is  over. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  city,  upon  the  Anacostia 
or  east  branch  of  the  Potomac,  is  the  Navy  Yard,  situ- 
ated at  a  distance  of  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  the 
Capitol.  It  contains  twenty-seven  acres  of  ground — - 
where  may  be  seen  massive  designs  in  naval  architec- 
ture, in  viewing  which  an  hour  or  two  may  be  spent 
with  considerable  interest,  where  the  sound  of  the 
hammer,  saw  and  axe  are  mingled  with  the  song  of 
the  jolly  workmen. 

The  Columbian  College,  delightfully  situated  about 
two  miles  from  the  Capitol,  was  incorporated  in  1821. 
The  structure  occupied  by  this  institution  is  handsome 
and  appropriate.  The  next  object  of  interest  out  of 
the  city,  is  the  Congressional  Burial-ground,  about  two 
miles  from  the  Capitol,  containing  ten  acres  of  ground, 
handsomely  enclosed  with  a  strong  fence  co^^dructed 
of  brick.  The  ground  contains  a  number  of  very  beau- 
tiful tombs  and  monuments  of  various  styles  and  height, 
some  of  which  co'^sist  of  very  splendid  obeJisk  shafts 


UEORCJETOWN. 


31 


would 
oslon  ', 
udents 
ies,  no 
der  the 
in  some 
J  rarely 
it  leave 
jre  they 
.nd  they 
•al  duties 

Vnacostia 

|ard,  situ- 

from  the 
rround— - 
architec- 
be  spent 
id  ol  the 
e  song  ot 

lited  about 

ial821. 

[handsome 

lest  out  of 
]  about  two 

lof  ij;round> 
n?U"ucted 
[very  beau- 
ind  height, 
Lisk  abaft* 


o<  considerable  height,  all  wrought  with  a  workman- 
ship which  cannot  fail  in  attracting  the  admiration  of 
the  beholder. 

Notwithstanding  the  extent  of  the  city,  its  popula- 
tion is  small,  being  only  23,364  inhabitants.  It  ap- 
pears more  like  a  group  of  villages  than  a  continuous 
city,  as  the  buildings  are  principally  situated  in  three 
different  clusters,  viz  :  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Cap- 
itol, the  Navy- Yard  and  Pennsylvania  avenue.  The 
Potomac,  which  separates  it  Irom  Alexandria,  is  cros- 
sed by  a  bridge  more  than  a  mile  in  length.  On  the 
west  the  city  is  separated  from  Georgetown  by  a  flour- 
ishing stream  called  Rock  Creek. 

Georgetown  has  a  population  of  7,312,  is  situated 
three  miles  west  of  the  Capitol,  on  a  commanding  em- 
inence, possessing  a  delightful  prospect  of  the  river, 
the  neighboring  city  and  the  diversified  country  in  its 
vicinity.     The  houses  are  mostly  of  brick,  and  the  city 
is  a  very  thriving  place,  having  considerable  commerce; 
but  the  navigation  is  in  a  degree  obstructed  by  a  bar 
just  below  the  town.     There  is  here  a  cannon  foundry, 
four  banks,  seven  churches  and  a  Catholic  College,  said 
to  be  a  very  respectable  institution.     On  my  return  to 
Washington,  I   visited   the  National    Observatory,    a 
high  tower  on  high  and  commanding  ground,  affording 
a  charming  view  of  Washinojton  and  the  surroundino- 
cities,  embracing  a  view  ol  the  various  scenery  bor-* 
dering  on  the  winding  Potomac  for  many  miles, 


;?'• 


32 


MARYLAND. 


CHAPTER    II. 


STATE    OF    MARYLAND. 


Aspect  of  the  State — Towns — Annapolis — Old  State  House — 
Baltimoro — Washington  Monument — Battle  Monument — Ex- 
change— City  Hall — State  Penitentiary — University — Cathe- 
dral— Hospital — Washington  Medical  College — Commerce — 
Manufactures— Fort  McHenry— Chesapeake  Bay-North  Point. 

In  travelling  from  the  city  of  Washington  to  French- 
town,  by  the  way  of  Baltimore,  I  found  the  maratime 
part  of  the  S  tate  to  be  penetrated  far  into  the  interior 
by  the  Chese^^pake  Bay,  which  like  a  vast  river  divides 
it  into  two  disti  net  portions,  called  the  eastern  and 
western  shores.  These  shores  are  found  to  include  a 
low,  level  and  alluval  country,  intersected  by  tide  wa- 
ter rivers  and  creeks.  The  eastern  part  of  the  State 
being  almost  cut  off  by  the  Chesepeake  bay,  forms  with 
the  little  State  of  Delaware,  a  peninsula.  The  west- 
ern shores  of  the  Chesepeake,  north  and  south  of  the 
city  of  Baltimore,  contain  some  very  beautiful  lands, 
at  once  fertile  and  admirably  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
the  various  kinds  of  grains  and  grasses.  Above  the 
tide-waters  the  land  again  becomes  agreeably  undula- 
ting. Still  farther  west  commence  the  Alleghany 
Mountains,  with  their  numerous  ridges.  The  vallies 
between  them  are  said  to  be  loamy  and  rich  and  yield 
fine  wheat  and  all  the  products  of  the  Middle  States, 
(^n  my  return  route  I  found  broad  belts  of  this  admi- 
rable soil  in  Washington  county. 

Qn  the  Washington  and  Annapolis  Railroad,  about 


ANNA  POM:*. 


33 


L— Ex- 
Catbe- 
lerce— 
1  Point. 

rench- 

nterior 
divides 
rn  and 
;lude  a 
ide  \va- 
e  State 

,s  with 
|e  west- 

of  the 

il  lands, 

[owth  of 

lOve  the 

undula- 

leghany 
vallies 

|nd  yield 
States, 

is  admi- 

idj  about 


SIX  miles  from  Washington,  is  the  town  of  Bladrnsbiirg, 
quite  a  thriving  town  on  a  fine  site,  though  situated  in 
a  poor  region  of  countr}'.  The  country  as  far  as  can 
be  seen  from  the  road,  contains  much  land  of  an  infe- 
rior quality,  being  wooded  with  scrubby  pines,  chest- 
nut and  shrubs,  the  soil  having  a  pale,  cold  appearance, 
presenting-  few  attractions  in  agriculture,  and,  to  all 
appearance  yielding  a  small  reward  ior  the  labor  be- 
stowed. Continuing  our  course  north-east,  on  arriving 
in  Anne  Arundel  county,  the  land  was  found  rapidly 
to  improve  in  quality. 

Annapolis,  with  a  population  of  2,792  agreeably  sit- 
uated on  the  west  side  of  the  Severn  river,  two  miles 
from  the  Chesepeake  Bay,  is  the  capitol  of  the  Stale. 
The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  the  streets  diver- 
ging from  the  State  House  and  the  Episcopal  Church. 
The  State  House  is  the  most  beautiful  and  capacious 
edifice  in  the  city.  In  this  venerable  old  building  the 
old  Conorress  held  some  of  their  sessions  durinor  the 
Revolution ;  and  the  Senate  Chamber  in  which  On, 
Washini^ton  resio^ned  his  commission  as  commander-in- 
chief  of  the  American  army,  has  been  preserved  unal- 
tered to  this  day.  Here  is  also  the  State  Library  of 
10,000  volumes.  The  city  contains  St.  John's  Col- 
lege, which  is  a  branch  of  the  University  of  Maryland. 
The  city  is  well  situated  to  command  a  large  portion 
of  the  commerce  of  the  Chesepeake  Bay. 

Baltimore,  with  a  population  of  102,313,*  situated 
in  a  county  of  the  same  name,  in  the  year  1752  con- 
tained 25  houses.     It  received  a  city  charter  in  1797, 

H/cnsiib  of  1840,iriven  in  all  rases. 


'M 


i;ALri:.ioiu:. 


if 


;i:id  ij  now  rankLil  as  the  third  citv  in  the  United  State* 
ior  population,  comnierco  and  wraith,  being  admirably 
situated  as  an  inland  city  on  the  Patapsro  river,  l^ 
miles  from  Chesepeake  Bay.  The  harbour  is  capacious 
and  sate,  and  consists  of  an  inner  basin  into  which  ves- 
sels of  200  tons  can  enter,  and  an  outer  harbour  at 
I'ell's  Point,  accessible  to  the  largest  merchant  ships. 
The  entrance  i-s  commanded  by  Fort  M'Henry. 

Objects  of  attraction.  Amongj  the  first  things  to 
attract  the  attention  of  the  stranger,  is  Washington 
Monument,  at  the  intersection  of  Charles  and  Monu- 
ment streets,  it  being  a  most  splendid  structure  >  It 
consists  of  a  Doric  column  ol  white  marble,  with  a  cir- 
cular staircase  inside,  by  which  you  ascend  to  the  top 
of  the  column.  It  is  supported  by  a  pedestal,  fifty  feet 
square  and  twenty-five  feet  high.  The  column  is  20 
feet  in  diameter  at  the  bottom,  180  ieei  high,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  colossal  statue  of  the  Father  of  his  coun- 
try. 

The  Battle  Monument,  corner  of  Calvert  and  Lafay- 
ette streets,  built  of  white  marble,  52  foet  in  height, 
was  erected  m  commemoration  of  the  successful  de- 
fence of  the  city  ao;ainst  the  British  in  1814,  and  as  a 
lasting  monument  to  those  whose  lives  were  offered  up 
to  secure  so  glorious  a  result. 

The  Court-Housp,  corner  of  Monument  square  and 
Lexington  street,  is  built  of  marble  and  brick  and  is 
145  feet  long  and  G5  feet  wide.  The  Merchant's  Ex- 
change is  a  large  and  handsome  structure,  366  feet 
long  by  40  feet  wide,  with  &  hall  86  by  53  feet,  light- 
ed from  the  top  through  the  dome,  which  is  a  delight- 


■» 


tlAt,TlM«-knK. 


.1.1 


atci 
ably 
,  U 
cious 
I  ves- 
ur  at 
ships. 

ngsto 

ington 

Monu- 

•€,     It 

1  a  cir- 

ihe  top 

fty  feet 
is  20 
nd  sur- 
s  coun- 

Lafay- 
height, 
sful  de- 
tnd  as  a 
fered  up 

lare  and 
and  is 
Int's  Ex- 

}66  feet 
it,  light- 
I  delight- 


i*ul  and  imposing  hall.     The  City   Hall,  on  Ilulliday 
street,  is  three  stofles  high  and  has  a  portico  with  tou 
massive  columns. 

The  State  Penitentiary  occupies  four  acres  of  ground, 
and  consists  of  three  large  buihlings,  surrounded  by  a 
wall  20  [^{'t  in  height.  The  University  of  Maryland, 
St.  Mary's  College,  the  Maryland  Institute  and  the  A* 
cademy  of  Science  and  Literature  are  celebrated  and 
flourishing  institutions.  The  Cathedral  is  a  beautiful 
edifice,  190  feet  in  length  and  127  feet  high  to  the  top 
ot  the  dome.  It  is  of  the  Ionic  order  of  architecture, 
and  contains  a  very  large  fme-toned  organ.  There  arc 
also  107  large  and  elegant  church  edifices. 

The  Hospital,  a  large  and  splendid  structure,  erect- 
ed at  a  cost  of  $150,000,  and  the  Alms  House  are  each 
well  conducted  benevolent  institutions.  The  city  is 
supplied  with  water  from  Jone's  Falls,  whence  it  is 
conveyed  to  a  reservoir  on  Calvert  street,  by  an  aque- 
duct half  a  mile  in  length.  Numerous  springs  in  the 
city  also,  contribute  to  supply  the  inhabitants,  which 
water  is  generally  good  ;  and  even  that  from  the  falls 
is  as  good  as  that  usually  found  in  large  cities. 

Washington  Medical  College,  situated  on  the  south- 
east corner  ot  Market  and  Hampstead  hill  streets,  on 
the  most  elevated  ground  within  the  limits  of  Balti- 
more, and  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Pa- 
tapsco  river,  the  city  and  the  surrounding  country. — 
The  buildings  are  constructed  in  a  style  of  architecture 
which  will  vie  with  the  proudest  collegiate  of  our  land 
and  is  perhaps  the  most  splendid  structure  in  the  city. 
The  buildings  of  this  College  will  range  on  Hampstead 


3(5 


\iAHisuniK, 


hill  street  195  foot,  and  consist  in  part  of  a  circular 
centre  building  about  40  feet  in  diameter,  having  four 
stories  at  unequal  hei;j;ht,  for  the  convenience  of  Lec- 
ture halls,  Library,  Museum,  Dissecting  rooms,  kc. — 
This  part  of  the  edifice  is  (lanked  at  four  corresponding 
equi-distant  points,  by  turrets  one  story  higher,  making 
this  part  of  the  structure  six  stories  from  the  ground. 
These  turrets  are  castellated  with  obeleisk  roofs,  and 
decorated  with  beautiful  Cothic  windows  and  doors. 

The  wings  are  five  stories  in  height,  and  each  GO  feet 
long  by  40  wide.  They  contain  numerous  apartments 
which  are  spacious  and  lofty,  affording  ample  room  for 
the  classification  of  the  patients,  and  will  contain  be- 
tween three  and  four  hundred  beds.  The  apartments 
appropriated  to  house  students,  will  contain  and  com- 
fortably accommodate  about  fifty  individuals  ;  and  are 
most  agreeable  and  inviting  to  young  gentlemen  who 
may  prefer  to  reside  in  the  College  edifice.  In  other 
portions  of  the  building  are  apartments  especially  de- 
signed for  strangers  who  may  be  taken  sick  in  the  city, 
and  who  prefer  being  retired  from  the  noise  and  con- 
fusion of  a  hotel,  and  wish  a  place  where  good  nurses, 
medical  attendance  and  every  convenience  contribu- 
ting to  their  comfort,  will  be  provided.  This  peculiar 
feature  has  rendered  this  institution  very  popular  with 
strangers  who  have  tak^n  apartments  here,  and  who 
had  the  attendance  of  any  physician  they  preferred. 
No  person  with  an  infectious  disease  is  admitted  at  all, 
and  the  College  presents  every  feature  of  one  of  the 
most  admirably  conducted  institutions  in  our  country. 

The  citizens  of  Baltimore  are  not  more  distinguish- 


izel 

up 
aft 

atel 


nALTlMORC. 


87 


cular 
;  four 
'  Lec- 

AC. — 
nding 
aking 
round. 
i,  and 
10  rs. 
iOleet 
tments 
)om  for 
lin  be- 
•tments 
d  com- 
ind  are 
en  who 
[1  other 
illy  de- 
he  city, 
id   con- 
nurses, 
ontribu- 
peculiar 
lar  with 
md  who 
referred, 
edat  all, 
e  of  the 
country, 
tinguish- 


rd  for  their  hospitality  and  agreeable  manners,  than  for 
bold  and.  persevering  enterprise  ;  as  they  have  the  mer- 
it of  lirst  projecting  and  commencing  the  two  greatest 
works  of  internal  improvement  in  the  United  States, 
viz:  the  Ch^*sepeake  and  Ohio  Canal  and  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  V  ailroad.  They  also  have  three  Railroads 
branching  out  from  the  city  :  one  to  Washington,  one 
to  Philadelphia  and  one  to  York  in  Pennsylvania. — 
JJaltimore  posseses  nearly  the  whole  trade  of  Maryland, 
and  is  so  situated  c?  to  command  a  portion  of  the  trade 
of  Western  Virginia,  P^'nnsylvania  and  some  of  the 
Western  States.  Its  inland  communication  has  been 
extended  and  facilitated  by  the  construction  of  the 
Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad. 

The  city  and  neighborhood  carries  on  manufacturing 
to  a  considerable  extent  in  cotton  and  Woollen  goods, 
paper,  powder,  chemicals,  pottery,  &c.  Baltimore  al- 
so has  the  merit  of  beins  one  of  the  laro;est  flour  mar- 
kets  in  the  world,  inspecting  annually  between  eight 
and  nine  hundred  thousand  barrelsof  flour,  besides  thir- 
ty or  forty  thousand  half  barrels.  The  foreign  trade  is 
also  considerable,  employing  a  capital  of  about  $5,000* 
000.  The  city  has  nine  banks  and  nine  insurance 
companies ;  and  in  addition  t )  the  public  buildings  al- 
ready sketched,  may  be  named  two  large  and  elegant 
theatres,  one  circus  and  a  museum. 

From  Bowly's  wharf  a  steamef  belonging  to  the  cit- 
izens Union  line,  carried  us  to  Frenchtown,  by  sailing 
up  the  Chesepeake  bay  a  distance  of  60  miles.  Soon 
after  leaving  the  wharf  we  passed  Fort  M'Henry,  situ- 
ated on  the  left  bank  of  the  Patapsco  river,  about  three 


3S 


STATE  OJ*  DfeLAWAnf:« 


miles  below  the  city.  This  fort  is  admirably  situated 
for  defending  the  harbour  of  the  city.  Alter  entering 
Chesepeake  bay,  our  steamer  soon  brought  us  in  sight 
of  North  Point,  celebrated  for  the  death  of  Gen.  Ross, 
and  the  repulse  of  the  British  army  in  their  attempt  to 
get  possession  of  Baltimore,  after  their  infamous  con- 
duct at  the  city  of  Washington,  which  added  an  indel- 
ible page  to  the  history  of  their  crime. 


CHAPTER    III. 


STATE  OF  DELAWARE. 


Aspect  of  the  State — Swamps — Fruit  Trees — Chesepeako  and 
Delaware  Canal — New  Castle — Wilmington — Manufactures 
— A  rsenal — H  ospital . 

The  general  aspect  of  this  little  State  is  that  of  an 
extended  plain,  chiefly  favorable  for  cultivation.  Near 
the  centre  of  the  State  the  country  is  elevated  in  a  small 
degree,  so  as  to  form  a  kind  of  table  land.  This  forms 
a  dividing  ridge  about  half  way  between  the  Chese- 
peake and  Delaware  bays.  This  belt  or  ridge  is  a  chain 
of  swamps,  from  which  the  waters  descend  in  one  di- 
rection to  the  Chesepeake  and  in  the  other  to  the  Del- 
aware bay.  These  swamps  are  generally  covered  with 
coarse  grass,  equatic  trees  and  shrubs,  and  of  course 
present  a  wild  and  cold  appearance,  and  but  few  if  any 
poiUtj  of  picturesque  beauty.  These  swamps,  as  all 
others,  are  of  course  filled  with  frogs  and  crickets,  who 
by  their  ceaseless  din  fill  the  plain  with  animation  du- 


i 


ring 

bog] 

drai 

whi 

a  fe 

thro 

this 

ing 

to  tl 

qual 

allt 

G 
the 
and 
thir 
The 
loan 
drn 
tecti 
ed  a 
almi 
thei 
are 
the 
two 
ted 
cro] 
nua 
whi 

\ 
^is€ 


ably  situated 
Iter  entering 
t  us  in  sight 
if  Gen.  Ross, 
•ir  attempt  to 
ifamous  con- 
ded  an  indel- 


STATE  OF  DELAWARE. 


39 


lesepeako  and 
r  Manufactures 


that  of  an 
i^ation.  Near 
ed  in  a  small 

This  forms 
the  Chcse- 
ge  is  a  chain 
1  in  one  di- 
*  to  the  Del- 
overed  with 
1  of  course 
it  few  if  any 
imps,  as  all 
'ickets,  who 
imation  du- 


ring the  summer  months.  Many  of  these  swamps  are 
beginning  to  loose  the  charms  of  their  wildness  by 
draining  and  the  hiojh  state  of  cultivation  in  the  lands 
which  surround  them  ;  and  no  doubt,  in  the  course  of  , 
a  few  years  more,  they  will  almost  entirely  disappear 
through  the  agency  of  man.  The  northern  portion  of 
this  little  State  is  generally  a  fine  tract  of  country,  be 
ing  highly  and  skilfully  cultivated,  and  well  adapted 
to  the  growth  of  wheat  and  other  grains  of  a  superior 
quality.     In  a  word,  this  portion  of  the  State  presents 

2  all  that  is  delightful  in  agriculture. 

^  Great  attention  is  also  paid  to  fruit  trees,  especially 
the  Peach  tree,  which  is  here  found  in  the  most  hardy 
and  luxuriant  condition  ;  frequently  living  twenty  and 
thirty  years  and  bearing  annually  in  great  abundance. 
The  soil  of  the  State  is  a  kind  of  light,  warm,  sandy 
loam.  The  orchards  are  situated  on  as  much  of  a  South- 
ern exposure  as  possible,  which  to  some  extent  pro- 
tects them  from  severe  bleak  winds.  They  are  plant- 
ed about  twenty  feet  apart.  The  ground  is  cultivated 
almost  every  year,  which  is  said  to  be  necessary  for 
their  growth  and  bearing.  None  but  the  choicest  kinds 
are  cultivated,  and  these  are  generally  inoculated  into 
the  seedling  when  a  vf^ar  old,  and  transplanted  when 
two  years  old,  The  soil  and  climate  are  so  well  adap- 
ted to  the  cultivation  of  the  peach,  that  it  is  said  the 
crop  of  a  single  proprietor  often  amounts  to  $5,000  an- 
nually ;  and  in  some  instances  far  exceeds  that  sum, 
which  is  generally  realised  in  the  city  markets. 

When  the  yellows,  which  is  one  of  the  most  fatal 

>^  diseases  of  th^  peach-tree,  is  discovered,  the  tree  is  ioa- 


40 


STATE  OF  DELAWARE. 


"!;>•; 


mediately  removed  from  the  orchard,  which  is  said  to 
be  the  only  means  of  checking  the  disease.  The  grub  or 
peach  worm,  which  punctures  the  bark  of  the  tree  and 
lays  its  egg  beneath  it,  at  the  surface  of  the  earth,  is 
prevented  by  forming  a  bank  or  cone  of  earth  or  leach- 
ed ashes,  about  a  foot  high,  around  the  trunk  ol  the 
tree,  which  is  done  about  the  first  of  June  and  remo- 
ved in  October  ;  which  is  said  to  afterwards  harden  the 
bark  below  the  reach  of  the  fly  the  following  year. 

The  manufactures  of  Delaware  are  more  extensive 
than  its  commerce.  Home-made  or  family  goods  are 
produced  to  some  extent.  Two  woollen  and  eleven  or 
^twelve  cotton  factories  produce  a  vast  amount  of  arti- 
cles. Small  as  is  the  State  of  Delaware,  it  has  about 
$1,600,000  invested  in  manufactures,  the  principal 
ones  being  propelled  by  the  waters  of  the  Brandy  wine 
river.  The  Chesepeake  and  Delaware  canal  is  an  im- 
portant public  work.  It  commences  at  Delaware  city 
on  Delaware  river,  and  extends  14  miles  to  Back  creek, 
a  tributary  of  Elk  River.  It  is  sixty-six  feet  wide  at 
the  top  and  ten  feet  deep,  having  four  locks  nearly  200 
feet  long  by  25  feet  wide.  It  unites  Chesepeake  bay 
with  the  Delaware  river,  being  navigable  for  sloops 
and  steamboats  the  whole  year  except  when  frozen. — 
This  great  canal,  though  only  fourteen  miles  in  length, 
cost  the  sum  of  ^2,750,000.  This  canal  is  fed  by  the 
w^aters  of  the  Delaware,  which  presents  an  appearance 
as  transparent  and  beautiful  as  spring-water,  which  is 
increased  in  beauty  when  viewed  at  one  of  the  tide-locks, 
which  .when  filled  with  these  delightful  transparent 
waters  rising  to  a  great  height,  and  bearing  up  a  sloop 


or 


s 


^ 


STATE  OF  DELAWARE. 


41 


ich  is  said  to 
The  grub  or 
fthe  tree  and 
the  earth,  ig 
irth  or  leach- 
trunk  of  the 
e  and  remo- 
ds  harden  the 
ing  year, 
re  extensive 
ly  goods  are 
md  eleven  or 
ount  of  arti- 
it  has  about 
^e  principal 
Brandy  wine 
lal  is  an  im- 
elaware  city 
>  Back  creek, 
eet  wide  at 
s  nearly  200 
sepeake  bay 
e  for  sloops 
?n  frozen. — 
es  in  length, 
5  fed  by  the 
1  appearance 
r,  which  is 
le  tide-locks, 
transparent 
I  up  a  sloop 


or  steamboat,  presents  a  scene  worthy  of  admiration. 

The  town  of  New  Castle  contains  a  population  of 
1200,  is  delightfully  situated  on  a  handsome  site  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Delaware  river,  17  miles  from  French- 
town,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  Railtoad.  This 
little  town  has  many  advantages  of  becoming  a  place 
of  some  note,  being  36  miles  do\^n  the  river  from  Phil- 
adelphia, and  having  on  its  west  the  beautiful  and  fer- 
tile valley  of  Christiana  river.  In  sailing  from  tliis 
place  up  the  Delaware,  the  fertile  and  beaiitiful  lands 
bordering  on  the  river,  presented  themselves  in  all  the 
charms  and  loveliness  of  the  month  of  May,  while  the 
rays  of  the  noonday  sun,  falling  on  the  silvery  bosom 
■M  of  the  noble  DelaWafe,  added  grandeur  to  the  scene. 
The  city  of  Wilmmgton,  with  a  population  of  8367, 

.  is  pleasantly  situated  near  the  junction  of  the  Brandy- 
wine  and  Christiana  rivers.     It  is  a  well  built,  grow- 

.  ing  city,  the  most  important  in  the  State,  the  Brandy- 
wine  being  navigable  to  this  place  for  the  largest  ships; 
The  river  above  the  towri  has  a  fall  which  affords  a 
fine  water  power,  which  js  occupied  in  propelling  va- 
rious machinery,  among  which  are  four  flour  mills,  said 
to  be  among  the  largest  in  the  United  States ;  alsd,  pa- 
per mills,  powder  mills,  cotton  mills,  woollen  mills,  i- 
ron  factories,  &c.  The  city  is  well  located  for  trade, 
in  which  it  is  largely  engaged  for  a  place  of  its  size. 
It  is  also  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  in  the  whale  depart- 
ment of  which  it  has  several  ships.     The  city  contains 

'  an  arsenal,  a  hospital  and  16  churches.     Water- works 

i   on  the  Brandywine,  supply  every  part  of  the  place 

I  with  water  for  domestic  uses. 


42 


STATE    OF    NEW    JERSEV. 


CH  A  PTER   IV. 


d 


STATE    or    NEW    JERSEY. 

Aspect  of  the  State — Red  Bank — Mud  Island — Camden — Bur- 
lington— Bordent(  'vn — Late  residence  of  Joseph  Banaparte — 
Plains  of  Monmouth — South  Amboy — Strait  of  Amboy, 

In  sailing  up  the  Delaware  from  New  Castle  to  Cam- 
den, opposite  Philadelphia,  and  then  travelling  north- 
east to  Perth  Amboy,  on  the  Raritan  bay,  I  found  the 
Southern  half  of  this  State  to  be  low  and  level,  and  on 
my  return  found  the  Northern  part  to  be  hilly.  The 
soil  of  the  State  is  not  naturally  well  adapted  to  agri- 
cultural pursuits,  much  of  the  land  being  either  sandy 
or  marshy.  Many  large  swamps  may  be  seen  in  this 
State,  many  of  which  are  much  larger  and  present  ten- 
fold the  wildness  of  those  in  the  State  of  Delaware. — 
Large  bodies  of  land  in  these  regions  must  have  been 
swallowed  up  at  an  early  day  by  those  swamps  whose 
great  fleeces  of  green  moss,  rough  grass  and  equatic 
shrubbery  must  have  presented  an  object  oi  singular 
wildness  to  every  beholder.  Yet  with  all  its  swamps 
and  other  natural  impediments ;  its  proximity  to  the 
city  of  Philadelphia  on  the  i?outh-west  and  the  city  oi 
New  York  on  the  north-east,,  two  of  the  largest  mar- 
kets in  the  United  States,  the  industry  of  the  inhabi- 
tants have  rendered  it  exceedingly  fertile  in  all  kinds 
of  grain,  fruits  and  vegetables  common  to  the  climate. 
The  peach  in  this  State  flourishes  with  almost  as  much 
luxuriance  as  they  do  iji  Delaware,  the  soil  being  saa» 


STATE  OF  XEW  JERtiEV. 


43 


!amden — Bur- 
1  Banaparte — 
Amboy. 

stle  to  Cam- 
lling  north- 
I  found  the 
evel,  and  on 
hilly.     The 
ted  to  agri- 
lither  sandy- 
seen  in  this 
present  ten- 
elaware. — 
have  been 
rnps  whose 
,nd  equal  ic 
oi  singular 
its  swamps 
ity  to  the 
the  city  of 
irgest  mar- 
the  inhabi- 
all  kinds 
Ihe  climate. 
)st  as  much 
being  saU" 


dy  and  well  adapted  to  the  culture  of  that  fruit,  which 
is  here  a  source  of  considerable  profit.  The  greater 
portion  of  the  sandy  tract  of  this  State  is  yet  covered 
with  extensive  pine  forests,  which  afford  supplies  of 
fuel  to  its  numerous  furnaces  and  the  steamboats  of  the 
neiorhborino;  waters.  The  middle  section  of  this  State 
is  the  most  highly  improved  and  wealthy  part.  It  is 
divided  into  small  farms  and  kitchen-gardens,  which  are 
cultivated  with  a  superior  degree  of  skill,  the  product 
being  heavy  and  always  rewarding  the  proprietor  sat- 
isfactorily for  his  industry  ;  all  of  which  finds  a  ready 
market  in  the  manufacturing  towns  of  the  district,  and 
in  the  great  cities  of  the  adjoining  States. 

A  tour  through  the  various  sections  of  this  State  is 
attended  with  considerable  interest,  and  renders  a  rich 
equivalent  for  the  trouble  and  expense  attending  it. — 
This  does  not  consist  alone  in  seeing  its  various  pictur- 
esque and  delightful  scenery,  but  also  in  experiencing 
those  thrilling  associations  which  pass  in  rapid  review 
over  the  mind  when  gazing  on  many  of  the  battlefields, 
rendered  memorable  for  that  martial  strife  which  re- 
sulted in  the  overthrow  of  British  oppression  over  the 
colonies,  and  laid  the  legions  of  King  George  prostrate 
at  the  feet  of  the  Americans.  In  that  desperate  con- 
flict, this  State  suffered  more  than  any  other  in  propor- 
tion to  her  population  and  wealth,  as  the  State  was  oc- 
cupied for  several  years  by  the  British  and  American 
armies.  At  one  time  the  New  Jersey  militia  constitu- 
ted the  principal  strength  of  Washington's  army. 

On  sailing  up   the   Delaware,   the  principal  object 
worthy  of  notice  was  Red  Bank,  memorable   for  tho 


i 


■ 


I 


44 


RED  HANK. 


death  of  Count  Donop  and  the  slaughter  of  his  Hessians 
in  1777.  This  celebrated  place  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Delaware,  8  miles  below  Philadelphia. — ' 
On  the  lelt  bank  or  Pennsylvania  side  of  the  river,  is 
a  marsh  called  Mud  Island,  a  poor  place  indeed  for  a 
fort,  but  the  beft  Washington  coudl  find.  Here  he  or- 
dered Col.  Greene  to  erect  a  redoubt,  and  also  one  on 
the  Jersey  side  at  Red  Bank,  which  Greene  command- 
ed himself,  and  placed  the  gallant  Samuel  Smith  on 
Mud  Island  with  230  men,  where  they  prepared  for 
the  blciod}''  strife^  while  the  flood-tide  of  the  Delaware 
was  giroanino:  under  the  enormous  weight  of  the  British 
fleet  which  was  approaching  them,  who  soon  poured 
♦their  thunder  and  fldme  upon  this  Mud  Island  band. — 
We  are  told  they  stood  the  .  aock  to  a  miracle,  and 
threw  into  the  fleet  some  32  pounders  an  d  bombs,  which 
blew  up  the  Augusta,  a  64  giin  ship.  While  her  frag- 
ments and  her  crew  were  yet  floating  in  the  air,  the 
Black  Bird,  another  Ship,  blew  up  likewise,  and  went 
to  join  the  Augusta.  Count  Donop  t\'ith  his  host  of 
Hessians  made  a  gallant  attack  upon  Red  Bank  where 
Greene  gave  theiti  such  a  tremendous  shower  of  grape 
shot  and  spike  nailsj  that  the  host  gunk  down  b}'^  hun- 
dreds into  the  sweet  slumbers  of  death,  scarcely  sensi-^ 
ble  of  the  fatal  blow  that  relt  their  lives; 

The  city  of  Camden,  in  Burlington  county,  with  a 
population  of  4306,  situa'ed  opposite  Philadelphia,  is 
a  beautiful  town  of  850  dwellings.  Several  steam  fer» 
ry-boats  are  constantly  plying  between  the  two  cities. 
It  carries  on  some  branc  hes  of  manufacturing  iudustry, 
which  appear  to  bo  in  a  flourishing  state.     The  city 


BUnMNOTO.V r>ORDKNTC)W\. 


4.5 


s  Hessians 
1  the  right 
ielphia.— ' 
!  river,  is 
leed  for  a 
lere  he  or- 
Iso  one  on 
command- 
Smith  on 
epared  for 
1  Delaware 
the  British 
on  poured 
nd  band. — 
racle,  and 
mbs,  which 
le  her  frag- 
e  air,  the 
and  went 
is  tiost  of 
nk  where 
r  of  grape 
n  b}*^  hun- 
cely  sensi-i 

ty,  with  a 

[delphia,  is 

steam  fer* 

I  two  cities. 

jg  iudustry, 

The  citv 


contains  a  very  splendid  Court-house  and  other  county 
buildings,  eight  churches,  an  academy  and  one  hand- 
some bankinor-house.  Its  trade  is  considerable,  its 
wharves  excellent  and  the  location  of  the  city  delight- 
ful, commanding  a  fine  view  of  Philadelphia,  from 
which  it  is  distant  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  which  is 
the  width  of  the  Delaware  at  this  place, 

Burlington,  with  a  population  ol  3434,  is  delightful- 
ly situated  on  the  same  river,  17  miles  above  Philadel- 
phia. This  city  is  partly  encircled  by  a  beautiful 
stream  of  water,  over  which  are  four  handsome  bridg- 
es. This  place  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1784,  is 
regularly  laid  out,  contains  some  fine  private  mansions 
and  other  buildinjxs,  amongr  which  are  six  churches 
possessing  great  elegance.  The  most  beautiful  build- 
ing however,  is  the  residence  of  the  Bishop  of  New 
Jersey.  The  town  is  located  in  a  fertile  tract,  posses- 
^ng  many  delightful  little  farms,  adorned  with  suitable 
fliansions  ^nd  fa?*m  buildings. 

Bordentown,  with  a  population  of  1800,  is  situate  i 
on  the  Delaware,  27  miles  above  Philadelphia.  Ine 
town  is  regularly  built  on  a  site  70  above  the  river. — 
Steamers  from  Philadelphia  and  Trenton  touch  here 
several  times  a  day,  Bordentown  is  the  most  splendid- 
town  in  the  State,  being  most  admirably  situated  on  a 
commanding  eminence,  overlooking  the  Delaware  riv- 
er and  surrounding  country,  at  the  termination  of  the 
Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal.  The  town  is  adorned 
with  the  princely  mansion  of  the  late  Joseph  Bonaparte 
(Count  de  Survilliers,)  and  brother  of  Napoleon.  This 
unfortunate  l^ing  afler  abdicating  the  thro,  e  of  Spain, 


'. 


<ni!i 


11 


4G 


I'LAINS  OV    MO.XMOUTH SOUTH    AMBuY. 


(a  present  from  his  victorious  brother,)  he  sought  an  a- 
sylum  in  the  United  States,  and  erected  at  Bordentown 
a  splendid  mansion  which  is  celebrated  for  its  masterly 
points  of  architecture,  and  for  the  great  bea'ity,  order 
and  taste  displayed  in  the  gardens  and  grounds  sur- 
rounding the  mansion. 

The  principle  object  worthy  of  notice  in  Monmouth 
county  is  Freehold,  a  town  with  6303  inhabitants. — 
There  are  many  private  mansions  adorning  this  town, 
together  with  a  very  beautiful  Courthouse,  other  coun- 
ty buildings  and  seven  or  eight  churches  possessing  con- 
siderable elegance.  Freehold  is  celebrated  for  the 
great  battle  of  Sunday,  the  28th  of  June,  1778,  usual- 
ly known  as  the  battle  of  Monmouth,  where  Washing- 
ton burst  in  such  stern  '^'rath  on  Gen.  Lee  for  his  con- 
duct ;  and  amid  the  thunder  of  artillery  and  the  shouts 
of  the  victorious  British  legions,  he  rallied  his  broken 
and  dying  ranks,  and  rolled  back  the  tide  oi  battle  with 
his  mighty  arm,  thus  saving  the  American  army  from 
utier  route.  Lee,  stung  for  his  act  towards  his  com- 
mander-in-chief, strove  heroically  to  retrieve  the  lau- 
rels  lost  by  his  conduct  in  the  commencement  of  the 
battle,  and  was  the  last  mail  upon  the  bloody  field, 
striving  nobly  to  save  the  army.  Their  sufferings  from 
the  excessive  heat  were  unparalleled  in  the  history  of 
any  war,  the  tongues  of  many  of  the  soldiers  being  so 
swollen  that  it  was  impossible  to  retain  them  in  their 
mouth  ;  and  when  the  terrible  strife  had  ceased  there 
were  found  4  American  and  59  British  soldiers  who 
had  perished  from  the  effects  of  heat  alone. 

South  Amboy,  with  1825  inhabitants,  situated  at  the 


'Sl 


STATE  OF  NEW  YORK. 


i7 


ight  an  a- 
rdentown 
3  masterly 
ty,  order 
unds   sur- 

don  mouth 
bitants. — 
this  town, 
ther  coun- 
jssing  con- 
d   for   the 
78,  usual- 
I  Washing- 
3r  his  con- 
the  shouts 
his  broken 
battle  with 
rmy  from 

his  com- 
e  the  lau- 
ent  of  the 
)ody  field, 
wrings  from 

history  of 
1  being  so 
n  in  their 
ased  there 
Idiers  who 


Jnouth  of  the  Raritan  river,  on  a  bay  ol  the  same  name. 
The  city  has  an  excellent  harbor  and  is  actively  enga- 
ged In  trade.  In  sailing  h*om  this  place  to  the  city  of 
New  York,  we  passed  through  Amboy  straits,  which 
separates  the  main  land  of  New  Jersey  from  Staten  Is- 
land. This  winding  channel  is  in  parts  only  half  a 
mile  wide,  with  many  splendid  villas  and  country  res- 
idences on  Staten  Island.  Its  banks  are  well  wooded. 
The  trees  were  beorinninor  to  unfold  their  leaves,  amonoj 
which  were  the  scarlet  maple,  the  horse  chestnut  and 
lime  tree  in  bloom  ;  the  Judas  tree,  conspicuous  with 
its  purpleish  pink  blossoms ;  the  dogwood  with  its  dis- 
play of  white  flowers,  while  the  lilacs  flowering  in  the 
gardens,  presented  a  scene  grand  and  delightful,  after 
having  remained  leafless  for  the  seven  preceding  months. 


CHAPTER    V. 

STATE     OF     NEW     YORK. 

Aspect  of  the  State — City  of  New  York — Natural  Advantagos 
of  the  City — Throngs  of  People— City  Hall— View  from  the 
Cupola — Exchange — Astor  House — Custom  House— Halls  of 
Justice — Post  Office — Battery— Union  Park — Castle  Garden 
— Columbia  College — Hospital — Asylum — University. 

This  great  State,  on  which  nature  has  showered  with 
such  a  liberal  hand,  those  bounties  so  necessary  for  a 
nation's  prosperity,  is  exhibiting  to  the  world  one  of 
those  amazing  examples  of  growth  and  prosperity,  per- 
haps lowhere  to  be  found  on  the  face  of  the  globe. — 


48 


StAtn  OF  SKW  VORK. 


Her  works  are  executed  on  a  scale  of  imperial  gran* 
deor,  the  State  almost  litei'ally  executing  what  Xerxes 
the  Great  fancied  in  his  threats  to  the  mountain.  We 
here  see  her  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  artificial  lev- 
els for*  her  Railroads  and  Canals,  hewing  down  hills 
and  mountains  and  casting  them  headlong  into  sea  and 
ravine,  and  spanding  her  noble  rivers  with  bridges  and 
aqueducts.  The  great  trunk  which  connects  the  great 
central  basin  of  the  lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence  With 
the  Atlantic,  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  enterprises 
of  the  age,  extending  from  Buffalo  on  Lake  Erie,  through 
the  fertile  vallies  of  the  Genesee  and  Mohawk,  to  the 
city  of  Albany  on  the  Hudson,  a  distance  of  364  miles. 
The  Champlain  Canal  extends  from  thd  south  end  of 
Lake  Champlain  at  White  Hall,  to  the  city  ol  Troy  on 
the  Hudson,  a  distance  of  76  miles.  These  great  ca- 
nals, with  their  numerous  branches  extending  in  almost 
every  direction  through  the  fertile  regions  of  the  State, 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  $13,500,000,  which,  together 
with  other  noble  enterprises,  have  won  for  Mew  York 
the  applause  of  the  world. 

New  York  is  not  only  distinguished  for  hef  untiring 
enterprise  and  magnificent  public  works,  but  ior  her 
sublime  and  beautiful  natural  scenery,  consisting  in 
part  in  her  water  falls,  her  numerous  inland  lakes  of 
fresh  water.  Among  these  may  be  named  Lakes  George 
and  Saratoga  in  the  north  and  Lakes  Cayuga  and  Sene- 
ca in  the  western  part  of  the  State,  which  are  admired 
by  every  traveller  for  their  beauty — while  Glen's  Falls 
in  the  north,  Trenton  Falls  and  Genesee  Falls  in  the 
western  part  of  the  State  arc  each  admired  lor  the  gran* 


S'KW  YOKK  ClTW 


V^ 


rial   gran- 
lat  Xerxes 
tain.     We 
jficial  lev- 
lown  hills 
ito  sea  and 
Dridges  and 
ts  the  great 
rence  with 
entet*prises 
Tie,  through 
■wk,  to   the 
f  364  miles, 
luth   end  of 
'  of  Troy  on 
e  great   ca- 
ns in  almost 
of  the  State, 
h,   together 
New  York 

Ihet*  untiring 
Ihut   lor  her 
insisting   in 
id  lakes  of 
Jakes  George 
;a  and  Sene- 
lare  admired 
Glen's  Falls 
'alls   in   the 
lior  the  gran* 


i\eu:  they  present.  These,  with  Niagara  Falls  on  her 
western  frontier,  a  part  of  which  she  claims  as  her  own, 
which  crowns  the  known  globe  in  grandeur  and  sub*- 
limity,  have  been  pronounced  Ihe  most  stupendous 
scenes  ''n  nature*  After  traversing  the  various  sections 
of  the  State,  every  traveller  is  compelled  to  como  to 
the  conclusion  that  New  York  is  justly  entitled  to  the 
proud  name  she  claims  for  herself — that  of  Empire 
State. — Not  so  much  for  her  size  as  for  the  sublime 
character  of  her  natural  scenery,  her  magnificent  pub- 
lic works,  large  and  flourishing  cities,  towns  €iml  villa- 
ges, her  noble  enterprise  and  the  high  state  of  her  ag- 
riculture* The  western  sections  of  the  State  are  either 
tevel  or  merely  widulating :  the  soil  is  of  a  good  quali** 
ty  and  finely  adapted  ^o  the  growth  of  wheat.  The 
central  parts  are  agreeably  undulating.  The  eastern 
frontier  is  mountainous,  being  traversed  by  the  High»* 
land,  Catskill  and  Mohegan  ranges  ;  and  near  the  Penn* 
sylvania  boundary  the  country  is  very  hilly. 

The  city  of  New  York  contains  a  population  of  371,*- 
223,  and  is  beautifully  and  advantageously  situated  on 
the  ancient  island  of  Manhattan,  which  is  formed  by 
the  junction  of  the  Hudson  and  East  rivers,  16  miles 
from  the  great  Atlantic  ocean.  No  city  in  the  World 
can  possess  more  if  equal  advantages  for  foreign  com- 
naerce  and  inland  trade.  The  two  long  lines  of  canals 
above  named^  connect  the  fertile  west  and  north  with 
the  Hudson,  by  means  of  which  vast  trade  is  shipped 
to  the  city.  This,  with  other  natural  advantages,  has 
rendered  it  the  most  wealthy  and  flourishing  of  all  A» 
mexican  cities,  and  i\v'  greatest  emporium  of  the  west* 


ml 

■'iz 


ii.i 


90 


THRONGS  or  fEon.p;* 


ern  hemisphere,  and  af't^r  London,  the  greatest  ia  iht 
ivorld. 

The  citj  is  well  built  and  regularly  laid  out,  with 
the  exception  ol  the  older  part  of  the  city,  in  which 
the  streets  are  crowded,  narrow,  crsoked  and  dirty  ; 
but  this  now  forms  only  a  small  portion  of  the  city.— 
It  is  not  so  much  distinguished  for  its  regularity  and 
beauty  as  for  being  the  great  mart  of  foreign  and  inland 
commerce,  from  almost  every  part  or  section  of  the 
world.  The  stranger  on  walking  its  streets,  after  leav- 
ing his  quiet  home  and  thd  fresh  atmosphere  of  the 
country,  finds  it  a  dusty,  smoky,  noisy,  busy,  great  and 
animating  emporium.  In  this  mighty  metropolis,  the 
stranger  from  abroad  may  see  its  fine  buildings,  its  long 
streets  and  handsome  places  5  its  dense  throngs  of  in- 
habitants, its  immense  shipping  and  its  enormous  trade. 
He  may  observe  on  the  one  hand,  the  princely  dwel- 
ling, the  costly  equipage  and  the  splendid  appearan- 
ces; and  on  the  other  hand  the  squalid  hut  of  poverty, 
of  filth,  of  extreme  misery  and  degradation.  He  may 
perceive  the  eddying  throngs  gathering  and  whirling, 
scattering  and  hurrying  hither  and  thither,  in  the  ac- 
tivity of  commercial  pursuits.  He  may  here  become 
confused  by  the  never-ending  turbulence  and  commo- 
tion, with  the  hundreds  of  mingled  notes  and  noises 
M'hich  are  ever  arising  from  the  multifarious  trades  and 
occupations  of  its  thousands  of  inhabitants.  And  among 
its  mingled  crowds  he  may  meet  Frenchmen,  Spaniards, 
Italians,  Austrians,  Swiss,  Germans,  Russians,  Chinese, 
Jews,  Turks,  Africans,  Portuguese,  English,  Southrons 
and  Yankees  :  all  commingling  in  the   same    hour,    in 


J 

i 


fvtl.U    Ullt.DlS'G*. 


51 


lest  iu  tlit 

out,  with 
,  in  which 
and  dirty  } 
the  city.— 
ularity  and 
1  and  inland 
tion  of  the 
!,  after  leav- 
bere  of  the 
ly,  great  and 
ropolis,  the 
ing3,  its  long 
rongs  of  in- 
rmous  trade, 
cely  dvvel- 
d  appearan- 
of  poverty, 
.     He  may 
td  whirling, 
I,  in  the  ac- 
ere  become 
Xid.  commo- 
and  noises 
lus  trades  and 
And  among 
In,  Spaniards, 
ns,  Chinese, 
Southrons 
hour,    in 


i 


4 


lh«  same  strrt-l,  in  Ihu  siune  scone  and  all  of  wliunij 
perhaps  afe  numbered  in  the  census  of  this  great  me- 
tropolis. He  here  sees  that  nothing  is  fixed,  nothing 
is  permanently  settled— all  is  moving  and  removing, 
organising  and  disorganising,  building  up  and  tearing 
down  ;  the  ever  active  spirit  of  change  seems  to  per- 
vade all  bodies,  all  things  and  all  places  in  this  mighty 
metropolis. 

Objects  of  attraction.  The  City  Hall,  erected  at 
a  cost  of  $538,731,  is  216  feet  in  length,  105  feet  in 
width  and  51  feet  in  height,  surmounted  by  a  cupola, 
on  which  is  a  figure  of  justice.  From  the  cupola  there 
is  a  beautiful  view  of  the  city,  with  her  195  churches 
with  their  towering  steeples,  all  presented  to  your  view 
besides  those  of  the  cities  of  Brooklyn,  Jersey  and 
Newark.  With  the  aid  of  a  telescope,  you  can  see 
far  over  the  surrounding  country,  and  far  up  Long  Isl- 
and  Sound.  The  Governor's  room  in  this  building,  is 
used  as  a  receptidn  hall  by  the  Governor,  Mayor  and 
celebrated  men  who  occasionally  visit  the  city.  It 
perhaps  contains  the  finest  collection  of  portraits  of 
distinguished  men  in  the  United  States.  Among  them 
are  the  Governors  of  New  York,  Mayors  of  the  city,- 
naval  and  military  officers,  all  the  heroes  of  the  late 
war  with  Great  Britain  ;  also,  a  long  writing  table  for- 
merly used  by  Washington,  and  the  chair  occupied  by 
him  when  President  of  the  first  Congress.  The  Com- 
mon Council  room  contiguous^  also  contains  a  number 
of  fine  portraits. 

The  Merchant's  Exchange,  in  Wall,  corner  of  Wil- 
liam'  street,  is  a  very  splendid    edifice,   constructed  of 


i; 


-  ,i  h 


rtsroAf  tior?fi. 


Qniucy  «j;ranit«^,  '200  fret  loii^,  120  feet  uide  and  I2i 
fort  to  tlir  (op  of  tho  (lomo.  The  rotundo  is  80  feet  in 
(liamotor,  and  isnpon  tho  whole  a  vrry  handsome  struc- 
ture. The  Astor  House  opposite  the  Park  Fountain, 
is  a  vast  Hotel,  constructed  of  Quincy  ojranitP,  200  feet 
long,  150  feet  wide,  77  feet  hij2;h  and  contains  390 
rooms.  The  whole  structure  heinp;  stone,  the  floors 
are  heautiful!}'  pavetl  with  hlocks  of  marble. 

The  Custom  House,  situated  at  the  corner  of  Wall 
and  Nassau  streets,  extendin<j;  to  Pine  street,  is  built  of 
white  marble,  at  a  cost  of  $950,000,  and  occupies  the 
site  of  the  old  Federal  Hall,  where  Washington  was  in- 
au^jurated  President  of  the  United  States.  It  is  open 
for  business  and  visitors  between  10  a.  m.  and  3  p.  m. 
It  is  177  feet  long:,  ^^  ^^^^  wide  and  modelled  after 
the  Parthenon  at  Athens.  It  etandson  a  basement  sto- 
ry, ascended  by  nineteen  stone  steps  from  Wall  street, 
and  six  steps  from  Pine  street.  There  are  eight  Gre- 
cian Doric  columns  at  each  front,  and  fifteen  columns 
and  an  anta  on  each  side,  attached  to  the  walls.  There 
is  also  a  second  row  of  si,\  columns,  somewhat  smaller, 
back  of,  and  parallel  with  those  of  the  main  front,  leav- 
ing a  space  of  ten  feet  between  the  two  rows,  and  a- 
bout  nine  feet  between  the  inner  row  and  the  front 
wall  of  the  building.  Back  of  the  two  extremes  of  the 
inner  row,  there  are  two  antas  ;  there  are  also  six  antas  • 
attached  to  the  walls  of  the  rear  front,  leaving  a  space 
of  about  ei2:ht  feet  between  the  columns  and  the  antas. 
There  are,  according  to  this  order  of  architecture,  21 
outride  columns,  5  feet  8  inches  in  diameter  at  the  bot- 
tom and  32  fet't  high,  including  the  capitol  ;  and  !San- 


th( 
tri; 
tio 


IS 


t^  .>'ru.M    iioi^r:. 


58 


laM  on  the  two  sides,  orthe  saniu  height,  five  iVvt  wide 
and  iicQily  four  loct  jiroji'ctions  IVom  the  wAh.  'i'he 
()  iniKT  columns  of  the  main  front  are  l  feet  H  inches 
in  diameter  at  the  hottom  and  the  antas  corr(?spond. — 
The  huilding  is  two  .stories  lii^h  except  the  ^neat  busi- 
ness hall,  which  is  vaulted  as  high  as  the  roof  will  per- 
mit, and  its  centre  finished  with  a  dome  GO  leet  in  di- 
ameter. 'J'his  hall  occupies  the  centre  of  the  Luildinjr, 
and  is  115  leet  long,  leavin<i;  a  small  vestibule  at  each 
end  to  enter  from.  Being  /7  feet  wide  it  leaves  bey- 
ond the  circumference  of  these  dimensions,  space  where 
are  found  six  rooms  and  three  circular  staircases  in  th« 
four  corners.  The  two  largest  rooms  are  each  24-  leet 
by  21,  besides  a  square  staircase  in  the  rear  and  three 
vaults  for  papers,  at  the  two  ends  ol  the  vestibules. — 
The  same  division  of  rooms  is  made  in  the  second  story. 
Nearly  the  same  number,  shape  and  size  of  rooms  are 
found  in  the  basement  as  in  those  above,  leaving  all 
the  area  of  the  same  shape  and  size  as  the  p;reat  hall 
immediately  above  it,  with  the  addition  of  IG  fluted 
cjlumns  of  the  Doric  order,  which  support  the  vaiiltin<5j 
and  the  pavement  under  the  dome  of  the  great  hall. 

The  Halls  of  Justice,  situated  in  Centre,  corner  tcr 
Leonard  street,  is  occupied  by  some  of  the  Courts. — 
Part  of  the  building  is  used  as  a  Police  Station  House. 
The  building  is  usually  known  as  the  Tombs,  wherein 
the  Police  Courts  may  often  be  heard  rich  and  amusing 
trials  of  persons,  arrested  by  the  police  for  the  viola- 
tion of  the  laws  and  regulations  of  the  city. 

The  Post  Office,  formerly  the  middle  Dutch  Church, 
is  n  venerable  edifice,  which  has  stood  for  116  years. 


'  ti 


54. 


EATTKRT — rA?TM>C  AR1)E\. 


f$ 


During  the  Revolution  it  was  used  as  a  prison  for  a- 
bout  3,000  Americans,  and  afterwards  as  a  riding  school 
for  the  British  cavalry.  The  North  Dutch  Church,  in 
William  street,  was  also  used  for  the  same  purpose. 

The  Battery,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  city, 
\H  a  delightful  open  piece  of  ground,  containing  about  1 1 
acres,  well  shaded  with  beautifnl  trees,  commanding  a 
very  delightful  view  of  the  harbour  and  its  ports,  isl- 
ands, ships,  steamers,  fishing-boats,  &c.  The  Park  is 
a  very  beautiful  spot  of  ground,  centrally  situated,  has 
a  handsome  fountain,  is  the  site  of  the  City  Hall  and 
Mall  of  Records,  which  will  be  noticed  in  their  places. 
It  ip  also  the  site  of  the  New  York  Gallery  of  Fine 
Arts.  Union  Park,  at  the  upper  extremity  of  Broad- 
way, is  a  handsome  piece  of  ground,  neatly  arranged, 
and  contains  a  very  pretty  fountain.  Each  of  these 
Parks  are  enclosed  with  a  strong,  handsome  iron  fence. 

Castle-Garden  is  a  place  celebrated  /or  pleasure — a 
structure  used  in  winter  as  a  place  ior  large  meetings 
of  a  public  character,  for  balls,  concerts,  &c.  ;  and  in 
summer  as  a  place  to  promenade.  The  interior  has  a 
very  imposing  elTect  to  a  stranger,  owing  to  the  mag- 
nitude and  neat  arrangement  of  the  place,  which  is 
considered  the  largest  audience  room  in  the  world,  be- 
ing over  700  feet  in  circumference.  Its  capacity  is 
ample  for  the  accommodation  of  between  15  and  16,- 
000  persons.  Columbia  College,  at  the  loot  of  Park 
Place,  founded  nearly  a  century  ago,  has  a  library  of 
over  14,000  volumes.  The  New  York  Hospital  is  a 
large,  handsome  and  well  conducted  institution  at  319 
Broadwa.v,     The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  located  in 


i 


\»W  YORK  TTNIVSRSITY. 


55 


ison  for  a- 
iing  school 
Church,  in 
mrpose. 
f  the  city, 
ig  about  1 1 
manding  a 
ports,  isl- 
he  Park  is 
ituated,  has 
'    Hall  and 
heir  places. 
ry  of  Fine 
r  of  Broad- 
y  arranged, 
h   of  these 
iron  fence, 
pleasure — a 
;e  meetings 
LC. ;  and  in 
erior  has  a 
o  the  raag- 
which  is 
e  world,  be- 
capacity  is 
15  and  16,- 
Dot  of  Park 
library  of 
ospital  is  a 
it  ion  at  319 
is  located  in 


50th  street.  Visitors  are  received  in  those  institutioni 
by  tickets  from  the  managers,  on  Tuesdays,  from  1  to 
6  P.  M, 

The  New  York  University  is  a  splendid  edifice  ot 
white  marble,  which  truly  exhibits  a  specimen  of  the 
handsomest  English  collegiate  style  of  architecture, — 
It  is  situated  between  Washington  Place  and  Waverley 
Place,  and  fronts  Washington  square  towards  the  west. 
This  structure  is  100  feet  wide  and  180  feet  long.— 
The  building  on  every  side  that  it  may  be  viewed,  has 
a  very  splendid  appearance,  consisting  of  a  central 
building  with  wings  flanked  by  towers,  one  rising  on 
each  ot  the  four  corners  of  the  edifice.  This  central 
building  or  chapel,  is  55  feet  broad  and  85  feet  deep, 
and  is  truly  a  masterpiece  of  pointed  architecture  and 
h  <i  nriodel  for  succeeding  ages.  At  the  west  end  of 
tL  •..  apel  is  a  window  50  feet  high  and  24  feet  wide, 
by  which  a  large  portion  of  the  chapel  is  lighted.  This 
window  contains  8  lights  and  embattled  tranfloms ;  the 
heads  of  the  lights  are  cinque  foiled  in  a  plain  arch, 
and  the  divisions  above  are  quarter  foiled.  By  ascend- 
ing a  broad  flight  of  stone  steps,  immediately  before 
the  great  window,  brings  you  to  the  principal  entrance- 
into  the  building,  just  under  the  window.  The  en- 
trance is  through  a  richly  mounted  and  deep  recessed 
portal,  flanked  by  buttresses  of  two  stages ;  the  upper 
stage  set  diagonally  and  rising  above  an  embattled  par- 
apet, finished  in  crotcheted  heads,  crowned  with  a  pin- 
nacle. The  other  doors  of  the  building  are  oak,  richly 
panelled,  which  have  the  appearance  ot  being  filled 
with  tracery  of  open  work,  closely  studded  with  bronze. 


I 


5t> 


l^iKW  VOKK  CTTl'. 


;  ."!ii 


The  principal  floor  in  the  building  is  the  one  gainetl 
by  the  broad  flight  of  steps  above  named,  which  floor 
contains  the  rooms  devoted  to  the  use  of  literary  soci- 
eties, one  large  lecture  room  and  some  smaller  rooms 
ior  classes  in  mathematics,  natural  intellectual  and  mor- 
al philosophy,  history,  civil  engineering,  and  the  high- 
er classes  in  the  various  departments  of  learning.  On 
the  second  floor  are  the  studio  of  the  professor  of  de- 
sign, with  a  cabinet  of  models,  &c.  In  other  parts  of 
the  building  are  seen  libraries,,  antiquities,  &c. 

The  atranger  after  examining  several  oi  the  most 
prominent  structures  presented  to  his  view,  his  mind 
becomes  sufiiciently  composed  to  receive  other  and  e- 
qually  agreeable  impressions  of  New  York ;  and  he  goes 
forth  to  satisfy  his  curiosity  ansong  her  stately  edifice* 
and  crowded  thoroughfares.  The  dimensions,  extent 
and  colors  of  the  buildings,  the  strange  and  various 
costumes,  the  number  and  style  of  the  equipages  of  this 
magnificent  city,  as  seen  in  the  light  of  a  summer's 
sun,  never  fail  to  delight  the  stranger,  or  call  forth  his 
repeated  exclamations  of  amazement.  The  great  Broad- 
way, filled  with  cwnnibusses,  carriages  and  footmen,  in 
liveries  of  every  variety  and  description,  are  in  them- 
selves sufiicient  to  surpass  all  the  expectations  ot  the 
tourist,  if  he  went  no  farther,  and  went  away  with  no 
other  than  this  passing  view  to  remind  him  of  the  great 
emporium  of  the  western  hemisphere.  Here  he  may 
find  numerous  gardent,  public  squares,  parks,  fountains 
and  churches  with  walls  and  towers  of  every  hue, 
stand  forth  in  fantastic  grandeur.  On  every  side,  a- 
raund  him,  for  miles  and  miles  extend  the    mwltiforaa 


:i:W  YORK  LlTV 


57 


le  {jaineJ 
hich  floor 
^ry  soci- 
ler  rooms 

I  and  mor- 
i  the  high- 

ng.  On 
sor  of  de- 
r  parts  ol' 

the  most 
his  mind 
icr  and  e- 
nd  he  goes 
ly  edifice* 
ns,  extent 
id  various 
igesofthis 
sammer's 

II  forth  his 
eat  Broad- 
otmen,  in 
e  in  them- 
>ns  ol  the 
ly  with  no 
>f  the  great 
«  he  may 
,  fountains 
very  hue, 
/  side,  a- 
multiform 


and  variegated  mass  of  buildings,  with  chequered  walls, 
red,  green  and  gilded  roofs,  cupolas  and  spires  without 
number.  He  may  behold  a  portion  of  her  streets  broad, 
straight,  well  paved  and  beautiful  ;  while  on  the  other 
hand  he  will  see  others  dirty,  narrow  and  irregular, 
turning  and  twisting  in  every  direction,  and  in  their 
windings  constantly  presenting  some  singular  and  nov- 
el feature, — which  being  continually  thronged  with 
people  and  equipages  passing  to  and  fro  in  an  unbro- 
ken stream,  and  filling  with  life  the  narrow  windings 
of  ground  before  him.  On  the  right  and  left  are  pala- 
ces, cottages,  churches  and  noble  halls  of  various  ar- 
chitecture, in  red,  blue,  green  and  white  succeed  each 
other  with  a  rapidity  which  at  first  surprises  and  then 
bewilders  the  passing  stranger ;  and  it  is  not  until  he 
ascends  to  the  cupola  of  the  City  Hall  and  takes  in  the 
whole  at  one  great  view,  that  he  is  enabled  to  receive 
a  fixed  and  decided  impression  of  the  greatest  of  A- 
merican  cities. 

The  traveller  on  walking  the  pavements  of  thest 
winding  »treets,  which  present  one  ol  the  most  singu- 
lar and  animating  scenes  of  any  other  city  in  the  Uni- 
on, is  often  much  annoyed  by  the  eager  shopmen,  who 
Irom  every  door  will  beseech  him  with  bows  and  gen- 
tle violence,  and  with  many  promises  to  sell  cheaper 
than  his  neighbors.  Among  the  moving  throng  he 
will  be  able  to  discover  ladies  and  gentlemen  who  are 
bred  in  the  lap  of  luxury,  who  employ  and  practise  all 
the  accomplishments  and  seductive  arts  that  most  en- 
chant society.  The  ladies  have  much  vivacity  ol  mind, 
^race  of  manner  and  display  the  most  exquisite  taste 


f>8 


AMl'RRAN'   MlrJKlM. 


in  all  apportalning  to  dress.  Among  the  gentlemen 
may  be  found  some  possessing  all  the  moral,  intellect- 
ual and  religious  training  and  cultivation  necessary  to 
develope  the  nobler  faculties  of  our  nature,  while  oth- 
ers may  be  pointed  out,  more  distinguished  for  then- 
wit  and  pliability  of  mind,  than  for  their  attainments 
in  sound  philosophy  ;  while  still  another  class  may  be 
observed  who  are  almost  destitute  of  every  thing  cal- 
culated to  adorn. 


m" 


CHAPTER    VI. 


American  Museum — Great  Collection  of  Curiositios — Painting! 
—-Scriptural  Statuary — Jewish  Sandhedrim — High  Priest — 
Caiphas — Dress  of  the  High  Priests — Scribes  and  Lawyer — 
Barabbas — Executioners — Figure  of  the  Savior — Roman  Coun- 
cil— Pontius  Pilate — Pilate's  Wife — MesiusQuintus — Position 
of  the  Council — Roman  Guards — Scriptural  Sketch — Affect- 
ing Scene — Death  Warrant  of  Jesus — Sketch  of  its  Discovery 
— Hall  of  Records. 

The  American  Museum,  a  very  large  and  splendid 
marble  building,  is  situated  at  the  corner  of  Broadway 
and  Ann  street.  It  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  Ameri- 
ca, containing  several  larore  and  commodious  halls  over 
100  feet  in  length,  filled  with  an  innumerable  quantity 
of  curiosities  from  every  portion  of  the  globe.  Here 
are  birds  of  every  variety  and  clime,  from  the  Ostrich 
to  the  hundred  kinds  of  Humming  birds ;  from  the  Bird 
of  Paradise  of  the  Tropics,  to  the  Penguin  of  the  Polar 
regions;  besides  preserved  animals  and  reptiles.     The 


■m 


AMERICAN  MUSETM. 


5^ 


'  gentlemen 
il,  intellect- 
lecessary  to 
,  while  oth- 
?d  for  their 
attainments 
lass  may  be 
r  thing  cal- 


oa — Paintings 
Ugh  Priest- 
id  Lawyer — 
Roman  Coun- 
tus — Position 
etch — AfTect- 
its  Discovery 


d  splendid 
'  Broadway 
in  Ameri- 
8  halls  over 
le  quantity 
>be.  Here 
he  Ostrich 
m  the  Bird 
t  the  Polar 
iles.     The 


^«partraent8  of  Conchology,  Entomology  and  Mineral- 
ogy are  very  perfect. 

The  grand  Cosmorama  contains  a  very  large  number 
of  views  of  the  most  celebrated  cities,  beautiful  land- 
scapes, water  views  and  many  other  things  executed 
by  the  first  artists  in  Europe.  The^  miscellaneous  cu- 
riosities include  a  fine  collection  of  old  paintings  and 
rare  engravings,  many  Chinese  curiosities,  ancient  suits 
of  armor,  mail  and  arms,  antique  coins,  splendid  fossils, 
beautiful  statuary,  finely  preserved  Egyptian  mummies, 
&c.  The  picture  gallery  contains  several  hundred  por- 
traits of  the  great  men  of  America,  the  most  of  whom 
have  passed  off  the  stage  of  action:  such  as  Franklin, 
Washington,  Jeflferson,  Madison,  Monroe,  the  Adams 
and  Hancock  family,  John  Jay,  Jackson,  &c.,  besides 
many  who  are  still  shining  lights  in  the  western  hem- 
isphere, as  Clay,  Calhoun,  Cass,  Col.  Johnson,  M'Duf* 
fie,  Webster,  Generals  Scott,  Worth,  Quitman,  Twiggs, 
Pillow,  &c.  This  splendid  gallery  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  objects  to  the  thousands  of  visitors  of  the 
Museum,  both  citizens  and  strangers ;  and  can  never 
fail  to  excite  the  admiration  of  every  beholder,  wheth- 
er amateur  in  painting,  or  a  mere  admirer  of  the  whole, 
as  forming  a  grand  gallery  of  thaintelligence  and  mor- 
al worth  of  our  nation.  The  performances  are  chaste 
and  interesting,  and  of  such  a  nature  as  to  secure  the 
patronage  of  the  better  classes  of  community.  The 
Lecture  room  is  large,  beautifully  and  tastefully  ar- 
ranged, and  capable  of  seating  about  1200  persons. — 
The  entertainments  take  place  every  afternoon  and  eve- 
ning and  are  always  of  an  unexceptionable  nature. — 


U 


I' 


: 


1''  ' ' 


\m''' 


i 


60 


iSIKniCAN  Ml'!»E^l'!l*. 


Such  regulations  are  established  and  enforced  as  (o  ren- 
der it  perfectly  safe  and  pleasant  for  ladies  and  children 
to  visit  the  Museum  at  any  time,  without  being  accom- 
panied by  gentlemen,  In  different  parts  of  the  build- 
ing various  mechanical  works  and  figures  are  exhibi- 
ted, affording  a  great  deal  of  amusement ;  and  their  va- 
rious tables  are  surrounded  by  admiring  crowds,  A- 
mongst  the  rest  is  an  automaton  writer  and  draughts- 
man, which  gives  the  population  of  Paris  in  figures, 
writes  legibly  in  FreRch  and  can  draw  on  paper,  birds, 
butterflies,  &c.,  in  very  handsome  style. 

The  third  floor  of  this  famous  Museum  contains  some 
very  splendid  Scriptural  Statuary,  exhibited  in  four 
different  groups,  representing  in  figures  the  size  of  life, 
the  Birth  of  Christ,  the  Last  Supper  of  Christ  and  his 
twelve  Apostles  and  his  Trial  before  Caiphas  and  Pon- 
tius Pilate.  The  whole  ol  this  statuary  has  an  appear- 
ance as  natural  as  life.  The  two  last  named  groups 
are  intended  to  represent  that  moment  in  the  trial  ol 
our  Saviour,  when  Caiphas  says  to  him,  "  I  adjure  thee 
by  the  living  God,  that  thou  tell  us  whether  thou  be 
Christ  the  Son  of  God." 

As  the  spectator  approaches  this  statuary,  the  group 
on  the  right  represents  the  Sanhedrim  or  Jewish  Counr 
cil,  of  which  the  High  Priest,  Caiphas  is  President. — 
He  is  at  once  recognised  by  his  breast-plate,  which 
consists  of  twelve  gems  set  in  gold,  and  on  each  is  in- 
scribed the  name  of  a  tribe  of  Israel,  which  are  set  in 
tour  rows,  three  in  each  row,  making  up  the  twelve 
different  tribes.  This  ornament  we  are  informed,  was 
never  to  be  separated  from  the  priestly  garment :  an4 


A^fliRlCA^'  ML-fiiuM. 


r,i 


as  fo  retl" 
d  children 
ng  accora- 
the  build- 
re  exhibi- 
i  their  va- 
»wds.     A- 

draughts- 
n  figures, 
per,  birds, 

tains  soine 
;d  in  four 
size  of  life, 
St  and  hiis 
s  and  Pon- 
an  appear- 
ed groups 
le  trial  ol 
djure  thee 
r  thou  be 

the  gtoup 
rish  Counr 
esident. — 
te,  which 
?ach  is  in- 
are  set  in 
le  twelve 
•med,  was 
lent  J  an4 


it  was  called  the  <memQrial,'  because  it  was  a  sign 
whereby  the  children  ol  Israel  might  know  that  they 
were  presented  to  God,  and  that  they  were  held  in  re^ 
membrance  by  him.  The  second  thing  which  attracts 
attention  is  his  dress,  which  is  richly  ornamented,  es- 
pecially the  bottom  ol  the  dress,  with  its  bells,  pome- 
granites,  &c.,  together  with  the  cap  of  the  Priest,  with 
inscriptions  of  'Holiness  to  the  Lord,'  and  just  above  in 
Hebrew  characters,  the  word  'Jehovah.'  The  Presi- 
dent, Gaiphas,  is  surrounded  by  Jewish  Priests,  dressed 
in  ricl>  robes,  having  caps  upon  their  heads,  bearing 
the  same  inscriptions  as  that  of  the  President.  The 
dresses  accord  in  every  particular  with  the  description 
given  in  the  Bible. 

Standing  on  the  left  of  Caiphas,  is  the  Jewish  Priest 
Samach.  He  is  giving  great  attention  to  the  Scribes 
and  Lawyer,  who  are  at  the  table,  to  whom  he  says — 
"  Be  he  guilty  or  innocent,  yet  because  he  ob;serves  not 
the  la>y  of  his  ancestors  he  is  not  to  be  tolerated." — 
Here  we  have  his  ideas  of  justice.  Quilty  or  innocent, 
it  matters  not  to  him.  He  says  Jesus  is  not  to  be  tol- 
erated because  he  does  not  follow  in  the  footsteps  of 
his  ancestors.  It  can  be  perceived  by  the  expression 
of  their  countenances,  that  the  whole  Jewish  Council 
wet-e  predetermined  to  put  our  Saviour  to  an  ignomin- 
ious death ;  while  the  Roman  Council  on  the  left,  plain- 
ly express  an  anxiety  that  Christ,  who  they  are  satis- 
f^eJ  IS  innocent,  should  be  released. 

About  halfway  between  the  two  groups  or  Councils, 
is  a  table,  around  which  are  seated  the  Scribes  and 
Lawyer.     The  Scribes  are  intent  upon  writing  down 


i 


ill 

: 


62 


AMERICAN  MUBGUM. 


the  proceedings  of  the  tiial,  lor  which  purpose  they  u- 
sed  pointed  instruments  called  stiles  instead  of  pens, 
and  wrote  upon  parchment,  as  paper  was  unknown.— 
They  appear  to  express  no  opinion  of  the  merits  of  the 
trial,  although  there  is  not  that  appearance  of  resent- 
ment as  exhibited  in  the  Priests.  They  are  surround- 
ed by  parchment,  on  which  the  laws  were  written, 
and  to  which  they  are  referring,  and  listening  to  the 
Priest,  who  is  addressing  them  in  regard  to  the  laws  un- 
der which  Christ  is  condemned. — But  the  answer  of 
the  Lawyer  does  not  seem  to  be  satisfactory  to  the  ha- 
tred which  desires  his  death.  Between  the  Jewish 
Priest  Samach,  and  the  President,  is  the  Priest  Ehieres, 
who  is  in  earnest  conversation  with  the  Higrh  Priest. 
He  is  saying,  "be  he  innocent  of  tiiis  crime,  yet  shall 
he  die,  because  he  stirs  up  the  people  to  sedition  by  his 
discourses."  They  were  determined  to  crucify  their 
prisoner  at  at  all  events;  and  if  they  could  not  convict 
him  of  one  crime,  they  had  others  ready  to  lay  to  his 
charge. — The  Council  of  the  Jews  but  too  much  resem- 
bled their  President,  Caiphas,  in  sheir  injustice  and  fu- 
ry against  Jesus.  At  the  left  of  the  Priests  are  Aure- 
lius  and  Fabrius,  two  Roman  soldiers.  To  the  right  of 
the  table  already  named,  are  the  three  Marys,  who  lis- 
ten in  grief  to  the  cruel  proceedings  against  their  dear- 
ly beloved  Master. 

To  the  extreme  left  of  Caiphas,  there  is  seen  a  group 
of  great  interest,  both  with  respect  to  the  genius  of  the 
artist,  and  the  part  they  sustain.  The  figures  are  the 
centurion,  who  was  despatched  to  release  Barabba^i,  and 
Birabbas,  who  the  populace  chose  should  be  set  f 


^ 


AMKRICAN   MUSEUM. 


68 


I  they  u- 
ot  pens, 
nown. — 
its  of  the 
f  resent- 
lurround- 
written, 
ig  to  the 
I  laws  un- 
nsvver  of 
0  the  ha- 
e  Jewish 
it  Ehieres, 
rh  Priest, 
yet  shall 
ion  by  his 
cily  their 
ot  convict 
ay  to  his 
ch  resem- 
ce  and  lu- 
re Aure- 
le  right  of 
,  who  lis- 
leir  dear- 

m  a  group 
liusof  the 
s  are  the 
abbas,  and 
set  free^ 


rather  than  Jesus  ;  as  Pilate  had  said,  "ye  have  a  cus- 
tom that  I  should  relea55e  unto  you  one  at  the  passover, 
will  ye  therefore  that  I  release  unto  you  the  King  of 
the  Jews."  "Then  cried  they  all  again,  saying,  not 
this  man  but  Barabbes  ;  now  Barabbas  was  a  robber." 

The  eagerness  of  the  Centurion  to  execute  the  will 
of  the  people,  is  admirably  shown,  as  also  the  emacia- 
ted and  haggard  appearance  of  the  prisoner,  Barabbas, 
who  looks  like  one  having  suffered  imprisonment  and 
become  spirit  broken. 

Directly  before  the  last  mentioned  figures,  are  the 
executioner  and  his  assistant,  who  are  conversing  upon 
the  manner  of  the  punishment  which  is  just  accorded 
to  Jisus;,  that  of  crucifixion.  The  life-like  appearance 
of  these  two  cannot  be  surpassed.  The  assistant  has  in 
one  hand  a  hammer,  holding  a  nail  in  the  other,  as  if 
about  to  strike,  while  he  seems  to  be  asking  directions 
of  his  principal,  who  appears  to  be  hesitating^  and  not 
so  willing  as  usual  to  perform  his  duty.  There  seems 
to  be  some  feeling  of  compassion  in  his  countenance. 
Just  before  them  is  a  box  which  contains  their  tools. 

This  is  a  brief  sketch  of  the  group  on  the  spectators 
right,  which  represents  the  Sanhedrim  or  Jewish  Coun- 
cil, before  which  Christ  was  arraigned  and  condemned 
to  death.  In  this  representation  he  is  placed  just  in 
front  of  the  Scribes'  and  Lawyer's  table  already  noti- 
ced, which  is  about  half  way  between  the  Jewish  and 
Roman  Councils.  Being  in  front  of  the  table  he  is 
thrown  in  advance  of  the  centre,  and  is  therefore  near- 
er the  spectator  than  any  other  figure  therewith  con- 
nected ;  and  by  walking  a  few  paces  to  the  left,  we  ar- 


Il'  I 


ei 


▲  MKRICAN  Ml'toEl'M. 


I*. ., 


ri!,: 


riv5  opposite  that  figure  which  represents  our  Lord, 
the  prisoner,  the  object  of  the  hatred  of  the  Jews.— 
Here  we  see  the  Son  of  God,  the  Prince  of  Peace,  the 
Saviour  of  the  world,  the  Redeemer  of  sinners,  bound 
as  a  criminal,  treated  like  a  culprit,  guarded  by  soldiers, 
arraigned  like  a  felon,  clothed  in  a  purple  robe,  his 
(lands  bound  by  a  leather  thong,  and  a  crown  of  thorns 
upon  his  head,  which  is  seen  has  already  caused  the 
blood  to  flow  from  his  forehead.  The  figure  of  Christ 
is  most  admirable,  and  his  countenance  is  surpassingly 
beautiful  and  heavenly.  The  artist  has  almost  expres- 
sed the  attributes  of  divinity  in  a  human  form.  It  in- 
finitely surpasses  any  thing  ever  before  attempted  in 
wax,  and  periectly  accords  with  the  description  given 
of  our  Saviour. 

Thus  stands  the  Saviour,  bound  and  placed  in  their 
midst,  guarded  by  the  first  Centurion,  Quirilus  Corne- 
lius, who  is  on  the  right  of  the  prisoner,  and  has  charge 
of  him  as  a  criminal,  with  his  eyes  fixed  steadily  upon 
him.  He  exhibits  no  particular  feeliftg  in  the  matter, 
either  for  or  against  Jesus :  but  stands  waiting  patiently 
the  termination  of  the  trial,  when  he  is  ready  to  obey 
orders,  having  hold  of  the  prisoner.  In  the  midst  of 
this  agitated  scene,  and  in  conformity  with  his  nature, 
he  appears  at  once  a  superior  being.  No  anger,  ha- 
tred, or  even  impatience  in  his  expresiion. — 

I  am  the  Redeemer,  for  thee  I  must  die — 
The  cup  is  most  painful,  but  cannot  pass  by. 
Thy  sins  which  are  many,  are  laid  upon  rtie<, 
And  all  this  sore  anguish  I  muffer  for  thee. 

Near  the  prisoner  are  the  two  false  witnesses  who 
testified  at  this  tribunal,  and  said  of  the  Saviour— <«this 


'if 


■s 


AMKllKA.N  >Ili»L:iM. 


65 


ir  Lord, 
Jews. — ' 
•ace,  the 
B,  bound 
soldiers, 
robe,  his 
ofthorns 
used  the 
of  Clirist 
passingly 
it  expres- 
i.     It  in- 
mpted  in 
:>n  given 

in  their 
xs  Corne- 
as charge 
dily  upon 
ic  matter, 
patiently 
to  obey 
midst  of 
is  nature, 
nger,  ha- 


by. 
rafei 

3. 

essea  who 
>ur— *<this 


ftllow  said  1  dill  able  to  destroy  the  temple  of  (Jmd  and 
build  it  in  three  days."  This  was  a  gross  perversion  of 
his  language.  Jesus  said,  "destroy  this  temple,  and  in 
three  days  I  will  raise  it  up ;"  having  reference  to  the 
temple  ol  his  body  and  his  resurrection.  His  language 
was  thus  distorted  so  as  to  involve  him  in  the  crime  of 
speaking  blasphemy  against  the  holy  temple.  Jesus 
maintains  a  dignified  silence  to  these  charges,  which 
excites  the  anger  of  the  High  Priest,  Caiphas,  who, 
contrary  to  law,  imposes  a  solemn  oath  upon  the  pris- 
oner, by  saying  to  him,  "I  adjure  thee  by  the  living 
God,  to  tell  us  whether  thou  be  the  Christ  f  e  Son  of 
God."  This  was  a  gross  infraction  cf  the:r  law,  which 
forbade  that  the  accused  should  criuiina  c  himself. — 
Christ  answers  him — "Thou  hast  said  ;  lieverti.oless  I 
say  unt®  you,  hereafter  shall  ye  see  the  So  ;  of  Man 
sitting  on  the  right  hand  of  power,  anr  ':^oming  in  t'  <» 
clouds  of  heaven" — acknowledging  h  mstlf  to  be  the 
Son  of  God.  The  High  Priest  is  highly  enraged  at  this 
answer,  which  can  be  distinctly  seen,  and  raises  his 
hands  in  affected  horror,  and  says,  "bo  hath  spoken 
blasphemy ;  what  further  need  have  we  of  witnesses. 
Behold  now  ye  have  heard  his  blasphemy."  This  is 
the  interesting  moment  represented  in  this  awful  and 
impious  tribunal.  The  eye  '^f  the  spectator  at  this  mo- 
ment is  cast  upon  Caiphas,  Wiijse  features  are  distorted 
with  rage  against  Jesus.  With  uplifted  hands  and  his 
countenance  depicting  t'le  most  inveterate  anger  and 
revenge,  he  seems  anxious  to  sacrifice  our  Saviour  to 
the  infuriated  Liob.  He  too  much  resembles  the  odious 
portrait  which  the  historian,  Josephus,  has  given  oi 


I 


I 


' 


66 


AMVRICAN  MUSEUM. 


him  ;  who  in  a  most  violent  transport  of  passion,  when 
unable  to  effect  his  guilty  purposes  by  the  testimony 
of  others,  resorts  to  the  most  illegal  method  of  compel- 
ling the  prisoner  to  criminate  himself.  We  are  inform- 
ed in  the  18th  chapter  of  John,  that  this  High  Priest 
declared  before  he  seen  or  heard  Jesus,  that  he  was  de- 
serving of  death,  by  saying  to  his  colleagues  that  it 
was  expedient  that  one  man  should  die  for  all. 

This  same  High  Priest  questions  him  with  regard  to 
his  disciples  and  his  doctrine.  Jesus  answers,  "why 
askest  thou  me  ;  ask  them  which  heard  me  what  I  have 
said  unto  them.  Behold  they  know  what  I  said." — 
And  when  he  had  thus  said,  one  of  the  officers  which 
stood  by  struck  Jesus  with  the  palm  of  his  hand,  say- 
ing, "answerest  thou  the  High  Priest  so."  Jesus  says 
"if  I  have  spoken  evil,  bear  witness  of  the  evil,  but  if 
good,  why  smitest  thou  me."  This  took  place  under 
the  eyes  of  the  whole  Council,  and  as  the  High  Priest 
did  not  restrain  the  author  of  it,  he  became  an  accom- 
plice, especially  when  this  violence  was  committed 
under  the  pretence  of  avenging  the  alledged  affront  to 
his  dignity.  What  a  hideous  picture  is  this  of  the 
Jewish  tribunal,  allowing  sueh  outrages  upon  a  priso- 
ner not  yet  convicted  or  sentenced. 

The  spectator  now  leaves  the  Sanhedrim  or  Jewish 
Council,  and  passes  a  few  paces  to  the  left,  which  brings 
him  opposite  the  second  group.  This  represents  the 
Roman  Council,  before  which  Christ  was  brought  after 
the  Jewish  Council  had  heaped  upon  him  all  the  false 
charges  in  their  power,  and  who  would  have  gladly  put 
to  death  their  innocent  and  grossly  injured  prisoner; 


A>lfiRlCAN  MUSSUM. 


1?  ■* 


sion,  when 
testimony 
of  compel- 
ire  inform- 
igh  Priest 
he  was  de- 
les that  it 
ill. 

1  regard  to 
?rs,  "why 
'hat  I  have 
r  said."— 
ers  which 
hand,  say- 
Jesus  says 
»vil,  but  if 
ace  under 
igh  Priest 
an  accom- 
committed 
affront  to 
lis  of  the 
1  a  prisc- 

or  Jewish 
lich  brings 
esents  the 
)ught  after 
i  the  false 
gladly  put 
prisoner ; 


if 


but  they  dare  not  take  his  life,  for  the  Romans  had  re- 
served the  power  of  life  and  death.  So  soon  as  the 
spectator  arrives  at  this  group,  the  first  thing  which  at- 
tracts his  attention  is  Pontius  Pilate,  the  Governor  of 
Judea.  He  is  seated  on  a  throne  partially  surrounded 
with  a  rich  canopy,  in  keeping  with  his  splendid  dress. 
At  the  feet  oi  Pontius  Pilate  is  Claudia  Procula,  his 
wife,  who  has  thrown  hersell  before  him,  begging  her 
husband  to  have  nothing  to  do  with  that  just  man,  for 
she  had  suffered  many  things  that  da}^  in  a  dream  be- 
cause of  him.  This  advice  from  his  terrified  wife  he 
would  have  taken,  had  he  listened  to  the  voice  of  his 
own  conscience.  11  was  customary  for  the  Roman  of- 
ficers to  be  accompanied  by  their  wives  in  their  cir- 
cuits ;  and  although  the  proper  residence  of  Pilate  was 
Cesserea,  he  was  always  at  Jerusalem  during  the  feast 
of  the  Passover,  when  the  city  was  filled  with  stran- 
gers. Her  wife  was  acquainted  with  the  emergency 
in  which  her  husband  was  placed,  and  the  agitation  of 
her  mind  naturally  caused  her  to  dream  upon  the  exci- 
ting subject.  Common  rumor  had  spread  the  intelli- 
gence of  the  wonderful  character  of  Jesus,  which  now 
mingles  with  her  imaginations  in  sleep,  and  excited 
her  apprehensions  lest  her  husband  would  be  forced  to 
condemn  him  against  his  better  jud^^ment. 

On  the  right  of  Pilate  is  Mesius  Quintus,  a  Roman 
General  attached  to  the  Court  of  Pontius  Pilate.  He 
was  a  distinguished  man,  as  can  be  seen  by  his  dress 
and  his  proximity  to  the  Governor.  Concern,  marked 
emotion  and  almost  a  desire  to  rescue  the  accused,  are 
marked  in  his  face.     H«  is  listening  intently  to  the  an- 


I, 


s- 


] 


Iii'i!" 


66 


A:.ri;R iLA.\  Misia M. 


swer  our  Lord  makes  to  Caiphas,  President  of  the  San- 
hedrim, declaring  himself  the  Messiah  ;  and  although 
he  did  not  believe  the  prisoner  to  be  the  Son  of  God, 
yet  he  was  anxious  that  full  justice  should  be  done  him. 
He  says,  "is  there  none  in  the  whole  city  to  defend  an 
innocent  man  ;.  if  he  be  right  let  us  go  to  him,  if  he  be 
wrong  let  us  banish  him  from  us."  So  it  appears  that 
Mesius  Quintus  was  in  favor  of  preserving  his  life,  e- 
ven  if  guilty,  and  punishing  him  with  banishment  on- 
ly. On  the  left  of  Pilatfj  is  Subires,  one  of  his  Gener- 
als, who  appears  in  earnest  conversation  with  him. 

Near  the  Governor  is  seated  Joramus,  one  of  the  Ro- 
man disrnitaries,  who  belonojed  to  the  court  of  Pontius 
Pilate.  He  is  evidently  very  anxious  and  his  sympa- 
thies are  with  Christ.  His  brow  is  knit  and  his  whole 
face  shows  anxiety  for  the  fate  of  Jesus.  He  appears 
astonished  too,  that  the  prisoner,  after  having  so  long 
remained  silent  should  declare  to  Caiphas  that  he  should 
see  the  Son  of  Man  sitting  at  the  right  hand  of  power, 
and  coming  in  the  clouds  of  Heaven.  The  surprise 
and  astonishment  of  Joramus  at  these  words,  are  not 
confined  to  him  alone ;  they  will  be  seen  to  pervade 
the  whole  group,  except  perhaps  the  centurions.  He 
feels  that  Christ  is  unjustly  accused  and  exclaims,  "why 
should  we  suffer  this  man,  being  innocent  to  be  con- 
demned." He  sees  that  the  charges  aojainst  the  Saviour 
are  not  sustained,  and  says,  "this  man  is  not  proved 
guilty  of  any  crime,  wherefore  should  we  keep  him 
bound."  At  the  left  of  our  Saviour  is  seated  Simeon* 
dus,  one  of  Pilate's  Council.  He  is  looking  very  ear- 
nestly and  partakes  of  the  feeling  of  Joramus,   who  if 


AltfERlCAN  MtrjiEtM. 


69 


)f  the  San- 
i  althouorh 
n  of  God, 
done  him. 
defend  an 
n,  if  he  be 
•pears  that 
is  life,  e- 
hment  on- 
(lis  Gener- 
h  him. 
of  the  Ro- 
of Pontius 
is  sympa- 
his  whole 
[e  appears 
g  so  long 
he  should 
of  power, 
surprise 
are  not 
pervade 
ions.  He 
ms,  "why 
be  con- 
le  Saviour 
)t  proved 
keep  him 
Simeon- 
N'ery  ear- 
who  if 


standing  close  by,  which  is,  that  Christ  is  unjustly  ac- 
cused, and  his  sympathies  are  with  him. 

Zoradius,  Achius  and  Marcellus  are  Roman  Guards, 
standing  in  the  same  group.  The  same  indifference  of 
expression  with  regard  to  th?  result  ot  the  trial,  may 
be  seen  in  their  faces,  as  is  denoted  in  that  of  the  firit 
centurion,  Quirilus  Cornelius,  who  has  already  been  no- 
ticed as  holding  Christ.  Their  countenances  indicate 
no  malice  or  anger,  neither  do  they  exhibit  any  sym- 
pathy for  the  prisoner.  They  look  upon  the  proceed- 
ings w^ith  apathy,  and  stand  ready  to  execute  the  orders 
ot  their  Governor,  and  lead  our  Saviour  to  the  place  of 
crucifixion  without  the  least  emotion  of  sorrow.  Such 
are  evidently  the  obdurate  hearts  these  Roman  guards 
and  centurions  possessed. 

The  spectator  after  viewing  the  position  and  counte- 
nances of  the  members  of  this  Council,  his  attention  is 
aorain  drawn  to  the  Governor.  His  countenance  is  dig- 
nified,  but  his  feelings  are  violently  agitated  on  this 
trying  occasion.  The  emotions  of  his  soul  he  tries  hard 
to  suppress.  He  is  anxious  for  the  fate  of  Christ,  and 
would  have  released  him  had  he  listened  to  the  dictates 
of  his  own  conscience';  for  he  was  perfectly  satisfied 
of  his  innocence,  as  all  his  declarations  prove.  When 
the  Saviour  was  first  presented  to  him  and  accused,  he 
questioned  him  and  the  witnesses  closely ;  and  after  a 
thorough,  searching  investigation  of  his  case,  finds  no 
fault  in  him.  He  asks,  "what  evil  hath  he  done  ;"  and 
they  cried  out  the  more,  saying,  "let  him  be  crucified." 
When  Pilate  saw  that  he  could  prevail  nothing,  but 
that  rather  a  tumult  was  made,  he  took  water  and  wj^sh- 


% 


i- 


^  Ml 


70 


AMERICAN  ML'SfiCM. 


If, 


W 


y 


ed  his  hands  before  the  multitude,  saying,  "I  am  inno- 
cent of  the  blood  of  this  just  person  ;  see  ye  to  it." — 
They  answered,  "his  blood  be  on  us  and  our  children." 
What  an  awful  imprecation  !  and  how  fearfully  fulfil- 
led in  the  seige  and  destruction  of  Jerusalem  ;  when 
1100,000  Jews  were  sacrificed  ;  and  among  them,  no 
doubt  were  some  of  the  same  individuals  who  were  pre- 
sent at  the  trial  of  our  Saviour,  as  it  occurred  in  the 
year  70,  about  36  years  after  the  crucifixion  ;  and  suf- 
fered the  same  death  they  were  so  eager  to  infiict  upon 
our  Lord*  It  does  not  appear  that  Pilate  was  malig- 
nant. We  see  the  efforts  he  made  to  save  Jesus.  But 
he  was  a  public  officer  ;  he  was  intimidated  by  the  out- 
cry which  the  Jews  had  raised  against  him ;  calling  in 
question  his  fidelity  to  the  Emperor  of  Rome,  under 
whom  he  held  office  ;  and  for  fear  of  a  dismissal  from 
office,  he  disregarded  the  voice  of  his  own  conscience 
and  the  entreaty  of  his  own  wife,  yielded  to  the  Jews, 
gave  them  a  warrant  for  the  execution,  and  thus  sacri- 
ficed his  innocent  prisoner  to  an  infuriated  mob,  which 
innocent  prisoner  he  at  every  hazard  was  bound  to  pro- 
tect. How  affecting  is  the  condition  of  the  prisoner  ; 
he  is  the  object  of  bitter  hatred  and  the  victim  of  mer- 
ciless cruelty.  His  judges  are  controlled  by  the  worst 
passions  of  the  human  heart.  When  reviled  he  revilta 
not  again  ;  he  alone  is  calm  and  meekly  submits  ;  while 
he  has  all  the  power,  and  could  instantly  call  legions 
of  angels  to  his  aid,  he  allows  his  foes  to  execute  their 
unholy  purposes,  that  he  may  give  to  the  world  an  ex- 
ample of  patience  under  wrongs,  and  offer  himself  a 
ransom  for  the  sinp  of  man,  and  lead  a  guilty  world  td 


AMERICAN   MU?EI:M. 


71 


am  inno- 
to  it."— 
hildren." 
illy  fulfil- 
n ;  when 
them,  no 
werepre- 
d   in  the 

and  8uf- 
flict  upon 
as  malig- 
sus.  But 
V  the  out- 
calling  in 
le,  under 
isal  from 
}nscience 
he  Jews, 
lus  sacri- 
)b,  which 
id  to  pro- 
prisoner  ; 
1  of  mer- 

he  worst 
le  reviles 
;s ;  while 

legions 
ite  their 
Id  an  ex- 

imself  a 
kTorld  to 


love  and  worship  the  Father.  He  illuminates  the  be- 
nighted mind  with  the  splendors  of  truth  ;  he  converts 
the  habitations  of  woe  into  palaces  of  peace  and  praise. 
How  truly  then,  is  he  worthy  of  the  love  and  honor 
of  all  hearts,  and  the  unceasing  gratitude  of  a  redeem- 
ed world  !  He  is  despised  that  we  may  be  loved  ;  he 
is  rejected  that  we  may  be  accepted ;  he  is  condemned 
that  we  may  be  justified;  he  dies  that  we  may  live; 
he  found  no  comfort  any  where  that  we  may  be  filled 
with  all  comfort ;  he  is  made  a  curse  that  we  may  be 
blessed ;  he  is  led  out  of  the  city  that  we  may  be  brought 
unto  the  heavenly  kingdom. 

There  is  no  feeling  in  the  spectator's  heart  of  deep- 
er, holier  sympathy,  than  that  awakened  by  the  con- 
templation of  the  sufferings,  persecution  and  death  of 
our  blessed  Saviour.  Our  very  horror  and  detestation 
of  the  cruel  authors  of  his  doom,  is  lost  in  the  admira- 
tion excited  by  the  patience  and  humility  with  which 
he  endured  their  cruelty.  He  is  derided  and  insulted, 
and  every  artifice  is  resorted  to,  to  extort  one  sign  of 
human  passion.  He  who  could  command  the  powers 
of  heaven  to  his  aid,  submits  with  meekness,  that  the 
word  may  be  fulfilled  ;  and  to  the  last,  under  the  agony 
of  a  death  most  painful,  still  on  his  lips  lingers  the 
prayer,  "Father  forgive  them,  they  know  not  what 
they  do.  If  then,  the  mere  mental  picture  recorded 
in  the  sacred  volume  excites  such  lively  emotions  in 
the  heart,  how  vividly  must  they  glow  when  gazing 
on  the  almost  breaking  reality !  What  a  great  moral 
lesson  is  written  in  the  meekness  of  that  face  of  super- 
human beau<y  I     There  is  nothing  on  profane  record 


'•  V. 


r 


■I; 


:. 


% 


rz 


AitElllCAN'  MUSEfM* 


m 


can  compare  ^vlth  this,  the  most  enduring  Buffering  of 
the  martyr  of  any  age.  There  is  no  pride  of  heart  in 
sustaining  pain,  but  it  is  the  holiness  of  the  living  God 
breathing  in  his  Son. 

O  let  us  to  that  Saviour  fly, 

Whose  arm  alone  can  savo  ; 
Then  shall  our  hopes  ascend  on  high, 

And  triumph  o^er  the  grate. 

On  the  table  around  which  the  Scribes  are  seated^ 
the  spectator  can  see  among  the  parchment,  a  copy  of 
the  sentence  rendered  by  Pilate  against  the  prisoner  : 
which  sentence  was  originally  engraved  on  copper- 
plate. On  one  side  is  written  these  words  :  "*^  simi- 
lar plate  is  se)vt  to  each  tribe^'^  and  on  the  other  side 
are  the  following  words  : 

DEATH-WARRANT  OF  JESUS. 

Seiitence  rendered  by  Pontius  Pilate^  acting  Governor 
of  Lower  Galilee^  stating  that  Jesus  of  jYazareth 
shall  suffer  death  on  the  Cross>, 

In  the  year  seventeen  of  the  l!lmpire  of  Tiberius  Ctr** 
sar,  and  the  25  day  of  Marck,  in  the  city  of  holy  Jeru- 
salem, Anna  and  Caephus  being  Priests  and  sacrifica-- 
tors  of  the  people  of  God,  Pontius  Pilate  Governor  of 
Lower  Galilee,  sitting  in  the  Presidential  Chair  of  Pre* 
tory,  condemns  Jesus  to  die  on  the  Cross,  between  two 
thieves;  the  great  and  notorious  evidence  of  the  peo- 
ple saying : — 1  Jesus  is  a  seducer  ;  2  he  is  seditious  j 
3  he  is  an  enemy  of  the  law  ;  4  he  calls  himself  false* 
ly  the  King  of  Israel  5  he  entered  into  the  Temple 
followed  by  a  multitude  bearing  palm  branches  in  their 
hands.  Order  the  first.  Centurion  Quirilus  Cornelius 
to  lead  him  to  the  place  of  execution.  Forbade  any 
persons  whomsoever  cither  poor  or  rich,  to  oppose  the 
death  of  Jesus. 


■f 

-.'1 


Ferlng  of 
heart  in 
ving  God 


re  seated) 
a  copy  of 
prisoner  : 

n  copper- 
«*^  simi" 

other  side 


Governot 
jYazareth 

iberius  Ctp«* 
lioly  Jeru- 
l  sacrifica** 
overnor  of 
lairofPre* 
itween  two 
Df  the  peo- 
seditious  •> 
self  false* 
e  Temple 
es  in  their 
Corneliur< 
rbade  any 
oppose  the 


!!A!.L    OF  RECORD?. 


'/I 


The  witnessses  who  siijncd  thp  condcinnation,  are  as 
follows  :  1  Daniel  Robani,  a  Pharisee  ;  2  Joannes  Zo- 
robatal ;  3  Raphael  Romani  ;  4  Capet,  a  citizen.  Jesus 
shall  go  out  of  the  city  of  Jerusalem  by  the  gate  of 
St  ru  en  us. 

The  above  sentence,  as  before  stated,  is  engraved  on 
a  copper  plate.  It  was  found  in  an  antique  vase  of  white 
marble,  while  excavating  in  the  ancient  city  of  Aquila, 
in  the  kingdom  of  Naples,  in  the  year  1280,  and  was 
discovered  by  the  Commisaries  of  Arts,  attached  to  the 
French  armies  at  the  expedition  of  Naplc^\  It  was 
found  enclosed  in  a  box  of  ebony,  in  the  Sacrist}^  of 
Chartrem^  The  vase  is  in  the  chapel  of  Caseira.  The 
French  translation  was  made  by  the  members  of  the 
Commission  of  Arts.  The  original  is  in  the  Hebrew 
language.  The  Chartrem  earnestly  requested  that  the 
plate  should  not  be  taken  away  from  them.  The  re^ 
quest  was  granted  as  a  reward  for  the  sacrifice  they  had 
made  for  the  armv.  M.  Demon  one  of  the  Savans, 
caused  a  plate  to  be  made  of  the  same  model,  on  which 
he  had  ena-raved  the  above  sentence.  At  the  sale  of 
his  collection  of  antiquities,  &c.,  it  was  bought  by  Lord 
Howard  for  2,890  francs. 

The  next  object  worthy  of  notice  in  this  city,  is  the 
Hall  of  Records  or  Register's  Office,  situated  on  Cha- 
tham street,  east  side  of  the  Park,  a  few  yards  east  of 
the  City  Hall.  It  is  appropriated  for  city  and  county 
is  one  of  the  most  chaste  specimens  of 
if  which  this  irreat 


purposes,  a 
architectun 


ity 


80  feet  deep,  62  feet  in  width  and  4S  feet  in  height, 
with  two  porticos,  one  at  each  end,  which  are  support- 
ed by  six  marble  column^,  each  from  the  great  quarries 


\i 


% 


i 


« 


■!i:  i! 


H 


HFFliCT^  UF  SILAW, 


ofSingsIng.  The  walls  of  the  building,  which  are  of 
stone,  are  stuccoed  on  the  exterior  in  imitation  of  mar- 
ble. The  style  is  Grecian,  the  model  being  that  of  the 
Temple  of  Ephesus.  It  unites  strength  to  beauty  and 
simplicity.  The  building  is  entirely  fire-proof,  the 
floors  being  supported  by  arches  of  stone.  It  contains 
the  offices  of  the  Register  of  Deeds,  the  City  Comp- 
troller, Surrogate,  Collector  of  Assessments,  &c. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

Effects  of  Steam — Cook  Bindery — Arsenal — Trinity  Charcli — 
Grace  Church — Broadway  Tabernacle — Croton  Water-work* 
— Coaches — Brooklyn — Atlantic  Dock — Greenwood  Cemete- 
ry— East  River. 

While  visiting  the  various  portions  of  the  city  of 
New  York,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  wonders 
of  Steam,  which  is  here  substituted  for  human  exertion. 
It  is  here  that  it  relieves  man  from  the  greater  portion 
of  physical  toil,  under  which  he  with  the  rest  of  his 
fellow-men  has  groaned  ;  it  is  here  that  steam  is  chang- 
ing everything,  and  everything  for  the  better  ;  it  is 
hero  arming  man  with  a  power  that  is  irresistible,  and 
al  the  same  time  the  most  pliant — one  which  can  up- 
root a  mountain,  and  yet  be  controlled  by  a  child  ;  it 
here  imparts  motion  to  a  large  portion  of  the  arts. — 
Here  its  effects  can  be  seen  on  the  one  hand,  by  spin- 
ning and  weaving  threads  as  fine  as  those  of  the  gossa- 
nipr,  and  for-i:in3;  tons  of  iron  into  sinofle  bars  with  al- 
most  eq\ial  rapidily  and  ca>e  ;  while  on  the  other  Innd 


M 


M 


:i 


KPfnctS  OF  51KA>t. 


[\  are  of 
1  of  mar- 
latofthc 
auty  and 
roof,  the? 
contains 
f  Comp- 
tc. 


jT  Charcli — 
Vater-work» 
►od  Cemete- 


le    city  of 
le  wonders 
exertion, 
er  portion 
est   of  his 
is  chang- 
Itter  ;    it  is 
stible,  and 
h  can  up- 
child;   it 
he    arts. — 
|d,  by  spin- 
the  gossa- 
s  with  al- 
oiher  hiiul 


tire  ae»n  scores  and  hundreds  of  steamers,  urged  through 
the  watery  element,  with  the  velocity  of  wind,  in  spite 
of  the  raging  tempest  and  rolling  waves.  It  is  here 
connected  on  every  hand  with  the  manufacturing  of  pa* 
pet  and  with  the  printing  press,  and  is  perhaps  doing 
more  to  rouse  and  exercise  the  moral  and  intellectual 
energies  of  our  nature,  than  any  other  city  on  the  globe. 
What  a  proof  is  steam  of  the  high  destiny  that  awaits 
our  species!  The  most  fervid  imagination  cannoi-  re- 
alize the  importance  of  those  discoveries  in  science  and 
the  arts,  of  which  it  is  merely  the  forerunner.  The 
first  is  that  new  catalqi^ue  of  agents  that  are  oitlained 
to  change  the  condition  of  men,  and  to  regenerate  the 
earth  ;  for  all  that  is  yet  done  is  but  as  the  twilight  that 
ushers  in  the  orb  of  day.  Hitherto  man  has  been  com- 
paratively asleep,  or  in  a  state  resembling  it,  insensible 
of  the  rich  inheritance  which  the  Creator  has  placed 
at  his  disposal,  in  the  elastic  fluids,  and  of  their  adap- 
tation to  impart  motion  to  every  species  of  mechanism. 
How  few  persons  are  aware  that  the  grand  inrention 
of  imparting  motion  to  a  piston  by  steam,  is  the  pivot 
on  which  the  chief  affairs  of  this  world  is  destined  here- 
after to  turn  ;  and  by  the  noble  progress  of. the  sciences, 
the  time  is  not  distant  when  by  means  of  it  the  latent 
energy  of  the  gasses,  or  other  properties  oi  inert  mat- 
ter, will  supersede  in  a  great  degree,  the  drudgery  of 
man ;  will  perform  nearly  all  the  labor  which  the  bones 
and  sinews  of  our  species  have  hitherto  been  doomed 
to  accomplish.  There  are  persons  however,  with  minds 
biassed  by  the  eternal  bondage  in  which  the  mass  of 
our  race  has  always  been  held,  who  will  startle  at  the 


'III 

r 


I 


a;t 


•^6 


BOOIC-DINDERV 


pU 


Vr    I 


idea  of  their  becomirij^  an  intt'lligorit  and  hi^^hly  Intel 
lectual  body.  They  cannot  conceive  how  the  affairs 
of  life  are  to  be  continued,  the  execution  ot  innumera- 
ble works  which  the  constitution  of  society  requires, 
should  be  pLM'formcd,  if  these  helots  become  free.  But 
can  they,  can  any  one  seriously  believe  that  the  all- 
wise  and  benevolent  Creator  could  possibly  have  in- 
tended, that  the  highest  class  of  beings  which  he  has 
placed  on  this  planet  ;  the  one  capable  of  appreciating 
his  works,  and  realising  correct  Ideas  of  bis  attributes  ; 
that  the  great  portion  of  these  should  pass  through  life, 
in  incessantly  toiling  for  mere  food,  and  undergoing 
privations  and  sufferings  to  attain  it,  from  which  the 
lowest  animals  are  exempt  ?  Assuredly  not.  Had 
that  been  his  design,  he  would  not  have  created  them 
with  faculties  expressly  adapted  for  nobler  pursuits. 

Among  the  many  things  of  the  city  worthy  of  notice, 
is  Mr.  Walker's  Book-bindery,  in  whose  employ  are  a 
number  of  persons,  and  among  them  about  fifty  females 
whose  weekly  earnings  vary  from  $2,50  to  $7,50,  who 
are  principally  employed  in  folding  and  sewing  sheets. 
The  folder  sits  before  a  table,  on  which  she  spreads  out 
the  sheets  in  succession  ;  in  her  right  hands  she  holds 
a  small  ivory  folding-knife,  with  which  she  flattens  the 
folds  of  the  sheets  ;  which  is  a  process  requiring  con- 
siderable accuracy,  so  as  to  make  the  lop  and  bottom 
lines  of  the  print  range.  The  sewer  is  seated  some- 
what obliquely  at  a  little  machine,  called  the  sewing- 
press;  which  consists  of  a  flat  table,  from  which  rise 
iyvo  end-bars,  connected  at  the  top  b}*-  a  cross-bflr.— 
Three  or  more  strinirs,  according  to  the  size  of  the  book. 


s; 


\y  Intel-* 
e   affairs 
inumera- 
rcqini'es, 
ree.    But 
the  all- 
bave    in- 
h    he  has 
jreciatinfij 
ittributes  ; 
rough  life, 
ndergoiiig 
ivhich  the 
not.     Had 
ated  them 
pursuits. 
r  of  notice, 
ploy  are  a 
fty  females 
;7,50,who 
ing  sheets, 
preads  out 
she   holds 
flattens  the 
liring  con- 
nd  bottom 
ited  some- 
le  sewing- 
which  rise 
ross-bflr.— 
)f  the  book. 


TiOOK-lllNDKUV. 


i  i 


are  fastened  by  loops  to  the  croos-bar,  and  are  tighten- 
ed down  by  a  simple  contrivance  at  the  bottom.  The 
sewer  has  her  left  arm  passed  round  the  left  vertical 
bar;  and  proceeds  to  sew  the  various  sheets  to  the  bands 
or  strings,  her  left  hand  being  behind  the  strings,  bear- 
in":  down  the  lu\if  of  each  successive  sheet  as  sLe 
spreads  it  Hat  on  the  sewing-press,  with  the  back  edge 
in  contact  with  the  strings,  in  which  position  it  is  held 
and  the  middle  fastened  to  the  strings  by  passing  a 
threaded  needle  backward  and  forward  through  the 
centre  fold  of  the  sheet,  each  thread  after  passing  from 
the  inside  to  the  out,  being  made  to  loop  or  twist  round 
one  of  the  strings,  before  entering  the  sheet  again.  As 
soon  as  one  sheet  is  fastened,  another  is  laid  down  and 
fastened  in  a  similar  manner.  A  curious  kind  of  stitch 
called  'kettle  stitch,'  is  made  near  the  top  and  bottom 
of  each  book,  as  a  means  of  allowing  the  thread  to  pass 
from  one  sheet  to  another.  There  are  many  other  pro- 
cesses in  a  book-bindery  worthy  of  notice.  The  great 
variety  of  patterns  to  book  covers  is  given  by  a  cylin- 
der machine,  with  heated  rollers  having  the  various 
patters  engraved  on  them,  under  which  the  covers  pass, 
after  which  they  are  fastened  on  the  sewed  sheets,  in 
various  ways,  owing  to  the  style  of  binding.  A  strip 
of  iron  is  then  inserted  between  the  bookand  the  back, 
which  keeps  the  sheets  all  square,  when  it  is  placed  in 
a  cutting  machine,  which  cuts  the  edges  smooth  and 
square.  In  the  extra  finishing  shop  it  receives  its  various 
devices.  It  is  first  coated  with  size,  then  two  or  three 
times  with  white  of  egg,  after  which  it  is  slightly  touch- 
ed with  a  piece  of  oil  cotton  v.'hen  the  gold  is  laid  on, 


hi, 


[ 


I'.  '' 


i 


I 


ii 


Vi 


I 


t-nl 


ir 


78 


ITATU  An?U'\AT. — TRINITT  CllVHCU,  kC. 


The  State  Arsenal,  opon  every  day  to  citizens  and 
sti'an'Trrs,  is  situated  on  tlic  corner  o(  Centre  and  Frank- 
lin streets,  and  well  worth  a  \isiit.  Tfio  trophy  room 
contains  many  interestin;^o!j(»cts  talv(Mi  during  the  wars. 

Trinity  Churrh,  in  Hroadway,  oj)posito  Wall  street, 
is  a  very  elegant  structure,  built  entirely  of  sand  stone. 
Tower  and  spire  283  feet  hi^^h.  The  Orjjan  is  of  the 
very  largest  class,  weighs  4<0  tons,  and  cost  $10,000. 
The  church  is  the  higheht  and  most  splendid  in  the 
State  of  New  York.  It  is  open  daily  for  public  rcli- 
gfious  services,  ami  cost,  including  furniture  and  all  oth- 
er expenses  except  the  clock,  the  sum  of  $3()S,629  64. 

Grace  Church,  in  Broadway,  above  Tenth  street,  is 
a  splendid  edifice  of  white  marble,  which  cost  the  sum 
of  $l4'r),OvOO.  Here  is  to  be  seen  the  Monument  erect- 
ed by  order  of  Congress,  to  the  memory  of  the  noble 
and  daring  General  IVlontgomery,  who  fell  in  the  as- 
sault upon  Quebec  dm'ing  the  revolutionary  war  ;  his 
bones  being  removed  from  Quebec  in  the  year  1818, 
and  deposited  beneath  this  monument,  which  bears  ap- 
propriate inscriptions.  Among  the  many  tombs  and 
monuments  in  the  church  yard,  can  be  seen  a  very  tall 
but  slender  obelisk,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  cele- 
brated Emmet,  of  Ireland. 

Broadway  Tabernacle,  in  Broadwav,  above  Antho- 
ny street,  erected  in  1836,  is  100  feet  square,  and  is 
capable  ot  seating  comfortably,  2500  persons,  being  the 
most  spacious  building  of  the  kind  in  the  city.  It  is 
frequently  let  for  public  meetings,  lectures  and  con- 
certs, the  rent  money  being  applied  to  the  discharge  of 
the  mortgage  on  the  building,  which  w;is  purchased  in, 


i 


WAlER-WORk* COACHES. 


izens  and 
i\d  Frank- 
phy  room 
T  tho  wars, 
/"all  street, 
sand  stone. 
I   is  of  the 
$10,000. 
id    in    the 
ublic  reli- 
md  alloth- 
;iS,629  64. 
h  street,  is 
Dst  the  sum 
nent  erect- 
the   noble 
n   the   as- 
war  ;  his 
rear  1818, 
1  bears  ap- 
tombs  and 
a  very  tall 
)f  the  cele- 

)ve  Antho- 
re,  and  is 
s,  being  the 
ity.  It  is 
and  con- 
ischarge  of 
urchased  in, 


4 


1840  by  tho 


Ih 


;re 


7^ 


Th« 


society  now  worsnippin^ 
churches  named  are  the  most  conspicuous  ones  in  the 
city  ;  there  are,  however,  193  other  large,  fine  and 
splendid  churches  in  this  metropolis. 

The  Croton  Water-warks  is  one  of  the  mokt  magnifi- 
cent enterprises  of  the  age.  The  aqueduct  of  thit 
mighty  work  is  built  of  stone,  and  commences  5  miles 
from  the  Hudson  river,  at  a  dam  built  over  the  Croton 
river,  a  distance  of  40  miles  from  the  city.  The  wa- 
ter crosses  Harlem  bridge,  in  an  iron  pipe  laid  as  an 
inverted  syphon,  A  massive  structure  is  however 
nearly  completed  over  the  river,  called  the  High  bridge, 
over  which  the  water  will  be  permanently  conveyed. 
The  bridge  is  1450  feet  long  and  114  feet  high,  and 
will  cost  the  sum  of  $900,000.  The  receiving  reser- 
voir, at  86th  stjeet,  38  miles  from  the  Croton  dam, 
covers  35  acres  of  ground,  and  contains  150,000,000 
gallons.  The  distributing  reservoir,  at  40th street,  about 
3  miles  from  the  City  Hall,  encloses  an  area  of  4  acres 
and  contains  20,000,000  gallons.  From  this  reservoir 
the  water  is  distributed  through  the  city  in  150  milei 
of  iron  pipes.  The  cost  of  the  whole,  by  the  time  th« 
new  bridge  is  completed  and  the  pipes  laid  thereon, 
will  exceed  the  sum  of  $13,000,000.  The  cheapest 
conveyance  to  the  reservoirs  is  by  the  cars  of  the  Har- 
lem Railroad,  which  leave  the  depot  in  Centre  street, 
every  15  minutes  during  the  day.  Fare  12i  centi 
each  passenger. 

Hackney  Coach  and  Cab  fares  are  most  unfortunate- 
ly influenced  by  the  distance  and  number  of  passengers. 
In  this  particular,  New  York  has  Ih^ 


! 


„  ^ 


so 


BIlOOKLVN. 


I 


i! 


:i-i  i 


11 


W''^\ 


ments  of  any  ckty  ia  the  Middle  and  Eastern  States, 
whose  cities  regulate  by  law,  the  fares  of  the  different 
carriages  belonging  to  their  respective  cittes.  In  this 
great  metropolis,  however,  numerous  as  they  are,  they 
are  allowed  to  charge  what  they  please,  which  is  gen- 
erally pretty  heavy,  and  demanded  of  the  passenger 
with  a  very  good  grace.  There  are  no  less  than  427 
licensed  hacks  and  cabs^  327  omnibusses,  who  are  thun- 
dering over  the  streets  from  daylight  till  IQ  o'clock  at 
night,  in  addition  to  which  there  are  3033  licensed 
drays»  Each  drayman  is  required  to  own  a  horse  arwJ 
cart.  After  visiting  the  principal  objects  of  attraction 
in  the  city,  a  beautiful  ferry-boat  carried  us  over  East 
river  to  Long  Island,  landing  us  on  the  pier  of  another 
city. 

Brooklyn,  with  a  population  of  59,558,  is  beautifully 
situated  at  the  west  end  of  Long  Island,  on  command- 
ing ground,  just  opposite  the  city  of  New  York,  This 
city  holds  the  second  class  in  population  in  the  State, 
is  handsomely  and  regularly  laid  out  and  contains  sev- 
eral beautiful  buildings.  The  Heights,  a  precipitous 
bank  on  East  river,  afford  a  very  delightful  view  of  the 
city  and  harbour  of  New  York,  Inhere  is  in  this  place 
a  City  Hall  in  process  of  construction,  which,  when 
completed,  will  be  a  grand  ornament  to  the  city.  The 
United  States  Navy  Yard,  on  Walabout  Bay,  covering 
about  40  acres  of  ground,  contains  many  objects  of  in- 
terest. Here  a  large  and  splendid  Dry  Dock  has  been 
constructed,  ofvery  beautiful  stone,  at  a  cost  of  §1,000,- 
000.  The  Marine  Hospital  is  a  very  large  and  beauti- 
ful building,  having  about  33  acres  of  ground  attached^ 


*'i» 


ATLANTIC   I;(H'K-. 


81 


1  States^ 
different 

In  this 
are,  they 
h  is  gen- 
.^assenger 
han  427 
are  thun- 
'clock  at 

licensed 
lorse  and 
ittraction 
)ver  East 
f  another 

pautifully 
ommand- 
•k.  This 
le  State, 
ains  sev- 
-ecipitous 
ewof  the 
his  place 
when 
ty.    The 


h 


coverincr 
cts  of  in- 
has  been 
§1,000,. 
d  beauti- 
attached^ 


which  is  highly  and  skilAilly  cullivatt'd  in  the  various 
plants  suited  to  the  climate. 

The  Atlantic  Dock,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
city,  where  can  be  seen  ships  of  the  very  largest  class 
crowded  together,  with  their  towering  masts,  which, 
when  viewedfromthe  tower  of  some  ofthe  commodiou* 
warehouses  built  on  the  piers,  have  a  most  imposing  aj)- 
pearance.  The  dock  with  the  piers  and  warehouses  cost 
$625,000.  Greenwood  Cemetery,  about  2  miles  frcm 
the  city,  covers  an  area  of  200  acres,  possesses  eminent 
natural  beauties,  and  is  richly  worth  the  trouble  and  ex- 
pense of  visiting  it.  It  is  perhaps  the  most  beautiful,  neat- 
ly laid  out  and  tastefully  ornamented  with  shade  trees 
and  flowers  of  any  cemetery  in  this  or  any  other  State. 
The  city  contains  30  very  large  and  beautiful  churchcsj 
among  which  is  the  elegant  and  superb  structure  callttl 
Holy  Trinity,  the  most  magnificent  edifice  in  the  city. 
A  large  number  of  steam  ferry-boats  connect  the  city 
with  New  York,  by  running  across  East  river  continual- 
ly during  the  day  and  night  with  little  intermission. 

This  city  is  well  situated  for  trade  and  partakes  largely 
in  the  commercial  activity  and  prosperit}^  of  its  neigh- 
bor, being  washed  on  its  northern  bank  by  the  waters  of 
East  river,  and  on  its  southern  bank  by  the  Atlantic  d^ 
cean,  while  a  railroad  extends  from  the  city  to  Green- 
port,  96  miles,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  Long  Island, 
which  forms  a  portion  of  the  nearest  route  to  the  city  ot 
Boston.  After  remaining  in  Brooklyn  a  few  hours,  I  a- 
gain  crossed  East  river  for  the  city  of  New  York,  while 
the  right  and  left  of  the  ferry  presented  all  the  charm:- 
that  a  great  forest  of  ship  masts  could  possess, 


1^ 

i 


m 


i  -i 


i 


.* 


8-2 


DiirAHT:  ni: — cuMi'irrrnox  ox  Trip,  hiu^o.v. 


CHAPTER    \'  I  I  r  . 


Departure — Competition  on  the  Iliulson — Tarry  town — Sleepy 
Hollow — Sing  riing — State  Prison — Palis ules — »Stony  Point 
—  Ilidtorical  Sketch — Mountain  Peaks — Forts  ('linton  and 
INIuntgoniery — West  Point — iMilitary  Acacieniy — Halls  aid 
]3uilclino-s — Fortilications — Deliijlitful  Location  —  Monument 
of  Kosciusko — Mountain  Peaks — Newburg — Towns — Hudson 
city — Shipping — Athens — Catskill — Catskill  Mountain — Ho- 
tel— Prospect. 

I  now  felt  a  desire  to  leave  the  noise  and  uproar  of 
New  York  atid  those  minti;led  masses  who  crowded  her 
streets,  and  seek  the  pure  air  of  the  country,  and  her 
exceedingly  beautiful  ucener}'^,  which  I  flattered  myself 
would  have  a  better  effect  in  recruiting  my  health. — 
For  this  purpose  I  detennined  to  go  froni  this  city 
north,  by  sailing  up  the  Hudson,  and  halting  at  some 
of  the  principal  places  of  interest,  on  the  banks  of  that 
noble  river,  until  I  would  get  as  far  north  as  the  city 
of  Troy,  a  distance  of  156  miles  from  the  city  of  New 
York  ;  and  after  some  perambulati6ns  in  the  vicinities 
of  the  cities  of  Albany  and  Troy,  travel  west  to  the 
Falls  of  Niagara.  For  this  purpose  I  left  my  kind  host 
of  the  Croton  Hotel,  in  Broadway,  and  repaired  to  the 
wharf  at  the  lOot  of  Cortland  Street  ;  and  on  my  arri- 
val was  surprised  to  find  that  I  could  get  passage  on 
board  a  steamer  for  nothing,  owing  to  the  great  oppo- 
sition on  the  river ;  where  one  company  would  take  a 
passenger  on  board  their  boat  for  no  fee  whatever,  be- 
fore they  would  suffer  him  to  take  passage  on  board  a 
boat  belonging  to  their  opponents,  which   is   a   course 


l\. 


i  ARRYTOWN &LEi:rV  HOLLOW — blNO  9I^<T. 


83 


II — Sleepy 
ony  Point 
intoii  and 
Halls  ai  d 
Monuinetit 
5 — Hudson 
itain — Ho- 


uproar  ol 
wdcd  her 

luid  her 
ed  myself 
[lealth.— 
this   city 

at  some 
ks  of  that 

the  city 
r  of  New 
vicinities 
ist  to  the 

kind  host 
•ed  to  the 

my  arri- 
assage  on 

at  oppo- 
ald  take  a 
tever,  be- 
1  board  a 

a   course 


pursued  by  one  company  for  the  purpose  of  breaking 
up  the  other.  The  wharf  was  so  crowded  with  run- 
ners, who  are  oniplo3'ed  by  the  respective  agents  of 
companies,  where  the  passenger  is  met  by  Tom,  Dick, 
Harry  and  Jerry,  all  thrusting  a  ticket  in  his  face,  slan- 
dering the  boats  of  his  opponents,  and  so  perfectly 
crowding  his  way,  that  he  finds  it  impossible  to  pro- 
ceed, until  he  gives  them  to  understand  by  the  most 
desperate  frowns  or  hard  notrds,  that  they  had  better 
give  vent. 

On  board  the  beautiful  steamer  Henrick  Hudson,  we 
sailed  up  the  river,  where  Ave  found  the  scenery  inter- 
esting and  delightfuL  We  soon  arrived  at  Tarrytown, 
which  has  about  1000  inhabitants,  beautifully  situated 
on  an  eminence  overlooking  Tappan  bay,  27  miles 
north  of  the  city  of  New  York.  Tarrytown  is  famous 
as  being  the  place  where  Major  Andre  was  captured 
by  the  three  militia  men,  on  his  return  to  the  British 
lines,  after  a  visit  to  Gen.  Arnold  at  West  Point.  Ad- 
joining the  north  part  of  the  village  commences  the  fa- 
mous Sleepy  Hollow,  on  which  Washington  Irving 
»ounded  his  entertaining  legend,  bearing  the  name  of 
"Sleepy  Hollow." 

I  here  found  it  necessary  to  keep  the  notes  of  the 
scenery  of  the  east  bank  separate  from  those  of  the  west 
bank.  Therefore,  the  counties  and  the  side  of  the  riv- 
er they  occupied  were  first  noted  alternately,  and  then 
their  respective  scenery  as  they  were  passed. 

Sing  Sing,  a  town  with  a  population  of  2,500.  i:i  de- 
lightfully situated  33  miles  north  of  the  city  of  New 
York,  from  which  steamboats  and  vessels  piv   daily  to 


\ 


t 


.m 


u 


itxtE  PRiaON — PALlSADBft* 


iHr:  ■ 


;i    I; 


I.  m 


Sing  Sing,  which  has  four  excellend  landings.  Th« 
main  body  of  the  town  is  situated  on  high  and  uneven 
ground,  rising  to  an  eminence  of  180  feet  above  tide 
water.  From  this  point  the  view  is  extensive  and  var 
ried,  overlooking  Tappan  and  Haverstraw  bays,  the 
Hudson  and  Croton  rivers,  and  the  surrounding  counr 
trv,  includinj?  a  distant  view  of  the  Palisades  and  th« 
Highlands*  Sing  Sing  was  incorporated  in  1813.  It 
is  said  to  derive  its  name  from  the  Indian  word,  Ossin- 
Sing,  meaning  the  place  of  stone.  It  is  now  celebrated 
for  its  marble  quarries,  which  are  worked  to  a  great  ex- 
tent by  the  State  Prison  convicts,  of  the  Mount  Pleas- 
ant State  Prison,  situated  about  half  a  mile  south  of  the 
town.  The  prison  grounds  consist  of  130  acres  of 
land.  The  villages  of  Sparta  and  Peekskill,  are  situa- 
ted one  below  and  the  other  above  Sing  Singr. 

Rockland  Couniy,  (west  side,) — The  Palisades  are  a 
lofty  range  of  precipitous  rocks,  extending  along  the 
west  bank  of  the  Hudson  river,  for  a  distance  of  about 
20  miles.  At  Fort  Lee,  in  the  State  of  New  Jersey, 
they  first  approac^h  the  immediate  margin  of  the  river, 
varying  from  300  to  500  feet  in  almost  perpendicular 
height,  extending  north  to  Piermont,  at  the  commence- 
ment  of  Tappan  bay.  The  definition  pfp.  palisade  ap- 
pears to  be,  pales  set  out  for  an  enclosure  ;  and  these 
giant  rocks  stand,  and  ^yill  stand  as  long  as  the  sea 
knows  its  bounds  and  the  earth  keeps  its  foundation,  to 
restrain  on  one  side  the  majestic  waters  that  roll  onr 
ward  to  the  ocean. 

Stony  Point  is  a  point  of  land  extending  a  consider- 
jible  distance  into  Haverstraw  bay,  on  the  highwt  part 


d 


STONY  roi\T. 


S3 


s.  Th* 
uneven 
ive  tide 
and  va- 
lys,  the 
g  counr 
and  th« 
513.  It 
I,  Ossin- 
ilebrated 
jreat  ex- 
it Pleas- 
thpfthe 
acres  of 
re  situa- 

les  are  a 

ong  the 

of  about 

Jersey, 

le  river, 

ndicular 

nmence- 

sa^e  ap- 

id  these 

the    sea 

at  ion,  to 

roll  on- 

;onsider- 
iMt  part 


gf  which  stands  a  light  hous*.  This  rocky  point  of  land 
is  celebrated  for  having  been  the  scene  of  one  of  the 
most  gallant  exploits  during  our  Revolution.  These 
rocks  here  stand  as  a  lasting  monument  to  the  most 
brilliant  action  in  the  whole  life  of  the  heroic  Wavne. 
This  point  of  land  is  washed  on  two  sides  by  the  wa- 
ters of  the  Hudson.  The  fortress  was  situated  on  a  con- 
siderable hill,  on  the  west  lay  a  marsh  which  every 
tide  overflows.  With  all  these  natural  defences  the  in- 
trepid Wayne  only  demanded  of  Washington  a  corps 
of  moderate  strenorth,  which  we  are  told  Washingrton 
gave  with  considerable  hesitancy,  by  remarking  to 
Wayne,  that  he  feared  the  expedition  would  not  be 
successful ;  to  which  Wayne  replir  i.  '.'General,  if  you 
will  only  plan  it,  I  will  storm  tL'i." 

On  the  memorable  nig,ht  of  the  15th  July,  1779, 
Wayne  put  in  motion  two  charging  columns,  one  com- 
manded by  Col.  Henry  and  Major  Stewart,  the  other 
under  his  own  command,  they  coming  in  opposite  di- 
rections without  firing  a  gun,  while  storms  of  balls  and 
grape  were  hurled  in  their  faces. — Yet  the  shout  of 
Wayne  was  heard  above  the  din  of  the  tumult,  sum- 
moning his  followers  on,  and  pressing  furiously  lorward 
through  the  morass,  over  every  obstacle,  up  to  the  ve- 
ry mouths  of  the  cannon,  and  up  the  rocky  acclivity, 
they  stormed  on,  crushing  every  thing  in  their  passac-e. 
Towering  at  the  head  af  his  shattered  column,  pointino- 
still  upward  and  onward  with  his  glittering  blade,  and 
sending  hir  thrilling  shout  back  over  his  heroes,  Wayne 
strode  steadily  up  the  height,  till  at  length  struck  in  the 
head  by  a  ball  he  fell  back  amid  the  ranks.     Instantly 


ft 


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MOrNTAlI,-     SCUNKKV. 


rising  on  ono  knee,  he  cried  out,  "march  on !  carry  me 
into  the  Lrt,  for  I  will  die  at  the  head  of  my  column  !" 
And  those  heroes  put  their  hrave  arms  around  him, 
and  hore  him  onward,  taking  the  rapid  voUies  on  their 
unshrinking  breasts,  over  the  living  and  dead,  smiting 
down  the  veteran  ranks  that  threw  themselves  in  vain 
valor  before  them,  till  they  reached  the  centre  of  the 
fort,  where  they  met  the  other  column,  which  over 
like  obstacles  had  achieved  che  same  triumph.  At  the 
sight  of  each  other  one  loud  shout  shook  the  height 
and  rolled  down  the  bleedinor  lines;  was  again  sent 
back  till  the  heavens  rang  with  the  huzzas  of  the  hero- 
ic  patriots,  while  Col.  Henry  struck  the  British  flag, 
and  planted  the  American  stripes  upon  the  celebrated 
height. 

A  few  miles  above  Stony  Point  is  the  peak  of  Gi- 
bralter,  a  nriountain  peak  running  into  the  Hudson,  near 
which  is  Cadwell's  Ferry,  famous  for  the  wreck  of 
Kidd's  vessel.  These  mountains  present  a  scene  of 
some  interest,  not  only  as  being  picturesque  and  I'oman- 
tic  to  behold,  but  as  oeing  connected  with  the  history 
of  that  celebrated  pirate. 

Putnam  County,  (east  side) — This  side  of  the  Hud- 
son, so  far  as  this  county  extends,  is  famous  for  its  tow- 
ering mountain  peaks,  among  which  are  Anthony's 
Nose,  1128  feet  in  height,  Sugar  Loaf  Peaks,  two  of 
which  are  of  considerable  height.  The  village  of  Cold 
Spring  is  situated  in  a  gorge  in  the  mou:itains,  near  the 
edge  of  the  Hudson,  which  is  ornamented  by  several 
peaks  of  towering  mountains  near  it.  A  few  miles  a- 
bove  are  Bull  Height,  a  peak  1486  feet  in  perpendicu- 


:3 
-1 


WE:>T     I'<U\T. 


S7 


;atry  lue 
Dlumn !" 
nd  him, 
1  on  their 
smiling 
}  in  vain 
e  of  the 
ich  over 
At  the 
tj  height 
;ain  sent 
the  hero- 
tish  flag, 
elebrated 

ik  of  Gl- 
ison,  near 
wreck  of 
scene  of 
id  roman- 
history 

the  Hud- 
)r  its  tow- 
Lnthony's 
,  two  of 
e  of  Coid 
;,  near  the 
y  several 
miles  a- 
rpendicu- 


l.ir  hri^hl  .  I>rtMkn<H'k  Hriirhts  nn.»  two  rid*;^os  rvmnini^ 
to  [-kv  edge  of  the  Hudsun,  bein.^  11S7  feet  high. 

Orange  County,  [west  side.) — Here  are  forts  Clinton 
and  Montyromerv,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river; 
one  of  which  is  located  above  and  the  other  below  Bare 
mountain,  a  peak  1350feet  in  height.  About  5  miles 
farther  up  the  river,  is  the  memorable  spot  known  as 
West  Point,  containing  apopulationof  900  inhabitants. 
It  is  romantically  situated  in  the  Highland  range  of 
mountains,  where  they  were  cut  asunder  that  the  wa- 
ters of  the  Hudson  might  pass  quietly  on  its  course  to 
the  ocean.  The  river  here  makes  a  turn,  forming  an 
angle  oi  about  ninety  degrees,  the  mountain  forming  a 
like  angle.  On  this  angle  is  situated  West  Point,  at 
an  elevation  of  186  feet  above  the  Hudson. 

On  this  high  and  commanding  point  is  situated  the 
United  States  Military  Academy,  established  by  an  act 
of  Congress,  in  March,  1802,  for  the  instruction  of 
young  men  destined  ior  the  army.  The  number  of  ca- 
dets is  limited  to  250  ;  and  in  choosiug  among  the  ap- 
plicants, the  sons  of  the  revolutionary  otlicers  are  al- 
lowed the  first  claim,  and  the  children  of  the  deceased 
ofiicers  of  the  last  war  with  Great  Britain,  the  second. 
The  age  of  the  pupils  on  admission,  must  be  between 
I'i  and  22.  The  professors  and  instructors  are  30  in 
number.  Each  cadet  costs  the  government  $336  an- 
nually. They  are  required  to  decamp  six  or  eight 
weeks  during  the  year.  The  course  of  study  is  com- 
pleted in  lour  years,  and  includes  French,  Drawing, 
N^atural  and  Experimental  Philosoph}^,  Chemistry, 
Mineralogy,    Geography,    History,    Ethics,    National 


k 

¥ 


m 


88 


BlILDiXOS  AND  FORTll'ICATIONS. 


m 


Law,  Mathematics,  and  the  whole  system  of  itrate<;y, 
tactics,  artillery  and  engineering.  The  annual  expense 
of  the  institution  is  $150,000. 

The  buildings  belonging  to  this  great  institution  arc 
two  stone  barracks,  one  of  three  and  the  other  of  four 
stories  in  height,  an  academic  hall,  a  large  three  story 
stone  building,  275  feet  in  length  by  75  feet  in  width, 
used  for  military  exercises  in  winter  and  as  a  reposito- 
ry of  the  chemical  apparatus,  models  of  fortification, 
artillery,  machines,  architecture,  &c. ;  a  very  beautiful 
two  story  stone  structure  on  the  Elizabethan  gothic 
style  of  architecture,  M'hich  contains  the  library  and 
philosophical  apparatus.  This  great  structure  is  150 
feet  in  length  by  60  feet  in  width  ,  the  north  front  has 
three  towers,  two  of  which  are  suited  in  the  usual  way 
for  astronomical  apparatus,  while  the  centre  tower  is 
surmounted  by  a  dome  30  feet  in  diameter,  the  whole 
of  which  revolves  on  its  verticle  axis,  adapting  it  to 
the  use  of  a  large  equatorial  telescope.  There  are  al- 
io 17  separate  dwellings,  occupied  by  the  officers  of  the 
institutipn,  a  chapel,  a  hospital,  a  mess  hall,  two  cav- 
alry stables,  several  .workshops  and  storerooms,  to  which 
may  be  added  a  magazine,  a  labratory,  soldiers  bar- 
racks, a  store  and  about  25  dwelling  houses  occupied 
by  families  connected  with  the  institution. 

On  the  extreme  eastern  point  of  this  military  posi- 
tion, at  an  elevation  of  160  feet  above  the  Hudson,  is 
situated  Fort  Arnold  ;  and  on  Mount  Independence,  a- 
bout  500  feet  above  the  river,  and  about  1000  yards 
to  the  south-west  of  the  Academy,  is  situated  Fort  Put- 
nam.    There  are  also  numerous  other  redoubts  and  bat- 


i;  t'l 


\VK<T  ruiNT — mo.\i;mi:\t  to  koslii^ko. 


Sl> 


itratPgy, 
expense 

it  ion  arc 
•  of  four 
ee  story 
a  width, 
reposito- 
ification, 
beautiful 
n  got  hie 
irary  and 
•e  is  150 
front  has 
isual  way 
tower  is 
le  whole 
ting  it  to 
:e  are  al- 
:ers  of  the 
two  cav- 
to  which 
iers   bar- 
occupied 

ary  posi- 
udson,  is 
idence,  a- 
00  yards 
Fort  Put- 
s  and  bat- 


teries, crowning  the  various  omitiencet?  in  the  vicinity, 
built  under  the  direction  of  the    celebrated    Kosciusko 


as  engineer. 


No  place  in  the  Union  probably,  exceeds  West  Point 
in  regard  to  its  beauty  of  location,  and  the  stirring  in- 
cidents connected  with  its  early  history  ;  being  hallow- 
ed by  the  footsteps  of  Washington  and  Kosciusko  during 
the  revolutionary  struggle-  In  the  year  1777,  imme- 
diately after  the  capture  of  Forts  Clinton  and  Mont- 
gomery by  the  British  army.  West  Point  was  occupied 
by  the  American  army  and  fortified  at  the  instance  of 
Governor  George  Clinton,  of  revolutionary  memory. 
In  August,  1780,  it  was  placed  under  the  command  of 
Gen.  Arnold,  who  in  September,  basely  agreed  to  sur- 
render it  to  the  British.  But  his  treason  having  been 
discovered  by  the  capture  of  Major  Andre,  his  object 
was  not  effected.  Close  to  the  shore  of  the  Hudson, 
stands  a  large  white  marble  Monument,  bearing  the 
name  of  Kosciusko,  which  is  a  ver}^  beautiful  structure. 
There  is  also  here  a  spacious  and  well  kept  hotel  where 
visitors  will  meet  with  every  accommodation  that  a 
kind  host  can  bestow. 

At  the  distance  of  about  5  miles  up  the  river,  are 
Crow's  Nest  and  Butter  Hill,  two  high  and  beautiful 
peaks;  the  former  being  1410,  and  the  latter  1529  feet 
in  hei";ht,  above  the  waters  of  the  Hudson.  They  are 
situated  opposite  Breakneck  Peak,  the  last  of  the  range 
ol  Highland;  on  the  east  side  of  the  river.  The  profile 
of  a  human  face  (called  Turkis  face,)  can  be  seen  on 
the  point  of  rock  which  projects  farthest  out.  A  few 
miles  above  this  is  the  town  of  Windsor,  a  tjourishin^ 


90 


^riMCRY    OF  TIIK  iriDBOX. 


place,  near  whicli  is  Newburg,  with  a  population  of 
8,933,  a  city  very  beautifully  built  on  the  declivity  of 
a  hill.  It  probably  makes  a  better  appearance  from 
the  river  than  from  any  other  point.  The  place  how- 
ever, contains  many  iine  houses  and  some  handsome 
streets,  being  also  a  place  of  considerable  trade  having 
a  number  of  boats  and  several  excellent  pier  sand  ware- 
houses. •  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  town 
stands  the  old  stone  house,  in  which  Washington  held 
his  quarters,  at  the  time  the  celebrated  Newburg  Let- 
ters made  their  appearance. 

Duchess  County,  {east  side.) — The  towns  of  Fishkill, 
with  a  population  of  10,437,  Hamburg  and  Barnegat 
are  each  pleasantly  i^ituated  betwoen  the  Breakneck 
Peak,  the  last  of  the  Highlands,  and  the  city  of  Pough- 
keepsie  ;  having  in  their  rear  a  rich  agricultural  region 
of  country,  and  may  be  said  to  be  in  a  prospering  con- 
dition. They  possess  some  points  of  interest  for  river 
towns,  especially  Fishkill,  memorable  for  the  head-quar- 
ters of  Washington  during  a  wrtion  of  the  campaign 
of  1780. 

In  passing  through  the  mountain  gorges  which  ^^ive 
passage  to  the  waters  of  the  Hudson,  we  were  at  times 
overshadowed  by  the  towering  peaks  of  the  Highland 
range,  and  at  others  the  eye  could  range  over  a  pros- 
pect, which  for  variety  is  rarely  surpassed.  The  scenes 
which  skirt  the  margin  of  the  Hudson  until  it  reaches 
the  Catskill  mountain,  consist  of  numerous  objects  of 
romantic  interest,  where  is  presented  a  checkered  land- 
scape of  hill  and  dale,  meadow  and  thicket,  as  well  as 
the  o;raceful  forest  tree,  with  tha  earth  benor»^»^  ;♦  m.^-.. 


ftKNfiRY   or  Tllli  Mru»ox. 


91 


lation  «f 
clivity  of 
ice  from 
ace  how- 
landsomc 
le  having 
ind  ware- 
the  town 
orton  held 

c 

burg  Lt't- 

fFishkill, 

Barnegat 

breakneck 

of  Pousch- 

iral  region 

;ring  con- 

for  river 

lead-quar- 

campaign 


riVQ 


hich 

•e  at  times 

Hisihland 
er  a  pros- 
rhe  scenes 

it  reaches 
objects  of 
Lered  land- 
as  well  as 


i 


ered  with  a  profusion  of  wild  flowers.  After  emerging 
from  those picturesqiif  and  attractivegorgc's, and  leaving 
behind  us  the  last  peak  of  the  Highlands,  on  the  cast 
side  of  the  Hudson  a  broad  and  beautiful  valley  spread 
its  verdant  bosom  before  us  with  all  the  charms  of  vi'jx- 
etation,  while  in  the  distance  the  blue  Catskill  moun- 
tain reared  its  towering  summit  conspiciously  to  our 
gaze.  Poughkoepsie,  a  town  with  7500  inhabitants,  at- 
tracted attention,  beinoj  situated  with  the  highest  regard 
to  beauty  of  location,  the  buildings  and  grounds  display- 
ing much  taste.  Its  importance  as  a  river  town  is  consid- 
erable, as  it  has  an  extensive  back  country  to  support  its 
commerce.  The  eye  of  the  passenger  is  met  in  success*"  n 
by  the  towns  of  Hyde  Park,  Straatsburg,  Rhinebeck, 
Redhook,  Claremont,  Marlborough,  Milton,  Paltz,  Pel- 
ham,  Kingston,  Columbus,  Glasgom,  Bristol,  and  a  num- 
ber of  others  presenting  activity  and  beauty. 

Columbia  County,  {east  side.) — The  city  of  Hudson, 
With  5472  inhabitants,  is  situated  on  a- high  and  com- 
manding eminence,  overlooking  the  river,  being  ad- 
vantageously located  116  miles  north  of  the  city  of 
New  York.  The  city  has  in  its  employ  seven  or  eight 
whale  ships  and  four  steamboats,  with  a  number  of 
freight  barges,  besides  several  sloops  employed  in  the 
transportation  of  produce  and  merchandise  to  and  from 
different  places.  The  city  has  in  its  employ  a  steam 
ferrv-boat  which  plies  regularly  between  the  city  and 
Athens  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  The  city 
was  first  settled  in  1783,  and  received  a  charter  in 
1785.  It  contains  a  large  and  beautiful  Court  House, 
l\ij  feet  in  length,  and  other  count v  buil^i'i'^''  •  "-^-^  ^^^'» 


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Hudson  Lunatic  Asylum,  situated  on  State  street,  fa- 
cing the  Court  House  on  the  south,  with  delightful 
grounds  attached,  adorned  with  the  choicest  species  of 
flowering  shrubbery.  A  spring  at  the  footof  Becraft's 
mountain,  two  miles  from  the  city, supplies  it  with  water. 

Greene  County^  [west  side.) — Athens  has  a  popula- 
tion of  2387,  is  situated  opposite  the  city  oi  Hudson, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam  ferry-boat  which 
runs  regularly  every  hour  during  the  day,  in  a  canal 
which  has  been  cut  through  a  low,  marshy  island  in 
the  river,  between  the  two  places.  The  town  is  loca- 
ted on  a  very  beautiful  plain,  gently  sloping  towards 
the  river.  A  large  number  of  sloops  sail  from  this 
J.  lace;  the  wharf  presenting  a  busy  scene  indeed  for  so 
small  a  place.  The  inhabitants  show  many  signs  of 
having  received  lessons  on  commerce  at  New  York  or 
some  other  great  mart.  The  town  is  adorned  with  nu- 
merous mansions  of  private  gentlemen. 

The  next  town  worthy  of  notice  is  Catskill,  a  place 
with  2800  inhabitants.  It  is  located  on  both  sides  of 
the  Catskill  creek,  near  its  junction  wiih  the  Hudson; 
the  principal  street  being  situated  about  half  a  mile 
west  of  the  steamboat  landing.  The  town  contains  some 
fine  churches  and  dwellings,  especially  on  its  principal 
street ;  which  are  ornamented  with  handsome  avenues 
of  trees  of  various  speeies,  many  of  which  presented  a 
graceful  appearance.  A  most  beautiful  Pine  orchard 
or  grove,  to  the  southwest  of  the  town  on  Catskill  moun^ 
tain,  is  a  favorite  resort  of  travellers  in  the  warm  months. 
A  handsome  hotel  has  been  erected  there  several  years 
^a  the  brow  of  a' great  rt^ck,  at  an  elevation   of  about 


At.CANV. 


93 


If 


1200  feet  abuve  the  Hudson  ;  which  commands  a  most 
charming  view,  embractng  about  70  miles  from  north 
to  south  on  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  and  the  hilly 
country  to  the  east,  including  a  number  of  peaks  of  the 
Green  mountain  range,  in  Massachusetts  and  Vermont, 
which  presented  the  most  romantic  and  sublime  ap^ 
pearance  in  the  distance.  During  my  visit  to  this 
mountain,  a  thunder  storm  could  be  seen  passing  down 
the  valley  of  the  Hudson.  It  seemed  to  be  below  a 
level  with  the  hotel,  and  presented  a  scene  grand  and 
awful.  The  air  was  cool,  which  is  said  to  be  the  case 
during  the  year.  Two  ponds  in  rear  of  the  hotel  unite 
their  streams,  and  the  water  falls  175  feet  and  soon  al- 
ter again  85  feet  into  an  immense  ravine  between  two 
ridges  of  mountains. 


C  H  A  P  T  E  R    IX. 

Albany — Eric  and  Clnmplain  Canals — IJasin — Boats — Site  of 
Albany — Heights — Prospect — Capitol  Square — City  Hall — 
State  Hall — Academies — Capitol — Public  Buildings-Old  Buil- 
dings— Public  Squares — Streets — Grcenbush- Railroads-Troy 
— Public  Buildings — Institution — Manufactories — Steamboats 
— Water  power — Railroads — Streets — Mounts  Olympus  and 
Ida — Prospect— Landslip — Quaker  Village — Drees  and  mode 
of  worship — Scenery  of  the  Hudson — Departure  for  Buffalo. 

The  city  of  Albany  with  a  population  of  41,339,  is 
the  capitol  of  New  York,  being  one  of  the  oldest  cities 
in  the  Union.  The  place  was  originally  called  Beav- 
er Wyck  or  Beavertown,  alter  which  it  received  the 
name  of  Williamstadt :  not  receiving  the  name  of  Al- 


94. 


Al.nAW. 


ban  J  till  the  year  1664,  in  honor  of  Jamca,  Duke  of 
York  and  Albany,  afterwards  James  II,  in  whose  reign 
Governor  Dongan  chartered  it  as  a  city,  July  22, 1886. 
It  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Hudson  river,  150 
miles  north  of  New  York  city,  and  is  classed  the  second 
city  in  the  State  in  population,  wealth  and  resources. 
It  is  indebted  for  its  prosperity  to  the  enterprise  ol  its 
inhabitants,  and  the  impulse  given  to  its  trade  by  the 
Erie  and  Champlain  Canals,  which  enter  the  Hudson 
river  at  the  north  end  of  the  city,  previously  uniting 
eight  miles  north  of  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  termi- 
naring  at  a  basin,  which  is  formsd  in  the  Hudson  river 
by  a  pier,  one  mile  and  a  quarter  in  length,  furnishing 
a  safe  harbor  for  vessels  of  all  descriptions,  and  secu- 
ring them  from  injury  by  the  ice,  which  in  the  spring 
freshets  comes  down  the  river  in  immense  quantities, 
sometimes  causing  great  damage.  In  this  splendid  ba- 
sin, sloops,  tow-boats  and  canal-boats  are  brought  side 
by  side,  or  have  their  cargoes  exchanged  over  the  pier. 
The  city  is  commanding  in  its  situation,  and  appears 
to  great  advantage  from  the  river.  There  are  three  ra- 
vines running  from  east  to  west,  known  as  the  Foxes 
Rill,  the  Rutten  Rill  and  the  Beaver  Rill,  on  either 
side  of  which  the  land  is  high,  being  at  an  elevation 
of  from  150  to  160  feet  high,  which  is  gained  by  a 
gradual  ascent  from  the  Hudson.  The  view  from  these 
heights  is  picturesque  in  the  highest  degree.  To  the 
north  may  be  seen  the  city  of  Troy  and  the  adjacent 
villages,  and  in  the  distance  the  hills  and  mountain 
peaks  of  Vermont ;  to  the  east  the  beautiful  extent  of 
country  lying  beyond  the  Hudson   river,   and   to   the 


riTAAe  r.nL!>i\«:«  or  xr.hANv. 


95 


south  are  the  bold  Helderberg  and  Catskill  mountains, 
>vith  the  noble  Hudson  gliding  at  their  base,  ^hosc 
transparent  bright  waves,  mingling  with  the  golden 
rays  of  the  sun,  appeared  like  liquid  gold  in  the  sun- 
light, while  rolling  in  sublime  griindeurat  the  base  of 
the  towering  Helderbergs. 

The  Capitol  occupies  a  delightful  elevated  situation 
at  the  head  of  State  street,  being  located  in  the  midst 
of  a  large  and  splendid  square,  formed  by  Capitol  and 
Academy  Parks,  which  arc  enclosed  with  a  substantial 
iron  fence  erected  on  stone  cappings,  and  are  laid  out 
with  walks  lined  with  ornamental  trees  of  the  choicest 
species.  A  more  delightfut  square  in  summer,  is  not 
to  be  found  in  any  city  in  the  Union.  There  are  a 
number  of  public  buildings  facing  this  splendid  square, 
among  which  are  the  City  Hall,  lacing  the  west.  This 
is  a  noble  edifice  of  white  marble,  110  feet  long  and 
80  feet  wide,  surmounted  by  a  gilded  dome  40  feet  in 
diameter.  This  structure  is  occupied  at  certain  peri- 
ods by  the  Courts  of  the  United  States  Circuit,  of  Com- 
mon Pleas,  the  Mayor,  &c.  The  State  Hall,  for  the 
accommodation  of  public  officers,  ii  a  massive  and  ele- 
gant structure,  140  feet  long  and  90  feet  wide,  erected 
at  a  cost  of  $350,000.  The  Albany  Academy,  having 
400  pupils,  is  a  very  splendid  edifice  of  red  freestone  j 
and  the  Female  Academy,  erected  in  1834,  a  building 
possessing  many  attractive  features,  are  among  the  beau- 
tiful buildings  facing  the  capitol  square. 

The  Capitol  itself,  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  this 
great  square,  facing  the  cast.  It  is  a  large  and  superh 
edifice,  built  of  hewn  sandstone,    having   a   large  and 


!^6 


ftl  n.DIN(*iS  ANt)  STIirims  Ol'  ALB.AN'Vi 


splend'ul  gilded  dome,  surmounted  by  a  cupola  or  cir* 
cular  lantern,  which  is  in  turn  surmounted  by  a  statue 
of  Justice,  holding  overhead  a  large  gilded  scale.  The 
east  and  west  fronts  of  the  Capitol  are  adorned  with  a 
heavy  and  powerful  portico,  each  containing  twelve 
massive  fluted  columns.  The  interior  of  the  building 
contains  two  spacious  and  richly  furnished  chambers 
for  the  Senate  and  Assembly.  Much  taste  and  gran- 
deur is  displayed  in  the  chambers  and  the  whole  of  the 
capitol  of  the  Empire  Slate.  In  addition  to  the  cham- 
bers, are  rooms  for  the  Supreme  and  Chancellor's  Court, 
an  office  for  the  Governor,  rooms  for  committees,  ju- 
rors, &c. 

In  addition  to  the  public  buildings  noticed,  the  city 
contains  19  others,  all  of  which  are  large  and  posses- 
sing much  elegance,  among  which  may  be  named,  the 
Albany  Exchange,  a  massive  granite  structure,  con- 
taining four  wholesale  stores,  the  Post  Office,  &c.  The 
Medical  College  occupies  a  building  admirably  adapted 
for  the  purposes  of  its  design.  This  College  possesses 
one  of  the  most  valuable  museums  in  our  country. — 
The  Albany  Orphan  Asylum,  St.  Joseph's  Orphan  A- 
sylum,  (a  Catholic  Institution  for  females  only,  under 
the  charge  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity,)  the  Museum, 
Stanwix  Hall,  Knickerbocker  Hali,  two  beautiful  halls. 
The  ceiling  and  walls  of  the  latter  are  very,  tastefully 
ornamented  in  the  Italian  style.  The  ball-room  of 
Stanwix  Hall  is  the  largest  in  America,  and  is  lighted 
by  a  dome  60  feet  high,  supported  by  four  columns  and 
eight  antas.  The  Athceneum,  the  Commercial  and 
PcnnBuildinirsare  amoniithe  jirrat  buildings  of  the  city. 


ALDAN  Y — GRKE.NBUMl. 


\n 


Albany  was  founded  !)y  the  Dutch  as  early  aslG23, 
who  appear  to  have  had  singular  ideas  of  architecture, 
at  least  so  far  as  we  find  them  displayed  in  Albany  ;  as 
the  city  contains  many  of  those  old,  antiquated,  gablc^ 
ended,  top-heavy  houses,  v^hose  singular  points  ol  ar- 
chitecture, with  a  great  fleece  of  moss  clinging  to  their 
roofs  and  walls,  which  time  has  woven  around  them, 
causes  them  to  present  an  ancient  and  gloomy  Rppear- 
ance  ;  among  which  may  be  seen  se^n^ral  old  churches, 
whose  walls  according  to  the  inscriptions  on  the  i^ock 
above  the  doors,  have  received  the  tempests  of  those 
regions  for  more  than  two  centuries.     The  whole  num- 
her  of  church  edifices  is  31,  a  large  portion  of  which 
are  of  considerable  elegance,  some  being  iituated  ad- 
joining the  public  squares,  of  which  the  city   abounds, 
there  being  no  less  than  11  delightful  public  squares 
distributed  through  the  city  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  inhabitants.     Albany  contains  many  rough  and  nar- 
row streets.     Their  roughness  is  owing  in  a  considera- 
ble degree  to  the  rising  ground  the  city   occupies  and 
their  being  paved  with  round  river  rock,  which  are  al- 
ways kept  bare  by  the  action  of  the  rains.     Over  these 
rouo^h  streets  are  constantly  thundering  scores  of  omni- 
busses,  cabs  and  drays,  w^hich  is  somewhat  annoying  to 
a  stranger  from  a  quiet  home  in  thf'  country. 

The  town  ofGreenbush,  with   !J700    inhabitants,  is 

situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson,  opposite  the 

south  port  of  Albany,  with  which  it  has  a  ro<nilar  con> 

mimication  by  steam  ferry.     The  Uo.^ton  and  Albany 

Railroad  terminates  in  the  north  part  of  this   town. — 

Thi"*  road  forms  an  uninterrupted  cajninnnicalion  with 
.5 


d8 


TKor. 


the  city  oi'  Boilon,  and  is  one  ot  tho  greatest  links  be- 
tween the  castorn  and  western  States  ;  a  railroad  being 
constructed  from  this  town  to  the  city  of  Troy,  where 
it  unites  with  tho  Troy  and  Schenectady  railroad,  thus 
forming  a  regular  connected  railroad  line  from  Boston 
to  Buffalo  on  Lake  Erie,  a  distance  of  530  miles. 

Troy,  with  26,709  inhabitants,  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson,  at  the  head  of  tide  wa- 
ter and  steamboat  navigation,  six  miles  above  Albany, 
and  156  north  of  the  city  of  New  York.  Its  existence 
as  a  village  may  be  dated  from  1790.  It  was  incorpo- 
rated as  a  city  in  1816,  and  has  recently  been  made  a 
port  of  entry.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly  engaged  in 
commerce,  trade  and  manufactures,  especially  since 
the  completion  of  the  Erie  and  Champlain  canals,  which 
unite  tha  waters  of  the  Lakes  with  those  of  the  Hud- 
son at  this  place,  to  which  the  city  is  endebted  for  the 
rapid  increase  of  its  wealth.  Here  are  situated  a  fine 
Court-House,  built  of  marble,  on  tho  Grecian  Doric  or- 
der ;  a  Jail,  constructed  of  brick  ;  a  county  Poor-house, 
to  which  a  farm  containing  200  acres  is  attached  i  the 
Rensselaer  Institute,  founded  by  the  Hon.  Stephen  Van 
Rensselaer,  where  the  sciences  are  practically  taught 
to  young  men  under  the  charge  of  Professor  Green  ; 
the  Troy  Female  Seminary,  a  floui  ishing  chartered  in- 
stitution ;  the  Troy  Academy,  also  an  excellent  classi- 
cal and  chartered  institution,  for  the  education  of  boys , 
btsides  stveral  select  schools  for  males  and  females. — 
Troy  contains  two  new,  finely  modeled  and  extensive 
market  buildings,  8  Presbyterian  churches,  4  Episco- 
pal, 3  Baptist,  4<  Methodist,  2  Roman  Catholic,  1  Uni- 


Trov. 


99 


bere 
thus 
jston 


ic  01- 
houise, 
I  i  the 
jnVan 


versalist,  1  Frieiitl'8  meolin^-houso,  ti  JcvviBh  Syna- 
gogues, f)  Banks,  1  Mutual  Insurance  Company,  1  Ly- 
ceum of  Natural  History,  with  a  choice  scientific  li- 
brary,  and  an  extensive  collection  of  minerals  and  col- 
lections in  various  branches  of  natural  history,  a  young 
men's  association  for  mutual  improvement,  with  a  large 
library,  an  extensive  reading  room,  and  a  select  cabi- 
net of  curiosities,  20  Hotels,  '3t  importing  houses,  and 
400  dry  goods  and  grocerie.s,  and  other  stores. 

In  the  manufacturing  lino  may  be  named,  4«  cotton 
factories,  2  woollen  factories,  10  flour  and  plaister  mills, 
1  saw-mill,  2  paper  mills,  3  extensive  iron  rolling  and 
slitting  mills,  4  furnaces,  8  lulling  mills,  7  tanneries, 
several  large  factories  for  boots  and  shoes,  3  breweries, 
1  distillery,  1  pottery,  5  stage  coach,  railroad  car,  car- 
riage and  wagon  factories,  6  printing  offices,  10  hat 
and  fur  cap  factories,  2  steam  planing  mills,  1  brush 
factory,  4  looking  glass  and  picture  frame  factories,  1 
hammer  and  hoe  factory,  a  large  number  of  tin,  sheet 
iron,  stove,  chair  and  cabinet  factories,  besides  factories 
and  workshops  of  almost  every  description.  Here  are 
owned  about  60  masted  vessels,  7  larje  passage  steam- 
boats of  the  first  class,  among  which  ix  <ty  be  named  the 
Troy  and  Niagara,  which  are  296  feet  in  length  and 
62  feet  in  width  ;  the  diameter  of  their  wheels  is  31 
feet  and  13  feet  wide  ;  the  Niagara  has  one  vertical 
engine  600  horse  power,  with  one  cylinder  5  feet  in 
diameter,  giving  11  feet  stroke  to  the  piston.  The 
boat  draws  only  4i  feet,  with  wood  and  water  on  board 
for  passage,  whose  tonage  is  770  tons.  The  Troy  is 
of  the  same  dimensions  and  has  the  same  tonage,    with- 


m^ 


4  A 


100 


TROY. 


two  of  Ml*.  Win.  A.  Lighthall's  patent  horizontal  pis- 
ton's (a  groat  improvement,)  attached,  with  only  300 
horso  power,  and  yet  it  impels  it  with  as  much  rapidi- 
ty as  the  other,  as  the  power  of  the  piston  acts  directly 
upon  the  craixc.  Besides  these  boats  there  are  22  bar- 
ges, with  6  steam  tow-boats  which  ply  between  Troy 
and  New  York,  transporting  annually  an  iinmensc  a- 
mount  of  produce  and  merchandise. 

The  water  power  at  Troy  is  immense,  and  a  large 
portion  within  the  limits  of  the  city  is  still  unoccupied. 
About  a  mile  east  of  the  Hudson,  a  tunnel  hns  been 
excavated  by  Mr.  Benjamin  Marshall,  extending  a  dis- 
tance of  SOO  feet,  from  the  Poestenkill,  giving  a  fall  of 
180  feet.  Several  large  mills  and  factories  to  be  sup- 
plied with  water  from  this  fall,  were  in  progress  of  e- 
rection.  Near  the  northern  part  of  the  city,  a  dam 
has  been  built  across  the  Hudson  by  the  State,  which 
here  makes  a  fall  of  11  feet,  and  creates  an  uncalcula- 
ble  amount  of  hydraulic  power.  This  city  is  abun- 
dantly supplied  with  wholesome  water,  brought  from 
the  Piskawin  creek  through  iron  pipes,  with  hydrants 
at  the  corners  of  the  streets  for  the  extinguishment  ot 
fires.  A  great  reservoir  is  situated  in  the  north  part 
of  the  cit}',  about  half  a  mile  east  of  the  Hudson,  about 
90  feet  above  the  tide  waters  of  the  river.  The  water 
is  carried  by  the  force  of  its  head,  above  the  highest 
house  in  the  city,  and  if  used  for  domestic  purposes  as 
well  as  lor  the  extinguishment  of  fires.  The  Rensse- 
lear  and  Saratoga  railroad  commences  at  this  city, 
crossing  the  Hudson  river  by  a  substantial  bridge,  1650 
■feet  in  Icngih,  to  Green  Island  ;   thence   it    cojitinucs 


inoY. 


101 


north  across  sovrral  branch«»s  of  IIk:  Mohawk  river  to 
Wuterlord,  following  the  valley  of  the  Hudson,  until 
it  reaches  Merhanicksville,  where  it  iliverjijes  to  th(» 
west  and  continues  to  iiallston  Spa,  a  distance  of  24< 
miles,  and  unites  with  the  Saraloi^a  and  Schenectady 
railroad  ;  while  a  branch  runs  directly  to  Schenectady, 
forming  the  line  already  noticed  from  Boston  to  HufTa- 
lo.  The  city  of  Troy  has  long  been  celebrated  for  its 
beauty  and  healthiness;  the  streets  are  laid  out  at  right 
angles,  are  generally  wide,  remarkable  for  their  clean- 
liness and  planted  with  beautiful,  and  in  the  hot  season, 
most  grateful  forest  and  shade  trees.  From  Mount  Ida 
on  the  east  and  Mount  Olympus  on  the  north,  an  ex- 
tensive and  charming  prospect  is  presented  :  embracing 
a  view  of  the  Valley  of  the  Hudson  for  many  miles; 
the  city  of  Albany  on  the  rising  ground  it  occupies, 
with  its  glittering  domes  and  steeples,  presents  a  scene 
delightful  in  the  highest  degree,  while  the  towns  of 
West  Troy,  Lansingburg,  Waterford,  Cohoes,  Cohues 
Falls,  with  a  landscape  presenting  more  beauty  and  a 
greater  variety  of  scenery  than  can  possibly  be  descri- 
bed ;  among  which  can  be  seen  a  curious  landslip  which 
took  place  in  1812,  which  consists  of  the  western  side 
of  Mount  Olympus,  together  with  a  contiguous  portion 
of  Mount  Ida,  having  slid  down  in  the  Hudson,  and 
caused  the  death  of  several  persons  who  were  unable 
to  escape  the  sliding  mount. 

While  at  this  city,  curiosity  induced  me  to  visit  a 
Quaker  village,  several  miles  distant,  which  1  found  to 
possess  much  order,  neatness  and  beauty.  The  village 
consists  of  a  common  doniain  or  stock,  in  which  each 


101 


gUAKKR    Vlt.LAGK. 


havo  an  equal  «haro.  The  (Quaker's  ilress  in  either 
grey  or  drab  chielly  of  a  fine  qnality,  often  made  some- 
what like  a  waistcoat,  without  phtits  on  the  sides  and 
without  buttons  on  the  ]>ocUeLs  or  sleeves  ;  their  hats 
bDad-hrirniTied  aiul  horizontal,  the  socks  white  with  a 
neat  shoe,  rarely  wearing  a  boot.  The  dress  of  tho 
worn<Mi  is  brown  or  some  plain  dark  color,  generally 
fine.  All  the  politeness  they  aim  at  is  an  open,  frank 
access  and  natural  easy  conversation.  Meditation, 
prayer,  recollection,  contemplation  and  reading  the  Bi- 
ble are  the  chief  devotions  which  the  Quakers  use  at 
homo.  Their  outward  exercises  of  devotion  consist  of 
a  piofound  contemplation,  often  resulting  in  a  sullen 
silence  for  two  or  three  hours,  till  some  one  of  them, 
man  or  woman  rises  either  with  a  composed  motion  or 
in  a  kind  of  transport,  as  if  actuated  by  an  irrcsistable 
j).)wer,  and  often  with  siii;hs,  groans  and  tears.  This 
is  caused  as  they  pretend,  by  the  impression  of  the 
spirit,  which  often  awakens  these  stupified  persons, 
after  several  hours  spent  in  entering  into  a  serious  con- 
sideration of  the  state  of  their  own  souls,  during  which 
meditation  according  to  their  doctrine,  the  spirit  pre- 
pares to  itself  hidden  ways  to  penetrate  into  the  hearts 
of  the  faithful;  then  it  breaks- forth  in  sermons  and  ex- 
hortations or  pslaiTiody,  during  which  those  not  inspi- 
red to  speak,  remain  in  a  state  of  recollection,  examin- 
ing themselves,  attended  with  sighs  and  groans.  From 
the  inward  conflict  of  the  spirit  against  the  flesh,  pro- 
ceed those  bodily  motions,  those  shakings  and  tremb- 
lings with  which  the  faithful  are  seized,  which  seldom 
fiiils  to  extend  to  the  whole  Quaker  congregation  be- 


.bCCNURY  or  Tin;    UL'DSON. 


10.1 


loro  their  dismission,  and  the  shaking,  tron»bliMg,jurup- 
inn;,  and  singing  is  culercd  into  with  such  ardor  that 
the  whole  assemhly-roora  or  house  of  worship  present* 
a  scene  which  almost  scorns  to  be  agitated  by  an  earth- 
quake or  some  other  convulsion  of  nature. 

Alter  a  few  hours  spent  in  the  Quaker  village  and 
house  of  worship,  which  presented  scenes  as  interest- 
ing as  they  were  singular,  we  ascended  a  second  time. 
Mount  Olympus  and  Ida  to  snjoy  the  magnificent  pros- 
pect their  summits  alTord,  then  returned  to  Troy,  ac- 
cording to  our  determination  when  in  the  city  of  New 
York,  having  halted  at  the  principal  places  of  interest 
along  the  shores  of  the  noble  Hudson,  and  on  one  oc- 
casion leitthe  river  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  Catskill 
and  several  other  places  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river, 
whose  margin  is  a  continued  scene  of  interest.  The 
scenery  of  the  Hudson,  on  the  east  and  west  banks,  be- 
came extremely  grand  and  picturesque  soon  after  leav- 
ing the  city  of  New  Yorkl  On  the  western  bank  of 
the  river,  commence  those  lofty  and  grand  precipices 
of  columnar  basalt,  which  are  Irom  400  to  GOO  feet  in 
height,  called  the  Palisades,  which  are  extremely  pic- 
turesque, and  the  scenery  on  all  hands  imposing.  On 
arriving  at  the  Highlands  the  winding  of  the  channel 
is  closed  in  by  steep  hills  on  both  sides,  and  the  vessel 
often  held  her  course  as  if  bearing  directly  on  Igind, — 
The  stranscer  cannot  guess  in  which  direction  he  is  to 
penetrate  the  rocky  gorge :  but  he  soon  emerges  again 
into  a  broad  valley,  when  the  blue  Catskill  mountains 
appear  in  the  distance,  which  are  found  on  a  nearer 
aoDroach  to  be  very  imposing  and  picturofjque  in  their 


lOi' 


sciixiiHY  or  tiil:  iild&on. 


appearance.  The  j^raiui  scenery  of  the  nohle  Hiul.son 
deserves  all  the  praise  v'hich  can  be  lavisheJ  upon  it- 
From  the  city  ol  'iVoy,  my  route  lay  west  up  the 
famous  Mohawk  Valley  by  the  city  of  Schenectady, 
by  way  of  Trenton  Falls,  the  city  of  Utica,  and  Roth- 
ester,  continuing  west  to  the  city  of  BuHalo  on  Lake 
Erie,  which  route  I  found  to  contain  scores  of  the  most 
ilourishing  cities,  towns  and  villages  to  be  found  in  the 
Union,  all  situated  in  the  most  fertile  and  highly  cul- 
tivated portion  of  the  State  of  New  York,  which  was 
ijut  a  few  years  ago  a  perfect  wilderness,  filled  with 
marshes  and  swamps  and  in  every  way,  had  all  the 
charms  of  savage  wildness. 


CHAPTER    X 


Schenectady — Historical  Sketch— Mohawk  Valley — Erie  Canal 
— Bridge — Union  College — Towns — Little  Falls — Utica — Site 
of  Fo^t  Schuyler — Historical  Sketch — Lunatic  Asylum — 
Bridges — Plains  of  Orlskany — Trenton  Falls— Imposing  Scene- 
ry— Iloine — Reflections  on  the  great  Progress  of  the  Country- 
Towns — Syracuse — Salina — Onondago  Salt  Springs — Towns 
— Auburn — State  Prison — Cayuga  Lake — Bridge — Seneca 
Lake — Seneca  Falls — Villages — Genesee  Valley — Rochester 
— Great  A.queduct — Genesee  Falls — Manufactures — Public 
Buildii\gs — Erie  Canal — Bridges — High  State  of  Agriculture 
— Le  Roy  Falls — Towns. 

Schenectady  County. — ^The  city  of  Schenectady, 
with  a  population  of  6.555  is  beautifully  situated  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk  river,  16  miles  Irom  the 


SrHKNEctibVi 


105 


1 

city  of  Albany,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  the 
Hudson  and  Mohawk  railroad.  This  place  is  celebra- 
ted as  beinpr  onco  the  headquarters  of*  the  Mohawk  In- 
dians ;  and  also  for  the  dreadful  Saturday  ni^^ht  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1G90,  when  the  inhabitants  v.ere  inhumanly 
massacred  by  the  French  and  Indians,  directed  by  Count 
Frontenac,  Governor  of  Canada,  against  the  colony  of 
New  York.  It  appears  the  inhabitants  of  the  place 
wer«  warned  of  their  danger  ;  but  thinking  themselves 
secure,  as  the  season  was  dreadful  cold  and  the  snow 
go  deep  that  it  was  deemed  impossible  for  an  enemy  to 
approach. — But  the  attack  was  made  in  the  dead  hour 
of  night,  while  the  inhabitants  were  in  a  profound  sleep; 
not  a  sentinel  was  awake  to  announce  the  approach  of 
the  savage  monster,  who  was  stealing  through  the  streets 
of  their  delightful  village,  arranging  his  bloody  demons 
al  ^very  door ;  when  alas  for  slumbering  Schenectady, 
they  were  aroused  by  the  appalling  war-whoop  ol  the 
savage  monster,  who  at  a  given  signal  fell  upon  his  a- 
waking  and  terrified  victim,  when  men  and  women 
with  their  slumbering  infants,  were  dragged  from  their 
beds,  and  inhumanly  murdered.  It  is  scarcely  possible 
to  describe  that  awful  scene.  Sixty  persons  perished 
in  the  massacre  ;  thirty  were  made  prisoners,  while 
the  rest  of  the  inhabitants,  mostly  naked,  fled  through 
the  deep  snow,  either  suffering  extremely  or  perishe4 
in  the  cold  ;  while  every  house  was  set  on  fire,  and 
the  Indians  rendered  frantic  by  the  wild  scene,  ran 
through  the  streets  slaying  those  they  chanced  to  meet. 
And  thug  was  the  colony  of  New  York,  for   her   own 

negligence,  called  upon  to  mourn  the  sad  fate   of  her 
5* 


PtI 


106 


TOWNS  AND  VILLAGE?. 


m 


beautiful  Schenectady,  so  handsomely  situated  in    the 
famous  Mohawk  valley. 

The  present  city  received  a  charter  in  1798,  and  is 
now  a  very  flourishing  and  handsome  place,  situated 
in  ?  very  beautiful  valley,  all  in  a  high  state  of  culti- 
vation and  a  region  of  country  possessing  many  attrac- 
tions as  well  as  the  city.  It  is  connected  with  the  city 
of  Troy  by  a  railroad,  called  the  Schenectady  and  Troy 
railroad.  The  Erie  canal  passes  through  this  place. — 
The  Hudson  and  Mohawk  railroad  crosses  the  river 
near  the  city,  by  a  long  and  splendid  bridge.  The  city 
contains  a  number  of  large  and  handsome  dwellings ;  it 
being  well  laid  out ;  the  streets  are  broad,  well  paved 
and  ornamented  with  shade  trees.  The  Union  College 
at  this  place,  is  a  celebrated  literary  institution,  loca- 
ted about  half  a  mile  from  the  city,  was  iounded  in 
1795,  is  truly  handsomely  situated,  the  grounds  taste- 
fully laid  out  and  the  buildings  large  and  handsome. 

Montgomery  county, — In  passing  through  this  beau- 
tiful county,  I  passed  through  a  number  of  very  flour- 
ishing villages,  among  which  are  Hoffman's  Ferry, 
Cran's  Village,  Amsterdam,  having  a  population  ol  5,- 
333,  Tribe's  Hill,  Fanda,  Yost,  Spaker,  Palatine  Bridge, 
Fort  Plain,  Palatine  Church  and  St.  Johns ville,  all  re- 
markable for  their  prosperity.  The  town  of  Amster- 
dam is  beautifully  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Mohawk  river,  about  15  miles  up  the  river  from  the 
city  of  Schenectady.  The  town  is  well  laid  out  and 
contains  some  fine  private  dwellings,  and  several  beau- 
tiful, well  built  churches,  situated  on  fine  streets.  The 
town  is  finely  situated  for  business,  the  Utica  and  Sche- 


nectady 
county 
Frankfo 
habitant 
river  ;  t 
the  nort 
a  very 
Falls,  tl 
red  to  » 
Trentor 
Onei 
tion  of 
branch 
the  site 
fort  of ! 
to  the  I 
this  for 
Leger, 
of  Oris 
8urren( 
haughi 
rison  \ 
render 
theBi 
to  con 
theB 
said  V 
get  01 
outsic 
come 
-a  deg 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


107 


the 

md  is 
-uated 
culti- 
ttrac- 
ecity 

Troy 


nectady  railroad  passing  through  the  place.  Herkimet 
county  contains  the  towns  of  Manhiem,  Little  Falls, 
Frankford  and  Herkimer,  containing  nearly  4000  in- 
habitants each,  all  beautifully  situated  on  the  Mohawk 
river  ;  the  village  of  Herkimer  being  at  the  junction  of 
the  northern  and  western  branches.  The  towns  are  in 
a  very  flourishing  condition.  At  the  town  of  Little 
Falls,  there  is  a  considerable  waterfall,  which  is  admi- 
red to  some  extent,  notwithstanding  its  proximity  to 
Trenton  Falls. 

Oneida  county, — The  city  of  Utica,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  12,190,  is  delightfully  situated  on  the  western 
branch  of  the  Mohawk  river,  on  its  southern  bank,  on 
the  site  of  Fort  Schuyler,  which  appears  to  have  been  a 
fort  of  great  importance  during  our  revolution.  It  was 
to  the  noble  and  patriotic  Gansevoort,  commander  of 
this  fort,  then  situated  in  a  perfect  wilderness,  that  St. 
Leger,  the  British  commander,  afler  the  bloody  battle 
of  Oriskany,  sent  a  messenger  with  a  summons  for  its 
surrender.  The  daring  commander  coolly  read  the 
haughty  summons,  which  threatened  him  and  his  gar- 
rison  with  the  Indians,  if  he  did  not  voluntarily  sur- 
render the  fort.  The  same  daring  Gansevoort  wrote 
the  British  commander  a  stern  reply,  refusing  thereby 
to  comply  with  his  request ;  and  when  handing  it  to 
the  British  messenger,  looking  him  full  in  the  face, 
said  with  all  the  sarcasm  he  was  made  of,  "after  you 
get  out  of  the  fort,  you  may  turn  round  and  look  at  the 
outside,  but  never  expect  to  come  in  again,  unless  you 
come  a  prisoner.  I  consider  the  message  you  brought 
-a  degrading  one  for  a  British  officer  to  send,  and  by  no 


lOS 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 


mcaDs  a  reputable  one  for  a  British  officer  to  carry. — 
For  my  own  part,  beibre  I  would  consent  to  deliver 
this  garrison  to  such  a  murderous  set  as  )'our  army  by 
your  own  account,  consists  of,  I  would  suffer  my  body 
to  be  filled  with  splinters  and  set  on  fire,  as  you  know 
has  at  times  been  practised  by  such  hordes  of  women 
and  children  killers,  as  belong  to  your  army." 

Thus  was  saved  FortJSchuyler,  by  the  noble  daring 
of  its  commander  :  and  while  the  heroic  Stark  was  stri- 
king  Gen.  Bur^-oyne  a  staggering  blow  at  Bennington, 
in  Vermont,  the  commander  ot  this  fort  broke  up  his 
plans  with  regard  to  St.  Leger,  who  was  to  decend  the 
Mohawk  river,  crush  every  thing  in  his  passage,  and 
meet  him  at  the  city  of  Albany,  on  the  Hudson  river. 
Thus  Burgoyne,  by  the  valor  of  fort  Schuyler,  did  not 
succeed  in  hemming  in  the  American  army,  as  he  an- 
ticipated ;  but  found  himself  locked  in  on  every  side, 
and  the  heavens  gathering  blackness  over  his  head,  till 
the  intrepid  Arnold  gave  him  the  finishing  blow  on  the 
bloody  plains  of  Saratoga,  where  he  was  compelled  to 
surrender  soon  afterwards. 

The  city  which  now  occupies  the  memorable  emi- 
nence on  which  stood  the  ioi-t,  received  a  charter  in 
1830.  The  city  contains  many  fine  dwellings  and  sev- 
eral splendid  public  buildings,  among  which  may  be  na- 
med the  State  Lunatic  Asylum,  built  of  grey  stone,  one 
of  the  largest  and  best  conducted  institutions  of  the  kind 
perhaps  in  the  United  States,  being  550  feet  in  length, 
50  feet  deep  and  cost  about  $350,000.  The  Erie  ca- 
nal passes  through  the  city,  and  is  crossed  by  a  number 
of  beautiful  and  substantial  bridges. 


TLAttii  OF  OlllSIvANY 


109 


While  at  this  city  I  visited  the  plains  of  Oriskany, 
situated  near  this  place,  which  is  celebrated  for  the 
complete  surprise  olthe  Americans  under  the  command 
of  Gen.  Herkimer,  by  the  British  and  Indians  under 
the  command  of  St.  Leger,  during  the  seige  of  fort 
Schuyler.  This  bloody  field  is  a  semicircular  in  form, 
and  the  road  on  which  Herkimer  was  marching  dipped 
into  a  deej)  ravine,  crossed  by  a  causeway  of  logs,  over 
which  he  had  passed,  when  the  Indians  with  a  terrific 
yell,  closed  in  his  rear,  and  took  possession  of  the  cause- 
way, and  thus  cooped  him  up  in  a  little  semicircular 
spot  of  woods,  in  which  took  place  that  terrible  conflict 
which  will  lorever  stand  as  a  monument  of  American 
valor. 

At  the  city  of  Utica  I  lelt  my  main  route,  which 
was  west,  and  went  up  the  north  branch  of  the  Mohawk 
river,  a  distance  of  about  10  miles,  for  the  purpose  of 
seeing  Trenton  Falls,  which  is  truly  a  grand  waterfall. 
The  town  of  Trenton  contaiiifi  a  population  of  3178,  and 
is  a  very  beautiful  town  situated  within  a  mile  of  the 
Falls.  The  Falls  can  be  viewed  on  either  side  of  the 
river,  there  being  a  path  constructed  down  each  of  the 
precipices,  by  blasting  the  rocks  ;  this  path,  Jiowever, 
at  some  places  is  very  narrow^,  at  which  places  there  is 
a  chain  let  into  the  rock,  which  answers  as  a  kind  o| 
banister,  to  which  the  passenger  can  hold,  to  make  his 
aseent  or  descent  more  secure.  After  following  down 
this  dangerous  path  some  distance,  it  brings  him  below 
the  Falls,  where  the  scene  impresses  him  with  awe  ; 
the  waters  roar  through  very  deep  chasms  between  two 
walls  of  rock  about  150  [eet  in   perpendicular  height 


no 


TRENTON  I'ALLS. 


I 


and  not  more  than  40  or  50  feet  wide.  The  strata  of 
the  rock  are  so  equally  divided  that  they  appear  like  a 
solid  wall  of  masonry  to  the  height  of  GO  or  70  feet 
above  the  rushing  waters.  Above  that  height,  the  pre- 
cipice presents  a  rough  appearance,  and  contains 
some  small  bushes,  which  continue  to  near  the  summit, 
which  is  crowned  with  splendid  forest  trees,  some  of 
them  inclining  over  the  mighty  chasm,  as  if  they 
would  peep  into  the  abyss  below,  and  witness  the  tu- 
mult of  the  waters.  As  the  stranger  stands  in  this  deep 
narrow  chasm,  he  is  hid  from  the  sight  of  all,  except 
those  who  accompany  him.  Owing  to  the  height  of 
the  precipices,  which  are  arched  by  the  towering  for- 
est trees  above,  but  a  small  portion  of  the  heavens  can 
be  seen,  and  what  little  can  be  ^een,  is  not  blue,  but  of 
a  misty,  murky  grey.  In  this  condition  the  first  sen- 
sation is  that  of  dizziness,  and  confusion,  from  the  un- 
usual absence  of  the  sky  above,  and  the  dashing  fran- 
tic speed  of  the  angry  boiling  waters  at  your  feet. — 
This  part  of  the  scene  is  called  the  rapids,  and  I  con- 
sidered them  much  grander  than  the  Falls  themselves ; 
for  here  is  one  rapid  confined  down  in  a  deep  narrow 
chasm,  between  two  river  rocks,  which  is  painful  to 
look  upon  and  watch  its  deep  and  mighty  plunge  and 
with  what  irresist^able  force  the  waters  dash  down,  & 
then  return  to  their  own  surface,  apparently  as  if 
struorcclii^s:  and  out  of  breath. 

The  stranger  in  standing  over  this  angry  rapid,  ga- 
zing over  its  wild  career,  and  listening  to  their  roar- 
ing, and  marking  the  madness  of  their  speed,  he  will 
feel  a  sensation  of  awe,  an  inward  acknowledgment  of 


TRENTON  FALLS. 


Ill 


the  tremendous  powers  of  Nature.  He  now  leaves  the 
angry  rapid  and  aacends  the  narrow  path,  till  he  arrives 
at  the  lower  falls,  which  generally  extends  over  only 
about  half  the  rock,  the  other  being  bare,  till  it  is  o- 
verflowed  by  a  freshet.  Over  half  the  rock  pours 
a  very  rapid  column  of  water,  with  the  greatest  impet- 
uosity. Above  the  fall  is  a  wooden  bridge,  over  which 
a  person  may  pass  to  the  other  side ;  the  bridge  passes 
over  a  series  of  little  falls,  resembling  a  staircase,  which 
is  truly  very  picturesque. 

The  stranger  may  now  ascend  the  river  to  the  up- 
per falls,  or  he  may  climb  up  a  ladder,  perhaps  one 
hundred  feet  long,  which  will  bring  him  to  a  footing, 
from  which  he  has  a  fine  view  of  the  upper  falls  which 
seem  tame,  after  witnessing  the  savage  impetuosity  of 
the  rapids  below,  from  which  footing  he  may  descend 
again  the  same  ladder,  or  he  may  ascend  another  one 
of  considerable  length,  which  will  bring  him  to  the 
summit,  where  he  will  find  a  path  marked  out  by  the 
broad  chip  of  the  woodman's  axe,  which  he  may  fol- 
low to  the  upper  falls,  where  he  will  find  the  scene 
splendid,  the  mountain  rising  high  on  one  side  of  the 
river,  while  he  casts  his  eye  down  the  deep  chasm, 
with  its  black  perpendicular  rocks,  between  which  are 
a  succession  of  falls,  while  his  ear  is  saluted  by  the 
roaring  of  the  mighty  rapids  below,  which  are  over- 
shadowed with  tall  forest  trees  rising  toward  the  clouds, 
while  through  their  majestic  boughs,  the  vapor  ascends 
in  sublime  grandeur,  from  the  falling  waters  beneath 
them.        ' 

The  faces- of  manv  of  the  rocks  about  the  falls,  are  as 


j| 


112 


MOHAWK  YALLUV. 


is  usually  the  case  scribbled  over,  by  those  who  would 
obtain  cheap  celebrity}  many  of  the  scribblers  have  a 
name  and  nothing  more,  as  many  of  their  productions 
are  more  gross  than  witty.  From  one  of  these  rocks 
which  form  the  mighty  precipice  on  each  side  of  the 
deep  gulf,  a  very  sad  accident  happened  a  few  years 
ago.  A  young  lady  from  the  city  of  New  York,  came 
with  some  of  her  friends  to  see  the  falls  ;  she  approach- 
ed the  edge  of  one  of  the  highest  rocks,  and  while  look- 
ing down  into  the  awiul  chasm  beneath,  and  her  friends 
not  being  near  enough  to  protect  her,  she  fell  from  the 
verge  of  the  cliff  on  which  she  was  standing,  to  a  great 
depth  below,  and  was  instantly  killed  by  the  fall. 

From  Trenton  Falls,  I  again  steered  my  course  west 
where  I  arrived  at  Rome,  having  a  population  of  5680, 
which  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  western  branch  of 
the  Mohawk  river,  in  an  attractive  and  fertile  region 
of  country,  being  situated  on  the  Utica  and  Syracuse 
railroad,  and  at  the  junction  of  the  Black  river  Canal, 
with  the  Erie  Canal,  it  therefore  has  a  communication 
with  Lake  Ontario,  by  the  way  of  Sackets  Harbour,  & 
Lake  Erie  in  the  west  and  the  Hudson  river  in  the  east, 
by  means  of  the  Erie  canal.  The  town  is  a  busy,  hand- 
some and  flourishing  place,  well  built  and  laid  out, 
containing  several  large  and  elegant  church  edifices. 

By  the  time  I  arrived  at  this  place,  I  viewed  with 
surprise  the  numerous  handsome  and  flourishing  cities, 
towns  and  villages  which  I  passed  through  since  leav- 
ing the  city  of  Schenectady,  situated  down  the  Mo- 
hawk valley  about  90  miles.  My  surprise  was  still  in- 
creased, when  informed  that  they  were  more  numer- 


ous fron 
route  I 
portunit 
torprise 
found  tl 
bling  vi 
ment,  ir 
tod  with 
where  b 
met  the 
feet  cha 
these  hij 
most  floi 
dations  ^ 
gion  aln 
whole  o 
the  fovei 
to  repin 
of  those 
the  unh 
here  no^ 
changed 
attracti\ 
wide  th 
wildnes! 
and  the 
Buf  t 
enliven 
Here,  ii 
pomp  ai 
coming 


iTtOuriEsa  OF  tiiu  co until y. 


lu 


uus  from  Rome  westward,  than  on  tho  Mohawk,  the 
route  I  had  just  came.  Here  then,  I  had  another  op- 
portunity of  reading  in  hold  characters,  the  noble  en- 
terprise and  industry  of  the  northern  man.  Here  I 
found  the  country,  as  it  were  ahnost  one  continued  ram- 
bling village,  which  have  sprung  up  as  by  enchant- 
ment, in  a  region  a  few  years  ago  a  dense  forest,  spot- 
ted with  swamps,  covered  with  equatic  trees  and  shrubs, 
where  but  very  few  if  any  points  of  picturesque  beauty 
met  the  eye  ;  the  whole  presenting  nothing  but  a  per- 
fect charm  of  savage  wildness.  When  we  reflect  on 
these  highly  cultivated  regions,  bespangled  with  the 
most  flourishing  cities,  towns  and  villages,  whose  foun- 
dations were  laid  by  persons  still  living,  and  which  re- 
gion already  numbers  a  population  greater  than  the 
whole  of  the  aboriginal  hunting  tribes,  who  possessed 
the  forest  for  hundreds  of  miles  around,  we  soon  cease 
to  repine  at  the  extraordinary  revolution  in  the  history 
of  those  tribes,  however  much  we  may  commiserate 
the  unhappy  fate  of  the  disinherited  race. — Because 
here  now  the  noble  enterprise  of  the  white  man  has  so 
changed  the  aspect  of  this  region,  that  upon  every  hand 
attractive  beauty  meets  the  eye ;  and  here  now  far  and 
wide  the  aboriginal  forest  has  lost  its  charms  of  savage 
wildness,  by  the  beauties  of  cities,  towns  and  villages, 
and  the  intrusion  of  railroads  and  canals. 

Buf  there  are  also  other  objects  of  intense  interest  to 
enliven  or  excite  the  imagination  of  every  traveller. — 
Here,  instead  of  dwelling  on  the  past,  he  sees  signs  of 
pomp  and  splendour,  filling  the  mind  with  images  ol 
coming  power  and  grandeur,     The  vast  strides  made 


114. 


TOWNS    AND    VILLAGEtS. 


by  ono  generation  in  a  brief  space  of  time,  naturally 
disposes  us  to  look  forward  with  an  eager  eye,  to  the 
rapid  rate  of  future  improvement.  The  contemplation 
of  so  much  prosperity,  such  entire  absence  of  poverty 
or  want,  so  many  schoolhouscs  and  churches  rising  ev- 
ery where  within  his  view  in  this  new  region,  and 
such  a  general  desire  of  education  ;  with  a  conscious- 
ness that  a  great  continent  lies  beyond,  which  has  ftiH 
to  be  appropriated,  fill  the  traveller  with  cheering 
thoughts  and  sanguine  hopes.  He  may,  however,  be 
reminded  that  there  is  another  side  to  the  picture  ;  that 
where  the  success  has  been  so  brilliant,  and  where  large 
fortunes  have  been  hastily  realised,  there  will  be  rash 
speculations  and  bitter  disappointments;  but  these  ideas 
do  not  force  themselves  into  the  reveries  oi  the  passing 
stranger.  He  sees  around  him  the  solid  fruits  of  victo- 
ry, and  forgets  that  many  a  soldier  in  the  foremost 
ranks,  has  fallen  in  the  breach  3  and  cold  indeed  would 
be  his  temperament  if  he  did  not  sympathize  with  the 
freshness  and  hopefulness  of  a  new  country  like  this, 
and  feel  as  men  past  the  prime  of  life  are  accustomed 
to  feel,  when  in  company  with  the  young  who  are  full 
of  health  and  buoyant  spirits,  of  faith  and  confidence 
in  the  future. 

We  found  our  route  from  Rome  to  the  city  of  Au- 
burn, through  the  counties  of  Madison  and  Onondaga, 
one  continued  scene  of  interest,  being  lined  with  flour- 
ishing towns  and  villages,  whose  enterprising  inhabi- 
tants were  busily  engaged  in  profiting  by  the  impulse 
given  to  trade  by  the  Erie  canal  and  the  Utica  and  Sy- 
racuse railroad  j  among  which  are  Cl^crona,  Oneida,  on 


11( 


OKONDAGA  SALT  bmiNCS. 


115 


a  lake  of  the  same  name,  celebrated  for  its  beauty,  be- 
ing 21  miles  in  length  with  pure  transparent  water. — 
Also,  the  towns  of  Wampsvillc,  Canastota,  Conasara- 
ga,  Chittenango,  Kirkville,  Manlius,  De  Witt,  all  con- 
taining from  3000  to  6000  inhabitants;  Syracuse,  with 
6500  inhabitants;  Salina,  with  11,113 inhabitants,  with 
the  towns  of  Liverpool  and  Geddcs,  constitute  the  scat 
of  the  famous  Onondaga  Salt  works,  which  are  the  prop- 
erty of  the  State.  The  manufacturers  pay  the  State  a 
duty  of  six  cents  a  buihel.  These  four  towns  produce 
over  3,000,000  bushels  of  salt  annually,  of  which  Sy- 
racuse makes  between  7  and  800,000  bushels  ;  every 
forty-five  gallons  of  water  yielding  a  bushel  of  salt.  A 
large  quantity  of  the  salt  manufactured  at  these  springs 
is  sent  out  of  the  State,  and  finds  consumers  in  perhaps 
every  State  in  the  Union,  as  the  article  of  Liverpool 
salt  is  popular  with  almost  every  person.  The  Erie 
canal  carries  it  east  and  west  from  the  salt  works,  and 
the  Oswego  canal  carries  it  north  ;  the  two  canals  form- 
ing a  junction  at  the  Salt  Springs  ;  between  which  and 
Auburn  are  the  towns  of  Brookway,  Camilliusand  Ska- 
neateles,  the  latter  on  a  lake  of  the  same  name,  famous 
for  the  beauties  of  its  waters  and  the  scenery  of  its  bor- 
ders. 

Auburn,  with  6171  inhabitants,  is  delightfully  loca- 
ted on  Owasco  Lake,  26  miles  from  the  Salt  Springs. 
It  is  a  very  flourishing  town,  regularly  laid  out,  con- 
taining broad  streets,  finely  ornamented  with  avenues 
of  shade  trees.  The  Empire  State  has  here  one  of  her 
Penitentiaries,  which  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $500,000. 
This  structure  occupies  a  large  extent  of  ground,  sur- 


no 


AUUUnN. 


rounded  by  a  stone  wall  3000  feet  in  length,  30  feet  In 
height  and  four  feet  thick;  on  the  top  of  which  are  c- 
rected  six  or  eight  watch  towers,  so  constructed  that 
by  opening  the  doors  facing  the  walls  lengthwise,  the 
guard  can  pass  and  repass  on  the  top  of  the  wall  around 
the  enclosure.  A  agnail  lee  will  procure  admittance, 
and  the  scenes  presented  to  view  return  a  rich  equiva- 
lent for  the  pittance  required.  By  ascending  to  the 
top  of  the  building  by  means  of  a  spiral  stair-case,  a  ve- 
ry delightiul  prospect  is  presented,  which  embraces  a 
view  of  the  whole  surrounding  country,  which  presents 
all  that  a  rural  population  can  make  it ;  while  the  fine 
public  buildings  and  dwellings,  with  their  ornamental 
trees,  whose  graceful  boughs  and  verdant  leaves  pre- 
sented a  scene  alike  charming  and  enlivening.  A  walk 
or  two  around  the  top  of  the  wall  in  company  with 
the  guard,  is  also  interesting,  who  in  their  promenade 
round  the  walls,  take  a  delight  to  all  appearance,  in 
entertaininoj  and  delightinoj  the  stranger,  who  in  his 
rounds  has  fine  opportunities  of  seeing  many  of  the 
convicts  at  their  labor ;  it  also  affords  him  a  view  of 
that  part  of  the  town  immediately  around  the  wall. — - 
The  prison-house  is  constructed  of  a  species  of  rough 
grey  stone,  well  hewn,  so  that  the  walls  of  the  build- 
ing present  a  handsome  appearance  for  a  building  of  the 
kind.  The  town  also  contains  a  Theological  Semina- 
ry, founded  in  1821,  which  is  said  to  be  in  a  very  flour- 
ishing condition  ;  a  large  and  splendid  Court  House, 
with  a  strong  and  handsome  Jail  near  by  ;  together  with 
other  county  buildings  possessing  considerable  elegance, 
adding  in  a  great  degree  to  the  beauty  of  the  town.    It 


LAKES  CAYUGA  &  SENRCA. 


117 


U  still  more  improved  by  a  large  and  elegant  Musfum, 
filled  with  a  choice  collection  of  curiosities,  several 
handsome  hanking  houses  and  eight  or  ten  churches. 

To  the  west  ot  Auburn  are  Lakes  Cayuga  and  Sene- 
ca, situate '1  nearly  due  north  and   south,    36   miles  in 
length  and  from  3  to  4  miles  in  width,  running  parallel 
with  each  other,  having  a  belt  of  land  between  4  or  5 
miles  wide,  which  constitutes  the   county  of  Seneca, 
possessing  soil  of  the  most  admirable  quality,  which  is 
tilled  with  a  superior  degree  of  skill  and  intelligence. 
Lakes  Cayuga  and  Seneca  are  admired  by  every  trav- 
eller for  the  beauty  and  grandeur  they  posscsi.  A  more 
delightful  trip  no  man  can  possibly  take  than  a  ride  up 
and  down  these  handsome  Lakes,  on  board  one  of  the 
elegant  little  steamers  which  sail  regularly  over  their 
beautiful  waters,  while  the  golden  rays  of  the  meredi- 
an  sun  add  sublimity  to  the  bright  transparent  waters, 
spread  out  in  a  smooth  expanse,  glittering  on  every 
hand  almost  with  the  brilliancy  of  liquid  gold  ;    while 
beyond  the  glittering  bosom  can  be  seen  a  Ifcrndscape.^ 
possessing  all  the  charms  a  rural  scene  can  present. — 
The  waters  of  Lake  Seheca  are  drawn  out  by  Seneca 
river,  soon  after  which  they  fall  perpendicularly  a  con- 
siderable height,  creating  an   immense    water-power ; 
where  is  situated  a  town  of  4281  inhabitants,  who  have 
largely  employed  the  power  thus  s/ffdrded,  'in  propel*- 
ling  various  factories  and   machinery.     The   town   is 
well  built  and  possesses  many  attractions,  being  situa- 
ted in  a  delightful  region  of  country,  whose  inhabitants 
appear  to  be  possessed  of  a  due  proportion  of  the  great 
prosperity  of  western  New  York. 


118 


GENESEE    VALLEY. 


'  Ontario  county, — The  town  of  Geneva,  with  4000 
inhabitants,  a  place  most  admirably  situated  at  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  Lake  Seneca,  is  built  on  high  and  com- 
manding ground,  embracing  a  deli;;;;htiul  view  of  the 
Lake  and  surrounding  country.  This  flourishing  town 
was  incorporated  in  1812,  and  is  now  one  of  the  most 
deli^-htful  towns  in  the  State.  This  countv,  as  well  as 
all  others  in  western  New  York,  is  adorned  with  nu- 
merous cities,  towns  and  villages,  among  which  are 
Oak  Corners,  East  Vienna,  West  Vienna,  Clifton,  Short- 
ville,  Chapansville,  Victor  and  Canandaigue,  which  has 
5652  inhabitants,  and  is  a  place  of  some  note  3  being 
situated  with  great  taste  at  the  northern  extremity  and 
outlet  of  Lake  Canandaigue,  another  delightful  lake  of 
fresh  water,  15  miles  in  length  and  several  miles  wide, 
also  distinguished  fof  its  beauty.  There  is  perhaps  no 
region  of  the  same  area  in  the  world,  that  can  boast  a 
greater  number  of  beautiful  inland  lakes  of  fresh  water 
than  can  western  New  York. 

Monroe  county. — This  county  contains  a  portion  of 
the  farfamed  valley  of  the  Genesee,  so  much  celebrated 
for  its  superior  quality  of  wheat,  and  for  its  skillful  and 
excellent  mode  of  agriculture.  This  great  valley  may 
be  called  a  great,  luxuriant  meadow,  chequered  by 
patches  of  wheat,  corn  and  other  grains,  presenting  no 
hills,  rocks,  bluffs  nor  ravines  ;  but  an  expanse  of  the 
most  luxuriant  verdure  that  a  great  valley  can  present, 
populated  by  inhabitants  from  whom  the  traveller  may 
learn  manv  valuable  lessons  in  the  science  of  a^ricul- 
ture;  a  valley,  rendered  by  the  busy  intelligence  of  its 
population  in  the  agricultural  art,  so  perfect,  that  the 


professic 
lawyer, 

Roch( 
ly  situat 
tion  wit 
was  occ 
ty  is  di^ 
crossed 
nal  pass 
river  b}' 
structed 
duct  IS  1 
haps  is 
in  the  I 
place,  a 
falls  in 
and  ere 
is  empl 
the  woi 

Ther 
ishing  ( 
themse] 
est  to  a 
number 
led  by 
laro-e  ai 
church 
ing  Co] 
public  1 
merce. 
Falls  fo 


nociicsTZR. 


119 


])rofeBsion  of  Iho  farmer  is  envied  by  the  travelling 
lawyer,  physician  and  merchant. 

Rochester,  with  a  population  of  25,265,  is  handsome- 
ly situated  on  the  Genesee  river,  7  miles  fr>m  its  junc- 
tion with  Lake  Ontario.  In  the  year  1812,  the  site 
was  occupied  by  two  wooden  buildings  only.  The  ci- 
ty is  divided  by  the  river  into  two  parts.  The  river  is 
crossed  by  three  very  beautiful  bridges.  The  Erie  ca- 
nal passes  through  the  city,  and  crosses  the  Genesee 
river  by  means  ol  an  aqueduct  804"  feet  in  length,  con- 
structed at  an  expense  of  $80,000,  which  splendid  aque- 
duct is  built  on  ten  arches  of  hewn  stone,  which  per- 
haps is  not  excelled  in  beauty  and  strength  for  its  kind 
in  the  United  States.  The  Genesee  Falls  are  at  this 
place,  and  have  a  fall  of  215  feet,  which  distance  it 
falls  in  three  successive  leaps,  of  90,  20  and  105  feeiy 
and  create  an  immense  water  power,  a  part  of  which 
is  employed  in  running  22  of  the  largest  flour  mills  in 
the  world,  at  least  so  claimed  by  the  city. 

There  are  also  at  this  city,  several  large  and  flour- 
ishing cotton  and  woollen  manufactories,  which  are 
themselves  a  sufficient  curiosity  for  several  hours  inter- 
est to  a  stranger,  in  addition  to  which  there  are  a  great 
number  of  other  manufacturing  establishments  propel- 
led by  this  great  water  power.  The  city  contains  6 
large  and  splendid  banking  houses,  23  large  and  superb 
churches,  a  very  celebrated  museum,  a  very  flourish- 
ing Collegiate  institution,  together  with  several  other 
public  buildings.  The  city  is  well  situated  for  com- 
merce, the  Genesee  river  being  navigable  up  to  the 
Falls  for  vessels,  together  with  the  famous  Erie   canal, 


126 


L  E  11  O  Y    F  A  L  L  fj  * 


which  passes  through  the  heart  of  the  city,  wliich  id 
crossed  by  a  great  number  of  the  most  beautiful  arched 
bridges.  The  city  presents  attractions,  which  many 
others  of  equal  size  do  not  possess,  as  there  is  no  other 
of  equal  size  which  can  boast  of  a  more  fertile,  highly 
and  skillully  cultivated  region,  inhabited  by  a  rural 
population,  alike  celebrated  for  their  intelligence,  hos- 
pitality and  enterprise. 

Genesee  county. — The  lands  of  this  celebrated  coun- 
ty, with  the  famous  proprietors,  deserve  all  the  praise 
that  can  be  lavished  upon  them ;  for  here  the  stranger 
finds  all  order,  neatness,  fertility,  prosperity,  intelli- 
gence, hospitality,  enterprise  and  industry  ;  the  lands 
and  inhabitants  to  all  appearance,  are  destitute  of  no- 
thing that  is  calculated  to  adorn  and  beautify  either  the 
one  or  the  other* 

LeRoy,  with  a  population  of  4323,  is  a  verv  beauti- 
ful town,  situated  on  the  western  branch  of  the  Gene- 
see river,  at  which  place  is  situated  the  LeRoy  Falls,  a 
scene  possessing  many  beauties,  which  Avilltichl}'-  re- 
pay the  trouble  and  small  expense  incurred  by  the  trav- 
>3ller,  in  leaving  the  railroad  a  few  miles  for  the  pur- 
pose of  paying  it  a  visit.  It  is  a  very  beautiful  little 
cascade  of  considerable  height,  which  is  seen  to  have 
been  cutting  its  way  backwards  through  the  rocks,  as 
is  usually  the  case  with  waterfalls.  This  cascade  has 
hollowed  out  a  deep  ravine,  with  perpendicular  sides 
of  very  considerable  height. 

'In  addition  to  LeRoy,  are  the  towns  of  Batavia,  Al- 
exandria and  Attica,  having-  each  3500  inhabitants,  be- 
ing promising,  handsome  towns,  containing  many   fine 


dwellin] 
adorned 
gives  th 
around 
tion  of  t 
the  regi 
been  fai 
ty.  Th 
ges,  wh; 
which  r 
ern  Ne\ 
a  state  c 
villages 
situated, 
the  subu 
another, 
by  the  ] 
cm  Nev 


Buffalo- 
Lake  £ 
■titutio 
linghoi 
Yards- 
— Linn 
prepari 
Kinds  ( 
on  the 

Erie  ( 
iaget  of 


B UfPaL  0. 


lU 


dwellings,  with  5  or  6  very  elegant  churches  in  each, 
adorned  with  the  choicest  species  of  shade  trees,  which 
gives  the  towns  an  attractive  and  delightful  appearance, 
around  which  the  country  is  possessed  of  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  same  system  of  order  and  neatness  for  which 
the  region  is  so  much  celebrated,  which  has  already 
been  faintly  sketched.  The  soil  is  of  admirable  quali- 
ty. The  country  also  contains  many  flourishing  villa- 
ges, which  have  just  sprung  up  as  by  enchantment ; 
which  may  be  said  of  all  the  cities  and  towns  in  west- 
ern New  York,  with  all  other  improvements  in  so  high 
a  state  of  perfection.  The  principal  cities,  towns  and 
villages  only  have  been  noticed,  they  being  so  closely 
situated,  that  in  places  the  traveller  scarcely  leaves 
the  suburbs  of  one  town  before  he  comes  in  sight  of 
another,  which  have  arisen  by  the  great  impulse  given 
by  the  Erie  canal  and  railroad,  and  has  thus  made  west- 
ern New  York  literally  a  theatre  ot  towns. 


-•-^^«- 


CHAPTER    XI. 

Buffalo — Lo2ation — Destruction  by  the  Britieii— Erie  Canal — 
Lake  Erie — Commerce — Breakwater — Ciiurches— Literary  in- 
■titutiona — Orphan  Asylum — High  State  ofAgriculture-Dwel- 
linghouses — Dairy  houses — Barns  — Tanks— M  uck  Heap-Barn 
Yards — Manures — Reflections — Ashes — Mode  of  using  Ashes 
—Lime — Agency  of  Lime — Modes  of  using  Lime — Mode  of 
preparing  land  for  Wheat — Advantages  of  subsoil  plowing — 
Kinds  of  Wheat — S.iring  crop — Rotation  in  cro^js — Remarks 
on  the  state  of  Agric'ilture. 

Erie  county, — Near  the  city  of  Buffalo  are  the  vil- 
lage! ot  Lancaster  and  Cheektawaga,  noted  for  thelv 


\T2 


B  I-  f  r  A  4  tf  . 


prosperity,  which  two  villages  partake  largely  a(  ih^ 
life  and  bustle  of  that  celebrated  city.  The  surround- 
ing region  is  animated  by  a  population,  who  are  each 
cheerfully  doing  their  part  towards  sustaining  and  car- 
rying forward  the  great  agricultural  improvements  ©f 
their  region,  in  which  they  pride  as  the  most  healthlul, 
the  most  useful  and  the  most  noble  omployment  of  man. 

Buffalo,  has  a  population  ol  29,773.  This  great  city 
is  advantageously  and  beautifully  situated  on  a  com- 
manding eminence,  overlooking  Lake  Erie,  on  whose 
•astern  extremity  it  is  situated.  The  city  is  regularly 
laid  out  and  well  built,  and  contains  a  great  number  of 
very  large  warehouses  and  manufactories.  This  great 
city,  with  many  others  in  western  New  York,  has 
sprung  up  with  surprising  impetuosity,  in  the  very  bo- 
som of  the  wilderness.  It  was  not  till  so  late  as  the 
year  1801,  at  which  date  it  was  first  laid  out,  and  the 
whole  destroyed  by  the  British  during  the  late  war 
with  England,  for  which  unfortunate  disaster,  the  suf- 
ferers received  from  the  General  Government,  the  sum 
of  $80,000.  The  present  city  therefore,  has  sprung 
up  since  that  event,  viz  :  the  year  1815. 

The  great  prosperity  of  the  city  is  chiefly  caused  by 
the  Erid  canal,  which  connects  it  with  the  city  of  Al- 
bany. In  addition  to  the  canal,  the  trade  on  Lake  E- 
rie  is  very  extensive.  The  city  as  before  said,  is  very 
advantageously  situated  and  regularly  laid  out ;  and  so 
far  as  I  am  capable  of  judging,  it  is  destined  in  a  few 
years  to  rival  our  third  class  cities  ;  as  it  has  already  a- 
bout  60  steamboats  employed  in  running  to  and  from 
its  port  to  different  ports  on  the  Lakes.     In  addition  to 


AftfllctrL-fuRtf. 


itn 


which  there  are  3t)0  sloops,  schooners  and  brigs  on  the 
Lake,  most  of  which  exccml  200  tons  burden,  tho  lar- 
ger portion  of  which  frequent  the  port  of  iJiiirilo, 
M'here  scores  of  them  can  be  seen  ut  a  time. 

At  the  mouth  of  Baflalo  ('reek,  tMtTc  is  a  Br- rk wa- 
ter erected  for  the  purpose  of  )  roteclini;  vessels  from 
the  hi;^h  waves  ol  the  Liki',  during;  the  time  they  re- 
main in  the  harbour.  This  «^reat  improvement  consists 
of  a  stone  pier,  1500  feet  in  len^^tb,  on  which  i^  situ- 
ated a  licrhthouse.  The  city  contains  20  large  ana 
splendid  churches  and  Exchange,  a  costly  and  superb 
structure,  a  massive  building  occu])ied  as  a  Theatre, 
several  thriving  literary  institutions,  and  a  well  con- 
ducted Orphao  Asylum. 

By  the  time  I  arrived  at  this  place  from  the  city  of 
Albany,  by  travelling  up  the  Mohawk  valley  &  through 
western  New  York,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  viewing 
many  splendid  farms,  skilfully  and  highly  cultivated, 
and  of  examining^  some  farm  buildings  with  their  vari- 
ous  appendages,  which  I  generally  found  to  be  sub- 
stantial, well  planned  and  answering  a  good  purpose, 
I  found  the  hospitable  and  intelligent  proprietors  haci 
no  disposition  to  conceal  an}'"  part  of  their  excellent 
mode  of  agriculture;  but  to  all  appearance  were  ever 
as  ready  and  willing  to  give  information  as  the  stran-- 
ger  could  possibly  be  to  ask  it,  in  all  matters  concern-* 
ing  their  prospering  system  of  agriculture.  The  foK 
lowing  are  a  portion  of  the  facts  learned  from  this  ag-* 
ricultural  and  enterprising  people. 

Having  ever  considered  it  to  be  entirely  consistent 
with  the  character  of  a  farmer,  to  be  a  man  of  taste,  ai 


•m 


lU 


FARM  HOUSES. 


1  never  could  see  any  reason  why  ornamental  farming 
should  not  be  cultivated,  as  it  is  not  inconsistent  with 
the  highest  regard  to  profit  to  embellish  our  grounds 
and  habitations,  and  to  render  our  homes  as  beautiful 
as  a  simple  and  most  refined  taste  can  make  them« — 
And  on  my  route  through  this  fertile  and  agricultural 
region,  I  found  that  I  was  not  alone  ;  but  while  I  was 
only  thinking  on  the  matter,  they  were  executing  even 
many  plans  which  never  had  originated  with  me* — 
Here  I  found  every  attention  paid  to  this  matter  3  eve- 
rything being  neatness,  order,  taste  and  comfort.  Here 
the  stranger  observes  among  other  things,  that  the  great- 
est attention  is  paid  to  adorning  and  beautifying,  by  ev- 
ery man  his  own  domicil. 

Dwelling  Houses, — These  are  constructed  oi  the  best 
materials,  and  attention  paid  to  location  ;  a  naked  scorch- 
ing exposure  equally  with  a  dreary  one  are  avoided* — 
Jt  generally  occupies  a  position  easily  accessible  to  the 
other  buildings  and  fields,  and  yet  within  convenient 
distance  of  the  highway.  Many  of  the  buildings  are 
protected  by  a  light  scene  of  trees,  which  in  trhe  sum- 
mer season  afford  an  excellent  shade,  and  add  consider- 
able as  an  ornament  to  the  building,  which  is  every 
way  tastefully  built  and  always  has  an  excellent  cellar. 

The  Dairy, — There  are  very  few  of  these  to  be  found 
above  the  ground,  as  they  are  generally  situated  in  a 
hillside,  entirely  under  ground.  They  are  strongly 
and  neatly  walled  with  stone  or  brick,  which  wall  is 
sufficiently  tight  to  exclude  the  frort  When  there  ii 
no  hillside  in  which  they  can  be  placed,  they  are  con- 
atructed  on  level  ground,  by  sinking  them  3  or  4  feet 


BARNS. 


125 


la  tho  ground,  the  walls  raised  high  enough  above  to 
give  all  the  room  wanted,  the  excavated  earth  is  bank- 
ed around  the  house,  rendering  it  more  elevated  and 
pleasant,  which  embankment  is  well  sodded  \  the  whole 
80  constructed  as  to  admit  light  and  air  through  it  by 
means  of  small  windows,  which  have  a  curtain  of  wire 
gauze  to  exclude  the  flies. 

The  Barn  is  considered  the  most  important  appen- 
dage of  the  iarm ;  and  its  size  and  form  depends  very 
much  on  the  particular  wants  ol  the  owner.  They  are 
however  large  enough  to  hold  all  the  lodder  and  ani- 
mals on  the  farm.  Not  a  hoof  about  the  premises  is 
allowed  to  stand  out  and  brave  the  northern  winters ; 
but  they  are  all  sheltered  by  a  tight  roof  and  dry  bed, 
as  they  will  thrive  much  faster  and  consume  so  much 
less  food  when  thus  protected,  that  the  owner  will  be 
ten-fold  remunerated.  Many  of  the  stable  floors  are 
80  constructed  as  to  convey  the  urine  of  the  beasts  into 
a  muck  heap,  situated  in  the  barnyard  or  near  the  sta- 
bles or  sheds,  where  the  b  .^asts  are  stalled  ;  or  it  is  led 
off  by  troughs  in  a  tank,  which  is  constructed  for  hold- 
ing liquid  manure,  which  are  convenient  to  the  stable* 
and  yards.  These  generally  receive  every  particle  of 
the  urine  and  drainage  from  the  manure.  These  tanks 
are  variously  constructed ;  in  compact  clay  they  may 
be  made  by  simply  excavating  the  earth,  and  the  sides 
can  be  kept  from  falling  in  by  a  rough  wall,  or  planks 
supported  in  an  upright  position,  by  a  frame  work  of 
joice.  These  tanks  or  cisterns  in  all  cases  are  closely 
coverttd,  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the  ammonia  which 
is  developed  while  fermenting.     In  sand  or  gravelly 


\i 


m 


{!' 


V2G 


TANK* MUCK  HBATS. 


ioils  they  are  constructed  of  stone,  brick  or  wood, — in 
the  first  materials  a  cement  -s  necessary. 

When  these  are  partial. y  filled  with  liquid  manure, 
fermentalion  will  soon  commence  in  the  tank,  especial- 
ly in  warm  weatlier;  in  this  case  they  throw  in  gyp- 
sutn  or  charcoal  to  absorb  the  ammonia.  This  howev- 
er, h  not  always  done.  A  lew  days  after  decomposi- 
tion takes  place,  it  is  pumped  or  drawn  out  and  carried 
on  the  land.  If  they  intend  it  for  watering  trees  or 
plants,  they  dilute  it  water,  so  as  to  make  it  sufficient- 
ly weak  to  prevent  injury  to  them.  When  applied  to 
land,  the  quantity  will  depend  on  the  strength  of  the 
liquid.  Many  of  the  stables  and  troughs  which  lead  to 
the  tanks,  are  frequently  sprinkled  with  gypsum,  which 
absc '- )s  much  of  the  ammonia  which  would  otherwise 
escape.  Some  loss  of  the  volatile  matter  must  be  ex- 
pected, and  the  sooner  it  is  used  after  prsper  fermen- 
tation or  ripenehs,  as  if  is  termed,  the  better  will  be  the 
economy.  The  muck  heap  before  named,  consists  of 
earthy  and  vegetable  substances,  such  as  rich  turf,  the 
wash  of  the  roadside,  tan-bark,  saw-dust,  weeds  and 
grass  or  refuse  vegetables  of  any  kind  that  may  be  had, 
which  is  or  should  be  frequently  sprinkled  with  gyp- 
sum or  charcoal.  This  heap  is  protected  by  a  rough 
open  shed  or  roof,  to  prevent  drenching  from  rains. — 
This  heap  is  so  placed,  that  the  urine  and  liquid  ma- 
nure can  run  on  to  it,  or  is  deposited  where  it  can  be 
poured  over  it.  When  fully  saturated  with  the  urina- 
ry salts,  and  all  is  properly  decomposed,  it  may  be 
carried  out  for  use,  or  covered  with  earth  till  wanted. 

The  Barn  Yards  are  generally  formed  so   as  to   be 


Wishing 
draw  to 
heap  or 
sandy  o 
evered 
the  liqi 
possible 
80  that 
be  don( 
from  th 
convey 
use  of 
loss  of 
and  art 
they  us 
lime,  rr 
plaistei 
of  lime 
glaubei 
clay,  c 
amnion 
Itbt 
to  the 
may  b( 
in  the 
made  \ 
be,  tha 
16diff 

OUS  COl 

vious, 
vegeta 


UAEN   YARD* — MANURBt. 


127 


-la 


dishing  towards  the  centre,  so  that  the  liquid  will  all 
draw  to  that  place,  from  which  it  is  led  off  on  the  muck 
heap  or  into  the  tank  or  cistern.  If  the  barn  yard  be 
sandy  or  gravelly,  it  is  puddled  as  they  call  it,  or  cov- 
everod  with  clay,  to  prevent  the  leaking  and  escape  of 
the  liquid  manure.  The  yard  is  well  enclosed,  and  if 
possible  water  is  conveyed  into  the  yard  for  the  stock, 
80  that  they  may  not  be  removed.  When  this  cannot 
be  done,  large  cisterns  are  made,  and  the  rain-water 
from  the  eaves  of  the  buildings,  by  means  of  troughs  if 
conveyed  into  them,  from  which  it  is  pumped  for  the 
use  of  the  beasts.  Every  means  is  used  to  prevent  the 
loss  of  manure.  In  addition  to  their  excellent  mode 
and  arrangements  for  saving  and  accumulating  manure, 
they  use  and  recommend  the  use  of  ashes  of  any  kind, 
lime,  marls,  shell  sand,  green  sand  marls,  gypsum  or 
plaister  of  Paris,  bones,  (ground  or  crushed)  phosphate 
of  lime,  (sometimes  known  as  apatite  phosphorite,)  salt, 
glauber  salts,  saltpetre,  old  plaster,  broken  brick,  burnt 
clay,  charcoal,  broken  glass,  spent  lye  of  the  asheries, 
ammonical  liquor,  guano,  soot,  fish,  seaweed,  peat,  &c. 
It  becomes  then  a  matter  of  the  highest  consequence 
to  the  farmer  to  understand,  not  only  what  substances 
may  be  useful  as  manures,  but  also  how  to  apply  them 
in  the  best  manner  to  his  crops,  so  far  as  they  can  be 
made  profitable  ;  as  it  is  well  known,  or  at  least  should 
be,  that  all  fertile  soils  must  have  not  less  than  15  or 
16  different  simple  or  elementary  snbstances,  in  vari- 
ous combinations  with  each  other.  It  is  therefore  ob- 
vious, that  such  principles  as  all  fertile  soils  furnish  to 
vegetables,  must  be  contained  in  the  manure.     Henc# 


128 


MANURE — Annies. 


it  should  be  tho  object  of  every  farmer,  to  understand 
the  substances  which  go  to  form  the  plants  he  is  about 
to  cultivate,  in  order  that  he  may  know  how  to  supply 
such  substances  to  the  soil,  as  are  found  to  be  the  inor- 
ganic constituents  of  the  plant  he  proposes  to  grow. 

It  strikes  me  that  there  is  nothing  that  our  farmers 
understand  so  little,  as  the  economy  ol  manures.  It  ii 
generally  supposed  that  the  more  a  field  of  corn  is  ma- 
nured the  greater  will  be  the  crop,  as  Indian  corn  is 
one  of  the  grossest  feeders  in  vegetable  life,  it  produces 
in  proportion  to  the  aliment  it  receives;  but  these  en- 
terprising people,  aided  by  their  agricultural  chemis* 
try,  tell  us  that  a  large  portion  of  the  aliment  comes 
from  the  atmosphere,  therefore  a  moderate  quantity  of 
the  most  stimulating  manure  properly  applied,  with  a 
frequent  stirring  of  the  soil,  will  be  found  to  produce  a 
b«tter  growth  than  a  larger  quantity  of  the  most  active 
mantire  with  less  work.  It  is  generally  supposed  that 
when  the  weeds  are  subdued,  ihe  hoe  or  cultivator  has 
no  office  to  perform  ;  but  nature  reverses  this  decision, 
as  actual  experiment  invariably  proves,  the  frequent 
stirring  of  the  earth  lets  in  the  oxygen  of  the  atmos- 
phere, which  is  converted  by  the  humus  in  the  soil  in- 
to carbonate  acid,  to  be  absorbed  by  the  plants ;  which 
is  a  doctrine  very  well  founded. 

Ashes  is  pronounced  by  this  agricultural  people,  the 
best  of  the  saline  manures.  They  are  also  among  the 
most  economical,  as  from  our  free  use  of  fuel,  they  are 
largely  produced  by  almost  every  household.  Good 
husbandry  dictates  that  not  a  pound  of  ashes  should  be 
wasted  ;  but  all  should  be  saved  and  applied  to  the  lancjj 


and  who 

they  ad\ 

ashes  th 

the  unle 

their  po 

soil  wit 

ows  or 

improv( 

ciples  t 

The( 

acre,  m 

All  roo 

lucern, 

crs  of  t 

by  ash( 

the  cro 

and  for 

ced  wh 

a  small 

from  1 

double 

tity  m 

energy 

andg] 

etable 

tillage 

ow  la 

forth 

ly  00^ 

cmpl( 

large 


A  ft  71  R  S  . 


12(1 


and 

)OUt 

ply 


»nd  wIkmi  they  can  be  procured  at  a  r  usoiiabl'  prico, 
they  advise  that  it  be  purch!}sr^d  formai  uro.  L^^at  hod 
ashes  though  h:ss  valuable,  co:tain  all  the  eleinonts  ■.. 
the  unleached,  having  been  deprived  oidy  of  part  f 
their  potash  and  soda.  They  may  be  drilled  into  tl)e 
soil  with  roots  and  grain,  and  sown  broadcast  on  mead- 
ows or  pastures,  or  mixtxi  with  the  muck  heap.  They 
improve  all  soils  not  already  saturated  with  the  prin- 
ciples they  contain. 

The  quantity  of  ashes  that  should  be  applied  to  the 
acre,  must  depend  on  the  soil  and  crops  cultivated. — 
All  roots  such  as  potatoes,  turnips,  Sec,  and  also  clover, 
lucern,  peas,  beans,  and  the  grasses,  are  great  exhaust- 
ers of  the  salts,  and  are  consequently  much  benefitted 
by  ashes.  They  are  used  with  decided  advantage  for 
the  crops  just  named,  in  connection  with  bone-dust, 
and  for  clover  and  roots,  their  effects  are  much  enhan- 
ced when  mixed  with  gypsum.  Light  soils  should  have 
a  smaller  and  clay  soils  a  heavier  dressing  ;  the  former 
from  12  to  15  bushels  per  acre,  and  the  latter  near 
double  that  quantity ;  or  if  they  are  leached,  the  quan- 
tity may  be  increased  one-half,  as  they  act  with  less 
energy.  Repeated  dressings  of  ashes,  like  those  of  lime 
and  gypsum,  without  a  corresponding  addition  of  veg- 
etable or  barn  yard  manure,  will  eventually  exhaust 
tillage  lands.  Ashes  may  however  be  applied  to  mead- 
ow lands  for  a  longer  time  than  to  any  other  crops,  and 
for  this  obvious  reason  :  the  surface  of  the  soil  is  close- 
ly covered  with  vegetable  agents,  which  are  actively 
employed  ia  drawing  carbon  irom  the  air  and  soil,  a 

large  portion  of  which  are  stored  up  in  the  stubble  an4 
*6 


1., 


130 


r.  iM  K . 


roots,  which  thus  makes  it  less  important  that  the  or- 
ganic matters  should  be  given  back  to  the  soil  in  the 
ehapo  of  vegetable  or  animal  manures. 

Lime,  next  to  ashes,  is  here  contended  either  as  a 
carbonate  or  sulphate,  has  been  instrumental  in  the  inr.- 
provement  of  the  soils  beyond  any  other  saline  ma- 
nures.    Like  ashes  too,  its  application  is   beneficial  to 
every  soil  not  already  sufficiently  charged  with  it.     It 
is  truly  very  highly  prized  by  this  agricultural  people 
as  a  manure,  as  making  heavy  land  lighter  and  light 
land  heavier,  and  gives  adhesiveness  to  creeping  sands, 
or  leachy  gravel,  and  comparative  openness  and  poros- 
ity to  tenacious  clays ;  and  it  has  a  permanently  bene- 
ficial effect  where  generally  used  in  disinfecting  the 
atmosphere  of  any  noxious  vapors  in  it.     It  not  only 
condenses  and  retains  the  organic  matters  brought  in 
contact  with  it  by  the  air  and  rains,  but  it  has  the  far- 
ther effect  of  converting  the  insoluble  matters  in  the 
soil  into  available  food  for  plants.     It  is  considered  the 
key  to  the  strong  box  of  the  farmer,  securely  locking 
up  his  treasure  till  demanded  for  his  own  use,  and  yield- 
ing it  profusely  at  his  demands  whenever  required. — 
In  its  influence  in  drying  the  land  and  accelerating 
the  growth  of  plants,  the  use  of  lime  is  equivalent  to 
an  increase  of  temperature  j  and  the  northern  farmer 
declares  that  he  sometimes  experiences  in  effect,  the 
same  benefit  from  it  as  if  his  land  were  removed  a  de- 
gree or  two  to  the  south.     The  influence  of  lime  in  re- 
cruiting soils  after  they  have  been  exhausted,  has  been 
frequent  and  striking ;  and  it  may  be  stated  as  an  in- 
controvertible truths  that  wherever  procurable  at  low 


pricei, 

agents 

The 

cused  a 

fathers 

■0    ar  i 

over  it< 

produ( 

Lime  g 

if  heu 

charge 

agent. 

By 

grediei 

enable 

crops  I 

taken 

manur 

lime  c 

plant ; 

fertilii 

ry  abi 

are  pi 

ty. 

shouli 
ces  fr 
Iti 
ry  re 
some 
ed  b] 
dresi 


AOBNCY  OF  LIMB. 


131 


or- 

the 


pricei,  Hme  ii  oqo  of  tbe  most  economical  and  efficient 
agenti  in  eecuring  fertility,  within  the  farmer's  reach. 

The  northern  farmer  declares  that  lime  ii  falsely  ac- 
cused as  beinsc  an  exhauster  of  soils,  that  it  enrichosthe 
fathers  and  impoverishes  the  sons.  This  is  inic  only 
■o  ar  as  it  gives  the  occupant  of  the  land  the  control 
over  it«  latent  fertility;  but  if  he  squanders  the  rich 
products  when  within  his  reach,  it  will  be  his  own  fault. 
Lime  gives  him  the  power  of  exhausting  his  principal  ; 
if  he  uses  aught  beyond  the  interest,  his  prodigality  ia 
chargeable  to  his  own  folly,  not  to  the  liberality  of  his 
agent. 

By  the  addition  of  lime  to  the  soil,  the  insoluble  in- 
gredients contained  in  it  are  set  free,  and  they  are  thus 
enabled  to  aid  in  the  formation  of  plants,  and  larger 
crops  and  of  better  quality  are  the  results.  If  these  bt 
taken  from  the  soil  without  a  corresponding  return  of 
manure,  exhaustion  must  follow.  And  it  is  known  that 
lime  constitutes  in  all  cases,  only  a  part  of  the  entire 
plant ;  all  the  other  ingredients  must  be  added,  or  the 
fertility  of  the  soil  cannot  be  sustained.  But  in  the  va- 
ry abundance  of  the  crops  which  lime  affords,  means 
are  provided  for  the  maintenance  of  the  highest  fertili- 
ty. If  they  are  consumed  on  the  farm,  their  manure 
should  be  returned  to  the  j&elds  to  replace  the  substan- 
ces from  which  they  are  formed. 

It  is  recommended,  and  the  recommendation  is  a  ve- 
ry reasonable  one,  that  the  best  method  is  to  add,  in 
some  form,  the  full  amount  of  all  the  materials  abstract- 
ed by  the  annual  crop.  When  this  is  done,  the  large 
dressing  of  lime  will  retain  the  accumulating  fertility 


ili 


132 


VAlltOUS  MODES  OF  APPLYING  LlAfK. 


far  beyond  what  the  soil  would  be  capable  of,  were  it 
not  for  its  agency,  and  it  is  in  this  way  that  the  great 
profit  o(  farniing  consists. 

As  it  is  known  to  every  farmer  that  large  crops  on- 
ly are  profitable  ;  the  market  value  of  many  indifferent 
ones  will  hardiy  meet  the  expeniie  of  cultivation,  and 
it  is  only  the  excess  beyond  this  which  is  profit.  It  is 
evident  that  if  15  bushels  of  wheat  per  acre  be  an  av- 
erage crop,  and  it  requires  12  bushels  to  pay  all  ex- 
penses of  production,  3  bushels  is  the  amount  of  profit. 
But  if  by  the  use  of  lime  and  ordinary  manures,  the 
product  can  be  raised  to  30  bushels  per  acre,  the  profit 
would  be  near  the  value  of  12  or  15  bushels  per  acre, 
after  paying  for  the  manures.  Thus  the  advantage  from 
good  management  may  be  five  times  that  of  neglect. 

The  mode  of  applying  lime  is  various.  It  may  be 
carried  on  to  the  ground  immediately  after  burning, 
and  placed  in  small  heaps;  there  it  may  be  left  to  slack 
by  rains  and  the  air  ;  or  it  is  better  to  reduce  it  at  once 
with  water  if  accessible,  and  then  spread  it  preparato- 
ry to  plowing.  A  good  practice  is  to  place  it  in  large 
piles  and  cover  it  thic];^ly  with  earth,  which  gradually 
reduces  it  to  powder.  It  may  thon  be  carried  where 
it  is  wanted  and  spread  from  the  cart  or  wagon.  It  is 
said  to  be  still  better  if  small  quantities  only  are  want- 
ed, to  have  it  thoroughly  slacked  and  add  it  with  ma- 
nure, avoiding  fermentation  as  far  as  practicable  after 
it  has  been  added,  if  added  to  the  heap,  as  its  avidity 
for  carbon  expels  the  ammonia,  which  would  lessen  its 
value.  Fresh  burnt  lime  it  is  said  does  not  act  on  the 
crops  during  the  ftrst  year,  and  may  be  prepared  for  ac- 


U0DE3  or  APPLYLXG  Ll.ME. 


133 


:  IS 


lion  as  well  by  mixing  it  with  3  or  4<  times  its  bulk  of 
earth,  as  by  spreadin,^  it  directly  upon  the  o;round. 

The  amount  of  linio  to  be  used  is  said  to  depend  en- 
tirely on  the  soil.  Some  lands  which  are  strong:  and 
fertile,  contain  over  30  per  cent  in  their  natural  state, 
so  that  it  is  necessary  to  be  a  little  cautious,  lest  such 
lands  be  overcharfred.  The  averag-e  for  the  first  dres- 
sing  is  from  50  to  75  bushels  per  acre,  which  may  be 
renewed  every  4  years,  at  the  rate  of  20  tc  40  bushels 
per  acre.  If  an  overdose  has  been  applied,  time  or  the 
addition  of  green  manures,  such  as  clover  or  other  gras- 
ses, are  the  only  correctives. 

To  give  lime  its  fullest  effect,  it  is  said  it  should  be 
kept  as  near  the  surface  as  possible,  and  for  this  rea- 
son it  is  well  to  spread  it  after  plowing,  and  covering 
it  well  with  the  harrow,  v^^hich  will  be  sufficient ;  and 
allow  the  ground  then  to  remain  in  grass  as  long  as 
possible.  The  weight  ot  the  lime  and  its  minuteness 
gives  it  a  tendency  to  sink,  and  after  a  few  years  cul- 
tivation a  large  portion  of  it  will  be  found  to  have  got- 
ten beyond  the  depth  of  its  most  efficient  action.  It 
should  be  spread  upon  the  ground  immediately  after  ta- 
king off  the  last  crop,  so  as  to  allow  all  the  time  possi- 
ble for  its  action  before  the  next  planting. 

In  addition  to  its  other  good  effects,  lime  like  ashes, 
is  useful  to  meadows  in  destroying  the  mosses  and  de- 
composing the  accumulated  vegetable  decay  on  the 
surface.  For  this  purpose  it  may  be  spread  on  them 
unmixed,  after  having  passed  into  the  state  of  carbon- 
ate or  efTete  lime,  to  prevent  injury  to  the  grass.  If 
no  such  necessity  requires  its  use  in  this  form,  it  may 


134 


PREPARIMO  WHEAT  LANDS. 


be  combined  advantageously  with  the  muck,  and  ictt- 
tered  broadcast  over  the  meadow. 

In  preparing  land  for  wheat  and  other  grain,  the 
ground  is  plowed  about  12  inches  deep,  each  furrow 
being  16  inches  wide ;  and  such  as  are  appropriated  to 
gardens  and  horticultural  purposes  is  deepened  to  18 
inches,  in  each  case  to  the  manifest  profit  of  the  pro- 
prietors. But  whatever  may  be  the  depth  of  the  soil, 
the  plow  is  required  to  turn  up  the  entire  mass,  if  with- 
in its  reach,  and  what  is  beyond  is  thoroughly  broken 
up  by  the  subsoil  plow,  and  some  of  it  occasionally  in- 
corporated with  that  of  the  surface.  The  subsoil  is  nev- 
er brought  out  of  its  bed,  except  in  small  quantities  to 
be  exposed  to  the  atmosphere.  If  much  of  it  was  brought 
to  the  surface  it  would  have  to  receive  an  application 
of  such  fertilizers  as  are  necessary  to  put  it  at  once  in- 
to a  productive  system. 

Subsoil  plowing  is  a  practice  of  great  popularity  with 
these  agricultural  people,  who  contend  that  it  is  attend- 
ed with  signal  benefit  from  the  increase  and  certainty 
of  the  crop.  It  is  performed  by  subsoil  plows,  made 
exclusively  for  the  purpose.  The  objects  to  be  accom- 
plished are  to  loosen  the  hard  earth  below  the  reach  of 
the  ordinary  plow,  and  permit  the  ready  escape  of  the 
water  which  tails  upon  the  surface,  the  circulation  of 
air,  and  a  more  extended  range  for  the  roots  of  the 
plants  or  grain,  by  which  they  procure  additional  nour- 
ishment, and  secure  a  crop  against  drought  by  penetra- 
ting into  the  regions  of  perpetual  moisture.  When  all 
tlie  circumstances  are  favorable  to  the  use  of  the  sub- 
soil plow,  an  increase  of  20,  30,  and  even  50  per  cent 


has  bee] 
ly  conv 
admiral 
would 
cept  su( 

The 
quantity 
tain  nat 
has  beei 
ing, the 
the  gro 
good  pr 
seed  an( 
is  rollec 
which 
followii 

Thei 
the  1st 
from  5 
The  see 
thoroug 
washed 
of  salt  { 
and  for 
ing  is  r 
out  and 
verized 
weeds  1 
When  1 
by  sodHi 
wards  y 


PREt^ARINO  WHEAT  LANDS. 


IS) 


has  been  attributed  to  its  operations.  I  waa  thorough- 
ly convinced,  not  by  argument  alone,  but  seeing  the 
admirable  operation  of  the  plow,  that  subsoil  plowing 
would  be  attended  with  great  profit  in  all  lands,  ex- 
cept such  subsoils  as  are  naturally  too  loose  and  leachy. 

The  wheat  land  being  thus  prepared,  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  lime  is  added,  except  it  is  known  to  con- 
tain naturally  a  sufficient  quantity.  When  the  ground 
has  been  thoroughly  mellowed  by  rolling  and  harrow- 
ing, the  seed  is  sown  and  thoroughly  harrowed  in,  and 
the  ground  afterwards  rolled,  which  is  considered  a 
good  practice,  as  it  presses  the  earth  closely  upon  the 
seed  and  facilitates  germination.  As  soon  as  the  ground 
is  rolled,  the  water  furrows  if  any,  are  cleaned  out, 
which  is  again  done  late  in  autumn  and  early  in  the 
following  spring. 

The  time  for  sowing  is  from  the  10th  September  to 
the  1st  of  October.  The  quantity  sown  per  acre,  is 
from  5  to  6  pecks,  the  latte^  quantity  most  frequently. 
The  seed  is  prepared  with  the  utmost  care,  after  it  is 
thoroughly  cleaned.  The  seed,  previous  to  sowing,  is 
washed  for  about  five  minutes  in  a  strong  brine,  made 
of  salt  and  sofl  water,  taking  care  to  skim  off  all  light 
and  foreign  seeds.  If  the  grain  is  smutty,  this  wash- 
ing is  repeated  in  another  clean  brine,  when  it  is  taken 
out  and  mixed  with  one-twelflh  its  bulk  of  fresh  pul- 
verized quick  lime.  This  kills  the  smut,  cleans  out 
weeds  from  the  grain,  and  insures  early  &  rapid  growth. 
When  the  seed  is  not  smutty,  it  is  frequently  prepared 
by  soaking  or  sprinkling  it  with  stale  urine,  and  afler* 
wards  well  mixed  with  the  lime. 


M 


u« 


i/. 


136 


VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  WHEAT. 


Numerous  are  the  kinds  of  wheat  cultivated  in  thig 
famous  wheat  region.  The  following  are  the  principal 
kinds,  each  of  which  stand  high  in  public  favor :  The 
Improved  Flint,  the  Old  Genesee  Red  Chaff,  White 
May  of  Virginia,  Wheatland  Red,  Kentucky  White 
bearded,  Canadian  6int,  English  velvet  beard  or  Crate, 
English  flint  c  r  Soules  wheat,  White  Provence,  Blue 
Stem,  Mediterranean,  Egyptian,  Smyrna,  Reed,  Many 
spiked  or  Wild  Goose,  Spring,  Black  Sea,  Siberian,  &c. 

The  clay  lands  for  a  spring  crop  are  generally  plow- 
ed in  the  fall,  so  that  the  tenacity  of  the  soil  may  thus 
be  temporarily  broken  up  by  the  winter  frosts,  its  par- 
ticles separated,  and  the  whole  mass  reduced  to  a  finer 
tilth  than  could  possibly  be  effected  in  any  other  man- 
ner. It  is  also  contended  that  there  is  still  further  and 
important  advantages  from  this  practice,  which  ensues 
from  the  attraction  existing  between  the  clay  and  those 
gasses  that  are  furnished  from  the  atmosphere,  snow, 
rains  and  dews.  In  consequence  of  being  thus  thrown 
up  and  coming  in  contact  with  them,  it  seizes  upon  the 
ammonia,  carbonic  and  nitric  acids  which  are  in  the 
air,  and  holds  them  for  the  future  use  of  the  crop. 

These  grounds  are  generally  manured,  and  those  put 
in  corn,  in  planting  receives  about  half  a  gill  of  ashes 
and  gypsum  mixed  at  the  rate  of  two  of  the  former  to 
one  of  the  latter,  put  in  the  hill,  and  an  equal  quantity 
of  pure  gypsum  after  the  corn  is  first  hoed  j  the  ground 
is  afterwards  well  stirred  by  harrowing,  cultivating 
and  plowing.  The  lands  for  oats  and  barley  receive  a 
dressing  of  lime  and  ashes.  If  lime  alone,  it  is  added 
at  the  rate  of  20  to  30  bushels  per  acre,  sown  broad- 


ROTATION    IN    CROPS. 


137 


cast  after  the  oats  or  barley  and  harrowed  in ;  each  of 
which  are  afterwards  sown  down  in  wheat  in  the  man- 
ner already  given,  except  that  the  oats  and  barley 
grounds  do  not  receive  a  dressing  of  lime. 

The  rotation  of  crops  is  a  very  popular  practice  with 
the  people  of  this  renowned  agricultural  region.  The 
following  are  a  small  portion  of  the  reasons  given  why 
a  rotation  in  cropping  should  be  practised :  IVIany  choice 
secondary  bottom  lands  and  others  munificiently  sup- 
plied by  nature,  with  all  the  materials  of  fertility,  have 
by  along  succession  of  crops,  been  reduced  to  a  condi- 
tion of  comparative  sterility.  Yet  it  will  have  been 
found  in  the  progress  of  this  exhaustion,  that  after  the 
loil  ceased  to  give  an  adequate  return  of  one  crop,  as 
of  wheat,  corn  or  tobacco,  it  would  still  yield  largely 
of  some  other  genus,  which  was  adapted  to  it.  These 
lands  when  thus  reduced  and  turned  out  to  the  com- 
mons for  a  few  years,  will  again  give  crops  much  lar- 
ger than  those  which  closed  their  former  bearing  ca- 
reer ;  proving  that  nature  has  been  silently  at  work  in 
renovating  the  land  for  further  use.  The  whole  course 
of  her  operations  is  not  known  j  but  this  much  is  satis- 
factorily ascertained,  that  she  is  incessantly  engaged  in 
producing  those  changes  in  the  soil  which  enable  it  to 
contribute  to  vegetable  sustenance.  Enough  of  lime, 
or  potash,  or  silica  may  have  been  disengaged  to  yield 
all  that  may  be  required  for  one  crop,  which  by  that 
crop  is  principally  taken  up,  and  if  another  of  the  same 
kind  follows  in  quick  succession,  there  will  be  a  defi- 
ciency, yet  if  a  different  crop  succeed,  there  may  be 
fQund  enough  of  all  the  materials  it  needs  fully  to  ma- 


13S 


ADVANTAOKS  OJ*  ROTATION. 


ture  it.  A  third  now  takes  place,  demanding  materi- 
als for  nutrition,  in  forms  and  proportions  unlike  either 
which  has  preceded  it,  and  by  the  time  a  recurrence 
to  the  first  is  necessary,  the  sol:  may  be  in  a  condition 
again  to  yield  a  remuneratinjy  reiurn.  These  remarks 
apply  equally  to  such  soils  as  have,  and  such  as  have 
not  received  manures. 

Another  benefit  of  rotation  is  by  bnnging  the  land 
into  hoed  crops  at  proper  intervals,  it  clears  it  of  trou- 
blesome weeds  which  may  infest  it.  A  still  further 
advantage  may  be  found  in  cutting  off  the  appropriate 
food  lor  insects  and  worms,  which  in  the  course  of  time 
by  having  a  full  supply  of  their  necessary  aliment,  and 
especially  if  undisturbed  in  their  quiet  haunts,  will 
oftimes  become  so  numerous  as  seriously  to  interfere 
with  the  labors  of  the  fu/mer.  A  change  of  crops  and 
exposure  of  the  insects  to  frost,  and  by  the  change  of 
cultivation  which  a  rotation  insures,  will  make  serious 
inroads  upon  their  numbers,  if  it  does  not  effectually 
destroy  them. 

From  all  that  has  hitherto  been  learned  on  the  sub- 
ject of  rotation,  f'ither  from  science  or  practice,  two 
general  principles  may  be  assumed,  as  proper  to  guide 
every  farmer  in  his  course  of  cropping:, — 1st,  to  culti- 
vate as  great  a  variety  of  plants  as  his  soil,  circum- 
stances and  market  will  justify;  and  2nd,  to  have  the 
same  or  similar  species  follow  each  other  at  intervals 
as  remote  as  may  be  consistent  with  his  interest.  From 
the  foregoing  observations  on  the  subject,  it  is  evident 
that  the  proper  system  of  rotation  for  any  farmer  to  a- 
dopt,  must  depend  on  all  the  conditions  by  which   h« 


ig  surro 
these  ci 
In  tr 
could  n 
minion 


'4 


agricui 

monish 

lation  t 

nuraerc 

as  expe 

follow 

as  well 

will  sp 

we  tak 

turn  iV 

lion,  bj 

most  r( 

easily 

make  1 

the  pu 

tice  as 

amuni 

Woul( 

her  sli 

would 

ward. 

But 

presei 

plant 

•68  to 

tence 


i;' 


REMARKS    ON    AGRICLLTURK, 


139 


18  surrounded,  and  that    it   should    vary  according  to 
these  circumstances. 

In  travellinor  over  this  jrreat  aprncultural  roEjion,  I 
could  not  but  feel  a  regret  that  the  rer owned  Old  Do- 
minion should  be  found  so  far  in  the, rear  in  the  great 
agricultural  art,  and  especially  after  having  been  ad- 
monished bv  the  intf»Ili']!;ent  farmers  of  the  north,  in  re- 
lation  to  their  excellent  mode  of  agriculture,  by  their 
numerous  newspapers,  cultivators,  books,  &,c.,  as  well 
as  experience,  which  has  shown  that  w'hcat  should  not 
follow  wheat,  or  tobacco  a  crop  of  tobacco,  for  these, 
as  well  as  many  other  crops  following  in  succession, 
will  speedily  exhaust  the  constituents  of  the  soil.     If 
we  take  these  constituents  from  the  soil  we  should  re- 
turn them  before  we  again  tax  it  to  ruinous  produc- 
tion, by  artificial  manuring  with  such  manures  as  would 
most  readily  and  cheaply  efF'ct  the  object,  an  object 
easily  effected  by  a  little  care  and  a  small  expense,  to 
make  the  necessary  appendages  to  barns  and  stables  for 
the  purpose.    Why  the  farmers  of  Virginia  do  not  prac- 
tice as  a  general  thing,  a  better  mode  of  agriculture  I 
am  unable  to  say,  unless  we  attribute  it  to  -egligence. 
Would  that  the  famous  Old  Dominion  w^ould  wake  from 
her  slumber  on  the  subject,   and    no   sooner  than  she 
would,  we  would  hear  no  longer  the  great  cry  of  west- 
ward, westward. 

But  unfortunately  for  this  renowned  old  State,  at 
present  there  are  many  fields  to  be  found  whereon  the 
plant  does  not  grow  luxuriantly,  and  sometimes  refu- 
tes to  vegetate,  or  if  it  starts  upon  its  vegetable  exis- 
tence, it  does  80  apparently  with  the  greatest   reluct- 


ll 


J 


uo 


FASTUAS  LANBi. 


ance  and  suffering,  and  ekes  out  a  punj,  thrlltle^ 
reer,  unattended  with  a  single  advantage  to  its  owner. 
This  is  simply  the^result  of  the  exhaustion  of  one  or 
more  of  the  indispensable  elements  of  the  plant. 

While  on  the  other  hand  a  great  country  like  Vir- 
ginia, possessing  a  climate  suited  to  nearly  all  the  cul- 
tivated crops,  deserves  to  be  fostered  and  improved. — 
The  present  age  must  make  the  beginning,  else  we  will 
entail  the  horrid  curse  of  national  poverty  upon  those 
who  follow  us.  With  the  proper  energies  and  the  ap- 
plication of  the  proper  principles  to  her  agriculture, 
we  could  nake  her  the  garden  spot  of  the  world. 


CHAPTER    XII. 


Theory  of  paiture  lands — Pasturing  Meadows — Clover — Timo- 
thy— Feeding  Stock — Steaming  Apparatus — Plows-Drill  bar- 
row— Rollers — Under-draining — Advantages  of  under-drain* 
ing  lands — Canadian  Thistle — Birds — Cutting  Timber — Plant- 
ing Fruit  Trees — Mode  of  Culture — Pruning — Kinds  of  Fruit. 

The  general  theory  adopted  by  farmers  in  regard  to 
pasture  lands  is,  that  they  are  manured  sufficiently  by 
the  animals  feeding  on  them.  These  celebrated  farm- 
ers tell  us  this  opinion  is  only  partially  correct.  Pas- 
tures wear  out  less  than  other  lands,  but  it  is  contend- 
ed when  milch  cows  and  working  animals  are  fed  up- 
on them,  they  carry  off  much  of  the  produce  of  the 
soil  which  is  never  returned  to  it.  Even  the  wool  and 
carcass  of  the  sheep,  with  the  ordinary  escape  of  the 
Milte  by  tho  washing  of  the  rains,  will  aAer  a  long  time 


TAStURINO  MEADOWS. 


141 


impoverish  the  land.     HoW  much  more  rapidly  when 
much  of  the  manure,  all  the  milk,  which  is  rich  in  all 
the  elements  of  plants  is  daily  carried  from  the  soil. — 
There  is  much  phosphate  of  lime  in  milk,  it  is  there- 
fore recommended  that  crushed  bones,  ashes,  salt  and 
gypsum  be  used  for  manuring  dairy  pastures,  each  of 
which  are  considered   of  the   highest  value  ior  pas- 
ture lands.     From  the  peculiar  action  of  these  manures 
instead  of  growing  poorer,  pastures  may  become  rich- 
er through  every  successive  year.     But  instead  ofthus 
keeping  up  pasture  lands  for  the  want  of  proper  reflec- 
tion, it  is  generally  said  it  will  enrich  itself  by  the 
droppings  of  the  animals  pastured  on  the  land  ;  but  thii 
has  not  the  desired  effect,  because  they  yield  the  soil 
nothing  which  they  did  not  drain  from  it.     The  grasi 
and  weeds  upon  which  they  live,  spring  from  the  soil, 
and  that  which  they  return  in  voidings  must  according 
to  the  laws  sustaining  animated  nature,  be  less  in  quan- 
tity than  the  amount  originally  derived  by  them*   Th« 
fields  therefore  under  this  system  of  grazing,  can  gain 
nothing,  on  the  contrary  the  land  must  have  lost  somt 
of  its  contents. 

There  is  here  no  objection  to  feeding  off  raeadowg 
in  early  autumn,  while  the  ground  is  dry  and  the  sod 
firm.  The  roots  of  the  grass  they  say,  are  rather  ben- 
efitted than  injured  by  the  browsing.  But  they  should 
never  be  pasti^red  in  the  spring.  It  is  said  by  these 
excellent  farmers  that  it  is  economy  to  purchase  hay  at 
any  price  rather  than  spring  pasture  meadows. 

Their  time  for  cutting  clover  is  afler  hav'.ng  fully 
blossomed  and  assumed  a  brownish  hue.     The  swarth, 


■KC-^ 


ut 


rEJtPINO    STOClLi 


unless  very  heavy,  is  never  stirred  open  j  but  allowed 
to  wilt  on  the  top ;  it  is  then  carefully  turned  over  and 
when  thus  partially  cured,  placed  in  high  slender  cocks, 
where  it  remains  till  sufficiently  dry.  It  is  then  remo* 
ved  to  the  barn,  where  it  is  sprinkled  over  with  from 
10  to  20  quarfs  of  salt  per  ton,  which  is  a  very  good 
practice,  as  it  thus  secures  the  hay  against  danr.age  from 
occasional  ji;reenncss.  There  is  no  waste  of  the  salt, 
as  it  serves  the  double  object  after  curing  the  hay,  of 
furnishing  salt  to  the  cattle  and  the  manure  heap. 

The  time  for  cutting  timothy  is  when  the  seed  is 
formed,  when  the  seed  is  between  the  milk  and  dough 
state,  and  will  nearly  ripen  after  cutting  j  as  it  is  here 
declared  that  timothy  affords  nearly  double  the  quanti- 
ty of  nutriment  in  the  seed  that  it  does  in  the  flower,, 
and  is  then  much  more  relished  by  stock.  Orchard 
grass  on  the  other  hand,  although  it  possesses  two-sev- 
enths more  nutritive  value  for  hay  in  the  seed,  yet  as 
it  is  more  tender,  and  preferred  oy  stock  when  cut  in 
flower,  and  as  it  continues  to  grow  rapidly  afterwards, 
should  be  alwavs  cut  at  that  time. 

The  mode  of  feeding  stock,  not  only  for  market  but 
also  the  stock  during  winter,  is  by  having  the  food 
ground,  crushed  or  steamed ;  as  it  is  contended,  and 
that  vcx-y  logically,  that  the  crushing  or  grinding  of  the 
grain  insures  more  perfect  mastication,  and  is  perform- 
ed by  machinery  at  much  less  expense  than  by  thi?  an- 
imals consuming  it.  The  steaming  is  also  the  final 
step  towards  its  easy  and  profitable  assimilation  in  the 
animal  economy.  With  a  capacious  steaming  box  for 
the  reception  of  the  food,  the  roots  and  grain  or  meal. 


•TEAMING  ArPARATUi. 


143 


18 


and  eveh  cut  hay,  straw  and  stalks,  are  here  thrown  in 
together,  and  all  are  thus  ofTectually  prepared  for  nour- 
ishment. There  is  still  aiiolher  advantage  claimed,  ag 
resulting  from  this  practice  ;  that  is,  there  is  less  ani- 
mal heat  expended  in  warming  the  food  than  would  be 
otherwise  required.  ••' 

The  steaming  apparatuses  here  used  are  variously 
constructed.  Many  of  the  larger  ones  consist  of  a  cir- 
cular boiler  5i  feet  long  by  20  inches  in  JIameter,  made 
of  boiler  iron,  laid  lengthwise  on  a  brick  rrch.  The 
fire  is  placed  underneath  and  passes  through  the  whole 
length  and  over  one  end,  then  turns  in  contact  with 
the  boiler,  through  side-flues  or  pockets,  where  it  en- 
ters the  chimney.  This  gives  an  exposure  to  the  name 
and  heated  air  of  about  10  feet.  The  upper  part  is 
coated  with  brick  and  mortar  to  retain  the  heat,  and  3 
small  test  cocks  are  applied  at  the  bottom,  middle  and 
upper  edge  of  the  exposed  end,  to  show  the  quantity 
of  water  in  it ;  and  two  large  stop  cocks  on  the  upper 
side  for  receiving  the  water  and  delivering  the  steam, 
completes  the  boiler.  The  steaming  box  is  an  oblong, 
7  or  8  feet  in  length,  by  about  4  feet  in  depth  and  width, 
capable  of  holding  60  or  70  bushels,  made  of  plank, 
grooved  together  and  clamped  and  keyed  with  4  setts 
of  oak  joist.  • 

The  smaller  apparatuses  used  for  the  same  purpose, 
consist  of  a  large  circular  tub,  strongly  bound  by  wag- 
on tire,  and  holding  about  25  bushels.  The  covering 
of  both  apparatuses  is  fastened  securely  j  but  a  safety 
valve  is  allowed  for  the  escape  of  steam,  which  is  sim- 
ply a  two  inch  auger  hole.     Into  these  the  steam  is 


II 


I 


U4 


FARMING  UTENSILS. 


conveyed  from  the  boiler,  by  a  copper  lube  attached  to 
the  steam  delivery  cock  for  a  short  distance,  when  it 
is  continued  into  the  bottom  of  the  box  or  tub  by  a  lead 
pipe,  on  account  of  its  flexibility  and  to  avoid  injury 
to  the  food  from  the  corrosion  of  the  copper.  The  end 
of  this  lead  pipe,  which  is  in  the  steaming  box  or  tub, 
is  guarded  by  a  metal  strainer  to  prevent  its  clogging 
from  the  contents  of  the  box. 

With  these  apparatuses  they  find  no  difficulty  in 
cooking  about  25  bushels  of  unground  corn  or  other 
grain  in  the  smaller  apparatus,  in  the  course  of  three 
or  four  hours,  and  in  the  larger  one,  60  or  70  bushels 
of  grain  or  roots,  hay,  straw  or  corn  stalks,  in  the  coursa 
of  a  few  hours  longer,  with  a  small  expense  of  fuel. — 
For  swine,  fattening  cattle,  sheep,  milch  cows,  and 
working  horses  and  oxen,  these  great  farmers  contend 
without  a  doubt  that  a  large  amount  of  food  is  saved 
by  the  use  of  such  or  similar  cooking  apparatuses.  The 
box  it  is  said  may  be  enlarged  to  triple  the  capacity 
ol  the  fofegoing,  without  reducing  the  operation,  and 
even  With  a  boiler  of  the  same  dimensions ;  but  it  would 
take  a  longer  time  to  effect  the  object.  If  the  boiler 
were  increased  in  proportion  to  the  box,  the  cooking 
process  would  be  increased  also,  atid  oi  course  accom- 
plished in  the  same  time. 

The  next  thing  I  deemed  worthy  of  notice.  Was  their 
farming  implements ;  their  plows  lor  almost  every  sit* 
uation  and  soil ;  among  which  are  several  varieties  ex- 
clusively for  the  subsoil,  some  are  for  heavy  lands  and 
some  for  light,  some  for  stony  soils,  others  for  such  as 
are  full  of  roots,  some  are  adapted  to  deep  and  some  to 


rARMl.NG  I'TENSlLfc* 


Ud 


Bhallow  plowing,  some  are  for  plow  iiig  around  a  hill 
and  throwing  the  furrows  cither  up  or  down  or  both 
ways  alternately,  others  again  throw  the  soil  on  both 
sides,  and  are  used  for  plowing  between  the  rows  of 
corn  or  roots.  Every  farmer  is  here  supplied  with  such 
plows  as  are  entirely  adapted  to  the  diflbrent  opera- 
tions required. 

It  is  not  here  as  is  loo  much  the  case   in  Virginia, 
where  has  been  adopted  a  kind  of  penny  wise  and  pound 
foolish  policy  by  many  of  the  farmers  in  their  negledt 
or  refusal  to   supply    themselves   with    good   tools  to 
work  with*     They  thus  save  a  few  shillings  in  the  first 
outlay,  1,'it  frequently  lose  ten  times  as  much  by  the 
use  of  indifferent  ones,  in  the  waste  of  labor  and  the 
inefficiency  of  their  operations.     A  farmer  here  esti- 
mates the  value  of  his  own  and  his  laborer's  time,  as 
well  as  thai  of  his  teams,  by  dollars  and  cents,  and  if 
it  requires  one-tenth  or  even  one-hundredth  more  of 
either  to  accomplish  a  given  object,  with  one  instru- 
ment than  another,  he  before  buying  one  of  inferior 
quality,  carefully  computes  the  amount  his  false  econ- 
omy in  the  purchase  will  cost  him  before  he  has  done 
with  it.     They  contend  that  those  per:,ons  who  wish 
to  thrive  can  ill  afford  the  extravagance  of  buying  in- 
ferior tools,  at  however  low  a  price.     The  best  are  al- 
ways considered  the  cheapest ;   not  those  of  high  and 
extravagant  finish,  or  in  any  respect  unnecessarily  cost- 
ly;  but  such  as  are  p.ain  and  substantially  made  on  the 
best  principles  and  o(  the  best  and  m.ost  durable  male- 
rials.     Among  the  mariV  excellent  p^.ows  I  saw,  is  the 
Drill  BaiTow,  which  is  trulv  a  useful  thing  for  dibblincr 
7 


.i.ii 


la 


p  - 


146 


tyRthU    BAKKOVV'S — ROiAXR:^' 


m  seeds ;  and  after  the  ground  is  meflowed  by  rolling 
and  harrowing,  the  drill  barrow  will  open  the  furrows, 
ior  the  reception  of  the  seed,  and  drop  and  cover  and 
roll  the  earth  firmly  over  it.  The  whole  operation  is 
well  performed,  the  horse  walking  about  as  fast  as  he 
usually  does  in  the  shovel  plow.  The  smaller  ones  are 
trundled  along  like  a  wheel-barrow,  by  hand.  They 
are  each  suited  to  the  smaller  seeds,  being  also  arrang- 
ed for  planting*  corn,  beans  and  peas  successfully. 

Rollers  ior  rolling  land,  are  variously  constructed. 
The  simplest  form  is  a  single  wooden  shaft,  with  gud- 
geons at  each  end,  which  rest  in  a  square  frame,  made 
by  fastening  foui  square  pieces  of  timber,  a  tongue  for 
drawing  it  being  placed  in  one  of  its  sides.  A  box  is 
attached  to  this  frame  for  the  purpose  of  holding  stones 
and  weeds  picked  up  in  the  field,  and  for  weighting 
the  roller  according  to  the  work  required.  When  a 
roller  exceeds  8  or  10  ieet  in  length,  it  is  divided  in 
the  middle,  and  has  an  iron  axle  passing  through  each 
part  upon  which  it  revolves,  having  the  friction  di- 
minished by  means  of  thick  washers  in  the  ends  of  the 
rollers.  Some  rollers  have  stout  angular  teeth  for  to 
tear  up  and  loosen  the  old  turf  and  moss  of  meadows. 

The  swampy  or  otherwise  wet  lands  are  reclaimed 
by  a  system  of  under-draining,  which  consists  in  sink- 
ing the  drain  about  4  feet  deep,  and  using  baked  clay 
or  tile  pikes,  2  inches  in  diameter  and  18  inches  long, 
connected  by  allowing  the  descending  end  to  enter  the 
next  below  it  as  a  socket.  The  trifling  opening  at 
each  joint,  with  small  holes  perforating  the  top  of  the 
Ules  is  found  to  bo  su{hcien|t  to  admit   all   the   water 


which  li 
at  whicl 
from  a  r 
ced  whe 
60  feet  J 
The  exf 
The  a 
importai 
pxists  in 
sons  are 
and  peri 
full  crop 
matured 
early  cu 
nishing  ; 
tivation 
enablino 

ducts,  w 
fore,  an 
growth, 
face  dra 
of  the  la 
serve  as 
The( 
taxed  th 
ing  its  r 
The  pla 
when  tl 
large  th 
which  t 
scon  dis 


rNr>Rn-DrAi.\L\<i  — c'aXauiaN  thistle. 


U7 


which  (alls  into  the  drain,  while  the  increased  depth 
at  which  the  drainage  takes  place,  draws  the  water 
from  a  much  greater  distance.  These  drains  are  pla- 
ced where  the  ground  is  low  and  and  wet,  about  50  or 
60  feet  apart,  which  drain  the  land  very  admirably. — 
The  expense  is  about  twelve  dollars  per  acre. 

The  advantages  of  under-draining  are  numerous  and| 
important ;  they  take  away  all  the  surplus  water  which 
exists  in  heavy  and  tenacious  soils  which  in  wet  sea- 
sons are  a  serious  impediment  to  the  successful  growth 
and  perfection  of  vegetation  ;  thus  always  insuring  a 
full  crop  when  frequently  not  one-fourth  of  a  crop  is 
matured  on  similar  undrained  soils.  They  allow  of 
early  cultivation  in  spring  and  late  in  autumn,  by  fur- 
nishing a  dry  warm  soil,  which  would  not  admit  of  cul- 
tivation except  in  the  warm  part  of  the  season ;  thus 
enabling  the  farmer  to  grow  a  greater  variety  of  pro- 
ducts, where  only  a  few  were  adapted  to  th«  soil  be- 
fore, and  to  these  it  gave  several  weeks  additional 
growth.  It  also  saves  all  the  trouble  and  waste  of  sur- 
face drains  and  open  furrows,  which  require  that  much 
of  the  land  be  left  almost  in  an  unproductive  state  to 
serve  as  conductors  of  the  surplus  water. 

The  Canadian  Thistle  is  the  only  weed  which  has 
taxed  the  ingenuity  of  these  vigilant  farmers  in  effect- 
ing its  removal.  This  is  however  within  their  power. 
The  plant  is  allowed  to  grow  till  it  comes  into  flower, 
when  they  are  cut  down  with  a  hoe,  or  if  the  patch  is 
large  they  are  all  turned  down  with  the  plow,  after 
which  the  hoe  is  used  in  cutting  them  off,  when  they 
?con  disappear. 


ii 


!  i 


ii: 


m 

s, 

U 


1 '  i' 


\d 


BIRDS — CUTTIXG  Ti:\inEli. 


Birds  are  considered  bv  these  intelli3;ent  farmers  as 
'of  great  utility;  This  was  something  which  a|)pearcd 
strange  to  me,  especially  when  it  was  declared  that 
birds  are  among  the  most  useful  of  the  farmer's  aids  iii 
securing  his  crops  from  insect  depredation  ;  and  yei 
manifest  as  this  is  to  every  observing  man,  they  are  lre= 
<iuently  pursued  and  hunted  from  the  premises  as  if 
they  were  his  worst  enemies.  It  is  among  these  farm- 
ers considered  an  absurd  custom  and  folly  in  the  ex- 
treme,  to  have  scare-crows  in  cotniields  and  orchards; 
but  on  the  other  hand  it  is  contended  that  martins,  the 
swallow  and  wren,  which  may  almost  be  considered  a- 
mong  the  domestics  of  the  farm,  and  the  sparrow,  rob- 
in, blue-bird,  tferush,  oriole,  and  nearly  all  the  gay 
songsters  of  the  field,  accomplish  more  for  the  destruc- 
tion of  noxious  flies,  worms  and  insects,  (the  real  ene- 
mies of  the  farmer,)  than  all  the  nostrums  ever  invented. 

The  time  these  people  choose  for  cutting  timber  for 
fencing  and  building,  is  in  autumn.  It  is  here  denied 
that  winter  is  the  proper  time  for  cutting  timber,  which 
is  in  Virginia  as  well  as  many  other  States,  generally 
supposed  to  be  the  proper  time  ;  as  it  is  supposed  the 
sap  is  then  principally  in  the  roots  of  the  trees.  If 
that  was  the  case,  they  assert  it  would  make  the  thing 
worse,  which  however  they  deny  to  be  the  condition 
of  the  tree  5  they  hold  that  nearly  the  same  quantity  of 
sap  is  in  the  tree  at  all  seasons,  only  beino-  less  active 
in  winter,  and  like  all  other  moisture,  is  congealed  du- 
ring the  coldest  weather,  yet  when  not  absolutely  fro- 
zen, circulation  is  never  entirely  stopped  in  the  living 
iree.     Therefore,  the  time  claimed   by  New  York,  is 


PLANTING   ITtUlT  TUKHS. 


1 19 


IS 


from  the  first  of  July  to  the  first  of  November  for  cut- 
ting timber  in  its  perfection.  Certain  it  is,  they  hjivo  cut 
timber  within  this  period,  which  has  exhibited  a  dura- 
bility two  or  three  times  as  great  as  that  cut  in  winter, 
when  placed  in  precisely  the  same  circumstances. 

The  mode  of  planting;  fruit  trees  is  by  digging  the 
holes  from  three  to  six  feet  in  diameter,  and  Irom  12 
to  18  inches  deep,  according  to  the  kind  of  soil  and 
the  size  of  the  tree  ;  the  more  compact  the  soil,  the 
deeper  and  larger  the  hole.  When  ready  to  plant,  e- 
nough  of  the  best  or  top  soil  is  thrown  into  the  bottom 
of  the  hole,  so  that  the  tree  may  stand  about  one  inch 
lower  than  when  removed  from  the  nursery.  The 
tree  is  taken  up  so  as  to  injure  the  roots  as  little  as  pos- 
sible ;  if  any  are  broken  they  are  cut  off  either  square 
or  obliquely,  with  a  fine  saw  or  sharp  knife ;  as  it  is 
contended,  it  left  in  their  bruised  or  broken  condition, 
they  will  canker  and  decay  in  the  ground  ;  but  if  thus 
cut  off  numerous  rootlets  will  spring  out  at  the  termi- 
nation of  the  amputated  root,  which  strike  into  tl.e 
soft  earth  and  give  increased  support  to  the  tree. 

If  the  soul  is  n6t  as  rich  as  it  is  thought  it  should  be, 
the  roots  are  covered  only  with  that  soil,  and  the  holes 
filled  up  with  good  earth.  It  is  strongly  contended  by 
these  people,  if  the  hole  in  which  a  tree  is  planted,  be 
small  and  the  surrounding  land  hard,  and  the  roots  bent 
up  and  cramped,  the  tree  cannot  grow,  or  if  after  a 
long  time  of  doubt  and  delay  it  finally  survives,  it 
creeps  along  with  a  snail's  pace,  making  little  return 
to  the  planter.  If  the  tree  be  crooked,  it  is  confined 
with  a   straw   band  to  a  stake  firmly  planted   in  the 


in  f  I 


11; 


m 
n 


150 


manaceml:nt  or  frtit  TRun». 


ground.  This  is  considered  the  be&t  ligatiirt',  as  it  doei 
not  cut  the  bark,  as  small  cords  often  do,  and  it  gradu- 
ally gives  way  as  the  tree  increases  in  size.  When 
thus  planted,  well  manured  and  looked  alter  subsequent- 
ly, the  tree  thrives,  and  in  a  lew  years  rewards  the  ow- 
ner  with  its  delicious  and  abundant  iruit. 

The  season  for  planting  may  be  any  time  after  the 
fall  of  the  leaf  by  Irost,  in  autumn,  till  its  reappearance 
in  the  spring,  provided  the  ground  be  not  frozen.  Ear- 
ly in  the  spring  is  preferred  for  planting  stone  fruits; 
for  other  fruits,  if  one  time  be  equally  convenient  with 
another,  they  recommend  fall  planting,  as  the  earth 
then  becomes  settled  about  the  roots  of  the  tree  early  in 
the  s'-'asoh.  This  is  particularly  advantageous  when 
the  spring  is  succeeded  by  a  severe  summer's  drought. 
So  important  is  the  operation  of  planting,  that  it  is  con- 
tended, belter  have  one  tree  well  planted  than  three 
j.»lanted  badly  ;  and  more  fruit  may  be  anticipated  with- 
in the  first  ten  years  if  not  forever,  from  the  first  one 
than  from  all  the  others. 

The  trees  are  never  planted  in  the  apple  orchard  at 
a  less  distance  than  2  rods,  and  40  feet  is  the  distance 
for  apple  trees  most  frequently.  Close  planting  pre- 
vents the  trees  from  receiving  the  requisite  quantity  of 
sun  and  the  free  circulation  of  air,  both  of  which  are 
essential  to  the  size,  flavor  and  perfection  of  the  fruit. 
Forty  trees  will  plant  an  acre  at  the  distance  of  two 
rods  apart.  The  consequence  of  closer  planting  is  the 
premature  decay  of  the  trees,  and  an  inferior  quality  of 
fruit.  A  previously  uncultivated  or  virgin  soil  is  said 
to  be  the  best  for  an  orchard,  but  if  such  cannot  be  had 


?»  £  V  N  1  N  G  . 


IJt 


thai  which  has  long  been  in  pasture  or  meadows  it 
most  suitable. 

The  most  efficient  manures  are  swamp  muck,  decay- 
ed leaves  and  Vegetables,  rotten  wood,  chip  manure, 
Hme,  ashes  and  gypsum.  Trees,  like  any  other  vege- 
table, draw  their  own  specific  food  largely  from  the 
soil )  and  to  supply  the  elements  of  their  growth  in  a- 
bundance,  the  earth  should  occasionally  be  renewed 
with  those  materials  which  may  have  become  partial- 
ly or  wholly  exhausted.  When  carefully  plowed  and 
cultivated  in  hoed  crops,  orchards  thrive  most  rapidly, 
care  being  always  taken  to  protect  the  trees  from  dam- 
age, either  to  the  trunk  or  roots.  When  the  lands  are 
kept  in  grass,  a  space  of  three  to  six  feet  in  diameter, 
according  to  the  size  and  age  of  the  tree,  is  always 
kept  free  from  grass  and  turf  around  them.  This  is  to 
give  the  roots  of  the  trees  their  share  of  benefit  of  the 
sun  and  lains,  which  with  the  aid  of  manure,  is  of  the 
greatest  service  to  the  rapid  growth  of  the  trees. 

The  pruning  is  commenced  at  the  planting  of  the 
tree,  the  top  of  which  is  always  in  proportion  to  the 
size  and  number  of  the  roots,  11  the  top  be  high  and 
splindling,  it  is  shortened,  so  as  to  throw  the  lateral 
shoots  into  a  grraceful  and  branchino-  form.  The  limbs 
are  allowed  to  commence  about  six  feet  from  the  ground. 
The  pruning  is  done  annually,  as  the  labor  is  then  tri- 
fling and  the  expenditure  of  the  vital  force  in  maturing 
wood,  which  would  if  delayed  afterwards  have  to  be 
cut  off  is  thus  saved,  and  the  branches  thus  removed  be- 
ing small,  the  wounds  are  readily  healed.  In  this  case 
no  coyering  is  required,  for  the  wound  is  small  and  one 


If 


m 


It;!** 


152 


VAUIOL'S  KIN'DS  01*  VRmT. 


I 


m 


season's  growth  will  hoal  it.  The  tree  is  so  trimmed 
that  the  topis  sufficiently  open  to  admit  the  sun  and 
air.  The  time  recommended  as  best  for  trimming  is 
when  the  tree  is  m  bloom  and  the  sap  in  full  flow.  The 
proper  instrument  is  a  fine  saw  or  sharp  knife,  and  the 
limb  is  cut  offclose  to  the  remaining  branch.  The  sap 
is  at  this  time  active  and  is  readily  converted  into  new 
bark  and  wood,  which  speedily  forms  over  the  cut.  If 
pruning  is  delayed,  it  is  recommended  that  the  wound 
be  secured  by  an  efficient  covering  of  salve.  Old  trees 
or  such  as  are  growing  vigorously  and  have  been  long 
neglected,  often  require  severe  trimming,  which  should 
always  be  done  in  May  or  June,  and  when  the  wounds 
are  large  they  should  be  covered  with  a  coat  of  thick 
Spanish  brown  paint  or  grafting  wax.  If  they  arelefl 
exposed,  and  the  growth  of  the  tree  be  slow,  decay 
will  of^en  take  place  before  they  are  healed.  Too 
much  care  cannot  be  used  in  these  operations. 

We  here  seen  no  less  than  30  different  kinds  of  ap- 
ple trees,  each  of  which  it  is  desirable  to  cultivate. 

Summer  Apples. — Early  Harvest,  Red  Astracan,  large 
Yellow  Bough,  Williams'  Favorite. 

Autumn  Jlpples.-  Golden  Sweet,  Fall  Pippin,  Gra- 
venstain,  Jerse}^  Sweeting,  Pumkin  Kusset,  (known  by 
some  as  Bellebonne,)  Rambo. 

Winter  Apples. — Westfield,  Seek-no-farther,  Bald- 
win, Black  Apple,  Yellow  Bellefleur,  Detroit,  Hub- 
bardston.  None-such,  Green  and  Yellow  Newtown  Pip- 
pin, Northern  Spy,  Blue  Pearmain,  Peck's  Pleasant, 
Rhode  Island  Greening,  American  Golden  Russet,  En- 
glish Russet,  Roxbury  Russet,  Svvaar,  Ladies'  Sweeting, 


Lalman\s 
pie  and  ^ 
Amonj 
a  dozen 
far  been 
sally  app 
and  perf( 
Siimm 
Bartlett 
Autur. 
or  Virga 
Wintei 
ter  Nelii 
The  J 
able  in  I 
Fey  and 
orchards 
of the  gi 
Theb 
the  red  i 
Early  T 
White 
succeed 
The 
Bleech( 
red  gag 
ington, 
Cher 
red  Kei 
lish  M 
large  r< 


VARi()i:s  K\s\)^  or  rnriT. 


153 


Lalman-s  S\vpc'tin<r,  Esopiiis  SpIlzonbiTg,  \Vnxt>n  Ap- 
ple and  Wine  Apple. 

Among  the  pears  I  noted  in  their  ordrr  of  ripening, 
a  dozen  choice  kinds,  the  cultivation  of  which  has  thus 
far  been  thoroughly  successful  and  the  quality  univer- 
sally approved,  as  promising  more  durability,  hardiness 
and  perfect  adaptation  to  climate  and  soil. 

Summer  Vears. — Bloodgood,  Dearborn's  Seedling, 
Bartlett  or  Willianns'  Bon  Chretien,  Steven's  Genesee. 

Autumn  Pears. — Beurre  Diel,  Dix,  White  Doyenne 
or  Virtralieu,  Duches  D'Ano-ouleme. 

Winter  Pears. — Beurre  D'Aramborg,  Columbia,  W^in- 
ter  Nelis,  Prince's  St.  Germain. 

The  peach  orchards  are  not  so  prospering  and  profit- 
able in  New  York  as  they  are  in  the  States  of  Ne-w  Jer- 
sey and  Delaware.  There  are  however  numerous  peach 
orchards  which  are  frequently  cultivated  as  the  stirring 
of  the  ground  is  necessary  for  their  growth  and  bearing. 

The  best  kinds  in  succession  from  early  to  late,  are 
the  red  and  yellow  Rareripes,  Makacatune,  Early  York, 
Early  Tillotson,  George  the  fourth,  Morris'  Red  and 
White  Rareripes,  Malta  and  Royal  George.  These 
succeed  each  other  from  August  to  October. 

The  kinds  of  plum  are  the  yellow,  green,  autumn, 
Bleecher's,  Imperial,  Prince's  yellow,  Frost,  Purple  & 
red  gages,  Coe's  golden  drop,  Jefferson,  Grange,  Wash-: 
ington,  Columbia,  Smith's  Orleans  &  red  magnum  bonum, 

Chennes. — The  varieties  most  in  use  are  the  commo4 
red  Kentish  or  pie  Cherry,  familiar  to  every  one,  Engr 
lish  May  duke,  black  Tartaxian,  Bigarreau,  Graffion, 
large  red  Bigarreau,  Elton,  Belle  d'Chpisy,  &late  Dukf, 


% 

il;: 


I 


I  'f' 


IJi 


ni:MAi;K*  ox  rAFniiNrt. 


C  II  A  P  T  E  R    XIII. 


I'!. 


l\ 


ilil 


Kdueatiun  ofihe  Fanner — Hospitality — Desire  for  ugriculttiral 
knowledge — Remarks  on  the  progress  and  science  of  agricul- 
ture— Departure  for  Niagara  Falis — Black  Ruck — Niagara 
River — Ferry- Boat — Approach  of  the  Falls  from  Black  Rock 
—Navy  Island — Bridge — American  Rapid — Goat  Island — A- 
merican  Fall — Width  of  Goat  Island — Great  or  Horse  Shoe 
Fall — Narrow  Rapid — Tower — Grand  Scene — Platform  over 
the  verge  of  the  American  Fall — Point  View  Garden — Chi- 
nese Pagoda  and  Camara  Obscura — Delightful  prospect — Fer- 
ry stair-case — Foot  of  the  American  Fall — Ferry- Boat — Tow- 
ering CliiTs — Sublime  scene — Canadian  shore — Table  Rock — 
Prospect — Foot  of  the  Horse- Shoe  Fall — Passing  behind  the 
Fall — Terrific  sounds — Height  of  the  Fall — Recession  of  the 
Cataract. 

After  I  had  examined  to  some  extent,  the  mode  ol 
agriculture  and  the  splendid  farms  on  the  same  ground 
which  was  but  a  few  years  ago  a  perfect  wilderness, 
and  now  blossoming  as  a  rose,  animated  by  a  rural  pop- 
ulation whose  busy  intelligence  in  the  agricultural  art, 
more  thoroughly  convinced  me  that  a  periect  system  of 
iagriculture  cannot  be  understood  without  the  applica- 
tion of  scientific  painciples,  as  the  whole  system  is  ba- 
sed on  the  exact  acquaintance  with  the  means  of  vege- 
table nutrition. 

Here  I  found  a  large  majority  of  the  farmers  who 
have  acquired  an  elementary  knowledge  of  mechanics, 
botany,  chemistry  and  geology,  and  also  some  acquaint- 
ance with  anatomy  and  physiology,  together  with  a 
complete  practical  understanding  of  the  manual  opera- 
tions of  the  farm,  the  best  manner  of  planting,  cultiva- 
ting and  securing  crops.     They  are  familiar  with  the 


AGIUCULTVRAL  EDULATJOX. 


155 


proper  management,  feeding  and  breeding  of  animalj, 
the  treatment  of  the  soils,  the  application  of  manures, 
and  all  the  various  matters  connected  with  agriculture. 
In  each  of  these  departments  of  knowledge  I  received 
some  valuable  information,  which  T  before  said  these 
intelligent  farmers  are  ever  as  ready  to  give  as  a  stran- 
ger can  be  to  ask  it.  With  these  great  farmers  this  is 
but  the  commencement  of  their  education,  as  they  are 
also  learning  from  their  own  experience,  which'is  the 
most  certain  and  complete  knowledge  they  can  obtain, 
as  they  ascertain  all  the  circumstances  which  have  led 
to  certain  results.  I  was  here  truly  delighted  to  ob- 
serve the  enterprise,  and  the  noble  desire  of  these  far- 
mers for  agricultural  knowledge ;  every  one  is  found  to 
learn  from  his  own  experience  as  well  as  that  of  his 
neighbors,  and  his  observations  on  every  subject  that 
comes  within  his  notice.  He  is  particularly  assisted 
by  the  cheap  agricultural  journals  of  the  present  day, 
which  embrace  the  latest  experience  of  some  of  our  best 
farmers  throughout  remote  sections  of  the  country,  on 
almost  every  subject  pertaining  to  his  occupation;  and 
is  thus  supplying  the  only  link  remaining  m  the  thor- 
ough education  of  the  farmer. 

These  people  endow  and  foster  every  institution 
which  has  a  tendency  to  raise  and  improve  the  intel- 
lectual, moral  and  social  condition  of  the  people,  which 
appears  to  ever  be  their  cherished  policy.  Yet  up  to 
this  time,  to  the  regret  of  this  people,  no  institution  eX" 
pressly  designed  for  the  professional  education  of  farm- 
ers, has  ever  been  established  in  this  country,  an  insti- 
tution much  desired,  as  they  declare  that  they  are  as 


156 


DESIRK  FOR    AGRUJULTMUAL    KNOWLKDOi:. 


yet  only  upon  the  threshhi^ld  ol  the  great  temple  ol'a^^- 
ricultural  science,  whose  ample  and  enduring  founda- 
tions have  been  commenced  by  the  united  efforts  of  the 
men  of  genius  throughout  both  hemispheres.  They 
are  however  aiding  with  every  means  in  their  power 
in  laying  the  foundations  broad  and  deep,  to  elevate 
its  superstructure,  to  rear  its  mighty  columns  and  a- 
dorn  its  graceful  capitals ;  which  to  the  stranger  from 
afar  appears  to  be  steadily  and  delightfully  advancing, 
and  seems  to  be  entirely  within  the  province  of  these 
intelligent  freemen,  the  great  business  of  whose  lives 
is  the  practice  of  agriculture.  ,    ^,     ,,.. 

When  we  reflect  on  the  great  developement  which 
agricultural  chemistry  is  now  making  for  the  benefit  of 
agricultural  economy,  the  now  progressive  march  ot 
our  moral  population  in  mental  culture,  we  cannot  but 
feel  a  regret  that  this  renowned  old  Dominion  has  not 
as  yet  adopted  more  extensively  the  mode  of  agricul- 
ture carried  on  by  the  people  of  western  New  York, 
and  the  Yankees  of  the  east.     It  is  the  more  to  be  re- 
gretted, as  we  are  satisfied  that  the  intelligent  people 
of  Virginia  are  aware  of  the  indispensable  necessity  of 
an  advanced  agriculture,  to  the  comforts  and  wealth, 
and  indeed  to  the  very  existence  of  a  great  nation,  ren- 
ders it  an  object  peculiarly  worthy  the  attention  and 
regard  of  the  legislative  power. 

In  looking  to  the  history  both  of  ancient  and  modern 
times,  we  find  that  wherever  a  people  have  risen  to  en- 
during eminence,  they  have  sedulonsly  encouraged  and 
protected  this  right  arm  of  their  strength.  Would  that 
it  was  adopted  over  the  length  and  breadth  of, our  land 


and  to  th 
State  of 
over  the 
ing  more 
fields  an( 
ly  redee 
highway 
rural  po 
cultural 
interest i 
duction. 
an  acre 
number 
In  vi 
tance  to 
with  th 
this  occ 
lect  fitt 
cision, 
causes  i 
It  was 
nature, 
Eden, 
his  sol 
bledh 
dicati^ 
and  tc 
field ; 
whats 
the  ni 
In 


sciLNCE  or  AcnicrLirnn. 


15' 


and  to  the  same  perfoction  that  it  is  carried  on  in  the 
State  of  New  York.  Then  instead  of  travelling  a  mile 
over  the  most  fertile  portion  of  the  earth,  without  see- 
ing more  than  two  or  three  human  tenements,  with 
fields  and  fallows,  whose  unpromising  appearance  hard- 
ly redeem  them  from  the  desert,  we  should  find  every 
highway  a  continuous  rambling  village,  tinimated  by  a 
rural  population,  whose  busy  intelligence  in  the  agri- 
cultural art,  would  offer  to  the  eye  of  the  beholder  the 
interesting  spectacle  of  the  maxium  of  vegetable  pro- 
duction. The  problem  would  then  be  solved,  of  what 
an  acre  can  be  made  to  produce,  by  examples  without 
number. 

In  view  of  its  intricacy,  its  magnitude  and  its  impor- 
tance to  the  human  race,  we  cannot  fail  to  be  struck 
with  the  peculiar  wisdom  of  Deity,  in  assigning  to  man 
this  occupation,  when  a  far-seeing  and  vigorous  intel- 
lect fitted  him  to  scan  with  unerring  certainty  and  pre- 
cision, the  visible  works  of  his  Creator,  and  trace  their 
causes  and  effects  through  all  their  varied  relations. — 
It  was  while  in  the  sinless  perfection  of  his  original 
nature,  when  the  Lord  God  put  him  into  the  garden  of 
Eden,  to  dress  it  and  to  keep  it,  and  agriculture  was 
his  sole  occupation,  that  his  godlike  intelligence  ena- 
bled him,  instinctively  to  give  appropriate  names,  in- 
dicative of  their  true  nature  or  character,  to  all  cattle, 
and  to  the  fowl  of  the  air,  and  to  every  beast  of  the 
field ;  and  so  just  and  accurate  was  his  perception,  that 
whatsoever  he  called  every  living  creature,  that  was 
the  name  thereof.  '  '     ,  ' 

In  our   present   imperfect    condition,   a   beneficent 


» 


s 


!i-  ^  ••; 


I , 


?'T-, 


158 


«("ll!NCli  or  AtJillCULTU'RK. 


I 


Providence  has  reserved  a  moderate  success  in  agricul- 
ture exclusively  to  the  exercise  of  a  high  degree  of  in- 
telligence.  His  laws  have  been  so  kindly  framed,  that 
the  hand  even  of  uninstructed  toil,  may  receive  some 
requital  in  remunerating  harvests,  while  their  utmost 
fullness  can  be  anticipated  only  where  corporeal  efforts 
are  directed  by  the  highest  intelligence. 

The  agricultural  life  may  be  incompatible  with  the 
high  pursuits  of  science  ;  these  require  the  exclusive  de- 
votion of  the  life,  for  in  this  as  in  all  other  cases,  he 
who  would  woo  the  muses,  must  bid  farewell  to  pro- 
fessional eminence.  But  there  are  many  practical  far- 
mers, as  there  are  practical  men  in  all  other  departments 
of  life,  who  have  distinguished  themselves  in  knowl- 
edge and  literature.  Thompson  and  Cowper  have  sung 
the  charms  of  rural  life.  How  powerfully  are  rural 
pursuits  adapted  to  awaken  a  strong  interest ! 

The  pastoral  life  has  always  been  deemed  favorable 
to  high  and  religious  conceptions.  One  shepherd  has 
poured  forth  his  soul  in  the  holiest  and  lofliest  strains ; 
"When  I  consider  the  heavens,  the  work  of  thv  fin- 
gers,  the  sun  and  moon,  which  thou  hast  ordained, 
what  is  man,  that  thou  art  mindful  of  him,  and  the  son 
of  man  that  thou  visitest  him*" 

While  travelling  through  this  great  agricultural  re- 
gion,  I  could  not  but  feel  a  desire  that  some  of  the  in- 
telligent and  more  enterprising  farmers  of  the  old  Do- 
minion would  visit  western  New  York,  and  take  les- 
sons from  these  great  farmers,  and  return  using  their 
influence  and  exertions  in  sustaining  and  carrying  for- 
ward the  great  agricultural  improvements  of  this  region. 


To  agri( 
most  no 
(her  or 
the  perr 
trreat  R« 
""  Ithei 
no  remo 
land  wi 
vT  digni 
think  th 
are,  it  i 
In  othe 
applaus 
I  was  d 
by  the 
cool  CO 
the  cas< 
by  raisi 
dignity 
would 
personi 
mer  w 
twre  of 
tween 
ofBuf 
Aft< 
such  c 
promi 
the  ca 
ra,  at 
I  pasi 


bl.  ACK     AOCK» 


Ian 


l»l 


To  ugrlcultun*,  the  most  healthful,  the  most  useful,  tho 
most  noble  employment  of  man,  rather  than  to  any  o- 
Iher  or  perhaps  all  others  combined,  must  we  look  for 
the  permanent  strength,  glory  and  happiness  of  our 
trreat  Republic. 

I  therefore  hope  there  is  a  day  coming,  and  that  at 
no  remote  distance,  that  the  length  and  breadth  of  our 
land  will  raise  the  profession  of  agriculture  to  its  prop- 
ter dignity,  and  not  allow  a  lawyer  or  merchant  to 
think  that  he  loses  caste  by  becoming  a  farmer.  There 
are,  it  is  true,  impediments  to  so  desirable  a  result. — 
In  other  pursuits  men  are  stiiiulated  by  tUe  rewards  of 
applause  or  fame.  In  these  jjighiy  cultivated  regions, 
J  was  delighted  to  see  that  the  farmer  was  not  received 
by  the  lawyer,  the  doctor  and  the  r^erchant  wi'h  that 
cool  courtesy  and  scorn,  which  is  unhapp  '^  too  often 
the  case  in  Virginia.  Perhaps  she  coulc  remed"^  this, 
by  raising  the  profession  of  agricultu^'e  to  its  ;^iOper 
dignity,  by  following  the  footsteps  of  New  York,  whi  jh 
would  have  a  great  tendency  to  disarm  such  of  those 
personages  of  many  of  their  whims,  who  meet  the  far- 
mer with  scorn.  This  ends  the  sketch  on  the  agricul- 
ture of  New  York,  or  at  least  that  part  of  the  State  be- 
tween the  city  of  Troy,  on  the  Hudson,  and  the  city 
of  Buffalo,  on  Lake  Erie. 

After  remaining  seve.  Jays  in  BuirJo  and  viewing 
such  objects  as  I  considered  worthy  of  notice,  the  most 
prominent  of  which  iiave  already  been  given,  I  took 
the  cars  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  Falls  of  Niaga- 
ra, at  a  di?tance  of  22  miles,  in  going  to  which  place, 
I  passed  through  the  towns  of  Black  Rock,  which  con- 


n 


I 


160 


FALLS  or  xVIAGAHA. 


tains  a  population  of  3625,  and  Tonawanta,  with  a  pop- 
ulation of  1216.  The  former  is  beautifully  situated  on 
Niagara  river,  at  the  distance  of  4  miles  from  the  city 
of  Buffalo.  The  town  is  well  situated  for  trade,  as  the 
Niagara  is  navigable  to  this  place,  and  as  far  down  as 
Chippewa  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river,  at  which 
place  it  becomes  endangered  by  the  rapids  occasioned 
by  the  Falls.  At  the  town  of  Black  Rock  there  is  a 
ferry-boat.  The  river  is  here  about  a  mile  mide.  The 
water  issues  forth  in  a  very  deep  and  impetuous  cur- 
rent, and  the  ferry-boat  describes  a  "'/ery  considerable 
curve  before  reaching  the  Canadian  shore.  Here  in  a 
manner  commence  the  beauties  of  the  mighty  cataract. 
JViagara  Falls. — The  power  of  language  in  descri- 
bing the  imposing  grandeur  and  sublimity  of  this  won- 
der of  wonders,  is  just  like  the  faint  glimmering  of  a 
taper,  when  contrasted  with  the  bright  effulgence  of 
the  meredian  sun.  The  most  that  man  can  say  in  the 
matter,  is  that  it  is  the  most  sublime  and  stupendous 
scene  in  nature.  It  is  situated  on  the  Niagara  river, 
14  miles  above  Lake  Ontario.  The  river  is  the  outlet 
of  all  the  waters  of  4  great  and  powerful  lakes,  which 
immense  body  of  water  is  here  wedged  into  a  channel 
only  three  quarters  of  a  hiile  wide.  It  issues  from  the 
northeast  end  of  lake  Erie,  forms  the  boundary  between 
the  U.  S.  and  Upper  Canada,  and  falls  into  lake  Onta- 
rio, which  is  400  feet  lower  than  lake  Erie,  being  sit- 
uated apart,  at  a  distance  of  36  miles,  which  distance 
is  occupied  by  the  Niagara  river,  which  is  from  half 
to  3  miles  wide,  which  carries  the  waters  of  those  pow- 
erful lakes  in  a  tolerable  steady  current  for  18  miles. 


>  ■:*■•!■ 


FALLS  OF  NLVCJARA. 


ItU 


From  Black  Rock  tiie  stranger  passes  down  the  A- 
merican  shore  j  he  shortly  arrives  opposite  Grand  Isl- 
and, produced  by  the  forking  of  the  river.  Each  arm 
of  the  river  is  here  more  than  a  mile  wide,  and  the 
western  channel  forms  the  boundary  between  Canada 
and  the  State  of  New  York.  Passing  this  and  Navy 
Island,  the  stream  becomes  about  24  miles  wide,  and 
Chippewa  as  before  noticed  on  the  Canadian  shore,  ter- 
minates the  navigation  of  the  upper  part  of  the  Niaga- 
ra, for  the  rapidity  of  the  stream  soon  becomes  so  strong 
that  vessels  cannot  with  safety  venture  farther  down. 
Passing  this  a  short  distance,  the  traveller  will  observe 
at  a  distance  the  agitated  billows,  and  soon  after  the 
white-crested  breakers.  Passing  on  he  comes  oppo- 
site Goat  Island,  standino;  like  a  wedo-e  in  the  centre  of 
the  stream,  which  divides  the  river  into  two  currents, 
wherein  the  roarinoj  and  tumblino;  billows  roll  withter- 
rible  impetuosity  to  their  respective  leaps.  Passing 
down  the  shore  of  the  American  rapid,  till  within  a- 
bout  300  yards  of  the  fall,  there  is  a  bridge  over  the 
rapid  to  Goat  Island.  In  passing  over  this  bridge,  about 
midway  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  American  rapid  ; 
though  much  smaller  than  the  rapids  on  the  Canadian 
side  of  the  island,  yet  the  troubled  billows  roll  beneath 
your  feet  with  fearful  grandeur,  in  their  hurried  course 
to  the  brink,  where  they  in  part  display  that  awful 
grandeur  which  is  beyond  the  power  of  language  to 
express.  On  arriving  at  the  shore  of  the  Island,  we 
were  requested  to  fork  over  25  cents  toll,  and  register 
our  names  in  a  book  kept  for  the  purpose,  which  enti- 
tles us  to  a  passage  for  twelve  months  from  that  date. 


IS 


i: 


162 


TALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


After  passing  through  the  gate,  immediately  before  you 
is  a  large  and  elegant  building,  containing  a  splendid 
collection  of  Indian  curiosities.     But  the  traveller  has* 
tens  on,  deafened   by    the   far-famed  cataract,  whose 
thunders  cause  him  to  hasten  his  pace  to  get  a  glimpse 
at  the   wonder.     He   turns   immediately   to  the  right 
and  a  few  paces  brings  him  to  the  American  fall  on  its 
right  bank,  and  places  him  on  the  verge  of  the  preci- 
pice between  the  two  falls.     After  the  astonishment 
excited  in  the  mind  abates  to  some  extent,  he  will  see 
the  farther  extremity  of  the  semicircle,  breaking  in  a 
broad  white  sheet  ol  foam,  upon  a  heap  of  rocks  below. 
Close  by  its  inner  extremity  is  a  gush  of  water  which 
in  any  other  situation,  would  appear  a  considerable 
cascade,  but  here  it  seems  only  a  fragment  of  the  larger 
cataract,  separated  by  a  small  island  or  rock  in  the  bed 
of  the  river.     The  whole  of  this  fall  is  1140  feet  wide. 
The  eye  is  drawn  upon  the  precipitous  end  of  Goat 
Island,  supporting  a  scanty  covering  of  earth  &  crowd- 
ed to  the  edge  with  pines,  which  is  984  feet   or  328 
yards  to  the  edge  of  the  Great  Fall.     In  passing  through 
this  island  of  pines,  which  conceal  at  intervals  portions 
of  this  scenerv,  and  the  deep  hollow  thunder  of  the 
cataracts,  mingled  with  the  roar  of  the  long  and  angry 
rapid,  vvill  cause  the  traveller  to  quicken  his  pace,  and 
he  soon  arrives  at  the  most  stupendous  fall  on  the  face 
of  the  globe.     The  astonishment  here  excited  in  the 
mind  at  the  magnitude  and  grandeur  of  this  scene  of 
scenes,  is  without  a  parallel.     After  collecting  himself 
sufficiently,  he  will  pass  over  a  bridge  constructed  over 
a  rapid  about  100  feet  wide,  when  he  arrives  at  a  tow- 


er ere 
Great 
sembla 
tre  of 
rolls  b 
of  the 
say  ca 
so  on 
appal 
view 
parall 
ascen 


m 


liORSK-SHOfi  FALL. 


16S 


)re  you 
>lendid 
er  has* 
whose 
glimpse 
e  right 
on  its 
preci- 

shment 
ill  see 
;  in  a 

below. 

which 
erable 

■larger 

he  bed 

;  wide. 

fGoat 

Towd- 

)r  328 

rough 

>rtions 

)f  the 

angry 

?,  and 

J  face 

fi  the 

ne  of 

mself 
over 

tow- 


er erected  on  a  great  rock,  at  the  very  edge  of  the 
(areat  or  Horse-Shoe  Fall,  so  called  as  it  bears  some  re- 
semblance to  the  form  of  a  horse-shoe.  From  the  cen- 
tre of  this  fall  rises  a  prodigious  cloud  of  mist,  which 
rolls  heavenward  in  rablime  grandeur,  while  the  rays 
of  the  sun  add  sublimity  to  the  scene,  which  travellers 
say  can  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  50  miles.  Here  al- 
so on  the  very  brink  of  the  precipice,  is  given  a  more 
appalling  impression  of  the  horrors  of  the  scene,  as  the 
view  Irom  the  edpje  of  this  rock  is  certainly  without  a 
parallel.     The  next  move  of  the  traveller  will  be  to 

ascend  the  tower. 

As  T  am  here  the  tower  I  now  ascend, 
While  proud  Niagara's  wateis  round  nie  bend; 
Up  the  steps  till  I  gain  the  utmost  verge — 
Far,  far  below,  beheld  the  angry  surge  ; 
Beneath  your  feet  the  rainbow's  arch  declines. 
Gleaming  with  richer  gems  than  India's  mines; 
And  deep  within  the  gulf  yet  farther  down, 
IVlid  mist,  foam  and  spray,  behold  Niagara's  crown. 
After  viewing  this  grand  scene  from  the  top  of  this 

tower,  the  traveller  will  return  in  the  same  way  that 
he  came  to  the  American  shore  ;  after  recrossing  the 
bridge  over  the  American  rapid,  he  will  turn  to  the 
left,  and  follow  down  the  left  bank  of  the  rapid,  about 
300  yards,  brings  him  again  to  the  American  fall,  on 
opposite  bank  from  which  he  viewed  it  before.  Here 
is  a  platform  erected  with  long  timbers  well  framed, 
with  a  strong  railing,  which  is  placed  obliquely  over 
the  edge  of  the  precipice  ;  the  end  nearest  the  bank  be- 
ing well  balanced  down  with  rock,  while  the  other 
end  extends  about  ten  feet  over  the  verge  of  the  preci- 
pice. From  this  the  stranger  can  look  down  into  the 
awful  abyss  beneath,  and  behold  a  cloud  of  mist  as- 


IG'l. 


(■IlIN!:r<E  r^^CODA. 


ceiidino;  in  sublime  s-raiuleur  toward  him.  At  a  dis- 
tance  of  about  80  yards  irom  this  tall,  is  situated  Point 
View  Garden,  tastefully  and  handsomely  laid  out,  in 
which  and  near  the  precipice  is  situated  the  Chinese 
Pago  and  Chimera  Obscura.  On  arriving  at  this,  the 
traveller  is  requested  to  pay  over  25  cents  for  admit- 
tance, in  doing  which  and  registering  his  name,  he  is 
entitled  to  promenade  the  garden,  and  the  use  of  the 
Pagoda  during  his  residence  at  the  tails.  This  splen- 
did garden  is  elevated  30  feet  above  the  fall ;  the  Pago- 
da is  75  feet  high,  the  top  of  which  is  gained  by  a  cir- 
cular staircase. 

Strangers  by  first  visiting  the  top  of  this  edifice  will 
save  themselves  much  trouble  and  fatio;ue,  as  almost 
every  object  of  interest  on  either  sideol  the  river  from 
Grand  Island  to  the  Whirlpool  rapids,  are  in  view  from 
this  building.  The  proprietor,  Mr.  Robinson,  will 
point  out  to  travellers,  the  nearest  road  to  each,  and  the 
easiest  mode  of  access  to  the  very  point  from  which 
they  can  he  seen  with  pleasure  and  advantage.  The 
top  of  the  Pagoda  is  crowned  with  a  chimera  obscura, 
not  perhaps  surpassed,  if  equalled  tor  minute  and  liv- 
ing delineation,  by  any  other  in  the  world  j  exhibiting 
in  all  its  brilliant  coloring,  the  splendid  scenery  of  the 
falls,  the  chain  bridge,  1  k  miles  below,  the  numerous 
picturesque  islands  that  stud  the  river,  the  rapids  above 
and  below  the  mighty  cataract,  the  rich  amphiteatre  of 
the  Canadian  shore  :  in  short,  a  panoramic  view  of  ev- 
er}'' thing  stationary  or  in  motion,  that  is  in  sight,  there 
being  a  revolution  of  the  mirror,  which*  delineates  in 
succession  the  £"rand  scenerv  of  the  s.  rroundino^  country. 


1 

T 

Fi 

T 

Is] 

oj 

1 

The 

an  side 
immedii 
consists! 
down  ii 
grade  o 
right  ai 
each  ot 
each  si< 
The  rai 
is  let  d( 
an  engi 
which 
son  ma 
ease  an 
lar  hei; 
go  up 
rocks  s 
shado\ 
soon  b 
most  I 
ttie  ra 
kind, 
Shoe 

feet  i 

rockj 


rtllUtV  STAIKCASK. 


165 


And  while  I  an'  on  Pagoda's  lofty  height, 
I  slop  to  rest,  and  rapture  tills  the  sight  ) 
The  tranquil  Lake  above,  in  toliuge  rich  I  view, 
Following  the  scene  the  whirlpool  rapids  too, — 
That  watery  mist  that  forms  the  radiant  how. 
Is  nature's,  yes  nature's  sublimest  show  ! 
Oh  !  rapturous  gaze,  yet  had  I  Shakespeare's  pen, 
1  would  not,  could  not  take  the  prospect  in. 
The  traveller  on  leaving  the  Pagoda  for  the  Canadi- 
an side  of  the  river,  will  observe  the  Ferry  Staircase, 
immediately  to  the  south  of  the  garden.     This  staircase 
consists  of  steps  from  near   a  level   with   the  garden, 
down  into  the  gulf  on  a  level  with  the  water,   with  a 
grade  of  about  forty  degrees  ;  the  steps   being   on  the 
right  and  a  railway  on  the  left,  running  parallel  with 
each  other.     The  whole  is  under  roof,  and  walls  on 
each  side,  the  better  to  protect  it  from  the  weather.- — 
The  railway  contains  a  small  car  for  two  persons,  which 
is  let  down  and  drawn  up  on  the  track,  by  means  ol 
an  engine  propelled  by  water  power  near  the  ialls  ;  by 
which  car  or  staircase  the  most  nervous  and  timid  per- 
son may  descend  to  the  bottom  of  the   cataract  'with 
ease  and  safety,  though  about  250  feet  in  perpendicu- 
lar height.     Here  the  traveller  may  turn  to  the  left, 
go  up  the  stream  a  few  paces,  and  climb  over  some 
rocks  at  the  loot  of  the  towering  precipice  which  over- 
shadowa  him.     This  path  is  a  rough  and  wet  onej  but 
soon  brings  him  to  the  foot  of  the  American    Fall,  a 
most  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  and  well  worthy  to  hold 
the  rank  of  the  second  wondef  of  the  world  of  this 
kind,  although  it  cannot  be    compared  to  the  Horse- 
Shoe  Fall  in  grandeur  and  sublimity.     It  is  about  1140 

feet  in  breadth,  as  before   stated,  and   either  from  its 
rocky  bed  being  composed  oi  harder  materials,  or  from 


■^iMMMMff' 


166 


IL^BUMC  SCE.Vfi. 


the  greater  weight  of  Water  coming  down  the  Canadi- 
an  side,  and  wearing  away  that  channel  more  rapidly, 
it  is  about  20  feet  higher  than  the  Horse-Shoe  fall.  It 
does  not  fall  into  a  gulf  or  caldron  as  the  Horse-Shoe 
fall  does,  but  among  huge  rocks  where  it  dashes  itself 
into  an  ocean  of  foam,  and  then  rushes  with  tremen- 
dous velocity  to  join  its  former  companion. 

We  now  return  to  the  foot  of  the  staircase  from  which 
we  came,  and  there  take  a  boat  for  the  Canadian  shore. 
On  reaching  the  middle  of  the  river,  the  attention  is 
engaged  by  the  surpassing  grandeur  of  the  scene.  Look 
to  the  right,  you  see  the  milkwhite  surges  rolling  on- 
ward and  onward  in  awful  grandeur,  in  this  deep  nar- 
row chasm  of  only  about  600  yards  wide,  with  tower- 
ing banks  of  about  300  feet  in  perpendicular  height. — 
Look  to  the  left,  and  behold  within  an  area  of  a  semi- 
circle of  cataracts  more  than  3000  feet  in  extent,  and 
while  floating  on  the  creamy  surface  of  an  awful  gulf, 
raging,  fathomless  and  interminable,  majestic  cliffs, 
splendid  rainbows,  lofty  trees  and  columns  of  spray 
are  the  gorgeous  decorations  of  this  theatre  of  wonders  ; 
while  a  dazzling  sun  shed  refulgent  glories  upon  every 
part  of  the  scene.  Surrounded  with  clouds  of  vapor, 
and  stunned  into  a  state  of  confusion  and  terror  by  the 
hideous  noise,  the  traveller  looks  upward  to  the  height 
*of  167  feet,  where  are  vast  floods,  dense,  awful  and  stu- 
pendous, vehemently  bursting  over  the  precipice,  and 
rolling  down,  as  if  the  windows  of  heaven  wpie  open- 
ed to  pour  another  deluge  upon  the  earth. 

Tlio'  nerves  may  tremble  and  fears  may  alarm, 
Yet  I  glide  these  milky  '.vavcs  secnio  from  harm.—- 


SL'BL1M£  SCENS. 


167 


I.   It 


t  loft  old  Augusta,  my  friends  and  home, 
Mid  this  sublime  theatre  of  scenes  to  roam. 
Wondrous  subHme,  transcending  all  Tve  seen  ; 
Here's  something  more  than  language  can  explain  ; 
Those  sparkling  torrents  falling  Irom  these  heights, 
Gilded  with  the  sun  by  day  and  moon  by  night. 

To  add  still  more  to  the  awful  grandeur  presented  to 
the  traveller,  as  he  stands  in  his  little  boat,  gazing  on 
nature's  grandest  scene,  are  the  loud  sounds  resembling 
discharges  of  artillery  or  volcanic  explosions,  which 
are  distinguishable  amid  the  watery  tumult,  and  adding 
terror  to  the  gulf  in  which  he  has  moored  his  little 
boat,  which  has  more  the  appearance  of  floating  on  the 
surface  of  milk  than  of  water.  Draw  your  mind  irom 
those  terrific  sounds,  and  you  again  behold  with  de- 
light, the  sun  looking  majestically  through  the  ascend- 
ing spray,  while  it  is  encircled  by  the  most  radiant  ha- 
lo, while  rainbows  which  apparently  have  tenfold  the 
brilliancy  and  gaudiness  of  those  viewed  in  the  heav- 
ens, can  here  be  seen  raising  their  majestic  arches  over 
the  mighty  gulf  or  caldron  into  which  that  stupendous 
sheet  of  water  falls,  together  with  numerous  fragments 
of  smaller  ones  floating  on  every  side,  which  would 
momentarily  vanish,  only  to  give  place  to  a  succession 
of  others,  very  often  more  brilliant  than  those  just  van- 
ished. 

The  traveller  can  now  have  his  little  boat  moored  on 
to  the  Canadian  shore,  where  there  is  a  cab  in  readi- 
ness for  him,  which  will  take  him  to  such  place  as  he 
may  wish  to  go,  by  ascending  the  towering  cliff  by 
means  of  a  road  hewn  obliquely  up  the  side  of  the  pre- 
cipice. Once  out  of  the  mighty  gulf,  we  direct  our 
diiver  to  take  us  to  the  Table-Rock,  which  is  consider- 


1G8 


T  A  B  L  K  -  il  O  C  K  . 


ed  by  travellers  the  best  point  which  can  be  gained,  as 
it  affords  the  spectator  a  complete  view  of  this  fall, 
commandidg  at  the  same  time  the  whole  of  the  furious 
rapid  above,  from  the  first  tumultuous  roll  ol  the  waves 
down  through  its  foaming  course,  till  it  subsides  in  the 
middle  of  the  curve  into  momentary  smoothness,  and 
then  dashes  below  in  that  awful  grandeur  so  often  re- 
peated. From  the  rising  ground  above  the  Table-Rock 
there  is  perhaps  a  better  view  of  the  various  features  of 
the  landscape.  I  however,  did  not  consider  it  so  good 
for  viewing  the  falls  as  some  do,  because  one  is  eleva- 
ted considerably  above  the  most  important  objects  ;  a 
^tuation  highly  disadvantageous  to  powerful  impres- 
sions, while  almost  every  other  point  of  land  from  which 
the  falls  can  be  viewed  on  either  the  American  or  Ca- 
nadian shores,  possess  the  power  of  exciting  the  mind 
to  such  an  extent,  by  the  magnitude  and  grandeur  of  the 
scene,  that  for  the  first  time  the  traveller  can  scarcely 
collect  himself  sufficientlVi  to  be  able  to  form  a  tolera- 
ble  conception  of  the  stupendous  scene  before  him. — 
It  is  impossible  even  from  the  Table-Rock,  the  best 
view  that  can  be  had,  for  the  eye  to  embrace  the  whole 
of  the  scene  at  once ;  it  must  gradually  make  itself  ac- 
quainted in  the  first  place,  with  the  component  parts 
of  the  scene,  each  of  which  is  of  itself  an  object  of  won- 
der. It  is  said  by  persons  who  have  an  opportunity  of 
contemplating  this  scene  at  their  leisure  for  years  to- 
gether, that  they  think  every  time  they  behold  it,  each 
part  appears  more  wonderful  and  sublime,  and  that  it 
has  only  been  at  their  last  visit  to  the  cataract,  that 
ihpy  have  boon  rnabled  to  discover  all  its  grandeur. 


the 
proach 
there  is 
rhay  vci 
gulf  ne£ 
the  staii 
cure  a 
him  in 
burstin< 
Ihis  litt] 
enterin< 
in  a  poi 
the  vast 
sound,  1 
boiling 
the  gres 
betweei 
main  bo 
rocky  o 
issues  fi 
keeps  t] 
ly  wet. 
he  is  f] 
fills  hi! 
lime  tt 
clouds 
check 
of  hug( 
gains  < 
where 
eye  ol 


1^Afesl^'(i  BEini^D  Tun  tall* 


im 


The  traveller  can  now  teav«  the  Table  Rock  and  ap»- 
proach  the  Horse-Shoe  fells,  immediately  below  which 
there  is  a  strong  and  powerful  staircase,  whereon  he 
rhay  vt'ith  perfedt  safety  descend  again'into  the  mighty 
gulf  near  the  foot  of  the  fall.  At  or  near  tlie  foot  of 
the  staircase  is  a  small  building,  at  which  he  can  pro- 
cure a  change  of  clothes,  and  a  guide  who  v/ill  conduct 
him  in  behind  the  mighty  flood,  which  is  vehemently 
bursting  over  the  precipice.  The  traveller  on  leaving 
this  little  building  with  his  guide,  for  the  purpose  of 
entering  in  behind  the  dazzling  veil  of  water,  is  placed 
in  a  position  where  he  can  more  adequately  appreciate 
the  vastness  of  the  foaming  cataracts,  their  tremendtiui 
sound,  the  terror  of  the  impending  precipice,  and  the 
boiling  of  tha  mighty  flood.  He  now  enter's  in  behind 
the  great  curtain,  where  he  has  room  enough  to  pass 
between  the  towering  precipice  on  the  right  and  the 
main  body  of  tho  watet  on  the  lefl;*  His  path  is  a  I'ough 
rocky  one,  besides  being  very  wet,  as  the  mist  which 
issues  from  the  grand  curtain  of  water  on  the  left, 
keeps  the  path  and  also  the  cUf!^on  the  right  constant- 
ly wet.  As  the  traveller  follows  on  after  his  guide, 
he  is  frightfully  stunned  by  the  appalling  noise  which 
fills  his  ear,  while  passing  through  this  isle  of  the  sul* 
lime  theatre  of  wonders  :  yet  he  folio VVs  on,  While 
clouds  of  spray  sometimes  envelope  him,  and  suddenly 
check  his  faltering  steps.  After  scrambling  over  piles 
of  huge  rocks  that  obstruct  his  way  in  some  places,  he 
gains  a  considerable  distance  in  this  alley  of  scenes, 
where  he  stands  obscured  from  the  eye  of  all,  save  the 

eye  of  his  God  and  the  guide  whom  he  followed.     He 
8 


170 


KKCESSIOri  OF  THK  TALLd, 


•taiids  here  surrounded  at  times  with  clouds  of  vapor, 
and  stunned  into  a  state  of  confusion  and  terror  by  the 
hideous  noise*  Tlie  astonished  stranger  looks  up  be- 
tween the  mighty  precipice  and  the  sublime  veil  of 
wonders  which  hides  him  from  the  world.  In  this  sit- 
uation the  soul  of  the  stranger  can  be  susceptible  only 
ot  one  emotion,  and  that  is  fear. 

The  traveller  now  follows  his  guide  back  over  the 
rugged  path  which  he  came,  and  by  the  time  he  gets 
out  of  the  curtained  alley,  which  be  had  been  passing 
through,  his  clothes  will  be  thoroughly  steeped  by  the 
mist  and  clouds  of  spray  which  sometimes  enveloped 
him  on  his  journey.  On  arriving  again  at  the  little 
building  from  which  he  started,  his  kind  guide  demands 
only  the  small  sum  of  25  cents  for  his  services  and  the 
use  of  the  suit  of  clothes  worn  on  the  journey*  The 
traveller  has  now  a  long  staircase  to  ascend,  which  is 
attended  M'ith  some  fatigue,  which  places  him  again  on 
the  Canadian  bank,  where  he  can  again  visit  the  Table 
Rock,  upon  which  Mr.  Robinson,  the  proprietor  of  the 
Chinese  Pagoda  and  Chimera  Obscura  on  the  American 
shore,  is  building  a  splendid  establishment,  and  also  an 
Observatory,  from  which  can  be  had  the  best  views  on 
either  shore,  for  which  he  will  be  indebted  to  Mr.  Rob* 
inson ;  let  him  view  the  falls  on  the  American  or  Ca* 
iradian  shores  or  both.  The  falls,  with  one  mile  of  the 
rapids  above,  is  224  feet  in  perpendicular  height ;  the 
main  fall  being  1^7  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  and 
the  one  mile  of  rapids  above  a  fall  of  57  feet,  which 
together  make  224-  feet. 

That  the  Falls  of  Niagrara  were  at  one  time  lowev 


« 


^  .1 


m 


h 


I 


ni:t'i:^?iioN  or  hie  palls. 


171 


apor, 
y  the 
p  be- 
eil  of 
lis  sit- 
e  only 


clown  the  river  than  thoy  are  at  present,  is  a  fact  that 
can  be  proven  by  reason  and  observation.  The  quan- 
tity of  water  that  falls  over  this  precicipicc,  is  estima- 
ted at  120,000,000  tons  an  hour;  which  would  make 
the  enormous  quantity  of  30,24<0^g00,000  gallons  of 
water,  which  passes  over  this  awful  precipice  in  the 
short  space  of  one  hour.  The  rapidity  with  which  the 
continual  attrition  of  so  large  a  body  of  water  wears  a- 
Way  the  hardest  rocks,  is  known  to  every  one,  and  has 
been  exemplified  in  the  changes  which  Niagara  Falls 
have  undergone,  both  in  form  and  position  during  the 
short  time  they  have  been  under  the  observation  of  civ- 
ilized beings.  Most  of  the  oldest  inhabitants  agree  in 
their  statements  respecting  the  alteration  which  has  ta- 
ken place  in  the  shape  of  the  Great  or  Horse-Shoe  cat- 
aract, within  their  recollection. 

The  most  ordinary  man,  with  a  cursory  glance  at 
what  is  now  taking  place  at  the  falls,  would  have  not 
a  doubt  on  his  mind,  that  the  great  cause  of  the  com- 
paratively quick  retrogade  movement  of  the  tails,  is 
the  loose  and  soft  material  on  which  the  limestone  rock 
rests,  and  the  destructive  action  of  the  water  upon  it. 
The  t^ater  also  penetrating  the  crevices  between  the 
strata  of  solid  limestone,  detaches  them  from  each  oth- 
er and  dispose?  them  to  fall.  At  present  the  limestone 
rock  projects  considerably  over  the  shale  at  the  falls^ 
and  it  is  this  projection  which  makes  it  practicable  to 
pass  between  the  dazzling  curtain  of  water  and  ihfi 
rock,  nearly  half  way  under  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall.- 


\V2 


RECKShlON  or  THE  TALL.?. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 


k' 


iletnarks  on  the  Reccwion  of  the  Falls — Goat  Island — Old  du- 
sorted  channel — Devil's  Hole — Bloody  Run — Excavation — 
Plains  of  Clilppewa — Hi&turical  Sketch — Burning  Spring — 
Village  of  Niagara — Departure — Suspension  Bridge — Whirl- 
pool Rapids — Roman's  Run — Awful  Scene — Lewriston— Indi- 
ans— Queenstown  Heights — Brock's  Monument — Prospect — 
Welland  Canal — Lake  Ontario — Refraction  or  IWfirage — ^To- 
ronto — |Iigh  Ridgo — ^Military  Importance  of  Toronto — Beau- 
ties of  Lake  Ontario — Ducks  and  Loons — Oswego — Manufoo- 
tures — Steamer  British  Empire — Sackett's  Harbour. 

It  has  long  been  the  popular  belief  from  a  mere  cur- 
sory inspection  of  the  district,  that  the  Niagara  once 
flowed  in  a  shallow  valley  across  the  whole  platform, 
from  the  present  site  of  the  Falls  to  the  Queenstown 
Heights,  where  it  is  supposed  the  cataract  was  first  sit- 
uated 3  and  that  the  river  has  been  slowly  eating  its 
way  backwards  through  the  rocks  for  a  distance  of  7 
miles.  According  to  this  hypothesis,  the  falls  must 
have  had  originally  nearly  twice  their  present  height, 
and  must  have  been  always  diminishing  in  grandeur 
from  age  to  age,  as  they  will  continue  to  do  in  future, 
so  long  as  the  retrogade  movement  is  prolonged.  It  be- 
comes therefore,  a  matter  of  no  small  curiosity  and  in- 
terest, to  inquire  at  what  rate  the  work  of  excavation 
is  now  going  on ;  and  thus  to  obtain  a  measure  for  cal- 
culating how  many  thousands  of  years  or  centuries  have 

been  required  to  hollow  out  the  mighty  chasm  already 
excavated. 

It  is  an  ascertained  fact  as  before  stated  that  the  falls 


r 


m 


rajci:>ftioN  or  riiii  tall*. 


173 


f 


do  not  remain  absolutely  stationary  at  the  same  point 
of  space,  and  that  they  have  shifted  their  position  slight- 
ly during  the  last  half  century.     Every  observer  will 
also  be  convinced  that  the  small  portion   of  the  great 
ravine,  -vVhich  has  been  eroded  within  the  memory  of 
man,  is  so  precisely    identical   in    character    with  the 
whole  gorge  for  seven  miles  below,  that  the  river  sup- 
plies an  adecjuate  caUse  (ot  executing  the  task  assigned 
(o  it,  provided  we  grant  sufficient  time  for  its  cornple- 
tioni     The  top  of  the  precipice  over  which  the  water 
falls  being  a  mass  of  limestone,  about  90  feet  thick,  be- 
neath which  lie  shales  of  eqtial  thickness,  as  the  water 
at  the  fcfot  of  the  falls  is  said  to  be  very  deep.     Those 
ihales^  owing  io  their  softness,  are   continually  under- 
mining by  the  action  of  the  spray,  driven  violently  by 
guils  of  wind  against  the    base  of  the  precipice.     Irt 
consequence  of  this  dirfnte'gfation,  portions   of  the  in- 
cumbent rock  are  left  unsupported  and   tumble  dowrt 
from  time  to  time,  so  that  the  catafact  is  made  to  re" 
cede  southwards.     So  that  I  think  I  am  sate  in  advan-' 
cing,  tjhat  in  the  course  of  a  few  centuries^,  Goat  Island 
which  now  separates  the  falls,  by  the  wearing  aWay  of 
f;t^e  rocjts,  will  be  isolated  in  the  midst  of  the  fallen 
^qqdf  ,?s  a  goIq^sjiI  pillar,  carved  by  the  resistless  hand 
pf  nature,*  ^nd  a  s^lei>did  ?ind  astonishing  monument, 
from  which  posterity  by  tj[iFn|ng  to  the  records  of  the 
pre^enjt  (J^y,  njay   iearn    wliat    j}rp»fes;*  the   cataracts 
have  made  toward  lake  F^rle  within  9.  jC^rtain  period  of 
t^me.     The  Island  has  lost  several  acres  In  ai;ea  ^i7t}li^ 
^he  last  ten  years.     I   h»ve  no  doubt  that   this   w^s^i^ 
neither  J9  i)or  bas  been  a   mere  temporary   accident. 


174 


iNDicATioxi  or  Ri:or:j*.sio^. 


Bince  I  found  that  the  same  recession  was  in  progress 
In  various  other  waterfalls  which  I  visited. 

I  also  found  an  old  river  bed,  running  through  the 
drift  parallel  to  the  Niagara,  its  course  still  marked  by 
swamps  and  ponds,  such  as  we  find  in  all  alluvial  plains, 
and  only  remarkable  here  because  the  waters  of  Niag- 
ara river  never  run  at  a  lower  level  by  300  feet.  This 
deserted  old  channel  occurs  between  the  Muddy  river, 
and  the  Whirlpool  rapids  a  distance  of  4  miles  below 
the  £ills,  which  in  this  case  deserves  notice.  It  is  100 
yards  wide,  near  which  I  discovered  with  no  small  de- 
light, at  the  summer-house  above  the  Whirlpool,  a  bed 
of  stratified  sand  and  gravel,  containing  fluviatile  shells 
in  abundance.  Fortunately,  a  few  yards  from  the  sum- 
mer-house a  pit  has  been  recently  dug  for  a  cellar  of  a 
new  house,  to  the  depth  of  nine  feet  in  the  shelly  sand, 
in  which  I  found  shells  identical  in  species  with  those 
which  occur  in  a  fresh  state  in  the  bed  of  the  Niagara, 
near  the  ferry. 

There  is  also  a  notch  or  indentation  ealled  the  Devil's 
Hole,  on  the  right  or  American  side  of  the  Niagara, 
half  a  mile  below  the  whirlpjol,  which  deserves  no- 
tice, for  I  think  there  are  signs  of  the  great  cataract 
having  been  once  situated  here.  A  small  streamlet 
called  the  Bloody  Run,  from  a  battle  fought  here  with 
the  Indians,  joins  the  Niagara  at  this  place,  and  has 
hollowed  out  a  lateral  chasm.  Ascending  the  great 
ravine,  we  here  see  facing  us,  a  projecting  cliff  of  lime- 
atone,  which  stands  out  forty  (cet  beyond  the  general 
range  of  the  river  cliff  below,  and  has  its  flat  summit 
bar»?  and  withort  fioil,  just  as  if  it  had  once  formed  the 


I 


^ 


n.ATNs  or  cHirrRWA- 


\n 


^aslern  side  of  the  great  fall. 

The  old  deserted  channel  above  named,  and  the  patch- 
es of  fluviatile  strata  occurring  between  the  old  banks 
of  drift  and  the  precipice,  and  not  having  been  met 
with  on  other  parts  of  the  platform  at  a  distance  from 
the  Niagara,  this  of  itself,  I  think,  would  confirm  the 
theory  previously  adopted  on  independent  evidence, 
of  the  recession  of  the  mighty  catar«\pt  from  Queens- 
town  southward.  The  narrowness  of  the  gorge  near 
Queenstown,  where  it  is  just  large  enough  to  contain 
the  rapid  current  of  water,  accords  well  witti  tfie  same 
hypothesis  5  and  there  is  no  ground  for  suspecting  that 
the  excavation  was  assisted  by  an  original  rent  in  the 
rocks  caused  by  some  convulsion  of  nature,  because 
there  iz  no  fissure  at  present  in  the  limestone  at  the 
falls,  where  the  moving  waters  alone  have  the  power 
to  cut  their  way  backwards  toward  lake  Erie. 

Thus  I  leave  the  mighty  cataract,  and  the  river  Ni- 
agara, so  far  as  it  was  noticed  in  connection  with  the 
recession  of  the  falls  from  Lake  Ontario  backwards  to- 
ward Lake  Erie,  which  I  considered  so  plain  that  I 
could  not  help  making  a  note  of  it.  The  notes  on  the 
river  Niagara,  below  the  falls,  were  of  cours?  taken  af- 
ter I  left  the  falls  for  lake  Ontario  ;  but  they  were  bro't 
forward  for  the  purpose  of  having  the  notes  concern- 
ing the  falls  all  in  succession. 

From  the  Table-Rock  on  the  Canadian  side  of  th^ 
Niagara,  I  passed  up  the  right  bank  of  the  river  sever- 
al miles,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  Chippewa,  cele- 
brated for  the  great  battle  of  July,  1814,  between  the 
Americans,  commanded  by  Gens,  Brown  and  Scott, 


176 


rLAh%>  OF  VXilVTEWA, 


and  the  British  under  Gens,  I>rumniond  and  Riall.-— » 
In  this  great  battle,  it  is  said  the  towering  plume  in  the 
cap  of  the  gallant  Scott,  was  the  rallying  point  for  the 
American  soldiers*  On  this  iaraous  battle-field  I  was 
reminded  of  one  of  the  charges  made  upon  the  enemy 
by  the  heroic  Scott ;  who  on  hearing  the  Bfitish  saying 
they  are  good  at  long  shot,  but  cannot  stand  cold  steely 
called  immediafely  on  his  soldiers  to  give  the  lie  to 
that  slander,  and  the  command  "charge  !"  was  given. 
The  charge  thus  ordered  is  said  to  have  decided  the 
day.  There  is  here  a  town,  which  is  beautifully  situ- 
ated at  the  junction  of  Chippewa  river  with  the  Niag- 
ara. It  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  has 
considerable  trade,  as  the  river  Niagara  is  navigable 
Irom  lake  Erie,  as  far  down  as  this  place,  which  how- 
ever, 13  attended  with  some  danger,  owing  to  the  in- 
creasing rapidity  of  the  current,  caused  by  the  great 
rapids  and  mighty  cataraqt  a  few  miles  below. 

On  my  return  from  Chippewa  to  the  Falls,  I  called 
at  the  burning  Spring.  This  is  situated  at  the  edge  of 
the  Niagara,  just  above  the  rapids,  where  carburettea 
hydrogon,  or  in  the  modern  chemical  phraseology,  a 
light  hydro-carbon  rises  from  beneath  the  water,  out  oi 
a  limestone  rock.  The  bituminous  matter  supplying 
this  gas,  is  supposed  to  be  of  animal  origin.  The  visi- 
ble gas  makes  its  vyay  in  countless  bubbles  through  the 
clear,  transparent  waters  of  the  Niagara.  On  applica- 
tion of  a  lighted  candle  it  takes  fire,  and  plays  about 
with  a  lambent,  flickering  ffame,  which  seldom  touches 
the  water,  the  gas  being  at  first  too  pure  to  be  inflam'»' 
I3!)able,  and  only  obtaining  sufficient  oxygen,  after  mia- 


ch 


■'  * 


WIRK  SUSPlilXslON  BRlDCi:. 


177 


I 


gling  with  the  atmosphere,  at  the  height  ol  several  in- 
ches above  the  surface  of  the  stream. 

I  now  returned  to  the  village  of  Niagara,  on  the  A- 
nierican  side.  This  ia  beautifully  situated  near  the 
falls,  an4  contains  a  population  of  1277.  The  tow^nia 
well  laid  out,  and  contains  some  large  and  well  con- 
ducted hotels,  some  fine  residences  and  churches.  A 
portion  of  the  inhabitants  can  view  at  their  leisure  part 
of  the  falls  from  their  respective  residences,  while  the 
whole  town  is  filled  with  the  noise  of  the  mighty  wa- 
ters, whose  thunders  are  said  to  fill  an  area  of  seven 
hundred  square  miles. 

On  my  way  to  Lewiston,  I  passed  the  great  Suspen- 
sion Bridge  over  the  Niagara,  about  one  and  a  half  miles 
below  the  falls.  This  famous  bridge  was  just  building, 
and  looked  like  a  work  of  peril.  There  were  here  a 
number  of  workmen  employed,  some  working  in  wood, 
some  with  iron,  while  others  were  platting  the  long 
wire  cables,  which  were  in  part  to  iorm  the  might}'- 
bridge.  This  celebrated  work  was  under  the  direction 
of  a  Mr.  Ellet,  a  noted  workman.  On  both  of  the  aw- 
tul  precipices  is  a  strong,  high  and  powerful  frame, 
whidh  i^  firmly  p>Ianted  in  the  solid  rock  of  which  the 
p|-ecipices  are  composed.  These  two  frames  lare  800 
feet  apart,  which  is  the  length  of  the  bridge.  Across  this 
mighty  gulf  were  suspended  only  four  of  the  wire  cab- 
bies, which  are  to  bear  up  this  great,  bridge;  the  first  of 
which  was  drawn  over  the  gulf  by  means  ol  a  great 
rope,  which  was  also  drawn  over  by  a  smaller  cord, 
which  last  was  carried  across  the  river  by  means  of  a 

kite.     Afler  one  of  these  great  cajjles  w^  secyred  t^ 
8* 


'      1 ! 

-I 


178 


VvniE  »i'si»nN.-i()N*  hii\\ni\L. 


its  place,  the  others  were  easily  drawn  over  by  means 
of  a  pully.  These  cables  hang  in  the  air  at  the  height 
of  230  feet,  over  a  vast  body  of  Water,  rushing  through 
a  narrow  gorge  at  the  rate  of  30  miles  an  hour.  These 
four  great  wire  cables  had  more  the  appearance  of  that 
much  cobweb  suspended  over  a  great  space,  than  that 
much  toward  a  ^jreat  bridcre. 

On  two  of  these  cables  was  suspended  a  little  car, 
capable  of  holding  two  persons.  This  was  so  construct- 
ed as  to  roll  on  the  cables  by  means  of  pullies ;  which 
little  car  was  drawn  from  precipice  to  precipice  with 
two  persons  snugly  seated  in  it,  and  passed  on  this  frail 
gossamer-looking  structure,  in  perfect  safety,  with  the 
roaring,  rushing,  boiling  Niagara,  230  feet  beneath 
them,  while  their  heads  grew  dizzy  on  looking  down 
into  the  fearful  chasm,  where  rolled  the  milky  Niaga- 
ra in  awful  grandeur.  The  bridge  when  completed, 
will  be,  perhaps  the  most  sublime  work  of  art  on  the 
continent,  although  it  is  not  probable  that  one  person 
in  twenty,  w^ill  have  the  nerve  to  cross  it. 

The  Whirlpool  Rapids  are  situated  below  the  bridge. 
The  river  at  this  place  makes  a  turn  at  an  angle  of  a- 
bout  ninety  degrees  on  the  American  bank,  and  on  the 
Canadian  bank  there  is  a  very  considerable  curve,  giv- 
ing the  Niagara  here  a  singular  shape.  The  whirlpool 
is  in  the  curve,  and  principally  on  the  Canadian  side. 
The  whole  of  this  scene  presents  an  awful  appearance. 
In  a  southwestern  direction  are  seen  two  streamlets  ap- 
proaching the  whirlpool,  which  are  thrown  in  cascades 
over  the  limestone  precipice,  afler  cutting  through  su- 
perficial red  drifl,  about  35  feet  thick.     On  the  west 


VPllIULrOOI.  RAriDS— LEW)SToy. 


179 


M. 


♦^'f  the  curve  is  a  very  considerable  stream,  thrown  in  a 
like  cascade  over  the  precipice.  This  stream  is  Bo- 
man's  Run.  On  the  north  is  a  great  gully,  between 
which  and  Boman's  Run,  the  cliffs  consist  of  drift.  In 
Ihe  ansle  on  the  American  side,  is  situated  the  summer 
house,  where  sand  and  fresh  water  shells  rest  on  the 
top  of  the  precipice,  which  was  named  in  the  notes  of 
the  falls.  About  half  a  ciile  below  this  place,  is  the 
notch  or  iiidentaticjn  called  the  Devil's  Hole,  which  is 
also  a  considerable  curiosity.  This  place  was  also  no- 
ticed in  connection  with  the  falls.  The  whirlpool,  I 
repeat,  present?  a  grand  a»  j.  awful  appearaace  ;  while 
itanding  on  the  toweri"";  precipice  which  surrounds  it, 
and  see  how  completely  the  current  is  carried  round 
in  the  drcular  whirlings,  that  water  assumes  in  any 
vortex,  having  a  large  outlet  bit  its  base,  that  trees, 
beams  and  branches  of  wood  are  carried  round  and  round 
for  hours  in  succession  in  its  centre,  sometimes  descend- 
ing out  of  sight  and  reappearing  again  near  the  same 
place,  broken  into  fragments.  It  can  with  propriety 
be  called  a  second  maelstrom,  although  on  a  smaller 
•cale  than  the  celebrated  maelstrom  of  Norway,  judg- 
ing from  the  accounts  given  of  the  latter.  The  great 
suspension  bridge  will  afford  an  excellent  view  of  tiiis 
grand  scene. 

The  town  ot  Lewiston,  with  a  population  of  2540, 
is  b'^autifully  situated  on  high  and  commanding  ground, 
on  the  American  bank  of  the  Niagara  river.  This  town 
possesses  a  delightful  view  of  the  surrounding  country, 
embracing  Queenstown  Heights,  on  the  Canadian  shore. 
The  town  of  Lewiston  is  well   situated   to   carry  oa 


ISO 


QUEENSTOWN  HEICMt^r 


trade,  as  the  Niagara  is  navigable  from  its  mouth  up  (q 
this  place  for  steamers.  It  is  also  connected  with  Lock- 
port  and  the  city  of  Buffalo  by  railroad.  There  is  a 
settlement  of  Tuscarora  Indians  at  this  place,  who  are 
an  energetic  people,  possessing  some  ingenuity  j  the 
women  in  particular,  who  manufacture  some  fancy  a^*- 
ticles  ;  and  those  containing  needle  work  are  wrought 
in  a  very  superior  style.  These  squaws  can  be  seen 
in  the  neighboring  towns,  some  of  whom  I  saw  as  far 
up  the  river  as  the  city  of  Buffalo,  where  they  were 
selling  baskets,  trinkets  and  fancy  articles  of  various 
styles.  The  whole  of  these  Indians  can  speak  sufficient 
English  to  be  understood.  They  are  intelligent,  and 
appear  as  friendly  to  the  stranger  as  the  white  inhabi- 
tants. The  prevailing  vice  with  these  Indians,  and 
particularly  with  the  men,  is  drunkenness ;  their  chief 
motto  appears  to  be  whiskey,  whiskey. 

At  this  to\\n  I  took  a  ferry-boat,  and  again  crossed 
the  river  for  the  Niagara  district  in  Canada,  where  I 
visited  Queenstovi  Heights,  which  is  celebrated  for 
,the  desperate  battle  and  capture  of  the  Americans,  on 
the  1 3th  of  October,  1812,  and  for  the  deaJJj  pf  the 
British  General  Sir  Isaac  Brock.  The  spot  on  which 
he  fell  is  marked  by  a  monument,  erected  to  his  mem- 
ory. It  is  126  feet  high,  and  stands  270  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  Niagara  stream,  which  runs  just  below 
it:  so  that  it  commands  a  noble  vievv'.  To  the  lefl  a 
prodigious  sweep  of  forest  terminates  in  blue  Canadian 
,hills  ;  on  the  right  is  the  American  shore.  There  stands 
the  village  of  Levviston,  with  its  winding  descent  to 
the  ferry,  while  at  our  feet  lay  Queenstown,  its  sordid- 


|»  R  Q  SJ»  E  C  T 


181 


J|l^ss  being  lost  in  distance,  and  its  long  streets  present- 
ing a  beautiful  appearance.  The  mighty  Niagara, 
whose  angry  surges  are  rushing  between  its  lofty  banks, 
beautifully  adorned  with  trees,  which  awful  chasm  sud- 
denly widens  at  Queenstown,  causing  the  waters  to 
spread  and  relax  their  speed,  while  making  their  way 
with  three  or  four  bends  to  the  lake  :  while  in  the  dis- 

tance  the  traveller  beholds  the  wliite  church  'of  Niag- 

,..■'-'.■  '■.•■•* 

jgira  village,  rising  above  the  woods  some  miles  off,  and 

beyond  the  vast  lake,  its  waters  grey  on  the  horizon. 
There  was  truly  life  in  this  magnificent  scene.  The 
ferry-boat  was  buffeted  by  the  waves,  and  groups  of 
persons  were  in  waiting  on  either  side  the  ferry.  While 
looking  over  the  surrounding  country,  teams  could  be 
^  en  in  the  fields  at  their  labor,  and  persons  at  their  re- 
spective  occupations.  Immediately  after  passing  the 
elevated  plateau  of  Queenstown  Heights,  the  land 
shelves  abruptly  toward  the  shores  of  Lake  Ontario, 
distant  five  or  six  miles,  in  a  manner  which  must  at 
once  arrest  the  attention  of  the  geologist.  The  table- 
land,  300  feet  high,  is  broken  by  a  precipice  parallel 
to  the  lake.  There  is  little  doubt  that  this  was  once 
the  boundary  of  its  southern  shore. 

The  Welland  canal,  42  miles  long,  connects  the  two 
Jakes,  so  there  is  an  uninterrupted  navigation  between 
lakes  Erie  and  Ontario.  This  great  canal  is  situated 
considerably  west  of  Queenstown  Heights,  and  so  la-rge 
that  vessels  can  pass  and  repass  from  lake  to  lake,  not- 
withstanding the  great  obstacle  placed  by  nature  be- 
tween the  two  Lakes,  viz  :  the  cataract.  The  district 
through  which  this  canal  passes,  contains  many  fertile 


|8i> 


TORONTO, 


and  highly  cultivated  farms ;  the  mode  of  agriculture 
being  similar  to  that  of  the  State  of  New  York. 

At  the  town  of  Lewiston,  I  left  the  State  of  New 
York,  by  sailing  on  board  the  steamer  St.  Lawrence,  a- 
cruss  lake  Ontario  to  the  city  of  Toronto,  in  the  Home 
district,  in  Upper  Canada.  Not  long  after  we  had  pas- 
sed the  American  fort  Niagara,  at  the  mouth  of  the  riv- 
er, we  were  in  the  very  bosom  of  lake  Ontario,  and  af- 
ter sailing  for  some  time  I  was  surprised  at  seeing  the 
city  of  Toronto  in  the  horizon,  and  the  low  wooded 
plain  on  which  the  town  is  built.  By  the  effect  of  re- 
fraction or  mirage  so  common  on  this  lake^  the  houses 
and  trees  appeared  drawn  up  and  lengthened  vertical- 
ly, so  that  I  should  have  guessed  them  to  be  from  300 
to  400  feet  high,  while  the  gently  rising  ground  behind 
the  town  had  the  appearance  of  distant  mountains.  In 
the  ordinary  state  of  the  atmosphere,  none  of  this  land, 
much  less  the  city  would  be  visible  at  this  distance,  e- 
ven  in  the  clearest  weather. 

After  arriving  at  the  city  and  traversing  its  streets,  I 
found  it  to  be  pleasantly  and  beautifully  situated,  and 
learned  that  it  contained  abouc  21000  inhabitants.- 
The  town  is  regularly  laid  out  and  contains  a  number 
of  fine  buildings.  This  place  was  formerly  the  seat  of 
the  provincial  government,  being  transferred  to  this 
place  from  Kingston  ;  but  since  the  union  of  Upper 
and  Lower  Canada,  it  has  been  removed  to  the  city  of 
Montreal. 

Toronto  is  located  on  a  bay  of  the  same  name.  The 
plain  in  which  the  city  stands,  has  a  gentle  and  to  the 
eye,  imperceptible  slope  upwards  from  the  lake,  and  is 


ULALTIKS  OF  I.AKK   ONTARIO. 


183 


isUll  covered  for  the  most  part  with  adense  fofest,  which 
is  however  beginning  to  give  way  before  the  axe  of 
the  new  settler.  In  the  direction  due  northward,  there 
seems  to  be  a  perfectly  level  plain  for  a  mile,  when 
you  corrc  to  a  ridge,  the  base  of  which  I  was  informed 
was  108  feel  above  lake  Ont^irio.  This  ridge  rises  ab- 
ruptly with  a  steep  slope  towards  the  lake,  and  is  about 
30  feet  high.  Its  base  consists  of  clay,  and  its  summit 
is  sand,  which  is  covered  with  pines% 

This  city  when  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada,  better 
known  by  the  name  of  York,  was  the  great  depository 
of  British  military  stores,  whence  the  western  ports 
were  supplied.  This  famous  capitol  was  captured  by 
the  Americans  under  Gen.  Dearborn,  on  the  27th  of 
April,  1813,  with  all  its  stores. 

I  again  took  passage  on  board  the  same  steamer,  and 
sailed  down  and  across  the  lake  to  the  city  of  Oswego, 
in  the  State  of  New  York,  a  distance  of  170  miles. — 
The  weather  was  cold  and  disagreeable  on  the  Lake. 
The  beauties  of  this  splendid  lake,  caused  us  frequently 
to  leave  the  stove  in  the  cabin  ^nd  stand  on  deck,  view- 
ing th?;  delightful  waves,  till  we  were  compelled  by 
the  efTects  of  cold  again  to  retire  to  the  cabin.  The 
beautiful  waters  of  this  Lake  appear  to  change  their 
hues  almost  every  moment ;  the  shades  of  purple  and 
green  fieeting  over  it,  now  dark,  now  lustrous,  now 
pale  like  a  dolphin  dying  or  to  use  a  more  exact  com- 
parison dappled,  and  varying  like  the  back  of  a  mack- 
erel, with  every  now  and  then  a  streak  of  silver  light 
dividing  the  shades  of  green.  Magnificent,  tumultu- 
ous clouds  came  rolling  round  the  horizon,  and  the  lit- 


iSl 


OSWEGO. 


tie  graceful  schooners  falling  into  every  beautiful  atti- 
tude, and  catching  every  variety  of  light  and  shade, 
would  pass  by  our  steamer  and  courtesying  as  it  were, 
as  they  passed,  while  hundreds  of  wild  ducks  and  great 
black  loons  could  be  seen  skimming  and  diving,  and 
sporting  over  the  bosom  of  the  lake,  which  of  course 
would  raise  a  terrible  squall  when  compelled  to  leave 
by  flight. — And  in  the  vicinity  of  the  shores,  numerous 
little  birds  in  gorgeous  plumage  of  crimson  and  black, 
were  fluttering  about  the  jbanks  and  above  the  surface  of 
the  lake.  There  appeared  to  be  life,  and  light,  and  beau- 
ty in  every  thing  the  stranger  beheld,  in  this  northern 
region,  after  being  released  from  the  prison  in  which  he 
was  locked  up  by  the  chilling  blasts  of  this  cold  region. 
The  city  of  Oswego  contains  a  population  of  4665.  It 
is,beautifully  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Oswego  river 
with  the  lake,  and  is  a  place  of  very  considerable  trade. 
A  vast  quantity  of  wheat  is  brought  down  the  lakes  and 
ground  at  this  place,  as  there  is  here  a  number  of  large 
flouring  mills.  The  Oswego  river  furnishes  ah  inexhaus- 
tible  water-power,  which  is  very  extensively  used  for 
the  above  purposes,  as  well  as  for  propelling  factories  of 
other  kinds.  There  is  here  an  excellent  harbour,  protec- 
ted by  piers  constructed  by  the  United  States  govern- 
ment. I  remained  part  of  a  day  at  this  city  waiting  the 
arrival  of  the  British  Empire,  one  of  the  British  line 
steamers  from  Montreal.  This  beautiful  steamer  8aile4 
first  into  Sacket^s  Harbour,  at  the  eastern  end  of  lake 
Ontario.  This  deep,  safe  and  splendid  harbour  belongs 
the  State  of  New  York,  is  noted  as  an  important  naval 
station  and  is  strongly  fortified  by  the  United  States, 


KINGSTON 


K^r> 


CHAPTER    XV. 


UPPBR  CANADA. 

Departure  for  Canada— Kingston — Rideau  and  Grenville  Canal 
— Wolf  and  Long  Islands — Point  Henry — Harbour — Naval 
Depot — Plateau — Magnificent  view — Bridge — Street* — For- 
tifications — Public  Buildings — Granite  region — Lake  Catara- 
qui  or  Thousand  Isles — Picturesque  Scenery — Fright  of  the 
Passengers — Rivar  St.  Lawrence — Johnstown  District-Brock- 
ville — Ogden^burg — Ruins  of  Prescott — Late  Canadian  Re- 
volt— New  York  Sympathisers — Wind-Mill — Fiastern  District 
— Cities  and  Towns — Cornwall — Complainta  against  the  New 
York  Sympathisers — Lake  St.  Francis — Coteau  Du  Lac — 
Cascade  Rapids — Scenery — River  St.  Lawrei —w — Lake  St, 
Louis. 

At  Sacket's  Harbour,  I  again  left  the  State  of  New 
York  for  Canada,  and  the  steamer  touched  the  State  on» 
]y  at  Ogdensburg  ;  at  which  place  I  did  not  land.  On 
leaving  Sacket's  Harbour  we  sailed  direct  for  the  city 
of  Kingston,  on  the  northern  shore  of  lake  Ontario,  in 
the  Midland  district.  The  city  of  Kingston  is  situated 
near  where  the  St.  Lawrence  opens  into  the  great  lake, 
and  is  the  most  important  entrepot  between  western 
Canada  and  the  great  ports  of  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

Kingston  is  well  situated,  and  has  great  trade,  is  260 
miles  from  the  city  of  Montreal,  by  the  celebrated  Ri- 
deau and  Grenville  canal,  which  commences  at  this 
place,  and  unites  the  Ottowa  river  with  Lake  Ontario. 
This  is  a  ship  canal,  of  135  miles  jn  length.  Opposite 
the  city  the  river  or  lake  is  divided  into  two  channels, 
by  Wolfe  and  Long  Islands^  the  centre  of  which  forms 
an  elevated  ridge,  covered  by  a  magnificent  fprest,— 


■'>. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


Ul    125 


^   1^    120 

illM 

114    IIIIII.6 


<^. 


Va 


% 


A 


y 


/A 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4S03 


186 


KINGSTON. 


The  town  is  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  a  short  es- 
tuary, into  which  the  Rideau  canal  communicates. — 
Point  Henry,  a  promontory  rising  100  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  lake,  and  crowned  with  strong  fortifica- 
tions, commanding  a  narrow  channel  of  the  river,  is  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  estuary. 

On  approaching  the  city  from  the  lake,  a  dangerous 
shoal  renders  it  necessary  to  make  a  considerable  sweep, 
before  entering  the  well  sheltered  harbour,  in  the  course 
of  which  the  town,  with  the  public  storehouses  built 
of  white  stone,  the  barracks,  and  other  public  buildings, 
become  visible,  and  the  naval  bay,  the  depot  of  the  na- 
val force  on  the  lakes  is  passed.  The  houses  extend 
above  a  mile  and  a  half  along  the  shores  of  the  lake, 
which  form  a  gentle  acclivity,  the  summit  of  which 
consists  of  a  plateau  of  limestone  rock,  from  which  there 
is  a  magnificent  view,  embracing  the  lake,  the  river, 
the  islands  and  forests.  A  ,wooden  bridge,  built  in  fif- 
teen feet  water,  and  600  yards  long,  is  thrown  across 
the  estuary.  Vessels  drawing  fifteen  feet  water  come 
close  to  the  wharves,  and  Kingston  is  a  principal  ren- 
dezvous of  the  large  steamers  which  navigate  lake  On- 
tario. The  principal  streets  are  sixty-six  feet  wide, 
run  from  north  to  south  and  from  east  to  west,  and  are 
soon  dry  after  the  heaviest  rains,  in  consequence  of 
the  favorable  nature  of  the  site.  The  fortifications  have 
been  excavated  from  the  granite  and  limestone  rock.  A- 
mong  the  most  important  public  buildings  aie  the  late 
provincial  capitol,  the  provincial  penitentiary,  and  a 
large  and  splendid  public  hospital.  Kingston  contains 
a  population  of  about  9,000.     The  country  around  tjio 


CATAUAQl'I  LAKE — BROCKVlLLi:. 


18' 


eg- 


town  must  always  be  comparatively  barren,  as  much 
of  thii  soil  consists  of  granite  and  orranite  detritus  :  and 
I  predict  that  it  never  will  become  a  great  metropolis, 
such  as  the  city  of  Toronto  might  be  made,  or  such  as 
many  of  the  cities  in  the  United  States,  which  I  had 
passed  through. 

On  sailing  from  Kingston  for  the  river  St.  Lawrence, 
after  passing  Wolfe  and  Long  Islands,  we  entered  that 
part  of  lake  Cataraqui,  sometimes  known  as  the  lake  of 
the  Thousand  Islets.  This  lake  is  studded  with  1692 
islets,  which  are  chiefly  small,  and  present  a  very 
splendid  appearance  in  the  bosom  of  this  delightful 
lake  J  the  whole  of  which  present  a  scene  picturesque 
and  beautiful.  In  passing  between  two  of  these  islands, 
the  steamer  struck,  which  caused  some  alarm  among 
the  ladies :  the  jar  however  was  not  a  very  hard  one, 
and  on  examination  the  boat  was  found  not  to  be  inju- 
red, as  it  was  found  to  be  a  log  over  which  the  boat 
had  passed,  which  fortunately  only  jarred  it  enough  to 
upset  the  chairs,  and  throw  several  persons  off  their 
feet  who  were  standing  at  the  time. 

After  passing  those  beautiful  green  islands,  and  sail- 
ing down  the  majestic  river  St.  Lawrence  for  several 
hours,  we  landed  at  Brockville,  in  the  Johnstown  dis- 
trict. The  town  is  well  laid  out,  contains  fine  dwel- 
lings, and  several  elegant  churches.  The  country  in 
rear  of  tlje  town  is  rocky  ;  the  farms  are  small  and  high- 
ly cuhivated  ;  the  land  is  very  fertile  in  this  district ; 
wheat  is  produced  of  a  very  good  quality,  though  not 
so  good,  and  to  so  great  an  extent  as  in  the  districts 
westward.     The  town  of  Brockville  is  advantageously 


1'  \ 

t 


1S8 


i^iiNs  or  rnKhOott. 


!' 


I  i 


V 


situated  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  carries  on  some  hu* 
ness  in  the  commercial  line; 

On  sailing  down  the  St.  Lawrence  from  this  place,  I 
found  the  scenery  fine  on  both  shores  of  the  river,  till 
our  boat  run  into  the  harbouf  of  Ogdensburg;)  in  the 
State  of  New  York,  which  is  situated  at  the  junction 
of  Oswegatchie  river  itith  the  St^  Latvfenee.  This 
city  contains  a  population  of  2526,  and  has  very  con-* 
siderable  trade,  which  passes  down  lake  Ontario,  the 
river  St.  Lawrence,  and  from  the  western  ^ate9tothi» 
place.  In  addition  to  this,  there  is  a  communication 
far  into  the  fertile  country,  by  the  Oswegatchie  rirer^ 
which  is  the  outlet  ot  Black  Lake.  This  city  is  famous 
as  being  the  place  from  which  the  sympathisers  of  New 
York  sallied  forth,  and  embarked  for  Prescott,  just  on 
the  opposite  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  cjluring  tjhe  trou- 
bles and  revolt  in  Canada,  a  few  years  ago,  whose  sad 
fate  is  well  known. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence  stands  the 
town  of  Prescott,  in  ruins,  except  the  gpeat  windrmfU 
which  stands  close  by,  which  was  not  destroyed.  This 
place  is  celebi'a^ed  for  the  capture  of  the  New  York 
(Bympathisers  and  Canadian  pevoltars,  during  those  trour 
bles.  After  they  were  defeated  by  the  British  troops, 
they  took  shelter  in  this  town,  where  it  appears  they 
were  beseiged  and  captured.  Many  of  the  houses  were 
stone,  in  the  walls  of  which  can  be  seen  a  number  of 
boles  produced  by  the  cannon  shot  from  the  roya} 
troops,  The  walls  of  the  great  windrmill,  however, 
could  not  be  broken.  The  town  after  the  captuie,  ac-? 
cordingr  to  the  mode  of  British  warfare,  was  set  pn  fipe, 


1 


NEW  YORK  SYMPATHIbERS. 


1<?9 


\m-> 


The  eastern  district,  so  far  as  can  be  seen  from  the 
river,  contains  very  beautiful  lands,  which  have  the 
appearance  of  being  skilfully  cultivated ;  and  the  shores 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  are  lined  with  flourishing  cities, 
towns  and  villages,  among  which  may  be  named  Ma- 
tilda and  Moulinette  ;  while  on  the  lefl  bank,  the  last, 
br  among  the  last  views  we  had  of  New  York,  were 
the  cities  of  Madrid  and  Lisbon,  each  with  about  6000 
inhabitants  ;  which  little  cities,  though  in  their  infan- 
cy, yet  in  such  a  flourishing  condition,  that  the  proud 
capitols  of  Spain  and  Portugal,  whose  names  they  bear, 
have  no  occasion  to  be  ashamed  of  them  as  their  name- 
sakes. 

The  farther  we  sailed  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  the 
more  imposing,  grand  and  picturesque  became  the  sce- 
nery )  and  afler  passing  the  Long  Sault,  we  landed  at 
the  city  of  Cornwall,  a  splendid  town  on  the  river. — 
Here  we  remained  several  hours.  At  this  place^  sev- 
eral of  the  Canadians  with  whom  I  was  in  conversa- 
tion} concerning  the  late  troubles  of  the  province,  on 
which  they  all  would  converse,  in  a  kind  and  friendly 
manner,  except,  however,  that  they  complained  that 
the  New  York  sympathisers  were,  as  they  thought,  al- 
lowed by  the  Governor  of  the  State,  with  too  much 
impunity  to  take  cannon  out  of  a  public  arsenal  and 
invade  a  friendly  territory,  in  time  of  peace,  who  they 
contended  poured  in  by  thousands  to  aid  the  insurgents, 
and  whose  intervention  alone,  rendered  the  rebellion 
formidable  for  a  time.  The  only  answer  I  could  make 
to  this  complaint  or  charge  was,  that  the  Governor 
could  not  have  foreseen  and  provided  against  so  sudden 


^yj 


■Hi 


0 1 


If'! 


m 


u 


190 


COTRAU  OU  LAC^. 


4 


a  movement  along  so  extensive  a  frontier  ,  that  neither 
he  nor  the  federal  government  had  troops  enough  at 
their  command  to  act  as  a  suilicient  police,  and  that  it 
was  too  much  to  expect  of  them  to  maintain  perma- 
nently, a  large  standing  army,  for  the  sake  of  being 
prepared  for  such  rare  emergencies,  which  they  ac- 
knowledged in  part,  and  the  matter  dropped.  These 
were  the  only  persons  I  heard  assailing  the  Governor 
of  New  York,  or  in  anv  wav  blamins-  the  authorities 
of  the  State  in  the  matter,  though  spoken  of  in  the  wes- 
tern districts  frequently. 

After  leaving  the  city  of  Cornwall,  we  entered  lake 
St.  Francis,  and  after  passing  through  this  lake  the  sce- 
nery rapidly  increases  in  grandeur  j  not  only  the  sce- 
nery on  the  land,  but  the  beauty  of  the  majestic  river 
itself.  The  scene  was  truly  grand  and  imposing,  in 
sailing  down  the  Coteau  Du  Lac  and  the  Cascade  Rap- 
ids, which  are  nine  miles  in  length ;  and  while  passing 
down  these  rapids,  several  of  us  stood  on  deck  and 
looking  ahead  we  could  see  the  rolling,  dashing  and 
plunging  of  the  mighty  billows,  which  appeared  im- 
possible for  the  boat  to  pass  through,  without  being 
swallowed  up.  But  our  splendid  steamer  would  ascend 
and  descend  with  the  rolling  billows,  in  awful  gran- 
deur, gliding  up  and  down,  somewhat  resembling  a  bird 
f)ying  in  the  air,  which  I  considered  the  richest  and 
most  entertaining  scene  that  I  had  witnessed,  except 
the  great  cataract. 

The  St.  Lawrence,  in  its  course  from  lake  Ontario 
to  Montreal,  has  a  wide  extent  of  low  ground  on  both 
sides  of  it,  a  portion  of  which  is  rocky,  but  handsomely 


SCENERY  or  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


191 


being 


and  highly  cultivated ;  and  as  far  as  can  be  seen  from 
the  river  when  sailing  down  it,  the  shores  are  densely 
populated  5  which  perhaps  is  not  the  case  farther  in  the 
Country.  In  many  places  I  had  opportunities  of  see- 
ing far  into  the  country,  in  which  cases  1  satisfied  my- 
self that  the  country  in  those  places  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  the  river,  were  not  so  thickly  settled  as 
was  the  case  nearer  the  shore,  where  it  appeared  to  be 
almost  one  continuous  village,  from  Lake  Ontario  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Ottawa  river. 

The  St*  Lawrence,  in  its  course  from  lake  Ontario, 
to  the  foot  of  the  Cascade  rapids  above  named,  is  said 
to  fall  nearly  300  ieet,  descending  by  a  succession  ol 
rapids,  ol  which  the  above  named  ones  are  the  most 
prominent.  Between  these  succession  of  rapids  are  the 
lake-like  expansions  of  the  waters,  which  form  those 
beautiful  lakes,  one  or  two  of  which  have  been  named, 
whose  transparent  green  waters  present  a  very  beauti- 
ful appearance.  Immediately  below  the  abovenamed 
rapid,  we  entered  lake  St.  Louis,  in  sailing  through 
which,  brought  us  to  the  city  of  La  Chien,  at  the  mouth 
ol  the  Ottawa  river. 


M 


m 


i*M 


t  im  »'  i^'H  '!■»■ 


i 


\0t  ].  K     C4UEN* 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

LOWBR  CANADA. 

La  Chien — Approach  of  Montreal — French  Lan^age — French 
Porters — Ottawa  Hotel-Montreal-Location-Montreal  Moun- 
tain— Cote  de  Neige — Prospect — Marine  Shell — St  Henri — 
Goto  St.  Pierre — Trade- Wharves- St.  Patrick  Church-French 
Cathedral — Towers — Banking-House — Provincial  Capitol-  • 
Hall  of  Representatives — Rotundo — Paintings — Fortifications 
— Desertion — Guard  House — Nelson  Monument — Streets — 
Canadian  Horses — Cab — Rapid  gait  of  driving  Horses — Scene 
on  the  Wharves — Island  of  Montreal — High  state  of  cultiva- 
tion— Country  Dwellings — Barns—Fences^Departure-Steam- 
er  Ldtd  Sydenham. 

The  city  of  La  Chien  is  situated  below  the  junction 
ol  the  Ottawa  river  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  Hv- 
er  is  navigable  to  the  city  of  Bytown  in  the  Ottawa 
district,  from  which  town  boats  take  the  great  Rideau 
canal,  already  noticed,  which  was  constructed  at  a  cost 
of  upvirards  of  $5,000,000,  for  the  purpose  of  reaching 
lake  Ontario  at  Kingston  3  as  the  St.  Lawrence  cannot 
be  navigated  up  stream  above  the  city  of  La  Chien,  ow- 
ing to  the  succession  of  rapids  already  noticed.  The 
Ottawa  river  is  the  division  line  between  Upptir  and 
Lower  Canada,  or  as  it  is  more  properly  called,  East 
and  West  Canada. 

At  the  city  of  La  Chien,  I  took  the  cars  and  passed 
through  7  miles  of  very  beautiful  country,  to  the  city 
of  Montreal.  In  passing  through  this  region,  and  ap- 
proaching Montreal,  we  seemed  more  like  entering  a 
French  province  than  a  British  one.  The  language 
and  costume  of  the  peasant,  and  of  the  old  beggars,  the 


ArrROAMi  or  Moj.riirAL. 


193 


pripsts  with  llicir  brcviarii'j,  the  large  crosses  on  the 
public  roads,  with  the  symbols  ol  the  crucifixion,  the 
architecture  o(  the  houses,  with  their  steep  roofs,  large 
casemeiit  windows,  and  lastly  the  great  French  Catho- 
lic Cathedral,  rising  in  state  with  its  two  loft}'  towers 
which  seemed  to  pierce  the  clouds. 

While  thus  passing  Irom  LaChien  to  Montreal,  which 
had  so  much  the  appearance  of  a  French  province,  I 
\V9S  informed  by  an  intelligent  and  kind  Englishman, 
that  the  French  spoken  in  those  provinces  of  the  moth- 
er country,  is  otten  lar  less  correct,  and  less  easy  to  fol- 
low, than  that  of  the  Canadians,  whose  manners  are 
prepossessing,  much  softer,  and  more  polite,  than  those 
of  their  Anglo-Saxon  fellow-countrymen,  however  su- 
perior the  latter  may  be  in  energy,  and  capability  of 
advancement.     On  arriving  at  the  depot,  and  scarcely 
had  we  stepped  out  of  the  car,  before  we  were  surround- 
ed by  a  troop  of  porters  from   the   hoteb,  who  Were 
chiefly  Frenchmen,  holding  in  one  hand  their  ticket', 
in  the  other  a  carriage  whip,  and   crying  ^^Monsieur, 
voulez-vous,  avoir  voiture  ;"  which  words  they  would 
repeat  in  such  quick  succession,  attended  v/ith  such  po- 
liteness that  it  rendered  the  scene  '      a  stranger  more 
amusing  than  disgusting,  which  coulu  not  generally  be 
said  of  like  scenes  in  eities  in  the  United  States  ;  owina 
to  the  rudeness  of  the  porters,  who  frequently  rendered 
a  scene  of  this  kind   disf^ustin?;  to   a   stranger.     After 
vvitnessing  the  diversion  of  the  depot,  I  proceeded  with 
my  polite  Frenchmnn  to  the  Ottawa  llo'cl,  on  Great 
St.  James  Street,  ^^'h*^^e  I    found   Ihe  propnelcr,  Ii!r.. 

George  Mall,  a  kind  and  ho::pitab)"  h'^st,  r\rr  rradv  to 
.0 


■  B 


•if 


\i 


l! 


194 


MONTREAL 


II 


I 


give  information,  and  entertain  the  strahijer  as  fur  as  iff 
his  power. 

The  city  of  Montreal  contains  a  population  of^O,- 
134,  and  is  very  beautifully  situated  on  Montreal  Isl- 
and, in  the  district  named  Montreal.  The  city  stands 
;it  the  base  of  a  mountain  rising  abruptly  from  a  broad 
plain,  where  the  valleys  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  thr 
Ottawa  meet.  This  mountain  is  said  to  be  740  feet 
high  above  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  terminates  in  two 
summits,  one  considerably  higher  than  the  other,  and 
ij  capped  with  a  mass  of  greenstone  which  has  beenr 
found  to  be  80  feet  thick.  In  the  hollow  between  the 
two  eminences  of  this  celebrated  mountain,  (s  a  place 
called  Cote-de-Neige,  at  a  height  of  more  than  500  feet 
above  the  St.  Lawreuce,  where  may  be  lound  a  patch 
of  gravel  full  of  sea  shells,  which  appears  somewhat 
strange  at  first  sight,  to  find  them  at  so  great  a  height, 
and  causes  one  almost  to  suppose  that  this  mountain 
had  risen  up  out  of  the  great  and  majestic  St.  Lawrence. 
Prom  these  summits  the  stranger  has  a  very  delightful 
prospect  of  the  Island  of  Montreal,  and  the  great  and 
noted  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  both  up  and  down 
thrj  river  ;  and  he  has  here  an  opportunity  of  beholding 
vrilh  (jj^light,  that  king  of  rivers  rolling  its  beautiful 
wateitj  ill  awful  grandeur  towards  the  ocean. 

At  the  bas;i  of  the  mountain  on  its  eastern  side,  in 
the  suburbs  of  Montreal,  we  find  clay  and  sand,  in  which 
rnariau  shells  occur.  This  deposite  forms  a  terraco 
vv'hich  endo  ubruptly  in  a  steep  bank,  lacing  the  river- 
[nain.and  running  parallel  with  it  ior  three  or  fonr 
ir:;!e?.      If  varies  in  height  f-orr.  50  to   150  iec?t,  abovf» 


MoNT*iEAL  Mountain. 


103 


the  St.  Lawrence.  A  good  section  ol  this  modern  do- 
posite  is  to  bo  seen  at  Tanneries,  a  village  in  the  parish 
of  St.  Henri,  in  the  suburbs  of  Montreal,  where  exca- 
vations had  recently  been  made  for  a  now  road,  i^xpo- 
sing  horizontal  beds  of  loam  and  marly  clay,  in  one  of 
which  at  a  height  of  about  70  feet  above  the  St.  Law- 
rence, I  observed  great  numbers  of  muscle,  the  shells 
•etatning  both  valves  and  their  purple  color. 

About  4-0  feet  above  the  section  of  the  road  above 
.nentioned,  and  about  100  feet  above  the  St.  Lawrence, 
it  the  Cote  St.  Pierre,  also  in  the  suburbs  of  Montreal, 
tad  near  the  houss  of  a  Mr.  Brodie,  gravelly  beds  ap- 
>ear  in  which  shells  are  abundant,  retaining  both  valves. 
This  terrace  or  shelf  containing  these  remains,  is  inter- 
sected here  and  there  by  deep  narrow  gullies,  one  of 
.vhich  terminates  at  the  Tanneries.  In  the  channels 
jf  the  small  streams  draining  these  gullies,  I  found  fos- 
lil  shells  washed  out  of  the  clay  and  sand.  Almost  ev- 
ery portion  of  this  Island  presents  appearances  ofbe» 
ing  once  overflown. 

The  city  of  Mantreal  is  situated  180  miles  above  the 
:ity  of  Quebec,  by  the  river  St.  Lawrence  ;  is  now  the 
capitol  of  Canada ;  it  is  the  centre  ol  the  fur  trade,  of 
the  commerce  with  the  United  States,  and  is  the  largest 
and  most  commercial  city  of  British  America.  Its 
wharves  are  excellent,  being  chiefly  constructed  of 
ftone.  The  city  contains  many  elegant  buildings  which 
are  chiefly  constructed  of  stone.  A  large  portion  of 
the  buildings  are  covered  with  tin,  which  causes  the 
jcity  to  present  a  handsome  appearance,  more  especial- 
ly when  viewed  at  a  considerable  distance. 


196 


I'RKN'CII  CATHnPRAt. 


I  f 


I  ill 


Tlio  city  nlso  coiitaiiij  a  nuinbLT  of  very  lar<;e  and 
splendid  churches,  whicli  an*  chiefly  Catholic,  the  most 
elegant  ot  which  is  the  St.  Patrick  situated  on  comniand- 
injy  ground,  and  is  of  the  most  extravagant  finish  of  a- 
ny  church  I  ever  entered.  Near  the  centre  of  the  ci- 
ty, at  the  head  of  Great  St.  Janies  stn»ct,  facing  Notre 
Dame,  is  situated  the  Air-famed  French  Cathedral,  be- 
ing of  a  pointed  Gothic  style  of  architecture,  v/hich  is 
said  to  cover  7  acres  of  ground,  and  to  the  top  of  its 
towers,  nearly  iWO  feet.  After  entering  this  mighty 
structure,  I  was  amazed  at  its  size,  beinf^  much  larget 
than  it  appeared  to  be  before  entering  it.  Although 
large  and  powerful  as  it  is,  I  could  not  pursuade  my- 
self that  it  covered  7  acres  of  ground  ;  about  one  acre 
was  as  much  as  I  was  willing  to  allow  it,  judging  from 
its  oblong  appearance,  though  having  no  way  ol  ascer- 
taining by  measurement. 

This  tremendous  building  is  constructed  of  granite  ; 
its  fronts  face  the  north  and  south,  and  on  each  of  the 
corners  of  the  west  end,  is  constructed  a  tower  of  the 
same  materials  ;  the  tops  of  these  two  towers  are  near- 
ly 300  feet  from  the  ground  ;  in  the  inside  of  each  of 
these  towers  is  a  circular  staircase,  by  which  the  top 
of  the  tower  can  be  gained ;  from  this  there  is  a  delight- 
ful view  of  the  city  and  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
although  not  so  good  as  is  the  view  from  Montreal 
mountain.  In  one  of  these  towers  there  is  a  powerful 
bell,  at  nearly  300  feet  above  the  ground.  The  win- 
dows of  this  edifice  are  between  30  and  40  feet  high, 
and  their  width  in  proportion.  The  interior  of  the 
building  is  well  finished,  and  presents  a  very  elegant 


PROVINCTAI.    CAriTol.. 


197 


appparaiicf.  At  (li«*  west  <»nd  tliore  is  a  powerful  por- 
ficrt,  witli  a  ?imni)er  of  rna^vivo  columtis.  The  fli)or  Im 
gained  by  7  stono  steps,  oach  of  wliicli  is  about  100 
feet  long. 

On  the  opposite,  at  the  head  of  th(?  same  street,  is 
the  Montreal  Hiirdc,  a  very  splendid  frrariite  edifice,  with 
a  superb  portico  siippnrterl  l>y  S  hiirhly  polished  (luted 
columns,  of  very  beautiful  proportions. 

The  capitol  i?*  situated  toward  the  eastern  extremity 
ofthecity,  on  the  lowest  ground  in  the  city.  Tt  is 
built  of  granite,  and  is  a  very  splendid  edifice,  having 
a  rotundo  in  the  centre,  and  two  wings  facing  the  St. 
I^awrer^ce,  which  adorns  its  northeastern  front.  The 
wingsare  only  two  stories  hi;.5h.  The  representative 
halls  are  in  the  upper  stories,  which  are  very  beauti- 
fully ornamented  ;  and  in  addition  to  the  windows  they 
are  each  lighted  from  the  top  by  two  small  domes. — 
The  floors  are  covered  with  very  handsome  red  carpets ; 
the  seats  are  cushioned  and  dressed  with  red  velvet ; 
immediately  on  the  right  and  left  of  tlie  Speaker's  chair 
is  a  lion  facing  the  chair,  and  immediately  above  it  is 
suspended  the  British  crown.  Othi  r  portions  of  the 
hall  are  ornamented  with  British  emblems,  and  the  hall 
presented  quite  a  gaudy  and  elegant  appearance. 

The  rotundo  is  lighted  by  a  large  dome ;  the  floor  is 
also  covered  with  red  carpets ;  the  walls  are  adorned 
with  a  number  of  very  splendid  paintings;  the  most 
beautiful  of  which  is  a  painting  of  George  III,  which 
alone  cost  $6,500.  Among  the  others  I  noticed  the 
Governor  Generals  of  Canada,  such  as  Sir  Guy  Carl- 
ton, Sir  J.  Burgoyen,  SirGeorj;e  Prevost,  &c. ;  in  ad- 


'  t 


193 


roHTiriOAi  ION'S. 


dirion  to  tlicie  w^-re  niatiy  other  military  chardclers  of 
Canada ;  a  row  of  celebrated  navigators,  at  the  head  of 
which  stood  Sir  lleary  Hudson.  The  pwrson  having 
charge  of  the  capitol  is  a  pt^rff  ct  gentleman  to  all  ap- 
pearance, and  takt^s  a  delight  in  showing  and  explain- 
ing every  pDrtioii  of  the  building.  This  Englishman 
on  learning  that  I  was  a  Virginian,  appeared  to  be  the 
more  delighted  in  entertaining  and  giving  me  such  in- 
formation as  was  consistent  with  his  post,  which  I  was 
also  h^ippy  to  witness  in  mmy  of  the  citic?s  of  the  Uni- 
ted Slates,  where  I  learned  the  high  estimation  in  which 
the  S  ale  of  Virgini:i  is  held  by  the  States  and  cities 
which  surround  her. — And  here,  entirely  alone,  a  per- 
fect stringer,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  British  province,  I 
also  had  opportunities  oi  witnessing  new  proofs  of  the 
high  pinnacle  of  esteem  on  which  stands  Virginia.  I 
therv.-fore  as  a  matter  of  course,  could  not  help  feeling 
my  pridv*  increasing,  as  being  a  native  son  ot  Virginia, 
and  which  caused  me  almost  to  attribute  part  of  my 
success  to  the  same  cause. 

The  next  objects  of  attraction  in  Montreal,  are  the  for- 
tifications which  protect  the  citv,  where  are  lar?e  bo- 
dies  of  troops  on  duty,  which  appears  to  be  the  case  in 
all  the  forts  of  Canada  since  the  revolt.  I  was  inform- 
ed by  a  gentlemm  that  the  officers  had  an  irksome  task 
to  perform,  in  maintaining  strict  discipline  in  their 
corps,  and  prevent  the  desertion  of  soldiers.  A  num- 
ber of  poor  fellows  I  saw  in  the  g'lard-houie  and  pris- 
on, some  to  be  punished  by  imprisonment  for  ten  years 
and  some  during  their  lives,  while  othori  are  condema* 
ad  and  i^hol . 


>ritLSON  MOM'MBNT. 


1!)9 


In  one  of  these  fortifications,  on  high  and  command- 
ing ground,  is  situated  the  Nelson  Monument.  It  U  a 
column  between  4tO  and  50  feet  in  height.  The  col- 
umn is  placed  on  a  pedestal  about  8  feet  high,  and  as 
many  feet  square.  On  one  face  of  the  pedestal  are  in- 
scripMons  highly  applauding  the  great  hero  of  tLe  na- 
vy, the  other  faces  contain  appropriate  emblems  hand- 
somely sculptured  out  of  marble.  On  the  top  of  the 
column  is. placed  the  statue  of  Lord  Nelson,  with  hi: 
face  to  the  north,  the  forehead  fractured  or  broken  in 
no  doubt  an  imitation  of  the  wound  which  caused  his 
<ieath,  as  the  cavity  in  the  forehead  must  have  been 
sculptured.  The  statue  being  composed  of  solid  marble, 
it  could  not  possibly  have  been  done  by  a  blow. 

The  city  contains  several  broad  and  handsome  streets, 
the  principal  one  is  Great  St.  James  street.  These  ar« 
blocked  with  square  blocks  of  vi'ood  one  foot  long,  which 
are  placed  on  one  end  and  neatly  fitted  together,  which 
makes  a  much  smoother  street  than  those  paved  with 
fitone.  The  streets  in  the  older  portion  of  the  city,  are 
chiefly  narrow,  crooked  and  dirty,  but  generally  well 
paved.  Except  several  of  the  principal  streets,  the  side 
walks  are  narrovv,  which  renders  it  somewhat  annoy- 
ing  to  a  stranger  to  pas3,  as  the   walks  rarely   exue^jd 

three  feet  in  width. 

In  this  city,  on  the  evening  of  the  25th  of  May,  I  re- 
ceived the  news  by  some  of  the  New  York  papers,  of 
the  nomination  of  Gens.  Cass  and  Butler,  as  candidates 
for  the  Presidency  and  Vice  Presidency  ;  which  was 
only  three  days  after  the  meeting  of  the  delegates  of 
ibe  Biltimorj  Convention.     The  newa  was  conveyed 


rj 


'i  '"^ 

t       if   I 

h: 

<  h 


^ou 


HOlls^KS — POiVrHT>". 


^ 


by  telegraph  to  some  of  the  citi(»s  on  the  iVontier  of 
New  York,  from  which  it  had  time  to  reach  Montreal 
by  the  evening  above  named. 

Canada  is  celebrated  for  its  excellent  breeds  of  hor- 
ses. The  Canadian  horse  is  truly  a  noble  animal.  J 
had  seen  and  admired  many  of  these  excellent  horses  by 
the  time  I  arrived  at  Montreal,  where  they  appeared  to 
increase  in  beauty  and  size,  and  I  did  not  see  an  indif- 
ferent horse  in  all  the  city.  In  this  great  metropolis, 
the  draught  horse  is  particularly  worthy  of  notice. — 
They  are  large,  active  and  handsome,  possessing  great 
power  and  strength.  Scare  always  driven  by  the  French, 
who  always  make  the  horse  trot  at  the  top  of  his  speed. 
The  riding  vehicle  is  a  cab  or  caliash,  in  each  of  which 
there  is  only  one  horse,  as  omnibusses  and  carriages  are 
rarely  seen  in  the  city.  T  was  considerably  amused  on 
several  occasions,  while  sitting  in  my  cab,  as  the  little 
Frenchman  would  drive  with  such  impetuosity,  that  I 
thought  he  certainly  would  drive  down  every  thing  be- 
fore him ;  and  every  now  and  then  he  would  blate  out 
at  the  top  of  his  lungs,  the  words  "ho,  la  I"  at  which 
words  his  horse  would  spring  to  it  again  with  increased 
rapidity,  until  he  would  become  so  completely  crowd- 
ed and  wedged  up  in  the  streets  among  the  cabs  and 
drays,  as  to  compel  him  to  stop  ;  and  no  sooner  tTian 
there  was  again  room  to  pass,  I  would  hear  the  wordsi 
"ho,  la  !"  and  find  my  cab  passing  over  the  ground  with 
as  much  impetuosity  as  the  ancient  with  his  war  char- 
iot.    While  standing  on  a  higjh  bank  above  one  of  the 

CI  w> 

wharves,  which  banks  are  walled  up  with  rock  from 
40  to  50  feet  high,  on  the  lower  and  upper  sides  ofth^ 


»1!L. 


corxTiiY  n'jiLDiM<:;s  — !'!•  .\ci:s. 


201 


Iroads,  which  are  cut  obliquely  down  the  banks  to  tlie 
wharves,  and  which  are  always  crowded  with  carts 
and  drays ;  and  while  looking  leisurely  on  the  scene 
on  the  wharves  and  the  roads  leading  from  them,  I  saw 
ahorse  and  cart  of  sand  fall  over  the  wall,  down  the 
bank  about  30  feet  high,  on  the  plank  ftoor  of  the  wharf, 
and  1  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  see  them  get  up  the 
horse  and  cart,  again  load  the  sand  and  drive  off  as  if 
nothing  had  happened.  This  accident  occurred  through 
the  driver  neglecting  to  be  with  his  horse. 

The  lands  on  the  island  of  Montreal  are  very  fertile, 
and  highly  and  skilfully  cultivated.  The  farms  are 
small,  the  low  lands  are  well  drained,  deeply  plowed 
and  well  pulverized,  and  have  more  the  appearance  of 
a  garden  than  a  cornfield.  The  houses  in  the  country 
are  generally  small,  with  steep  roofs ;  the  barns  and 
stables  are  large,  so  as  to  contain  all  the  fodder  and 
beasts,  as  neither  are  allowed  to  remain  out  during  the 
severe  winters.  The  fences  about  the  buildings  are 
constructed  of  plank,  which  with  the  buildings  are 
whitened,  the  whole  making  quite  a  handsome  appear- 
ance. The  remainder  of  the  fences  are  made  of  cedar 
posts  or  stakes,  pointed  and  driven  in  the  ground  close 
enough  together  to  prevent  hogs  from  creeping  through. 
This  forms  a  fence  about  4  feet  high,  and  within  mne 
inches  of  the  top,  there  is  a  lath  or  pole  secured  against 
each  side  by  pins  or  withs,  and  on  each  side  is  thrown 
up  a  bank  of  earth,  between  15  and  18  inches  high,  to 
prevent  their  raising  by  the  action  of  the  frost ;  and  the 
ditch  thereby  made  affords  a  drain. 

Afler  remaining  several  days  in   Montreal,   I  took 

r 


M 


)| 


il 


202 


LAKE  5T.  rKTKn. 


p;i»sage  on  hoar.l  the  largt?  aovl  spioaJid  sic'ainbo^t  Lori! 
Sydenham,  and  sailed  for  the  city  of  Quebec,  180  miles 
down  the  St.  Lawrence,  where  I  found  the  mass  of  th*» 
population  settled  in  the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Here  a  person  is  at  no  time  out  of  sight  of  half  a  dozen 
dwellings,  the  most  of  which  are  whitened  and  neatly 
arranged,  and  when  viewed  from  our  excellent  boat, 
while  plowing  the  waves  of  the  great  and  majestic  riv- 
er, they  presented  a  very  flourishing  and  handsome  ap- 
pearance. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

Lake  St.  Peter— Alluvial  flats— City  of  Three  Rivers— Citio* 
and  Towns—Approach  of  Quebec — Point  Levi — Cape  Dia- 
mond— Island  of  Orleans — River  St.  Lawrence — Harbour — 
Quebec — Albion  Hotel — Walls  of  the  city — Houses— Streets 
—Beggars — French  Guide — Permit — ApiH>oach  to  the  Cita- 
del— Redoubts — Entrance  into  the  Citadel — British  Officer — 
£ast  Wall — Impressions  ofcannou'shot — Height  of  the  Cita- 
del above  the  St.  Lawrence — West  Wall — Battery— Plains  of 
Abraham — North  Wall— South  Wall — Arsenal— Magnificent 
view — Grand  Scenery — Strength  of  Quebec — Well  of  Water 
— Barracks — Scotch  Soldiers — Singular  Dress — Coldness  of 
the  weather — Guard  House — Secret  Redoubt-~-Height8of  A- 
braham — Ascent  of  Wolf— Strange  incidents  connected  with 
this  affair— Battle-ground— Woirs  Monumtnt— Teams  of  Dogs 
— Governor's  Garden — Monument. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  river  Sorelle  commences  lake 
St.  Peter.  The  St.  Lawrence  here  expands  into  a  lake, 
bounded  by  low  alluvial  flats,  which  are  sometimes  sfev- 
Btal  miles  broad.     These  fiats  are  in  turn  bounded  by  i 


<1TIE3  AND  T0\rN3. 


203 


steep  bank  of  tarid  drift  about  -tO  fe«t  high.  In  sailiug 
through  this  beautiful  lake,  with  the  handsome  alluvial 
flats  bounded  in  the  distance  by  gteep  high  banks,  af- 
fords to  the  stranger  a  rich  scene  to  behold.  Immedi- 
ately belovV  the  mouth  of  the  la\p,  is  situated  the  city 
of  the  Three  Rivets,  which  is  located  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  on  its  south  bank  opposite  the  ci- 
ty the  St.  Francis  river  and  the  Ramaska  river  form  a 
junction  with  the  same,  auJ  jast  below  the  city  the 
river  St.  Maurice  also  empties  into  the  St.  Lawrence, 
which  give  rise  to  the  name  of  the  town,  which  is  next 
in  importance  to  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

The  city  of  the  Three  Rivers   is   well  situated  for 
trade,  in  which  it  is  considerably  engaged.     It  is  loca- 
ted in  the  centre  oi  the  Three  River  district.     By  the 
time  I  arrived  at  this  place,  I  had  passed  many  flour- 
ishing cities  and  towns  immediately   on  the  banks  of 
the  St,  Lawrence  ;  among  which  may.  be  named,  Lon- 
«quil, Trembles,  Vercheres,  V  AsjSpmptipi>,.  St.  Sudpice, 
Contre  Cour,  La  Valtrie,  La  Norave,  Wm.  Henrv  and 
Berthier,  in  Montreal  district,  and  Port  du  Lac,  in  the 
Three  River  distriiCt.     After  remaining  in  the  town  ot 
the  Three  Rivers  several  hours,   we  again  sailed   for 
Quebec,  and  passed  the  cities  of  Rockelau,  Champlain 
and  St.  Pierre,  wl^en  we  arrived  at  the  line  of  the  Que- 
bec district,  in  which  we  passed  St.  Anne,  and  Lotbi- 
enire,  soon  after  which  we  arrived   at   the  lar-famed 
city  of  Quebec! 

The  city  can  be  seen  at  a  considerabh?  distance,  ow- 
ing to  its  great  height.  Th*  St.  Lawrence  at  thii 
place  is  wedged  into  a  narrow  channel  between  a  ^uai^ 


Hit 


n 


m 


204 


Q  U  L  U  E  C  . 


M! 


lii' 


'     ',ti 


'<•} 


ter  and  a  half  mile  wide,  by  a  high  point  olland  on 
the  south  bank  called  Point  Levi,  and  Cape  Diamond, 
on  the  north  bank,  extending  a  considerable  distance 
into  the  St.  Lawrence,  This  towering  Cape  is  35l) 
feet  high,  and  is  crowned  with  the  celebrated  Citadel, 
which  is  pronounced  the  Gibralter  oi  America.  The 
St.  Lawrence  after  passing  this  cape,  turns  immediate- 
ly to  the  left,  expands  its  waters  and  embosoms  the  isl- 
and of  Orleans  just  below  the  cape.  The  river  after 
passing  the  cape,  forms  an  excellent  harbour  on  the 
northeast  of  the  city,  which  is  under  the  immediate 
range  of  the  guns  of  the  forts.  On  the  east  and  south 
no  landing  can  be  eflected,  owing  to  the  steepness  and 
height  of  the  rock. 

The  city  contains  a  population  of  30,357  ;  it  is  divi- 
ded into  two  parts  called  upper  and  lower  city.  The 
lower  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  neatly  built  since 
the  great  fire  of  184.3,  when  it  was  entirely  destroyed. 
It  is  now  handsomely  built,  being  covered  with  tin  and 
slate,  as  wood  is  prohibited.  This  portion  of  the  city 
contains  such  manufactories  as  are  here  carried  on. 

After  landing,  I  proceeded  through  the  lower  into 
the  upper  city,  to  the  Albion  hotel,  near  the  centre  of 
the  city.  This  part  of  Quebec  is  fenced  by  a  high  and 
powerful  stone  wall.  The  buildings  are  nearly  all  stone, 
but  large  and  well  built ;  the  ttone  are  of  a  rough,  grey 
species;  the  roofs  are  of  tiles  or  slate  ;  the  streets  are 
crooked,  narrow  and  very  roughly  paved,  and  gener- 
ally very  dirty ;  the  side-walks  only  from  two  to  three 
feet  wide  ;  and  at  a|/nost  every  corner  sits  i  beggar, 
with  his  arras  extended,  imploring  alms,  and  many  of 


vl 


i'4-. 


ArrROACII    TO  THK    CITADEf.. 


20.5 


4 


tfiem  blind,  sitting  at  tlie  corners  of  these  narrow  side- 
walks, who  on  hearing  the  footstepsof  a  person,  would 
extend  their  arms  and  in  the  most  pitiful  tones  inDplore 
alms.  For  a  moment  I  was  struck  with  surprise  ;  I 
could  scarcely  believe  that  I  was  walking  the  streets 
of  far-famed  Quebec,  under  the  control  of  proud  and 
haughty  England  ;  but  yes,  they  were  the  streets  of 
Quebec,  and  those  troops  of  beggars  which  annoyed  me 
on  every  hand,  are  the  beggars  of  the  same  proud  and 
haughty  nation. 

I  h^re  hired  horse,  calaish  and  driver,  whom  I  was 
compelled  to  pay  the  sum  of  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents 
per  day,  and  pay  the  tolls  on  all  the  ferries,  bridges 
and  gates.  It  is  true  tiiis  was  a  high  fee,  but  the  best 
I  could  do,  and  which  I  did  not  regret,  as  my  little 
Frenchman  was  quite  intelligent  and  entertaining. — 
At  8  o'clock  in  the  morning,  at  the  appointed  hour,  I 
applied  to  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  forces  ofLow- 
er  Canada,  at  his  residence  in  the  city,  for  a  permit  to 
enter  the  citadel  and  fortifications  of  Quebec,  which  I 
readily  received  ;  and  found  this  great  military  charac- 
ter, a  man  to  all  appearance  a  perfect  gentleman.  I 
then  proceeded  with  my  guide  to  the  first  barrier  on 
the  side  towards  the  Heights  of  Abraham,  where  we 
were  hailed  by  the  sentinel,  who  demanded  to  know  if 
we  had  a  permit,  to  which  I  answered  in  the  affirma- 
tive, and  was  permitted  to  pass.  This  demand  was  re- 
peated at  the  second  and  third  barriers,  and  the  same 
answer  given.  When  we  arrived  at  the  fourth  or  chief 
wall,  immediately  within  the  gate  a  platoon  of  soldiers 
were  drawn  up,  who  kept  us  at  bay  till   the  commt^n- 


500 


IrORTlFlC-VflON^J. 


*  I 


der  of  the  garrison  stepped  up  and  received  our  pasi» 
and  ordered  a  commissioned  officer  to  attend  us  through 
the  fortifications,  at  which  order  the  platoon  wheeled 
and  cleared  the  gateway* 

I  was  delighted  to  find  this  officer  a  perfect  gentle-» 
man,  who  appeared  to  take  great  delight  m  showing  me 
the  great  strength  of  their  fortifications.  The  wall 
next  the  east  precipice  is  only  about  9  feet  thick,  con- 
structed of  very  large  grey  stone,  on  which  1  was  shown 
small  impressions  made  by  cannon  shot,  which  the  of- 
ficer informed  me  were  made  with  the  heaviest  guns 
they  possessed,  which  were  placed  on  one  occasion  on 
ships,  and  floated  to  a  convenient  distance  in  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  discharged  upon  the  Wall,  fot  the  pur- 
pose of  ascertaining  what  impression  they  would  have 
upon  the  same;  On  another  occasion  they  were  pla- 
ced on  the  ice  when  the  rivei*  was  frozen,  and  discharg- 
ed foi'  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  same  fact*  This 
experiment  was  performed  no  doubt  for  the  purpose  of 
getting  the  impression  abroad  that  the  walls  could  not 
be  effectually  reached,  even  with  the  heaviest  guns ; 
and  if  the  object  was  to  circulate  that  impression,  it  is 
perhaps  a  correct  one,  judging  from  the  thickness  of 
the  wall,  and  its  foundation  being  the  enormous  height 
of  356  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  main  walls  on  ihe  west,  next  the  plains  of  A- 
braham,  are  between  70  and  80  feet  thick,  though  not 
wholly  constructed  of  stone,  as  it  has  the  appearance 
of  being  two  thick  walls  and  the  middle  filled  up  with 
earth ;  on  the  top  of  this  great  wall  there  is  a  very  beau- 
tiful sward,  which  is  also  the  case  on  the  tops  of  all  the 


Sk. 


BATTEniEfl  k.  WALLS. 


507 


barriers.  In  rear  of  the  guns  placed  in  the  main  wall, 
there  is  a  third  wall,  which  is  arched  over  and  joins  the 
front  wall,  thereby  forming  a  sheltered  passage  to  pro- 
tect the  guns  and  soldiers  from  the  tempests  of  these 
cold  and  tefrible  regions ;  thus  the  main  wall  of  the 
citadel  in  that  direction,  may  be  properly  said  to  con- 
sist of  three  walls  at  the  bottom,  uniting  at  the  ton  and 
forming  one  wall  of  the  thickness  abovenamed,  and  a- 
bout  20  feet  in  height. 

The  battery  in  the  wall  consists  of  heavy  guns  which 
with  theredoubtsin  front,  rake  every  inch  of  ground  on 
thecelebratedplainsofAbrahamjWhichslopegentlyfrom 
the  first  redoubt  downward  lor  several  miles ;  and  ow- 
ing to  the  heisiht  of  the  rock  on  which  the  fortificationa 
stand,  which  rises  abruptly  from  the  redoubt,  so  that 
the  whole  of  the  batteries  caa  play  on  the  plains  at  the 
same  time  without  interfering  with  each  other,  the  shot 
of  the  upper  ones  passing  over  the  lower  ones,  and  thus 
80  completely  raking  every  inch  of  this  far-famed 
height,  that  it  would  be  impossible  for  a  storming  par- 
ty to  advance  from  that  direction. 

On  the  north  of  the  citadel,  on  a  portion  of  the  same 
rock,  is  situated  the  upper  city  j  though  lower  than  the 
citadel,  so  that  the  batteries  in  that  direction  can  range 
above  the  top  of  the  city,  so  that  they  can  aid  the  bat- 
teries in  the  lower  city  in  defending  the  grounds  to- 
wards the  town  of  Beaufort  and  the  river  Montmoren- 
cy. In  this  direction  in  the  lower  city,  can  be  seen 
the  redoubts  assaulted  by  the  noble  and  heroic  Mont- 
gomery, during  the  revolutionary  war.  In  this  direc- 
tion a  storming  army  would  have  to  take  possession  of 


(■>*' 


i 


im 


i^l 


208 


PROSPKCT   FlluM  THE  (  ITAbKI.. 


1 


■**, 


all  the  forfications  of  the  lower  city,  pass  up  througli 
it,  and  scale  the  walla  ot  the  upper  city  in  the  very 
face  of  a  mighty  battery,  before  they  could  assault  the 
citadel.  On  the  south  and  east  is  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  the  banks  of  the  cape,  which  as  before  named  are 
356  feet  high.     The  east  wall  was  first  given  as  being 

o  on 

9  feet  thick  :  the  south  wall  is  a  little  thicker,  owing  to 
its  fronting  a  high  point  of  land  on  the  south  bank  ol 
the  St.  Lawrence  called  Point  Levi,  about  100  feet 
high,  and  being  onl}'  between  a  quarter  and  a  half  milo 
distant.  The  guns  of  the  citadel  are  so  arranged  as  to 
rake  every  inch  of  this  point,  so  that  it  would  be  im- 
possible for  an  army  to  get  possession  and  I'ortify  that 
point. 

In  the  centre  of  the  citadel,  is  situated  a  very  strong 
and  powerful  building,  containing  the  magazines.  This 
cannot  be  reached  from  any  point  without  the  walls  of 
the  citadel,  owing  to  the  size  of  the  fortification,  the 
height  of  the  walls  and  its  great  elevation  above  all  the 
surrounding  country ;  so  that  this  magazine  stands  se- 
Aire  from  shot,  from  whatever  direction  they  may  come, 
until  a  breach  is  effected  in  the  walls  of  the  fortificar 
lion,  because  otherwise  after  the  shot  passes  over  the 
top  of  the  wall,  it  must  also  pass  far  above  the  top  of 
the  building  ;  and  owing  to  its  great  strength,  and  be- 
ing entirely  fire-proof,  it  cannot  be  effected  by  shell. 

The  top  of  this  building  is  the  highest  point  that  can 
be  gained  on  the  far-famed  rock  of  Quebec ;  on  this  is 
placed  the  British  flag,  waving  in  all  the  pride  of  the 
British  nation.  I  ascended  to  the  top  of  this  building, 
and  under  the  folds  of  the  British  flag,  I  viewed  with 


SfJOTPIl    SOI.DIKUs;, 


200 


astonish m<*nt  one  of  the  most  spleiuHd  prospects  in  tlie 
world.  The  country  far  and  wide  decorated  with  towns 
and  villaores,  and  striped  with  little  streams,  pouring 
their  sparkling  waters  into  the  great  and  majestic  St. 
Jjawrence,  whose  broad  white  waves  are  rendered  ten- 
fold more  imposing  and  sublime  by  the  rays  of  the  me- 
ridian sun,  while  they  are  rolling  onward  and  onward 
to  the  mighty  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

Imposing  indeed  were  my  feelings,  while  mounted 
on  the  highest  pinnacle  of  the  magazine,  which  crown- 
ed the  mighty  rock  of  Quebec,  and  viewing  under  the 
folds  of  the  British  flag,  the  celebrated  Gibralter  of  A- 
merica,  which  is  the  great  key  by  which  the  British 
hold  their  power  in  America.  And  here,  from  this 
towering  pinnacle,  I  convinced  myself  of  the  fallacy 
of  an  army  to  attempt  taking  these  great  fortifications, 
other  than  by  a  regular  seige.  Though  having  no  claims 
to  scientific  warfare,  I  satisfied  myself  that  I  would  be 
safe  in  advancing  that  the  citadel  of  Quebec  would 
never  be  taken  by  storm,  so  long  as  the  garrison  remain- 
ed true  to  their  trust. 

Near  the  building  which  contains  the  magazine  there 
is  a  well  of  excellent  water,  which  truly  is  of  itself  a 
curiosity,  when  considering  the  solidity  and  amazing 
height  of  the  rock  out  of  which  it  is  hewn.  Immedi- 
ately under  the  west  wall  are  the  barracks  of  the  sol- 
diers, all  of  stone  ;  in  a  word,  the  whole  of  this  great 
fortification  is  fire-proof.  Here  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
seeing  a  portion  of  the  Scotch  regiment,  sent  into  Canr 
ada  after  the  insurrection  and  troubles  a  few  years  ago. 
The  uniform  of  this  regiment  is  truly  very  singular  af- 


I 

i| 


11' 


mi: 

w 


■.it; 


210 


CUAKD-HOUSR. 


ter  the  25lli  of  May,  which  continues  to  be  worn  till 
the  aj-proach  of  cold  weather.  This  dress  consists  ot'n 
red  hunting-shirt,  with  the  waist  girdled  by  a  bhck 
leather  belt ;  the  pantaloons  white,  extending  no  far- 
ther down  than  within  three  inches  of  the  knee;  awhile 
stocking  extendinj]:  to  the  knee,  supported  by  a  red  gar- 
ter, the  end  of  which  is  handsomely  fringed  and  tied  in 
a  bow-knot,  over  which  the  top  of  the  stocking  is  turn- 
ed, the  end  of  the  garter  hanging  within  nine  inches  of 
the  ground  ;  and  on  the  foot  a  low  quartered  shoe.  The 
leg  between  the  top  of  the  stocking  and  the  pantaloons, 
is  entirely  bare  for  three  inches  above  and  three  inches 
below  the  knee. 

When  I  first  saw  this  singular  corps  leave  the  bar- 
racks for  the  purpose  of  training,  I  was  perfectly  aston- 
ished, not  only  considering  the  strange  and  disgusting 
mode  of  their  uniform,  but  also  the  coldness  of  the  wea- 
ther. I  at  first  could  scarcely  believe  mv  own  sio-ht, 
as  I  had  on  a  great  box-coat,  well  buttoned  up,  and  did 
not  feel  any  thing  more  than  comfortable  at  that,  and 
these  n;ien  could  walk  and  stand  about  in  that  condition, 
on  this  celebrated  rock,  which  is  one  of  the  highest  and 
coldest  in  all  Canada,  with  as  much  comfort  apparent- 
ly as  I  did. 

The  guard-house  presented  an  object  of  pity.  Here 
were  confined  a  number  of  soldiers,  chiefly  for  deser- 
tion, who  are  here  punished  in  various  ways,  owing  to 
the  dignity  of  the  crime  the}'  committed.  Some  of  these 
poor  wretches  are  compelled  to  linger  out  all  the  re- 
mairHer  of  their  days  in  this  miserable  prison;  some 
are  released  after  ten  years  confmement ;  othej-s  after 


' 


4 


su: 


ncronTs  or  abraiiam. 


211 


receiving  various  corporeal  puniahmenti  aud  but  one  or 
two  years  confinement  are  released ;  while  still  anoth- 
er class  are  condemne  1  and  shot. 

Between  the  upprr  cit^  aid  the  north  wall  of  the 
citadel,  and  iniii  ^diately  on  the  outside  and  beneath  the 
battery,  I  discovered  a  kind  of  secret  redoubt,  where 
some  workmen  were  making  alterations,  which  wasall 
that  I  had  time  to  see  ;  for  no  sooner  than  the  officer 
who  attended  me,  discovered  that  my  attention  was 
drawn  to  that  spot,  he  kindly  informed  mo  he  was  not 
•uffered  to  allow  me  to  inspect  that  place  ;and  of  course 
I  immediately  withdrew  from  the  spot.  We  next  vis- 
ited the  redoubts  towards  the  plains  of  Abraham,  and 
such  other  objects  worth}'  of  notice  therewith  connect- 
ed>  after  which  we  returned  to  the  officers'  barracks, 
where  my  kind  officer  entertained  me  till  the  arrival  of 
my  French  guide,  when  a  cordial  shake  of  the  hand 
parted  us,  and  I  mounted  my  caliash  and  started  for  the 
plains  ol  Abraham. 

These  memorable  Heights  are  situated  on  the  west  of 
the  fortifications,  and  with  the  exception  of  a  small 
hollow  or  sink,  the  plain  slopes  p^radually  from  the  first 
redoubt  westward  about  one  and  a  hall  miles,  where 
there  is  a  hollow  running  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  up 
which  hollow  Gen.  Woif  conducted  his  army  by  climb- 
ing up  the  rocks  and  roots,  which  w^as  truly  a  rugged 
path  for  an  army  to  pass  up.  There  appears  to  be 
something  strange  connected  with  this  affair;  for  we 
are  informed  that  Gen.  Wolf,  the  commander-in-chief 
of  the  British  army,  had  established  his  head-quarters 
en  the  island  of  Orleans,  which  is  an  island  in  the  St. 


R<;  (Ml 
I  I'' 


*  mi 

1  •    *  w 


II 


■; 


212 


WOLr's  CAPTUllE  OP  Ql'LBKC. 


I^v^rence,  commencincT  about  two  miles  below  Que- 
bec, from  whence  all  his  movements  proceeded  ;  and 
owing  to  the  vigilance  and  daring  of  Gen.  Montcalm, 
the  French  commander-in-chief,  all  his  plans  were  baf- 
fled and  defeated,  till  disappointment,  fatigue  and  watch- 
ing caused  Wolf  to  fall  violently  sick,  and  on  his  sick- 
bed he  conceived  the  bold  design  of  transporting  his 
troops  up  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  he  accordingly  did 
as  soon  as  he  recovered  from  his  sickness.  How  he 
transported  his  troops  up  the  strong  current  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  in  a  manner  under  the  guns  of  the  great  cit- 
adel, and  passed  all  the  sentinels  posted  up  the  river, 
without  the  knowledge  of  either,  is  a  mystery  to  me. 
It  is  true  the  British  had  possession  of  the  south  bank  of 
the  river,  and  of  course  the  French  could  not  post  sen- 
tinels there,  to  watch  the  movements  of  the  enemy 
and  give  the  alarm  ;  but  so  far  as  I  am  capable  of  judg- 
ing, the  narowness  of  the  river  at  this  place,  and  the 
rapidity  of  the  current,  would  in  my  opinion  render  it 
impossible  for  such  a  fleet  to  pass  up  without  being  dis- 
covered. 

But  we  ^re  informed  that  Wolf  effected  this  object, 
and  passed  nine  miles  above  the  city,  where  he  learn^ 
ed  by  a  deserter,  that  Gen.  Bougainville  was  stationed 
above  him  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  names  of  the  reg- 
iments he  commanded,  and  that  the  garrison  at  Quebec 
expected  provisions  from  that  General.  After  having 
ascertained  those  particulars,  he  left  his  ships  one  hour 
after  midnight,  on  the  12th  of  September,  1759,  and 
in  boats  silently  dropped  down  the  river  in  search  ofa 
landing,  till  they  \yere  hailed  by  one  of  the   French 


-1 


111! 


WOLF*i  CAPTUIIE  OF  C^UEBEC. 


213 


below  Que- 
leeded  ;  and 

Montcalm, 
.ns  were  bal- 
;  and  watch- 
on  his  sick- 
sporting  his 
Drdingly  did 
!.  How  he 
it  of  the  St. 
he  great  cit- 
>  the  river, 
ery  to  me. 
Duth  bank  of 
lot  post  sen- 

the  enemy 
.ble  ofjudg- 
e,  and  the 
on  render  it 
jt  being dis- 

this  object, 
'e  he  learn^ 
as  stationed 

of  the  reg- 
1  at  Quebec 
fter  having 
ps  one  hour 

1759,  and 

search  of  a 
he   French 


I 


sentinels  posted  along  the  shore,  who  cliallenged  him 
in  the  customary  military  language  of  the  French,  "9MI 
ri//"  (who  goes  there?)  to  which  an  English  captain 
who  was  familiar  with  the  French  'rrguage,  promptly 
replied,  "/a  France ;"  when  the  sentinel  demanded^ 
^^quel  regiment  ?"  (to  what  regiment  1)  the  answer  he 
received  was  "Je  la  Reine,^^  (the  Queen's).  The  sen- 
tinel immediately  replied,  ^'passej^^  at  oiice  concluding 
that  this  was  the  convoy  of  provisions  expected  frorri 
Gen.  Bougainville. 

The  other  sentinels  were  deceived  in  a  similar  man- 
ner, which  at  once  shows  that  they  were  ignorant  of 
the  fact  of  the  British  being  up  the  river,  because  they 
could  not  rationally  expect  a  convoy  ot  provisions  to 
pass  down  the  river,  when  the  British  were  blockading 
the  St.  Lawrence  with  hundreds  of  their  boats  and  ships. 
Owing  to  the  height  and  steepness   of   the   precipice, 
the  fifst  sentinel  posted  on  the  plain  was  considerably 
above  the  hollow  or  ravine,  and  thertlore  the  last  sen- 
tinel to  hail  the  British  as  they  floated  down  the  cur- 
rent*    The  answers  he  received  not  being  altogether 
satisfactory,  he  called  out,  ^^Pourquois  est  ce  que  vous 
ns  parlez  plus  haut  ?"  (why  dont  you  speak  louder?) — 
The  answer  he  received  was,  "Tais  toi,  nous  serons  cn- 
tendus.^'  (Hush,  we  shall  beoverheard  and  discovered.) 
As  the  British  had  possession  of  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river  this  answer  also  deceived  this  sentinel,  and  Wolf 
papsed  and  landed  his  troops  on  a  small  footing  of  sand 
washed  there  by  the  water  which  sometimes  run  down 
the  ravine,  and  then  crawled  up  the  precipice  by  cling- 
mg  to  the  angles  of  rocks,  roots,  Stc. 


'    H 


'HP 

I:;!: 
I  J 


t 

i 


U' 


'I 


I 


>  ii 


:i 


tu 


WOLF*B  JlONXmtJft. 


The  great  battle  took  place  within  about  three  quar* 
ten  oi  a  mile  of  the  citadel.  Here  is  a  small  hollow 
br  basin,  into  which  a  portion  of  the  British  were  driv- 
en in  confusion,  and  here  Wolf,  in  restoring  order,  lost 
his  llife,  and  about  the  same  time  Montcalm j  on  the  ex- 
treme fight  of  the  French  line,  and  nearer  the  upjpef 
city  also  fell,  \Vhile  gallantly  hurling  his  countrymen 
on  the  British  invader.  In  the  hollow  or  basin  on  the 
spot  where  Wolf  fell,  there  is  a  monument ;  this  con- 
sists of  a  round  granite  shafl,  about  15  feet  high,  sup^ 
ported  by  a  pedestal  about  2  leet  high  and  4  feet  square ; 
the  iron  railing  which  formerly  protected  it  is  now  bro- 
ken down,  and  the  monument  very  much  defaced ;  the 
icorners  being  knocked  off  no  doubt  by  travellers,  and 
the  pieces  carried  away.  It  was  with  considerable 
difficulty  that  I  knocked  off  a  small  piece  of  this  mon- 
ument, so  tattered  and  broken  are  the  corners.  It  ap*- 
peared  somewhat  strange  to  me,  to  find  so  handsome  a 
monument  as  this  must  have  been,  in  such  a  ruinous 
and  disfigured  condition  ;  it  too  erected  to  commemo- 
rate to  succeeding  generations  the  great  altar  on  which 
was  offered  the  heroic  Wolf;  the  costliest  sacrifice  that 
Great  Britain  had  to  offer. 

This  memorable  heio;ht  is  used  as  a  common  bv  the 
city.  It  is  however  not  enclosed,  but  just  left  careless* 
ly  lying  out,  on  which  stock  are  running  at  large.  A-t 
•d  distance  of  about  a  mile  from  the  citadel,  it  yet  re- 
mains a  forest ;  between  this  and  the  city  I  saw  a  troop 
of  boys  engaged  in  drawing  firewood  with  teams  of 
dogs-  From  three  to  four  large  and  beautiful  dogs  were 
harnessed  in  a  small  wagon  made  for  the  purpose;  the 


1 


>1l 


GOVERNOR'S  GAUDty. 


5i:j 


hree  quar- 
ill   hollow 
were  driv- 
order,  lost 
on  the  ex- 
the  uppei 
ountryraea 
asin  on  the 
this  con- 
high,  8Up^ 
eet  square ; 
is  now  bro- 
?faced;  the 
ellers,  and 
onsiderable 
'this  mon- 
srs.     It  ap*- 
landsome  a 
a  ruinous 
commemo- 
ir  on  which 
Lcrifice  that 

non  bv  the 
;ft  careless- 

:  large.  A^ 
,  it  yet  re- 
law  a  troop 
;h  teams  of 
Idogs  werfi 
jrposej  the 


number  of  teams  and  the  noise  of  the  French  boys  as 
they  passed  slowly  up  the  gentle  sloping  height,  was  a 
novelty  which  was  to  me  for  a  few  minutes  interest- 
ing. It  surprised  me  to  see  the  quantity  of  wood  three 
or  four  of  these  dop-s  could  draw  ;  there  beino;  three  or 
four  times  as  much  as  a  strong  man  could  possibly  pile 
and  haul  on  a  common  wheel-barrow. 

We  now  returned  to  the  upper  city,  and  visited  the 
Governor's  Garden.  Here  are  buried  Wolf  and  Mont- 
calm, in  one  grave  ;  though  one  the  commander-in-chief 
of  the  British,  and  the  other  of  the  French  armies.  0- 
ver  this  grave  is  erected  a  splendid  marble  monument, 
about  25  feet  high.'  The  pedestal  on  which  it  stands  is 
about  10  feet  square  and  2  feet  high,  and  for  12  feet 
up  the  monument  is  square,  having  a  face  of  about  6 
feet.  On  the  top  of  this  is  an  obelisk  terminating  in  a 
point.  The  north  face  of  the  monument  contains  the 
inscriptions  of  Montcalm  and  the  south  face  those  of 
Wolf;  the  heroes  lying  with  their  feet  to  the  west  in- 
stead of  the  east.  This  garden  contains  a  choice  selec- 
tion of  shrubbery,  all  well  arranged,  which  were  in  the 
state  of  budding ;  and  no  doubt  when  in  flower  they 
make  quite  a  beautiful  appearance.  A  lofly,  strong 
and  handsome  iron  fpnce  encloses  the  garden. 


t,!tM 


i!l 


wMl 


■'^m 


i  ' 


216  CATjlUDflAL. 

C  11  A  P  T  E  R    X  V  1 II . 

Cathedral — Wealth  of  the  Catholic  Church — Seminary  Chapel 
—Romanism — Catholic  Processions — Remark-Indian  Lorette 
find  Nunnery — Grand  Battery — Death  of  Montgomery — San- 
tau  Matelot — Historical  Sketch — Surrender  of  the  Americans 
— Anecdotes  of  the  French — Theatres. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  large,  strong  stone  building,  the 
walls  of  which  present  no  beauty.  The  first  object 
that  presents  itself  on  entering  the  cathedral  is  the  al- 
tar; it  is  made  of  highly  wrought  and  highly  polished 
silver,  and  covered  with  a  profusion  of  ornaments  of 
great  value.  On  each  side  of  this  altar  runs  a  balus- 
trade, enclosing  a  space  of  about  six  feet  wide,  of  con- 
siderable length  and  about  four  feet  high  ;  the  handrail 
from  six  to  eight  inches  wide  ;  on  the  top  of  this  hand- 
rail at  a  distance  of  about  six  feet  apart,  are  images  of 
saints,  beautifully  wrought  and  about  eighteen  inches 
high.  As  you  walk  through  the  building,  on  eithtr 
side  there  are  different  apartments,  all  filled  from  the 
floor  to  the  ceiling  with  paintings,  statues,  vases,  huge 
candlesticks,  waiters,  and  a  thousand  other  articles  of 
great  value.  I  learned  from  m}^  guide,  who  was  him- 
self a  Catholic,  that  this  was  the  every  day  display  of 
articles  of  least  value  ;  the  more  costly  being  stored  a- 
way  in  chests  and  closets.  It  would  be  the  wildest  and 
niost  random  conjecture  to  Uttempt  an  estimate  of  the 
amount  of  precious  metals  thus  withdrawn  by  the  Cath- 
olic Church  from  the  useful  purposes  of  the  currency 
of  the  world,  and  wasted  in  what  may  be  called  barba- 
ric ornaments,  as  incompatible  with  good  taste  as  (hey 


'iMim 


SEMINARY  CHaPCL. 


217 


1 

1 


are  with  the  humility  which  was  the  moat  striking  fea- 
ture in  the  character  of  the  founder  of  our  rcHfiion  ; 
whose  chosen  instruments  were  the  low  and  humble, 
and  who  himself  regarded  as  the  highe^it  evidence  of 
his  divine  mission,  the  iaot  that  to  the  poor  the  gospel 
was  [)reached. 

The  Seminary  Chapel,  under  the  direction  of  the  Cath- 
olics, is  a  larg6  stone  structure.  On  entering,  I  found 
it  as  well  as  the  Cathedral,  to  be  filled  with  paintings, 
statues,  vases,  candlesticks,  &,c.  This  institution  has  a 
number  of  pupils-.  We  entered  during  the  intermission, 
about  I  o'clock  ;  in  about  an  hour  the  pupils  commen- 
ced entering  the  Chapel  at  intervals  of  about  half  a  min- 
ute between  the  entering  of  each  ;  and  the  moment  they 
arrived  within  the  door  they  bowed  to  the  cross  and 
kneeled,  and  for  a  moment  seemed  to  be  engaged  in 
prayer.  The  cross  was  situated  at  the  west  end  of  the 
Chapel :  on  it  was  nailed  a  large  gilt  statue  represent- 
ing Christ  upon  the  cross. 

The  native  population  of  Lower  Canada  being  Ro- 
man Catholic,  therefore  in  Quebec  the  frequent  ring- 
ing of  bells  every  day   is  peculiar.     The   number  of 
priests  and  monks  in  the  city  is  astonishing.     They  are 
known  by  their  dress,  and  you  will  meet  one  or  two  of 
them  in  every  street  iti  Quebec,  go  what  course  you 
will.     Such  a  numerous  priesthood  of  the  kind,  mubt 
hold  a  stroDji:,  and  ia  some  respects  an  unfavorable  in- 
fliuence  over  the  people.     Where  llomanism  holds  the 
ascendancy,  I  believe  general  education  is  never  pro- 
moted. This  misfortune  is  very  generally  seen  in  Cana- 
da, lor  the  coinnion  r!u<-,  hiivc  \  erv  Uttlr  or  no  education 
10 


)  ■; 


■J'!" 


)         -iW    'I 


;^i 


.i" 


Vi 


CIS 


CATrtOLic  rRoce^sfof^i/ 


I     :ili 


"^vbatever.  Like  all  Catholic  regions,  religious  holy- 
days  and  processions  are  numerous  in  Quebec  :  some  ol 
which  are  attended  by  the  greater  part  of  the  elergy  oi 
llie  province,  with  the  distinctive  banners  of  their  or- 
der, and  their  own  peculiar  dress.  The  train  may  be 
seen  leaving  the  Cathedral  a  little  before  sunset ;  the 
priests  and  friars  walking  in  file  on  each  side  of  the 
street,  with  huge  lighted  wax  tapers  in  their  hands,  and 
chanting  as  they  follow  the  statues  which  are  carried 
before  them  at  equal  distances  in  the  procession.  The 
statues  or  images  are  generally  of  a  large  size,  and  rep- 
resent the  various  sufferings  of  the  Saviour,  until  he  is 
laid  in  the  sepulchre  j  which  is  a  splendid  canopy,  tas- 
selated  with  gold,  having  a  figure  large  s»  life  stretch- 
ed beneath  them ;  the  rear  is  generally  brought  up  by 
persons  covered  in  white  or  black  garments,  with  eye- 
holes to  see  through;  dragging  at  their  feet  chains  of 
different  lengths  and  diYnensions.  This  is  a  penance 
which  these  poor  victims  of  c^dulity  inflict  upon  them- 
selves for  the  commission  of  somfe  offence,  or  the  ful- 
filment of  a  vow  thev  had  made  in  the  time  of  afflic- 
tion.  It  is  not  unfrequent  to  see  the  ankles  of  some  of 
these  persons  very  much  lacerated  and  bleeding  by 
the  weight  of  the  chains  they  drag  behind  them.  After 
traversing  several  streets,  the  procession  returns  to  the 
church  from  whence  it  came  out. 

Some  persons  may  call  all  this  perfect  mummery  ; 
but  I  trust  that  I  am  neither  so  bigoted  nor  prejudiced 
as  to  believe  that  there  is  any  Christia^^'  *  r.urch,  w;iat- 
ever  may  be  its  forms  of  faith  or  worship,  which  doe3 
;iot  number  amongst  its  members  men  as  good  and  vir- 


■I 


MON  rooMKilv's  ASSAULT  UPON  C^LEUKC. 


219 


3US  holy- 
; :  some  o< 
J  elergy  oi 
their  or- 
n  may  be 
nwet ;  the 
le  of  the 
lands,  and 
re  carried 
ion.  The 
►,  and  rep- 
until  he  is 
inopy,  tas- 
'e  stretch- 
ght  up  by 
with  eye- 
chains  of 

penance 
pon  them- 
>r  the  ful- 

of  afflic- 
of  some  of 
eding  by 
m.  After 
urns  to  the 

lummery ; 
prejudiced 
rch,  waat- 
k^hich  doe3 
kI  and  \ir- 


t 


taous,  as  those  whose  religious  opinions  conform  to  my 
own.  I  quarrel  with  no  man  for  his  religious  opinions, 
but  I  have  a  right  to  discuss  them,  and  to  describe  the 
rites  and  ceremonies  as  they  are  displayed  to  the  gaze 
of  all.  No  one  I  presume  can  doubt  the  sincerity  of 
the  professors  of  a  religion,  so  many  heroic  martyrs  of 
which  have  perished  at  the  stake,  and  which  for  so  long 
a  time  was  the  only  Christian  church,  and  even  now 
can  boast  of  a  larger  number  than  all  other  Christian 
sects  united.  I  believe  that  they  are  at  least  as  sincere 
in  the  great  cardinal  principles  of  their  faith  as  the 
protestants  are,  that  is,  the  great  body  of  the  church. 
This  much  however  cannot  be  said  of  the  priests. 

The  next  objects  worthy  of  the  stranger's  notice  are 
the  Indian  Lorette  and  Nunnerv.  The  latter  contains 
a  number  of  nuns.  It  appears  truly  astonishing  that  in- 
telligent persons  should  thus  seclude  themselves  from 
their  friends,  society  and  the  world,  to  linger  out  their 
days  in  such  a  manner.  Many  of  these  women  have 
the  appearance  of  being  once  handsome,  gay  and  intel- 
ligent. The  building  they  occupy  is  about  150  feet 
long  and  30  feet  wide,  constructed  of  a  species  of  grey 
•tone,  two  stories  high,  with  very  small  windows. 

I  now  made  my  way  to  the  Grand  Battery,  in  th'e 
lower  city ;  which  fortification  forms  a  portion  of  the 
defence  of  the  lower  city  ;  which  battery,  with  many 
of  its  auxiliaries,  can  be  if  necessary,  aided  by  the  north 
batteries  of  the  citadel,  by  ranging  over  the  upper  and 
lower  cities.  Near  this  place  are  the  redoubts  assault* 
ed  by  Gens.  Montgomery  and  Arnold  during  the  revo- 
lution.    The  one  assaulted  by  Montgomery  was  near 


m 


7n 


M 


:M« 


lU 


220 


santau  matklot. 


1 

f 

1 

i 
1 

i 

i 

1 

i 

, 

the  St.  Lawrence,  where  on  the   31st   of  December, 
1775,  after  roundii^^  the  promontory  or  Cape  Diamond, 
they  stumblei  upi:\  \vax^  misses  of  ice  thrown  up  by 
the  river,  wliich  hh  soldiers  had  to   remove   amidst  a 
terrible  storm  of  snow,  before  he  couhl  advance  upon 
the  redoubt ;  when  with  his  sword  waving  over  his  head 
he  rushed  forward,  shouting  his  heroes  to  the  charge, 
and  rushing  up  to  the  very  mouths  of  the  cannon,  when 
they  opened  in  their  very  faces;  and  when  the  smoke 
lilted,  there  lay  the  lifeless  form  of  the  noble  Montgom- 
ery almost  under  the  wheels  of  the  artillery.  The  col- 
umn no  longer  having  a  gallant   leader   at    its    head, 
"broke  and  lied.     The  distinguished  aid  Capt.  M'Pher- 
son,  with  Capt.  Cheeseman,  in  attempting  to  bear  olf 
their  lifeless  General,  lost  their  lives,  after  which  young 
Burr, -i.erwards  Vice  President  of  the  United  States, 
lifted  the  body  on  his  shoulders  and  endeavored  to  bear 
it  off;  but  was  compelled  to  abandon  it  to  the  enemy. 
The  storm  still  raged  in  all  its  fury,  and  all  along  the 
way  where  the  column  had  passed,  were  strewn  corps- 
es }  many  of  them  now  became  mere  hillocks  of  snow  ; 
ihe  rapidly  falling  flakes  had  blotted  out  the  stain  of 
blood,  and  already  wrapped  a  shroud  around  the  brave 
Idead.    •  '•    ■■' 

Farther  west  was  situated  the  place  called  Santau 
Matelot,  which  Gen.  Arnold  attempted  to  storm.  Up 
to  this  he  moved  with  aii  intrepid  step,  cheering  on  his 
men,  when  a  musket-ball  struck  his  leg*,  shattering 
the  bone  ;  he  fell  forward  in  the  snow  ;  then  by  a  strong 
effort  rose  again,  and  endeavored  still  to  press  on ;  and 
it  is  said  it  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  he  could  be 


I 


AXKCDOTK-^  or  TUl-:  FKLNCJi. 


ecember, 
Diamond, 
'11  up  bv 

amiilst  a 
nee  upon 
r  his  head 
e  charge, 
ion,  when 
he  smoke 
^lontfi-om- 

The  col- 
its  head, 
.  M'Pher- 
0  bear  off 
ich  young 
ed  States, 
•ed  to  bear 
le  enemy, 
ilong  the 
wn  corps- 

of  snow ; 
e  stain  of 

the  brave 

ed  Santau 
orm.  Up 
ring  on  his 
shattering 
Dy  a  strong 
ss  on ;  and 
c  could  be 


per 


juaded  to  be  carried  to   the    rear.     The   command 


M 


m 


then  devolved  on  Morgan,  who  fell  with  such  terrible 
fury  on  thi*  bittery,  that  iUv  ih-iti:ih  fiod,  leaving  it  in 
his  possession.  Daylight  had  not  yet  dawned,  nothing 
had  been  heard  from  Montgomery  ;  and  the  snuw  kept 
falling  in  an  overwlielming  shower  and  blowing  furi- 
ouslv  in  the  soldi^»^>5  faces;  cin<;e  by  was  a  second  bar- 
rier,  protected  by  a  battery,  which  opened  upon  him. 
the  moment  they  turned  the  angle  of  the  street.  This 
sallinr^  fire  cut  them  down  like  grass  :  they  fled  into 
the  houses  for  shelter,  leaving  the  intrepid  Morgan  in 
the  street  shouting  to  them  to  return  ;  but  all  his  words 
and  p-^rsonal  daring  could  not  revive  their  courage  ; 
and  his  brave  heart  sunk  within  him,  when  compelled 
to  order  a  retreat  to  be  sounded.  }3ut  his  troops,  now 
thorou3:hlv  disheartened,  would  not  venture  out  asrain 
into  the  deadly  fire,  even  to  retreat ;  and  Morgan  soon 
found  himself  surrounded  by  the  enemy  and  compelled 
to  surrender. 

After  viewing  from  Santau  Matelot  the  surrounding 
scenery,  including  the  citadel  and  fortifications  crown- 
ing the  precipitous  heights  which  overhang  the  St. 
Lawrence,  we  repaired  to  the  harbour,  where  the  broad 
and  deep  river  was  enlivened  by  a  variety  of  shipping. 
While  engaged  in  examining  some  of  the  splendid  steam- 
ers, we  were  told  some  very  amusing  anecdotes  by  the 
British,  of  the  superstitious  horror  of  the  old  Canadians 
at  the  new  inventions  and  innovations  of  the  anglo-A- 
mericans;  that  they  beheld  the  first  steamers  with  such 
extreme  jealousy  as  to  have  exclaimed,  when  they  saw 
them  ascend  the  St.  Lawrence,  ^LMais  croyez  vouz  que 


^ 


■H'-, 


./fcl 


■.u-Wit 


t-M 


m 


W^ 


m 


f 


T  II  K  A  T  n  K  ^  . 


I 


le  bon  Dieu  perrmttra  tout  c«/«."  The  traveller  during 
his  tour  through  Lower  Canada,  may  frequently  hear 
anecdotes  told  on  the  French  Canadians  by  the  British 
settlers,  which  are  SDmetimes  accompanied  with  such 
bitter  sarcasm,  as  to  draw  the  mind  of  the  stranger  to 
the  old  story  of  the  American,  who  siid  that  if  the  U- 
nited  Slates  ever  got  possession  of  Canada,  they  would 
soon  improve  the  French  off  the  face  of  the  earth.  The 
late  Lord  Sydenham  has  been  viewed  by  the  French 
party  with  great  jealousy,  in  this  respect ;  they  speak 
as  if  they  really  believed  him  capable  of  conceiving  and 
executing  such  a  project.  This  is  a  delusion  which  is 
no  doubt  strengthened  by  the  British  settl  rs,  who  praise 
his  zeal,  habits  of  business,  and  devotedneds  to  the  in- 
terests of  Canada;  and  so  ultra  are  some  of  his  admi- 
rers, that  one  of  them,  who  being  so  deeply  imbued 
with  the  spirit  of  his  policy,  as  to  declare  in  the  pres- 
ence of  the  French  party,  "we  shall  never  make  any 
thing  of  Canada  until  we  ang-ucize  and  protestantize 
it ;"  at  which  declaration,  the  lips  of  the  French  Cath- 
olics could  be  seen  quivering  with  rage,  and  an  old 
grey-headed  Frence  seigneur  immediately  rejoined 
with  bitterness,  "had  you  not  better  finish  Ireland  first?" 
The  Theatres  of  Quebec,  though  on  rather  a  small 
scale,  attract  attention.  The  buildings  are  in  no  wise 
distinguished  for  the  beauty  of  their  agriculture  ;  they 
are  however  filled  nightly  to  overflowing.  Plays  and 
performances  are  generally  in  the  French  language, 
though  much  inferior  to  those  of  Montreal.  The  French 
theatre  is  considerably  patronized  by  the  English  au- 
thorities of  the  city,  and  is  of  course  the  favorite  of  all 


T  n  E  A  T  R  K  ^  . 


2*23 


ler  during 
;ntly  hear 
he  British 
i\ith  such 
ranger  to 

if  the  U- 
ley  would 
arth.  The 
le  French 
they  speak 
eivingand 
1  which  is 
who  praise 

to  the  in- 

his  admi- 
\y  imbued 
n  the  pres- 
make  any 
•otestantize 
ench  Cath- 
ind  an  old 
y  rejoined 
jland  first?" 
tier  a  small 

in  no  wise 
Iture  ;  they 

Plays  and 
I  language, 
rhe  French 
English  au- 
vorite  of  all 


I 


those  of  any  pretensions  to  elegance  or  fashion.  The 
French  theatre  offers  considerable  induc^'menta  >  its 
patrons,  although  its  performers  arc  by  no  means  the 
most  finished  members  of  the  corps  dramatique  of  France. 
After  visiting  the  principal  ol^ects  of  interest  on  the 
far-famed  rock  of  Quebec,  we  made  arrano;ements  for 
an  excursion  to  the  countiy,  whose  sparkling  waters 
and  blue  forests  had  somewhat  an  inviting  appearance 
from  the  heights,  though  not  presenting  the  grandeur 
they  would  in  winter,  when  the  evergreen  and  ever- 
silent  woodland  is  clothed  with  white  drapery,  and  the 
fine  boughs  tipped  with  icicles  which  image  forth  the 
realmsofth«  great  frost-king,  presenting  in  the  sun- 
light, fairy  shadows  dancing  across  the  chrystal  surface, 
which  is  not  diminished  even  by  night  in  grandeur,  as 
it  is  equally  imposing  to  view  the  innumerable  stars 
trembling  m  the  cold  clear  firmament,  and  the  moon- 
light sparkling  upon  the  crusted  snow  and  white  dra- 
pery of  tjie  forest- 


f! 


ir  , 

*  :f, 


Ifi    f>  J 


.•I 


■A{ 


to' 

i! 


(i 


-.  :  , .    ■. 


^ 


£1 


i'! 


si 


^21 


nX'JTR.i»ION   TO  TlIU  COfNTKr 


C  H  A  P  T  K  U    XIX. 


i!     I 


Mil 


Excursion  to  th(»  connlry — Frpnrh  Poasnnts — T.akos — Products 
of  the  country — Fall-*  of  . Montmorency — Factoriei — Siil>X«m« 
nconery — IJeauport — St.  iMiclmol — Return  t  •  Q  lebec — Indi- 
cations of  Winter — Departure  of  tlie  fleet— Canadian  winter — 
Streets  of  Qiiobec — Dress  in  winter — !  i^'ich  rnro5i:iQr.e')e;  — 
Departure — CIia!idier  Falls — IlistorienI  Sket«'l) — Wild  and 
Bublimo  clriracter  of  tlio  Fall^— Arriv  al  at  Three  Ilivers^ — 
Falls  of  Maskinontje — Jacques  Carlier  Kiver — Return  to  Mon- 
ireiil — Politene:i*»  of  iho  French — Theatre — Depajtiurc — Dis- 
tant view  of  Montreal — Uoaiities  of  the  St.  Lawrence — La 
Prairie — Barracks — Aspect  of  the  coinitry — St.  John — Ilkitor- 
ical  sketch — Swallows — Steamer  Burlington. 

I  now  left  tho  city  of  Quebec  for  the  country,  which 
i  found  cold,  but  fertile  and  well  watered.  The  mass 
of  the  population  are  however  settled  in  the  valley  of 
the  St.  Lawrence.  The  principal  public  roads  through 
the  country  are  generally  M'Adamised,  which  in  many 
places  were  heaving  up,  caused  by  the  action  of  the 
frost.  The  population  are  chiefly  of  French  origin  ; 
speak  the  French  language ;  are  a  contented,  gay,  harm- 
less people,  easy  and  courteous  in  their  manners,  bjt 
very  ignorant,  t\nv  ol  them  being  able  to  read  and  write, 
as  education  is  much  neglected.  The  native  French 
Canadians  are  called  hahitans  ;  they  are  stroQi^lv  at- 
tached  to  their  religion,  which  is  Catholic;  they  are 
also  strongly  attached  to  the  land  of  their  birth  ;  though 
cold,  rugged  and  desperate  as  are  the  regions  of  Cana- 
da, the}-'  contend  there  is  no  such  a  place  on  earth  ;  a 
part  of  this  delusion  is  of  course  to  be  attributed  to  their 
ignorance.  Yet  dreary,  gloomy  and  disheartening  as 
sounds  the  name  of  Lower  Canada  to  the  people  of  Yir- 


TALUS  or  .NfONTMURr.M'V. 


no*; 


ginia,  it  pos.scssrs  at  l(»a.st  some  bt»autios,  after  the  groat 
mantle  of  snow  and  ico,  which  onvclopt's  hrr  for  six 
months  in  the  year  have  [)assal  away.  These  beauties 
consist  chiefly  in  her  waters,  such  as  lake  Calvaire,  lake 
St.  Charles  and  lake  Beauport,  with  many  beautiful 
sn)a\  streams  and  rivers  with  handsome  cascades  and 
water-falls.  These  lakes  are  celebrated  for  fine  trout, 
and  some  of  the  rivers  for  excellent  salmon. 

The  country  is  very  highly  cultivated,  chiefly  in  small 
farms,  which  produce  some  wheat,  but  the  principal 
products  are  corn  and  such  other  grains  common  to  the 
northern  parts  oi  the  United  States.  Grain  however, 
is  not  produced  in  sufficient  quantities  for  exportation. 
The  chief  exports  arc  timber,  furs,  pot  and  pearl  ashes. 
Below  the  river  Montmorency  there  are  very  few  set- 
tlements, except  small  fishing  villages  along  the  St. 
Lawrence ;  as  the  province  becomes  still  more  rugged, 
cold  and  sterile,  which  is  said  rapidly  to  increase  in  a 
north  and  northeastern  direction,  and  of  course  becomes 
^nfit  for  the  ajbpde  of  man. 

On  my  way  back  to  Quebec,  "f  visited  the  Falls  of 
Montmorency.  This  is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  and  9  miles  below  Quebec.—^ 
The  water  is  of  a  blackish  color,  being  about  the  color 
of  common  ley.  It  rises  in  a  swampy  section  of  coun- 
try ;  its  so'jrce  being  a  great  pond,  at  a  very  consider- 
able distance  north  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  in  iti 
course  to  the  falls  it  is  joined  by  numerous  streamsj 
which  increase  it  to  a  considerable  river,  which  at  th6 
falls  shoots  in  a  sheet  over  a  vast  precipice  244  ieet 
high.  At  about  30  yards  above  the  verge  of  the  pre- 
10* 


J' 


111 


^l.; 


I!'  ' 


^il 


h) 


f 


* 


i 

i 

■  •; 

i;i 

1 

■Mfr 

■  ?■ 

1 

■1 

'l':i!!i 


,S 


'i 


'lli 


TAM.^  or   MoN'rMOUK.N'CY. 


ciplce,  the  water  is  forced  into  a  narrow  channel  of  not 
more  than  100  feet  wide,  imnnediately  below  which  it 
falls  about  5  feet  perpendicular,  and  is  parted  by  a 
large  rock,  below  which  it  again  unites,  and  immedi- 
ately falls  over  an  awful  precipice  of  240  feet  perpen- 
dicular. The  right  bank  of  the  river  is  cxpoi^d  to  the 
north,  and  owing  to  its  great  height,  the  sun  never 
reaches  the  base  of  the  precipice  ;  therefore  the  base 
was  covered  with  ice  for  6  or  8  feet  in  height,  caused 
by  the  freezing  of  the  mist  which  fell  against  the  bank 
as  it  arose  from  the  falls,  although  in  the  month  of  June. 
The  banks  on  each  side  are  smooth  and  precipitous ; 
their  summits  are  crowned  with  trees.  From  the  lit- 
tle fall  of  5  feet,  there  is  hewn  out  of  the  side  of  the 
awful  precipice  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  a  channel 
to  convey  water  for  the  purpose  of  propelling  some 
mills  and  other  factories,  belonging  to  a  Mr.  Patterson, 
which  are  situated  at  about  300  yards  distance,  which 
are  perched  high  up  on  an  awful  verge  on  the  bank  of 
the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  falls  of  Niagara,  are  celebrated  throughout  the 
civilized  world  as  one  of  tbe  grandest  and  most  sub- 
lime spectacles  to  be  found  in  the  universe.  Among 
fells  o4*  a  secondary  character,  the  falls  of  Montraoren- 
ey  deserve  notice ;  and  although  the  scenery  around 
them  is  by  no  means  as  impressive  as  Niagara,  yet  the 
true  lover  of  nature — he  who  looks  with  the  eye  of  an 
enthusiast  upon  the  sublime  and  beautiful,  as  it  came 
from  the  hand  of  the  creator,  can  spend  many  an  hour 
of  pleasure  and  delight,  in  watching  the  Montmorency 
lis  it  comes  rushing  and  thundering  down  the  high  pre- 


'i 


•4 


IXDICXTIONS  OF   WlXTEH. 


tft 


lel  ol'not 

which  it 

ted  by  a 

immedi- 

t  perpen- 

3d  to  the 

un  never 

the  base 

it,  caused 

;  the  bank 

1  of  June. 

icipitous ; 

m  the  lit- 

ide  of  the 

a  channel 

ling  some 

Patterson, 

:e,  which 

le  bank  of 

ghout  the 
most  sub- 
Among 
mtmoren- 
y  around 
El,  yet  the 
eye  of  an 
J  it  came 
f  an  hour 
itmorency 
high  pre- 


•4 


cipice,  sending  forth  its  rainbows  of  light  spray,  in  to* 
ken  of  joy  that  the  rough  way  is  passed  over,  and  that 
its  waters  may  now  mingle  with  the  mighty  billows  of 
the  majestic  St.  Lawrence,  and  roll  on  in  more  peace 
^nd  quiet,  in  awful  grandeur,  to  mingle  with  th-e  foam- 
ing surges  of  the  ocean> 

The  village  of  Beauport  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
distant  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  about  3  miles  be- 
low Quebec,  Near  it  a  small  streamlet  flow  j  in  a  nar- 
row ravine  about  110  feet  deep,  partly  excavated  in 
the  drift,  which  had  filled  up  a  more  ancient  hollovir  in 
the  Silurian  strata.  By  examining  the  cliff  immediate- 
ly below  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Ryland,  and  again  a  few 
hundred  yards  to  the  west,  wher«  low-er  beds  were  laid 
open  by  the  river,  and  then  ascending  to  the  higher 
grounds  northwards  and  towards  a  place  called  St.  Mi- 
chael, I  obtained  several  pebbles  and  shells  which  my 
curiosity  induced  me  to  save. 

After  my  return  to  Quebec,  I  received  from  my  kind 
host  Mr.  Russell,  of  the  Albion  Hotel,  much  informa- 
tion concerning  Canada,  among  other  things  the  follow- 
ing: The  indications  of  the  approaching  winter,  is  ob- 
served by  the  delicate  and  vaporious  hues  of  the  long 
twilights  of  July ;  are  followed  in  October  by  dark 
nights  and  gloomy  days  ;  the  leaves  have  all  withered, 
the  air  is  sharp,  the  sk}''  looks  grey  and  dull  -,  the  north- 
west winds  begin  their  wailing  accents  ;  the  St.  Law- 
rence joins  in  with  mournful  murmurs,  and  all  nature 
■ighs  with  seeming  sadness,  over  the  early  grave  of  sum- 
mer ;  clouds  of  dust  sweep  through  the  streets,  and  pen- 
etrate the  crevices  of  every  door  and  window ;  colds 


m 


im 


•elf. I  : , 

,'8l'  If?       1 


hM 


22S 


QUEIJL't;  l.V  WINlTEit* 


I- 


Hi 


and  asthmas  prevail ;  strangers  prepare  to  leave  ;  house-- 
keepers  are  engaged  in  putting  in  double  window  sash- 
i's,  and  lining  the  door  with  felt :  and  every  one  who 
is  able  makes  every  preparation  for  the  approaching 
winter. 

To  a  southern  stranger,  it  is  impossible  to  conceive 
of  a  more  disagreeable  climate.     Frost  begins  about  the 
15th  ol  September,  and  lasts  until  the  10th  or  15th  of 
May.     About  the  first  of  October,  the  fierce  north  wind 
begins,  accompanied  with   whirling  flurries  of  snow, 
which  rolls  on  the  waves  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  dash- 
es them  with  great  force  against  the   banks.     It  is  at 
this  dreary  season,  that  the  last  steamer  takes  its  depar- 
ture lor  another  land.     The  last  boat !  How  many  anx- 
ious feelings  are  excited  in  the  bosom  of  the  resident, 
at  this  announcement !     How  many  assemble  on  the 
pier  that  day,  to  gaze  upon  the  envied  few,  who  are  to 
escape  before  the  great  portals  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are 
locked  with  ice,  and  when  the  last  adieu  is  waved,  and 
the  lingering  crowd  disperse,  how  do  the  thoughts  of 
all  revert  to  other  scenes !     To  those  who  live  in  Can- 
ada who  have  lived  elsewhere,  there  appears  something 
exceedingly  sad  in  the  aspect  of  the  Canadian  autumn, 
which  however  cannot  be  discovered  in  native-born 
citizens. 

About  the  first  of  November,  the  cold  increases  in  se- 
verity ;  the  water  is  congealed  to  the  consistency  of 
jelly,  and  the  snow  freezes  as  it  falls.  Still  the  mercu- 
ry descends,  and  toward  the  latter  part  of  the  month, 
the  St.  Lawrence  is  covered  with  soUd  ice.  The  French 
Canadian  rejoices  when  the  snow  is  deep  and  hard  ; 


CANADIAN   WINTER, 


.^tf  ^  1/ 


eases  in  se- 


i 


and  as  soon  as  the  police  will  permit  liim  to  venture 
upon  the  ice-bound  river,  he  launches  forth  upon  his 
sleio^h,  and  drives  at  full  speed  along  the  paths  which 
are  marked  out :  boats  rigged  with  sails,  and  propelled 
by  the  wind,  glide  swiftly  up  and  down  on  the  ice, 
and  when  not  too  cold,  a  few  skaters  appear  and  prac- 
tice the  sport  of  the  winter.  When  these  melancholy 
days  have  come,  the  Canadian  breakfasts  at  about  sev- 
en o'clock;  then  piercing  with  his  eye  the  double  glas- 
ses of  his  windows  and  the  drowsy  obscurity  of  day,  he 
discovers  snow  enough  to  la^  for  months.  After  the 
sun  is  fairly  up,  he  wraps  about  him,  the  Englishman 
his  cloak,  and  the  Frenchman  his  pelisse  lined  with 
fur;  out  he  goes  into  the  clear,  cracking  cold  of  a  Ca- 
nadian winter  morning ;  he  finds  the  pavements  nicely- 
swept,  and  may  walk  them  in  safety,  as  the  sidewalks  in 
all  the  principal  streets  are  cleared  of  snow  and  ice, 
and  the  snow  in  the  streets  kept  beat  down  or  in  part 
removed,  so  as  to  be  passable  for  sleighs. 

As  the  season  advances,  some  bright  days  bring  out 
into  the  streets,  crowds  of  the  population.  The  peas- 
antry of  the  surrounding  country  flock  to  the  city  with 
their  sleighs  and  horses,  and  the  animation  and  variety 
of  the  multitude,  who  ride  or  walk  upon  the  streets  as 
well  as  on  the  ice  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  surpasses  any 
thing  of  the  kind  to  be  seen  on  the  continent.  All  this 
multitude  are  wrapped  in  fur  from  the  most  common 
to  tlie  most  costly  kind  ;  some  of  whom  occupy  the  side 
walks ;  while  the  carriage-way  is  completely  filled  with 
sleighs,  from  the  dashing  turn-out  of  the  English  author- 
ities, to  the  hwroble  sleigh  of  the  Frencli  peasant.  They 


^^:  ,!:<l 


? 


&i 


iifS 


m 


; 


230 


fALLS  01'  ciiAunifiRi:. 


all  drive  with  great  rapidity,  and  yet  an  accident  sel- 
dom occurs. 

I  now  prepared  to  leave  Quebec,  and  my  kind  host 
Mr,  Russell,  whom  I  found  to  be  a  man  of  wealth,  and 
among  his  possessions  are  two  of  the  largest  and  most 
popular  hotels  in  the  city.  He  is  a  host  who  uses  ev- 
ery exertion  to  accommodate  a  guest,  in  a  neat  but  plain 
manner ;  and  I  found  him  in  every  way  an  accommo- 
dating man,  and  on  leaving  him,  he  accommodated  me 
with  a  charge  of  one  dollar  per  meal,  during  my  stay 
with  him.  I  repaired  to  the  wharf  and  took  passage 
on  board  the  steamer  Lord  Sydenham,  the  same  boat 
which  first  landed  me,  and  left  the  memorable  city  of 
Quebec,  which  I  long  had  a  curiosity  of  seeing,  and 
sailed  up  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  mouth  of  the  Chau- 
diere  river,  from  which  I  travelled  a  short  distance  up 
that  river  to  the  Chaudiere  Falls,  which  are  a  delight- 
ful curiosity.  The  fall  is  of  considerable  height,  and 
above  which  are  long  rapids.  It  was  this  fall  that  came 
very  near  destroying  Gen.  Arnold  and  his  army,  in  his 
expedition  against  Quebec.  In  his  great  eagerness  to 
reach  Quebec,  he  sailed  down  this  river  with  his  little 
boats  and  canoes  without  a  guide,  or  even  any  knowl- 
edge of  the  river  ;  but  hurried  on  till  one  day  about 
noon  he  suddenly  found  himself  amid  rapidsj  the  boats 
were  caught  by  the  waves,  and  whirled  onward  until 
three  were  dashed  against  the  rocks  and  sunk  with  all 
they  contained.  This  calamity  was  their  salvation ; 
for  while  they  were  drying  their  clothes  on  shore,  a 
man  who  had  gone  ahead,  suddenly  cried  out  "a  fall." 
A  cataract  was  foaming  just  below  them,  sending  its 


ident  sel- 

kind  host 
jalth,  and 
and  most 
)  uses  ev- 
;  but  plaiti 
Lccommo- 
>dated  me 
my  stay 
k  passage 
same  boat 
e  city  of 
eing,  and 
the  Chau- 
istance  up 
a  delight- 
eight,  and 
that  came 
my,  in  his 
g-erness  to 
[i  his  little 
ny  knowl- 
day  about 
•  the  boats 
ivard  until 
ik  witti  all 
salvation ; 
n  shore,  a 
It  «a  fall." 


4 

I 
-* 


' 

^ 


TAl.LB  or  MASKlNONGIi. 


231 


roar  through  the  forest.  But  lor  the  upsetting  of  the 
boats,  the  entire  party  would  have  gone  on  till  they 
came  within  the  suction  of  the  descending  waters,  when 
nothing  could  have  saved  them  from  utter  destruction. 

The  falls  of  Chaudiere  possess  some  attraction,  though 
not  to  be  compared  to  the  tails  of  Montmorency.  Yet 
a  stranger  may  spend  several  hours  in  examining  this 
place,  very  satisfactorily,  especially  il  he  be  fond  of 
rugged  and  rocky  scenery.  While  at  this  place  I  learn- 
ed that  this  tamous  river  contained  no  less  than  seven- 
teen falls  between  this  and  lake  Megantic,  which  is  the 
source  of  the  river,  situated  near  the  boundary  line  be- 
tween Lower  Canada  and  the  State  of  Maine.  All  of 
these  fails  are  said  to  be  considerably  smaller  than  the 
one  above  named.  I  now  returned  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  on  my  way  up  the  river  stopped  at  Three 
Rivers. 

While  at  the  city  of  Three  Rivers,  I  made  an  excur- 
sion to  the  Falls  of  Maskinonge,  located  a  few  miles 
northward  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  There  is  here  a  con- 
siderable cascade  and  fall ;  it  is  situated  in  a  fine  region 
and  upon  the  whole  a  very  beautiful  watwfall.  The 
river  here  forces  its  way  through  a  narrow  clifFof  rocks. 
The  day  was  warm  and  pleasant,  the  only  warm  and 
pleasant  day  I  experienced  during  my  stay  m  Canada. 
In  the  woods  near  the  falls,  in  approaching  it,  we  were 
attracted,  and  became  enveloped  in  the  most  terrible 
cloud  of  musquitos,  I  ever  had  the  misfortune  of  getting 
into  in  my  life.  We  of  course  at  first  made  a  defence, 
and  fought  desperately  for  a  few  moments,  but  seeing 
that  we  would  be  overwhelmed  by  numbers,  we  were 


Hi  I 


■ ). ,  ■ 


iJ! 


I 
it 

■.It 

II 


!1 


:^ 


232 


UKTUllN'  TO  MuNTIlKAL. 


m 


I.: 


compelletl  to  hew  our  way  through  their  ranks,  and 
escape  by  flight.  While  engaged  in  this  desperate  en- 
counter, I  almost  came  to  the  conclusion  the  place  was 
more  celebrated  for  mosquitos  than  any  thing  else. — 
This  was  the  only  occasion  on  which  I  was  annoyed 
by  these  enemies,  owing  to  the  coolness  of  the  season. 
This  river  and  the  Jacques  Cartier  river  are  celebrated 
for  excellent  salmon  fishing. 

We  were  again  soon  found  at  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
sailing  on  board  the  steamer  Canada,  for  Montreal, 
where  I  was  delighted  to  again  meet  my  kind  host  Mr, 
Hall,  of  the  Ottawa  Hotel.  During  my  stay,  among 
other  things  I  was  much  delighted  with  the  politeness 
of  many  of  the  French  gentlemen  and  ladies  *  with  their 
gay  and  lively  chat  with  each  other  •  little  of  whose 
conversation  however  I  understood,  as  it  was  always 
in  the  French  language.  Those  of  the  parties  on  leav- 
ing the  group,  never  failed  to  add  the  words,  ^^Qtiand 
viendrez  vous  me  voir  ?"  (when  are  you  coming  to  see 
me)  to  which  some  of  the  group  would  make  suitable 
answers  ;  on  which  the  parties  made  a  graceful  bow  to 
each  other;  and  if  the  group  consisted  of  gentlemen, 
the  word  Messieurs  is  added,  if  Ladies,  the  word  Mad- 
am^ if  married;  if  single,  ^^Mesdemoiselle,je  vous  sou^ 
haite,  le  hon  jour,  adieuJ'^ 

The  meeting  of  French  gentlemen  is  no  less  to  be  ad- 
mired than  their  parting.  Alter  a  cordial  shake  of  the 
hand,  among  the  first  words  spoken  are,  ^^TumeZ'Vous, 
voulez-vous  un  cigar '^^^  '^Avecplaisir  ;  merciJ'^  (smoke 
you  ;  will  you  have  a  segar  1  with  pleasure,  thanks.) 
Smoking  appears  to  be  a  characteristic  of  the  French 


t 


VZr.Vr  OF    MOSTTLT.AL. 


233 


■i 


"i 


■H 


Canadian.  They  are  here  much  more  intelligent  than 
they  are  in  the  lower  part  of  the  province  ;  thovi^h 
their  education  is  here  neglected  as  well  as  it  is  there. 
A  part  ol*  their  intelligence  may  be  attributed  to  their 
bein?  of'the  higher  classes,  and  Montr  al  beino;  the 
great  metropolis  of  British  America,  where  of  course 
they  have  more  opportunities  of  receiving  information. 
|n  the  theatre  of  Montreal  I  had  opportunities  of  see- 
ing, in  the  actors  of  the  theatre,  how  susceptible  the 
French  are  of  high  attainments. 

I  now  left  the  city  of  Montreal,  and  crossed  the  St. 
Lawrence  obliquely  on  my  way  southward  to  the  city 
of  Jia  Prairie,  a  distance  of  9  miles.     On  looking  back 
over  the  river  to  Montreal,  the  whole  city  seemed  in  a 
hls^ze  of  light,  owing  to  the  fashion   here   of  covering 
the  houses  with  tin,  which  reflected    the  rays   of  the 
setting  sun,  so  that  every  roof  seemed  a  mirror.     Be- 
hind the  city  rose  its  s:eep  and  shapely   mountain  :  in 
iront  were  wooded  islands,  and  the  clear  waters  of  the 
majestic  St.  Lav/rence,  sweeping  along  with  a  broad 
and  rapid  current ;  while  beyond  the  glittering  waves 
could  be  seen  the  dazzling  roof  of  the  mightv   Cathe- 
dral, with  her  towers  piercing  as  it  were  iY  c  clouds, 

La  Prairie  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  9  miles  from  Montreal ;  is  the  great 
thoroughfare  of  the  trade  between  Montreal  and  the 
United  States,  and  is  connected  with  St.  John,  on  the 
Sorelle  river  bv  railroad.  At  the  barracks  in  La  Prai- 
rie,  a  regiment  of  hussars  were  exercising ;  a  scene 
V'hich  we  had  but  a  few  minutes  time  to  witness,  be-? 
fore  the  cars  started  lor  St.  John,  a  distJinpQ  of  ^7  milei; 


\\i\ 


<v 


■*' 


Ill 


d 


234. 


ST.     JOHN. 


in  which  distance  we  passed  many  splendid  farms  high- 
ly cultivated,  all  of  which  were  still  within  the  Mon- 
treal district.  The  land  J  did  not  consider  as  good  as 
some  on  the  north  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  it  being 
low  and  of  a  cold  nature,  yet  its  high  state  of  cultiva- 
tion remedied  this  evil  no  doubt  to  a  considerable  extent. 

St.  John,  with  a  population  of  upwards  of  11,000, 
is  advantageously  situated  on  the  river  Sorelle;  the  ci- 
ty is  well  built  and  carries  on  considerable  trade.  St. 
John  is  celebrated  as  being  the  place  to  which  Arnold 
made  a  masterly  retreat,  after  the  disaster  of  the  Amer- 
icans before  Quebec,  in  which  a  portion  of  the  army 
were  captured.  Here  he  hastily  embarked  his  men, 
while  the  British  army  were  close  at  his  heels ;  he 
stood  and  saw  the  last  boat  but  his  own  leave  the  shore, 
then  springing  to  his  saddle,  he  galloped  back  towards 
the  British  army,  till  he  came  in  sight  of  the  pursuing 
column  pressing  rapidly  forward  being  close  upon  him  ; 
for  a  moment  he  coolly  surveyed  his  foes,  then  put 
spurs  to  his  horse  and  came  back  in  a  headlong  gallop. 
Reining  up  his  steed  by  the  shore,  he  sprang  to  the 
ground,  and  stripped  off  the  saddle  and  bridle,  shot  the 
noble  animal  dead  in  his  tracks,  to  prevent  his  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  enemy,  heaved  his  own  boat  from 
the  beach,  and  leaping  into  it,  shot  out  into  the  river 
out  of  the  reach  of  his  enemies.  All  this  when  scarce- 
ly recovered  from  the  wound  received  before  Quebec. 

While  at  St.  John,  my  attention  among  other  things 
was  drawn  to  a  great  troop  of  swallows,  where  I  count- 
ed under  the  eaves  of  the  stable  of  our  hotel,  more  than 
forty  nests,  of  the  red-breasted  swallow;  the  nests  be- 


AMERICAN  rOKTIFICATIONS. 


235 


-1 


in«5  crowded  with  young  birds  peeping  out  of  each, 
while  the  air  was  filled  with  the  old  ones  flying  about 
and  feeding  them.  The  landlord  told  me  that  they  had 
built  there  for  twenty  years,  but  missed  the  two  years 
when  the  cholera  raged  ;  for  at  that  time  there  was  a 
scarcity  of  insects.  Our  host  also  mentioned  that  in 
making  an  excavation  near  Plattsburg,  about  1,000  of 
these  birds  were  found  hybernating  in  the  sand ;  a  tale 
for  the  truth  of  which  I  do  not  vouch  ;  together  with 
several  other  swallow  stories  which  he  related. 

On  board  the  steamer  Burlington,  I  sailed  up  the  So- 
relle,  on  both  shores  of  which  could  be  seen  excellent 
land,  and  on  the  right  the  town  of  Dorchester  ;  soon  af- 
ter passing  which  we  arrived  at  the  boundary  line  be- 
tween Canada  and  the  United  States,  and  entered  lake 
Champlain. 


CHAPTER    XX. 

STATE  OF  NSW  TORE. 

Lake  Champlain — Fortifications — Boundary  line — Customhouse 
Otficer — Mount  Marcy — Mount  MansReld — Majestic  scenery 
— Canadian  soldier — M'Donough's  capture  of  the  British  fleet 
— Plattsburg — Port  Kent — Boulder  Formation — Chasm — Wa- 
ter Falls — White  Hall — Railroads. 

The  first  object  which  attracts  the  attention  of  the 
stranger  after  entering  the  northern  extremity  of  Lake 
Champlain,  on  the  western  or  New  York  side,  are  the 
American  fortifications,  situated  on  Houson's  Point, 
near  the  boundary  line.     On  the  Vermont  side  of  the 


M' 


Mm 
0 


* 


li- 


I 


if 

if  I 


J 


rn 


i 


i 
i 

It  i 


•I 


I  ! 


23(5 


LAKE    CHAMrLAlN. 


lake,  the  boundary  line  is  marked  out  by  an  opc-n  way 
cut  through  the  forest.  The  next  object  which  arrest- 
ed our  attention,  was  a  Cuslom-house  officer  on  board 
the  steamer  Burlin2;lon,  who  kindlv  invited  us  to  de- 
liver  up  our  trunks  for  his  inspection,  which  of  court  ; 
we  done  without  any  hesitancy,  as  ^uncle  Sam'  demand- 
ed it.  I  was  delighted  to  i^nd  that  this  agent  was  a 
perfect  o;entleman  ;  this  however  I  found  also  to  be  the 
case  with  Queen  Victoria's  Custom-house  agent,  after 
I  passed  the  boundary  line  of  the  United  States,  and 
was  found  in  her  dominions. 

vThe  scenery  of  lake  Champlain  \s  deservedly  much 
admired.  On  the  western  shore  I  could  see  the  prin* 
cipal  range  of  mountains  in  the  State  of  New  York,  a- 
mong  which  are  Mount  Marcy  the  highest,  attaining 
^n  elevation  of  upwards  of  5,400  feet,  It  was  still  capr 
ped  with  snow,  although  the  6th  of  June.  To  the 
eastward  were  the  Green  Mountains,  Camel's  Hump, 
and  the  still  loftier  Mount  Mansfield,  being  very  con- 
spicuous, the  whole  presenting  a  scene  of  the  grandest 
and  sublimest  character. 

While  sailing  up  this  beautiful  lake,  which  is  120 
miles  long,  enclosed  by  the  grandest  mountain  scenery 
on  every  hand,  which  appeared  tq  be  the  chief  theme 
of  conversation  with  the  passengers,  while  a  group  of 
some  half  dozen  of  us,  among  which  was  an  intelligent 
and  genteel  Canadian,  were  busily  engaged  in  conver- 
sation on  the  lake  and  its  beauties,  the  steamer  turned 
a  point  of  land  on  the  right,  and  rapidly  approached 
the  city  of  Plattsburg ;  and  when  on  that  part  of  the 
lake  where  Commodore  M'Donough  defeated  and  cap- 


Pr.  ATTSBURG     CITV. 


537 


'J 


(ured  the  British  fleet,  durino^  the  late  war,  the  Cana- 
dian chano^ed  the  conversation  by  sayinpr,  "rii^lit  here 
34  years  ago,  wo  all  got  the  terriblest  thrashing,  that 
ever  a  set  of  men  got  in  this  world ;"  to  which  some 
of  the  group  remarked,  "we  made  the  lint  fly  did  we?" 
He  answered,  "now  if  you  did  not,  I  would  not  say  so; 
be  assured  gentlemen,  those  of  us  who  escaped  were 
compelled  to  hussel  back,  around  that  point  of  land,  a 
good  deal  faster  than  we  came,  and  be  assured  you  nev- 
er catch  this  child  in  such  a  scrape  again  in  a  hurry  ; 
I  will  know  better  how  to  do  next  time.*"  The  cap- 
tain of  the  boat  remarked  to  him,  "I  suppose  you  will 
come  on  our  side  next  time,  will  you  ?"  to  which  he 
answered  with  a  smile,  "you  are  a  little  too  hard  ibr 
me  now ;  but  I  will  acknowledge  that  I  was  once  caught 
in  folly." 

Clinton  county. — While  we  were  thus  enjoying  our- 
selves with  the  Canadian,  the  steamer  placed  herself 
beside  the  pier  of  the  city  of  Plattsburg,  which  con- 
tains a  poi-ulation  of  6,4-16,  it  is  beautifully  situated  at 
the  junction  of  the  Saranac  river  with  lake  Champlain; 
it  is  well  situated  and  commands  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  the  commerce  of  the  lake.  This  place  is  cele- 
brated for  the  great  battle  and  victory  of  the  Americans 
under  Gen.  Macomb,  over  the  British  army,  under  Sir 
George  Prevost;  and  also  for  the  capture  of  the  British 
fleet  by  Commodore  M'Donough,  a  short  distance  be- 
low the  town,  on  the  lake,  during  the  late  war  with 
Great  Britain.      ... 

Our  steamer  next  touched  at  Port  Kent,  a  very  beau- 
hful  town,  sitnafod  af  the  junction  of  the  Ausable  river 


I- 

■   I 


MM 

T 


.\ 


II 


H  (■ 


I. 


f  ^ 


238 


WHITE      HALL, 


■li  i 


; 


it  II 


t  '''Mi 


'.   .»* 


with  the  lake.  At  this  place  there  is  a  boulder  loima- 
tion  with  shell,  in  which  I  observed  at  the  bottom  of 
the  section,  first  clay  30  feet  thick,  with  boulders  o! 
gneiss,  granite,  limestone  and  quartzose  or  Potsdam 
sandstone,  some  rounded  blocks  of  the  latter  being  nine 
feet  in  diameter ;  secondly,  loam,  with  shells  6  feet 
thick  ;  and  thirdly  sand,  20  feet  thick.  From  this  place 
I  went  to  Keesville,  a  little  town  of  about  900  inhabi- 
tants, to  examine  a  deep  cleft  in  the  sandstone,  through 
which  the  Ausable  river  flows  for  two  miles.  This 
chasm  is  only  from  40  to  50  feet  in  width,  while  its 
perpendicular  walls  are  lOO  feet  high.  A  flight  of 
wooden  stairs  has  been  constructed  here  so  as  to  enable 
one  to  reach  the  bottom  :  and  the  stranger  may  observe 
as  he  descends,  the  numerous  horizontal  strata  of  sili- 
ceous sandstone.  In  many  places  this  most  ancient  of 
the  fossiliferous  rocks  of  New  York,  known  as  Pots- 
dam sandstone,  is  divided  into  laminde,  by  the  remains 
of  innumerable  shells.  Which  are  in  such  profusion  as 
to  form  black  seams  like  mica,  for  which  they  might 
vastly  be  mistaken.  Above  this  chasm  were  tvvo  beau- 
tiful waterfalls,  where  the  ripple-like  ridges^  and  fur- 
rows exhibit  their  usual  parallelism,  and  ramifications, 
as  shaxp  as  if  they  had  been  made  yesterday.  I  now 
returned  to  the  lake,  for  the  purpose  of  sailing  up  to 
White  Hall,  at  the  siouthern  extremity  of  the  lake. 

Washington  county. — White  Hall,  with  a  population 
of  3,812,  is  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  lake 
Champlairi,  on  a  rough,  rocky  site  :  it  however  contains 
some  fine  buildings,  i's  a  Jflace  of  considerable  trade  and 
is  in  a  very  prospering  condition.  A  railroad  is  in  pro- 


fORT      ANNE. 


239 


gross  from  Saratoga  Springs  to  this  place,  which  will 
open  a  communication  from  the  city  of  New  York,  by 
the  way  of  Troy  and  White  Hall,  through  lake  Cham- 
plain  to  St.  John  and  Montreal,  in  Canada,  which  will 
shorten  the  route  of  travel  to  the  latter  place  very  con- 
siderably for  the  southern  traveller. 

Thus  far  lake  Champlain  forms  the  boundary  between 
New  York  and  Vermont;  the  middle  of  the  lake  being 
the  line  ;  its  waters  are  beautiful  and  its  scenery  de- 
lightful ;  at  least  all  that  could  be  seen  by  daylight.  A 
portion  ot  the  lake  I  passed  over  after  night,  and  of 
course  could  not  see  all  its  scenery.  At  White  Hall 
commences  the  Champlain  Canal,  which  connects  lake 
Champlai  ^  with  the  river  Hudson  at  the  city  ol  Troy, 
being  76  miles  in  length. 


■I,*' 


i 


' 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

Fort  Anne — Sandy  Hill — Champlain  Canal — Uprooting  stumps 
by  an  engine — Glen^s  Falls — Bridge — Caverns — Manufactures 
— Marble  quarries — Village  of  Glen's  Falls — Fort  Edward — 
Saratoga  Springs — Village  of  Saratoga — Streets — Shade  trees 
— Groves— Hotels — Mineral  Waters — Great  popularity  of  the 
water — Analysis  of  the  Congress  Spring — Appearance  of  the 
waters — High  Rock  Spring — Academy — Churches-Dwellings 
— Bowling  Alleys — Circular  Railway — Cemetery — Monument 
— Saratoga  Lake. 

Fort  Anne,  with  a  population  of  3,559,  is  situated 
about  half  way  between  White  Hall  and  the  village  of 
Sandy  Hill.     The  fortifications  at  this  place  are  cele- 
brated for  their  importance.  The  village  of  Sandy  Hill, 


440 


tJPllOOTLN'C  STtMPSi 


WM^ 


n 


Mirii 


I 


is  situated  near  where  the  Hudson  river  turns  at  right 
angles  to  the  south  ;  it  is  truly  a  splendid  village,  be- 
ing located  on  high  and  commanding  ground,  and  pos- 
sesses some  objects  of  attraction.  The  surrounding 
country  is  delightful,  being  clothed  with  heavy  crops 
of  grain  and  grass;  the  streets  of  the  village  are  broad, 
crossing  each  other  at  right  angles,  adorned  with  beau- 
tiful shade  trceSi  There  are  heie  several  very  lar^^e 
and  elegant  churches;  the  ether  buildings  are  all  of 
considerable  elej^ance.  Just  in  the  rear  of  the  villacre 
passess  the  Champlain  canal,  which  connects  that  lake 
at  White  Hall,  with  the  Hudson,  as  noticed  in  the  pre- 
ceding chapter,  by  which  the  village  profits  very  con- 
siderably. 

Warren  county. — In  passing  through  this  county,  as 
well  as  thte  above  named  county,  I  saw  many  very  de- 
lightful farms,  many  of  them  new  ones ;  but  not  a  stump 
could  be  seen  standing  in  the  fields,  they  being  all 
drawn  out  by  means  of  an  engine  made  for  the  express 
purpose;  which  is  moved  from  place  to  place,  by  be- 
ing attached  to  a  carriage  with  two  wheels  about  eight 
feet  high,  the  engine  being  placed  under  the  axle  of 
the  carriage.  The  engine  is  fastened  to  the  stump 
with  chains,  and  the  whole  constructed  with  strength, 
and  on  such  a  principle,  as  to  be  capable  of  drawing 
tiut  the  most  powerful  stump  in  the  field.  The  stumps 
are  afterwards  used  for  fencing,  being  laid  side  by  side, 
which  is  said  to  make  an  excellent  fence. 

Glen's  Falls  are  situated  on  the  Hudson  river,  196 
miles  north  of  the  city  of  New  York.  The  Falls  con- 
sist of    two  falls  and  a  short  rapid  between  them  ;  at 


G  L  E  N  '  b     FALLS. 


241 


IS  at  right 
Ilage,  be- 
k  and  pos- 
troundinsr 
javy  crops 
are  broad, 
(withbeau- 
verv  lar^e 
are   all  of 
he  villa?e 
that  lake 
in  the  pre- 
very  con- 
county,  as 
ly  very  dt- 
not  a  stump 
y  being  all 
the  express 
ice,  by  be- 
about  eight 
the  axle  of 
the  stump 
h  strength, 
of  drawing 
The  stumps 
side  by  side, 

river,  196 
)  Falls  con- 
1  (hem  •  at 


Ihe  upper  fall  the  water  descends  by  a  perpendicular 
fall,  of  about  18  feat,  and  falls  about  12  feet  in  the  short 
rapid,  in  which  distance  the  channel  is  wedged  into  a 
narrow  chasm,  where  the  water  roars  and  plunges  a- 
gainst  the  walls  which  confine  it  so  terribly  that  it  pre- 
sents a  grand  spectacle  to  behold.  Immediately  below 
this  chasm,  is  the  other  fall,  about  9  ket  high.  Over 
this  short  and  narrow  chasm,  is  constructed  a  handsome 
and  substantial  bridge,  being  supported  by  two  great 
pillars,  let  into  a  large  and  powerful  rock  which  forms 
one  side  of  the  narrow  chasm,  and  extends  over  the  re- 
maining breadth  of  the  river;  which  rock  is  about  10 
leet  high,  and  during  a  freshet,  when  the  narrow  chasm 
cannot  contain  the  water,  it  overflows  the  entire  rock 
chasm  and  all.  immediately  below  the  Toclf,  and  to 
one  side  of  the  lower  fall,  there  is  a  long  rock  adjoin- 
ing it,  which  runs  down  the  river  about  100  yards, 
which  has  several  small  caverns  or  arches  in  it,  through  . 
which  a  person  may  walk,  by  entering  it  from  a  ravine 
running  parallel  with  the  west  bank  and  rock ;  after 
passing  through,  you  are  stopped  at  the  east  side,  by 
the  rolling  waves  from  the  falls,  which  pass  about  18 
inches  beneath  your  feet.  ^  i 

The  fails  afford  a  vast  water  power,  which  is  used 
^or  manufacturing  purposes ;  there  being  a  large  num- 
ber of  factories  of  different  kinds  on  both  sides  of  the 
river ;  among  them  are  some  extensive  factories  fui 
sawing  and  dressing  marble  ;  there  being  very  e^teA- 
sive  marble  quarries  about  half  a  mile  below  the  place:, 
on  each  bank  of  the  river;  which  marble  can  be  seen 
to  extend  down  the  precipice  from  SO  to  90  feet.     The 


'•  >  I  !  ■ 


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GLEN^S    FALLS. 


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village  at  this  place,  is  situated  on  high  and  command- 
ing ground,  its  streets  beautifully  adorned  with  shade 
trees;  the  buildings  are  chiefly  brick,  and  present  con- 
siderable elegance,  there  are  also  6  very  beautiful 
churches.  There  is  a  short  canal  constructed  from  this 
place  to  interbect  the  Champlain  canal,  which  affords 
an  excellent  fticility  for  conveying  away  their  vast 
quantities  of  lumber  and  marble. 

Fort  Edward,  w^th  a  population  of  1726,  is  situated 
on  the  Hudson  river.  These  fortifications  have  ever 
been  celebrated  as  of  the  highest  importance,  during 
all  the  American  wars.  These  great  fortifications  were 
noted  during  the  old  French  w^ar,  as  being  under  the 
command  of  the  cowardly,  selfish  and  miserable  Gen. 
Webb,  who  turned  a  deaf  ear  to  the  distress  of  Fort 
William  Henry,  about  12  miles  distant,  which  after  its 
commander  Col.  Munroe  had  done  all  that  a  brave  man 
could  do,  fell,  and  its  heroic  garrison  were  all  massacred. 
At  this  important  post  stood  the  heroic  Schuyler,  when 
the  fugitives  from  Ticonderoga  under  Gen.  St.  Clair, 
emerged  from  the  forest  like  frighted  sheep,  from  be- 
fore the  victorious  Burgoyne,  who  came  thundering 
ii'om  Lake  George  down  the  Hudson,  crushing  every- 
thing in  his  passage,  during  our  revolutionary  struggle. 
In  the  mciintime,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinit}^  of  these 
fortifications,  occurred  the  murder  of  the  accomplished 
and  beautiful  Miss  Jane  McRea,  whose  treatment  and 
death  will  ever  stand,  as  a  monument  of  the  most  sav- 
age cruelty. 

Saratoga  county. — I  now  made  my  way  for  Sarato- 
ga Springs,  where  I  arrived  on  njy  route  south  from 


S A  R  A  T  OG  A    S  ni  1 X  C.  S » 


243 


Canada.  These  Springs  are  situated  on  the  west  side 
ofthe  noble  Hudson,  and  within  4  miles  of  the  beauti- 
ful Lake  of  Saratoga.  They  are  celebrated  as  one  of 
the  greatest  watering  places  in  the  world.  There  is 
here  a  town  with  a  population  of  3384  ;  the  buildings 
ofthe  town  are  large  and  well  finished,  either  of  brick 
or  frame;  the  latter  being  painted  white,  which  make 
a  very  elegant  appearance ;  being  situated  on  a  high 
connmanding  plain,  and  is  in  every  sense  one  of  the 
handsomest  villages  in  the  State  of  New  York  ;  the 
streets  are  broad  crossino;  each  other  at  rischt  ano-les  : 
the  principle  ones  extending  in  a  straight  line  lar  out 
into  the  country.  The  streets  are  all  beautifully  orna* 
mented  with  shade  trees ;  among  which  may  be  found 
Elm,  Beach,  Sugarmaple,   White  pine,  Spruce  pine, 

V press,  Balsam,  &c.,  which  together  with  4  large 
'  i..e  Groves  within  half  a  mile  ofthe  town,  perfume 
the  air  very  agreeably.  Two  or  three  of  these  groves 
are  furnished  with  seats  for  the  accommodation  of  vis- 
itors.   ■ 

The  streets  have  side-walks  about  12  feet  wide,  which 
are  beautifully  curbed  and  paved  with  patent  bricks. 
There  are  hydrants  at  almost  every  corner  ofthe  streets, 
to  supply  the  town  with  fresh  water,  for  the  various 
uses  ofthe  inhabitants;  these  side-walks  are  adorned 
on  one  side  with  hydrants,  white  posts  and  beautiful 
shade  trees  ;  while  the  other  is  no  less  ornamented  by 
the  numerous  marble  and  granite  steps  at  the  doors  of 
the  dwellings,  surmounted  by  a  splendid  iron  banister 
or  railing,  painted  green  or  black;  together  with  the 
numerous  flowering  boxes,  birdcages.  Sec,  renders  these 


ilU 


MINERAL    WaIEKS. 


Walks  more  deli-rhtful  than  those  of  other  cities  or  towns. 

The  town  contains  ID  very  large  and  elegant  hotels, 
all  of  which  arc  well  conducted ;  the  four  largest  of 
which  are  the  United  States  Hotel,  containing  480 
rooms  J  Congress  Hall,  Union  Hall,  and  Columbia  Hos- 
tel ;  which  four  hotels  alone  are  capable  of  accommo- 
dating 4900  persons  in  a  very  comfortable  manner. — 
The  whole  number  of  hotels  combined  are  capable  of 
accommodating  a  large  number  of  visitors}  in  addition 
to  which  almost  every  house  is  a  Boarding-houae,  of 
tile  first  class  5  so  that  those  vast  crowds  which  collect 
together  here  from  iar  and  wide,  find  little  difficulty 
in  procuring  good  accommodations. 

The  principal  mineral  Springs  at  this  place  are  ten 
in  number,  and  known  by  the  names  of  Congress,  Wash- 
ington, Columbia,  Hamilton,  Putnam,  Pavilion,  Flat 
Rock,  High  Rock,  Iodine  and  Empire.  Eight  of  these 
springs  are  fitted  up  in  a  very  handsome  style,  with 
curbs  or  tubes  inserted  in  the  earth  to  the  depth  of  from 
30  to  40  feet,  well  secured  against  the  admission  of 
fresh  water.  These  Springs  are  protected  by  a  roof, 
isupporled  by  large  pillars  which  are  whitened  as  well 
as  the  ceiling  over-head.  The  floors  are  two  feet  low- 
er than  the  top  of  the  curb.  Near  each  of  these  springs 
are  very  large  buidings  used  for  bottlcing  water. 

The  most  popular  of  these  mineral  waters  is  the  Con- 
gress Spring,  which  is  visited  by  thousands  and  thou- 
sands daily  during  the  months  of  July  and  August. — 
This  spring  alone  has  been  an  independent  fortune  to 
the  late  Dr.  Clark  &  Co.,  as  vast  quantities  of  the  wa- 
ter is  sold  in  bottles  to  citizens  of  our  country  who  live 


CONCnESS    SPKIXC. 


245 


or  towns. 

int  hotels, 

largest  of 

ning  480 

mbia  Ho" 

iccommo- 

aanner. — 

apable  of 

I  addition 

-house,  of 

:h  collect 

difficulty 

e  are  ten 
ess,  Wash* 
lion,  Flat 
bt  of  these 
:yie,  with 
3th  of  from 
mission  of 
by  a  roof, 
;d  as  well 
)  feet  low- 
'se  springs 
iter. 

s  the  Con* 
and  thou- 
August. — 
fortune  to 
►f  the  wa- 
y  who  live 


^ 


at  too  remote  a  distance  to  attend  the  springs  :  in  addi- 
tion to  which  vast  quantities  are  exported  to  foreign 
countries.  The  waters  of  this  noted  spring  are  famed 
by  the  known  world  for  their  medical  qualities. 
The  following  is  the  analysis  of  the  Congress  Spring 
water,  at  the  spring  by  the  celebrated  Dr.  Allen  : 

Chloride  of  Sodium         -        -         -  300,240 

Hydriodate  of  Soda,  and  B  Potassa  -    G,OUO 

-     Caibonateof  Soda         ...  -      9,013 

Carbonate  of  Alairnesia         -         -  -    ]0(),i)<S1 

Carbonate  of  I. iine         -        -         -  10.'i,416 

CarUn  lie  of  Iron         ...  -       1,00U 

Sulphat«  of  Soda,  atraco,         -         -  -      ()00 

Silex  and  Alumina         -         .         -  -     1,03G 

Solid  contents  in  a  gallon        -        -        .        611  892 

Carbonate  Acid  Gas        •         -         383,777 
Atmospheric  Air        -        -        •         2,3G1 

Gaseous  contents  in  a  gallon        -        -      38G,138 

The  other  Mineral  Springs  contain  some  of  the  same 
ingredients  which  the  Congress  Spring  does,  yet  not 
in  the  same  proportion  ;  some  contain  more  Iron  ;  some 
more  Lime  :  while  several  have  considerable  Iodine  & 
other  mineral  ingredients;  but  none  as  m.uch  Magnesia 
and  Soda.  These  celebrated  waters  are  very  cold,  have 
a  sparkling  appearance  similar  to  very  clear  water  heat- 
ed just  before  the  act  of  boiling.  The  great  quantity 
of  gas  in  the  composition  of  these  waters  passes  off  rap- 
idly. 

The  water  as  it  rUns  to  the  surface  appears  very  much 
agitated,  as  water  in  the  act  of  boiling  in  a  common 
kettle.  As  it  rolls  to  the  surface,  it  is  attended  by  a 
buzzing  noise  ;  the  surface  is  almost  enveloped  in  a 
mist  or  spray  which  rises;  this  in  a  clear  da}'  is  very 


;m1': 


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It: 

I 


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IIIG'TI    nOCK    SPRTXf;. 


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11 


])eautirul  to  behold.  A  clikken  or  other  fowl  being 
put  down  into  the  curb  in  the  midst  of  this  mist  for  a 
few  minutes,  when  removed  it  will  be  found  that 
life  is  extinct :  and  a  person  on  thrusting  his  head  into 
the  top  of  the  curb  will  feel  the  effects  of  the  gas  in- 
stantaneously. These  singular  waters  are  so  cold  that 
it  is  with  considerable  difficulty  a  person  can  drink  off 
a  common  glass  without  stopping  to  take  breath. 

The  High  Rock  Spring  consists  of  a  rock  22  fett  in 
circumference  and  5  feet  high,  and  of  a  conical  form; 
in  the  top  of  which  is  an  aperture  of  about  nine  inches 
in  diameter;  its  depth  is  unknown.  The  water  rises 
to  within  about  eighteen  inches  of  the  top  ol  the  Rock. 
The  water  of  this,  as  well  as  all  the  other  Springs,  ap- 
pears very  much  agitated  by  its  terrible  rolling  and 
rumbling ;  its  sparkling  appearance,  and  the  singular 
buzzing  noise  attending  it.  The  aperture  whereby  the 
water  escapes  as  it  rises,  has  not  asyet  been  discovered. 
The  whole  of  this  rock  appears  to  be  a  great  curiosity, 
as  its  waters  rise  three  and  a  half  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  again  escapes  in  such 
a  manner  that  no  trace  of  its  channel  has  yet  been  dis- 
covered.  The  features  of  this  celebrated  Rock  have 
every  appearance  of  being  once  overflown  by  the  wa- 
ter, and  formed  b}^  the  ingredients  in  its  composition ; 
which  with  the  action  of  the  sun  and  air  on  the  same 
is  noi  in  the  least  improbable. 

The  town  contains  the  Saratoga  Academy',  a  frame 
structure,  situated  in  a  beautiful  white  pine  grove  on 
the  main  street  about  200  yards  from  the  town,  which 
is  a  very  flourishing  institution.     There  are  ;3  large  and 


PLACES  OF  amt;«;e:\ient. 


247 


elegant  churches,  each  of  which  contains  a  very  fine 
Organ  ;  the  Catholic  church  however  has  the  honor  of 
having  the  finest.  There  are  also  many  splendid  dwel- 
lings in  the  town  and  its  vicinity,  among  which  is  that 
of  Judge  Marvin,  which  is  situated  on  commanding 
ground  overlookino;  the  whole  town,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  splendid  dwellings  in  the  State  of  New  York. — 
This  gentleman  is  the  owner  of  the  great  United  States 
Hotel,  and  a  vast  deal  of  property  in  the  town  and  its 
vicinity,  together  with  a  very  largeportionof  the  stock 
in  the  Saratoga  Bank.  A  large  portion  of  the  lands  a- 
reund  the  town  are  the  property  of  this  same  wealthy 
man;  many  of  the  lands  are  laid  out  in  lots  from  a 
fourth,  to  an  acre  each,  and  offered  for  sale  at  $1200 
per  acre ;  at  which  enormous  price  some  are  sold.  The 
soil  is  of  an  inferior  quality,  as  the  whole  surrounding 
country  is  an  elevated  sandy  plain,  and  was  it  not  for 
the  celebrated  Mineral  Waters,  the  whole'plain,  hand- 
some as  it  is,  would  be  comparatively  a  barren  plain. 

There  are  here  a  number  of  bathing  establishments, 
where  baths  may  be  had  at  all  times  of  mineral  or  soft 
waters,  at  any  temperature.  There  are  also  for  the  a- 
musement  of  persons.  Swings,  Stooling  Galleries,  Bow- 
ling Alleys,  Race  Paths:  and  in  one  ofthe  Groves  there 
is  a  circular  Railway  of  about  400  feet  in  diameter 
with  two  tracks,  on  each  of  w^hich  is  a  small  car  with 
a  seat  for  two  persons.  This  is  propelled  on  the  track 
by  means  of  a  crank  which  the  passenger  has  himself 
to  turn. 

The  Cemetery,  about  a  mile  from  town,  contains  a- 
bout  30  acres  of  o;round:  the  whole  of  which  is   taste- 


:U 


k 


i  r 
.£'''■■ 


,} 


«: 


HI 


'sn 


^.11 


24S" 


REMIS'S  ITFIcrTT??. 


11 


lully  hiid  out,  and  contains  many  handsome  Tombs  anei 
Monuments.  The  largest  is  situated  on  a  high  and 
commanding  eminence,  and  is  a  very  splendid  monu- 
ment, erected  to  the  memory  of  Obed  M.  Cohnan,  the 
celebrated  musician.  Tt  contains  handsome  and  appro- 
priate inscriptions  and  emblems.  This  beautiful  mon- 
ument was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $16,000.  At  the  dis- 
tance of  4  miles  is  the  beautiful  little  Lalte  of  Saratoga, 
which  is  20  miles  long,  on  which  are  several  handsome 
little  steamers,  on  board  of  which  a  delightful  pleasure 
ride  may  be  had  up  and  down  the  Lake. 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

Bemi^^s  Hciglits — Historical  Sketch — Last  Battle  of  AmoJd  in 
the  Cause  of  American  Freedom — Anecdote  of  Gen.  Gate^ 
— Conway  Cabel — Stillwater — Lake  George — Alexandria — 
Ticonderoga — Crown  Point. 

The  next  objects  of  attraction  in  the  vicinity  of  Sar- 
atoga, are  the  ever  memorable  Heights  known  by  the 
name  of  Bemis's  Heights,  celebrated  for  the  two  great 
battles  and  capture  of  the  British  army  under  Burgoyne, 
during  the  Revolution.  On  this  celebrated  battle-field, 
the  American  camp  was^  pitched  on  the  Hudson,  and 
extended  back  about  half  a  mile  from  the  share.  Al- 
most directly  in  front  were  two  creeks  running  nearly 
parallel  to  each  other,  along  which  the  American  pick- 
ets were  stationed  ;  these  presented  serious  obstacles  to 
the  advance  of  Burgoyne,  while  towards  the  sources  ol 
these  two  creeks,  or  farther  up  tne  Heights  toward  the 


I 


liii 


HISTORICAL    SKETCH. 


240 


'ombs  anri 
high  and 
id  monu- 

)lman,  the 

md  appro- 
iful  raon- 
t  the  dis- 

)f  Saratoga, 
handsome 

ul  pleasure 


of  AmoW  in 
f  Gen.  Gates 
Alexandria — 

inity  of  Sar- 
3wn  by  the 
e  two  great 
r  Burgoyne, 
battle-field, 
ludson,  and 
shore.  Ai- 
ming nearly 
erican  pick- 
obstacles  to 
le  sources  oi 
s  toward  the 


&.i 


left  of  the  American  line,  the  approach  was  easier.  It 
was  on  this  account  Burgoyne  resolved  to  make  his  at- 
tack in  that  direction.  Accordingly  on  the  memorable 
7th  of  October,  moving  his  troops  in  three  columns  he- 
advanced  to  the  American  left. 

While  I  was  viewing  leisurely,  these  far-famed  Heights, 
my  mind  was  drawn  back  to  many  of  the  daring  deeds 
of  the  impetuous  Arnold,  more  particularly  as  this  was 
the  last  bloody  field  upon  which  he  struggled  so  nobly 
for  American  Liberty.  It  was  here  the  hero  received 
a  shattered  leg  in  the  the  very  sally  port  of  the  British 
camp,  where  rider  and  horse  sunk  together  to  the  earth  ; 
it  was  here  on  the  7th  of  October,  1777,  that  Arnold, 
when  hearing  the  heavy  explosions  of  artillery  making 
the  earth  tremble  beneath  him,  that  he  mounted  that 
beautiful  dark  Spanish  steed  name  Warren,  (after  the 
hero  of  Bunker  Hill,)  and  launched  like  a  thunder-bolt 
away  to  the  scene  of  strife,  and  where  the  shot  fell  thick- 
est, there  that  black  steed  was  seen  plunging  through 
the  smoke,  and  where  death  reaped  down  the  brave 
fastest,  there  his  thrilling  shout  was  heard  ringing  over 
the  din  and  tumult.  And  no  sooner  than  did  the  Brit- 
ish line  begin  to  shake  and  falter,  before  Arnold  discov- 
ered the  gallant  Frazier,  mounted  on  a  gray  horse,  mo- 
ving amid  the  chaos,  bringing  order  out  of  confusion, 
and  courage  out  of  despondency,  wherever  he  passed. 
No  sooner  had  he  made  this  discovery,  than  he  applied 
a  remedy,  by  ordering  General  Morgan  to  mark  that 
gallant  officer  as  a  host.  But  few  moments  elapsed  be-» 
fore  the  ojallant  Frazier  was  cut  down,  and  with  him 
fell  the  right  arm  of  their  strength.  The  impetuous 
11* 


•■''I 


'\>\ 


>'V 


'■'f  rwrf 


250 


iiir^ToKicAL  siCF/rcrr. 


rifP 


Pii, 


:i  ■! 


Arnold  lind  no  sooner  g-iven  INIoro-an  this  order,  than  he 
put  hitnself  at  Ifx^  head  of  three  regiments  of  Larned's 
l>rigade,  and  with  a  shout,  those  who  heard  it  never 
forjjot  to  their  latest  dav,  and  with  which  he  stormed 
the  batteries,  cleared  every  obstacle,  and  forced  the  Brit- 
ish line  back  into  their  camp.  But  scarcely  had  they 
entered  it,  before  the  heroic  Arnold  was  heard  making 
the  most  enthusiastic  appeals  to  his  troops,  "You,"  said 
he  to  one,  "was  with  me  at  Quebec,"  "3'ou  in  the  wil- 
derness," "and  you  on  Champlain;  Follow  me."  His 
Bword  was  seen  glancin^;  like  a  beam  of  light  along 
their  serried  ranks,  the  next  moment  he  and  his  he- 
roes like  a  whelmino;  Hood  were  bursting  over  the  en- 
emies' entrenchments,  and  hand  to  hand  with  arguments 
of  bloody  steel,  were  pleading  the  cause  ol  ages  yet  un- 
born. The  British  we  are  told,  fought  with  a  fury  of 
men  struggling  iorlife.  Hoarse  as  a  mastiff,  of  true 
British  breed,  Lord  Balcarras  was  heard  from  rank  to 
rank,  loud  animating  his  troops,  while  on  the  other 
hand,  fierce  as  the  hungry  tiger  of  Bengal,  the  impetu- 
ous Arnold  was  hurling  his  heroes  on  the  stubborn  foe, 
bearing  on  Columbia's  lovely  stripes,  till  horse  and  ri- 
der sunk  together  to  the  earth,  the  good  steed  dead  and 
the  heroic  Arnold  beneath  him  with  his  leg  shattered 
to  pieces. 

This  ended  the  fight,  and  the  wounded  hero  was  borne 
pale  and  bleeding  Irom  the  field  of  his  fame,  only  to  a- 
wakea  to  chagrin  and  disappointment.  There  is  little 
doubt  that  when  he  galloped  to  the  field,  he  had  made 
up  his  mind  to  bury  his  sorrows,  persecutions  and  dis- 
appointments in  a  bloody  grave.     Would  that  he  ha^d 


ANECDOTE  OF  OENraAL  GATKS. 


251 


i 


succeeded,  fur  until  then  his  faco  hud  shone  like  the 
star  oi'the  niornincr,  and  lie  liad  du/zledthe  world  with 
tlie  glare  oi'his  noble  exploits.  I3ut  Jilas  lor  Arnold  ' 
when  wronged  and  disappointed,  he  fell  like  Lucifer 
I'rom  a  heaven  of  ^^lory,  into  an  abyss  of  never-ending 
infamy,  where  his  nanie  will  ever  leceive  the  curses 
of  his  countrymen,  and  the  scorn  of  the  world. 

We  were  informed  by  the  ])oo])le  of  those  retrions,  to 
whom  it  was  handed  down  by  tln-ir  lathers,  who  were 
heroes  in  the  conilict,  that  tbe  heroic  Arnold  inflicted 
this  last  and  des])erate  blow  on  the  J3ritish,  while  Gen, 
Gates,  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  American  army, 
was  in  his  tent  in  the.  camp,  discussing  witli  Sir  Fran- 
cis Clark,  the  merits  ol  the  Revolution.  This  gentle- 
man had  been  wounded  and  taken  prisoner,  and  was 
laid  on  Gates'  bed  :  and  when  one  ol  the  American  aids 
came  galloping  from  the  field,  the  aid  to  his  great  sur- 
prise, found  his  General  very  much  excited,  though  not 
about  the  battle.;  but  because  his  antagonist  would  not 
allow  the  force  of  his  argument.  Walking  out  of  the 
room  he  called  his  aid, after  him,  and  asked  him  if  he 
''had  ever  heard  so  impudent  a  son  of  a  b — — h." 

This  was  the  part  that  General  Gates  took  in  the  des- 
perate struggle  on  the  plains  of  Saratoga,  and  afterwards 
snatched  and  wore  the  laurels  upon  his  own  brow,  which 
were  won  by  the  blood  and  wounds  of  such  towering 
heroes  as  Arnold,  Morgan,  Dearborn,  Ten  Brock,  Poor, 
and  a  host  of  others.  This  being  the  case,  we  need  not 
he  surprised  that  h's  vanity  became  so  inflated,  that  he 
was  afterwards  found  so  deeply  implicated  in  the  Con- 
way Cabel,  perhaps  better  known  by  the  name  of  Con- 


h 


.11 


! 


\'ii 


i  *  ( 


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'   1   :' 


.'J 


M 


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ti 

it 


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i] 


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hi 


If^n^ 


Hi 


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I 


m 


nrn 

tttsJ  0* 


T  I  C  O  N  D  E  tt  O  O  A  . 


way  conspiracy,  against  General  Washington  \  in  \vhic!l 
it  was  louncl  that  to  gratify  a  mean  ambition,  he  laid  a 
train  to  undermine  Washington  \  which  had  it  matured 
or  exploded,  would  have  shivered  the  Union  into  frag- 
ments. 

The  town  of  Stillwater,  with  a  population  of  2733,  is 
situated  up  the  Hudson,  from  the  battle-field.  "  Stillwa- 
ter is  celebrated  for  the  surrender  of  Burgoyne,  on  the 
17th  of  October,  only  10  days  after  the  great  battle  of 
Bemis's  Heights.  To  this  town  he  had  retreated  after 
the  battle,  and  intended  to  cut  his  way  back  to  Lake 
George,  the  way  he  came;  but  by  the  time  hfe  reached 
Stillwater,  he  learned  that  Fort  Edward  was  again  in 
possession  of  the  Americans,  which  completely  cut  off 
his  retreat,  as  that  fortification  is  situated  a  few  miles  a- 
boye  on  the  Hudson. 

On  leaving  these  celebrated  places  &  traveling  north, 
brought  me  to  the  south  end  of  Lake  George,  at  which 
place  is  situated  the  town  of  Cadwell.  From  this  place, 
steamers  run  regularly  to  Alexandria,  at  the  north  end 
of  the  Lake,  a  distance  of  36  miles.  This  Lake  forms 
the  division  between  the  counties  of  Warren  and  Wash- 
ington for  that  distance,  and  is  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful inland  lakes  of  fresh  water  in  the  State.  From  Al- 
exandria, 3  miles  stage  travel  brought  me  to  Ticonde- 
roga,  which  has  ever  been  celebrated  as  a  military  post 
ot  the  greatest  importance.  It  is  situated  on  the  wes- 
tern shore  of  Lake  Champlain.  Many  desperate  con- 
flicts have  taken  place  in  attempting  to  get  possession 
of  this  important  post,  during  the  wars  of  America.-— 
The  old  fortifications  are  now  famous  for  their  ruins. 


A*ii'E(JT  or  Tin:  stath. 


253 


The  city  of  Ticonderoga  contains  a  population  of  2 169, 
Crown  Point,  with  a  population  of  2212,  situated 
farther  down  the  lake,  is  a  place  also  celehrated  for  its 
military  inn[ortance,  its  many  gallant  defences  against 
the  assaults  of  its  enemies,  and  for  the  adventures  of 
General  Putnam  and  Mayor  Rogers  in  1754<.  This  is 
also  the  Fort  into  which  the  gallant  Arnold  led  in  safe- 
ty, his  weary,  Wounded  gallant  band,  by  a  bridle  path 
in  the  dead  hour  of  night,  and  thus  saved  thepi  from  ut- 
ter destruction,  after  his  defeat  on  Valcour  Island. 

Here  I  left  the  State  of  New  York,  and  Crossed  lake 
Champlain  for  the  State  of  Veimoni,  Whos*;  famoUs 
Green  Mountams  presented  to  me  fuch  a  grand  ap- 
pearance, when  returning  from  Cinada,  ^y  sailing  p 
the  lake,  that  I  determined  to  traverse  them  Ir  n  this 
quartet.      " '    '  *  >••'.•       r         '-r.- 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 
STATS  OF  VERIVlbNT. 

Aspect  ofthe  State — Grazing — Vergennes — Burlington — Unl- 
-  versity-^Streets — Harbour — Manufactures— Green.Mountains 
—Onion  River  Valley — Towr— Agriculture — Montpeliqr— 
Mountain  Scenery — State-Hu^  , — Towns — Burns — Feeding 
Stock — Sheep  Barn — Racks  or  Mangers-^Treatment  of  Sheep 
— Dairy — Milk  Barn — Tr  .tment  of  Milch  Cows — Butter — 
Cheese  Room — Maple  S  «j;ar-»-'Sugar  Camp. 

In  travelling,  from  the  city  of  Vergennes,  through 
the  State  I  found  that  the  Green  Mountains  from  which 
the  State  derives  its  name,  on  account  ofthe  evergreens 


! 


- 


11 


2H 


ASPKCT    OF    THE    STATE. 


\'>    ■    I 


with  wliich  they  are  covered,  occupy  a  large  portion 
of"  the  State.  I  found  the  face  of  the  country  M'here  it 
is  not  mountainous,  agreeably  undulating  in  places, 
while  in  others  it  is  hilly,  which  asa  general  thing  may 
be  said  of  the  State.  The  range  of  mountains  pass  thro'' 
the  whole  length  of  the  State,  about  halfway  between 
lake  Cham'plain  and  the  Connecticut  river.  From  these 
mountains  many  streams  take  their  rise.  The  scenery 
of  these  celebrated  mountains  with  their  green  fleeces 
visible  to  their  towering  summits,  is  truly  romantic  & 
beautiful,  the  air  pure  and  healthful :  and  the  natives  of 
the  Slate  usually  known  by  the  name  of  Green  Moun- 
tain Boys,  famous  for  their  daring  exploits  in  our  Rev- 
olution, and  no  less  celebrated  for  their  enterprise,  in- 
telligence, and  hospitality. 

The  soil  is  dark,  rich  and  loamy.  It  is  admirably 
adapted  to  sustain  drought,  and  affords  the  finest  pastu- 
rage in  the  world.  The  soil  is  fertile,  and  all  kinds  ot 
grain  suite.'  to  the  climate,  are  produced  in  great  abun- 
dance. But  grazing,  however,  isthe  chief  employment 
of  the  inhabitants  ;  as  vast  numbers  of  horses,  cattle  and 
sheep  are  reared  in  the  State.  The  traveller  on  every 
hand,  could  see  great  herds  of  cattle  and  sheep.  A- 
mong  the  cattle  were  numbers  of  the  finest  milch  cows, 
as  the  dairy  receives  great  attention  throughout  the 
State.  On  our  way  to  Burlington,  the  Steamer  run  in- 
to the  port  of  Vergennes,  a  city  witii  a  population  of 
1017,  which  is  beautifully"  situated  at  the  lower  falls 
of  Otter  Creek,  celebrated  as  being  the  port  at  which 
Commodore  McDonough  fitted  out  the  fleet  that  con- 
quered the  British  fleet,  on  lake  Champlain,  near  Platts- 


I 


n  u  11  r.  I  N  G  Ton. 


i>55 


burg,  (luring  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain.  The 
creek  is  navigable  to  the  falls  for  the  largest  vessels. — 
The  falls  here  afford  an  excellent  water  power  for  man- 
ufacturing purposes.  The  city  has  some  commerce, 
which  passes  through  lake  Champlain.  The  place  is 
well  situated  and  built  in  an  eleo-ant  style. 

Chittenden  county. — Burlington,  with  a  population 
of  4271,  is  the  most  important  city  in  the  State.  It  is 
situated  on  the  shore  of  lake  Champlain,  built  on  a  gent- 
ly rising  slope,  overlooking  the  lake  and  harbour. — 
The  city  is  well  built,  contains  many  fine  dwellings, 
and  also  several  splendid  public  buildings.  There  is 
here  a  handsome  Court  House  and  other  county  build- 
ings ;  also  the  University  of  Vermont,  the  buildings  of 
which  are  well  built,  and  the  grounds  well  arranged. 
The  streets  of  the  city  are  adorned  with  avenues  of  the 
locust  tree,  which  were  covered  with  white  blossoms 
and  affording  an  agreeable  shade.  The  falls  of  Onion 
river,  afford  an  excellent  water  power,  where  are  some 
large  and  well  conducted  factories.  The  city  has  an 
excellent  harbour,  and  is  the  principal  commercial  place 
on  lake  Champlain,  being  admirably  situated,  and  there- 
fore commands  the  commerce  of  the  Lake.  From  this 
place  I  crossed  the  Green  Mountains,  which  are  com- 
posed of  chiefly  oi  the  chlorite  of  schist  and  granite  so  far 
as  rock  are  concerned.  The  roads  through  these  Moun- 
tains are  good,  not  being  very  steep ;  but  owing  to  the 
great  height  of  the  mountains,  the  ascent  and  descent 
are  long.  The  stages  running  between  the  city  of  Bur- 
lington and  Montpelier  the  Capital  of  the  State,  all  have 
a  team  of  6  horses,  the  better  to  cli  mb  the  loftv  mountains. 


'-  ■ 

:  it- 

i  ;  I 


p 


Hi 


>.  i  I 


i  !■': 


it  >  >,,; 


1 


w 


y;d 


Ml 


1 


t 


m  ■ 


256 


WILLISTON — RICHMOND — BALTOK. 


ii  a 


ii)!l  t 


Williston  and  Richmond,  one  with  1554«  inhabitants, 
and  the  other  with  1054f,  each  ofwhicha:eupthe\Til- 
ley  of  the  Onion  River,  in  a  fertile  region  of  country, 
possessing  many  attractions  for  a  small  valley,  being 
highly  and  skilfully  cultivated,  and  the  whole  valley 
clothed  with  a  heavy  crop  of  grain  and  grass.  Many 
t>f  those  beautiful  little  fields  contained  herds  of  very 
handsome  stock,  among  which  were  the  largest,  fattest 
and  handsomest  sheep  that  I  ever  saw  in  my  life.  In 
this  State  great  attention  is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  sheep. 
■Baitoh,  with  a  population  of  4>10,  is  a  very  beautiful 
little  village,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Onion  river,  about  half  way  between  the  city  of  Bur- 
lington and  Montpelier.  This  little  village  is  surroun- 
ded oW  every  hand  by  picturesque  scenery,  which  de- 
serves all  the  praise  that  can  be  lavished  upon  it,  yet 
it  is  viewed  at  a  considerable  distance  olT. 
*  Washington  cown^^/.— Watei^burg,  with  a  population 
of  1992,  and  Middlesex  with  a  population  of  1270,  each 
of  which  are  situated  still  farther  up  the  Onion  river. 
The  town  of  Middlesex  is  within  6  miles  of  the  Capi- 
tal of  the  State.  The  towns  are  both  in  a  very  flour- 
ishing condition,  though  situated  in  a  more  rugged  re- 
gion of  country  than  some  of  the  others,  as  the  country 
increases  in  wildness  as  you  advance  toward  the  source 
of  the  Or^^'on'river. 

Montpelier,  with  a  population  of  3735,  is  the  Capi- 
tal of  the  State.  This  town  is  situated  in  a  truly  wild 
and  rugged  region,  at  the  junction  of  the  north  &  south 
branches  of  the  Onion  river.  In  this  famous  region  of 
country,  the  stranger  may  view  mountain  scenery  (S( 


MONTPELIKR. 


257 


habitants, 
p  the  \Til- 

country, 
ey,  being 
)le  valley 
s.  Many 
h  of  very 
est,  fattest 

life.  In 
g  of  sheep. 
V  beautiful 
)ank  ol  the 
ty  of  Bur- 
is  surroun- 
which  de- 

5on  it,  yet 

•  •  >     »  ,  ■  • 

population 
1270, each 
[lion  river, 
'the  Capi- 
very  flour- 
rugged  re- 
;he  country 
I  the  source 

3  the  Capi- 
truly  wild 
rth  &  south 
IS  region  of 
scenery  df 


li 


the  most  sublime  and  imposing  character  on  every  hand, 
among  which  may  be  seen  Camel's  Hump,  and  the  still 
loftier  Mount  Mansfield,  whose  towering  summit  stands 
conspicuous  irom  every  point ;  while  immediately  a- 
round  the  town,  the  scenery  is  wild  and  rugged  indeed, 
notwithstanding  the  town  oiMontpelier  possesses  some 
attractions.  Here  is  a  State  House,  a  very  splendid 
granite  building,  recently  erected,  which  is  a  structure 
possessing  great  elegance.  There  is  also  here  a  hand- 
some Court  House,  and  other  county  buildings. 

After  leaving  the  Capital  of  Vermont,  my  course 
was  still  east  toward  the  Connecticut  river;  and  after 
travelling  through  some  rugged  looking  places, brought 
us  to  the  towns  of  Plainfield  and  Marsfield,  the  one 
with  a  population  of  880,  and  the  other  with  1156, 
the  former  9  and  the  latter  15  miles  from  the  Capital. 
Each  of  these  little  places  contain  some  fine  buildino-s. 
and  have  quite  a  promising  appearance,  presenting  al- 
so a  large  share  of  wild  and  romantic  scenery  in  their 
respective  vicinities. 

Caledonia  county. — Cabot,  with  1440  inhabitants,  & 
Panville,  with  a  population  of  2633,  are  two  places 
well  situated  ;  the  latter  being  on  the  east  side  of  the 
principal  range  of  mountains.  The  traveller  on  arri- 
ving at  this  place,  is  quite  revived  at  the  appearance  of 
the  town,  especially  alter  emerging  from  the  mountain 
gorges  in  the  west ;  v^hich  to  some  may  appear  gloomy 
and  dismal,  yet  to  the  student  of  nature,  they  furnish  a 
rich  theme  for  contemplation,  as  well  as  other  natural 
scenery.  On  the  same  route  are  the  towns  of  St.  Johns- 
bur^:  and  Waterford,  each  containino-  about  2000  inhab- 


n 


■i 


^1 


II 


I  ^  '^ 


m 


Hi 


258 


nARNS    IN    VERMONT. 


itants;  both  of  which  are  beautifully  situated  on  the 
left  side  of  the  Connecticut  river,  in  a  fertile  region  of 
country.  By  the  time  I  arrived  at  the  town  of  Water- 
ford,  I  traversed  the  State  from  west  to  east,  through 
the  mountain  regions,  in  doing  which,  I  learned  the  fol- 
lowing with  regard  to  barns,  the  dairy,  &c.: 

The  Barn  in  this  State,  is  considered  the  most  impor- 
tant appendage  to  the  farm  ;  they  are  made  large  enough 
to  hold  all  the  fodder  and  animals  on  the  farm.  Not  a 
hoof  about  the  premises  is  required  to  brave  the  noith- 
ern  winters  unsheltered  ;  but  are  provided  with  a  tight 
roof  and  a  dry  bed,  as  it  is  contended  they  will  thrive 
faster  and  consume  so  much  less  food  when  thus  pr®- 
tected,  that  the  owner  will  be  ten-fold  renumerated. — 
Disease  is  thus  often  prevented,  and  if  it  occurs,  is  more 
easily  cured.  The  saving  of  fodder,  by  placing  it  at  once 
under  cover  when  cured,  is  another  great  item  of  con- 
sideration. The  barns  are  generally  placed  on  the  side 
of  a  hill,  inclining  to  the  south  or  east;  an  extensive 
range  of  stabling  is  made  below,  which  is  much  warm- 
er than  when  constructed  of  wood  above  ground,  and 
the  mangers  are  easily  supplied  with  fodder,  which  is 
stored  above.  An  extensive  cellar  room  is  made  next 
the  bank,  in  which  all  the  roots,  such  as  turnips,  pota- 
toes, &c.,  required  for  the  cattle,  are  safely  stored  in 
front  of  their  mangers,  and  where  they  are  easily  de- 
posited from  carts  through  windows,  arranged  on  the 
upper  side,  or  scuttlers  in  the  barn  floor  above.  More 
room  is  afforded  for  hay  and  fodder  by  having  the  sta- 
bles below^,  and  in  this  way,  a  large  part  of  the  labor  of 
pitching  it  on  to  elevated  scaffolds  is  avoided.  The  stables 


d  on  thi' 
region  of 
of  Waler- 
,  through 
d  the  fol- 

Dst  impor- 
re  enough 
hfi.     Not  a 

he  noith- 
ith  a  tight 
all  thrive 

thus  pr®- 
fierated. — 
irs,  is  more 
g  it  at  once 
jra  of  con- 
on  the  side 

extensive 
jch  warm- 
round,  and 
•,  which  is 
made  next 
•nips,  pota- 
y  stored  in 

easily  de- 
ged  on  the 
ive.  More 
ng  the  sta- 
the  labor  of 
The  stables 


4 


SHEET    DARNS 


251) 


are  so  arranged  as  to  ke^p  perfectly  dr}^,  as  it  is  conten- 
ded and  that  justly  too,  that  low  damp  premises  are  in- 
jurious to  the  health  of  animals. 

Every  consideration  is  given  to  the  saving  of  manure. 
The  stables  have  drains,  that  will  carry  ofTthe  liquid  e- 
vacuations  to  a  muck-heap  or  reservoir  ;  and  whatever 
manure  is  thrown  out  is  carefully  protected  by  a  low 
roof,  projecting  several  feet  over  the  manure  heap  which 
is  a  good  practice  ;  as  it  thus  prevents  waste  from  sun 
and  rains.  The  mangers  are  so  constructed  as  to  econ- 
omize the  fodder,  which  is  generally  done  by  box-feed- 
ing for  cattle,  which  is  preferred  ;  as  in  addition  to  hay, 
roots,  and  meal  may  be  fed  in  them  without  loss,  and 
with  over-ripe  hay,  a  great  deal  of  seed  may  in  this  way 
be  saved,  as  well  as  the  fine  leaves  and  small  fragments 
of  hay  which  are  also  kept  from  waste,  which  by  racks, 
are  generally  lost  by  falling  on  the  floor  or  ground. — 
When  a  rack  is  used,  it  is  provided  with  a  shallow  box 
underneath  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  rock,  in- 
to which  the  seed,  leaves  and  small  fras;ments  of  hav 
fall, and  are  thereby  secured  from  loss. 

The  sheep  barn  is  generally  built  upon  a  hill  side, 
constructed  with  three  floors  over  each  other,  with 
space  enough  between  each  for  sheep  to  pass  through  ; 
and  above  the  third  floor  is  room  for  the  storage  of  fod- 
der. This  sheep  house  has  three  side  walls,  and  theo- 
pen  side  is  to  the  south,  with  sliding  or  swinging  doors, 
to  guard  against  storms.  The  floors  are  made  perfectly 
tight,  and  the  two  on  which  the  sheep  stand,  are  con- 
structed with  gutters,  to  carry  off  the  wine.  The  troughs 
are  usually  made  of  two  boards,  12  inches  wide,  nailing 


.:  I 


■  lU 


$- 


•■1 


■'I'siTHIl- 


'If 


I 


ji 


H 


1^i 


M 


I 


'i 
If 

i,  » 


260 


TREATMENT    OF    SHEEP. 


Hi 


tlie  lower  side  of  one  upon  the  edge  of  the  other,  fas- 
tening both  into  two  or  three  inch  plank,  about  18  in- 
ches long,  with  notches  in  the  upper  edge  for  the  trough. 
In  addition  to  the  houses  for  sheltering  sheep,  there 
may  be  seen  about  the  premises  racks  or  mangers.  The 
first  consists  of  a  common  rack,  or  rather  two  racks, 
placed  together,  forming  an  angle  of  about  25  degrees, 
placed  on  a  broad  trough,  which  is  situated  near  the 
ground,  so  the  sheep  can  reach  over  it  to  the  rack  ;  this 
trough  catches  the  fine  hay  and  seed  which  falls  in 
feeding.  The  second  apparatus  consists  simply  of  a 
kind  of  box,  constructed  by  taking  6  light  pieces  of 
scantling,  3  inches  square,  one  for  each  corner  and  one 
for  the  centre  of  each  side  ;  to  which  boards  12  or  14 
inches  wide  and  12  or  15  feet  long  are  nailed  on  the 
bottom  of  the  posts  for  the  sides,  which  are  separated 
by  similar  boards,  3i  feet  long,  this  forms  the  width  of 
the  trough.  Boards  12  inches  wide  are  nailed  9  or  12 
inches  above  these  plank,  thereby  leaving  a  space  for 
the  sheep  to  reach  in  for  their  food,  and  yet  prevent 
them  from  ojettino;  on  it  with  their  feet.     The  eds^es  of 

DO  O 

ttie  upper  and  lower  boards  are  made  perfectly  smooth, 
to  prevent  chafing  the  wool. 

The  people  of  this  State  have  their  sheep  brought  in- 
to winter  quarters  soon  after  the  severe  frosts  occur, 
as  these  diminish  the  feed  and  materially  impair  i!:s 
nutritious  qualities.  They  are  also  removed  from  the 
grass  lands  before  they  become  permanently  softened 
by  the  rains,  as  they  will  injuriously  effect  their  com- 
fort and  health,  and  is  equally  objectionable  from  their 
poaching  the   sod.     The  chief  food   for   their  great 


)ther,  fas- 
>out  18  in- 
he  trough, 
eep,  there 
lorers.  The 
two  racks, 
25  degrees, 
d  near  the 
J  rack ;  this 
ich  falls  in 
imply  of  a 
t   pieces  of 
nerand  one 
Is  12  or  U 
died  on  the 
•e  separated 
he  width  of 
died  9  or  12 
a  space  for 
^et  prevent 
The  edges  of 
jctly  smooth, 


p  brought  in-  li 
frosts  occur, 
ly  impair  its 
ved  from  the 
tly  soflened 
ct  their  com- 
ble  from  their 
their  great 


I 


TjiLAtMEN'f  or  SUECr. 


261 


I 


jf  sheep  in  wintc^r,  is  ripe,  sound  timothy  hay. 


bean  and  pea  straw,  which  if  properly  cured,  they  pre- 
fer to  the  best  hay  ;  to  which  are  added  roots  of  various 
kinds,  with  a  full  supply  of  salt,  grain  being  seldom  fed 
to  stote-sheep,  and  then  no  other  than  Oats,  with  a  lull 
supply  of  good  straw,  as  grain  is  olyected  to  for  sheep, 
unless  attended  with  common  straw.     There  is  placed 
within  their  reach,  sulphur,  ashes,  tar  and  clay,  at  which 
they  frequently  nibble  when  their  stomach  required  ei- 
ther.    Pine  boughs  are  also  strongly  recommended,  not 
only   as  a   substitute  lor   tar,  but  as   airording  a   most 
healthful  change    in  the  winter  food  for    sheep*     It  is 
also  recommended  that  entire  cleanliness  and  dryness 
are  essential  to  the  health  of  ibe  flock.     Sheep  cannot 
long  endure  close  confinement  without  injury ;  there- 
fore the  greatest   attention  is  paid  by  these  people  to 
their  sheep*     In  all  ordinary  weather,  they  are  allow- 
ed to  fun  in  a  Well  enclosed  yard  attached  to  the  sheep- 
barn,  which  to  a  considerable  extent,  shields  them  from 
the  bleak  wtnds  of  those  northern  regions.     The  sheep 
when  brought  to  the  yards  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  are 
divided  into  flocks  of  50  to  100,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  yard   anci  sheep  barn.      The  young   and  feeble 
ones  are  separated  from  the  others,  and  the  ailing  ones 
placed  to  themselves,  so  that  no  one  may   suffer  from 
the  others;  all  are    classed  as  uniformly  as  possible,  as 
to  be  supplied  with  a  trough  of  water. 

The  Dairy  in  this  State,  receives  the  greatest  atten- 
tion as  it  has  long  been  celebrated  for  the  excellence 
of  its  butter  and  cheese.  The  southetn  stranger  views 
with  surprise,  the  extent  and  perfection  the  driiry  here 


1 


II 


4 

;f  J 


ii-m 


D  iV  1  R  V  . 

attains.     Hero  almost  every  dairyman  possesses  20,  30 
and  even  40  of  the  handsomest  and  most  valuable  cows  ; 
the  whole  of  which  in  winter  are  kept  in  good  stables, 
fed  on   roots,  and  good   hay,  and  when   straw  is   fed, 
some  meal  is  added,  so  as  to  make  the  keeping  equal  to 
good  hay.     From  the  1st  of  March  they  feed  about  2 
quarts  of  corn  or  barley  meal  to  each  cow  per  day,  un- 
til the  pasture  is  good  ;  and  during  the  summer  they  are 
put  up  morning  and  evening  in  a  milking  barn,  near  & 
convenient  to  the  cheese  room,  where  they  are  led  the 
whey  with  meal.     The  milk  barn  is  constructed  with 
an  alley  through  the   middle  ;  and  the  covvs  therefore 
stand  in  two  rows;  one  row  on  each  side  of  the  allev. 
The  whey    runs  from  a   box  or  cistern    in  the   cheese 
room,  into  a  vat  in  the  alley  of  the  milk  barn,  at  one 
end  of  which  is  a  meal  bin.     The  whey  and  meal  are 
mixed  and  put  in  troughs  on  the  right  and  left.     The 
head  of  the  alley  is  some  12  or  15  feet  from  the  cheese 
rooms  ;  over  this  distance  is  a  floor  laid  to  walk  on,  and 
a  roof  over  so  that  persons  can  pass  from  the  milk  baro 
to  the  cheese  room  and  milk  house  without  being  ex- 
posed to  rain  or   mud.     Milking  is  here  considered  a 
very  important  operation,  as  on  its  proper  performance 
depends  much  of  the  success  of  the  dairyman.     A  cow 
regularly,  gently,  yet  quickly  and  thoroughly  milked, 
will  give  much    more  than  if  neglected.     An  indiffer- 
ent milker  is  never  tolerated  in  a  herd,  by  these  cele- 
brated dairymen,  as  they  declare   that  good  ones  are 
cheaper  at  double  price. 

I  here  learned  for  the  first  time  that  activity  and  rest 
of  the   cow  have  a   great  effect   on  both  quantity  and 


il 


'  i 

Ct'l 

'  i 

wii 

anc 

-    I 

sai( 

i 

(]Ui 

wai 
])rol 


cor 

cus 

listj 

m 

ii-oi 

ach 

tie 

oCl 

TuEAT^lENT   OF   MILCU   COWS. 


263 


sscs  20,  30 
able  cows ; 
ood  stables, 
raw  is   fed, 
nor  equal  to 
;cd  about  2 
per  day,  un- 
ner  they  are 
barn,  near  & 
y  are  ted  the 
Lructed  with 
vvs  therefore 
of  the  alley, 
a  the   cheese 

barn,  at  one 
and  meal  are 
ad  left.     The 
Dm  the  cheese 
D  walk  on,  and 

the  milk  barQ 

lOut  being  ex- 
considered  a 
r  performance 
rman.  A  cow 
ughly  milked, 
An  indiffer- 
by  these  cele- 
o-ood  ones  are 

ictivity  and  rest 
h   quantity  and 


quality  of  the  milk.  It  is  here  declared,  the  less  ac- 
tion and  the  more  quiet  and  rest,  the  greater  the  a* 
mount  of  milk  and  better.  IJut  exercise  is  absolutely 
essential  to  the  production  of  cheese.  J3uttcr  may  be 
made  from  cows  confined  in  the  stable,  but  cheese  can 
only  be  profitably  made  by  animals  at  pasture.  It  is 
also  contended  that  excitement  or  Iretfulness,  change 
of  locality  or  to  a  di/Tercnt  herd,  with  new  companions, 
separation  from  her  calf,  periodical  heat,  annoyance 
from  flies,  or  worrying  from,  dogs,  exposure  to  stems, 
severe  cold  or  an  oppressive  sun,  and  many  similar  cau- 
ses, diminish  the  quantity  of  milk. 

The  mode  of  churning  butter  is  by  a  barrel-cliurn, 
lately  introduced  into  she  State.  This  is  placed  in  a 
trough  of  water  of  the  proper  temperature,  in  which 
the  churn  revolves  when  required,  and  thus  readily  re- 
ceives the  degree  of  heat  required  by  the  milk  or  cream, 
without  the  necessity  of  adding  warm  water  to  the  cream 
and  churns  the  whole  in  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  It  is 
said  also  to  give  a  larger  weight  of  butter  from  the  same 
quantity  of  milk.  The  churning  is  performed  slow  in 
warm  weather,  and  quick  in  cold  weather,  that  the 
proper  temperature  may  be  kept  up. 

The  cheese-room,  at  first  presented  to  me  a  scene  of 
considerable  interest.  In  making  the  rennet,  different 
J  customs  prevail.  The  most  common  custom,  however, 
[is  to  take  the  entire  stomach  and  to  pour  upon  them 
from  two  to  three  quarts  of  pure  water,  for  each  stom- 
ach, and  allow  them  to  infuse  for  several  days,  when 
|lhe  infusion  is  skimmed  and  strained,  and  a  decoction 
)f  leaves  added,   such  as  those  of  the  swqet-briar,   the 


LI 


;t;ti 

M 


i  f 


t,  ■  ' 


il 


li 


^64 


cUiitsii  iioo>t» 


,o,.-ose  ana  U.  -"l'''- -J^ot  cl^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
e.;,  while  others  '^Z^^- ^^^^^Z^  adopted  for  the 
brandy.     These  va--   P-*  ^    ,^,,,..  ,f  ...ening 

purpose  of  -f ;;;;S  '^^/^"ventiug  any  unpleasant  taste 
its  anpleasanl  smell,      p  ,,     .^p^o- 

,  ml.ht  give  to  ^f-"  Jj;«"=it  acidUy  of  the  lea- 
ving the  ^-]''\°^^'Z'  ,1^  the  coagulating  l>owe> 
on  will  no  doubt  .ncieaso   a  ^^^  _^^^,,^, 

of  any  rennet  to  ^vh.ch   t  inaj  •)  .^         ^^^ 

thus  prepared,  is  poured   nto  the  m  .^_     ^^^ 

^  to  the   temperature  of  90  die  ^^^  j^^ 

quantity    which  is   nece^ary  to  f  ^J;     ^^.^^  ,,  half  a 
quality  of  the   ^^^"^^y^Zlm     Th.  time  necessa- 

naked  fire,  owing  to  't«  §"="'  ^  ^^^^  ^^^^^  „,  I 

ged  or  fire-fanged ;  ^^-h      ^P   .^  ^^^^.^^^^ 
,he  cheese  more  o^^  ess  J     ^^^^^^^^       ^^^^.„  ,„, 

edina  '*'F  ^°"t ,,  Ifter  the  manner  of  a  glue  pel, 
within  an  '^o"  ^^^"  ?'  ^ '^  bein^  filled  with  water,  and 
the  space  between  ^^^'^°^l:,^^,^  ao  Injury  to  the 
can  never  by  any  ordinary  n  ,      ^^     ^^^  ^J 

„,,.     ,n  th^s  manner    ma^y  of  O^se^^^  ^^^^^ 

rymen  ^«™  *"„ ""T^.^nty-fivc  thousand  pounds  ol 

T'^  ^Tn  2  'i^^  wl^ch'they   receive  from  sU  . 
cheese  annuaiiy>   i*^*  i 

seven  cents  per  y^^^l^'       .     ^^  j^ihis  State  to  a  vet; 
staple  Sugar  is  manufa    -  d  ^^^  . 

onslderable  extent.     It  «3  esun    . 


"^ 


M  A  r  I,  i:  «-  I-  (.;  A  j{  . 


2[ij 


^eive  from  six  to 


is  over  1U,00(),OUO  )ljs.  annually  ;  mmicIi  of  which  h 
Kold  ill  the  city  of  .Now  Vurk.  In  .some  sections  of  the 
State,  tho  su;^^ar  maple  usurps  ahnost  the  entire  soil, 
standing  side  by  side,  like  thick  ranks  ofcorn,  yet  largw 
and  lofty,  and  among  the  noulest  specimens  of  the  for- 
est. Their  tops  are  graceful  and  bubhy  like  the  culti- 
vated tree,  and  hut  for  their  nuinhcrs,  the  extent  they 
occupy, and  their  more  picture;sque  grouping,  one  would 
think  the  hand  of  taste  had  directed  what  nature  alone 
"has  accomplished.  The  season  for  drawing  andchrys- 
taiizing  the  sap,  is  in  early  Spring,  when  the  bright 
sunny  d^iys  and  clear  frosty  nights  give  it  a  full  and 
lapid  circulation.  The  largest  trees  are  generally  se- 
lected and  tapped  by  an  inch  auger  to  the  depth  of  an 
inch  arill  a  half,  the  hole  inclining  downward  to  hold 
the  sap.  At  the  base  of  this,  another  is  made,  in  which 
a  tube  of  elder  or  sumach  is  closely  fitted  to  cor\duct  it 
off.  A  rude  contrivance  for  catching  the  sap  is  with 
troughs,  made  usually  of  easily  wrought  poplar.  When 
the  sugar  season  is  over,  the  holes, ?\re  closely  plugged 
and  the  head  cut  off  evenly  with  the  bark,  which  soon 
grows  over  the  wound  and  thus  preserves  the  tree  with- 
out any  apparent  injury.  The  barbarous,  slovenly 
mode  of  half  girdling  the  trunk  with  an  axe,  which 
soon  destroys  it,  is  here  never  performed.  The  sugar 
Qamps  .are  arranged  v^-ith  large  receiving  troughs,  pla- 
ced near  the  fires,  capable  of  holding  several  hundred 
gallons  of  sap,  and  the  boiling  kettles  suspended  on 'long 
poles,  supported  by  crotches.  The  sap  ;ls  strained  be- 
fore  hoiling,   and  well  skinuiied    while  boiling,  after 

"vhlch  it  is  again   slrained  and  put    into  a  tub  and  let 
^12 


i\ 


ill 
•  il 


1 


:J-i 


^ 


w 


i  '  :•''  'I 


i66 


ASPECT  OF  THE  STATE* 


stand  till  cold.  It  is  frequently  clarified  with  thowhitrs 
oi'fivo  or  six  e^gs,  well  beaten  in  about  a  quart  ofnetv 
milk,  and  a  spoonful  ol'salaeratus  to  each  100  lbs  of  su- 
gar. After  it  is  Avcll  granulated,  it  is  put  into  boxes 
made  smallest  at  the  bottom,  each  holding  about  50  lbs  j 
each  cask  box  having  a  false  bottom,  perforated  with 
small  holes,  for  the  piu'pose  of  draining  out  the  molai- 
ses.  The  various  aj)paratuses  and  processes  connected 
with  the  sugar-camp,  present  some  points  of  interest  to 
a  pei:son  unaccustomed  to  like  scenes. 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 


II  ii 


r  .4 


STATE  OF  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 

Aspect  of  the  State — Distant  View  of  the  White  Mountains — 
Villaf^es — White  Mountains — Mount  Washington — Ascent  to 
tlie  Summit — Sublime  Scenery — Notch- River  Saco-Uncqual- 
led  Character  of  the  Scenery — Course  of  the  River  Saco — Wild- 
noss  of  the  Region — Towns — Lake  Winnepiseogeo 

This  State  has  acquired  the  names  of  Granite  State 
and  the  Switzerland  of  America.  I  soon  found  her  to 
be  justly  entitled  to  both  of  the  above  names  ;  for  the 
traveller  from  other  States,  after  seeing  her  lofly  moun- 
tains, grand  lakes  of  fresh  water,  and  granite  quarries, 
will  at  once  acknowledge  that  both  of  the  titles  arejust- 
ly  hers.  The  country  on  the  coast  is  level,  but  in  the 
interior  the  surface  is  greatly  diversified  by  hills  and 
valleys. — And  at  a  distance  of  about  25  miles  from  the 
coast,  the  country  becomes  more  hilly  and  mountain- 
ous.    The  inhabitants  of  the  State  are  principally  en- 


WlllTU    MOINTAIN'S. 


267 


1 


II 


gaj^od  in  agriculture,  which  art,  I  think  they  urc  per- 
fectly master  of,  judj^ing  from  the  heavy  crops  of  rrtl 
kinds  of  grain  and  grass  which  cover  the  brows  of  the 
high  sloping  hills  which  meet  the  eye  on  every  side. 

(I'rafton  county, — I  now  travelled  in  an  eastern  di- 
rection for  the  White  Mountains,  whose  towerincr  sum- 
mits  stood  conspicuous  to  my  gazc^,  long  before  I  enter- 
ed the  imitate.  In  approaching  those  far-famed  moun- 
tains from  the  Connecticut  river,  I  passed  tlit-ough  the 
towns  of  Littleton  and  Ijetlileham,  the  former  with  1778 
inhabitants,  and  the  latter  with  about  1,000,  facing  the 
White  Mountains,  being  a  very  beautiful  little  villao-e, 
situated  about  half  way  between  the  Connecticut  river 
and  the  base  of  the  White  Mountains,  to  which  there 
is  a  very  good  stage  road. 

Coos  county, — The  scenery  in  the  celebrated  IVhite 
mountains  is  grand  beyond  description.  This  sublimd 
scene  consists  of  six  or  eight  towering  peaks,  distin- 
guished by  the  namesof  Washington,  Franklin,  Adams, 
Jefferson,  Madison,  Monroe  and  Pleasant.  The  high- 
est of  these  peaks  is  Mount  Washington,  which  is  6428^^ 
feet  in  height.  The  ascent  to  the  summit  of  this  Mount 
is  attended  with  considerable  fatigue  ;  but  the  wild  ancl 
sublime  character  of  the  scenery  induces  a  stranger  to* 
climb  upward  and  onward,  till  he  gains  the  summit 
when  all  is  richly  repaid,  and  his  fatigue  appearently 
in  a  moment  vanishes,  by  the  view  which  is  rendered 
uncommonly  grand  and  picturesque,  by  the  magnitude' 
of  the  elevation,  the  extent  and  variety  of  the  surroun- 
ding scenery,  which  is  wild,  picturesque  and  sublime 
on  every  hand.     To  an  admirer  of  the  wonders  of  Na- 


I 


I 


!^ 


fl! 


i 


ll 


u 


';      ■  :^ 


III  i 


i'  ?" 


268 


WKITIC    MOUNTAlXfi- 


'iure,  this  scene  truly  afibrds  a  rich  theme  for  cont^em- 
plation,  not  only  a  view  irom  the  siimirjit  with  its  huge 
and  desolate  piles  of  rock,extending  to  a  great  distance 
in  every  direction  far  beneath  your  feet,  but  also  a  pas- 
sage through  the  notch,  which  is  equally  interesting  to 
a  student  of  nature. 

The  far-farned  Notch  of  the  White  Mountains, ^is  sit- 
uated at  the  western  pass.     Here  the  mountain  seems 
to  be  divided  into  two  parts  from  the  top  to  the  bottom. 
This  deep  narrow  chasm  is  about  two  miles  long,  and 
affords  a   passage,  through  which    the  river  Saco  rujjs 
^which  is  joined  below  the  N.otch  by  Lawyers  river.-4- 
Through  the  Notch  there  is  a  road  constructed,  which 
'is  the  only  practicable    route  for   carriages  across  the 
mountain  barrier.     Though  fatii^iuino;  as  it  is  to  climb 
=■10  the  summits  of  these  famous  mountains,  hundreds  of 
travellers  visit  the  State  every  year  to  enjoy  the  mag- 
nificent prospect  from   the  top  of  Mount  Washington, 
•while  thunder  storms  are  often  seen  far  beneath  their 
•feet.     But  they  can  stand  upon  this  towering  pinnacle, 
and  view   with  perfect  safety,  the  grand  and  sublime 
display  of  Nature,  which  for  the  kind  are  perhapswith 
Hhe  exception  of  the  Andes  in  South  America,  without 
a  parallel  on  the  Western  Hemisphere. 

The  air  on  the  summits  of  these  great  mountains  is 
generally  cold  and  chilling  to  the  stranger.  This  is 
'however  not  to  be  wondered  at  as  they  are  crowned 
-with  snow  for  about  ten  months  in  the  j^ear.  Down 
the  Saco  river,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  princi- 
pal group  of  mountains,  is  situated  the  town  of  Bartlet, 
CQJitaining  a  population  of  70(!.     At  this  place  a  con- 


'2\0 


tsjdicrable  mountain  L'ireani  oiiis  the  river  Sacu,  \v!io?e 
seneral  course  iVoui  the  tjcti  h  to  tlu'  \i{!a:''t'  is  ricar-v 
due  east ;  behnv  which  'it  U  a^ain  juiMCti  \>y  anoihi  r 
consick'rable  stroam,  wiieii  \i  heiulj  its  rour>e  nearly 
due  south,  tiil  it  is  ivjiiu-d  bv  Swiii  river,  wiicii  ita-'wiu 
runs  east  into  the  Siatc  ol'IMuiiir. 


Carrol  co:/?iljj. — 7'he  next  ^iila:^^  oii  the  river  Sa 


CO. 


is  the  beauliru.l  lilt'o  villa^j?  ofConvv-ay,  located  on  the 
ri^-ht  bank  of  th.3  riv(>r,  7  iiiil.-j  below  tho  town  oi'Bart- 
let.  Eich  of  fne^e  ^i!Ia^es  ij  situated  in  a  \vi!d  and 
rugged  region  of  country,  possessing  no  attractions  in 
the  a2;riculturdl  v.fav  i  vet  the  wild  and  sublime  char- 
acter  of  the  mountains  is  admired  by  all.     To  the  soutli 


ofth 


e  viliaa'e  of  Conwav,  is 


thv^  t 


own  o 


fOs 


SSI  pee,  w 


•ith 


a  popuLation    ol  2170,    situated  near    \Vinnepiseog(H^ 
lake  on  the  southern  border  of  the  county. 

Lake  VVinnepisecgee  i'S  truly  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful lakes  of  water  tfiat  our  country  can  produce;  im- 
bosomrn^  numerous  islands  and  surrounded  bv  a  conn- 
try  abounding  in  romantic  scenery.  A  ride  down  this 
lake  which  is  2i  miles  long,  will  repay  the  expense 
tenfold.  I  very  much  doubt  v.'belher  thi.s  bcauliful 
lake  has  a  parallel  on  the  face  of  the  Clobe,  so  far  as  T 
have  been  able  to  learn  respecting  the  lak(^s  of  Kurope 
and  other  poittons  of  the  world.  I  think  1  am  safe  in 
advancing  that  the  beauty  of  lake  AVinnepiseog(H^  (ov 
exceeds  that  of  the  iamous  Lock  I^omond,  of  Scotland 
itself. 


Jlsl 


tl 


;  I 


i  '! 


I 


i 


270 


ASPECT    OF    TUK    STATIf^ 


C  II  A  P  T  E  R    XXV. 

STATE  OF  IViAIME. 

Aspoct  of  the  State — Seba^o  Pond — Towns — Portl;tnd — Streets 
— Uity  Hail— Custom  House — Churches — Athenaeum — Har- 
bor— Fortilicatioiis — Break  Wale" — Li'l't  House — ObHcrvato- 
ry — Commerce — TuMle  Slicll- Railroad  i'/rid^e-Hotel-Stcani" 
er  General  VVan''cij — lOifocts  of  the  Sea  Iweezc — Cities — Au- 
gusta— State  House — Arsenal — Towns — Batigor — Manufac- 
tures—  [iridg'o — Lumber — Theological  Seminary — Old  Town 
— Calaip — Dense  Fogs — llivcr  St.  Cro.x — I'orests — St.  An- 
drew's — Fisheries — St.  John — WJiarves — -Lunucr — Ship 
Building' — Coal-Fiolds. 

Sjon  after  entering  the  State  of  Maine,  the  most  nor- 
thern anil  eastern  of  the  United  Slates,  I  found  the  face 
of  the  country  pretty  generilly  either  uiuln'atin:^  oi- 
hilly,  except  the  coast  alono;  the  southern  p:u*t  of  it 
which  is  tolerable  level.  The  population  is  chiefly  in 
the  southern  section,  within  (50  or  70  miles  of  the  coat>t  : 
as  the  central  parts  of  the  State  contain  numerous 
mountains,  and  a  lar^e  portion  of  it  as  yet  remains  a 
forest,  which  the  inhabitants  consider  valuable  ior  its 
lumbei',  which  is  one  of  the  chief  products  of  the  coun- 
try. The  soil  is  various ;  much  of  it  is  however  fertile, 
but  in  general  it  is  better  adapted  for  grazing  than  til- 
lage ;  you  will  however  observe  some  good  farms  high- 
ly cultivated.  The  coast  is  remarkably  indented  with 
bays  and  harbors,  afFording  great  facilities  for  commerce 
and  fijhci.ies,  which  the  inhabitants  engage  in  very  ex- 
tensively. 

Cuj^hciiand  county, — The  firwt  object  worthy  of  no- 
tjce  after  entering  this  county,  was  Sebago  Poud,  s\i\\i 


'I 


PORTLAND   CITY. 


271 


Si  reels 

-tJar- 
fscrvato- 

Stcam- 
es — Au- 

anufac- 
1  Town 
St.  An- 
■ — Sliij) 

)st  nor- 
he  face 
\\n^  or 
rt  of  it 
'w{\y  i:i 
J  coa:st  : 
imerous 
nains  a 
I  for  its 
e  coun- 
'  fertile, 
lan  til- 
is  high- 
?d  with 
nmei'ce 
ery  ex- 


y^ofno- 

d,  s^tu^      [   , 


:.-  * 


ated  about  12  miles  with  its  southern  extremity,  from 
the  city  of  Portland.  This  famous  Pond,  so  lar  as  I 
couldjudge,  is  about  7  or  8  miles  long  from  north  to 
south  and  about  4  miles  wide  ;  the  waters  of  which  are 
drawn  out  r»t  the  south-eastern  side  of  the  pond  by  the 
Presumpscut  river,  which  carries  its  waters  with  oth- 
ers into  the  Bay  of  Casco  ;  which  are  admired  for  their 
transparency.  Between  Sebago  Pond  and  the  city  of 
Portland,  is  the  town  of  Gorham,  with  a  population  of 
3011,  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Pond,  and  is  a  very 
flourishing  town,  containing  some  fine  dwellings  and 
several  handsome  churches.  Within  6  miles  of  the 
city  of  Portland  is  the  village  of  Sacarappa,  which  is 
really  a  pleasant  little  place. 

Portland,  with  a  population  of  152 IS,  is  very  beau- 
tifully situated  on  Casco  Bay,  I  •14'  miles  north  east  of 
the  city  of  Boston.  The  city  of  Portland  occupies  high 
and  commanding  ground.  The  city  was  entirely  de- 
stroyed by  the  British  in  1775,  and  the  present  city 
did  not  receive  a  charter  until  the  year  1832;  and  is 
now  a  very  beautiful  place,  being  regularly  laid  out;  the 
streets  are  broad  and  handsomely  ornamented  with  shade 
trees  of  the  choicet  species.  The  public  buildings  are 
a  City  Hall,  a  large  and  splendid  granite  structure,  sur- 
mounted by  a  dome,  which  can  be  ascended  with  ease 
jiud  safety,  and  an  excellent  view  of  the  city  is  there- 
by obtained.  A  large  and  elegant  Custom  House  con- 
structed of  granite,  is  situated  conveniently  to  the  har- 
bor, which  is  a  structure  celebrated  for  it.^  strength  and 
the  beauty  of  its  architecture.  A  Court  House,  a  hand-* 
some  granite  edifice,  is  situated  on  very  beautiful  ground, 


'272 


roRTi.AND  nrv. 


■ir'i 


which  is  tastefully  laid  out  and  adorned  with  shade 
trees  of  a  rare  species.  There  are  here  6  Banks  and 
16  large  and  splendid  churches,  some  of  which  are 
constructed  of  granite,  some  of  brick,  and  others  are 
frame,  highly  finished  and  whitened.  The  Atheneuni, 
at  this  place  contains  upwards  of  5000  volumes. 

The  city  has  a  mosi.  splendid  harbor,  defended  by  two 
forts,  situated  on  high  and  commanding  ground,  so  that 
every  foot  ol  space  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  could 
oe  raked  by  the  cross-fireing  from  these  fortifications. 
The  entrance  of  the  harbor  is  also   protected  by  two 
long  and  powerful  stone  piers,,  constructed  as  a  Break- 
water to  defend  the  vessels  while  in  the  harbor  from 
floatino;  ice,  and  the  hi2"h  waves  from  the  Ocean.  There 
is  also  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  a  stone  light-house, 
built  to  the    height  of  72  feet,   from  the  top  of  which 
there  is  a  delightful  view  of  the  Bay  and  the  Ocean  be- 
yond', when  the  fogs  will  permit  a  view,  wbrcli  how- 
ever were  so  dense,  a  large  portion  of  the  time  I  re- 
mained in  the  city,   that  a  distant   view  of  no   object 
could  be  had  with   distinctness.     There  is  also  an  Ob- 
servatory erected  on  high  and  commanding  ground,  a 
short  distance  above  the  city  ;  it  is  constructed  of  tim- 
ber, 70  feet  in  height,  and  shingled  from  the  ground  to 
tlti6  top;  the  summit  is   gained  by  ascending  a  circular 
stair-case  within,  and  when  the  summit  is  gained,  it  af- 
fords a  lovely  prospect   on  a  clear  day,  of  the  whole 
city  and  the  surrounding  waters  and  lands. 

The  city  has  an  extensive  foreign  and  coasting  trade  ; 
the  inhabitants  are  also  very  extensively  enp-aoredin  the 
fisheries.     On  her  numcicor»s  loner  wharves  the  strang-ev 


WllAR-VliS    AND    feTKKKT. 


»/ 1 1 » 


lYiay  see  fish  of  almost  every  kind,  without  nuiiibor 
from  five  pounds  weight  up  to  sixty  and  seventy  pounds, 
together  with  ship  loads  of  oysters  and  lobsters  with 
numerous  turtles,  many  weighing  over  100  pounds  each. 
On  the  main  street  of  the  city,  a  few  doors  south  of  the 
United  States  Hotel,  I  saw  a  turtle  shell  suspended  o- 
ver  the  door  of  an  oyster  saloon,  which  contained  the 
figures  221,  in  large  and  conspicuous  characters  to  point 
out  to  the  passing  stranger  the  weight  of  the  turtle. 

To  the  north*east  of  the  city,  there  is  a  railroad  bridgp 
one  mile  and  a  quarter  in  length,  constructed  over  an 
estuary  of  the  Bay,  over  which  thcr-  are  two  railway 
tracks,  which  is  the  property  of  the  Company  construct- 
ing a  railroad  from  the  city  of  Toitland  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence in  Lower  Canada,  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a 
connection  with  the  city  of  Montreal.  This  hridge  has 
a  causeway  of  about  300  yards  at  each  end  ;  and  be- 
tween the  causeways  it  is  built  of  timber  being  suppor- 
ted by  thousands  of  pillars  ;  on  which  the  tide  rises  a- 
bout  8  feet,  twice  a  day.  The  bridge  is  so  constructed 
in  the  centre  as  to  permit  of  being  opened  for  ships  to 
pass  through  to  the  north  part  of  the  city.  The  part 
of  the  bridge  which  opens  is  on  the  principles  of  a  door 
upon  its  hinges,  and  the  apparatus  by  which  the  open- 
ing is  effected  is  on  the  order  of  a  common  jack-screw. 
A  man  on  ttie  bridge,  by  means  of  an  iron  lever  opens 
the  tracks  to  the  right  and  left,  similar  to  two  barn 
doors  opening  from  each  other.  The  man  by  simply 
turning  his  lev^r  in  a  reverse  direction  wheels  the 
tracks  inwards  to  their  proper  places,  then  raises  his  le- 
ver out  of  its  locket  and  drops  it  on  the  floor,  when  all 
If)* 


<!  M 


[. 


;   i 


!•! 


^^ijjgg^.: 


271. 


It  0  T  E  L  . 


^il 


l> 


is  again  rrady  for  iho  cars  to  pass  on  either  track. 
While  in  this  city,  I  had  the  misfortune  of  getting 
the  worst  fare  of  any  place  during  the  whole  of  my 
tour.  The  first  Hotel  at  which  I  put  up  after  my  arri- 
val in  the  city  was  kept  by  a  foreigner  ;  the  appearance 
of  the  House  might  be  called  tolerable  ;  I  however  was 
not  a  little  surprised  when  called  to  the  table  to  which 
I  seated  myself  with  more  reluctance  than  to  any  I  ev- 
er seated  myself  in  all  my  life;  the  bread  and  butter 
which  thev  bouo;ht  and  therefore  had  no  hand  in  ma- 
king  or  preparing,  was  good,  which  I  could  make  out 
to  swallow  by  not  looking  at  the  other  dishes  on  the 
table;  which  consisted  in  part  of  one  very  large  dish  in 
the  centre  of  the  table,  which  to  all  appearance  con- 
I'^ined  Irish  potatoes,  clams,  oysters,  lobsters,  bread,  pork, 
beef,  fish,  mutton,  fowl,  cabbage,  carrots, squashes, beans^ 
tomatoes,  onions,  garlic  and  the  Lord  knows  what  else, 
all  boiled  together,  and  heaped  on  this  mammoth  dish, 
which  emitted  a  vapor  or  steam  almost  equal  to  a  small 
coal-pit.  By  the  smell  Df  this  multifarious  hotch-potch, 
I  presume  it  would  have  made  very  little  difference 
which  was  selected,  as  the  probability  is  they  all  tas- 
ted alike  ;  beef  tasted  like  mutton  and  mutton  like  beef, 
oysters  were  onions  and  the  onions  were  oysters ;  cab- 
bages were  carrots  and  the  carrots  cabbages.  This  dish 
was  surrounded  by  several  other  dishes  which  contain- 
ed cold  beans,  which  were  thatstiffand  toueh  that  a  man 
might  as  well  have  attempted  to  digest  a  quart  oftrain 
oil.  After  rising  from  the  table,  I  like  Bruce,  of  course 
paid  the  bill  and  quit  the  inn. 
The  steamer  General  \yarren  now  carried  us  to  the 


CITIES. 


i>75 


city  of  Augusta,  the  Capital  of  the  State.  This  was 
the  only  route  where  the  sea  breeze  e/Tectcd  me  •.  and 
so  violent  were  the  effects  that  I  was  compelled  to  keep 
my  berth,  and  remain  within  the  State  room  during  the 
sailing  of  the  Steamer.  Much  of  my  sickness  I  attrib- 
uted to  the  rocking  of  the  steamer,  which  exceeded  ev- 
ery other  boat  in  rocking,  rolling  and  plunging  through 
the  agitated  billows,  that  I  witnessed  during  tlie  whole 
of  my  voyages  ;  though  in  every  way  a  very  splendid 
boat  manned  by  an  excellent  crew.  The  narrowness 
of  its  construction,  J  considered  one  great  cause  of  its 
being  more  easily  rocked  to  and  fro  by  the  waves. 

Our  Steamer  stopped  at  the  port  of  the  city  of  Bath, 
which  contains  a  population  of  5141  inhabitants.  The 
city  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  left  bank  oftheKen- 
nebeck  river,  about  15  miles  from  the  Ocean  and  below 
the  juncture  of  the  Androscoggin  river  with  the  Kea- 
nebeck,  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  the  largest  class 
of  ships.  This  place  is  celebrated  for  its  ship  building, 
which  is  here  carried  on  very  extensively.  A  lew 
hours  spent  at  this  place  cannot  fail  to  be  interesting  & 
instructive. 

Kennebeck  county. — The  next  place  at  which  we 
touched  was  at  the  city  of  Gardiner,  containing  a  pop- 
ulation of  5042.  This  is  a  very  beautiful  city,  built 
on  the  left  bank  oi  the  river,  containing  some  very 
handsome  buildings ;  among  which  are  several  of  the 
most  splendid  churches  to  be  found  in  New  England. 
The  town  is  situated  in  a  fertile  and  delightful  region 
of  country,  possessing  many  inviting  points.  Soon  af- 
ter leaving  Gardiner,  we  touched  at  the  pier  of  Hallo- 


IM 


:!': 


f 


t  » 


27(J 


CITli:S    AND    TO\Vi\S» 


iii'i^: 


Avell,  situated  2  miles  helow  the  Capitol.  This  phcc 
is  famous  for  its  splondid  granite  and  marble,  amoncr 
the  vast  heaps  of  which  the  stranger  if  not  cautious, 
would  almost  lose  his  way. 

Auoiusta,  the  Capital  of  the  State,  contains  a  popula- 
tion of  5.31  G.  The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  about  50  miles  from  its  mouth  at  the 
head  of  Sloop  navigation,  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  and 
handsome  region  of  country.  The  city  contains  a  very 
splendid  State  House,  constructed  of  granite  in  a  neat, 
elerr^xni  and  tasteful  manner  ;  the  site  beins;  adorned  with 
beau'iful  shade  trees.  The  United  States  Arsenal  at 
this  place,  presents  objects  which  may  be  vic^ved  for 
an  hour  or  two  with  considerable  interest.  At  this 
place  there  is  constructed  a  strong  and  powerful  dam  a- 
cross  the  Kennebeck  river,  which  has  created  numer- 
ous excellent  mill  sites,  a  portion  of  which  are  occupi- 
ed b}^  mills  of  various  sorts ;  with  more  than  a  due  por- 
tion of  Saw  Mills  where  vast  quantities  of  lumber  may 
be  seen  all  of  an  excellent  quality.  Vast  lorests  are 
said  to  exist  to  the  north  of  the  Capital. 

Waldo  county. — Between  the  Capital  and  the  Pe- 
nobscot Bay,  in  a  due  easterly  direction,  were  the  towns 
of  Windsor,  and  Liberty,  Belmont  nnd  Belfast ;  the  three 
first  having  a  population  of  about  2000  inhabitants  each, 
and  the  latter  upwards  of  4000,  being  a  chartered  city, 
located  on  the  Penobscot  Bay  near  its  iiead,  possessing 
a  delightiul  harbor.  The  city  has  considerable  trade 
which  is  chiefly  in  fish  and  lumber.  It  possesses  many 
attractions  for  an  eastern  port,  having  a  lertile  section 
of  country,  stretching  back  to  the  westward  which  pre- 


^-sl 


C  I  T  I  K  ?!  . 


sentecl  an  attractive  appearance  from  the  city  and  riv- 
er. From  the  pier  at  Belfast,  a  Steamer  took  us  up  the 
Penobscot  river  for  the  city  of  Bangor.  When  about 
to  enter  the  mouth  of  the  river  \vc  could  see  Castine 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  head  of  the  Bay,  beautifully 
situated  on  a  fine  peninsula,  noted  for  its  military  posi- 
tion. Up  the  river  are  the  beautiful  cities  of  Backs- 
port  and  Frankford,  each  having;  about  5000  inhabit- 
ants. In  sailing  up  the  river  we  could  see  vast  quan- 
tities of  lumber  at  certain  points,  besides  great  quanti- 
ties which  were  regularly  passing  us  ;  we  being  scarce- 
ly ever  out  of  sig-ht  of  lumber  ships. 

The  city  of  Bangor,  with  a  population  of8627,  is  sit- 
uated on  the  left  bank  of  the  Penobscot  river.  The 
city  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  the  Kenduskcag  riv- 
er, which  forms  a  junction  with  the  former  river  at 
this  place.  The  Kenduskeag  having  here  a  very  con- 
siderable fall,  affords  a  vast  water  power  which  iji  ap- 
plied to  manufacturing  purposes.  This  city  is  the  chief 
seat  of  the  lumber  trade  :  immense  quantities  of  the 
very  best  of  lumber  are  rafted  down  the  river  from  this 
place.  The  lumber  trade  is  said  to  be  a  source  of  great 
wealth  to  those  engaged  in  it.  It  is  an  enterprise 
which  seems  almost  inexhaustible,  as  vast  forests  of  ex- 
cellent timber  abound  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State, 
and  particularly  toward  the  source  of  the  Penobscot 
river.  The  city  contains  some  fine  buildings  private  & 
public ;  among  the  public  buildings  may  be  named  the 
Bangor  Theological  Seminary,  opened  in  1816,  origi- 
nally called  the  Maine  Charity  School  ;  it  being  under 
the  direction  of  Cono-refjationalists. 


m\ 


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i'  li  1' 

ii  II  ■' 

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Kuf  B 

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i  i  i 

278 


CITIES. 


■'^''^  iiiiiil 


•m 


Bangor  is  well  situated  lor  trade,  the  Penobscot  be- 
ing  navigable  to  this  place  for  the  largest  vessels.  There 
is  here  a  bridoje  across  the  river  which  is  1320  A.  ioii", 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $50,000. 

A  Railroad  of  11  miles  in  length,  connects  Old  Tcwn 
with  Bangor,  passing  through  Orono  a  town  of  1521 
inhabitants,  vhich  little  place  is  famous  for  its  numer- 
ous Saw-Mills.  Feitile  and  delightful  belts  of  land 
border  on  the  Penobscot  river,  which  have  the  appear- 
ance of  being  highly  and  advantageously  cultivated. — 
Old  Town  is  situated  on  an  Island  in  the  Penobscot 
river,  about  40  miles  from  its  mouth  ;  more  usually 
known  by  the  name  of  Indian  Old  Town,  noted  as  be- 
ing the  spot  upon  which  the  Penobscot  Indians  took 
up  their  abode  after  their  defeats  and  almost  utter  de- 
struction by  the  white  people  of  the  Colony:  who  left 
only  the  remnant  of  about  three  hundred  persons  of  that 
powerful  tribe  of  Indians,  owing  to  their  brutal  obsti- 
nacy, and  the  savage  massacres  they  inflicted  on  the 
people  of  the  Colony.  The  country  between  Old  Town 
and  Calais,  possesses  few  attractions.  Calais  is  a  town 
of  2924  inhabitants,  at  the  lower  falls  of  the  St.  Croix, 
and  is  noted  for  its  numerous  saw-mills,  and  its  immense 
traffic  in  lumber  which  is  here  sawed  and  shipped  to 
the  various  ports  of  the  New  England  States.  In  con- 
tinuing our  course  east  from  this  place,  we  arrived  in 
the  Province  of  New  Bruswick.  The  nearer  we  ap- 
proached St.  John's  the  denser  became  the  fog  which 
rendered  travelling  somewhat  unpleasant  as  well  as 
dangerous ;  because  the  fog  at  times  was  so  dense  that 
the  pilots  of  boats  could  not  see  the  lights  or  lamps  on 


f     eries 


.\EW    liRUNbWICK. 


279 


5C0t    1)1'- 

'J'here 

it.  lor)g, 

d  T(>\vii 
of  1521 
numor- 
of  land 
appear- 
vated. — 
enobscot 
usually 
L'd  as  b(.'- 
ans  took 
itter  de- 
who  left 
IIS  of  that 
tal  obsti- 
d  on  the 
)Id  Town 
s  a  town 
>t.  Croix, 
immense 
ipped  to 
In  con- 
rived  in 
*  we  ap- 
g  which 
;  well  as 
'nse  that 


amps 


on 


the  boats  till  thoy  come  almost  in  contact  with  each 
other,  much  less  could  th^y  see  the  li^ht-house  with 
its  lamp,  which  is  placed  t9  guide  them  round  danger- 
ous points,  which  is  rendered  still  more  dangerous,  ow- 
ing to  the  coast  of  the  State  of  Maine  and  the  Province 
of  New  Brunswick  being  so  remarkably  indented  with 
Bays  and  Harbors. 

The  colony  is  situated  to  the  east  of  the  State  of  Maine, 
separated  from  it  by  the  St.  Croix  river  for  a  consider- 
able distance  on  the  west.  The  colony  is  but  partial- 
ly cleared,  and  contains  extensive  forests  which  furnish 
large  quantities  ot  excellent  timber.  The  soil  along  the 
banks  of  the  river  St.  John  is  of  an  excellent  quality, 
and  is  said  to  be  of  a  good  quality  throughout  the  pro- 
vince. Owing  to  the  dense  fogs  I  did  not  examine 
the  country  off  from  the  river  St.  John. 

The  city  ol  St.  Andrews  containing  a  population  of 
about  20,000,  situated  at  the  head  of  Passammaquoddy 
Bay,  is  a  place  of  great  trade  in  lumber,  and  is  the  sec- 
ond city  in  trade  and  population  in  New  Brunswick. — 
There  are  many  of  its  inhabitants  employed  in  the  fish- 
eries ;  and  perhaps  an  equal  number  in  the  lumber 
trade,  which  is  carried  on  to  a  great  extent ;  which  is 
the  chief  article  of  export,  from  which  the  population 
of  the  city  derive  their  principal  support;  which  to- 
gether with  the  fisheries  constitutes  almost  the  sole  sup- 
port of  the  inhabitants  of  the  place  as  well  as  many,  o- 
ther  cities  and  towns  in  the  Province,  which  is  said  to 
render  ample  reward  to  all  engaged  in  it.  The  city  ol 
St.  Johns,  with  a  population  of  25000,  is  the  most  im- 
portant city  in  New  Brunswick:  it  is  beautifully  situa- 


i-i  I 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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► 

Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WFST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


280 


ST.    JOHN    f ;  I  T  V . 


I 


ted  on  a  fine  Bay,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Johi:, 
The  city  has  a  very  extensiife  commerce,  and  is  verv 
largely  engaged  in  the  fisneries  and  the  lumber  trade. 
The  fisheries  are  a  source  of  considerable  wealth,  and 
employ  many  of  the  inhabitants.  The  stranger  can seo 
scores  and  hundreds  of  fishing  smacks  and  boats  ajv 
proach  the  wharves  when  they  come  sufficiently  near 
to  be  seen  for  the  fog  which  obscures  them  till  wifcliin 
a  few  rods  of  the  landing,  all  of  which  are  always  loa- 
ded with  the  finest  of  fishes. — The  lumber  trade  is 
also  a  source  of  oreat  wealth  ;  vast  quantities  of  timber 
are  cut  down  in  n'inter  and  draorged  on  the  snow  to  the 

CO 

river,  where  it  is  formed  into  rafts  on  the  ice,  and  float- 
ed down  when  the  ice  m.elts  in  the  Spring.  Ship-build- 
incr  is  also  carried  on  to  a  o-reat  extent  which  is  ot  it- 

D  O 

self  a  considerable  curiosity,  in  seeing  the  subjects  of 
the  already  Queen  of  the  Ocean,  rearing  their  scores 
of  ships  amid  a  great  dockyard,  rendered  rugged  with 
lumber  of  the  best  quality. 

Before  my  arrival  at  the  city  of  St.  Johns,  my  idea 
^▼as  to  ascend  the  river  St.  John  to  Fredericktown,tho 
Capital  of  tfie  Province  j  but  owing  to  the  unpleasant 
fogs  which  would  obscure  more  or  Jess  the  scenery  for 
85  miles  up  each  bank  of  the  river  I  declined  the  idea, 
and  contented  myself  with  going  no  farther  into  the 
Province  than  to  some  of  the  coal  fields  near  at  hand, 
which  are  wrought  to  a  considerable  extent ;  but  owing 
to  the  inclemency  of  the  weather,  the  scenery  did  not 
repay  very  richly  the  fatigue  and  exposures  attending 
the  visit ;  we  therefore  returned  to  the  city  and  again 
viewed  the  great  theatre  of  lumber  and  fish  among  which 


KAY    or    r[M)V. 


•281 


•er  St.  Johi). 

and  is  verv 
umber  trado. 

wealth,  and 
anger  can  see 


coulil  be  seen  «0Mie  points  of  attraction,  which  were 
not  only  cnterlainiii;^  t)ut  to  some  extent  instructive. 
Hut  we  soon  jrot  tired  ol  hjm'xn-  and  fi!^!l,  and  prepared 
to  cross  the  cek-brated  Bay  of  Fiuul y  i'oi  the  Province 
of  Nova  Scotia. 


Clf  A  P  T  E  R    X  X  V  I  . 


NOVA   SCOTIA. 

Bay  ofFunily — A?oniiisula  of  Xuva  Scotia — Amulpoli^! — Clifls — 
Itnd  Mud— Foot  I'liiits  of  Birds— Muddy  waters  oftlic  Bay  of 
Fundy — Cape  Blomidon — lli^li  Tides  ofilie  Bity  (jf  Fundy — 
The  ]}uro — Awtul  grandeur  of  the  Bore — Einbankincnts — 
Cliffs  of  Sandstone — I'.irallel  Furrows  in  Sandstone — Latitude 
— Masses  of  Jco — Basiu  of  Mines — Minurndie — Clitfs  of  Soutli 
Joijjrins — Ileii^Iit  oftlieClilf — Grindstone  Ledges — Frect  Fos- 
sil Trees — Coal  Seams — V  arioiis  Ledges  of  the  Clifl' — Number 
of  Fossil  Trees — Destructive  Action  ef  the  Tides  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy — Hasty  Conclusion  as  to  the  formation  of  the  Clifl'. 

The  o;rcat  Bav  of  Fiindv  is  situated  between  New 
Bninsvvick  and  ISova  Scotia,  and  ahnost  cuts  off  the 
latter  from  the  main  land:  and  therefore  forming  Nova 
Scotia  into  a  large  peninsula  ITSO  nnles  long  and  from 
f)0  to  a  100  miles  wide,  'i'he  Jky  of  Fundy  is  cele- 
brated for  its  tides,  which  rise  GO  and  70  feet  in  per- 
pendicular height ;  and  so  rapid  is  its  rise  that  even 
cattle  feeding  on  the  shore  are  overtiiken  very  often  &, 
drowned.  The  tide  often  comes  up  at  first  with  a  lof- 
ty wave  called  the  Bore.  The  waters  are  of  a  red  mud- 
dy color  throughout  the  whole  Bay  ;  but  rather  more 
muddy  along  the  shores,  perhaps  ovting  to  the  impeta- 


• 

f 

i 

m 

.^^^ 

m 


i\ 


282 


JJAY    OF    FUNDY. 


t  ,:4'' 


osity  ol  its  waves  which  become  charged  with  red  sod. 
iment  by  undermining  clifls  of  red  sandstone  and  soft 
red  marl  of  which  the  banks  are  composed. 

Nova  Scotia  is  situated  south-east  of  New  Brunswick 
and  usually  known  to  strangers  by  its  least  favorable 
side  owing  to  its  being  enveloped  in  a  dense  fog  a  large 
portion  of  the  year ;  it  has  nevertheless  the  merit  ol  af- 
fording some  ol  the  best  harbors  in  the  world.  Its  nor- 
thern coast  also  contains  some  verv  fertile  sections  of 
lands  well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  wheat  and  oth- 
er grains ;  potatoes  of  the  finest  quality  are  raised  in 
vast  quantities.  The  face  of  the  country  is  generally 
undulating,  and  more  than  half  the  southern  portion 
of  the  peninsula  consists  ol  granite  rocks. 

Annapolis,  a  flourishing  city  situated  on  a  fine  hai'- 
bor  nearly  opposite  the  city  of  St.  Johns,  has  consider- 
able trade,  which  is  however  chiefly  in  the  fisheries. 
At  this  place  commence  a  range  of  cliffs  of  soft  sand- 
stone, capped  by  a  mass  of  basalt,  and  greenstone. — 
This  mass  presents  fine  ranges  of  rude  columns  in  the 
bold  precipices,  facing  northwards  and  running  many 
miles  east  and  west. 

Wolfville,  a  town  situated  off  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
northeast  from  the  city  of  Annapolis,  is  well  built  and 
located  on  a  fine  site.  The  principal  object  of  attrac- 
tion at  this  place,  is  the  red  mud  along  the  shore  of  the 
bay,  the  upper  surface  of  which  is  usually  smooth,  ex- 
cept in  some  places  it  is  pitted  over  with  small  cavi- 
ties, which  I  was  informed  was  due  to  showers  of  rain 
which  fell  regularly  every  day  ;.  at  least  during  my  stay. 
In  addition  to  the  smaller  cavjties  due  to  rain,  thcrp 


FooTPniNTs  OP    nnii)?. 


'2S'A 


were  larger  ones,  more  perfectly  circular,  about  the 
size  of  a  rifle-ball,  which  have  been  lormed  by  air  bub- 
bles in  the  mud,  which  presented  a  singular  appearance. 

A  little  farther  up  the  Bay  could  be  seen  worm-like 
tracks,  made  by  Annelides,  which  burrow  in  the  mud, 
and  what  was  still  more  interesting  to  me,  the  distinct 
footmarks  of  birds  in  regular  sequence,  faithfully  rep- 
resenting in  their  general  appearance,  the  smaller  class 
of  Ornithicnites.  I  learned  from  my  guide,  an  intelli- 
gent peasant  of  the  neighborhood,  that  these  recent 
footprints  were  those  oi  the  Sandpiper,  a  species  com- 
mon to  North  AmcM'ica;  flights  of  which  could  be  seen 
daily  running  along  the  water's  edge,  and  often  leaving 
this  and  forty  similat  impressions  in  astraight  line,  and 
in  many  places  parallel  with  the  waters  of  the  Bay. — 
My  guide  also  informed  me,  that  after  the  foggy  sea- 
son is  over,  the  heat  of  the  sun  will  cause  the  red  mud 
to  crack  in  hardening  during  the  intervals  of  the  rising: 
tide,  and  divides  the  muu  into  compartments  similar  to 
the  clay  we  see  at  the  bottom  of  a  dried  pond. 

Continuing  my  course  along  the  southern  shore  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy  (on  which  route  the  principal  objects  of 
attraction  are  the  muddy  surges  of  the  Bay,  and  the 
broad  belt  of  red  mud  along  its  shore,)  I  at  length  reach- 
ed Cape  Blomidon,  a  point  of  land  extending  far  into 
the  Bay,  and  being  nearly  met  by  a  j.oint  of  land  on 
the  opposite  shore  of  the  Bay,  thereby  nearly  cutting 
it  in  two,  and  forming  the  waters  to  the  eastward  into 
a  kind  of  basin  or  estuary,  known  by  the  name  of  Ba- 
sin of  Mines,  Into  this  famous  basin  or  inner  estuary, 
tl^e  tides  of  tl^^  Pay  of  Fundy  pour  twice  every  day  a 


\: 


fill 


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■'■m 


vast  body  of  water  which  passe.s  through  this  narrow 
strait,  converting  every  small  streamlet  into  the  aj)- 
pearance  of'a  lar^e  tidal  river.  The  tides  here  rise 
70  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  and  are  said  to  be  the 
highest  in  the  world.  They  often  come  up  at  first  with 
a  fofly  wave,  called  the  Bore,  the  waters  seemtocon.e 
rushing  with  as  much  impetuosity  as  the  St.  Lawrence, 
at  the  celebrated  Cascade  Rapids.  The  muddy  billoAr^; 
of  thi'S  Bay  roar  almost  as  loirdly  while  rolling  on  in 
theit  mad  career,  as  the  St.  Lavvrence  does  "while  rol- 
ling its  majestic  waves  over  its  rocky  bed,  whose  tran> 
parent  green  waters  and  white  foam,  far  exceed  in 
beauty,  the  \^aters  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  which  resem- 
ble a  powerful  current  of  red  mud  in  violent  motion. 

The  waters  of  this  famous  Bay  become  charged  with 
this  red  sediment,  by  undermining  cliffs  of  red  sand- 
stone and  soft  red  marl,  while  rolling  and  tumbling  in 
awful  grandeur,  in  performing  the  office  assigned  them 
by  Him  who  holds  the  waters  of  the  Ocean  in  the  hol- 
low of  his  hand  ;  and  has  said  to  the  raging  billows, 
"Hitherto  shalt  thou  come  and  no  farther,  and  here 
shall  thy  proud  wave  be  stayed."  A  large  portion  of 
the  ted  mud  which  is  seen  along  the  shoi*es  of  the  Bay 
is  thrown  on  the  land,  wherever  the  velocity  ol  the  cur- 
rent is  suspended  at  the  turn  of  the  tide.  Many  ex- 
tensive level  flats  have  been  thus  enriched,  and  render- 
ed valuable,  by  afterwards  protecting  them  from  the 
tides  by  strong  and  powerful  embankments,  which  ex- 
clude the  tides  from  their  former  bounds. 

At  Cape  Blomidon,  can  be  seen  the  same  range  of 
cUffs  alluded  to  at  Annapolis:  they  are  a  considerahk 


a  me  range  ot 


l-ARALLKL    rr'HIiOW.-    IN    .-A.NDSTONK. 


•iSS 


\voiul<T,  consisting  chieily  of  clilfs  of" soft  red  s.ind.stonc 
ill  nearly  h-  rizontal  beds,  anc!  capped  by  a  mass  of  ba- 
salt and  greenstone.  Tbis  mass  of  igneous  rock,  after 
presenting  fine  ranges  of  rude  columns  on  the  bold 
precipice,  facing  northwards,  is  continuous  in  a  narrow 
strip  of  high  land  for  miles  in  extent,  till  it  reaches  An- 
napolis. 

As  I  was  strolling  with  my  guide,  through  a  dense 
(o<r  alono;  the  beach,  at  the  base  of  these  basaltic  clifls, 
collecting  pebbles  and  occasionally  recent  shells  at  low 
tide,  I  stopped  short  at  the  sight  of  an  unexpected  phe- 
nomenon, and  remarked  to  my  guide  that  the  solitary 
inhabitant  of  a  desert  island  could  scarcely  have  been 
more  startled  by  the  foot-print  of  a  man  in  the  sand, 
than  I  was  on  beholding  some  recent  furrows  in  a  ledge 
of  sandstone  ynder  my  feet,  almost  in  the  very  bed  of 
the  Bay  of  Fundy.  These  furrows  were  straight,  and 
several  only  about  half  an  inch  broad  and  about  as  deep ; 
and  some  of  them  running  very  nearly  parallel  with 
each  other,  their  direction  being  North  35  degrees 
East,  or  corresponding  to  that  of  the  shore  at  the  place. 
About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  nearer  the  Basin  of  Mines/ 
are  another  set  of  furrows  similar  in  every  respect,  save 
a  variation  of  5  degrtej  in  their  general  direction,  the 
latter  bein^j:  North  30  deo-rees  East.  These  singular 
grooves  excited  some  curiosity  in  my  mind,  owing  to 
the  newness  of  their  appearance.  I  finally  came  to  the 
conclusion,  judging  from  the  softness  of  the  sandsijne, 
that  ice  must  have  been  the  cause  ;.I  therefore  asked 
my  guide  whether  he  had  ever  seen  much  ice  on  the 
.•pjt  where   v;e  wer*:^    standing.     At  thii   question  he 


1   • 


jH 


I: 


i 


:i 


;l! 


I  ; ! 


:» 


n 


28G 


CLIFFS    OF    SOUTH    .lOdClSi, 


it:      ■  I 


.H'?ti 


showed  symptoms  of  surprise  ;  X  having  my  pocket 
map  in  my  hand,  at  a  glance  discovered  that  v^^e  \veie 
in  the  4«;"3th  degree  ol  North  latitude,  or  about  halfway 
between  the  Equator  and  the  North  Pole,  which  at 
once  accounted  for  the  surprise  of  my  guide,  as  he  of 
course  considered  the  question  of  ice  being  put  in  so 
north  a  latitude  a  strange  one.  He  replied,  that  gene- 
rally during  the  winter,  the  ice  in  spite  of  the  tide 
which  runs  at  the  rate  of  10  miles  an  hour  extended  in 
one  uninterrupted  mass  from  the  shore  where  we  stood, 
to  the  opposite  coast,  of  the  Basin  of  Mines,  and  that 
the  ice  blocks  heaped  on  each  other,  and  froze  together 
or  packed  at  the  foot  of  Cape  Blomidon,  were  often  15 
feet  thick  ;  and  were  pushed  along  when  the  tide  rose 
over  fhe  sand  ledges.  He  also  stated  that  fragments  of 
rocks,  a  species  of  black  stone,  which  fell  from  the 
clifF,  a  pile  of  which  lay  at  the  base  near  our  feet,  were 
often  frozen  into  the  ice  and  moved  along  with  it. — 
These  great  massess  of  ice  hurried  alonoj  with  such  im- 
petuosity,  no  doubt  furnish  sufHcient  pressure  and  me- 
chanical power  to  groove  the  ledges  of  soft  sandstone. 
The  next  object  of  attraction  are  the  celebrated  cliffs 
of  South  Joo:<jrins,  near  the  town  of  Minudie  situated  on 

DO  7 

the  southern  shores  of  a  branch  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
called  Chignecto  Channel,  which  divides  part  of  New 
Brunswick  from  Nova  Scotia.  We  now  crossed  the 
Basin  of  Mines,  and  went  to  Minudie,  near  which  com- 
mence the  cliffs  of  South  Joggins.  These  perpendicu- 
lar cliffs  extend  in  a  south-westerly  direction,  along  the 
southern  shore  of  the  Channel.  The  commencement 
of  these  cliffs  consists  of  blue  grit,  which  affords  excel- 


CLIFFS   OF    SOUTH    JOGClNSj 


as7 


lent  griiulstoncs,  out  of  which  vast  numbers  are  taken. 
Tills  ledge  is  forty-five  feet  in  thickness  and  extends 
lor  one  mile  south  of  Minudie. 

It  beinjr  low  tide,  we  had  not  only  the  advantafie  ot 
beholding  a  fine  exposure  of  the  edges  of  these  beds  in 
the  vertical  precipice,  but  also  the  hofi?.oiital  section, 
which  below  the  grindstone  ledges,  consisted  of  red 
Sandstone,  with  some  limestone  and  gypsum.  The  ver- 
tical height  of  the  clifTs  is  from  150  to  200  leet.  Our 
schooner  now  moved  down  the  Chignects  Channel,  and 
for  three  miles  south  of  the  grindstone  ledges,  the  clifTs 
are  not  interesting,  being  somewhat  obscure,  the  rocks 
consisting  chiefly  of  red  sandstone  and  red  marl.  Af- 
ter passing  these  three  miles,  the  precipice  increases  in 
beauty,  for  they  consist  of  freestone,  bituminous  shale, 
micaceous  sandstone,  sandy  clays,  blue  shale,  and  clays, 
with  ironstone,  together  with  no  less  than  nineteen 
seams  of  coal,  from  one  inch  to  four  feet  in  thickness* 

About  6  miles  from  the  town  of  Minudie,  commence 
the  celebratee  fossil  trees  in  the  cli/Ts  of  South  Joorgins, 
all  of  which  stand  as  erect  as  any  trees  in  the  lorest. 
In  the  first  of  these  trees,  seen  in  moving  down  u\3 
Chignecto  Channel,  there  is  no  part  of  the  origin, d 
plant  preserved,  except  the  bark,  which  forms  a  tube 
of  pure  bituminous  coal,  filled  with  sand,  clay  and  oth- 
er deposits,  now  forming  a  solid  internal  cylinder,  with- 
out traces  of  oro-anic  structure.  The  bark  is  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  marked  externally  with  ir- 
regular longitudinal  ridges  and  furrows,  without  leaf- 
scars,  and  therefore  not  resembling  regular  fluting*.-— 
The  diameter  of  this  tree  is  14  inches  at  the  top  ana  16 


.  I 


f' 


p 


(i 


'II 


iri 


I 


At 


4 


M 


ill 


2S8 


rurrs  or  :>;;riii  .)iM.iii.\>. 


■  J.   i 


at  lli(?  Loltom,  \)v\iv^  o  I'vvi  S  iiiclitj  hl^fi.  Thv  jjImiIj 
in  the  inliMlur  ol'tlio  trcf,  is  said  to  cun^ijl  oi'.i  borit\s 
entirely  dillcrcnt  fvmn  those  on  the  oiil.side.  The  low. 
est  of  the  tliree  outer  beds  w  hich  it  traverses,  consisi:; 
of  purplish  und  Mtie  shale,  two  feet  Ihick,  above  which 
is  sandstone  one  foot  thick,  and  above  this  clay  (w  j 
feet  nine  inches  thick. 

The  :J'-T&nd  of  these  fos.sil  trees  is  separali'd  Ironi  tb.> 
first  by  a  considerable  mass  of*  shale  and  sandstoiu', 
which  of  itself  is  calcalated  to  attract  the  attention  oi 
the  stranger,  although  in  the  ininriediute  vicinity  ol" 
more  interesting^  scenery.  This  second  trunk  is  about 
9  feet  in  length,  traversing  various  strata,  and  cut  oil" 
at  the  top  by  a  layer  of  clay,  2  feet  thick,  on  which 
rests  a  seam  of  coal  1  foot  thick.  This  seam  of  coal 
forms  a  foundation  on  uhich  stands  two  lar2:e  trees,  a- 
bout  15  feet  a])art ;  each  one  is  about  two  and  a  half 
feet  in  diameter,  and  fourteen  feet  long,  both  enlargiiitr 
downwards,  and  the  one  situated  the  fartliest  south,  is 
bulging  very  considerably  at  the  base.  The  beds  thro' 
which  these  two  famous  trees  pass,  consist  of  shale  and 
sandstone.  The  cliff  was  here  too  precipitous  to  allow 
a  person  to  discover  any  commencement  of  roots ;  but 
when  viewed  from  the  schooner,  the  bottom  of  the 
trunks  seemed  to  touch  Ihe  subjacent  coal. 

/Vbove  these  trees  are  beds  of  bituminous  fhale  and 
clay,  about  ten  feet  thick,  on  which  rests  another  bed 
of  coal  one  foot  thick  ;  and  this  coal  supports  two  trcej 
each,  about  eleven  feet  high,  and  sixty  yards  apart,  and 
so  far  as  they  can  be  seen,  they  appear  to  have  grown 
OI7  the  coal.     One  ol  these  tr<^es  is  about  two  feet  in 


CLIFFS   OP   SOUTU  JOUiilNS. 


280 


vo  grown 


iViameter,  preserving  nearly  Ihe  same  size  from  top  to 
bottom ;  while  the  other  is  only  about  fourteen  inches 
in  diameter  at  the  top,  enlarged  visibly  at  the  base. — 
The  irregular  Jurrows  of  the  bark  of  these  two  trees  in 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  one  from  the  other.  The  tops 
of  these  trees  are  also  cut  off*  by  a  bed  of  clay ;  on  this 
bed  oi  clay  rests  the  main  seam  of  the  South  Joo^^ins 
coal,  which  is  at  this  place  only  (our  feet  thick. 

Above  this  main  seam  of  coal,  there  is  another  suc- 
cession of  strata,  consisting  of  purplish  and  blue  shale, 
two  feet  thick,  above  which  is  sandstone  one  foot  thick, 
and  above  this  again,  clay  which  is  between  two  and 
three  feet  thick,  with  occasional  thin  seams  of  coal. — 
This  series  of  strata  also  contains  fossil  trees,  standing: 
vertical  to  the  seams  of  coal,  at  five  or  six  different  lev- 
els, which  appear  like  fluted  columns  placed  in  the 
face  of  the  cliff*,  and  thereby  adorns  a  towering  preci- 
pice, whose  beauties  are  perhaps  without  a  parallel  on 
the  face  of  the  globe.  There  were  here  visible  no  less 
than  sixteen  of  these  fossil  trees,  being  situated  at  ten 
or  eleven  distinct  levels,  one  above  the  other  ,  they  ex- 
tend over  a  space  of  two  or  three  miles  from  north  to 
south.  In  the  whole  seventeen  of  these  upright  trunks 
not  one  could  be  seen  intersecting  a  layer  of  coal,  how- 
ever thin,  nor  could  any  be  seen  standing  on  sandstone 
or  their  roots  terminating  on  the  same  ;  but  always  on 
coal  or  shale.  Their  height  is  Irom  five  feet  eight  in- 
ches to  twenty-five  feet.  One  only  could  be  seen  that 
was  twenty-five  feet  high  ;  this  was  more  than  one  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  beach,  which  of  course  could  not 

be  approached  to  measure  :  but  so  far  as  I  could  judge, 
13 


\  ,1 


290 


CLIFFS  OF  bOUin  JoOOlXi' 


I     ■  f'\ 


■:i 


it  was  that  height,  and  about  lour  feet  in  diameter,  with 
a  considerable  bulge  at  the  base. 

All  these  trees  appear  to  be  of  one  species,  the  ru- 
gositese  on  the  surface  producing  the  eft'ect  of  a  rude- 
ly-fluted colunTin,  the  wlK)le  of  which  were  placed  ve- 
ry accurately  at  right  angles  to  the  planes  of  stratifica- 
tion. I  also  learned  that  other  and  different  fossil  trees 
were  exposed  a  few  years  ago,  that  could  not  now  be 
seen,  owing  to  the  action  oi  the  tides  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy,  being  so  destructive  as  continually  to  under- 
mine and  sweep  away,  the  whole  face  of  the  cliff,  so 
that  a  new  crop  of  fossils  is  laid  open  to  view  every 
two  or  three  years. 

At  several  places  in  this  singular  cli/F,  we  observed 
not  far  above  the  uppermost  coal-seams,  containing  ver- 
tical trees,  two  strata,  which  perhaps  is  of  fresh  water 
or  estuary  origin.  This  strata  is  composed  of  black 
bituminous  shale,  chiefly  made  up  of  compressed  shells. 
Above  these  beds  are  innumerable  strata  of  red  sand- 
stone or  shale,  which  are  without  coal-seams,  and  with 
iew  or  no  fossils  that  can  be  seen^  In  various  places 
in  this  clifl'can  be  seen  ledges  of  gypsum,  which  how- 
ever, is  chiefly  at  or  near  the  beach,  in  which  positioii 
it  can  only  be  seen  at  low  tide.  The  clifl^s  of  South 
Joggins  afford  a  rich  theme  for  contemplation  by  a  stu- 
dent of  nature,  and  more  particularly  the  Geologist,  as 
many  curious  conclusions  may  be  deduced  from  an  in- 
spection of  these  celebrated  cliffs.  But  for  the  exis- 
tence of  the  upright  trees,  it  might^have  been  conjec- 
tured that  the  beds  of  sand  and  mud  have  been  thrown 
down  at  first  on  a  sloping  bank,  as  some  times  happenj 


CLirPi  or  ROLTH  JlKJCJlN*. 


291 


in  the  case  of  gravel  and  coarse  saml  ;  but  the  ovidf-ncc 
of  the  growth  often  or  eleven  furrsts  of  fossil  trees,  su- 
perimposed one  upon  the  other,  together  with  the  erect 
position  of  the  trees  and  thfir  perpendicularity  to  the 
planes  of  stratification,  will  at  once  conipcU  every  sane 
mind  to  admit  that  such  a  conjecture  is  not  only  badly 
founded,  but  really  absurd. 

While  viewing  these  fossils,  1  was  for  some  time  at  a 
loss  for  a  conclusion  ;  but  owing  to  the  waters  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy  being  heavily  charged  with  sediment,  I 
came  to  the  following  conclusion  :  The  main  portion  of 
the  peninsula  ol  Nova  Scotia  being  situated  South  and 
East  ot  South  Joggins,  thereby  breaking  the  force  of  the 
waves  of  the  Atlantic,  and  allowing  many  of  the  trees 
near  the  mouth  ol  the  estuary,  formerly  at  a  much  low- 
er level  than  at  present,  to  continue  erect,  by  the  ab- 
sence of  waves  and  currents  of  sufficient  strength  to 
loosen  and  overturn  the  trees,  and  the  waters  being  so 
heavily  charged  with  sediment,  readily  enveloped  the 
trees  belore  they  had  time  to  decay,  and  alter  being 
thus  enveloped  they  were  of  course  preserved.  But 
by  the  time  I  had  noted  the  last  line  of  my  conclusion 
I  saw  that  my  theory  was  subject  to  objection,  owing 
in  part  to  the  successive  submergence  of  so  many  for- 
ests which  grew  one  above  the  other.  I  therefore  no 
longei"  taxed  my  mind  concerning  the  cause  ol  this  ma- 
jestic clifT,  hoping  at  some  future  day  to  learn  from  the 
pen  of  some  Geologist  the  cause  of  this  singular  yet 
beautiful  precipice,  which  has  the  power  of  furnishing 
him  with  a  rich  repast. 


292 


M  1  N  U  D  1  fi  J 


!    J  I 


Hi 


''Sir 


,p^. 


CHAPTER  X  X  V  1 1  . 

Second  Arrival  at  Minudie — Departure — Windsor'— Linnoed 
Burcalis — Potatoes — Culture-'— Harvesting  and  Storing  Pota- 
toes— Hulton  Bluir—- Gypsum — Big  Rock — Rose's  Point — 
Gypsiferous  Sericj^— Blue  Noses — Ardoise  Hills — Foggy  Re- 
gions— Kalmia— Sterility  of  the  Southern  Portion  of  Nova 
Hcotia — 'Progress  of  the  Country — Inhabitants — Highland  Set- 
tlers— Political  Dissatisfaction — Halifax — Surrounding  Scene- 
ry— Museum  — Commerce — Departure  for  Massachusetts — 

-  Dense  Fogs — The  Ocean — The  Tempest — Sublimity  of  tliQ 
Ocean.  , 

After  our  return  to  the  town  of  Minudie,  vve  were 
very  hospitably  received  by  the  chief  proprietor  and 
owner  of  the  land  containing  the  cliffs  of  South  Joggins. 
This  wealthy  land-lord  is  also  the  owner  ot  many  of 
those  fertile  flats  of  red  mud  before  described,  which  he 
has  rt^deemed  from  the  sea.  Minudie  is  a  handsome 
and  flourishing  town.  From  the  town  of  Parrsborough 
we  again  crossed  the  Basin  of  Mines,  by  our  schooner 
penetrating  a  dense  fog,  which  did  not  onl}'  obscure 
the  scenery  of  the  shores  from  the  view  of  the  stranger, 
but  was  otherwise  very  unpleasant. 

Windsor,  is  a  city  situated  on  a  splendid  harbor  on 
the  southern  shore  of  the  Basin  of  Mines,  in  a  fertile 
and  highly  cultivated  region  of  country,  which  pro- 
duces wheat  and  other  grain  in  very  considerable  quan- 
tities. In  the  woods  near  this  place,  I  saw  several 
kinds  of  Pycola  and  other  flowers,  among  them  the 
Linnoed  Borealis  appeared  here  and  there,  matting  the 
ground  with  its  green  leaves  under  the  shade  of  the 
fir-trees,  and  still  displaying  some  of  its  delicate  pink 
flowers. 


^innoed 
g  Pota- 
Point — 
gity  Re- 
of  Nova 
land  Set- 
ig  Scenc- 
luselts — 
ity  of  the 

IV e  were 
etor  and 

Jooro;ins. 


ruLTrrji  op  roTATors. 


<w  ty  •> 


Potatoes  are  here  raised  in  vnst  qManlltioFi,  as  the 
rich,  moist,  cool  and  admirable  soil  of  the  northern 
section  of  Nova  Scotia  is  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
the  potatoe.  It  is  contended  a  calcareous  soil  yields  a 
fljood  potatoe  and  genernll}''  a  siire  crop,  and  when  the 
land  contains  but  little  lime  it  is  added  with  salt,  ashes 
and  o;ypsum.  The  land  when  not  already  sn{fici^ntly 
rich,  manure  is  spread  on  the  surface  before  plowing, 
and  if  the  soil  requires  the  above  manures  are  also  ad- 
ded, or  such  of  them  as  the  soil  may  require.  If  a 
touo;h  sod,  it  is  plowed  the  preceeding  fall,  but  if  it  is 
friable  it  is  plowed  just  before  planting  ;  but  in  all  cases 
the  land  is  put  in  such  a  condition  lis  to  be  perfectly 
loose  and  mellow.  Hills  are  chiefly  chosen,  as  they 
are  most  convenient  for  tillage,  as  they  admit  of  a  more 
thorouq;h  stirrin"*  of  the  scround  with  the  cultivator  or 
plow. 

The  medium  sized  potatoe  is  chiefly  selected  for  seed, 
as  it  is  contended  to  be  vastly  the  best  for  planting. — 
Two  potatoes  are  placed  in  each  hill,  or  if  the}'  are 
drilled,  they  are  planted  singl}*,  nine  or  ten  inches  a- 
part.  The  distance  both  in  hills  and  drills  generally 
depends  on  the  strength  of  the  soil  and  size  of  tho  tops, 
as  some  varieties  grow  much  larger  than  others.  The 
potatoe  is  covered  to  the  d(^pth  offivo  or  six  inches, 
and  if  the  soil  is  light  the  ground  is  left  perfectly  level, 
if  cold,  heavy,  or  wet,  the  hill  is  raised  when  finished. 

In  some  cases  they  receive  a  top  dressing  with  com- 
post earth  well  rotted,  chip  manure,  &c. ;  soon  af^er 
the  plants  make  their  appearance,  this  is  carried  to  the 
field  and  spread  from  a  light  cart,  the  wheels   passing 


It'  ^'^i 

iH'r   I: 


^  f 


V\ 


il 


294 


CULTURE    OF    POTATOES, 


/f;:.: 


....  t^ 


I  I 


between  the  rows,  after  which  the  plow  is  run  through 
them,  which  throws  the  earth  over  them  two  or  three 
inches  and  no  injury  results,  if  the  tops  are  partially 
or  even  entirely  covered.  The  hoe  is  seldom  required, 
except  to  destroy  such  weeds  as  may  have  escaped  the 
plow.  The  ground  is  thus  several  times  stirred  before 
the  tops  interfere  with  the  operation,  but  never  <l^ter 
they  come  into  blossom. 

The  harvesting  is  never  commenced  until  the  tops 
are  mostly  dead.  They  are  then  thrown  out  of  the 
hills  by  a  plow  made  fof  the  purpose,  called  the  har- 
row plow,  and  after  they  are  raiseci  they  are  never  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  for  any  lengih  of  time,  but  are  gather- 
ed into  small  heaps  and  some  of  the  tops  spread  over 
them  until  they  are  Ireed  from  the  surface  moisture. — 
Those  for  seed  are  then  selected  and  placed  in  smalj 
piles  in  the  field,  till  they  are  placed  in  thin  layers  in 
a  cool,  dry  place  in  the  cellar,  where  the  air  is  exclu- 
ded and  no  heating  or  injury  can  occur.  Such  as  are 
intended  for  consumption  are  stored  in  an  excavation 
made  in  the  side  of  a  hill,  and  sometimes  on  level 
ground,  where  they  are  protected  from  rain  and  frost 
until  the  partial  sv/eating  or  heating,  which  soon  takea 
place,  is  over^  when  they  are  covered  with  earth  to  a 
sufficient  depth  to  protect  them  from  being  injured-  by 
freezing.  A  ditch  lower  than  the  base,  is  made  encir- 
cling the  heap,  from  which  an  outlet  conducts  away 
all  the  water,  as  any  left  upon  them  will  inevitably 
produce  decay.  In  a  majority  of  cases,  however,  hous- 
es are  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  storing-  away  po- 
tatoes, which  heve  appear  to  be  a  vast  product, 


'  im 


HOIlTdN    BLUFF. 


295 


Potatoes  are  here  used  in  large  quantities  by  the 
manufacturers  of  starch.  The  refuse  of  the  pulp,  after 
extracting  the  starch  as  well  as  the  liquor  drained  from 
it,  is  used  in  clensing  woollens  and  silks,  which  it  ef- 
fects without  injury  to  the  color.  They  are  also  used 
to  some  extent  for  distilling,  and  in  a  less  degree  for 
making  sugar.  But  by  far  the  greatest  use  of  potatoes 
in  this  region  of  country  is  for  stock  feeding.  They 
are  eaten  with  avidity  by  all  the  brute  creation,  either 
cooked  or  raw.  They  are  here  fed  to  horses,  cattle, 
sheep,  hogs  and  even  poultry- 

Horton  Bluff,  near  Windsor,  is  celebrated  for  its 
gypsum.  The  highly  inclined  and  curved  strata  of 
this  cliff  affords  a  fine  section  containing  coal  plants  and 
scales  of  fish.  This  is  a  scene  truly  interesting,  as  they 
contain  marine  fossils  identical  with  many  of  those 
which  can  be  found  at  Windsor,  ana  at  other  places  on 
the  shore  of  the  Basin  of  Mines.  There  is  also  seen  in 
one  of  the  ripple  marked  slabs,  a  something  which  ap- 
pears to  be  the  impression  of  the  footsteps  of  an  animal, 
perhaps  a  Reptilian,  having  five  claws.  There  are  two 
of  these  tracks,  neither  of  which  is  very  plain. 

The  gypsum  taken  out  of  this  cliff  is  immense,  and 
such  as  is  used  in  Nova  Scotia  is  burnt  before  using  it 
as  a  manure.  '  Great  quantities  of  the  gypsum  of  Nova 
Scotia  is  shipped  for  the  United  States.  These  vast 
beds  of  gypsum  are  most  always  found  to  be  intimately 
associated  with  limestone,  which  have  no  appearance 
of  their  having  undergone  alteration,  but  appear  as  na- 
tural as  when  found  by  themselves. 

The  gypsiferous  strata  are  best  disclosed  in  the  cliffs, 


h\i  i 


•  \  1 


;.  I 


it'\ 


^:-Af ., 


29G 


MAfcS   or    GYI*5UM    OR    ALABAStElt/ 


which  are  washed  by  Ihe  estuary,  which  penetrates  far 
into  the  peninsula.     The  rapid  tides  of  the  Bay  of  Fun- 
cly  continually  undermine  and  sweep  away  the  fallen 
debutus  at  the  base  of  the  cliffs,  otherwise  the  section 
would  soon  be  obscured,  owing  to  the  muddy  waters  of 
the  Bay  }  but  so   rapid  is  the  disintegration  of  the  soft 
red  marls  with  which  the  gypsum  and  limestone  are 
int  erst  ratified,  as  to  keep  it  in  a  manner  fresh.     The 
general  strike  of  the  beds  are  nearly  east  and  west,  the 
strata  appearing  to  have  been  first  folded  into  numerous 
parallel  wrinkles,  running  east  and  west,  and  part  of 
these  iolds  tilted  at  considerable  angles,  sometimes  to- 
wards the  east  and  sometimes  to  the  west,  while  the 
rocks  are    fissured  in  the  direction  of  their  strike  and 
shifted  vertically.     By  such  complicated  movements 
the  strata  have  been  thrown  into  the  greatest  confusion. 

In  the  same  range  of  cliffy,  at  a  place  called  Big 
Rock,  is  seen  a  great  mass  of  gypsum  or  alabaster,  of  a 
pure  white  color,  which  is  no  less  than  300  yards  thick 
and  forms  a  conspicuous  object  in  the  vertical  cliff,  and 
is  said  to  extend  continuously  east  and  west  for  12 
miles  through  the  country,  and  is  perhaps  one  of  the 
most  magnificent  scenes  that  Nova  Scotia  can  produce. 
Below  it  are  alternations  of  gypsum  with  yellow  shale 
and  bituminous  limestone.  Among  the  dislocated 
strata  which  alternate  with  gypsiferous  series,  are  three 
masses  consisting  of  coal-grit,  shale  and  sandstone. — 
These  are  visible  only  at  low  tide. 

A  few  miles  up  the  Shubenacadie  river,  at  a  place 
called  Rose's  Point,  are  seen  limestones  containing  ma- 
Tien  shells,  and  at  a  point  called  Anthony's  Noae,  the 


tj  L  L  fe      NOSE  s'. 


297 


same  curiosities  may  be  seen.  Near  both  ofthcse  places 
are  vast  beds  of  gypsum.  I  learned  that  4  miles  higher 
up  the  river  at  Admiral's  Rock,  there  was  anothefvast 
quarry* 

In  going  southwards  from  Windsor,  there  may  also 
be  seen  on  a  tributary  of  the  River  Avon,  a  fry])sifef- 
ous  series  situated  near  a  Mr.  Snide's  Mill.  This  gyp- 
sum was  inclosed  in  coarse  sandstone,  with  a  seam  of 
impure  coal,  about  two  inches  thick,  near  which  could 
be  seen  clay,  iron,  stone  and  shale.  Great  beds  of 
gypsum  could  also  be  seen  on  the  Halifax  road. 

We  now  prepared  to  travel  south  for  the  city  of 
Halifax,  which  we  done  by  crossing  the  Ardoise  hills 
in  a  stage  coach.  I  learned  while  in  the  great  plaster 
region,  that  there  was  a  class  of  persons  in  Nova  Sco- 
tia, called  the  Blue  Noses,  (so  called  from  a  kind  of  po- 
tato which  thrives  well  here.)  Whether  this  nick-name 
is  an  appropriate  one  or  not,  I  did  not  oecome  suffici- 
ently acquainted  with  their  habits  to  determine.  This 
much  however  is  true,  that  they  are  not  in  the  habit  of 
setting  a  very  high  value  either  on  their  own  time  or 
that  of  others.  To  this  class  I  presume  belonged  the 
driver  of  our  stage  coach,  for  on  arriving  in  the  famous 
Ardoise  Hills,  which  range  divides  the  sloping  and  fer- 
tile northern  regions  of  the  peninsula,  from  the  rocky 
and  baren  regions  of  the  south,  drawing  the  reins  of 
his  horses,  he  informed  us  that  there  were  a  great  ma- 
ny wild  straw  berries  by  the  road  side,  and  that  he  in- 
tended to  get  off  and  eat  some  of  them,  as  there  was 
time  to  spare,  for  he  should  still  arrive  in  Halifax  by 
the  appointed  hour.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  all  turn- 
13* 


II 


r-lf\ 


m  ^ 


;•!' 


29S 


SO'JTIllillN    POIITION    01'    NOVA    SCOTl.U 


ed  out,  as  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  wait  in  tlip 
inside  of  the  coach  or  to  pick  iruit  by  the  road  side. — 
Alter  our  driver  had  made  a  desperate  inroad  upon  the 
wild  straw  berries  by  the  road  side,  we  travelled  on  for 
some  distance  among  the  hills,  when  to  my  great  de- 
light I  caught  a  glimps  of  the  sun,  for  the  first  time 
for  some  days,  on  which  I  raised  the  question  of  fog, 
by  asking  the  driver  if  we  would  not  soon  get  out  of 
the  foggy  regions;  when  to  my  surprise  I  was  told  that 
we  were  just  going  into  the  very  regions  of  fog.  Ac- 
cordingly, when  we  crossed  the  lower  chain  of  the 
Ardoise  Hills,  I  lound  that  the  driver's  answer  was 
very  true.  Great  indeed  was  the  contrast  between  the 
climate  and  the  aspect  of  the  fertile  country  which  we 
had  just  left,  and  the  cold  barren  tracts  of  granite, 
quartzite,  and  clay  iic,  which  we  were  about  to  en- 
ter on  our  way  to  Halifax.  The  sterility  of  this  quart- 
zilerous  district  is  not  in  the  least  relieved  by  any  beau, 
tiful  features  of  the  scenery  ;  the  plants  alone  afforded 
us  some  points  of  interest  and  novelty,  especially  the 
Kalmia,  now  in  full  flower,  which  monopolised  the 
ground  in  some  wide  open  spaces  where  there  was 
earth  enough  to  support  vegetation. 

More  than  half  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  penin- 
sula of  Nova  Scotia  consists  of  granite  rocks,  clay-slate, 
quartzite  and  other  crystalline  formations,  without  fos- 
sils that  are  visible,  the  strata  having  an  east  and  west 
strike.  Granite  also  intrudes  itself  in  veins  into  every 
part  ol  this  series  and  was  it  not  for  the  merit  the  south- 
ern half  of  Nova  Scotia,  of  affording  some  of  the  best 
harbors  in  the  world,  it  would  certainly  be  one  of  the 


SOUTHERN    rORTlON    OF  NOVA  SCOTIA. 


'iya 


most  miserable,  poor,  rocky  and  foggy  regions  in  the 
Vvorld.  And  I  do  not  think  it  would  be  slanderino^  the 
southern  portion  of  the  peninsula  much,  to  term  it  the 
great  theatre  of  thickets,  granite  rocks  and  fogs. 

But  in  spite  of  the  large  extent  of  barren  and  rocky 
land  in  the  south,  and  what  is  a  more  serious  evil,  those 
seven  or  eight  months  of  frost  and  snow,  which  crowd 
the  labours  of  the  agriculturalist  into  so  brief  a  season, 
the  resources  ot  the  province  are  very  great.  They 
have  the  most  magnificent  harbours  in  the  world,  and 
fine  navigable  estuaries,  large  areas  of  the  richest  soil 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  province,  which  have  been 
gained  irom  the  sea  by  embankments,  together  with  a 
vast  supply  of  coal  and  gypsum,  with  large  and  dense 
forests  of  timber,  all  of  which  are  great  resources  of 
the  province,  rendering  it  great  aid  in  overcoming  all 
other  obstacles',  and  it  can  be  seen  that  the  progress  of 
the  colony  is  onward. 

A  fellow-passenger  in  the  coach  from  IVindsor  to 
Halifax,  a  native  of  the  country,  and  who  from  small 
beginnings  had  acquired  a  large  fortune,  bore  testimo- 
ny to  the  rapid  strides  which  the  province  had  made 
within  his  recollection,  by  deploring  the  universal  in- 
crease of  luxury.  He  spoke  of  the  superior  simplicity 
of  manners  in  his  young  days,  when  the  wives  and 
daughters  of  farmers  were  accustomed  to  ride  to  church, 
each  on  horseback,  behind  their  husbands  or  fathers ; 
whereas  now  they  were  not  content  unless  they  could 
ride  there  in  their  own  carriage. 

In  Nova  Scotia,  not  a  few  of  the  most  intelligent  and 
thriving  inhabitants  are  descended  from  loyalists,  who 


Sou 


POLITICAL  DISSATISrACTION. 


if  ■" 


fled  from  the  United  States  at  the  time  of  the  declara- 
tion of  Independence.  The  picture  they  drew  of  l!»e 
stationary  condition,  want  of  cleanly  habits  and  igno- 
rance of  some  of  the  Highland  settlers  in  parts  of  Nova 
Scotia,  was  discouraging,  and  olten  so  highly  coloured 
as  to  be  very  amusing.  They  were  described  to  me  as 
cropping  the  newly  cleared  ground  year  after  year 
without  manuring  it,  till  the  dung  of  their  horses  and 
cattle  accumulated  round  their  doors,  and  became  even 
to  them  an  intolerable  nuisance.  In  this  predicament 
they  accordingly  pulled  down  their  log  cabins  and  re- 
moved them  to  a  distance,  till  at  length  several  of  their 
more  knowing  neighbors  offered  to  cart  away  the  ma- 
nure  for  a  small  remuneration.  After  a  time  the  High- 
landers perceived  the  use  to  which  the  manure  was 
put,  and  required  those  who  removed  it  to  execute  the 
task  gratuitously,  which  request  of  course  was  perform- 
ed without  a  murmur. 

In  this  province  the  stranger  may  see  that  there  Is 
a  political  dissatisfaction  among  the  inhabitants ;  how- 
ever not  to  so  great  an  extent  as  in  the  Canadas.  In 
this  province  may  be  heard  complaints  against  the  Brit- 
ish government,  for  their  habitual  disregard  of  the 
claims  of  native  merit,  as  citizens  native  born,  men  too 
of  the  greatest  talent  and  moral  worth  are  excluded 
from  the  most  important  places  of  trust  and  honor;  all 
posts  of  rank  and  profit  being  awarded  to  foreigners,  or 
which  is  the  same  thing,  to  natives  of  the  mother  coun- 
try, who  they  contend,  have  not  their  hearts  in  the 
country  where  they'  are  but  temporary  sojourners, 
which  b}^  the  by,  is  "not  so  absurd   an    argument    as  u 


Halifax. 


301 


Bomelimes  held  forth  in  matters  of  less  importance.  A 
second  complaint  is  against  the  lumber  traffic  and  tim- 
ber duties,  as  the  laborers  engaged  during  the  severe 
winters  at  high  pay,  to  fell  and  transport  the  timber  to 
the  coast,  become  invariably  a  drunken  and  improvi- 
dent set.  Another  serious  mischief  is  contended  as 
accruing  from  this  traffic,  as  often  as  the  new  settlers 
reach  the  tracts  from  which  the  wood  has  been  remo- 
ved, instead  of  a  cleared  region,  ready  for  cultivation, 
they  find  a  dense  and  vigorous  undergrowth  of  young 
trees,  far  more  expensive  to  deal  with  than  the  origi- 
nal forest ;  and  what  is  worse,  all  the  best  kinds  of  tim- 
ber fit  for  farm  buildinors  and  other  uses  have  been  ta- 
ken  away,  having  been  carefully  selected  for  exporta- 
tion to  Great  Britain. 

The  city  of  Halifax,  with  a  population  o(  18,000,  is 
beautifully  situated  on  a  harbour,  said  to  be  the  most 
magnificent  in  the  world,  surrounded  by  low  hills  of 
granite  and  slate,  covered  with  birch  and  spruce  fir. 
The  city  contains  many  fine  buildings,  among  which  is 
a  very  large  museum  containing  a  vast  number  of  fos- 
sil shells  and  a  large  fossil  tree  filled  with  sand.  The 
city  has  a  vast  commerce,  and  is  the  point  where  Brit- 
ish steamers  always  land  from  Europe. 

On  leaving  Halifax,  on  board  a  steamship,  for  the 
city  of  Boston,  in  the  State  of  Massachusetts,  the  splen- 
did harbour  and  the  Atlantic  were  enveloped  in  a  dense 
fog,  which  is  said  to  be  caused  by  the  meeting  over  the 
great  banks  of  the  warm  waters  of  the  gulf  stream  flow- 
ing from  the  south,  and  the  cold  currents  often  charg- 
ed with  floating  ice  from  the  north,  by  which  very  op- 


fivt, 


lit 


302 


TIIK     OCEAN. 


posite  states  in  the  relative  temperature  of  the  sea  and 
atmosphere  are  produced,  in  spaces  closely  contiguous. 
In  places  where  the  sea  is  warmer  than  the  air,  fogs  gen- 
erate. The  ocean  was  found  to  assume  different  col- 
ors. The  materials  which  compose  its  bottom  cause  it 
to  reflect  different  hues  in  difi'erent  places,  and  its  ap- 
pearance is  also  affected  by  the  winds  and  by  the  sun, 
while  the  clouds  that  pass  over  it  communicate  all  their 
varied  and  fleeting  colors.  When  the  sun  shone  it  was 
green ;  when  he  gleamed  through  a  fog  it  was  yellow. 
After  sailing  about  20  hours,  there  came  up  a  very 
heavy  rain,  attended  by  a  considerable  tempest ;  and 
while  the  rain  was  fallins;  in  torrents,  the  storm  brino;- 
ing  up  wave  after  wave,  and  loud  peals  of  thunder  fol- 
lowing in  quick  succession,  added  sublimity  to  the  scene. 
Afler  it  ceased  raining,  the  tempest  increased  with  such 
fury  as  to  compel  the  steamer  to  sail  into  the  Bay  of 
Casco  for  safety,  where  we  remained  nearly  all  night. 
Such  is  the  Ocean — a  most  stupendous  scene  of  Om- 
nipotence, which  forms  the  most  magnificent  feature 
of  the  globe  we  inhabit.  When  we  are  sailing:  over  its 
bosom  and  cast  our  eyes  over  the  expanse  of  its  waters, 
till  the  sky  and  waves  seem  to  mingle,  all  that  the  eye 
can  take  in  at  one  survey  is  but  an  inconsiderable  speck. 

In  fine,  whether  we  consider  it  as  rearing  its  tremen- 
dous billows  in  the  midst  of  the  tempest,  or  stretched 
out  into  a  smooth  expanse,  we  cannot  but  be  struck 
with  astonishment  at  the  grandeur  of  that  omnipotent  be- 
ing who  holds  its  waters  in  the  hollow  of  his  hand,  and 
who  has  said  to  its  foaming  surges,  "Hitherto  shalt  thou 
come  and  no  farther,  and  here  shall  thy  proud  waves 
be  staved." 


5TATK  OF  MASSACmrSLTTS.  303 

CHAPTER    XXVIII. 
STATE  OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 

Green  Mountain  range — Agriculture — Shipping — Aspect  of  the 
State — Railroads — Remarks  on  the  past  history  of  the  State — 
Gloucester — Capo  Anne — Salem — Trade — East  India  Marino 
Society — Witchcraft — Historical  sketch — Remark  on  the  De- 
lusion of  the  Colony — Linn. 

In  travelling  from  the  city  of  Boston,  through  vari- 
ous sections  of  this  State,  I  iound  the  Green  Mountain 
range  to  traverse  the  central  parts  of  the  State  from 
north  to  south.  These  mountains  in  their  whole  ex- 
tent abound  in  noble  elevations,  dark  green  forests, 
pleasant  and  vi'ell  sheltered  valleys,  all  presenting  an 
infinite  variety  of  very  impressive  scenery.  The  State, 
west  of  the  Connecticut  river  is  mountainous,  and  east 
of  that  river  it  is  undulating  or  hilly,  except  the  south- 
eastern portion  of  the  State,  or  the  counties  south-east 
of  Charles  river,  which  are  level  and  sandv.  The  soil 
of  a  large  portion  of  the  State  is  of  an  inferior  quality, 
but  cultivated  with  such  a  degree  of  skill  and  intelli- 
gence that  it  is  rendered  delightful  to  behold,  and  re- 
munerates the  owners  with  a  handsome  reward. 

This  great  State  is  usually  known  by  the  name  of 
the  Old  Bay  State,  so  called  from  the  celebrated  Mas- 
sachusetts Bay,  on  which  it'  is  situated,  which  great 
bay  extends  from  the  city  of  Boston  north  to  Cape 
Anne,  and  south  to  Cape  Cod,  which  two  Capes  ex- 
tend far  into  the  Atlantic,  in  the  form  of  a  crescent  or 
half-moon ;  the  bay  is  therefore  so   completely   land- 


>>H'* 


i. 


H 


'      '      f 


;      |.         1 

Ht  1 1 

ill 

Si           ■■;'-■         1 

1 .  ii  ■! 

304. 


MASSACHlSKtTi. 


s4 


locked  as  to  render  it  one  of  the  most  secure  and  nia*/- 

o 

nificent  bays  in  North  America.  The  coast  of  tho 
State  is  long  and  very  irregular,  and  has  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  State  of  Maine,  inore  good  harbors  than 
any  other  State  in  the  Union. 

Agriculture  receives  in  this  State  great  attention, 
and  is  conducted  with  a  superior  degree  of  skill  and  in- 
telligence. It  is  no  doubt  one  ol  the  most  highly  cul- 
tivated States  in  the  Union.  In  this  State  the  Legisla- 
ture as  well  as  Agricultural  Societies  have  made  great 
efforts  to  encourage  a  skilful  and  thrifty  husbandry,  and 
to  introduce  the  best  foreign  breeds  of  sheep  and  cat- 
tle. The  great  object,  however,  of  the  people  of  Mas- 
sachusetts is  commerce,  manufactures  and  the  fisheries, 
which  three  chief  pursuits  are  carried  on  to  a  very  ex- 
tensive scale.  The  State  employs  in  her  commerce  and 
fisheries,  nearly  one  third  of  the  whole  shipping  own- 
ed in  the  United  States.  It  is  the  most  thickly  settled 
section  of  the  Union,  and  is  distinguished  for  the  en- 
terprise and  public  spirit  of  its  citizens.  The  people 
are  famous  for  the  liberality  with  which  they  support 
literary  and  humane,  as  well  as  religious  institutions, 
which  are  all  in  the  most  flourishing  condition.  The 
State  is  also  noted  for  its  magnificent  public  works.- 
Notwithstanding  the  State  is  mountainous  and  hilly,  it 
has  some  very  important  canals  and  no  less  than  seven- 
teen or  eighteen  rail-roads,  wholly  within  the  State, 
five  of  which  centre  in  the  city  of  Boston.  The  larger 
portion  oi'ihe  rail-roads  of  the  State  are  constructed 
with  two  tracks  the  entire  length ;  and  cars  may  be 
seen  passing  each  other  every  few  minutes. 


MA*?A(;fn;si:TT*. 


ti)b 


Massac Imsetts  is  famous  lor  the  paliencc  and  forbear- 
ance whicli  she  practiceil  amidst  the  oppi:cs8ions  heap- 
»'(l  upon  her  by  old  Kno;laiul  an  oppression  experien- 
ced throuf^h  exaction  and  cahmmies,  loss  of  charter, 
and  one  abridtj;ement  of  liberty  uftor  aiK^thor  ;  still  she 
inaintainod  hrr  loyalty,  stul  indulging  the  feelings  and 
adopt in<^  the  language  of  affection,  until  justice,  patri- 
otism, religion  and  the  cry  of  liberty,  raised  by  the  re- 
nowned old  Dominion,  by  the  voice  of  her  immortal 
Henry,  bid  them  rise  and  assert  those  rights,  which  the 
()o(l  of  nature  designed  for  all  h's  rational  offspring,  at 
which  she  took  animation,  hurled  the  Tea  of  Great 
Britain  into  Massachusetts  bay,  and  boldly  resisted  by 
force  of  arms  the  oppressions  of  I^ngland,  and  furnish- 
ed more  men  and  money  than  any  other  colony,  for  the 
purpose  of  bringing  to  a  prosperous  conclusion,  a  rev- 
olution which  a  selfish  and  jealous  mother  country,  by 
her  pride  and  imprudence,  had  occasioned. 

Through  this  long  and  trying  war,  in  which  inex- 
porience  had  to  contend  with  the  best  discipline  of  Eu- 
rope, and  poverty  with  great  wealth,  we  see  the  in- 
habitants of  Massachusetts  the  first  to  pledge  their  for- 
tunes, liberties  and  lives,  to  one  another,  which  being 
followed  by  twelve  of  her  sister  colonies,  they  togeth- 
er accomplished  their  emancipation,  to  the  great  aston- 
ishment of  the  world.  And  it  no  less  astonished  the 
world  to  learn,  that  no  sooner  were  these  confederated 
colonies  emancipated  and  transformed  into  an  indepen- 
dent nation,  than  they  were  found  calmly  betaking 
themselves  to  the  organization  of  a  government,  under 
a  Constitution  as  wise  as  it  was  singular,  and  whose  ex- 


rH'"^  i 


t  f 


306 


GLOUCESTER. 


cellency  and  competency,  the  experience  of  more  than 
half  a  century  has  confirmed  5  a  government  which  has 
since  become  the  joy  and  admiration  of  the  world  ;  a 
government  which  has  divested  the  wilderness  of  all 
its  savage  wildness  and  caused  it  to  put  on  beauty  and 
fruitfulness  ;  a  government  whose  jurisdiction  and  pro- 
gress has  been  onward  and  onward,  till  it  has  become 
arrested  in  its  progress  by  the  mighty  billows  of  the 
Pacific  ocean. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  in  Massachusetts,  I  made  an 
excursion  to  Gloucester,  a  great  fishing  town,  with  G,- 
350  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  southern  bank  of  Cape 
Anne,  which  has  an  excellent  harbour.  The  town  is 
connected  with  Boston  by  railroad,  and  is  famous  for 
its  fisheries,  particularly  for  its  mackerel  and  cod.  At 
this  town  may  be  seen  vast  numbers  of  the  finest  mack^r 
erel  and  cod,  together  with  immense  quantities  of  oth- 
er fish,  as  fishing  is  the  only  employment  of  the  inhab- 
itant* Gloucester  is  a  place  admirably  situated  for 
carrying  on  the  fishing  business.  The  town  however 
has  few  attractions,  being  rendered  filthy  and  disgust 
ing  by  the  immense  numbers  of  its  fish.  The  stranger 
after  viewing  the  great  -number  of  fishing  boats,  and 
some  very  large  whale  ships,  has  few  other  objects  of 
interest  to  detain  him,  as  an  hour  or  two  will  general- 
ly incline  him  to  leave  this  great  theatre  offish. 

Salem,  with  a  population  of  16,762,  is  situated  on  a 
fine  harbor,  which  is  to  the  north  of  the  city.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  harbor  is  the  town  of  Beverly,  con- 
taining 4,684  inhabitants,  connected  with  Salem  by  a 
very  beautiful  bric]ge,  1 5QQ  feet  in  length,     The  inhab- 


S  A  L  Q  M  . 


807 


MMi 


more  than 
which  has 
world ;  a 
less  of  all 
)eauty  and 
n  and  pro- 
las  become 
ows  of  the 

I  made  an 
n,  with  6,- 
mk  of  Capo 
he  town  is 
famous  for 
id  cod.    At 
finest  mackr 
ities  of  oth- 
(f  the  inhab- 
situated  for 
n  however 
,nd  disgust- 
'he  stranger 
boats,  and 
r  objects  of 
ill  general- 
if  fish, 
tuated  on  a 
|ty.     On  the 
verly,  con- 
Salem  by  a 
The  inhab- 


itants of  the  place  are  chiefly  employed  in  commerce 
and  the  fisheries.     Salem  is  noted  for  the  ':oTimercial 
enterprise  and  industrious  spiiit  ol  iis  inhabitants.     It 
has  lon^i"  been  largely  engaged  in  the  East  India  and 
China  trade,  and  its  coasting  and  foreign  trade  is  very 
considerable.     The  inhabitants  are  also  engaged  in  the 
whale  fishery,  in  which  they  employ  thirteen  ships. 
They  also  carry  on  the  common  fisheries  to  a  great  ex^- 
tent.     The  city  was  incorporated  in  162^,  and  receiv- 
ed a  charter  in  1836.     Salem  is  neatly  built  and  con- 
tains the  East  India  Marine  Society,  which  is  compo^ 
sed  wholly  of  nautical  men.     It  was  founded  in  the 
year  1799,  incorporated  in  1801,  and  is  said  to  contain 
the  finest  collection  of  East  India  curiosities  in  the  Ur- 
nited  States,     The  introduction  of  a  member  is  requi^ 
red  to  procure  admittance.     The  collections  consist  of 
very  valuable  natural  and  artificial  curiosities.     There 
is  here  a  Lyceum,  a  very  flourishing  institution,  which 
was  incorporated  in  1830,     Eighteen  large  and  ele-r 
gant  churches  also  adorn  the  city, 

Salem  is  noted  for  the  great  delusion  of  1692,  when 
nineteen  persons  were  hanged  on  the  charge  of  witchr 
craft,  among  which  was  Mr.  George  Burroughs,  a  very 
respectable  minister  of  the  gospel,  This  singular  in- 
fatuation of  the  people,  on  the  supposed  prevalence  of 
witchcraft,  caused  Salem  to  become  a  place  of  revoltr 
ing  and  distressing  scenes.  From  this  tovvn  the  awful 
mania  rapidly  spread  into  the  neighboring  (;ounties, 
and  caused  terror,  disorder  and  tumult  throughout  the 
colony;  and  for  a  time  the  counsels  of  age  were  un- 
heard, wisdom  was  counfounded  and  religion  silenced, 


308 


WITCHCRAFT. 


all  giving  ear  to  the  savages,  who  with  their  long  sto- 
ry of  Hobbamocko,  heightened  their  imagination,  con- 
firnned  their  delusive  opinions,  and  furnished  materials 
for  approaching  terrors.  While  under  the  influence  of 
this  awful  delusion,  at  length  the  enquiry  was  anxious- 
ly suggested,  where  will  this  accumulating  evil  and 
misery  end.  This  singular  infatuation  began  now  to 
give  way,  and  a  conviction  began  to  spread  that  tho 
proceedings  had  been  rash  and  indefensible ;  and  hap- 
pily for  the  colony,  the  cloud  which  had  so  long  hung 
over  it  slowly  and  sullenly  retired,  and  like  the  dark- 
ness of  Egypt,  was  to  the  great  joy  of  the  distressed  in- 
habitants, succeeded  by  serenity  and  sunshine.  It 
would  perhaps  be  unjust  for  us  rashly  to  condemn  our 
ancestors,  as  the  human  mind  is  prone  to  superstition, 
and  more  or  less  it  prevails  in  every  country,  even  in 
those  which  are  civilized  and  refined  and  upon  which 
divine  revelation  sheds  its  light.  Even  in  this  case, 
we  are  compelled  to  contemplate  with  wonder,  the 
seeming  madness  and  infatuation,  not  of  the  weak,  il- 
literate and  unprincipled  ;  but  of  men  of  sense,  educa- 
tion and  fervent  piety.  We  are  also  bound  to  consid- 
er, that  though  groundless,  as  is  the  existence  of  witch- 
craft at  the  present  day,  at  that  period  its  actual  exis- 
tence was  taken  for  granted,  and  that  doubts  respect- 
ing it  were  deemed  little  less  than  heresy,  because  tho 
delusion  or  humbug  had  seized  upon  all,  not  even  es- 
caping the  most  learned  and  accomplished  of  England. 
Even  the  celebrated  Dr.  Baxter  pronounced  the  disbe- 
liever in  witchcraft  an  obdurate  Sadducee  ;  and  Sir 
]^|athe^y  Hale,  one  of  the  brightest    ornaments   of  th? 


LYNN. 


309 


English  Bench,  repeatedly  tried  and  condemned  those 
as  criminals  who  were  accused  of  witchcraft.  It  is 
however  cheering  to  know,  that  no  people  on  earth 
are  now  more  enlighted  on  this  subject  than  are  the 
people  of  United  States.  Nothing  of  a  similar  kind  has 
since  existed,  and  probably  never  will  exist.  It  is  true 
stories  of  wonder,  foundeed  on  ancient  tradition  or  up- 
on a  midnight  adventure,  sometimes  awe  the  village 
circle  on  a  winter's  night,  but  the  succeeding  day  cha- 
ses away  every  ghost  and  lulls  every  fear.  There  is 
perhaps  no  nation  on  earth  who  are  novr  more  free  from 
those  delusions,  than  are  the  people  of  the  U.  States. 

The  town  oi  Lynn,  with  a  population  of  9,369,  is 
beautifully  situated  as  a  seaport  town,  on  a  fine  harbor. 
The  place  contains  many  large  and  handsome  buildings 
ana  is  celebrated  for  the  great  amount  of  shoes,  (over 
2,590,000  pair  annually,)  manufactured  here.  The  in- 
habitants also  carry  on  the  cod  and  whale  fisheries. — : 
Nahant,  a  part  of  this  town,  is  situated  on  a  rocky  pe- 
ninsula, and  is  a  very  celebrated  watering  place  and 
resort  of  the  JBostonians  during  the  summer  months.- 


I::f|l 


ill    y 


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'i 


J!' 


B 


^0! 


BOSTON. 

CHAPTER    XXIX. 

Boston — Site  of  Boston — Harbour — Bridges — State  House- 
Slabs  from  the  Beacon-hill  Monument,  with  inscriptions — Re- 
presentatives Hall — Devices  and  Inscriptions — Dome — Senate 
Chamber — Arms  of  the  State — Cap  of  Liberty — Numoer  of 
rooms — Height  ofCupola — Regulations — View  from  the  north 
window  of  the  Cupola— East  winddw — South  window — West 
window. 

The  city  of  Boston,  with  a  population  of  1 14,366  in- 
habitants, the  capitol  of  Massachuseets  and  the  princi- 
pal city  ot  New  England,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
small  hilly  peninsula,  on  Massachusetts  bay,  with  a 
safe  and  commodious  harbor,  deep  enough  to  admit  the 
largest  vessels,  and  so  completely  land-locked  as  to  be 
perfectly  secure,  and  large  enough  to  contain  six  hun- 
dred ships  at  once.  Several  forts  erected  on  the  isl- 
ands to  the  eastward,  command  thfe  approaches  to  the 
city.  Besides  this  main  high  and  commanding  penin* 
sula,  the  city  comprises  another  peninsula  called  South 
Boston,  connected  with  the  main  city  by  two  free  brid- 
ges. The  city  also  comprises  the  island  of  East  Bos- 
ton, with  which  communication  is  kept  up  by  a  num- 
ber of  steam  ferry-boats^  On  the  north,  four  bridges 
connect  the  citv  with  Charleston,  on  the  northwest 
with  Cambridge,  and  a  solid  causeway  of  earth  unites 
it  with  Brooklin,  on  the  west.  Before  the  erection  of 
this  great  causeway,  all  the  lowlands  to  the  south  of  it 
were  overflowed  by  the  tide,  with  perhaps  ten  or  twelve 
feet  of  water.  A  narrow  neck  of  land  which  has  been 
raised  and  widened  by  artificial  construction,  joins  it 
to  Roxbury,  the  main  portion  of  the  city  being  entire- 


STATE   UOUSE    AT    BOSTOxV. 


3U 


jy  surrounded  with  water.  The  peninsula  is  bounded 
on  the  north,  east  and  south  by  the  bay  and  Charles 
river,  and  on  the  west  by  a  large,  open  marsh,  contain- 
ing  water  to  the  depth  of  several  feet. 

The  city  is  very  irregularly  built,  having  no  streets 
bi  any  considerable  length,  being  entirely  destitute  of 
a  handsome  street  of  one  hundred'yards  in  length,  they 
being  generally  crooked,  narrow  and  roughly  paved. 
The  buildings  are  lofty  and  beautiful,  from  three  to  five 
stories  in  height.  It  is  very  rare  that  you  see  a  build- 
ing under  the  height  of  three  stories,  all  of  which  are 
constructed  either  ol  granite  or  brick,  and  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  older  part  of  the  cityj  possess  considera- 
ble excellence. 

The  peninsula  w^as  first  settled  in  1630;  the  first 
churcn  built  in  1632  ;  the  first  market  erected  in  1634 
and  the  first  newspaper  published  in  America,  was  is- 
sued here  in  1704. 

Objects  of  attraction.  The  State  House. — The 
corner-stone  of  this  splendid  edifice  was  laid  July  4th, 
1795,  on  land  formerly  owned  by  Governor  Hancock, 
near  the  top  of  Beacon  Hill.  This  hill  is  150  feet  a- 
bove  high  water  mark,  which  is  truly  a  splendid  emi- 
nence in  the  centre  of  the  city.  (On  the  top  of  this 
beautiful  eminence  stood  the  old  Beacon  Hill  Monu- 
ment, which  was  taken  down  in  1804,  and  the  four 
slabs  which  formed  the  base,  now  remain  to  be  seen  at 
the  foot  ot  the  stairs  leading  to  the  cupola.)  This  ele- 
gant building  is  constructed  of  patent  brick,  and  is  of 
an  oblong  form,  173  feet  front,  and  61  feet  deep.  Li 
consists  of  a  basement  story  28  feet  high,  and  a  princi* 


ujc  I 


ifii 


♦^ 


li  ; 


uUy, 


*     ! 


3ie 


6TATE     HOUSE. 


'iid 


pal  story  30  feet  high.  The  centre  ol"  the  front  is  cov- 
ered with  an  attic  60  feet  wide  and  20  leet  high,  which 
is  covered  with  a  pediment.  Immediately  above  this 
rises  a  dome  52  feet  in  diameter  and  35  feet  high  ;  the 
whole  terminates  with  an  elegant  circular  lantern,  25 
feet  high,  supporting  a  gilded  pine  cone.  The  lower 
story  is  finished  plain  on  the  wings,  with  square  win- 
dows.  The  centre  is  94  feet  in  length,  and  formed  of 
arches  ivhich  project  14  feet ;  they  form  a  covered  walk 
below,  arid  support  a  colonnade  of  Corinthian  columns 
of  the  same  extent  above.  The  outside  walls  are  of 
large  patent  brick. 

The  lower  story  is  divided  into  a  large  hall,  or  pub- 
lic walk  in  the  centre,  50  feet  square  and  20  feet  high, 
supported  by  Doric  columns  in  the  centre,  and  on  the 
north  side  of  this  story,  is  placed  Chantrey's  highly 
finished  statue  of  Washington.  As  the  visitor  enters 
the  State  House  at  the  south  front,  he  beholds  the  stat- 
ue through  the  arched  passage-way  that  leads  from  the 
Doric  hall  to  the  apartment  where  it  is  placed.  This 
statue,  together  with  the  pedestal  on  which  it  stands 
and  the  little  temple  in  which  it  is  placed,  cost  the 
sum  of  $16,000. 

Near  the  back  door  and  at  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  are 

the  four  large  slabs  above   named,   which   formed   the 

pedestal  of  the  monument  on  Beacon  Hill;  on  one  ot 

which  there  is  the  following  inscription  : 

'•To  conDmmorate  that  train  of  events  which  led  to  the  A- 
merican  Revolution  and  finally  secured  Liberty  and  f'^-epcn- 
dence  to  the  United  States,  this  column  is  erected  by  lae  vohm- 
tgry  contribution  of  the  citizens  of  Boston.  A  D  C  C  X  C 


?iLAlBS  Ol'    BLACON  lllLL  MONl'MENT. 


313 


Stnmn  Art  pn^ud  176;).  Repealed  J7(j(),  Bcxinl  oj  Customs 
'i  Jnhlislied  17H7,  Hritish  tronvsfirtd  v.poa  ihc  inkabttaufs  of 


I  / /o^  nafKc  ((7  jyatiKci  a  am  jhiiv  i/,  v*  ui^nin^ijoiiiiiOK  com- 
mand of  the  armij^ulij  2,  liostun  evmtuitcd  JMatek  17,  177,H, 
indcpcndeace  dcclnrcd'hii  Congress.   July  4.    1776,   Hancock 
Pfcsidek'.t^  C<^ptwc  of  llessmnsat  Titn-ton^  Dec.  26,  Capture 
nf  Hessipt,is  at  Benniaiitoit^    Anirust    16,    1777,  Capture   of 
jiritiahnrmij  at  Sarafog;a.  Oct.  17,  1777,  Alliance  with  France 
fclh  6.  \7Jh,iConfcderaiion  of  tJnitcd  States  formed  July  !), 
^U)\\Mitation  of  Massachusetts  formed  1781),   Howdoin  Presi- 
d'Hit  of  the- Convention,  Capture  vf  the  Briii^sh  army  at  York 
Oct.  id,  \1  SI,  Preliminaries  of  Peace  Nov. 'SO,  1782,  Deji- 
■  Aite  Treaty  of  Peace  Sept.    10,   1783,  Federal   Constitution 
formed  Sent,  17,  1787,  and  ratijitd  by  the  United  States  1787, 
to  1790,   New  Congress,  msemhled  ot  New  York   April  16. 
178i),  Washington   inaugurated  President  Ajyril  30.  Pidfu. 
Debts  funded  ^August  4,  "1790. 

Americans  :  while  froni  this  eniincnce.  scenes  of  lujcunl'ni 
fn'iility  and  Jlourishing  ccimwircc  tind'^ltr.  'nhnar^  of  sot'ini 
hippincss  meet  your  view^  forget  not  th\)sc  who  by  their  exei  - 
lions  have  secured  to  you  these  blessings. 


From  the  slabs  above  noticed,  our  rittcnliou  is  ac^ait\ 
(h'awn  to  the  capllol.  Two  entries  open  at  each  cvA 
.'Ki.ieet  wide,  witli  two  (lights  of  stairs  in  e.ach,  on  both 
sides  ot  which  are  oifices.  On  the  west  Wingthe  Sec- 
jt^tary's  dejiaitment  in  front  and  the  A<ljnttint  Gener- 
al's in  the  rear;  on  th(»  east  wincT,,the  Treasurer's  de- 
putment  in  front  and  ithe  Lattd  Agtjut'sjjLJa'iJLibrj^ry  in 
the  rear.  In  .I81«t>,  fo;  t'be  fmthe.r  acreuiniodation  ot 
the  Library,  the  legislatufe  mad^j  an  ap[»ropriation  i\\ 
the  finishing!;  ot  a  room  in  the  li.isement  stoi  v,  undci 
'the  west  wing.  Thn  library  is  accessible  to  the  merrr 
■■  T.;  o(  till'  Ceneial  t^'i.'urt  at  all  (iirirs. 
11 


■■'r  I; 


•  r  H 


H 


IV- 


n ,! 


,  1 


¥M 


iTf' 


3M.       RuniESENTATlVES  IIALL  —  SENATE  CIlAMCtK'^ 

The  rooms  above,  are  the  Representatives  Hall  lu 
the  centre,  55  feet  square.  This  hall  is  finished  with 
Doric  columns  on  two  sides,  1 2  feet  from  the  lloui; 
forrtiing  galleries;,  the  Doric  establatures  surround  tlu 
whole ;  from  this  s]  ring  four  flat  arches  on  the  sidt . 
which  being  united  by  a  circular  cornice  above,  fuiii; 
in  the  angles,  four  large  pendants  to  a  bold  and  wili 
proportioned  dome.  The  pendants  are  ornameiittil 
with  emblems  of  commerce,  agriculture,  peace  and  war 
Directly  over  the  speaker's  chair,  on  the  north  side  ol 
the  hall,  is  placed  the  State  armsj  and  a  little  abovi 
may  be  seen  the  gilded  eagle,  just  ready  to  fly,  havint; 
in  his  beak  a  large  scroll  with  the  following  inscrip' 
lion  in  larg^  gilt  letters :  "God  save  the  Commo.v- 
WEALTH  OF  MASSACHUSETTS."  On  the  south  side,  op- 
posite to  the  eagle^  is  a  mammoth  codfish,  an  emblen; 
of  the  fisheries  of  Massachusetts. 

The  centre  of  the  dome  is  50  feet  from  the  floor:  the 
6peaker'*s  chair  is  placed  on  the  north  side  ;  the  clciil 
on  the  right  ol  the  speaker;  tlie  permanent  .seats  in  a 
semicircular  form,  so  arranged  as  to  accommodate  300 
members  on  the  floor;  the  front  west  gallery  is  for  the 
use  of  members  of  the  legislature  ;  the  rear  gallery  for 
the  use  ot  the  public ;  east  front  gallerj^  lor  the  ladies; | 
the  rear  gallery  for  the  public. 

In  the  east  wing  is  the  Senate  Chamber,  55  ft^Qi  loii'j 
by  33  feet  wide  and  30  feet  high  ;  highly  finished  iiil 
the  Ionic  order  of  architecture.  Two  screens  support 
with  establatures,  a  rich  and  elegant  arched  ceilin:^.- 
This  room  is  also  ornamented  with  Ionic  pilasters,  with 
the  arms  of  the  State  and  of  the  United  States,  nlaceil 


STATE     n0U?K. 


315 


'"■  IM' 


ill  opposite  panels.  Directly  opposite  the  door,  is  pla- 
ced the  president's  chair ;  on  the  right  and  left  are  seat- 
ed the  members,  beginning  with  the  oldest  member  in 
office  on  the  right  of  the  president.  There  are  forty 
members  in  this  branch  of  the  legislature. 

In  the  west  wing  is  the  Council  Chamber,  27  feet 
square  and  20  leet  high,  with  a  flat  ceiling  ;  the  walls 
are  finished  with  Corinthian  pilasters  and  panels  of 
stucco.  These  panels  are  enriched  with  State  arms, 
the  emblems  of  executive  power,  the  scale  and  sword 
of  justice,  the  insignia  of  arts  and  freedom,  the  cadu- 
ceus  and  cap  of  liberty  ;  the  whole  decorated  with 
wreaths  of  oak  and  laurel.  In  the  rea.  ^f  this  room  on 
'the  same  floor,  is  a  small  room  called  the  Governor's 
room,  and  the  antechamber  for  the  use  of  the  commit- 
tees of  the  council. 

Besides  these  principal  rooms,  there  are  no  less  than 
[twenty-five  smaller  ones  for   the   use  of  the  several 
committees.     The  cost  of  this  famous  capitol  amount- 
ed to  $133,833,33.    It  was  first  occupied  by  the  Leg- 
[islature  on  the  11th  of  January,  1798,  upwards  of  three 
?ears  after  its  commencement.     The  foundation  of  this^ 
edifice  as  before  stated,  is  about  150  feet  above  the  lev- 
^1  of  the  sea.     Its  elevation  and  size  make   it   a  verv 
conspicuous  object.     Two  flights  of  stairs  lead   to  the 
[op  of  the  outer  dome  or  circular  lantern,    170  steps 
irom  the  lower  floor.     This  lantei*n  contains  four  large 
[vihdows,  situated  north,  south,  east  and  west,  whicb 
r'indow's  are  230  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.     T^\\^ 
[iew  from  these  windows  afl^ords  the  spectator  one  of 
le  most  interesting  and  beautiful  spectacles.     It  is  free 


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4o  the  public  at  all  times,  by  the  stranger  registerini; 
his  name  in  a  book  kept  lor  the  purpose,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  Sundays,  Thanksgivings  and  Fast  days,\vhrn 
entrance  is  prohibited  by  order  of  the  General  Court, 
The  views  from  this  cupola  are  various  in  the  extreme 
and  the  objects  are  here  noted  as  they  are  seen  from 
each  window  in  succession,  which  embrace  a  greater 
variety,  and  present  more  grandeur  and  beaut}'^,  than 
can  be  found  on  the  same  area  of  ground  on  the  west- 
ern hemisphere. 

Jforth  Window  of  the  Cupola. — On  the  left  is  CaiTrl 
ibridgeport,  with  Old  Cambridge  in  th.e  distance.  Har| 
vard  University  is  in  this  town,  but  cannot  be  riistincti 
Jy  pointed  out.  To'  the  right  of  Cambridge  no  it  isEasi 
.Cambridge,  with  its  extensive  glass  works,  wnich  caDl 
be  distinguished  by  their  tall  chimneys.  Beyond  aDJl 
a  little  to  the  left  of  East  Cambridge,  is  seen  the  towel 
of  West  Cambridge.  Directly  in  the  range  of  the  gh\ 
works,  is  the  McLean  Hospital  SDt  the  InsanJ 
<(lQC^t.e;l  jin  SoiTiervillej}  which  4S  a  department  ofMas-l 
sachiisetts  General  Hospital. 

Somerville  is  a  village  Seen  to  the  leit  and  partly  eal 
a  hill,  which  is  Winter  Hill.     This  eminence  servei| 
as  a  protection  to  the  Americans  in  their  retreat  frou 
Bunker  Hill";  and  cannon-shot  are  frequently  dug  oil 
of  its  sides.     To  the  right  of  the  Hospital,  in  the  disl 
tance,  stand  the  ruins  of  the  Ursuline  Convent,  on  M| 
Benedict.     This  Convent  was  burnt  in  the  month 
August,  1834«.     Directly  beyond  the  ruins  is  seen  t 
town  of  Medford,  famous  for  its  ship  building.    Mall 
den  is  a  town  seen  bevond  and  to  thf»  left  th(>  Bum 


S  t  A  T  K      11  O  U  8  K 


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Hill  Monument.     Let  the  eye  cross  the  water,  (which 
n  a  part  of  Charles  river,)  directly    east    of  the  glass 
works,  to  where  stands  the  Massachusetts  State  Prison, 
which  is  a  cluster  of  granite  buildinj^s,  situated  in  the 
city  of  Charleston.     The  principal  objects  in  that  town 
l(j  interest  the  stranger,  are    BiinLer    liill    Monument 
land  the  Navy  V^ard.     A  description  of  each,  with  oth- 
^r objects  in  both  cities,  will  be  given  in  their  propev 
[place.     The  Navy  Yard  is  to  the  right  of  the   Monu- 
ment, and  can  be  easily  distinguished  by  its  ship  hou-. 
ses,  under  which  stand  some  of  tli43  largest  ships  of  the 
[American  navy.     In  the  back  ground  of  the  navy  yard 
is  the  town  of  Chelsea.     In  thi^  town  are   located  the 
hhiine  and  Naval  Hospitals  belonging  to.  the.  United 
pJtates,  which  are  two  large  granite  buildings,  to  the 
rii^ht  and  left  of  the  farther  end  of  the  Bridj^e.    To,  th(y 
right  of  the  town  of  Chelsea,  in  the  distance,  is  the  fa- 
jiiious  town  of  Lynn,  already  noti'ced. 

From  Lynn  the  attention  is  drawn  baclj:  to  Boston; 
t)ii  the  left  the  most  prominent  object  which  striltes 
Iht!  eye,  is  a  large  granite  build ing^  which  is  the  ]^as- 
^ichusetts  General  Hospital,  the  left  wing  of  whicl>  has 
feeeii  erected  within  the  past  year.  The  funds  foi?that 
jurpose  (about  $60,000,)  were  subscribeiiT  by  a  few  be- 
levolent  individuals  of  the  city;  the  objec*  being  to- 
ifforJ  more  opportunity  for  free  beds  for  poor  people. 
Phere  is  seen  to  the  left  of  the  Hospital,  the  Medical 
tollege,  tor  the  use  of  students  during  the  season  for 
[he  lectures  on  Medicine  and  Surgery.     To  the   right 

the  Hospital   is  seen    the    Wells   Schoolhouse.     A 
ii'ge  church  to  the  ri-jht  of  one  fronting  the  spectator. 


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is  the  West  Cimrch,  Jjetter  known  as  Dr.  Lowell's)  on 
Lyndo  street.  Two  very  lart^e  l)uil(lingf?,  seen  direct- 
ly over  Dr.  Lowell's  Cliiirch,  are  the  warehouses  and 
depot  connected  with  the  Boston  and  Lowell  railroad. 
Between  the  church  and  the  depot  can  be  seen  the 
County  Jail.  To  the  right  of  the  jail  is  seen  the  school 
house  recently  erected,  called  the  Otis  school,  named 
in  honor  of  that  venerable  patriot,  Harrison  Gray  Otis. 
At  the  opening  of  the  school  in  March,  1844&,  Mr.  0- 
tis  was  present,  and  among  other  things  stated  that  for- 
ty years  ago,  the  place  where  the  schoolhouse  now 
stands,  was  then  a  mill-pond,  and  the  tide  flowed  into 
it  to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  feet.  Nearer  the  spec- 
tator, to  the  right  of  Dr.  Lowell's  church,  are  seen  the 
spire;' of  Grace  church,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  church- 
es in  Boston.  A  vacant  lot  could  be  seen,  on  which 
8omo  workmen  were  employed,  which  is  intended  for 
one  of  the  reservoirs  for  the  aqueduct.  Directly  in 
fr'ont  of  Grace  church,  in  Bowdoin  street,  isseenBow- 
doln  street  church,  to  the  right  of  that  is  Bowdoin 
square  Baptist  church.  In  rear  of  the  latter  church  is 
jpeen  the  National  Theatre. 

Or^  the  extreme  right  is  seen  a  church  with  the  high 
pteeple,  wh.icl>  is  Christ  church,  in  Salem  street.  This 
rhui'ch  contains  a  set  of  chime-bells,  the  music  of  which 
;s  truly  delightful.  It  is  situated  near  to  Copp's  Hill, 
celebrated  in  the  history  of  Boston.  On  this  hill  can 
be  found  the  tomb  of  the  famous  Increas*  and  Cotton 
Mather.  The  eye  cast  over  the  top  of  the  city  to  the 
water,  where  s,ix  bridges  will  attract  the  attention  froti) 
this  window,     Tb^  first  on  the  extreme  left  js  Cra^ie'? 


i  T  A  T  i;    11  o  r  ft  i: . 


3h) 


')ri(lge  to  Knst  Camhriilgo ;  tho  next  is  Charles  river 
firid^r^,  leadinp;  to  Catn!)riilgoport ;  still  farther  to  lh»» 
ri.rht  ar«^  Boston  and  Lowell  railroatl  hridt^c ;  Boston 
anil  Maine  railroad  bridge;  (the  depot  of  this  road  if? 
,•,'011  to  tho  right  of  the  Bowdoin  square  church,)  and 
the  Warren  and  Charleston  bridges ;  the  two  latter  are 
o\vned  by  the  State  afid  are  free  bridges.  Directly  in 
range  of  Cragie*s  brid  ^e  is  seen  a  curious  round  build- 
ing, which  is  used  as  an  engine  house  for  tlwi  Boston 
and  Lowell  railroad. 

To  the  right  of  the  Boston  end  of  the  Warren  bridge 
is  the  depot  of  the  Fitchburg  railroad.  A  large  round 
building  is  seen  in  front  of  the  State  Prison  in  Charles- 
ton, which  is  the  engine  house  belonging  to  the  Bos- 
ton and  Maine  extension  railroad.  From  this  window, 
on  a  clear  day  with  a  good  telescope,  two  mountains 
can  be  seen  in  a  range  of  East  Cambridge,  one  called 
Mount  Watutick  on  the  borders  of  the  State,  and  a  lit- 
tle to  the  right  ot  that  can  be  seen  the  top  of  Mount 
Monadnock,  said  to  be  situated  in  Jcflrcy,  in  the  State 
of  New  Hampshire. 

I  rom  this  same  window,  on  a  clear  cfay  the  same 
mountains  can  be  seen  without  the  aid  of  a  telescope, 
by  simply  fixing  the  eye  upon  a  very  large  brick  buil- 
ding, situated  in  Ea«t  Cambridge  on  the  left,  and  rais- 
ing the  eye  to  the  back  ground,  when  can  be  seen  tol- 
erably distinct  Mount  Watutick,  near  the  town  of  Ash- 
burnham,  on  the  borders  of  the  Slate,  as  above  named. 
In  the  same  manner  can  be  seen  Mount  Monadnock,  a 
little  to  the  right  of  it  in  the  State  of  New  Hamp- 
shire. 


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East  Window, — From  this  window  we  have  the  har- 
bor, with  its  forts,  islands,  wharves  and  shipping,  which 
is  truly  a  grand  scene  ol' itself,  and  more  particularly 
on  tlie  4.th  of  July,  when  the  mighty  hay  olMassachii- 
setts  was  spotted  over  with  ships,  and  the  wharves 
crowded:  the  whole  of  this  powerful  array  of  shippino- 
with  their  hundreds  ot  towerir\g  masts,  all  crowned 
with  national  colors,  proudly  floating  in  the  breeze, 
had  really  an  imposing  eflect  on  the  stranger  while  ga- 
zing, on  the  scene  from  this  window. 

An  island  in  front  of  the  vyindow,  at  a  distance  ofc- 
bout  two  miles,  is  knov.n  hy  the  name  of  East  Boston,. 
and  contains  about  800  acres.  It  was  ca41ed  Noddle't; 
island  by  tlie  first  settlers>.but  of  late  years  it  has  been 
known  by  tlie  name  of  William's  Island.  It  is  said 
there  Were  but  two  or  three  houses  upon  it  as  late  as 
1833.  The  population  at  present  is  about  7000.  The 
rapid  increase  of  this  place  is  probably  owing  to.tlit^ 
Eastern  railroad  depot  being  there.  A  very  large 
brick  building  seen  is  the  sugar  refinery^  which  is  a 
very  extensive  GonceT.n,  employing  about  100  men. — 
To  the  right  of  the  sugar-iiouse  is  the  depot  of  the  Eas- 
tern railroad,  antL  still  farther  to  the  right,  of  thM  is  the 
Cunard.  wharf,  used  for  the  British  line  of  mail  steair- 
ers.  The  first  island  on  the  right  is  Goverupr's  islaml, 
on  which  is  situated  fort  Warren.  To  the  right  of  fort 
Warren  in  the  distance,  is  the  Boston  Lighthouse,  dis- 
tant about  13  miles.  To  the  left  of  Governor's  island 
is  seen  a  beautiful  little  island,  known  as  Apple  island. 
To  the  right  h  fort  Independence,  situated  on  Castle 
iisland.     It  was  at  this  fort  that  th^  nnlorious  Steplieu 


^  T  A  r  i:    II  u  u  ?  t:  . 


3'il 


Burroughs  was  once  coufinecj,  tho  fort  at  that  tiine  be- 
ing uspd  for  the  reception  of  convicts.  Fort  George  u 
seen  in  the  distance,  between  Governor's  Island  and 
Castle  Island.  The  eye  is  again  drawn  to  Boston,  in 
which  we  have  a  little  to  the  left  of  a  front  view,  Fan- 
euil  Hall,  and  directly  between  thai  and  thd  water  i-s 
seen  Faneuil  Hall  Market- 
To  the  left  of  Faneuil  Hall  is  seen  the  long  block  of 
granite  stores  on  Commercial  wharf;  and  back  of  that 
is  Lewis's  wharf.  To  the  rig-ht  of  the  market  is  seen 
the  Custom  House,  easily  distinguished  by  its  granite 
dome,  which  is  found  on  examination  to  be  a  splendid 
structure.  Directly  between  the  Custom  House  and 
the  spectator,  is  seen  a  large  stone  building,  occupied 
by  the  Boston  Museum,  which  is  found  to  be  an  im- 
mense granite  edifice.  In  rear  of  the  Museum  is  seen 
the  Court  House,  which  is  a  beautiful  granite  buildino;. 
A  little  to  the  left  of  Faneuil  Hall  Market,  and  near 
the  spectator,  is  seen  the  top  of  a  church  in  Brattle 
street.  In  the  front  of  this  church  can  be  seen  a  can- 
non ball  embedded  in  the  brick.  The  ball  was  fired 
by  the  American  army  stationed  in  Cambridge,  on  the 
night  previous  to  the  evacuation  of  Boston  by  the  Brit- 
ish, March  i7th,  1770.  The  ball  was  picked  up  and 
firmly  fixed  in  the  cavity  it  had  formed. 

A  beautiful  Gothic  church  is  seen  lieneath  the  spec- 
tator's eye,  which  is  the  Swedenborgian  church.  To 
the  right  of  it  and  near  the  spectator,  is  Old  South,  a 
church  so  called,  and  is  at  the  corner  of  Washington 
and  Milk  streets.     During  the  revolution,  the  pews  of 

this  church  were  taken  out  and  used  for  fuel  by  the 

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STATE      II  O  U  S  fe  . 


British  soldiers,  and  the  building  itself  converted  intd 
a  riding  school  for  the  dragoons  belonging  to  Burgoyne's 
army.  To  the  right  of  the  City  Hall,  nearer  the  spec- 
tator, is  the  Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society's  Hall,- 
and  to  the  right  of  that  is  seen  the  Tremont  Temple, 
(formerly  the  Tremont  Theatre,)  but  laterly  it  has  been 
occupied  by  the  far-famed  Millerites.  Immediately  in 
front  of  the  Tremont  Temple  is  the  Tremont  House,  a 
large  and  splendid  granite  edifice,  occupied  as  a  hoteL 
Directly  beneath  the  spectator's  eye,  on  Beacon  ^reetj 
is  seen  a  very  large  granite  bnilding  in  process  of  erec-* 
tion,  which  is  intended  for  the  Boston  Athenaeum. — 
The  farthest  point  of  land  to  be  seen  from  this  window 
on  the  left,  is  Nahant,  which  has  already  been  noticed. 
The  hotel  is  seen  distinctly  and  is  distant  about  9  miles. 
South  Window. — Castle  idand  and  fort  Independ- 
ence can  be  seen  from  this  window,  directly  over  the 
sprre  of  Federal  Street  Church.  To  the  right  of  the 
church  is  seen,  on  a  long  island  called  Thompson's  isl- 
and, a  farm  school,  belonging  to  the  city,  where  per- 
sons can  place  their  boys  at  school  and  have  them  la- 
bor upon  a  farm  during  a  certain  number  of  hours  each 
day.  Directly  in  front  of  this  island,  stands  the  City 
Prison,  being  the  Houses  of  Correction,  Reformation 
and  Industry,  together  with  the  Insane  Hospital.  The 
House  of  Correction  is  devoted  to  the  punishment  of 
•those  convicted  of  crimes  in  the  Police  Court  of  the 
city  ;  the  House  of  Industry  is  for  the  support  and  re- 
lief of  the  virtuous  poor,  who  seek  this  refuge  from 
misfortune  or  age ;  the  House  of  Reformation  is  for  the 
punishment  of  juvenile  offenders,  who  have  not  arrived 


»  T  A  T  n    li  0  i:  s  i: . 


at  years  of  discretion.  To  the  right  of  th<?  prison,  on 
a  hill,  is  seen  the  Perkins  Institutute  and  Massachusetts 
Asylum  for  the  Blind,  situated  on  one  of  the  hills  for- 
tified by  order  of  Washington  during  the  occupation 
of  Boston  by  the  British,  the  breastworks  of  which  are 
yet  remaining. 

In  the  back  ground  is  the  town  of  Quincy.  A  town 
to  the  right  of  Quincy  is  Dorchester,  and  to  the  right 
of  Dorchester  is  Roxbury.  The  Boston  and  Providence 
railroad  and  the  Boston  and  Worcester  railroad  cross 
each  other  in  an  open  marsh  on  the  right.  The  Prov- 
idence railroad  runs  directly  from  the  spectator.  In 
Boston  the  object  on  the  extreme  left  as  seen  from  this 
window,  is  Federal  Street  Church.  A  church  close  to 
the  spectator  is  Park  Street  Church.  From  this  win- 
dow can  be  seen  the  Granary  burial-ground,  where  is 
a  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  Franklin 
family.  To  the  right  of  Park  Street  Church,  on  Tre- 
mont  street,  is  the  Masonic  Temple,  which  is  a  rough 
granite  building.  To  the  Iv  ft  of  the  Temple  is  seen 
St.  Paul's  Church  ;  in  a  range  is  seen  the  spire  of  the 
Baptist  Church  in  Rowe  street, 

To  the  left  of  Park  street  church  is  seen  Trinity 
Church,  which  is  a  rough  granite  edifice,  built  in  the 
massive  Gothic  style,  A  little  to  the  right  of  Trinity 
Church  is  seen  Young's  Church.  Over  the  top  of  Green 
Church  can  be  seen  the  Chauncey  Place  Church,  which 
belongs  to  the  oldest  religious  society  in  Boston.  Di- 
rectly over  a  red  brick  turret,  which  is  Essex  street 
Church,  is  seen  the  depot  ol  the  Boston  and  Worcester 
and  Western  railroad.     This  is  easily  seen  by  its  ex- 


•f.  ^,:|;->!. 


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?  T  A  !■  i:     Tf  o  r  5  E  . 


tensive  rooi";  and  beyorwl  this  is  seen  the  new  Cath(3lic 
Chnrch,  a  splendid  edifice  situated  in  South  Boston. — 
The  depot  of  the  Old  Colony  railroad  is  seen  near  the 
depot  of  the  Worccrster  road.     From  this  window  can 
be  seen  three  different  rnilroad  routes  to  the  city  of 
New  York.     The  on>.'  on  the  ri;^ht  running  directly 
from  you,  will  taUe  3'ou  f)y  the  way  of  Providenco,  in 
Rhode  Island,  to  Stonington  in  Connecticut,  near  the 
head  of  Long  Island  Sound;  the  second  by  the  way  of 
Worcester,  to  Norwich  in  Connecticut  ]  the  oneonth;j 
left,  (which  is  the  Old  Culony  railroad,)  lead:;  to  Fall 
river;  each  of  which  road?,  are  connected  with  steatn- 
hoat  lines,  which  run  regular  to  the  city  of  New  York, 
To  the  left  of  the  Essex  street  Church,  and  near  the 
spectator,  is  seen  the  Latin  sclioolliouse,  a  splendid  ed- 
ifice, in  which  there  are  two  apartments:  one  for  the 
High  School,  where  boys  can  prepare  in  the  most  thor- 
ough manner  for  almost  any  business  in  life,  and  the 
other  where  hoys  are  fitted  for  Coll e^.     A  large  brick 
buildins:  seen  to  the  nortli  of  the  Boston  and  Worcester 
depot,  is  the  United  States  Hotel,  which  is  the  largest 
in  the  city.     The  Common,  directly  beneath  the  spec^ 
tator's  eye,  contains  fifty-five  acres,  and  its  form  some- 
what resembles  a  cone  ;  the   whole   handsomely  and 
tastefully  laid  out.     Beautiful  and  well  gravelled  walks 
are  seen  from  this  window  in  almost  every  direction 
through  the  grounds;,  together  with  its  many  graceful 
shade  trees  and  handsome  iron  fence,  causes  it  to  pre- 
sent a  very  beautiful  appearance.     Between  the  Com- 
m.on  and  the  morshj  is  seen  the  public  Garden,  with 
its  numerous  shrubbery,  (lower?,  swings,  he. 


STAT  i:    If  it  i;  s  E  . 


IVesi  Window. —  Directly  beneatli  the  eye,  on  the 
left,  is  seen  the  house  that  was  once  owned  and  occu- 
pied by  the  Hon.  John  Hancock  ;  it  is  easily  noticed 
by  its  antique  appearance,  being  built  of  very  rough 
stone.  A  bridge  in  front  is  the  western  avenue.  Pre- 
vious to  the  building  of  this  bridge  or  causeway,  which 
is  constructed  of  earth  and  stone,  and  is  thereby  made 
solid,  all  the  lowlands  to  the  south  of  it,  (part  of  which 
is  yet  a  marsh,)  were  overflowed  by  the  tide  with  as 
much  water  as  there  is  now  on  the  north  side  of  the 
causeway,  which  is  10  or  12  feet  deep,  A  great  ma- 
ny houses  are  now  built  on  land  so  reclaimed.  Some 
buildinsrs  seen  on  the  farther  end  of  the  avenue,  are 
known  by  the  name  of  the  City  Mills.  Directly  over 
them  is  seen  the  town  of  Brooklin.  A  body  of  water 
seen  in  front  is  Charles  river.  Cambridgeport  is  on  the 
right,  which  is  also  seen  upon  the  left  from  the  north 
window.  Between  Cambridgeport  and  the  window  is 
seen  just  in  front,  the  Charles  street  Baptist  Church,  a 
truly  splendid  structure.  Directly  in  range  with  the 
church  is  seen  the  town  of  Brighton.  By  carefully 
observinoj  the  horizon  a  little  to  the  rio;ht  of  the  church, 
on  a  clear  day,  the  Wachusett  Mountain  can  be  seen, 
which  mountain  I  saw  very  distinctly  with  the  aid  of 
a  telescope,  without  which  it  cannot  be  distinctly  seen. 
It  is  situated  near  the  town  of  Princeton,  and  near  the 
source  of  the  Chickopee  river. 

The  view  from  these  windows  is  truly  very  rxten?^ 
give  and  variegated  ;  perhaps  nothing  in  the  United 
States  is  equal  to  it.  From  this*  window  is  a  ^n\Q 
view  of  Charlec  river  and  the  bay,  the  town  of  Cam- 


m 


i   '?i 


•  ns 


I 


^^i'..i.j^ 


ii~">f, 


1- 


(^26 


r  A  N  K  U  I  L     HALL. 


i . 


Hrfc. 


IS  <i 

i 


IN 


bridge,  rendered  venerable  for  the  University  two  cen- 
turies old,  and  the  nunncrous  towns  in  the  distance. — 
Fronn  the  north  window  the  eye  is  met  by  the  memo- 
rable heights  of  Charleston,  crowned  with  a  towerino- 
monument,  which  stands  there  boldly  to  commemorate 
not  only  our  liberty,  but  the  dawn  of  the  liberty  oftho 
world. 


CHAPTER    XXX. 

Fanoiiil  Hall — View  from  the  Cupola — Old  buildings — Paintings 
— Qiiincy  Market — Custom- House — Order  of  Architecture — 
Museum — Massachusetts  General  Hospital — Court-House — 
Old  State  Flouse — Houses  of  Industry,  Correction  and  Refor- 
mation— AthencRum — Institution  for  the  Blii.  * — Eye  and  Ear 
Infirmary — Trinity  Churciv — St,  Paul's  Church — Park  Street 
Church — Bridges — Wharves — Boston  Common — Valuation  of 
the  Common — Remark — Cemetery — Pond — Great  Elm  Tree. 

After  enjoying  the  magnificent  prospect  Irom  the 
windows  of  the  cupola  of  the  State  House,  the  next 
move  of  the  stranger  will  be  to  visit  Faneuil  Hall,  sit- 
uated at  the  intersection  of  State  and  Tremont  streets. 
This  venerable  old  building  is  so  thronged  with  im- 
mortal reminiscenses  as  to  be  called  the  "cradle  of  lib- 
erty." This  structure  was  commenced  in  the  year 
1740,  by  Peter  Faneuil,  Esq.,  and  in  1742,  or  2  years 
afterwards,  at  his  own  expense,  and  generously  given 
to  the  town.  It  is  built  of  brick  which  have  since  been 
stained  to  the  color  of  grey  granite.  The  lower  story 
of  the  building  was  intended  by  Mr.  Faneuil  for  a  mar- 
ket-house, and  used  as  such  till  the  year  1827,  the  sc- 


1  ■-«'lr»'1 


F  A  N  E  u I L    Hall. 


327 


Con  J  story  being  used  as  a  Town  Hall.  The  buildino; 
was  then  100  feet  in  length  and  40  feet  in  width. — 
This  valuable  gift  was  consumed  by  fire,  (except  the 
brick  walls,)  several  years  after  the  death  of  Mr.  Fan- 
euil,  or  some  time  in  the  year  1761.  Boston,  howev- 
er, resolved  immediately  to  rebuild  it  in  the  same  style 
it  was  before,  it  being  the  building  in  which  meetings 
were  held,  and  Columbia's  illustrious  sons  counselled 
together,  for  the  purpose  of  giving  proud  old  England 
that  staggering  blow,  from  which  she  never  will  recov- 
er to  the  end  oi  time*  In  1805  it  was  enlarged,  by 
adding  40  feet  to  its  width,  and  25  to  its  elevation, 
thus  making  it  one  hundred  feet  by  eighty  feet.  There 
is  a  cupola  on  the  building,  affording  a  fine  view  of  the 
harbor  and  a  large  portion  of  the  old  part  of  the  city. 
In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  this  noble  old  building  can 
be  seen  many  of  those  old,  antiquated,  gable-ended, 
top-heavy  houses,  crowded  together,  as  if  the  little  hil- 
ly peninsula  of  Boston  was  the  only  spot  of  ground  on 
earth.  This  constituted  the  compact  centre  of  Boston 
in  the  days  of  the  old  English  Governors ;  and  so  far  as 
the  word  compact  is  concerned,  I  think  it  was  very 
appropriately  applied,  and  the  word  might  bo  applied 
to  the  whole  of  the  city  without  doing  it  the  least  in- 
justice, as  the  whole  is  too  densely  built  for  the  com- 
fort and  health  of  its  thousands  of  inhabitants.  From 
this  cupola  is  presented  a  fine  view  of  many  of  the 
i  crooked  narrow  streets  of  Boston,  whose  winding  course 
present  a  gloomy  appearance,  especially  when  con- 
[trasted  with  the  streets  of  many  other  cities. 
The  hall  in  this  memorable  old  building  is  now  a- 


'^■'■i 


1  !! 


H 


■  1 


!:!■. 


r>>-2s? 


FAN!:rrr,  iiAr.i,  -QfnNf'i'  maiUvI.t. 


bout  80  feet  square  and  28  I'cet  in  hoiji;lit,  willi  hand- 
some  galleries  on  three  sides,  supported  by  a  number 
of  very  beautiful  Doric  columns.     At  the  west  end  of 
the  hall,  the  wall  is   ornamented    with    a    number  ui 
splendid  paintings,  among  which  may  be  seen  the  hiuul- 
some  full-len^^th  likeness  of  Mr.  Faneuil,  the  donor  ol 
the  edifice,  alt^o  Gens.  Washington,  Knox,  Green,  Put- 
nam, and  a  host  of  military  heroes  ;  to  which  may  i)e 
added  Governor  Hancock,  Samuel  Adams,  and  a  splen- 
did bust  of  John  Adams,  all  Columbia's  noble  sons,  who 
lilted  up  their  voices  and  patriotic  arms  for  freedom. 
Here  are  presented  to  view  the  beauteous  forms  of  nvj- 
ny  of  that  brother-band  of  virtuous  patriots,  whoonth* 
side  of  Columbia  toiled  and  bled  for  liberty,  who  bathe(i 
their  noble  forms  in  sweat  and  blood,  till  they  fell  ai 
the  feet  of  their  mourning  and  weeping  country,  aftei 
having  once  dazzled  the  world  with  the  glare  of  their 
exploits.     The  lower  story  of  the  building  contains  tlv 
armories  of  the  different  military  companies  of  th(»  city, 
it  beino-  no  lono-er  used  as  a  market. 

Faneuil  Hall  Market,  (sometimes  known  as  Quincv 
Market,)  erected  in  1827,  is  an  immense  building,  si.\ 
hundred  feet  in  length  and  fifty  feet  in  width,  two  sto- 
ries high,  constructed  of  granite,  at  a  cost  of  $150,000, 
It  is  built  of  land  once  overQown  by  the  tides,  but  suf- 
ficiently reclaimed  from  the  waters  to  answer  for  the 
foundation  of  the  building.  The  lower  story  is  divi- 
ded into  130  stalls,  and  the  second  story  similarly  fur- 
nished. The  building  on  market  days,  presents  a  scene 
of  considerable  interest.  Here  the  stranger  may  per- 
ceive the  eddying   throngs,   gathering   and   whirling 


>u|tl.V 


cusfo^T  i\orpn. 


31J9 


^vattoring  and  hurrying  liither  anil  thither  inthe  activ- 
ity ol  a  market-place.  He  may  become  confused  by 
the  never-ending  turbulence  and  commotion,  with  tht> 
Inmdred's  of  mingled  notes  and'  noif^es  wliich  sro  arising 
from  the  multifarious  throny  hen?  colTected  -.  all  com- 
mingling  in  the  same  hour,  in  the  same  street  and  in 
the  same  scene,  with  their  waiters,  pans,  buckets,  bas- 
kets and  all  manner  of  things,  for  bearing  ofFa  portion 
of  the  great  varie.ty^  of  eatables  wLth  which  the  market 
abounds. 

Th,e  Custom  House,  situated  on  a  low  level  site,  on  ki- 
dia  street,  at  the  foot  of  State  street,  is  built  of  Quincy 
granite,  and  is  truly  a  splendid  structure.  It  is  advan- 
tageously situated  between  Long  and  Central  wharves,, 
and  is  perhaps  one  of  ttie  most  beautiful  and  yibstantial 
buildings  in  our  country.  It  would  be  difTicult  to  find 
terms  of  description,  which  would  convey  an  adequate 
idea  ot  the  effect  produced  by  the  architectural  arrange- 
ments of  this  structure.  The  most  that  I  can  say  ot 
this  elegant  edifice  is,  that  the  new  Custom  House  ot 
Boston  is  imposing  in  its  dimensions,  harmonious  in  its 
proportions,  impressive  in  its  solidity,  and  beautiful  in 
its  strength.  The  following,  ho\yever,  are  the  most 
striking  features  of  this  gr.eat  edifice-:  The  order  of  Its 
architecture  is  the  Grecian  Doric,  which  styl-e  is  pre- 
served througho.ut  as  far  as  is  consistent  with  the  site 
and  the  business  to  which  the  building  is  devoted.  The 
extreme  length  of  the  building  is  140  leet,and  itsdeptU 
omitting  the  porticoes,  is  75  ieet.  The  height  from 
the  basement  floor  to  the  top  of  the  dome,  is  05  feet. 
Externally,  32  fluted   columns  are  presented,  each  5 


•  ■  y  4 


*t\ 


330 


CUsTOM      lIuUSK. 


t^M 


C'    it 


feet  4  inches  in  diameter  and  32  feet  in  hoiglit.  Of 
these,  IG  arc  three-quarter  columns,  and  form  part  ol" 
the  walls  ;  the  space  between  them  being  devoted  to 
windows.  There  are  four  of  these  columns  at  each  end 
of  the  building,  and  two  on  each  side  of  the  porticos. 
Then  at  each  corner  is  a  nearly  full  column,  so  that 
each  end  ol  the  building  presents  the  appearance  of  six 
of  these  fine  columns  :  and  the  sides,  including  the  por- 
ticos, severally  exhibit  twelve  columns.  Four  antea 
or  square  pillars,  stand  at  the  intersection  of  the  porti- 
cos with  the  body  of  the  building. 

The  porticos  are  ten  feet  deep  by  sixty-six  in  width, 
with  six  columns,  each  of  the  same  dimensions  stated 
above.  The  entablatures  are  ornamented  with  triglyph, 
friezes  and  mutule  corniccss  on  a  line  with  the  corni- 
ces of  the  building.  The  porticos  are  reached  by  11 
beautiful  stone  steps  on  the  fronts  and  sides. 

The  roof  of  the  structure  throughout,  and  the  ingla- 
zed  part  of  the  dome  are  covered  with  granite  tiles, 
which  are  visible  from  many  places  in  the  city ;  the 
best  points  of  view  however  at  a  distance,  except  the 
State  House,  are  some  points  of  view  in  State  Street. 

Passing  from  the  principal  external  visible  features 
of  the  building,  we  proceed  to  the  foundation  on  which 
it  rests.  This  consists  of  3000  piles,  covering  an  area 
of  nearly  14000  feet.  On  these  piles  has  been  laid  a 
platform  of  granite,  a  foot  and  a  half  thick,  well  ce- 
mented together,  so  as  to  be  impervious  to  water.  On 
the  east,  south  and  west  margins  of  this  platform,  is 
built  a  ten  foot  shield  wall,  and  within  the  enclosure 
'thus  forraeds  stand  the  wall  proper  of  the  Custom  House. 


CUSTOM    II  o  u  rf  i: . 


331 


The  collar  is  much  crt  up  by  arches  and  \valh?  of 
vast  thickness,  required  to  su  iport  tlio  immense  weij^ht 
ot  the  internal  stone  work  above.  A  number  ofrooms 
however,  12  ieet  high,  are  secured  for  stora*;ej  and  an 
apartment  for  the  furnaces  for  heating  the  whole  oC 
this  large  and  beautiful  establishment. 

The  first  story  open  to  the  light  of  day  is  the  base- 
ment. In  addition  to  the  thick  wall  partitions  separa- 
ting the  rooms,  are  four  granite  columns,  four  feet  in 
diameter,  and  eight  others  two  feet  in  diameter.  These 
t\Telve  columns  are  distributed  througrh  the  rooms  as 
supporters.  In  the  northwest  corner  are  two  rooms 
for  the  night  inspectors  :  one  12  feet  by  22,  and  the 
other  15  feet  by  24-.  In  the  southwest  corner  is  a 
room  10  feet  by  13,  for  the  engine  for  carrying  the 
fans  by  which  the  heated  air  is  to  be  forced  up.  The 
remainder  o^"  the  rooms  in  this  story  are  for  storage. — 
They  are  about  11  feet  high. 

In  the  second  story  of  this  grand  structure,  the  main 
feature  is  the  splendid  entrance  vestibule  or  rotundo, 
60  feet  square,  which  is  formed  by  12  granite  columns, 
4  feet  in  diameter.  From  the  north  and  south  sides 
rise  too  grand  stair-cases,  15  feet  wide  at  the  bottom 
and  7  feet  at  the  top,  terminating  in  smaller  vestibules 
above  which  connect  with  the  various  offices  in  the 
third  story.  On  the  northwest  side  of  the  grand  vesti» 
)ule,  are  the  Assistant  Treasurers'  apartments  which 
ire  three  in  number.  The  two  largest  are  20  feet  by 
22,  and  16  by  25.  The  smaller  is  12  feet  square. — 
This  is  the  vault,  or  Uncle  Sam's  strong  box.  In  the 
northwest  corner  is  the  Measurers  apartments,  one  19 


.1.12 


CUSTOM      H  ()  t;  S  F? . 


Tect  by  29,  and  tlio  olhcr  !)  ('♦•ot  by  12.  Next  to  thi-* 
is  the  Su})<'rintendeiit\s  rouin,  \'l  by  l(i,  and  ailjoiriincr 
that  W(»st,  tlic  njoni  for  tbt;  markers  and  appruvers  ol 
spirits,  lUlt'otby  If).  In  tht*  southwest  corner  are  the 
rooms  of  the  Weighers  and  (Jaui^ery,  one  22  feet  by  33, 
and  the  o,ther  15  feet  b}'  12.  Tn  the  southeast  corner 
are  two  rooms  for  the  Inspectors,  one  40  feet  by  33, 
and  the  other  8  feet  by  12.  In  one  of  these  rooms  are 
4  granite  columns,  11  feet  high.  In  most  of  the  rooms 
in  this  story,  the  ceiling  is  arched. 

The  third  story  is  gained  by  either  of  two  grand  stair- 
cases, already  noticed,  in  which  we  find  the  great  bu- 
siness room,  under  the  direction  of  the  Deputy  CoHec- 
tor.  It  is  62  leet  by  .^)8,  and  lighted  Irom  tlie  dome 
and  by  six  windows  opening  on  the  east  and  west,an(t 
two  end  windows,  opening  on  lighted  passages.  The 
dome  is  supported  by  12  fluted  Corinthian  columns  of 
marble,  30  feet  in  height.  Above  fhem  rises  the  dome 
32  feet  more.  Tl;e  lower  circumference  of  the  dome 
is  195  feet,  or  about  G5  feet  in  diameter.  The  circum- 
feTen.ce  of  the  eye  of  the  dome  is  57  feet,  or  about  19 
feet  in  diameter,  and  is  furnished  with  beautifully  va- 
riegated stained  glass,  which  send  down  a  flood  of  mel- 
lowed light,  which  has  a  graad  and  imposing  eflTect. — 
This  is  said  to  be  the  most  perfect  and  st\perb  hall  in 
the  Corinthian  style,  to  be  found  in  the  United  States. 

Throughout  this  splendid  edifice  the  flooring  is  stone, 
Qf  a  fine  quality.  On  the  third  floor,  in  the  northwest 
coa'ner,  are  the  Collectors  apartments  ;  one  28  feet  by 
20,  and  the  other  10  by  12.  In  the  northeast  corner 
are  the  naval  oflicer.^  apartments;  one  19  by  2t  and  the 


M  U  R  K  U  M  . 


ay.1 


oilier  11  by  '25.  The  ^outhefist  corner  contains  the 
surveyer's  apartments,  1!7  by  19  and  11  by  10.  In  the 
soutliweit  corner  are  the  public  storekeepers,  1!5  feet 
by  20.  In  the  attic  of  this  buiklin<^,  there  is  an  exti;> 
room  for  the  markers,  which  is  11  feet  by  18,  a  room 
for  storing  papers  belonging  to  the  Collector's  oflfice, 
which  is  64  feet  by  20,  and  another  room  of  the  same 
dlimensions,  for  ^be  papers  of  the  Snrvcyer's  office. 

'Hie  Boston  Museum  is  situated  about  halfway  be- 
tween the  State  House  and  Custom    House,  and  occu- 
pies a  fine  site  on  Tremont  street.     It  is  an  immense 
granite  edifice,  covering  Lbout  20,000  feet  ol  land. — 
This  structure  was  erected  in  1846,  forthecx,press  [nir- 
pose,  at  a  cost  of  upwards  of  $200,000.     Xhe  collec- 
tion is  exceedingly  curious  &  valuable.,  coof^prising  near- 
ly half  a  million  objects  of'interest,  embracing  every 
yariety  of  birds,  quadrupeds,  reptiles,  insects,,  shells, 
minerals  and  fossils  ^   and   extensive  gallery  of  costly 
,paintings,  engravings  and  statuary ;  togellier  with  an 
innumerable  variety  of  rare  and  curious  specimens  of 
nature  and  art,  from  all  parts  of  the  world.     The  col- 
lection is  admirably  arranged  for  inspection,  and  with, 
the  extreme  order  and  neatness  everywhere  observed, 
has  risen  to  be  one  of  the  most  prominent  jilaces  of  in- 
terest to  strangers  visiting  the  city.     Connected  wiili 
this  famous  insUtutioii,  in  an  adjoining  large   buildipg, 
is  a  spacious  hall,  where  splendid  performances  are  giv- 
ea  every  evening  and  Wednesday  and  Saturday  after- 
iioons,  free  of  charge  to  visitors  of  the  Museum. 

The  Massachuietts  General  Hospital  is  a  splendid 
p;ranito  ^tructurr,  '.iluated  at  thn  west  end  of  Boston,  oi^ 


..^- 


iS  M 


!     n 


jr.. 


■lis 


384 


H  o  s  r  i  t  A  L  * 


land  formerly  called  Prince's   Pasture.     The   cornef- 
slone  oi  this  elegant  edifice  was  laid  on  the  4th  of  Ju- 
ly, 1818,  in  the  presence  of  many  persons  of  dignity  in 
public  life,  and  a  numerous  assemblage  of  citizens.     It 
is  said  the  civil,  religious  and  masonic  services  were 
performed  with  such  impressive  pomp,  as  rendered  the 
whole  scene  truly  solemn  and  interesting.     This  famous 
building  was  so  far  completed  on  the  first  ol  Septem- 
ber, 1821,  as  to  be  in  a  fit  condition  to  receive  patients* 
The  main  building  with  its  right  wing  was  finished  in 
1821 ;  the  left  wmg  was  only  erected  within  the  past 
year.     This  edifice  has  been  pronounced  the  finest  buil- 
ding in  the  old  Bay  State.     It  stands  on  a  small  emi- 
nence, open  to  the  south,  east  and  west.     The  length 
of  the  building  is  168  feet  and  its  greatest  breadth  is  54 
feetj  having  a  portico  of  eight  Ionic  columns  in  front. 
The  building  is  constructed  of  Chelmsford  granite,  the 
columns  and  their  capitals  bemg  of  the  same   material. 
In  the  centre  of  the  two  principal  stories  are  the  rooms 
of  the  officers  of  the  institution.     Above  these  rooms  is 
the  operating  theatre,  which  is  very  handsome  place, 
lighted  from  the  dome.     The  wings  of  this  edifice  are 
divided  into  wards  and  sick  rooms.     The  staircase  and 
floorings  of  the  entries  are  of  stone,  well  polished.  The 
whole  of  this  splendid  structure  is  supplied  with  heathy 
air-flues  from  furnaces,  and  with  water  by  pipes  and  a 
forcing- pump.     From  every  part  of  this  building  can  be 
seen  the  beautiful  hills  which  surround  Boston.     The 
grounds  belonging  to  this  building  have  been  greatly 
improved,  by  the  planting  of  ornamental  trees  &  shrubs, 
and  the  extension  of  the  gravel  walks,  for  those  patients 


ti'i'M 


■  H,j.'.;i:t'. 


I^UBLIC    BUILDINGS. 


335 


r;/*;: 


whose  health  will  admit  of  exercise  in  the  open  air.^ 
These  beautiful  grounds  though  small,  (being  only  about 
4  acres,)  make  truly  a  handsome  appearance.  The 
grounds  on  the  southwest  arc  washed  by  the  waters  of 
the  bay. 

The  Court-House,  situated  in  rear  of  the  Boston  Mu- 
seum, is  a  large  and  splendid  edifice,  constructed  of 
granite.  It  is  176  feet  in  length,  54"  in  width  and  57 
in  height.  This  is  the  most  beautiful  building  of  the 
kind  I  ever  saw,  and  so  capacious,  that  at  times  eight 
Courts  are  all  in  session  without  interfering  with  each 
other. 

The  Old  State  House,  situated  at  the  head  of  State 
street,  built  in  the  year  1748,  is  replete  with  revolu- 
tionary reminiscences.  This  old  building  was  long  the 
place  where  the  General  Court  of  the  province  of  Mas- 
sachusetts \vas  holdcn,  until  the  erection  and  dedica- 
tion of  the  State  House  on  Beacon  Hill,  already  descri- 
bed. The  Houses  of  Industry,  Correction  and  RefoN 
raation,  situated  in  South  Boston,  are  admirably  con- 
ducted institutions,  a  short  sketch  of  which  was  given 
in  the  notes  taken  from  the  Cupola,  at  the  South  win- 
dow. The  Boston  Athenceum,  established  in  1806,  has 
a  library  of  over  40,000  volumes,  a  collection  of  valua- 
ble paintings,  busts,  &c.  There  is  a  large  and  splen- 
did grate  structure  ih  process  of  erection  on  Beacon 
street,  which  is  intended  for  this  Athenceum. 

The  Institution  for  the  Blind,  at  South  Boston,  estab- 
lished in  1832,  is  a  celebrated  charity.  The  Medical 
branch  of  Harvard  University,  founded  in  1782,  is  a 
large  and  splendid  brick  building  at  the  foot  of  Bridge 


jpr 


■lv'r;.U 


IM 


s-^l. 


runHC    BUlLDiNGS^iRHIDGfirs. 


street,  winch  are  respectively  institutions  richly  worth 
a  visit.  The  city  contains  an  Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary  . 
also  25  banking  institutions,  with  large  and  splendid 
buildings  for  the  purpose.  There  are  here  25  insurance 
companies,  30  printing  establishments,  57  primary 
ijcboolg,  one  African  school  lor  black*,  and  numerou;. 
private  schools  for  children  of  both  sexes,  and  no  less 
than  106  IHejary  and  charitable  societies,  all  in  a  flour- 
ishing conTlition. 

Boston  contains  76  large  and  handsome  churcJies,  ^- 
mong  which  may  be  named  Trinity  church,  an  elegant 
edifice,  built  of  granite  in  tlft)  Gothic  style,  situated  at 
the  corner  of  Summer  and  Havy  ley  Greets.  It  contains 
a  very  large  and  splendid  fine  toned  organ. 

St.  Paul's  church,  consecrated  in  1820,  built  pf  gran- 
ite  in  the  Ionic  style,  112  leet  in  length  and  72  feet  in 
width,  situated  on  Tremont  street,  near  the  Masonic 
Temple,  is  a  very  beautiful  edifice. 

Park  Street  church,  situated  on  Park  street,  at  the 
northeast  end  of  the  Boston  Common,  was  consecrated 
in  1810.     It  is  a  very  large  granite  structure,  and  is 

4 

one  of  the  most  lofty  and  elegant  churches  in  New  En^- 
land;  the  steeple  is  218  feet  high. 

Boston  is  connected  with  Charleston  by  meanii  o( 
Charles  river  bridge,  opened  in  17SG.  It  is  Jl"503  feet 
Ion-,  42  feet  wide  and  cost  originally  $50,000:  alio 
by  Warren  bridge,  opened  in  1828.  It  is  1390  feet 
long  and  11  feet  wide.  The  city  is  connected  with 
Caml^iiidge  by  West  Boston  bridge,  opened  in  171)3,  and 
io  2758  feet  long.  Tlie  famous  causeway  constructed 
nf  >,toin<  '.\]\i\  'Milh.  "ts  !]  It!  {Vol  lonp:  •.\n<\  rn^,t  $;7fi,or»T 


WHARVES 


337 


South  Boston  bridge,  leading  from  Boston  week  to  South 
Boston,  was  opened  in  1805,  and  is  1550  feet  long,  40 
feet  wide  and  cost  $50,000.  Canal  Bridge,  leading  to 
Lechmere's  Point,  opened  in  1809,  is  2796  feet  long 
and  40  leetwide. — An  arm  extends  to  Prison  Point  in 
Charleston,  which  is  1820  feet  long  and  35  feet  wide. 
The  Western  Avenue  from  Beacon  street  to  Sewell's 
Point,  in  Brookline,  was  opened  in  1821,  is  one  mile 
and  a  half  long  and  100  teet  wide.  This  avenue  forms 
a  dam  across  Charles  river  Bay,  and  cost  $700,000. — 
Boston  Free  Bridge  from  Sea  street  to  South  Boston, 
opened  in  1828,  is  500  feet  long  and  38  feet  wide. — 
There  are  also  five  handsome  railroad  bridges  on  which 
the  cars  pass  over  the  waters  into  the  city. 

The  Wharves  of  "^t  ^ton  exceed  those  of  any  other 
city  in  the  Union  ■  -  laps,  in  convenience  and  magni- 
tude. There  are  wharves  around  about  half  the  main 
city,  from  the  bridge  of  the  old  Colony  railroad  at  the 
south,  to  the  bridge  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  railroad 
at  the  north.  The  whole  of  the  wharves  are  built  as 
close  to  each  other,  as  they  could  conveniently  be  made; 
they  somewhat  resemble  the  cogs  of  a  wheel,  when 
viewed  from  some  eminence  in  the  city. 

Long  wharf,  at  the  foot  of  State  street,  is  1800  leet 
long  and  200  feet  wide,  and  has  on  it  a  row  of  ware- 
houses 76  in  number.  Central  wharf,  built  in  1816, 
is  1380  feet  in  length  and  150  feet  in  width ;  over  the 
centre  is  a  large  observatory,  trom  which  high  tower 
the  stranger  can  look  down  on  a  forest  of  ship  masts, 
crowded  together  in  the  wharves  and  bay,  which  have 

truly  a  very  imposing  eilVct.     On  this  wharf  arc  54 
15 


'  .i% 


\^l 


33^ 


XIOStON    COMMOK. 


m 


wareliouses,  four  stories  high.  Commercial  wharf,  1,- 
100  feel  long  and  160  feet  wide,  contains  34  large 
granite  warehouses. 

The  Boston  Common,  a  piece  of  ground  in  the  form 
of  a  cone,  contains  55  acres,  which  is  enclosed  with  a 
substantial  iron  fence,  erected  on  stone  cappings.  Thu 
height  of  the  fence  is  about  eight  feet,  beautifully  paint- 
ed, and  cost  the  sum  of  $100,000.  The  ground  is  laid 
out  with  gravelled  walks,  bordered  with  ornamental 
trees  of  the  choicest  species.  A  more  delightful  spot 
in  summer,  is  not  to  be  found  in  any  city  of  its  size  in 
the  United  States. 

This  famous  Common  has  been  valued  by  the  proper 
authority  of  the  city,  at  four  doUara  for  every  square 
foot  of  land  enclosed  by  the  iron  fence,  which  would 
be  the  sum  of  $9,583,200  for  55  acres  of  land,  which 
in  many  other  places  perhaps  would  be  considered  an 
extravagant  valuation.     But  this  spot  of  ground  is  not 
only  prized  by  the  authorities  of  the  city,  but  it  is  val- 
ued by  every  class  of  citizens  as  being  the  only  place  in 
the  city  to  which  they  can  resort  for  fresh  air  and  en- 
joyment.    To  the  many  thousands  of  inhabitants  of 
this  densely  built  city,   how  pleasant  and  significant  is 
that  name,  the  Common  j  not  the  Park  nor  the  Mall, 
but  simply  the  Boston  Common ;  a  place  owned  in 
common  by  all  the  citizens  of  Boston,  and  in  which 
every  citizen  has  a  common  right  and  interest :  a  place 
where  the  rich  and  poor  may  meet  together  and  enjoy 
the  common  bounties  of  heaven, — fresh  air,  green  grass 
and  waving  trees  :  a  place  set  apart  for  the  common 
good  and  happiness  of  the  citizens  of  Boston. 


How  1 
io  this  re 
the  trave 
and  confi 
Walls,  in 
he  arrivei 
and  witne 
piece  of  c( 
the  memo 
sons  on  th 
gift  of  this 
It  is  not 
and  heahh 
dreds  and  i 
ing  been  pi 
their  weari 
is  hoped  in^ 
long  the  wi 
The  grea 
adjoining  it 
House,  ther 
ing  the  sout 
^ery,  both  o 
ments.     Ke 
Pond,  whicl 
tifully  wall( 
pond  the  bo; 
ged,  so  that  j 
^vhile  the  bo 
lifted  hands, 
tlieir  respect 


BO=>TOJ>   COMMON — rt)Nr). 


335 


How  rich  a  boon  is  even  this  one  breathing  place, 
to  this  reriowed  and  densely  built  old  city.  And  even 
the  traveller  from  the  country,  after  being  housed  up 
and  confined  for  only  three  or  four  days  between  brick 
walls,  in  passing  the  narrow  streets  of  the  city,  when 
he  arrives  at  the  Common,  and  strolls  along  its  walks 
and  witnesses  the  amount  of  happiness,  which  this  one 
piece  of  common  ground  can  afford,  he  cannot  but  bless 
the  memory  of  those  to  whom  he,  as  well  as  those  per* 
sons  on  the  Common  with  him  are  indebted,  for  the 
gift  of  this  breathing  ground,  the  Boston  Common. 

It  is  not  boys  and  girls  alone  that  are  mad6  happier 
and  healthier  by  this  sweet  Common.  There  are  huti* 
dreds  and  thousands  of  men  and  women  too,  who  hav- 
ing been  pent  up  all  day  between  brick  walls,  refresh 
their  wear}'  bodies,  invigorate  their  jaded  minds,  and  K 
is  hoped  improve  their  hearts,  by  an  evening's  stroll  a- 
long  the  walks  of  this  famous  Common. 

The  greatest  extent  of  this  Common  is  east  and  west ; 
adjoining  its  eastern  extremity,  and  near  the  State 
House,  there  is  a  very  beautiful  Cemetery  ;  and  adjoin- 
ing the  southern  fence  there  is  a  very  splendid  Ceme- 
tery, both  of  which  contain  beautiful  tombs  and  moniH 
ments.  Near  the  centre  of  the  Common  there  is  a 
Pond,  which  in  form  resembles  an  ellipsis.  It  is  beau- 
tifully walled  up  around  the  edge  with  stvone.  In  this 
pond  the  boys  have  a  nqmber  of  little  ships  well  rig- 
ged, so  that  the  breeze  blows  them  from  bank  to  bank, 
while  the  boys  stand  in  crowds  on  the  bank  with  up- 
lifted hands,  shouting  on  the  departure  and  approach  of 
their  respective  little  ships. 


■        ■  ,  ( 

:      ■  U 

11 


1 


uo 


noSTON  COMMON — ELM  TilEL'. 


A  little  to  the  south  of  the  Pond  stands  the  great  Ehri 
Tree,  planted  by  an  ancestor  of  Governor  Hancock's 
lamily  oy  the  name  of  Henchman.  Its  age  can  never 
be  ascertained,  as  the  trunk  is  hollow,  so  that  boys  ac- 
tually went  in  and  out  at  pleasure  according  to  tradi- 
tion, within  fifty  or  sixty  years  ;  the  concentric  circles 
marking  its  growth  are  therefore  obliterated.  It  is  a- 
bout  65  feet  high,  the  extent  of  its  branches  is  about  90 
feet,  and  Its  girth  a  little  above  the  ground  nearly  22 
feet.  All  its  large  branches  are  well  braced  with  rods 
of  iron,  so  as  to  prevent  the  wind  from  splitting  them 
b£F.  The  tree  is  enclosed  by  a  vety  handsome  fence, 
constructed  in  a  circular  form  and  about  seven  feet  in 
height,  so  that  persons  cannot  even  have  the  pleasure 
of  touching  this  famous  old  tree.  In  a  western  direc- 
tion fVom  this  Common,  there  are  no  buildings  to  ob- 
struct the  view  for  some  distance,  as  in  that  direction 
there  is  a  large  open  marsh. 


CHAPTER    XXX  I. 

*iDelebralionofthe4th  of  July— Order  of  the  Procession— The 
afterhoon— Colours— National  salute— Sky ■  rockets— Position 
and  appearance  of  the  apparatuses  connected  with  the  Fire- 
works  Commencement  of  the  chief  part  of  the  Fire-worka— 

Spouting  fire— Circle  of  Stars— Statues,  Dome,  American 
Eagle  and  Banners— Sugar  Refinery- A  portion  of  the  vari- 
ous apparatuses  and  processes  connected  with  the  refining  cs- 
Vablisliment. 

On  the  Boston  Common^  I  witnessed  the  celebration 
of  the  4th  ot  July,  where  there  wcrc  collected  togetli- 


12:11115,  at  a 


W\'ih\- 


rounrii  or   julv. 


3H 


or  an  immcnsp  crowd  of"  persons,  during  the  day  and 
evening.  The  celebration  was  opened  by  a  National 
salute  of  thirty  guns,  on  the  morning  of  the  4th  at  sun- 
rise. At  8  o'clock,  a  procession  of  hundreds  and  thous- 
ands of  persons  began  to  move  from  Faneuil  Hall,  at 
the  head  of  which  was  a  very  splendid  regiment  of  sol- 
diers, all  uniformed  in  a  very  costly  and  handsome 
style;  they  were  followed  by  the  Mayor  and  principal 
authorities  of  the  city  ;  in  rear  of  them  the  different  be- 
nevolent societies  of  the  city  :  in  rear  of  which  follow- 
ed the  citizens.  At  9  o'clock,  a  large  portion  of  the 
procession  entered  the  Common,  where  the  military 
companies  made  a  very  handsome  display  for  about  two 
hours,  after  which  there  were  a  number  of  very  elo» 
quent  Orations  delivered. 

At  1  o'clock,  the  procession  again  moved  toward 
Faneuil  Hall  and  dispersed.  During  the  afternoon  the 
military  companies  marched  through  the  principal 
streets  of  the  city,  accompanied  by  a  number  of  very 
splendid  bands  of  music,  while  scores  of  colors  were 
suspended  over  the  streets  by  cords,  from  window  to 
window,  proudly  waving  their  lovely  stripes  over  the 
heads  of  the  soldiers,  as  they  marched  through  the  streets 
of  the  Granite  city,  to  commemorate  the  great  deed  of 
Columbia's  first  and  greatest  sons.  At  precisely  30  min- 
utes before  sunset,  commenced  a  national  salute  of  30 
guns,  at  an  entraval  of  one  minute  between  the  report 
of  each.  At  the  discharge  of  the  Massachusetts  and 
Virginia  guns,  there  was  given  such  a  tremendous  shout 
for  each,  that  it  appeared  to  almost  rock  the  peninsula 
on  which  Boston  is  situated  ;.  truly  the  most  deafening 


U^, 


I  ' 


'. 


■J  m  I J 


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A 


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1 

lii 

1 

ii 

3i.2 


F  1  R  Ii  -  \V  O  R  K  S 


shout  1  ever  heard  for  the  old  Dominion,  in  uU  my  lU'at. 
At  sunset,  alter  the  discharge  of  the  last  gun  of  the  na- 
tional salute,  while  the  hollow  thunder  of  its  report 
could  still  be  heard  in  the  distance,  commenced  the  fi- 
ring of  slvy-rockets,  at  intervals  of  one  minute  between 
each  discharge,  which  continued  till  9  o'clock.  The 
rockets  would  burst  in  the  air,  and  balls  of  fire  would 
diverge  as  from  a  common  centre,  and  tending  their 
course  downwards,  followed  by  a  stream  of  fire  resem- 
bling a  comet,  each  ball  burning  with  a  brilliancy  that 
dazzled  the  eye  ;  every  ball  being  tinged  with  a  differ- 
ent color  from  another,  and  so  directed  as  to  descend 
within  the  Common. 

At  9  o'clock  commenced  the  showing  of  the  princi- 
pal part  of  the  fire-works,  which  is  said  to  be  the  great- 
est ever  exhibited  in  America  ;  even  a  tolerable  descrip- 
tion of  which  it  is  not  in  my  power  to  give.  A  part 
of  the  apparatus  connected  therewith  was  situated  on 
the  most  prominent  eminence  in  the  Common,  and  be- 
fore they  were  set  on  fire,  the  largest  had  the  appear- 
ance of  consisting  of  timbers  or  other  materials  framed 
together:  the  lower  frame  of  an  oblong  form,  about  80 
feet  long  and  40  feet  high  ;  on  the  top  of  this  frame 
was  a  semicircle,  the  profile  of  which  resembled  the 
dome  of  a  building  ;  this  dome  or  semicircle  was  crown- 
ed by  the  American  Eagle  with  expanded  wings,  which 
were  about  15  feet  from  wing  to  wing. 

The  dome  contained  thirteen  large  stars  within  its 
circumference,  each  being  about  four  feet  in  diameter. 
The  other  spaces  in  the  semicircle  were  filled  up  with 
banners  and  other  appropriate  devices.     Just  below 


FIRE-WORK*. 


343 


the  semicircle  were  the  words  in  very  large  letters,  a- 
bout  three  leet  in  length,  "177G,  The  dawn  of  the  Lib- 
erties of  the  world,^*  These  words  extended  along  the 
whole  length  of  the  work  ;  immediately  under  the  cen- 
tre of  those  words  was  placed  a  statue  of  Justice,  with 
the  right  hand  extended  upward,  holding  the  scale  to- 
ward the  letters  ;  immediately  under  the  figures  177C, 
was  placed  a  statue  of  Washington,  and  immediataly 
under  the  word  "world"  was  placed  a  statue  of  Lafay- 
ette ;  the  spaces  between  were  filled  up  with  stars  and 
stripes  and  other  appropriate  emblems.  This  apparat- 
us, from  the  ground  to  the  beak  of  the  eagle,  was  about 
85  feet  in  height.  In  front  of  this  on  the  brow  of  the 
eminence,  were  13  very  large  stars,  each  supported  by 
a  post  about  20  feet  high,  placed  in  a  circular  form, 
each  star  about  8  feet  in  diameter.  In  the  centre  of 
this  circle  of  stars  was  placed  a  large  bee-hive  on  a 
pillar ;  the  hive  revolved,  and  resembled  in  form  and 
size,  a  small  haystack,  around  which  were  placed  the 
apparatus  for  the  spouting,  spinning  and  reeling  of  fire. 
On  the  top  of  the  little  hill  or  eminence,  and  immedi- 
ately in  rear  of  the  whole  of  those  apparatuses,  was  the 
battery,  from  which  proceeded  the  sky-rockets  already 
briefly  sketched.  The  whole  of  those  emblems  were 
so  constructed  and  of  such  material,  that  they  would 
take  fire  in  succession  and  burn  for  about  four  minutes 
each,  with  such  brilliancy  as  to  dazzle  the  e3^e  of  the 
beholder.  At  9  o'clock,  this  part  of  the  exhibition 
commenced,  by  the  firing  of  comets  or  balls  of  fire,  at 
an  elevation  of  about  15  feet  above  the  lieads  of  the 
crowd,  w^hich  comets  would  cross  each  other  in  every 


y         ■■    a    .1 


I 


■if 


3U 


F  I  R  K  -  W  0  II  K  Jl  , 


Hi 


U: 


direction,  and  so  soon  as  they  arrived  at  the  edge  ol 
the  Common,  they  would  turn  at  angles  of  about  45 
degrees,  at  which  time  a  report  could  be  heard  as  loud 
as  the  report  of  a  musket  when  discharged,  in  which 
way  they  would  pass  and  repass  over  the  heads  of  the 
crowd,  from  two  to  three  times,  in  doing  which,  no 
other  noise  could  be  heard  than  that  caused  by  the  re- 
sistance of  the  air. 

!Hext  came  the  spouting,  spinning  and  reeling  of  fire, 
the  whole  of  which  was  grand  in  the  extreme,  and  had 
more  the  appearance  of  being  under  the  direction  ol  a 
supreme  artificer,  than  being  conducted  by  man.  When 
this  with  many  other  things  of  a  similar  kind  had  pas- 
sed off,  the  hive  was  fired  by  a  match  ;  it  revolved, 
burning  with  all  the  primary  colors,  which  presented 
the  most  gaudy  appearance,  for  being  composed  of  fire, 
that  was  ever  witnessed  in.  iJoston ;  while  the  hive  was 
surrounded  by  swarms  ol  bees  composed  of  fire. 

Next  the  circle  of  stars  took  fire  in  succession,  each 
one  burning  four  or  five  minutes,  with  all  the  primary 
colors,  in  the  most  grand  and  brilliant  style,  while  out 
of  every  star  would  proceed  rockets  or  fire  balls,  from 
almost  every  point  of  the  star,  which  were  propelled 
to  a  considerable  distance  in  the  air,  where  they  would 
explode,  and  streams  of  fire  descend  in  awful  grandeur 
toward  the  earth. — And  last  of  all,  came  the  large  part 
viz :  the  statues,  dome  and  American  eagle,  which 
crowned  the  whole  in  beauty  and  grandeur;  which, 
with  its  splendid  statues,  letters,  stars  and  stripes,  w  ith 
the  American  eagle  with  expanded  wings,  crowning 
the  whole.     This  apparatus,  with  all  its  beautiful  or- 


FlRE-WoftKS. 


34ri 


naments,  statues  and  emblems,  burnorl  for  ri<rht  or  ton 
minutes,  with  the  various  primary  colors,  with  such  a 
brilliancy  as  to  dazzle  the  eye  of  the  beholder;  the 
same  as  it  would  if  gazing  upon  the  effulgent  face  ot 
the  meredian  sun;  while  rockets  would  ascend  from  al- 
most every  point  ol  the  apparatus,  and  after  being  pro- 
pelled far  in  the  air,  would  explode,  and  streams  of  fire 
diverge  from  their  respective  centres,  and  bend  their 
way  downward  to  the  gazing  thousands,  who  with  their 
thrilling  shouts  and  uplifted  hands,  aided  in  commemo- 
rating the  great  deed  of  Columbia's  sterling  sons.  The 
whole  was  perhaps  the  grandest  artificial  display  ever 
witnessed  in  America.  The  exhibitions  of  the  day 
and  night  were  entertaining  and  instructive  through- 
out, rendered  more  thrilling  as  they  were  exhibited  in 
the  very  "Cradle  of  Liberty." 

Thus  ended  the  celebration  of  the  ^th  of  July.  The 
features  of  a  few  of  the  most  prominent  emblems,  and 
the  position  they  occupied,  have  been  sketched,  leav- 
ing many  others  unnoticed,  which  were  used  on  the 
occasion,  and  the  causes  and  effects  therewith  conect- 
ed.  What  was  the  cause  of  this  or  the  cause  of  that,  I 
leave  for  some  scientific  individual  to  give,  as  science 
had  complete  command  of  the  whole.  It  yet  remains 
for  me  and  thousands  of  others  who  witnessed  the  same, 
to  learn  the  causes  and  effects  therewith  connected  in 
every  particular ;  to  know  how  those  emblems  couW 
spout  fire  far  into  the  air,  and  Jreel  it  as  yarn  ;  throw 
rockets  toward  the  heavens,  and  the  whole  burn  with 

such  bright  effulgence  as  to  dazzle  the  eye,  and  yet  its 
chief  features  not  be  consumed  or  destroyed. 


11 


i 

:1I 


V  .' 


UG 


S  U  G  All      u  i:  V  i  M  L  It  V 


'i 


;.l 


The  Sugiii  R<'iini  ry,  situated  in  East  lioston,  is  a  vi* 
ry  largo  brick  building,  and  is  a  very  extensive  con- 
cern, employing  about  one  hundred  men.  It  is  very 
lofty,  consists  of  an  unusual  number  of  floors  or  stories, 
and  lighted  by  over  one  hundred  windows,  most  of  them 
small,  and  at  such  a  height  as  to  have  aeven  floors  be- 
tween them  and  the  ground.  A  visit  to  this  refinery, 
and  a  day  spent  in  the  establishment,  would  be  inter- 
esting to  any  traveller  who  had  never  visited  a  like 
concern.  The  hogsheads  of  sugar  are  brought  on  drays, 
from  the  docks  to  the  front  ofUhe  building,  and  are 
hauled  up  by  a  crane  and  drawn  in  at  an  open  door,  to 
a  large  square  room.  This  is  the  first  part  of  the  refi- 
nery which  I  visited,  and  a  busy  scene  it  presented. — 
Here  was  a  hogshead  of  sugar  suspended  irom  the  crane, 
there  was  another  hogshead  deposited  on  a  low  iron  car- 
riage Justin  from  the  door,  andnear  it  was  a  third  lying 
weighed ;  a  little  farther  on  was  a  man  knocking  out 
the  head  of  a  hogshead,  and  near  him  a  party  emptying 
the  contents  of  another  already  opened,  while  others 
were  removing  empty  hogsheads. 

The  sugar  when  about  to  be  operated  on,  is  shovel- 
led into  large  circular  vessels,  called  by  the  refiners, 
blow-uj)  cisterns ;  so  called  from  the  mode  in  which 
the  steam  is  admitted  to  the  contents  of  the  vessels. — 
The  cisterns  are  six  oi  ^even  feet  in  diameter  and  a- 
bout  five  feet  in  height ;  and  the  purpose  for  which  they 
are  employed  is  to  dissolve  the  sugar,  preparatory  to 
the  removal  of  earthy  and  other  impurities,  with  which 
sugar  is  well  known  to  be  contaminated  j  in  addition 
to  which,  there  are  two  other  substances  which  require 


B' 


SUGAR    Jt  r  F  I  N  r  a  V  . 


ni7 


Jo  he  removt»d  from  tins  suf^ar,  beluro  tin-  Mhile  crys- 
talline state  can  be  obtained,  and  thoy  are  coloring  mat- 
ter and  molasses. 

Three  distinct  processes  are  resorted  to  in  order  to 
remove  these  substances.  To  remove  the  impurities  is 
the  first  object.  The  su^nr  as  before  stated  is  thrown 
mto  the  blo\v-np  cistern,  and  water  is  admitted  to  it 
from  a  cistern  at  the  top  of  the  edifice,  which  supplies 
every  part  of  this  vast  estalilishment.  Into  the  cistern 
containing  the  sugar  and  water,  there  is  added  a  small 
quantity  of  li mo- water,  which  is  brought  fron  Ia7,!;e 
vessels  in  the  building,  where  the  lime  is  dissolved  in 
water,  and  stirred  till  a  milky  fluid  is  i)roducod,  from 
which  it  is  conveyed  in  small  quantities  to  the  cistern 
containing  the  sugar.  From  an  engine,  steam  is  forc- 
ed into  the  solution,  by  which  the  latter  becomes  heat 
ed  in  a  short  space  of  time,  aided  by  constant  stirring. 

The  temperature  of  the  solution  is  not  greater  than 
that  of  boiling  water.  The  saccharine  solution,  which 
is  called  in  the  language  of  refinery,  liquor,  is  not  skim 
med  at  all ;  but  at  a  certain  stage  in  the  operation,  it  is 
allowed  to  flow  from  the  blow-up  cistern  into  a  range 
of  filtering  vessels  in  a  room  beneath,  into  which  filters 
it  enters  as  a  thick,  opaque,  blackish  liquid.  "The  ar- 
rangement of  these  filters  is  exceedingly  ingcuious.-^- 
They  consist  of  several  cast-iron  vessels,  each  contain- 
inof  a  large  number  of  cloth  tubes  attach  .d  to  short  me- 
tallic  tubes,  which  are  screwed  in  circular  holes  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  vessels,  and  hanging  vertically  down- 
ward. Each  of  these  tubes  contain  a  lar2;e  bag,  made 
oi  a  close  kind  of  cotton  cloth,  and  coiled  up  so  as  t^ 


m 


4^ 
%  *  I' 


m^r-.^'"::. 


348 


S  i;  {;  A  R     II  L*  r  I  N  E  R  Y 


ui 


make  a  compact  mass  ol  cloth.  The  liquor  flows  from 
the  blow-up  cisterns  into  a  shallow  vessel  to  which  the 
tubes  are  attached,  and  thence  through  the  bags  con- 
tained in  the  tubes.  'I'here  is  no  outlet  for  the  liquid 
except  through  the  meshes  of  the  cloth,  and  as  the 
cloth  forming  the  bags  is  doubled  and  redoubled  in  its 
tube,  the  liquid  finds  its  way  through  between  the  plies 
and  folds  of  the  cloth,  and  finally  exudes  in  a  transpa- 
rent state.  The  whole  of  the  impurities,  except  a  lit- 
tle coloring  matter,  are  retained  by  the  bags  and  tubes, 
while  the  saccharine  liquor  passes  through.  After  the 
bags  become  clogged,  the  tubes  to  which  they  are  at- 
tached are  unscrewed  and  removed  to  a  washing-yard, 
where  the  impurities  are  removed,  and  the  bags  and 
tubes  thoroughly  cleansed  by  washing.  The  saccha- 
rine matter  contained  in  the  impurities,  is  afterwards 
extracted  for  other  pu poses  by  various  processes. 

The  next  point  in  our  visit  was  the  rooms  in  which 
the  process  of  decoloration  is  carried  on.  All  the  li- 
quor as  it  leaves  the  filters  flows  through  pipes  into  o- 
ther  parts  of  the  building,  occupied  by  charcoal  cisterns, 
each  of  which  is  a  square  vessel  about  four  feet  high, 
and  provided  with  a  double  bottom,  the  upper  one  be- 
ing perforated  with  small  holes.  On  this  perforated 
bottom  a  piece  of  cloth  is  laid,  on  the  cloth  a  layer  of 
powdered  animal  charcoal  or  boneblack,  between  two 
and  three  feet  thick. 

The  saccharine  liquor  flows  on  the  surface  of  this 
charcoal  bed,  through  which  it  slowly  finds  its  way  per- 
colating to  the  bottom,  then  through  the  meshes  ot  the 
cloth  and  perforated  bottom,  into  the  vacant  space  be- 


SUGAR      11  E  ri  N  E  R  i'  . 


349 


neatli.  The  effect  of  this  filtration  is  truly  very  stri- 
king, for  the  liquor,  which  though  transparent,  is  of  a 
reddish  color  when  it  flows  into  these  cisterns  of  char- 
coal, leaves  them  in  a  state  of  colorless  transparency, 
almost  equal  to  that  of  water.  This  is  the  way  the  col- 
oring matter  is  removed  from  brown  sugar,  and  is  the 
second  process  in  refining  sugar  in  such  establishments. 

Near  the  room  which  contains  these  cisterns  of  char- 
coal, is  an  apartment  called  retort-house,  supplied  with 
furnaces,  retorts  and  various  subsidiary  arrangements ; 
the  whole  of  which  curious  apparatus,  whose  use  might 
to  a  stranger  appear  rather  inexplicable,  in  a  sugar  re- 
finery exemplify  one  of  the  most  curious  and  valuable 
properties  in  the  charcoal  employed.  When  the  pro- 
cess of  decoloring  the  sugar  has  rendered  the  charcoal 
impure,  water  is  poured  through  the  mass  in  the  cis- 
terns, until  all  the  soluble  saccharine  part  of  the  impu- 
rities are  removed,  after  which  the  charcoal  is  removed 
from  the  square  cisterns,  carried  to  the  retort  apartment 
and  put  into  iron  retorts.  The  process  is  so  conducted 
that  the  charcoal  leaves  the  retorts  in  a  state  as  fit  for 
use  as  when  first  made ;  all  the  impurities  having  been 
burnt  away  without  any  deterioration  in  the  coloring 
qualities  of  the  charcoal.  Thus  the  same  portions  of 
charcoal  may  be  used  over  and  over  again. 

The  next  place  of  interest  to  the  stranger,  is  the  a- 
partment  where  the  boiling  is  carried  on,  which  is  the 
most  important  of  all;  and  a  description  of  all  the  in- 
ventions and  contrivances  which  have  been  brought  to 
bear  on  this  process,  would  not  only  be  tedious  in  the 
extreme,  but  would  involve  scientific  details  which  I 


ja^ 


350 


SUGAR      REFINERY. 


i ' 


perhaps  am  not  capable  of  giving.  A  very  large  num- 
ber of  pipes  and  tubes  of  various  sizes,  traverse  a  suo-ar 
refinery  in  every  direction.  Some  convey  water  to  the 
reservoir  on  the  top  oi  the  building ;  others  reconve^ 
it  to  cisterns  and  pans  in  different  parts  of  the  refinery  ; 
some  conduct  steam  from  boilers  to  the  blow-up  cis- 
terns, to  the  pans,  to  the  heaters,  to  the  ovens  or  sto- 
ving-rooms,  and  to  other  parts ;  while  another  series 
convey  the  sugar  and  syrup  from  vessel  to  vessel,  in 
different  stages  of  their  progress. 

The  process  of  boiling  the  liquid  sugar  is  briefly  this : 
The  liquid  is  collected  in  a  cistern  several  feet  below 
the  pans,  which  are  of  a  circular  form,  the  top  and  bot- 
tom being  oval,  somewhat  resembling  the  form  of  two 
bowls  or  basins  of  equal  size  when  placed  together. — 
These  pans  are  supported  by  a  frame  or  carriage  simi- 
lar to  the  carriage  of  an  artificial  globe.  In  the  bot- 
tom of  each  pan  there  is  a  pipe  which  communicates 
with  the  cistern  below,  which  contains  the  syrup  or  li- 
quid sugar.  The  air  is  withdrawn  from  within  each 
pan  by  means  of  an  air-pump,  the  liquid  sugar  ascends 
the  pipe  into  the  vacuum  by  atmospheric  pressure  from 
without,  on  the  same  principle  as  the  water  ascends  in 
a  common  pump.  Steam  is  then  admitted  to  a  vacant 
space  below  the  sugar  in  the  pan,  and  through  pipes 
traversing  the  interior  ;  and  by  these  means  the  sugar 
is  brought  to  a  boiling  state,  while  comparatively  at  a 
low  temperature,  on  account  of  the  almost  perfect  vac- 
uum existing  above  the  surface  of  the  liquor  in  the  pan. 
As  the  evaporation  proceeds,  the  vapor  flows  through 
a  large  iron  pipp  into  an  oppn  court,  where  a  cistern 


\m\ 


SUGAR     REFINERY. 


351 


of  cold  water  condenses  it  as  fast  as  formed.  The  su- 
gar by  this  evaporation,  thickens  and  becomes  partially 
grandulated ;  and  to  ascertain  how  far  this  process  has 
extended,  a  most  ingenious  instrument  called  a  proof- 
rod,  is  used,  by  which  a  small  quantity  of  suf;?r  may  be 
taken  without  disturbing;  the  vacuum  in  the  •;)an.  A 
hollow  tube  is  fixed  in  the  pan,  with  the  outer  end  ex- 
posed to  the  atmosphere,  but  the  inner  end  immersed 
in  the  liquid  sugar;  this  inner  end  is  constructed  with 
a  socket  and  plug,  like  the  key  of  an  ordinary  liquor- 
cock,  with  two  apertures  through  which,  when  open, 
liquor  may  flow.  The  proof-rod  being  introduced  into 
the  tube  and  tnrned  round,  unlocks  the  socket  and  plug 
in  the  tube,  and  allows  the  liquid  sugar  to  flow  through 
the  apertures  of  the  socket  and  plug,  into  a  recess  at 
the  bottom  of  the  key.  The  proof-rod  being  then  a- 
gain  turned,  locks  up  the  apertures  in  the  tube,  and  on 
being  withdrawn  brings  with  it  a  small  sample  of  li- 
quid sugar. 

The  attendant  boiler  then  tests  the  state  of  the  sugar, 
to  ascertain  what  degree  of  tenacity  and  granulation  it 
has  acquired.  If  the  result  is  not  satisfactory,  the  boil- 
mg  is  continued  for  some  time  longer ,  but  if  satisfac- 
tory, a  valve  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan  is  opened,  and 
the  sugar  flows  through  a  pipe  into  a  room  beneath, 
where  vessels  are  placed  for  its  reception.  The  sugar 
as  it  flows  through,  appears  to  be  much  altered,  for  it 
looks  now  like  a  mass  of  crystals  enveloped  in  a  dark 
colored  syrup.     The  purpose  to  which   the    pans   are 

applied  is  to  drive  off  in  the  form  of  vapor,  so  much  of 
the  water  which  has  been  mixed  with  the  sugar,  as  to 


•m 


■i-i  * 


ii'h  f. 


35a 


SUGAH      REFI^ERY. 


enable  the  latter  to  crystalize.  The  stranger  after  wit- 
nessing the  operations  and  curious  apparatus  connected 
with  boiling,  can  follow  the  progress  of  the  sugar  to 
the  lower  floor  of  the  building,  where  he  will  find  a 
room  containing  vessels  called  heaters,  into  which  the 
sugar  flows  from  the  pans.  In  these  heaters  the  sugar 
is  raised  to  a  temperature  of  about  180  degrees,  being 
constantly  stirred. 

The  next  part  of  the  refinery  worthy  ot  notice,  is 
the  fill-house.  This  part  ol  the  concern,  as  well  as  all 
the  other  apartments,  presented  a  very  singular  appear- 
ance. A  considerable  portion  of  the  floor  was  cover- 
ed with  iron  conical  moulds,  between  eighteen  inches 
and  two  ieet  high  and  six  inches  in  diameter,  at  the 
largest  part ;  each  one  placed  on  the  apex,  or  in  other 
words  the  pointed  end  downward,  and  upheld  by  those 
with  which  it  was  surrounded.  Hundreds,  perhaps 
thousands  of  these  moulds  were  thus  ranged  in  close 
rank  and  file,  some  were  filled  with  sugar  smoking  and 
hot  from  the  heaters,  while  others  were  in  the  act  ot 
being  filled,  and  scores  and  hundreds  empty  waiting  to 
be  filled.  These  moulds  giv  e  the  well  known  sugar-loaf 
shape  to  the  masses  of  white  sugar  bought  in  our  stores 
and  groceries. 

The  fill-house  presented  a  busy  scene.  A  number 
of  men  were  engaged  filling  the  moulds  with  liquid  su- 
gar from  the  heaters,  each  man  carrying  before  him  a 
large  copper  basin,  shaped  somewhat  like  a  coalscoop, 
and  large  enough  to  hold  about  one  hundred  weight  ol 
melted  sugar.  The  men  pass  and  repass  with  their 
scoops  filled  with  hot  viscid  sugar,  running  with  a  quick 


CHARLESTON. 


353 


elastic  motion  to  the  moulds.  In  witnessing  this,  it 
appeared  strange  that  the  men  were  not  scalded  by  the 
liability  of  the  sugar  being  spilled  from  their  shallow 
scoops. 

These  moulds  contain  sugar  and  syrup  mixed  up  to^ 
gether,  in  a  heated  and  vicid  state  ;  the  moulds  stand 
till  the  next  day  to  cool,  after  which  they  are  placed 
in  earthen  jars,  where  they  remain  for  some  time. — 
During  this  period  the  syrup  drops  out  slowly  from  the 
perforation  at  the  small  end  of  the  mould.  After  the 
syrup  has  drained  out  and  the  whole  become  sufficient- 
ly cooled,  the  mould  is  thrust  against  a  post  with  the 
end,  which  loosens  the  sugar  within,  after  which  the 
sugar-loaf  is  placed  in  an  ingenious  machine,  where 
the  surface  is  shaved  or  sheared  off,  leaving  the  body 
of  the  loaf  clean  and  smooth.  Thus  I  leave  the  sugar 
refinery,  noticing  only  a  very  small  portion  of  what 
can  be  seen  in  this  or  any  other  refining  establishment. 


iitii, 


i 


1;  I 


M?| 


CHAPTER    XXX  II. 

Charleston — Bunker-Hill-Bunker-Hill  Monument-Commence- 
ment of  the  Monument — Cost  of  the  ground — Enclosure — 
West  Front — Windows — Charming  prospect-Remark-Light- 
ning rods — Cost  of  the  Monument — Navy  Yard — Ship  Hou- 
ses— Frigate  Constitution — Dry  Dock — Park  of  Artillery — 
Park  of  Anchors — Singular  Gun — Rope  walk — Marine  and 
Naval  Hospital — Winter-Hill. 

Middlesex  county.  Charleston,  with  a  population 
of  1 1 ,484,  is  connected  with  Boston  by  several  bridges 
already  noticed.     The  city  is  handsomely  situated  on 


354. 


BUNKER-HILL    MONUMENT. 


a  very  beautiful  and  commanding  peninsula,  formed  by 
the  rivers  Charles  and  Mystic.  The  city,  though  some- 
what irregularly  built,  commands  many  fine  views  of 
the  harbor  and  the  surrounding  country.  The  most 
lofty  point  of  this  peninsula  is  Bunker-Hill,  where  was 
fought  the  bloody  battle  of  the  17th  of  June,  1775; 
and  here  just  fifty  years  afterwards,  on  the  17th  of  June, 
1829,  the  illustrious  Lafayette,  in  the  presence  of  an 
immense  concourse  of  spectators,  laid  the  corner-stone 
of  the  Bunker-Hill  Monument,  which  now  adorns  this 
beautiful  and  memorable  height. 

This  celebratad  obelisk  is  50  feet  square  at  the  base 
and  rears  its  towering  head  to  the  height  of  220  feet ; 

it  is  15  feet  square  at  the  top,  with  spiral  stairs  with- 
in, by  which  a  person  can  ascend  the  whole  height 
with  perfect  safety.  It  is  built  of  Quincy  granite,  80 
courses  high,  each  course  two  feet  eight  inches  wide ; 
and  the  whole  so  handsomely  fitted  together  and  ce- 
mented, that  it  is  with  difficulty  that  it  can  be  seen 
where  the  blocks  are  joined,  if  the  eye  be  thirty  or  for- 
ty paces  distant.  This  is  the  highest  monument  of  the 
kind  in  the  world  ;  and  is  said  to  be  not  much  lower 
than  some  of  the  Egyptian  pyramids. 

Lasting  as  pyrdmids,  it  here  proudly  records, 
1  he  Colonies  taken  from  the  British  King  and  Lords  ; 
Aiid  al^o  the  fall  of  Warrenj  Liberty's  friend, 
Who  Britain  will  remember  till  time  shall  end. 
This  towering  monument  was  seventeen  years  in  build- 
ing, being  commenced  in  1825,  under  the  administra- 
tion of  President  J.  Q.  Adams,  and  completed  in  1842, 
under  the  administration  of  President  Tyler.     The  lot 
of  ground  upon  which  it  stands  comprises  fifteen  acres, 


BUNKER-HILL    MONUMBNT. 


355 


wliich  sacred  ground  cost  $24,000.  It  is  beautitully 
enclosed  by  an  iron  fence ;  the  grounds  laid  out  with 
gravelled  walk..s,  ornamented  with  the  choicest  species 
of  shrubbery.  The  monument  is  enclosed  with  a  very 
beautiful  and  substantial  iron  lence,  erected  on  stone 
cappings.  This  enclosure  is  about  80  feet  square ;  the 
posts  are  Quincy  granite.  On  the  west  front  of  the 
monument  is  a  small  but  handsome  office,  where  the 
clerk  or  agent  is  found,  from  whom  admittance  is  pro- 
cured to  the  door  of  the  monument,  with  the  use  of  a 
telescope,  for  which  the  stranger  is  required  to  pay  a 
small  fee.  This  little  office  is  the  only  building  of  the 
kind  within  the  enclosed  fifteen  acres  of  this  beautiful 
and  memorable  height. 

The  west  front  of  the  monument  contains  the  door 
by  which  it  is  entered,  and  three  long  narrow  windows 
to  admit  light  to  the  stranger  as  he  ascends  the  spiral 
stairs ;  and  when  he  has  gained  the  top,  he  finds  four 
square  windows,  one  in  each  face  of  the  obelisk,  at  a 
convenient  height  for  him  to  look  out  with  perfect  safe- 
ty. The  windows  are  situated  north,  east,  south  and 
west.  The  ascent  to  these  windows  is  attended  with 
considerable  fatigue,  which  soon  vanishes,  apparently, 
as  the  view  from  the  windows  is  rendered  imposing, 
grand  and  picturesque  by  the  magnitude  of  the  eleva- 
tion, and  thf;  extent  and  variety  of  the  surrounding 
scenery.  We  may  take  in  at  a  single  glance  a  hun- 
dred, perhaps  a  thousand  villas  and  cottages,  with  their 
stately  parks,  blooming  gardens  and  pleasure  grounds  ; 
their  white  walls  seen  through  the  embowering  foliage, 
and  glittering  in  the  sunbeams,  from  every  hill-top  and 


.til 


35G 


DUNKEU-HILL    MONUMENT. 


If- 
I',* 


slope  bordering  on  that  renowned  and  magnificent  bay, 
whose  surface  presents  the  appearance  of  a  great  sheet 
of  bright  tin,  embosoming  a  number  of  distant  islands, 
beautified  with  the  most  luxuriant  fleece  of  vegetation, 
presenting  to  the  eye  a  delightful  appearance  ;  while 
the  vast  expanse  of  waters  surrounding  them,  by  de- 
grees become  illuminated,  reflecting  the  bright  beams 
of  the  god  of  day  with  dazzling  eflulgence.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  beauties  of  the  bay,  there  is  presented  to 
view  a  perfection  of  rural  scenery,  sufficient  to  gratily 
the  desires  of  the  most  enthusiastic  votary  of  agricul- 
ture and  a  pastoral  life. 

Here  you  may  look  down  far  beneath  your  feet  on 
the  brow  of  Charleston's  sacred  height,  now  bespan- 
gled with  beautiful  buildings,  which  was  on  the  terri- 
ble 17th  of  June,  1775,  all  enwrapt  in  flames,  with  a 
dark  and  awful  atmosphere  of  smoke  which  enveloped 
the  memorable  heiorht,  on  which  were  the  strusfglinor 
patriots,  with  their  beloved  and  lamented  Warren  ly- 
ing dead  at  their  feet.  Look  to  the  east,  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill,  and  you  behold  the  spot  where  the  British 
soldiers  landed,  now  adorned  by  a  mighty  Navy  Yard 
of  the  United  States,  animated  by  freemen  at  their  dai- 
ly avocations.  Look  to  the  south,  and  you  behold  on 
a  high  eminence,  the  "cradle  of  liberty,"  whose  inhab- 
itants first  resisted  by  force  of  arms,  the  tyranny  of 
Great  Britain  over  the  liberties  of  the  colonies.  And 
while  looking  to  the  east,  and  viewing  with  your  tele- 
scope the  wide  expanded  ocean,  bring  to  your  mind, 
when  seeing  the  ships  far  distant,  tossed  to  and  fro  by 
the  foaming  surges  of  the  briny  element,  that  from  there 


BUNKEIt-HlLL    MONUMENT. 


361 


came  the  noble  Lafayette,  with  all  his  fortune,  and  rais* 
ed  his  strong  arm  for  freedom,  and  became  the  chief 
prop  and  right'-hand  man  of  immortal  Washington,  in 
rearing  this  mighty  empire  of  liberty,  without  a  paral* 
lei  in  the  annals  of  man. 

No  wonder  the  French  people  gave  and  claimed  lor 
LaFayette,  the  proud  title  df  ("Le  Hetos  Des  Deux 
Mondes,")  for  no  sooner  than  the  enemies  of  liberty 
lay  prostrate  at  the  feet  of  freemen  in  America,  than 
he  returned  and  struggled  heroically  for  the  liberties  of 
his  native  land.  Where  the  towering  hero  moved,  a- 
mid  the  chaos  of  convulsive  France,  bringing  order  out 
of  confusion,  and  courage  of  despondency,  till  the  al- 
lied tyrants  of  Europe  crushed  brave  France,  and  hurl- 
ed her  beloved  Napoleon  on  the  rock  of  St.  Helena,  & 
tyranny  again  reigned  triumphantly  in  his  unfortunate 
and  persecuted  country. 

No  sooner  than  was  the  noble  Hero  compelled  to  bid 
adieu  to  liberty  in  France,  before  he  is  on  his  way  a- 
cross  the  same  wide  expanded  Ocean,  for  the  shores  of 
America,  and  rendered  this  memorable  Hill  hallowed 
by  his  footsteps,  when  laying  the  corner  stone  of  this 
noble  monument  of  Liberty,  now  the  admiration  of  the 
world,  from  whose  towering  pinnacle  we  may  gaze 
down  dn  its  footstool,  once  the  scene  of  that  martial 
strife,  whose  thunders  rocked  as  it  were  every  monar- 
chial  throne  in  Christendom,  and  was  the  herald  which 
proclaimed  the  dawn  of  the  liberties  of  the  world. 

At  each  corner  of  this  obelisk  there  is  a  lightning 
rod,  constructed  of  small  wire  platted  together,  so  as  to 
form  a  rod  about  an  incli  in  diameter.     It  is  construct- 


m 


■:». 


356 


NAVy-YAKi). 


ed  of  wire,  so  as  to  give  the  rod  more  surface,  which 
renders  the  structure  more  secure,  as  it  is  well  known 
that  electricity  passes  only  on  the  surface  of  its  con- 
ductor. These  rods  are  very  ingeniously  constructed 
at  the  top  of  the  monument,  being  so  united  as  to  di- 
vide the  heaviest  bolt,  and  conduct  it  to  the  ground  to 
a  sufficient  distance  from  the  foundation  of  the  monu- 
ment, so  as  to  leave  the  structure  entirely  secure  from 
harm.  There  are  four  metalic  needles  or  shafts,  points 
ing  toward  the  four  cardinal  points,  north,  south,  east 
and  west ;  one  from  the  centre  of  each  window  at  the 
top  of  the  monument,  each  of  which  shafts  extend  a 
corisiderable  distance  beyond  the  walls,  which  long 
shafts,  with  the  rods  already  noticed,  fofms  one  of  the 
most  complete  lightning  apparatuses  to  be  found  in  out 
country,  which  will  not  fail  to  attract  and  conduct  to 
the  ground,  with  perfect  safety,  the  heaviest  bolt  of 
lightning  which  may  threaten  the  destruction  of  this 
towering  obelisk,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $100,000,  proud- 
ly to  commemorate  the  spot  on  which  took  place  the 
first  important  conflict,  which  afterwards  laid  the  Brit- 
ish lion  prostrate  at  the  feet  of  freemen. 

The  United  States  Navy-Yard  contains  about  60  a- 
cres  of  ground,  enclosed  on  two  sides  by  a  stone  wall, 
about  8  feet  high,  with  only  one  gateway  by  which  it 
can  be  entered,  on  the  Charleston  or  land  side.  This 
Navy- Yard  occupies  the  ground  on  which  the  British 
landed,  when  ordered  from  Boston  by  General  Gage  to 
drive  the  Americans  from  Bunker-Hill.  This  celebra- 
ted Navy-Yard  cannot  fail  to  please  the  stranger  and 
richly  repay  a  visit. 


N  A  V  V  -  Y  A  R  P  . 


359 


The  large  and  lofty  ship  houses,  under  which  stand 
some  of  the  largest  ships  of  the  American  navy,  some 
oi  which  are  the  most  stupendous  specimens  of  naval 
architecture  to  be  found,  perhaps  in  any  Navy- Yard 
on  the  i'ace  of  the  globe.  There  are  here  hundreds  of 
workmen  employed  in  building  and  repairing  ships, 
who  cause  the  grounds  to  resound  with  the  noise  of 
their  axes,  hammers  and  saws,  which  is  intermingled 
with  the  whistle  and  song  oi  the  jolly  workman. 

Among  the  many  ships  of  the  United  States,  which 
were  undergoing  repair  in  this  yard,  was  the  famous 
frigate  Constitution,  commanded  by  Capt.  Isaac  Hull, 
who  after  a  desperate  conflict  captured  the  British  fri- 
gate Guerriere,  commanded  by  Capt.  Dacres,  which 
commenced  that  series  of  naval  achievements  for  which 
the  late  war  with  Great  Britain  was  so  distinguished. 

The  Dry  Dock,  constructed  of  hewn  granite,  is  341 
feet  long,  80  feet  wide  and  30  leet  deep,  with  its  steam 
pumps  attached,  by  means  of  which  the  water  is  pump- 
ed out  of  the  dock,  after  a  ship  has  been  floated  in,  and 
the  gates  closed  in  its  rear,  where  a  ship  of  the  largest 
class  can  be  repaired.  This  large  and  handsome  dock 
is  truly  a  very  splendid,  smooth  and  strong  piece  of 
masonry ;  and  according  to  the  inscription  on  one  of 
the  blocks  of  granite  of  which  it  is  constructed,  it  was 
commenced  under  the  administration  of  President  J. 
Q.  Adams,  and  completed  under,  the  administration  of 
President  Jackson,  at  a  cost  of  $670,089, 

The  Park  of  Artillery  is  situated  near  the  centre  of 
the  grounds,  about  half  way  between  the  barracks  and 
shiphouses.     It  is  enclosed  by  a  handciome  fence,  abcut 


I  1 


1      ^ii  < 


360 


NAVY -YARD. 


three  leet  high,  and  adorned  with  beautilul  trees.  Thn 
park  contains  the  artillery,  all  arranged  in  rows  as  near 
each  other  as  they  can  be  placed  ;  and  between  the  rows 
there  are  beautiful  gravelled  walks.  There  were  near 
seven  hundred  guns,  varying  in  size  from  a  six-pound- 
up  to  the  heaviest  guns  in  the  American  navy.  At 
one  end  of  the  park  were  a  number  of  large  heaps  of 
balls  of  various  sizes.  At  the  northeastern  end  of  this 
park,  and  between  it  and  the  water,  there  is  a  park  en- 
closed in  the  same  way  and  nearly  as  large,  which  con- 
tains the  ship  anchors.  Here  were  a  number  of  men 
engaged  in  removing  the  anchors,  and  mowing  the 
grass  and  removing  it,  which  had  sprang  up  in  the  Park, 
after  which  the  anchor  was  again  replaced,  and  a  fresh 
coat  of  paint  given  to  preserve  it  from  rust. 

The  next  object  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  stran- 
ger, was  a  very  large,  singular  and  well  polished  brass 
gun,  mounted  on  a  strange  constructed  carriage,  "which 
was  placed  about  half  way  between  the  Dry  Dock  and 
the  Park  of  Artillery.  This  singular  cannon  contain- 
ed a  number  of  emblems  and  devices,  as  well  as  inscrip- 
tions, which,  together  with  its  high  polish,  caused  it  to 
be  an  object  well  worthy  of  inspection.  Whether  this 
singular  gun  was  a  present  bestowed  by  some  foreign 
nation,  or  a  trophy  taken  by  the  Americaijs  in  1804, 
fit  Tripoli,  or  taken  during  the  war  with  Mexico,  I  was 
unable  to  learn. 

There  is  here  a  Rope  Walk,  said  to  be  the  longest 
in  the  United  States,  which  is  of  itself  interesting. — 
There  are  also  here  a  number  of  naval  store-houses,  ar- 
senals, magazines,   barracks,   and  slips,  together  with 


common  a! 


W  1  N  T  E  R  -  11  1  L  L  . 


3G1 


many  other  objects  entertaining  and  instructive  ;  added 
to  which  there  is  a  beautiful  band  of  music,  who  enli- 
ven the  whole  ground  by  their  thrilling  strains  oi  na- 
tional airs. 

The  Marine  and  Naval  Hospitals,  belonging  to  the 
United  States,  are  large  granite  buildings,  situated  in 
the  back  ground  of  the  ?\avy-Yard,  in  that  part  of  the 
town  called  Chelsea.  The  marine  deparin.ent  is  for 
Ihe  reception  of  seamen  of  the  mercantile  navy  •,  and 
the  naval  hospital  is  for  the  reception  of  si-amtMi  and 
others  belongin^f  to  the  Dnited  States  Navy. 

Winter-Hill. — This  celebrated  eminence  is  now  oc- 
cupied by  the  village  of  Somerville.     This  is  the  hil'i 
which  received  the  retreating  patriots  from  lUmker- 
Hill,  from  which  they  were  driven  by  the  British,  af- 
ter that  desperate  conflict  of  the  17th  of  June,  1775, 
which  left  Bunker-Hill  in  possession  of  the  British, 
who  however,  could  not  exult  over  their  prize,  as  it 
was  purchased  at  so  dear  a  rate,  while  VV inter-Hill 
proudly  protected  the  sad  patriots,  who  were  compel- 
led to  weep  over  the  fall  of  Warren,  for  a  strong  and 
mighty  ally,  and  a  noble  man  had  been  lost  to  the  greut 
and  irlorious  cause  of  freedom.     A   cocjtlitT  sacrifice  a 
common  altar  never  received. 


^■U 


\h 


m-z 


JfAltVARD    t'NIVKKjilTf 


CHAPTER    XXXIII. 


Cauib  d  ye — Harvard  Unrversitj — ProfessorB — Examination  of 
tje  StadentB — Education  in  MaasftchuBetts — Bequests  and  Do- 
nations— Popular  Libraries — Heavy  sale  of  books — Education 
Law — Popularity  of  Professors  and  Tutors — Bible — Lexington 
—•Monoment— Towns — Lowel) — Manufactures — Number  of 
Mills— Capital  invested — N" umber  of  Operati<'es — Number  of 
Scbooh-~-Banki ng  institutions — Mr.  John  Lo#^ell— Merrimack 
Valley -—Towns. 

Cambridge,  with  a  population  of  8,409  is  connected 
"vvith  Boston  by  a  wooden  bridge  afnd  the  famous  caus- 
way,  already  noticed.  The  town  is  'V^ell  laid  out  and 
contains  a  number  of  fine  building's,  both  public  and 
private ;  the  whole  town  is  in  a  very  flourishing  con- 
dition, and  possesses  many  attractions  not  to  be  found 
in  any  other  perhaps. 

Harvard  University  is  located  in  this  town.  This  cel- 
ebrated College  is  the  oldest  and  best  endowed  in  the 
country,  having  been  founded  as  early  as  1638,  oronl}' 
about  18  vears  after  the  landino-  of  the  Pilgrims  on  the 
rock  ol  Plymouth.  The  buildings  for  this  famous  in- 
stitution are  large,  well  built,  and  beautifully  situated 
on  grounds  handsomely  laid  out  for  the  purpose. 

The  College  contains  about  400  students  and  32  pro- 
fessors, each  assisted  by  one  or  more  tutors.  Many  ol 
them  are  well  known  in  the  literary  world  as  authors. 
Five  only  of  the  thirty-two  were  educated  for  the  pul- 
pit, three  of  whom  are  prolessors  of  divinity,  one  of  e- 
thics,  and  one  of  history.  All  the  students  are  requi- 
red to  attend  divine  service  ii;i  the  churches  to  which 
they  teverally  belong:  but  tk^  divinity-school  for  pro- 


f:  D  L  d'  A  1  t  O  N 


363 


iVsslonal  education  is  Unitarian.  The  pupils  are  ex- 
amined in  the  New  Testament,  in  Paley's  Evidences, 
and  Butler's  Analog3\  The  tutors  selected  by  the  pro-* 
lessors  of  this  College,  may  in  some  degree,  be  compa- 
red to  our  private  tutors,  except  that  they  are  more  un- 
der the  direction  of  the  professors,  being  selected  by 
them  from  among  the  graduates,  as  the  best  scholars, 
and  each  is  specially  devoted  to  some  one  department 
of  learning.  These  tutors,  from  whose  number  the  pro- 
fessors are  commonly  chosen^  usually  teach  the  first 
year  students,  or  prepare  pupils'  for  the  professors  lec- 
tures. Care  is  also  bestowed  on  fhi-  classification  of 
the  young  men  according  to  their  acquirements,  talents- 
and  tacit ee.  To  accomplish  this  object,  the  student  on> 
entering  the  College  may  offer  to  undergo  an  examina- 
tion, and  if  he  succeeds,  he  may  pass  at  once  into  the 
second,  third  or  fourth  year's  class  3  the  intermediate 
steps  being  dispensed  with.  He  may  also  choose  cer- 
tain subjects  of  study,  which  are  regarded  as  equiva- 
lents, or  are  exchangeable  with  others.  Thus  in  the 
four  years  of  the  regular  academical  course,  a  compe- 
tent Icnowledge  of  Latin,  Greek  and  of  various  branch- 
es of  mathematics  is  exacted  from  all ;  but  in  regard  to 
other  subjects,  such  as  moral  philosophy,  modern  lan- 
guages, chemifitry,  mineralogy  and  geology,  some  of 
them  may  be  substituted  for  others,  at  the  option  of  the 
pupil.  There  are  public  examinations  at  the  end  of 
every  term,  for  awarding  honors,  or  ascertaining  the 
proficiency  of  students  ;  who,  if  they  have  been  negli- 
gent, or  put  back  into  a  previous  year's  class,  the  peri- 
od of  taking  thrir  decree  in  thai  casr,  is  deferred. — . 


#ii!fi 


''■■ 
\ 


111 


'•>     :;t  \W'-\  v:\ 


%^ 


36  4^ 


EDUCATION. 


Honors  at  this  Collcgo  are  obtainable  for  almost  even 
subject  taught  by  any  professor;  but  emulation  is  not 
relied  upon  as  the  chief  inducement  for  study.  Afttr 
passing  an  examination  for  the  fourth  year's  class,  the 
student  can  obtain  the  degree  of  Bachelor  of  Arts,  and 
may  enter  the  divinity,  medical,  or  law  schools. 

The  stranger  in  travelling  through  the  famous  old 
State  of  Massachusetts,  and  visiting  her  celebrated  Col- 
leges, and  seeing  the  State  spotted   vith  school-houses, 
is  compelled  to  come  to  the  conclusion  that  there  is  no 
other  region  inhabited  by  the  Anglo-Saxon  race,  con- 
taining 750,000  souls,  where  national  education  has 
been  carried  so  far.     What  are  the  chief  causes  of  its 
success,  I  am  unable  to  say.     It  doubtless  is  to  be  at- 
tributed to  a  combination  of  causes.     The  followino-  has 
aided  to  a  considerable  extent  no  doubt,  in  raising  and 
carrying  forward  this  important  cause  :    First,  there  is 
no  class  in  want  or  extreme  poverty  here,  partly  be- 
cause the  facility  of  migration  to  the  western  States,  for 
those  who  are  without  employment  is  so  great,  and  in 
part  from  the  check  to  improvident  marriages,  created 
by  the  hio-h  standard  of  living,  to  which  the  lowest 
work  people  aspire  ;  a  standard  which  education  is  rai- 
sing hi(>-;u  r  and  higher  from  da}^  to  day.     Secondly,  it 
is  generally  declared  by  politicians  of  opposite  parties, 
that  there  is  no  safety  for  the  Republic,  now  that  the 
electoral  suffrage  has  been  so  much  extended,  unless  ei- 
ery  exertion  is  made  to  raise  the  moral  and  intellectu- 
al condition  of  the  masses,  as  universal  sufTrajre  has  a 
tendency  to  point  out  the  dangers  of  ignorance.  Third- 
ly, the  political  anti  social  equality  of  all  religious  sects. 


K  I)  T  ■  C  A  T  1  O  K  . 


305 


This  equality  tends  to  remove  the  greatest  stumbling- 
block  still  standing  in  the  wav  ol  national  instruction, 
in  some  parts  oi' Europe,  and  unhappily  in  some  of  the 
States,  where  we  allow  one  generation  after  another  of 
the  lower  classes,  to  grow  up  without  being  taught  as 
they  should  be,  good  morals,  good  behavior,  and  the 
knowledge  of  things  useful  and  ornamental,  partly  be- 
cause we  cannot  all  agree  as  to  the  precise  theological 
doctrines  in  which  they  are  to  be  brought  up.  In  the 
ijurth  place  we  observe,  that  there  is  no  subject  in 
which  the  people  of  Massachusetts  display  more  ear- 
nestness, than  in  their  desire  to  improve  their  system 
of  education,  both  elementary  and  academical.  They 
have  sent  missionaries  to  Europe,  who  examined  the 
celebrated  systems  of  Germany,  Holland,  Britain  and 
France,  and  published  elaborate  reports  on  the  m.ethods 
of  teaching  employed  by  those  learned  nations;  and 
seem  ready  to  adopt  whatever  appears  worthy  of  imi- 
tation in  these  different  models. 

Again,  the  munificent  bequests  and  donations  for  pub- 
lic purposes,  whether  charitable  or  educational,  forma 
striking  ieature  in  the  modern  history  of  the  New  Eng- 
land States,  and  especial  the  State  ot  Massachusetts. — 
Not  only  is  it  commoti  for  rich  capitalists  to  leave  by 
will,  a  portion  of  their  fortune  towardsthc  endowment 
of  national  institutions  ;  but  individuals  duringi;  their 
lifetime,  make  magnificent  grants  of  money  for  the  same 
objects.  There  is  here  no  compulsory  law  for  the  e- 
qual  partition  of  property  among  children,  as  in  France; 
and  on  the  other  hand,  no  custom  of  entail  or  primo- 
geniture, as  in  England ;  so  that  the  aflluent  feel  ihem- 


mi 


3G(i 


poriiLAii  ijnnARiK>. 


selvos  at  liberty  to  share  their  wealth  between  tlu*ir 
kindred  and  the  public.  Here,  with  all  their  donations, 
-parents  have  the  pleasure  and  happiness  of  seeing  all 
their  children  well  provided  for  and  independent  lon^ 
before  their  death.  I  here  seen  a  list  of  bequests  and 
donations  made  during  the  last  twenty  years,  for  the 
benefit  of  religious,  charitable  and  literary  institution?, 
in  the  State  of  Massachusetts  alone  :  and  they  amount- 
ed to  no  less  a  sum  than  $6,000,000.  These  donations 
consisted  of  from  $100  up  to  $20,000  for  a  single  indi- 
\idual,  and  in  several  instances  it  exceeded  that  sum. 

The  traveller  will  find  jjopular  libraries  in  almost 
every  village  of  Massachusetts  ;  and  observe  a  growing 
taste  for  the  reading  of  good  books,  which  is  attested 
by  the  heavy  sale  of  large  editions  of  such  works  a^ 
Herschel's  Natural  Philosophy,  Washington  Irvlng's 
Columbus,  Plutarch's  Lives,  Johnes'  Transhition  ci' 
Froissart's Chronicles,  Leibig's  Animal  Chemistry,  Corn- 
stock's  Philosophy,  Sear's  Works,  Prescott's  Mexico, 
and  hundreds  of  other  works,  read  by  all  classes.  The 
traveller  can  also  distinctly  perceive,  that  not  only 
those  works  that  have  a  practical  tendency,  awake  at- 
tention and  command  respect:  but  the  purely  scientific, 
which  possess  far  greater  merit,  arc  also  prized  very 
highly  by  the  same  book-loving  people. 

The  law  of  this  State  ordains,  that  everv  district  con- 
taining  fift}'  families  shall  maintain  one  school :  for  the 
support  of  which  the  inhabitants  are  required  to  tax 
themselves,  and  to  appoint  committees  annually  for 
manaorin^  the  funds  and  choosinji;  their  own  schoolmas- 
ter.^.     The  Bo&lonians  submit  to  pay  annually  for  pub- 


R  r*  i:  C  A  T  T  o  N  , 


;}<w 


their 
f<ions, 


^^  all 


s  and 
r  the 
tionjj, 
oiint- 
ations 
indi- 
um. 
1 1  most 


lie  instruction,  in  their  city  alone,  the  sum  of  $120,- 
000,  which  is  all  cheerfully  paid ;  and  to  keep  their 
glorious  system  of  education  in  a  flourishing  condition, 
they  would  submit  to  pay  double  that  sum  without  a 
murmur.  In  the  schools  the  Bible  is  allowed  to 
be  read  in  all,  and  is  actually  read  in  nearly  all  the 
schools  ;  but  the  law  prohibits  the  use  of  books  calcula- 
ted to  favor  the  tenents  of  any  particular  sect  of  Chris- 
tians, In  this  case,  parents  and  guardians  are  expect^ 
ed  to  teach  their  own  children,  or  procure  them  to  be 
taught,  what  they  believe  to  be  religious  truth ;  and  for 
this  purpose,  besides  family  worship  and  the  pulpit, 
there  are  Sunday  Schools.  This  is  a  sysfem  which 
works  well  among  this  church-building  and  church- 
going  populatioa. 

The  law  prohibiting  the  use  of  books  calculaie»i  to 
favor  the  tenents  of  a  particular  sect  of  Christians,  in 
Colleges  and  schools,  in  my  judgment  has  an  excellent 
tendency,  because  at  College,  the  pupils  are  brought 
together  on  neutral  and  usually  on  friendly  ground, 
where  kindly  feelings  and  sympathies  will  generally 
spring  up  spontaneously,  and  will  be  cherished  in  after 
life  by  congenial  souls,  however  distant  the  station,  dis- 
tinct the  religious  opinions  or  professional  employments- 
While  on  the  other  hand,  where  sectarianism  reigns 
triumphantly,  it  is  generally  found  to  disunite  thes<> 
and  other  sections  of  the  same  community,  and  throws 
them  into  antagonist  massey ;  each  keeping  aloof  from 
the  other,  in  cold  and  jealous  seclusion ;  each  cherish^ 
ing  sectarian  or  party  animositicB;  or  professional  and 
Moehl  projudicps.     jiow  often  is  it  that  complaints  ar^ 


k-  I 


1\, 


3t>8 


E  D  t;  C  A  T  I  O  N  . 


hoarJ,  ;ind  nol  without  reason,  of  the  harsii  outlint-? 
that   ofleii   separate   thr  difForent  denominations  and 
grades  of  society  in  our  country?     Much  of  this  origi- 
nates and  is  fostered  in  the  season  of  youth  ;  and  when 
men  are  engaged  in  the  common  pursuits  of  knowledge, 
especially  if  allowed  as  far  as  possible  to  follow  the 
bent  of  their  own  tastes  and  genius.     There  is  no  doubt 
by  this  excellent  system,  friendships  might  be  and  are 
formed,  tending  to  soften  these  hard  outlines.     1  fan- 
cied the  reli<i;ious  toleration  of  the  different  sects  to- 
wan'-  each  other  in  the  State  of  Massachusetts,  is  ac- 
companied with  more  Christian  charity  than  is  gener- 
ly  found  in  many  other  sections  of  the  Union,  much  of 
which  I  attributed  to  their  excellent  systems  of  Colle- 
ges and  Schools.     In  this  famous  Commonwealth,  fam- 
ilies are  not  found  divided,  and  the  best  relations  of  pri- 
vate life  disturbed  by  the  bitterness  of  sectarian  dogma- 
tism and  jealousy,  which  unhappily  is  too  much  the 
case  in  many  of  the  other  States ;  and  even  the  renown- 
ed old  Dominion  is  not   exempt  from  the  evil.     But 
with  these  church-building  and  church-going  popula- 
tion, a  great  degree  of  religious  freedom  is  enjoyed,  as 
there  is  no  sect  to  w^hich  it  is  ungenteel  to  belong,  no 
consciences  sorely  tempted  by  ambition,  to  conform  to 
a  more  fashionable  creed. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  every  professor  and  tu- 
tor of  these  colleges  and  schools  commands  the  utmost 
respect  of  his  pupils,  which,  among  other  things  goes 
to  show  that  he  is  not  ill  qualified  for  his  post.  No  one 
who  is  master  of  his  favorite  science,  will  fail  to  in- 
spire the  minds  of  his  more  intellectual  scholars  with  a 


love  o 
for  the 
tracti( 
theBi 
into  tl: 
thoug 
congre 
to  the 
vert  it 
Mic 
1642, 
place 
olutior 
pril, 
ed  by 
and  se 
torious 
them  i 
perse, 
diatel}! 
ordere 
and  di 
ment  ^ 
Then 
the  na 
fall  of 
brethi 
innoc 
On 
Centr 
Bosto 


L  i:  x  1  N  c  r  (..  y. 


:jv;i* 


love  of  what  he  teaches,  and  a  regard  and  admiration 
for  their  instructor.  Among  the  many  objects  oi"  at- 
traction in  Harvard  College,  may  be  seen  a  copy  of 
the  Bible,  translated  by  the  missionary  Father  Elliott, 
into  the  Indian  tongue.  It  is  now  a  dead  laiifjcuaoi-e,  al- 
though  preached  ior  several  generations,  to  crowded 
congregations  of  the  aboriginal  tribes,  which  language, 
to  the  unaccustomed  car,  sounds  sino;ular  enougii  todi- 
vert  its  possessor. 

Middlesex  county,  Lexington,  with  a  population  of 
1642,  is  celebrated  as  being  the  spot  on  which  took 
place  the  first  action  that  opened  the  war  of  the  Rev- 
olution. It  was  here  on  the  morning  of  the  1 9th  of  A- 
pril,  1775,  that  seventy  militia  on  parade,  were  attack- 
ed by  Major  Pitcairn,  and  eight  of  their  number  killed 
and  several  wounded,  without  provocation.  The  no- 
torious Pitcairn,  on  seeing  them  on  parade,  rode  up  to 
them  and  with  a  loud  voice  cried  out,  "disperse,  dis- 
perse, you  rebels."  The  sturdy  yeomanry  not  imme- 
diately obeying  his  orders,  he  discharged  his  pistol,  and 
ordered  a  part  of  eight  hundred  of  his  grenadiers  to  fire 
and  disjoerse  them.  On  the  battle-ground  is  a  monu- 
ment erected  to  the  memory  of  the  eight  men  killed. 
The  monument  contains  suitable  inscriptions,  honoring 
the  names  of  the  patriots,  whos?  blood  sealed  the  down- 
fall of  the  British  tyranny  over  the  colonies;  as  their 
brethren  vowed  upon  the  crirasoned  field  to  avenge  their 
innocent  blood. 

On  our  way  to  Lowell,  we  passed  through  Woburn 
Centre,  containing  a  population  of  2993,  sitated  on  the 
Boston  and  Lowell  railroad,  10  miles  from  Boston.  The 


16 


^* 


agf"::- 


'.no 


1.  (1  ^v  i:  I.  I. 


town  of  VVoliiira  is  ii  well  built,  haii(l:ionie  and  flour- 
i.shin<5  little  \)]\\?a\  Ijotwi-en  it  and  Lowell  are  VVill- 
mington,  Tewksbury  and  Bcllcrica  Mills,  each  with  a 
population  of  from  t\\  elve  lo  fifteen  hundred,  situated 
in  the  Merrimack  valley,  all  villages  of  considerable 
attraction. 

Lowell,  with  a  population  of  29,127,  is  situated  at  the 
junction  of  the  (.'oncord  and  Merrimack  Rivers.  The 
rapidity  of  its  growth  is  almost  without  a  parallel.  In 
1813  a  cotton  factory  was  established  here  ;  intheyear 
1815  it  contained  a  few  scattered  dv/ellinjrs  ;  in  1820 
it  contained  about  200  inhabitants;  and  now  it  is  the 
most  extensive  manufacturing  town,  not  only  in  Mas- 
sachusetts, but  in  North  America. 

Water-power  is  supplied  by  a  large  and  powerful 
canal,  which  is  fed  by  the  Merrimack  river.  The  cap- 
ital invested  in  manufactures  in  this  place,  is  no  less 
than  the  sum  of  $11,400,000.  The  Merrimack  com- 
pany alone  has  a  capital  of  $2,000,000.  There  are  here 
45  mills,  containing  no  less  than  253,456  spindles  and 
7,756  looms,  which  consume  annually  the  enormous 
sum  of  62,400  bales  of  cotton.  There  are  employed  no 
less  than  7,915  females  in  these  factories,  who  are 
chielly  young  women  from  the  age  of  IS  to  25,  who 
attend  to  the  spinning-jennies  and  looms.  They  are 
generally  handsome,  neatly  dressed,  chiefly  the  daugh- 
ters of  New  England  farmers,  sometimes  of  the  poorer 
clergy.  These  poor  girls  have  stated  hours  of  work, 
(12  hours  a  day  ;.)  each  girl  attending  two  spinning-jen- 
nies, or  four  looms,  which  by  the  by,  is  a  heavy  task. 
Their  moral  character  stands  very  high  ;   and  a  girl  is 


L  o  \v  r;  L  I. . 


371 


li 


paid  off  if  the  least  doubt  exists  on  that  point.  Many 
of  the  boarding-houses  are  kept  by  widows,  some  of 
which  are  co'.venient  to  the  factories,  while  others  ai'« 
at  a  considerable  distance  off.  In  these  boarding-hou- 
ses the  operatives  are  required  to  board,  the  men  and 
women  being  separate. 

There  are  also  in  the  same  employ,  3340  men,  who 
are  generally  employed  in  bearing  burdens,  war]f^ing, 
and  performing  sundry  ollices  too  burdensome  ior  the 
females.  There  are  few  children  employed  in  these 
factories,  and  those  under  fifteen  years  of  age,  are  com- 
pelled by  law,  to  go  to  school  three  months  in  the  year, 
under  penalty  of  a  heavy  fine.  If  this  regulation  is  in- 
fringed, informers  are  not  wanting ;  for  there  is  a  strong 
sympathy  in  the  public  mind,  with  all  acts  of  the  leg- 
islature enforcing  education. 

The  factories  at  this  place  are  not  only  on  a  large 
scale,  but  are  so  managed  as  to  yield  heavy  profits,  as 
they  are  situated,  arranged  and  conducted  in  every 
point  of  view,  with  the  highest  regard  to  profit,  bciiig 
situated  within  26  miles  of  the  city  of  Boston,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  an  excellent  railroad.  There 
is  here  a  high  school,  the  building  of  which  cost  the 
sum  of  $28,000.  There  are  also  in  the  town  8  gram- 
mar schools,  and  29  nublic  schools  ;  all  of  which  are 
in  the  most  flourishing  condition.  The  Lowell  Bank, 
at  this  place,  chartered  in  1828,  has  a  capital  of  $250,- 
000.  The  Railroad  Bank,  chartered  in  1831,  has  a 
capital  of  $800,000. 

These  celebrated  mills  are  remarkably  clean  and  well 
warmed  for  establishments  so  extensive.     Most  all  are 


I 


i< 


>  '^i 


372 


r.  (>  n*  r.  i, :, 


employed  in  itiaking  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  vast 
quantities  of  which  are  exported  to  the  v\est.  The 
Literary  Institute,  or  public  school  abov  noticed,  is 
said  to  be  the  donation  of  Mr.  John  Loweli,  whoniade 
some  heavy  donations  for  literary  establishments  in  his 
native  State,  and  who  on  a  visit  to  Europe,  drew  up 
hi|  last  will  and  testament  amid  the  ruins  of  Thebes,  in 
the  year  1)335,  leaving  half  his  remaining  fortune  for 
this  institution^  and  then  pursued  his  travels  in  the  hope 
of  exploring  India  and  China.  On  his  way,  he  passed 
through  Egypt,  where  being  attacked  while  engaged 
in  making  a  collection  of  antiquities,  by  an  intermit- 
tent fever,  of  which  he  soon  died. 

In  passing  up  the  Merrimack  valley,  we  had  on  our 
route  the  towns  of  Middlesex,  Chelmsford,  celebrated 
for  its  excellent  granite,  and  Tynsboro,  each  contain- 
ing between  fifteen  and  eighteen  hundred  inhabitants, 
and  all  of  which  are  situated  on  the  Lowell  and  Man- 
chester railroad.  A  considerable  portion  of  the  land  up 
this  valley,  is  of  an  inferior  quality,  especially  near  the 
river  ;  it  is  however,  so  Highly  and  skilfully  cultivated 
that  the  crops  presented  quite  a  promising  appearance. 
In  continuing  bur  course  up  the  valley,  we  again  en- 
tered the  State  of  New  Hampshire. 


\  A  5  11  I    A  . 


37. S 


C  H  A  P  T  B  U    XXXI V  . 

STATE  or  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 

Nashua — Manufactures — Towns — Manchester — Streets— Build- 
ings— Falls  of  Amoskeag — Manufactures — Sad  Accident — La- 
bor of  the  Operatives  compared  with  slave  labor  of  the  South 
— Abolitionists  of  New  England — Emancipation  of  Slavery — 
Villajgres — Concord — Uridines — Slate  House — State  Prison— 
Merrimack  Falls — Railroads — Return  to  Boston. 

Hillsborough  count]/.  The  first  object  of  attraction 
on  entering  the  State  from  the  South,  is  the  town  of 
Nashua,  containing  a  population  of  6050.  This  town 
is  very  beautifully  situated  near  the  southern  line  of 
the  State.  There  are  here  several  very  large  cotton 
mills,  which  are  propelled  by  the  waters  of  the  Mer- 
rimack river.  These  mills  are  conducted  on  the  plan 
of  those  at  Lowell,  and  manufacture  a  great  deal  of  do- 
mestic goods.  Still  farther  up  the  Merrimack  river 
are  situated  a  number  of  flourishing  little  villages,  a- 
mong  which  are  Thornton's  Ferry,  Reed's  Ferry  and 
GofF's  Ferry.  The  latter  is  a  considerable  village,  con- 
taining 2376  inhabitants.  There  are  also  here  some 
factories  of  various  kinds.  The  lands  in  the  vicinity 
of  these  villages,  has  no  appearance  of  being  of  a  high 
quality. 

Manchester  is  another  celebrated  manufacturing  town 
with  a  population  of  3235,  This  place  is  beautifully 
situated,  about  half  a  mile  below  Amoskeag  falls,  on  the 
Merrimack  river,  58  miles  north  of  Boston  and  32  miles 
up  the  river  from  Lowell,  The  town  of  Manchester  is 
located  in  a  somewhat  rugged  region  of  country,  the 
town  however  is  situated  on  a  handsome,  high  and  com- 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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M  A  N  C  II  K  S  T  E  R  , 


manding  site.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  contains  som.? 
handsome  streets,  ornamented  with  shade  trees  of  a  rarti 
and  choice  species ;  the  buildincrs  are  large  and  beauti- 
ful, among  which  are  several  fine   public  buildings. 

In  the  centre  of  the  town  there  is  a  public  square,  en- 
closed by  a  fine  railing,  and  beautifully  laid  out  with 
walks,  adorned  with  a  number  oi  flourishing  shad.- 
trees  and  flowering  shrubbery.  To  the  north  of  the 
town,  toward  the  foot  of  a  gentle  slope,  are  situated  the 
factories  for  which  Manchester  is  so  much  celebrated. 

The  falls  of  Amoskeag  affords  an  immense  water 
power,  which  is  employed  in  propelling  a  number  of 
very  large  nianufacturing  establishments,  some  of  the 
buildings  of  which  are  from  six  to  six  hundred  and  fif- 
ty feet  long  and  two  stories  high,  while  others  there- 
with connected,  are  about  two  hundred  feet  square  and 
from  five  to  six  stories  high,  the  whole  of  which  are 
constructed  of  brick. 

Manchester  is  classed  the  second  manufacturing  town 
HI  the  United  States.  The  males  and  females  employ- 
ed as  operatives,  more  than  double  exceed  the  whole 
regular  population  of  the  town.  Jhe  two  most  exten- 
sive companies  at  this  place  are  the  Stark  and  Amos- 
keag. The  water  is  conveyed  from  the  falls  by  an  e- 
normous  canal,  which  supplies  the  propelling  power 
to  the  diflTerent  factories.  Between  the  cotton  mills 
and  the  rivev  there  are  a  number  ot  saw  mills  and  oth- 
er factories,  among  which  are  some  for  sawing,  dressing 
and  polishing  marble  and  granite. 

On  the  morning  before  my  arrival,  a  sad  accident  oc- 
curred at  the  de|.ot.     A  little  girl  eleven  years  old,  the 


M  A  .\  c  II  i;  b  T  i:  II  . 


.-57:) 


only  child  of  an  operative  in  ono  of  the  factories,  in 
attempting  to  cross  the  railroad  track  for  the  purpose 
of  telling  her  father  to  come  to  his  meal,  as  was  her 
custom,  was  run  over  by  the  engine  and  instantly  kil- 
led. This  accident  was  not  attributed  to  aiiy  neglect 
of  the  engineer  or  firemen,  for  the  unfortunat;/  little 
girl  was  just  turning  the  corner  of  the  depot-house  as 
the  cars  entered,  and  of  course  could  not  be  seen  by 
them  ;  and  on  stopping  were  horror-struck  on  finding 
her  lying  beside  the  track,  with  her  head  entirely  mash- 
ed by  two  of  the  engine  wheels.  No  sooner  vyas  this 
sad  accident  related,  than  T  heard  another,  of  a  vouns 
man,  his  widowed  mother's  only  dependance  for  sup- 
port, with  his  two  small  children,  of  his  losing  an  arm 
and  leg  from  the  same  cause,  by  his  own  neglect. 

By  the  time  I  arrived  at  this  great  manufacturing 
town,  through  some  of  the  northern  and  eastern  States, 
I  had  heard  a  great  deal  of  complaint  from  the  aboli- 
tion party,  against  slave  labor  and  the  slave  treatment 
of  the  South ;  and  what  made  it  appear  more  remarka- 
ble to  me,  was,  that  many  of  those  complaints  were 
heavily  urged  by  men  who  have  sons  or  daughters  em- 
ployed as  operatives  in  those  factories.  In  many  of  the 
factories,  and  more  especially  at  the  celebrated  manu- 
facturing town  of  Lowell,  as  well  as  this  place,  I  had 
opportunities  of  seeing  the  condition  of  the  poor  facto- 
ry girl ;  which  two  places  alone  employ  nearly  15,- 
000  women  and  6,000  men,  which  I  considered  a  suf- 
ficient number  to  give  a  fair  sample  of  the  condition  of 
the  operatives  in  manufacturing  establishments.  There- 
fote,  I  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  find  those  inteUi" 


r^i' 


ii 


37G 


LUNDITIO.N    ()!•      I  in;    (JrKJJAriVI'S. 


gent  men  the  more  eager  to  throw  stones,  though  liv-> 
ing  themselves  in  glass  houses. — For  so  tar  as  I  am  ca- 
pable of  judging,  there  is  no  slave  labor  of  the  South 
or  of  Virginia  at  least,  except  it  be  like  labor,  that  J 
consider  so  hard  a  task,  by  a  very  considerable  per  cent, 
as  the  task  of  the  poor  factory  girl;  lor  all  the  factories 
which  I  visited  in  the  spinning  and  weaving  depart- 
ments, one  girl  would  be  attending  two  spinning-jen- 
nies, or  four  looms,  which  would  keep  them  very  busy 
indeed.  The  various  other  employments  in  the  facto- 
ries I  consider  very  little  if  any  better ;  the  whole  be- 
ing certainly  very  injurious  to  health  ;  the  confinement 
in  the  building  lor  twelve  long  hours  a  day,  where 
there  is  no  tree  circulation  of  iresh  air,  the  whole  buil- 
ding being  fogged  over  with  particles  of  cotton  and 
dust,  and  the  air  perfumed  with  oil,  in  which  the  ope- 
ratives are  required  to  work  for  twelve  long  hours  a 
day,  and  allowed  but  half  an  hour  at  dinner.  At  hall 
past  twelve  o'clock,  the  bells  ring,  at  which  they  cease 
their  operations  and  in  a  few  minutes  after,  they  are 
seen  walking^  and  running  bv  hundreds  and  even  thou- 
sands  to  their  respective  boarding-houses,  some  of  which 
are  from  three  to  four  hundred  yards  distant.  At  one 
o'clock  the  bells  again  ring  to  summon  them  to  their 
posts ;  and  almost  instantly  the  streets  will  be  seen 
crowded  by  them,  some  of  whom,  owing  to  the  dis- 
tance they  have  to  go,  have  not  time  to  finish  their 
meals  at  the  table,  and  return  to  their  work  with  a  piece 
in  their  hand,  eating  as  they  go. 

What  portion  of  the  year  the  operatives  are  requi- 
red to  labor  twrlve  hours  a  dftv  I  am  unabj^*  to  nav :  but 


f  1 


CONDITION*    OF    Tlin    OPKUATIVKS. 


377 


-nirii 


nIiouUI  the  many  thousands  employed  in  the   manufac- 
turing^ establislinients  of  the  New  England  States,  be 
ground  down  for  any  con^jiderable  portion  of  the  3'ear, 
hy  the  same  ru'-sand  regulations  which  prevail  at  the 
two  principal  manufacturing  towns,  which  is  to  labor 
hard  for  twelve  hours  a  day,  and  breathe  the  impure  air 
of  the  factory,  with  only  half  an  hour  intermission  for 
dinner,  with  the  confinement,  will  certainly  be  the  cause 
of  withering  down  many  a  lovely  woman  to  an  early 
grave.     I  did  not  note  these  particulars  as  a  dispara- 
ojingi;  remark  to  the  manuficturinor  establishments,  for 
such  establishments  are  necessary  and  should  receive 
due  encouragement :  but  I  simply   noted   their  severe 
rules  and  regulation.^,  because  I  considered  them  capa- 
ble of  more  than  covering  the  rules  and  regulations 
concerning  slave  labor  and  slave  treatment  of  the  South. 
I  olten  asked  myself,  when  in  the  midst  of  these  ab- 
olition States,  how  it  could  be  possible  for  an  intelli- 
gent and  an  honest  niass  of  people,  to  be  so  deluded  by 
a  few  unprincipled  fanatics,  who  by  an  array  of  noto- 
rious exaggerations  and  falsehoods,  succeed  in  enlisting 
the  sympathies  of  the  masses  to  a  considerable  extent  in 
their  cause,  so  that  the  Southern  stranger  hears  many 
a  heart-rendiniT  storv,  concerning  slave  treatment  and 
slave  labour  of  the  South  :  and  not  un  frequently  meets 
with  a  pamphlet  containincr  the  basest   exaggerations 
relating  to  the  same,  which  with  their  speeches,  goes 
to  show  that  at  least  some  persons  are  perfectly  mad 
upon  the  subject  of  slavery,  and  are  ready  to  lay  trains 
which  have  not  only  a  tendency  to  disorganise  and  dis- 
unite, but  if  fully  matured  would  shake  the  very  Union 


i»i!i. 


.178 


ABOLITION JsTS    or    NCW    ENGLAND. 


to  its  centre.  I  was  delighted,  however,  to  find  tho 
mass  of  the  people  honest  in  their  abolition  opinions, 
acknowledging  they  have  no  right  to  meddle  with  the 
institutions  c^  "iher  States,  disclaiming  all  power  there- 
with connected,  save  that  of  expressing  their  opinions, 
which  they  always  done  in  a  very  respectful  manner ; 
therefore  a  conversation  with  this  portion  of  the  popu- 
lation on  the  question  of  abolition  of  slavery,  is  by  no 
means  so  disagreeable  a  subject  as  it  is  when  assaulted 
by  some  one  of  their  more  ultra  brethren. 

The  abolitionists  of  the  New  England  States  may  with 
same  propriety  be  divided  into  three  classes  :  the  mod- 
erate, the  ultra,  and  the  fanatic.  To  the  first  of  these 
classes  I  am  happy  to  find  belong  a  majority  of  the  pop- 
ulation. It  is  not  unusual  to  hear  the  ultra  abolition- 
ist heavily  denouncing  the  slave  institution  of  the  South, 
and  among  his  complaints,  he  raises  a  great  cry  against 
the  Federal  basis,  which  he  contends  gives  to  the  South 
more  representation  in  the  Federal  Government  than 
she  is  entitled  to,  according  to  the  white  population ; 
this  however,  is  only  a  part  ol  his  objections,  we  there- 
fore find  him  more  ready  to  intermeddle  with  southern 
institutions,  by  his  eagerness  to  inflict  upon  the  South, 
such  measures  as  he  thinks  will  have  a  tendency  to  ia- 
vor  his  ends,  than  we  find  in  his  more  moderate  breth* 
ren.  The  Wilmot  Proviso  is  one  of  his  favorite  meas- 
ures, as  an  auxiliary  in  stifling  the  South. 

It  is  not  a  little  singular,  yet  bordering  on  disgust, 
to  hear  this  class  of  men  eulogising  the  capacities  of  the 
negro  for  advancement  in  society.  The  schools  forth^ 
colored  population  at  Boston  are  fre(|uently  alluded  tu 


EMANCIPATION    *>F    SI.AVKRV. 


3:0 


in  showing  that  black  children  show  as  much  quick- 
ness in  learning  as  the  whites.     To  what  extent  the 
faculties  of  the  negro  might  be  developed  as  adults,  we 
have  as  yet  no  means  of  judging  :  but  so  far  as  my  read- 
ing extends,  I  never  have  learned  a  single  instance, 
where  an  educated  black  has  ever  yet,  with  all  his  op- 
portunities of  ripening  or  displaying  superior  talents, 
in  this  or  any  other  civilized  country  ;    that   he  ever 
reached  in  literature,  the  learned  professions,  or  any 
political  eminence.     Therefore  it  is  quite  a  strange  phi- 
losophy to  me,  that  the  blacks  of  Massachusetts  and  0- 
ther  New  England  States  should  rival  the  whites  in 
learning.     The  emancipation  of  slavery  in  the  West 
Indies,  appears  to  furnish  a  rich  repast  for  the  minds 
of  those  philanthropists,   as  they   point   frequently  to 
that  event,  and  the  moral  and  intellectual  condition  of 
the  blacks  of  those  Islands,  when  making  their  assaults 
upon  the  institutions  of  the  South.     This  however  is  a 
very  lame  argument,  because  the  great  experiment  now 
making  in  the  West  Indies,  affords  no  parallel  case,  as 
the  climate  there  is  far  more  sultry,  relaxing  and  try- 
ing to  Europeans,  than  the  Southern  States  of  the  U- 
nion,  and  it  is  well  known  to  all,  that  the  West  Indian 
proprietors  have  no  choice,  the  whites  being  so  few  in 
number,  that  the  services  of  the  colored  race  are  indis- 
pensable.    And  again,  England  had  a  right  to  interfere 
and  legislate  for  her  own  colonics,  whereas  the  north- 
ern States  of  the  Union  and  foreigners  have  no  right 
to  intermeddle  with  the  domestic  concerns  of  the  slave 
States.     Such  intervention  must  have  a  tendencv  to  ex- 
cite  the  fears  and  indignation  of  the  Southern  planter, 


CI^^ii^^**''''*^'^ 


380 


LMANCiri^TlUN    or    SLANliRV. 


and  thereby  retard,  and  must  be  expected  to  retard  the 
progress  of  the  cause.  A  deep  sense  of  injustice  and  a 
feeling  of  indignation  will  of  course  disincline  him  to 
persevere  in  advocating  the  cause  of  emancipation. — 
It  is  also  known  to  every  intelligent  man,  how  long 
and  obstinate  a  struggle  the  West  Indian  proprietors 
had  made  against  the  emancipationists  in  the  British 
House  of  Commons.  It  is  farther  evident,  that  had  the 
different  islands  been  directly  represented  in  the  Low- 
er House  of  Parliament,  and  there  been  Dukes  of  Ja- 
maica, Marquises  of  Antigua,  and  Earls  of  Barbadoes 
in  the  Upper  House,  as  the  slave  States  are  represent- 
ed in  Congress,  the  measure  would  never  have  been 
carried  to  this  day. 

During  my  stay  among  those  visionary  philanthro- 
pists, I  felt  astonished  at  the  confidence  displayed  by 
so  many  of  these  anti-slavery  speakers  and  writers,  not 
only  in  New  Hampshire  but  some  of  the  other  New 
England  States,  and  New  York  not  excepted.  The 
course  pursued  by  these  agitators  show  that  next  to  the 
positively  wicked,  alias  the  fanatic,  their  impractica- 
ble schemes  produce  the  most  mischievous  effects  in  so- 
ciety, as  it  is  known  to  every  man  of  common  recol- 
lection, that  before  the  year  1830,  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  the  planters  of  the  slave  States  were  in  the  hab- 
it of  regarding  slavery  as  a  moral  and  pi:)litical  evil, 
and  many  of  them  openly  proclaimed  it  to  be  so  in  the 
Virginia  debates  of  1831-2.  At  that  period  the  eman- 
cipation party  was  gradually  gaining  ground,  and  not 
unreasonable  hopes  were  entertained  that  the  States  of 
Kentuckv,  Virp-inia  and  Maryland  would  soon  fix  on 


!  :  '  '  ;•? 


r.MANcirAfio.N  or  f^LAvrnv. 


381 


some  future  day  for  the  manumission  of  their  slaves. — 
From  the  moment  the  abolition  movement  began,  and 
that  missionaries  were  sent  to  the  Southern  States,  a 
re-action  was  perceived,  because  the  pljfnters  took  the 
alarm,  laws  were  passed  against  education,  the  condi- 
tion of  the  slave  made  worse,  all  caused  by  the  inter- 
meddling of  these  visionary  characters. 

In  some  ol  the  New  England  States,  the  free  blacks 
have  votes  and  exert  their  privileges  at  elections;  yet 
there  is  not  an  instance  of  a  single  man  of  color,  al- 
thousjh  elijrible  bv  law,  having;  been  chosen  a  member 
of  the  State  Legislature,  or  any  other  oflTice  of  rank  or 
profit.     It  is  here  contended,  that  wherever  property 
confers  the  ricjht  of  votinj]^,  the  man  of  color   can  at 
once  be  admitted  without  danger,  t )  an  absolute  equal- 
ity of  political  rights;  the  more  industrious  alone  be- 
coming invested  with  privileges,  which  are  withheld 
from  the  indigent  and  most  worthless  of  the  race.     It 
is  further  held,  that  such  a  recognition  of  rights,  not 
only  raises  the  negroes  in  their  opinion  of  themselves, 
but  what  is  of  far  more  consequence,  accu  'r  ms  a  por- 
tion of  the  white  population  to  respect  them. 

After  being  frequently  lectured  by  these  persons  on 
the  subject  of  emancipation,  which  was  not  a  little  an- 
noying to  me,  in  their  attempts  to  convince  me  of  the 
high  capacities  and  claims  of  the  negro,  to  an  equal 
standing  in  the  scale  of  society,  several  opportunities 
presented  themselves,  whereb}^  I  could  test  the  consis- 
tency of  these  visionary  philanthropists,  who  would 
have  us  take  the  negro  by  the  hand,  and  lead  him  through 
this  vale  of  adversity,  love  him  as  wc  would  ourselves, 


i' 


m 

m 

/":hM\ 

, 

i 

i|l 

i 

'i  ''9(^H 

':»'KfH 

1 

*  u 

382 


eaUncipation  of  slavery. 


and  do  unto  him  as  we  would  wish  other  men  to  do  un- 
to us.  One  of  these  opportunities  was  presented  in  a 
Christian  church,  where  the  members  were  commemo- 
rating the  de^h  and  sufferings  of  Christ,  by  surround- 
ing the  Lord's  table.  The  officiating  minister,  by  ac- 
cident omitted  four  or  five  of  the  white  members,  which 
caused  the  order  and  sanctity  of  the  service  for  a  few 
moments  to  be  in  imminent  danger  of  beingtlisturbed. 
After  some  confusion  however,  the  officiating  minister 
proceeded,  by  showing  his  resolution  not  to  allow  any 
interruption  from  this  accident,  and  thus  stayed  the 
confusion  which  was  arising. 

This  furnished  me  with  a  new  proof  that  consisten- 
cy is  a  jewel,  find  it  where  you  will ;  and  that  these 
dreaming  philanthropists,  who  speak  in  such  glowing 
terms  of  the  negro,  are  at  the  same  time  separated  from 
him  by  a  chasm  as  wide  as  that  which  now  separates 
the  Southern  planter  from  the  slave,  and  that  he  is  here 
as  everywhere  else,  looked  upon  as  belonging  to  a  class 
a  little  lower  than  the  lowest.  It  takes  no  extraordi- 
nary stretch  of  the  mind  to  discover  that  these  philan- 
thropists are  conscious  of  the  lazy,  filthy,  vicious  and 
dishonest  creatures  they  inpvitably  become,  where  they 
are  not  held  in  bondage. 

The  hitelligence  the  people  of  New  England  are 
known  to  possess,  makes  the  doctrine  of  emancipation 
the  more  remarkable,  because  Canada  and  Ireland  teach 
us  how  much  time,  and  how  many  generations  are  re- 
quired for  the  blending  together,  on  terms  of  perfect 
equality,  both  social  and  political,  of  two  nations,  the 
conquerors  and  the  conquered  ;  even  where  both  are  of 


KMAXCITATION    of    5f,AVrTvY. 


383 


the  same  race  and  decidedly  equal  in  ther  natural  ca- 
pacities, though  differing  only  in  religion,  manners  and 
language.  But  when  we  have  in  the  same  communi- 
ty, two  races  so  distinct  in  their  physical  peculiarities, 
as  to  cause  n^jiny  naturalists  who  have  not  the  least  de- 
sire whatever  to  disparage  the  negro,  to  doubt  wheth- 
er both  are  of  the  same  species  and  started  originally 
from  the  same  stock.  In  part,  because  bondage  and 
barbarism  seems  to  be  their  destiny,  the  only  element 
ever  known  in  which  they  progressed  ;  a  destiny  from 
which  the  Ethiopian  race  has  furnished  no  exception  in 
any  country,  for  a  period  long  enough  to  constitute  an 
epoch,  as  it  is  almost  evident  that  the  only  idea  the  ne- 
gro has  of  liberty,  is  exemption  from  labor,  and  the 
privilege  to  be  idle,  vicious  and  dishonest ;  as  to  the 
mere  sentiments  of  liberty  and  the  elevated  conscious- 
ness df  equality,  they  are  certainly  incapable  of  the 
formet  and  for  the  latter,  no  such  equality  ever  did  ex- 
ist, and  in  my  opinion  never  will  exist ;  because  there 
is  a  line  which  cannot  be  passed  by  any  degree  of  tal- 
ent, virtue,  or  accomplishment,  by  them.  In  Africa, 
they  have  been  found  in  an  unprogressing  state,  have 
been  degraded  by  those  who  first  colonized  North  A- 
merica,  to  the  lowest  place  in  the  social  scale.  To  ex- 
pect under  such  a  combination  of  depressing  circum- 
stances, in  a  country  where  nearly  seven-eighths  ofthe 
race  are  still  held  in  bondage,  the  newly  emancipated 
citizen  should  under  an}'  form  of  government, attain  at 
once  a  position  of  real  equality  is  a  dream  of  these  vis- 
ionary philanthropists,  whose  impracticable  shemesare 
ten-fold  more  likely  lo  injiu:e4han  to  forward  ih?  caucc. 


IL  H 


-'II 


*: 


381 


r  A  N  A  T  1  C  »  . 


The  most    deluded  of  these  persons  are  the  faiialir, 
who  happily  for  our  country,  are  few  innunib'T  whi  n 
compared    to  their  more    nioderato  brethren  ;    thoufrh 
what  they  lack  in  numbers,  they  make  up  in  part  by 
their  untiring  energy  in  :-peaking,  writing  and  laying 
deep  and  dangerous  schemes:  and  so  perfectly  mad  is 
he  on  the  subject  of  slavery,  tbut  it  is  found  his  whole 
soul  is  so  filled  with  burning  gaul,  that  he  is  ever  seek- 
ing; an  opj)ortunity  to  spit  his  venom  on  the  South,  for 
the  purpose  of  withering  down  iier  institutions,  even 
at  the  very  hazard  of  shivering  into  fragment.-?,  our  glo- 
rious Union,  whose  lovely  i)(ttnier  is  the  admiration  (,( 
the  world.      But  enough  on  this   subject ;  as  it  is  not 
my  province  to  attempt  a  defence  of  the  institutions  ot 
the  South,  when  there  are  so  many  others  who  are  am- 
ply qualified  to  do  justice  to  the  cause.     The  remarks 
advanced  on  the  subject  may  be    called  prejudice  and 
should  it  he  prejudice,  I  have  the  consolatioii  of  know- 
ing that  I  am  not  alone,  as  it  is  a  well  known  fact,  that 
this  prejudice  exists  wherever  the  negro  may  be  found. 

Merrimnck  County.  On  my  way  to  the  Capital  of 
the  State,  I  passed  through  the  village  of  INIartins  Fer- 
ry, a  handsome  little  village,  5  miles  above  Manches- 
ter, and  the  village  of  Hooksett,  n  ntaining  a  popula- 
tion of  1175,  beautifully  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Merrimack  river,  8  miles  from  the  capital,  a  well 
built  village,  with  the  Nashville  and  Concord  Kailroad 
passing  through  it, — Robinson's  Ferry  4  miles  further 
north,  is  also  a  place  of  some  promise. 

Concord,  with  a  population  of  4,897,  is  t'.o  Capil;il 
of  the  State  :  il  i>!  V(^:v  bt'.nitifull.v  FJtnoied  onbotlisidi' 


CONCORD. 


38& 


or  the  Merrimack  rivrr,  65  milrs  from  its  mouth.  This 
splendid  little  town  is  principally  built  on  two  streets, 
running  nearly  due  east  and  west,  and  connected  by 
two  handsome  and  substantial  bridges  across  the  Mer- 
rimack river.  The  State  House  is  constructed  of  hewn 
granite,  and  is  an  elegant  edifice  of  126  feet  in  length, 
and  4-9  feet  deep,  and  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $80,- 
000.  The  State  Prison  is  a  strong  and  superb  granite 
structure,  70  leet  long  and  36  feet  wide. 

The  town  also  contains  several  handsome  and  sub* 
stantial  banking  houses,  some  elegant  churches  and  ho- 
tels. The  Falls  of  the  Merrimack  at  this  place,  cre- 
ate a  great  water-power,  which  is  advantageously  em- 
ployed in  propelling  machinery  of  various  kinds. 

The  Concord  railroad  connects  with  the  Boston  and 
Lowell  and  Nashville  and  Lowell  railroads,  making 
with  the  Concord  railroad,  a  distance  of  73  miles  be- 
twixt Boston  and  Concord.  This  railroad  also  con- 
nects on  the  north  with  the  Northern  railroad,  which 
is  now  in  operation  to  Lebanon,  a  distance  of  65  miles 
above  Concord,  on  the  direct  route  to  Montpelier  and 
Burlington,  in  the  State  of  Vermont.  I  now  returned 
to  Massachusetts  and  again  visited  Boston. 


•    I: 


17 


ggjjjjgjwwwsh, 


mc 


0  R  EV:  K      S  L  A  V  £■ 


C  U  A  P  T  E  U    XXXV. 

STATE  OF  IVIASSACinJSETTS, 

ft^ocond  arrival  in  Boston — Greek  Slave — Sunday  Scliooia — E- 
quality  of  persons — liorsos — Dorchester  lieights — Prospect — 
Quincy — Old  mansion  of  John  Adams — Unitarian  Churcli — 
Tomh  of  John  Adams — Quincy  Church- Yard — Tombcf  Julm 
Q.  Adams. 

On  my  return  fo  this  State,  after  a  visit  to  the  nian- 
iilacturing  towns  of  New  Hampshire,  I  returned  to  the 
city  of  Boston,  from  which  I  had  set  out.  At  this  place 
I  liad  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  Greek  Slave,  which 
is  represented  by  the  figure  of  a  beautiful  woman,  di- 
vested of  all  drapery  and  exposed  for  sale  manacled. 
Here  is  a  woman,  the  perfection  of  whose  form  is  de- 
signed to  express  the  ideal  beauty  and  purity  of  woman- 
hood }  but  not  only  a  woman  the  ideal  of  her  sex,  but  a 
Greek  woman,  a  Christian  woman,  nurtured  in  the  faith 
of  Him,  who  extended  a  hand  to  woman  and  called  her 
"daughter." 

As  I  entered  the  exhibition-room,  and  marked  first 
the  exquisite,  the  adorable  beauty  of  the  figure,  I  paus- 
ed involuntarily,  for  she  seemed  unapproachable  in  the 
divinity  of  her  perfect  loveliness ;  then  my  eye  fell  u\h 
on  her  manacles  and  chain  )  then  on  the  locket  and  the 
cross  hanging  from  the  column  at  her  side ;  next  I  glan- 
ced at  the  embroidered  cap  and  robe  at  her  side,  and  a- 
gain  at  the  manacles  on  her  soft  fair  hands.  I  saw  the 
proud  sadness  of  her  attitude,  tind  drew  near  with  pity 
which  bordered  on  awe  ;  then  I  looked  upon  that  face, 
grand  in  its  heroic  endurance,  divinely  beautiful  in  its 
purity  and  inexpressibly  mournful  in  its  sorrow,  which 


TrRfeEK     SLAVE. 


387 


at  first  caused  my  heart  to  beat  andibly,  and  the  tears 
to  spring  to  my  eyes  ;  and  for  a  moment  I  gazed  through 
a  mist  of  sad  but  most  exquisite  emotion. 

With  what  irrepressible  tenderness,  with  what  pity- 
ing human  love,  we  look  upon  this  glorious  creation  of 
a  true  artist's  soul,  the  measure  of  whose  fame  is  full, 
as  he  wrought  the  figure  as  perfect  no  doubt  as  mortal 
hand  could  make  it.  That  it  is  wrought  with  a  mechan- 
ical skill  almost  miraculous ;  that  the  arti'jt  here  shows 
himself  possessed  of  rare  power,  no  one  will  dare  to  de- 
ny, or  for  a  moment  question.  To  add  one  word  of 
praise  to  the  exalted  skill  of  Mr.  Powers,  is  not  within 
the  reach  of  my  pen  ;  the  most  that  I  can  say  is  that  I 
discover  in  the  figure  of  the  Greek  Slave,  divine  har- 
mony breath ir  j;  through  the  lines  of  beauty  ;  a  lofty 
poem,  which  writes  itself  on  the  gazer's  spirit ;  a  sub- 
lime tragedy  in  stone  ;  an  immortal  embodiment  of  wo- 
manhood triumphant  in  sorrow  and  degradation ;  torn 
forever  from  her  country,  its  faith  and  its  loves ;  chain- 
ed in  the  market-place  of  her  enemies,  all  disrobed  and 
awaiting  her  brutal  purchaser ;  yet  pure  as  a  seraph  and 
proud  as  a  crowned  queen ; — yet  unconquerably  con- 
stant to  her  love,  her  country  and  her  God.  Oh  what 
a  divinity  of  purity,  what  a  glory  of  womanhood  is 
round  about  her,  holier  than  the  halo  of  saints,  and  far 
more  mighty  than  the  panoply  of  warriors  ! 

It  is  a  little  remarkable  to  observe  the  reverential 
silence  in  the  presence  of  the  Greek  Slave.  No  one 
speaks  above %a  whisper;  and  many  gaze  with  hushed 
breath  and  tearful  eyes,  in  a  dreamy  trance  of  admira- 
tion, in  a  full,  deep  f>njoyment  of  a  new  and  delicious 


ill  I  si 


588 


GRl^EK     SLAVE» 


Bens^tion.  The  face  is  very  beautiful,  very  tender  and 
Very  womanly,  though  bearing  faintly  the  stern  im- 
press of  misiortune  ;  the  mournful  tracery  of  bereave- 
ments, iears  and  wrongs ;  as  deeply  felt  as  bravely  en- 
dured. By  the  embroidered  cap  and  robe  at  her  side, 
as  well  as  by  the  exquisite  delicacy  of  her  hands,  we 
may  know  the  maiden  is  noble,  and  that  luxury  and 
honyage  have  waited  upon  her  steps  from  infancy. — 
Then  how  fearful  this  bondage,  and  this  exposure  ;  man- 
acles on  those  fair  hands  and  the  gaze  of  vulgar  eyes 
upon  that  Unrobed  patrician  form,  more  torturing  than 
barbed  arrows  dipt  in  poison.  But  this  woman,  the 
daughter  of  Greece,  whose  features  discloie  her  line- 
age, the  doomed  slave  of  the  Turk,  the  dreaded  enemy 
of  her  religion  and  her  race.  Yet  the  noble  daughter 
dF  Greece  is  represented  by  this  celebrated  statue,  to 
conquer  all  her  agony,  and  hide  it  in  the  recesses  of 
her  bosom,  and  to  exhibit  an  angelic  resignation  5  and 
with  the  sublime  bearing  of  a  great  soul,  forgets  her  own 
sorrow  in  that  of  those  she  loves.  But  she  is  dragged 
far  away  from  her  brave  and  struggling  country.  Per- 
chance she  sees  her  sire  vainly  pouring  out  his  life's- 
blood  tot  its  lost  liberties, — Or  perhaps  she  re/isits  in 
spirit  her  desolate  home,  where  her  mother  grieves 
ceaselessly  for  the  child  she  can  no  longer  fold  to  her 
breast,  whose  return  the  old  look  not  for,  and  whose 
name  little  children  speak  mournfully. 

The  Greek  Slave  is  perhaps  the  most  sublime  work 
of  art  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  It  faithfully  expresses 
the  idea  it  prolesses  to  represent.  It  also  addresses  it- 
self with  great  power  to  the  sense  of  the  beautiful ;  but 


SUNDAY     SCHOOLS. 


389 


f' 


it  appeals  still  more  powerlully  to  our  purest  senti- 
ments, breaking  up  all  the  hidden  fountains  of  our  most 
sacred  sympathies.  It  awakens  in  us  a  new  and  god- 
like pity,  and  we  come  away  from  it  with  a  new  sense 
ol  the  sacredness  of  womanhood  and  of  woman's  unut- 
terable wrongs,  when  she  is  thus  made  a  victim  and  a 
slave,  and  that  flower  of  heaven  is  flung  down  to  be 
trampled  upon  by  the  miry  hoof  of  sensuality.  In  fine, 
it  acts  upon  us  with  a  sanctifying  and  regenerating 
power ;  we  feel  as  if  we  had  been  listening  not  merely 
to  a  sermon,  but  to  a  sermon  of  unequal  pathos  expres- 
sed in  the  enduring  marble.  As  a  work  where  purity 
and  beauty  of  form  are  manifested  in  a  high  degree,  all 
are  compelled  to  admire  this  statue,  which  is  sufficient 
to  kindle  the  soul  of  every  beholder  into  a  very  high 
degree  of  enthusiasm. 

The  next  object  I  deemed  worthy  of  notice  on  my 
return  to  this  great  city,  was  tht»  Sunday  Schools,  which 
however,  is  not  confined  to  the  city ;  but  the  system 
prevails  throughout  the  State.  Almost  every  church, 
not  only  in  the  city  of  Boston,  but  in  the  country,  is 
constructed  with  a  basement  storv,  finished  oflT  for  the 
expressed  purpose  of  Sabbath  Schools.  This  department 
ot  the  church  is  furnished  with  maps,  charts,  diagrams, 
paintings,  and  the  necessary  furniture  thereto  belong- 
ing. It  is  truly  cheering  to  visit  these  Sunday  Schools, 
and  observe  the  prospering  condition  and  excellent 
system  of  juvenile  instruction,  not  only  of  one  or  two 
sects,  but  all  the  different  denominations,  who  are  nu- 
merous enough  to  aflford  a  church.  It  is  no  less  cheer- 
ing,  to  observe  the  progress  the  diflTerent  classes  are  ma* 


I  : 


-ti 


k: 


: :  I. 


^I- 


390 


«  U  N  D  A  V      SCHOOLS. 


king  in  their  respective  departments  of  learning.  Ev- 
ery class  delights  the  stranger  with  the  correct  and  as- 
tonishing answers  they  make  to  the  interrogations  of 
their  respective  teachers,  not  only  in  the  various  sci- 
ences, but  hii^h  and  weighty  questions  in  the  Scriptures. 

Every  Sunday  School  has  a  Chairman  and  Secreta- 
ry ;  the  latter  keeping  a  record  of  the  whole  proceed- 
ing ot  the  school,  and  rewards  the  scholar  with  tick- 
ets, pamphlets,  a  fancy  newspaj.er,  or  a  magazine  of 
plates,  in  proportion  to  the  task.  In  addition  to  the  r,- 
bove  rewards  for  industry,  on  certain  occasions  the  vic- 
tor receives  a  premium,  and  on  still  more  important  oc- 
casions, there  is  a  medal  awarded  to  the  victor.  The 
school  usually  closes  by  a  short  address  by  the  Chair- 
man, in  which  he  generally  tells  an  amusing  anecdote, 
and  in  some  instances  reads  a  report  of  some  other  Sun- 
day School,  by  him  received  during  the  preceding 
week,  which  has  a  tendency  to  stimulate  an  energy  in 
the  school.  This  little  congregation  of  urchins  no  less 
delight  the  stranger  with  their  vocal  music,  which  is 
performed  with  such  precision,  as  to  throw  many  a 
worshipping  congregation  into  the  shade. 

While  visiting  these  flourishing  institutions,  and  see- 
ing the  good  effects  they  produced  on  the  juvenile  pop- 
ulation, mv  mind  was  drawn  back  to  those  denuncia- 
tions  I  had  frequently  heard  against  Sunday  Schools. 
I  would  have  been  gratified  to  have  had  some  ot  those 
objectors  with  me,  especially  those  who  say,  (to  use 
their  own  language,)  "that  Sunday  Schools  are  the  cause 
of  grinding  the  Methodist  doctrine  into  children,  that 
it  will  never  be  got  out  of  them  in  the  world."     It  is 


he  and  anoti: 


S  iJ  N  O  A  Y      b  t;  11  O  U  L  » 


34 1 


evident  these  same  person^;  woulil  have  bocumo  thor- 
oughly convinced,  that  it  is  iar  better  to  give  the  Meth- 
odists, or  any  other  Christian  denomination,  an  oppor- 
tunity of  grinding  their  doctrine  into  children,  than 
to  run  about  the  highways  and  streets,  vi'here  they  have 
ample  opportunities  of  having  not  only  the  various 
shades  of  mischief,  but  also  a  draught  of  brandy  ground 
into  them. 

It  is  somewhat  strange,  to  find  that  the  sympathies  of 
the  whole  people  can  be  other  than  with  the  Sunday 
Schools.  For  my  own  part,  I  think  I  am  .safe  in  ad- 
vancing, that  the  noble  Sunday  School  systems  of  Mas- 
sachusetts, are  the  cause  of  impressing  more  religious 
truths  on  the  youthful  minds  of  the  juvenile  popula- 
tion, and  ten  per  cent  more  indelible,  than  the  religious 
truths  impressed  on  the  minds  of  the  adult  population, 
by  all  the  sermons  and  admonitions  from  the  pulpit,  in 
the  same  length  of  time,  though  attended  with  the  most 
profound  reasoning  and  thrilling  eloquence.  There- 
fore, I  for  one,  would  say  to  the  Presidents  of  these  no- 
ble institutions,  go  on  in  the  great  cause  proclaimed  by 
a  wise  and  mighty  King,  "train  up  a  child  in  the  way 
he  should  go,  and  when  he  is  old  he  will  not  depart 
from  it." 

During  my  tour  through  various  sections  of  the  State, 
I  observed  that  equality  was  a  conspicious  characteris- 
tic of  the  population.  In  the  city  of  Boston,  an  in- 
stance occurred  which  I  deemed  worthy  of  noting. — 
In  one  of  the  Courts  of  Boston,  a  witness,  and  by  no 
means  an  ignorant  one,  stated  on  evidence,  that  while 
he  and  another  gentleman  were  shovelling  up  mud,  ho 


i 


*    'I 


wM 

, 

t1 

li|:i 

ij'Mkji.'      1 

IsrJ  1 

ti\f^*t 


DOReilESTEIt   HKICTfTS. 


saw  the  prisoner  throw  the  brick-bat  at  the  policeman, 
&€.,  from  which  it  appears  that  the  spirit  ol  social  e- 
quality  has  left  no  other  signification  to  the  terms  gen- 
tlemen and  lady,  but  that  of  male  and  female  individual. 
Boston  is  famous  for  its  excellent  horses,  and  espe- 
cially its  draught  horses,  which  are  large,  active,  and 
possess  great  muscular  power ;  the  finest  I  seen  during 
my  tour,  even  exceeding  the  famous  draught  horse  of 
Canada,  in  beauty  and  strength,  but  perhaps  inferior  on 
the  score  of  activity  to  that  noble  animal.     The  Boston 
drayman  has  his  horse  harnessed  in  the  most  excellent 
manner,  being  also  ornamented  with  six  or  eight  bells, 
two  of  which  are  attached  to  the  bridle,  and  the  re- 
mainder are  fastened  to  a  belt  girded  round  the  horse. 
From  four  to  six  of  these  fine  animals  may  be  seen  pla- 
ced one  before  the  other,  stepping  off  in  great  pride 
under  the  sound  of  their  jingling  bells.     The  driver 
guides  the  shaft  horse  only,  by  means  of  lines  in  the  u- 
sual  way,  the  others  being  under  the  control  of  his  voice. 
Norfolk  county,     Dorchester  Heights, — The  fort 
which  crowns  this  memorable  height,  is  the  scene  of  an 
important  chapter  in  the  history  of  our  Revolution. — 
This  height  was  fortified  by  order  of  Washington,  after 
the  bloody  battle  of  Bunker-Hill,  as  the  summit  of  Dor- 
chester commanded  the  harbor  and  city  j  a  step  which 
he  knew  must  bring  on  a  general  action  with  the  be- 
seiged  British,  who  soon  found  that  the  city  could  not 
be  held  unless  the  Americans  were  dislodged,  which 
the  British  commander  undertook  with  great  spirit ;  but 
a  tremendous  storm  made  such  havoc  among  his  trans- 
ports as  to  compel  him  to  suspend  operations  \  and  af< 


Q  U  1  N  C  Y  . 


393 


t^r  a  couicil  of  war  the  city  was  evacuated  by  the  Brit- 
ish embarking  for  Halifax  in  Nova  Scotia. 

The  view  of  Boston  from  these  heights  is  very  com- 
manding. The  bay,  with  its  fortified  islands  stretch- 
ing away  to  the  right,  is  very  grand  and  beautiful  from 
its  shape  and  from  the  brightness  of  its  water  ;  the  city 
clustering  upon  its  heights,  rising  in  graceful  lines  to 
the  summit,  which  is  crowned  with  the  State  House, 
whose  pinnacled  cupola  is  the  admiration  of  the  New 
England  States.  The  country  to  the  left  is  all  that  is 
lovely  in  cultivation  ;  sprinkled  here  and  there  with 
the  most  gay  and  flourishing  villages.  Look  almost 
where  you  may  from  this  commanding  height,  you  be- 
hold the  suburbs  of  the  'granite  city,'  sparkling  with 
villas  on  every  hillside  within  the  horizon. 

Quincy,  with  a  population  of  3486,  situated  8  miles 
from  Boston,  is  celebrated  for  the  birth  and  residence 
of  the  Adams  family.  The  residence  of  the  late  John 
Q.  Adams  is  a  large,  venerable  looking  mansion,  in  the 
background  of  which  yet  stands  the  old  homestead, 
which  has  the  power  of  exciting  very  imposing  feel- 
ings, although  but  an  old  building  ]  but  its  inmates  are 
so  thoroughly  interwoven  with  our  past  history,  that 
this  reverence  is  easily  accounted  for.  In  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  this  are  the  elegant  buildings  belongs 
ing  to  Charles  F.  Adams. 

The  next  object  of  interest  is  the  Unitarian  Church, 
under  the  walls  of  which  is  buried  the  illustrious  John 
Adams.  On  the  right  of  the  pulpit,  as  you  enter  the 
Church,  is  a  tablet  of  beautiful  white  marble,  with  a 
handsome  inscription  to  his  memory  j  the  tablet  is  sur-* 


i:\i 


ii  ii 


> 


t-  l:f 


I 


II 


3:)4. 


TOML  OF  JOltN  <2.  ADAM."?. 


mountod  by  a  IjusI  cjI"  the  sterling  patriot,  whose  ashe^ 
are  slunibiTiiiir  beneath.  Bv  his  side  lie  the  remains 
of  his  rejimrUahle  wile,  to  the  memory  of  whom  the  old 
liomaiis  would  undoubtedly  have  raised  a  statue,  with- 
out the  least  fear  of  countenancing  woman's  rights  to 
any  dangerous  extent. 

The  Quincy  churchyard  contains  the  grave  of  the 
venerable  John  Q.  Adams,  which  is  distinguished  only 
b}'  a  plain  granite  structure,  vyith  no  monument  and 
no  tablet ;  bearing  only  the  letters  raised  on  the  stone, 
the  name  J.  Q.  Adams,  his  birth,  age  and  death  ;  all 
severely  simple  and  purely  republican  as  the  character 
and  life  of  the  brave  patriot,  the  conscientious  states- 
man and  humble-hearted  Christian,  whose  ashes  repose 
beneath  its  shelter. 

As  I  stood  by  this  plain  and  simple  tomb,  many  of 
the  events  connected  with  the  life  of  its  illustrious  but 
now  slumbering  inmate,  passed  in  rapid  review  before 
me.  I  of  course  first  thought  of  the  death  of  the  states- 
man, who  in  that  hour  when  full  of  honors  and  years, 
was  stricken  down  in  the  national  halls,  like  a  star 
struck  suddenly  from  the  blue  vault  of  heaven.  When 
upon  his  dying  lips  lingered  the  words,  "this  is  the  last 
of  earth,  I  am  content ;"  and  a  sublime  faith  bearing  up 
his  soul,  he  waited  in  God's  love,  the  swift,  silent  com- 
ing of  the  angel  of  death,  in  the  same  halls  which  3'ears 
before  had  oftimes  echoed  with  the  voice  of  his  fervid 
and  impassioned  eloquence. 

Next  came  rushing  over  my  mind,  his  patient  indus- 
try and  lofty  ambition,  in  gathering  together  and  hoard- 
ing up  all  varieties  of  knowledge }  of  the  high  and 


lands,  whi( 


tow      LANDS. 


3i)9 


.stainless  morality  of  a  life,  beset  by  many  and  peculiar 
temptations;  of  all  that  grand  and  beautiful  display  in 
the  councils  ot  our  nation,  \#fiorc  he  stood  a  conspici- 
ous  star  in  the  history  of  the  Republic,  at  times  attend- 
ed by  sunshine  playing  around  him,  at  other  times 
storms  beat  heavily  upon  his  way,  as  he  made  himself 
dearer  and  dearer  to  his  country.  When  1  again  ga^ 
zed  upon  the  simple  resting  place  of  the  illustrious  ex- 
president,  whose  greatneas  belongs  to  our  country  for- 
ever, a  legacy  grand,  benutiful,  pric<'less  ond  imperish* 
r>ble. 


C  H  A  P  T  E  R    X  X  X  V  1 . 

Low  Lands — Towns — Plymouth — When  founded — liock  of  l')}- - 
mouLli — Remark — Piliriim  Hall — Contrast  hctwcen  NorLli  and 
South  America — Capo  Cod — Barnstable — Yarmouth — Mji r- 
tha's  Vineyard — Edfrarton — Wine  Grapes — C ny head — G recn 
Land — Shell — Shark  Teeth — Indians — Sea  Breeze — I*onds — 
Spotted  Tortoise — Vineyard  Sound — K'nvj;  Crab. 

Plymoidh  county.  On  my  way  from  Quincy  tothi.«: 
county,  I  passed  through  a  considerable  body  of  low 
lands,  which  however,  are  rendered  valuable  l)y  drain- 
ing and  the  excellent  mode  of  cultivation.  On  the 
Old  Colony  railroad  are  the  towns  of  Wymouth,  Nu- 
poset,  Baintree,  North  Abington,  Abington  Centre. 
South ^Bamtree,  South  Abington,  North  Hanson,  South 
Hanson,  Halifax,  Plympton  and  Kingston,  contnining 
each  from  1000  to  4000  inhabitants,  "all  beisi'ji:  siluaKxl 
With  the  hiccbest  resrard  to  location,  some  of  them  near 


!iH^  ( 


.:t 


i     ;' 


hji 


39G 


r  r,  Y  M  o  u  T  H . 


the  old  town  of  Plymouth,  a  place  memorahle  as  the 
region  first  colonized  by  our  Pilgrim  Fathers, 

Plymouth,  with  a  popufction  of  f>,281,  is  very  beau- 
tifully situated  on  Plymouth  bay,  37  miles  southeast  of 
Boston,  celebrated  as  the  oldest  town  in  New  England. 
This  venerable  old  town  was  founded  as  early  as  1G20, 
and  possesses  raany  objects  of  great  interest  for  so  small 
a  town ;  at  the  head  of  which  may  be  named  the  ever 
memorable  Rock  of  Plymouth,  on  which  landed  our 
Pilgrim  Fathers,  on  the  22d  of  December,  1620.  The 
Rock  was  removed  to  the  centre  of  the  town,  in  the 
year  1774,  and  is  now  protected  by  a  handsome  rail- 
ing. The  day  on  which  I  visited  this  venerable  old 
town  was  warm  and  pleasant,  and  the  many  touching 
and  glorious  associations  of  the  place  came  thronging 
upon  my  mind.  It  was  with  no  small  delight  that  I 
gazed  upon  the  ever  memorable  Rock  of  Plymouth, 
rendered  hallowed  by  the  footsteps  of  oup  Pilgrim  Fa- 
thers, whfle  I  felt  my  gratitude  warming  for  what  our 
ancestors  have  done  for  our  happiness,  which  is  also 
reaching  forward  to  our  posterity,  and  meets  them  with 
cordial  salutation,  ere  they  have  arrived  pn  the  shore 
of  being. 

It  was  with  no  small  pride  that  I  viewed  hereon  the 
shore  pf  the  Atlantic,  the  Rock  on  which  commenced 
our  greatness,  ^^hich  has  been  carried  with  a  great 
voice  of  acclamation  ^nd  gjratitude  over  the  whole 
breadth  of  the  land,  till  it  has  lost  itself  in  the  murmurs 
of  the  Pacific  seas.  Thus  large  has  grown  the  mighty 
tree  of  Liberty,  under  whose  balmy  boughs  the  perse-r 
cpted  of  every  clime  are  prote.cte^.     A  voice  coipmen- 


r  I^  V  M  O  U  T  l|  , 


397 


cing  on  the  Rock  of  Plymouth,  and  yet  resounding  o- 
ver  the  earth,  which  is  to  bid  them  welcome  to  this 
pleasant  land  of  the  Pilgrim  PVhers  ;  which  bids  them 
welcome  to  the  healthful  skies  and  the  verdant  fields 
of  the  American  Union  j  which  bids  them  welcome  to 
the  blessings  of  good  government  and  religious  liberty  ; 
which  bids  them  welcome  to  the  treasures  of  science 
and  the  delights  of  learning  ;  which  bids  them  welcome 
to  the  transcendent  sweets  ot  domestic  life,  to  the  hap- 
piness of  kindred,  and  parents  and  children;  which 
bids  them  welcome  to  the  immeasurable  blessings  of 
rational  existence,  the  imnriortal  hope  of  Christianity 
and  the  light  of  eternal  Truth. 

The  next  object  of  attraction  is  the  Pilgrim  Hall,  Bt 
rected  for  the  Pjlgr^m  Society,  in  the  year  1820,  or 
just  two  hundred  years  aller  the  landing  of  the  Pil- 
grim Fathers.  The  Hall  is  a  neat  and  beautiful  edi- 
fice, containing  an  admirable  painting  of  the  landing  of 
the  Pilgrims,  as  ^y ell  as  a  cabinet  of  rare  and  valuable 
curiosities.  While  viewing  this  painting,  my  mind 
was  again  drawn  to  the  great  progress  of  our  country.. 
IJad  Spain  colonized  this  region,  flow  different  would 
have  been  her  career  of  civilization,  and  how  deploira- 
ble  her  coi^ditipn,  for  we  find  that  nation  declining  un- 
der the  most  favorable  circumstance^,  as  South  Ameri- 
ca affords  a  rich  sojl,  a  climate  adapted  to  the  produc- 
tion of  every  th^ng  ^yl^icJl  grows  ov^t  of  the  e^rth,  and 
possessing  in  gveai  abundance,  every  metal  used  by 
man. — While  Massachusetts  was  settle^  by  a  few  poor 
Pilgrims,  who  were  brought  hither  by  their  high  ven- 
eration for  the  Christian  religion,  and  who  carried  no- 


m: 


398 


•  •  A  r  i:    c  u  1) » 


thinf^  with  Ihcm  but  their  own  hardy  virtues  and  in- 
doniitable  enorgy,  and  fouml  tho  region  with  a  sterile 
soil,  an  ungcnial  climate,  and  no  sin«:^!e  article  for  ex- 
portation but  ice  and  granite  rock.  How  have  the  bles- 
sings profusely  given  by  Providence  been  improved  on 
the  one  hand,  and  the  obstach^s  overcome  on  tho  otluM-' 
What  a  wholesale  contrast  is  here  presented  !  Look 
at  the  anarchy,  poverty,  misery  and  degradation  on  tho 
one  hand,  and  the  productive  industry,  wide-spread 
diffusion  of  knowledge,  public  institutions  of  every 
kind,  general  happiness,  and  continually  increasing 
prosperity  in  letters,  arts,  morals,  religion,  and  in  eve- 
ry thing  which  makes  a  people  great ;.  and  so  far  as  my 
information  extends,  I  am  warranted  in  asserting  there 
is  not  in  tho  world,  and  there  never  did  exist,  such  a 
commonweal ih  as  Massachusetts. 

I  now  sailed  on  board  a  steamboat  for  Barnstable,  on 
Cape  Cod,  a  distance  of  30  miles.  The  Cape  forms  the 
county  of  Barnstable.  Cape  Cod  extends  far  into  the 
Atlantic  in  tho  form  of  a  crescent  or  half  circle,  there- 
by bounding  on  the  south  the  deep  and  celebrated  bay 
of  Massachusetts.  The  city  of  Barnstable  contains  a 
population  of  4-311,  situated  on  the  same  great  bay. — 
That  portion  of  it  however,  on  which  the  town  is  situ* 
ated,  is  called  Cape  Cod  bay.  On  the  southern  shore 
of  the  Cape  is  the  town  of  Yarmouth,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  2554^,  situated  4  miles  from  Barnstable,  which 
distance  is  the  only  ^^'idth  of  the  Cape  at  this  place. 
These  two  towns  are  largely  engaged  in  the  fisheries, 
in  proportion  to  their  population.  A  steamboat  now 
carried  us  to  Martha's  Vin('vard,  a  distance  of  i24  or  25 


MARTIIA*S    VINEYAIII). 


399 


miles.  The  island  of  Martha's  Vineyard  is  situated  80 
milcd  south  of  Jioston,  and  about  25  miles  south  of  the 
southern  coast  of  the  State.  Thi§  island,  like  the  pe- 
ninsula of  Nova  bccWia,  is  tiimons  for  its  fossils.  The 
principal  town  is  Edgarlr'n,  with  apop\i]ationof  1730, 
situated  near  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  island,  which 
is  about  20  miles  long  from  east  to  W('st.  The  town 
])ossesses  few  objects  of  attraction,  unless  you  would 
call  fish  and  oysters,  together  with  scores  of  dirty,  grea- 
sy and  filthy  looking  fishermen,  objects  of  attraction. 

I  did  not  find  this  island  so  famous  for  wine-grapes 
as  I  expected,  judging  from  the  glowing  descriptions 
given  of  the  place.  In  this  respect,  it  has  no  stronger 
claims  than  the  southern  coast  of  the  State,  where  not 
only  the  grape  but  the  various  vines  grow  as  luxuriant- 
ly as  they  do  on  the  island  itself,  which  is  by  no  means 
to  so  great  an  extent  as  is  usually  supposed. 

Gayhead,  a  famous  cliff  of  200  feet  high,  situated  at 
the  western  end  of  the  island,  is  the  chief  object  of  in- 
terest, where  the  highly-inclined  strata  arc  gaily  color- 
ed ;  some  consisting  of  bright  red  clays,  others  of  white, 
yellow  and  green  sand,  and  som«j  of  black  lignite. — 
This  section  of  strata  is  about  four-filths  of  a  mile  in 
length  ;  the  beds  dipping  to  the  north  and  east,  at  an 
anerle  of  from  35  to  45  dej^rees.  The  bed  of  p;reen  sand 
contains  shells,  teeth  of  large  shark,  and  the  remains  of 
the  dolphin  and  of  a  whale  of  great  size,  and  teeth  of 
the  seal.  In  the  same  cliff,  in  some  of  the  other  strata 
may  be  found  numerous  nodules  of  the  shape  of  kidney 
potato„es,*from  one  to  two  inches  in  diameter,  and 
smoother  externally  than  an  egg  ;  and  I  was  informed 


'W\V 


i 


ii 


i^  il 


i.;'!;^i 


400 


INDIANS. 


when  analysed  they  have  been  found  to  contain  no  less 
than  50  per  cent  of  phosphate  of  lime. 

On  the  island  is  a  small  settlementof  Indians,  a  rem- 
nant of  ithe  aborigines  who  have  been  protected  by  the 
government  of  Massachusetts,  yet  all  sales  of  land  by 
them  to  the  whites  js  null  and  void  by  law.  These  In- 
dians are  said  to  maj^e  excellent  sailors  in  the  whale- 
fishery  of  the  South  Seas,  $  source  of  great  wealth  to 
the  inhabitants  of  Martha's  Vineyard,  These  resident 
Indians  are  very  intelligent  and  well  clothed  j  and  I 
could  not  discover  that  the  vice  of  drunkenness  pre- 
vailed among  them,  which  evil  I  observed  among  the 
remnants  of  some  other  tribes  during  ifiy  tour.  The 
<>ccupation  of  the  sailor  in  the  whale-fishery,  with  all 
its  privalions  and  dangers,  seems  admirably  suited  to 
the  bodily  constitution  and  hereditary  instinct  of  a  hunt- 
ing tribe,  to  whom  steady  and  continuous  labor  is  irk- 
some and  injurious. 

The  Island  contains  fine  timber  and  good  water,  both 
spring  and  well ;  and  is  also  famous  for  its  sea  breeze, 
which  is  quite  salubrious  and  bracing  to  the  constitur 
tions  of  persons  who  may  remain  for  a  few  weeks  or  a 
month.  The  Island  also  contains  numerous  ponds  of 
fresh  w.^ter,  which  are  filled  with  frogs  and  turtles,  and 
among  them  some  spotted  tortoises,  with  red  heads, 
which  at  times  may  be  seen  travelling  from  one  pond 
of  water  to  another.  The  Vineyard  Sound  contains  as 
many  novelties  as  the  fresh-water  ponds ;  for  here  may 
be  seen  large  specimens  of  the  King  Crab,  crawling  a- 
bout  in  the  salt-water  pools,  left  by  the  sea  on  the  re- 
tiring of  the  tide,  which  is  a  novelty  calculated  to  at- 


STATB   OF    RHODE    ISLIND. 


401 


i^ 


tract  the  notice  of  the  stranger,  especially  when  these 
pools  are  surrounded  by  a  troop  of  boyp,  who  make  a 
great  deal  of  sport  in  tormenting  the  King  Crab  and 
turtle,  which  sport  is  generally  brought  to  a  close  by 


killing  the  turtles. 


i'  = 


CHAPTER    XXXVI  I. 

STATB  or  RHODB  ISLAND. 

Aspect  of  tho  Southern  part  of  the  State — Newport — Harbour— 
Fortifications — Fisheries — Narragansett  bay — Mount  Hope— 
K  ing  Philip — Warwick — Providence — Harbour — State-house 
— Dexter  Asylum — Friends  Academy — Arcade — Brown  Uni- 
versity— Athenaeum — Churches — Roger  Williams — Manu- 
factures— Railroads — Btackstone  Canal — Towns. 

On  arriving  within  the  southern  boundary  ol  this 
State,  from  Martha's  Vineyard,  I  found  it  to  consist  of 
almost  as  much  water  as  dry  land.  Those  of  the  isl- 
ands of  the  State  which  we  sailed  in  sight  of,  are  rich 
and  highly  cultivated,  and  especially  the  beautiful  isl- 
and  of  Rhode  Island,  more  properly  called  Newport 
Island,  is  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  cultivated  appear-* 
ance,  abounding  in  smooth  swells  and  being  divided 
with  great  uniformity  into  well  tilled  lields. 

JVewport  county.  The  city  of  Newport,  with  a  pop 
ulation  of  8,333,  is  very  beautifully  situated  on  the 
southwest  extremity  ot  this  delightful  and  highly  cul- 
tivated Island,  and  is  particularly  famous  for  the  sum- 
mer resort  of  the  wealthy  from  all  parts  of  the  United 
States,  on  account  of  its  pleasant  situation,  the  refresh-* 


40:^ 


MOUNT  HOPE KING  rUILir. 


ing  coolness  of  the  sea  breezes,  and  its  great  advanta- 
ges lor  sea-bathing  ;  it  being  situated  14"  miles  from  the 
Atlantic. 

The  harbour  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world  ;  beins; 
safe,  capacious  and  easy  of  access,  and  is  defended  by 
two  great  forts,  Wolcott  and  Adams,  erected  by  the  U- 
nited  States  government.  The  city  is  extensively  en- 
gaged in  commerce,  and  many  of  its  inhabitants  em- 
ployed in  the  fisheries,  which  is  a  source  of  great  wealth. 
This  place  is  by  far  the  most  beautiful  to  be  engaged 
in  the  fisheries,  of  any  I  saw  during  my  tour,  as  many 
of  the  other  great  fishing  towns  were  frequently  not 
only  soiled  by  them,  but  rendered  disagreeable  by  their 
smell,  which  was  by  no  means  the  case  with  this  place. 
Newport  is  also  celebrated  for  the  birth  of  Gilbert  Stu- 
art, the  far-famed  portrait  painter,  and  of  Melbone,  so 
celebrated  for  his  miniatures. 

In  sailing  up  the  Narragansett  bay  about  9  miles, 
landed  us  at  the  city  of  Bristol,  containing  a  popula- 
tion of  34'90,  in  a  county  of  the  same  name.  The  city 
id  situated  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  bay,  and  is  quite 
a  flourishing  place,  actively  engaged  in  the  foreign  and 
coasting  trade,  and  whale  fisheries.  The  town  is  a  ve- 
ry pleasant  one,  containing  many  handsome  dwellings 
and  several  beautiful  churches. 

Mount  Hope,  near  the  city,  is  celebrated  as  having 
been  the  residence  of  the  famous  King  Philip,  Sachem 
of  the  Wampanoag  tribe  of  Indians,  the  grandson  and 
successor  of  the  celebrated  Massasoit,  who  fifly  years 
before  the  depredations  of  Philip,  had  made  a  treaty 
with  the  Plymouth  colony.     The  place  consists  only 


,  Jl 


•si 


PROVIDENCE. 


403 


oi  a  hill  of  no  great  height,  and  is  no  lcs3  celebrated 
for  the  death  ol  this  terrible  chief,  whoso  transcendant 
abilities  are  handed  down  to  the  people  of  Rhode  Isl- 
and, who  assert  that  the  advantage  of  civilized  educa- 
tion and  a  wider  theatre  of  action,  would  have  made 
the  name  of  Philip  as  memorable  as  that  of  Alexander 
or  Caesar.  , 

la  two  hours  our  boat  again  sailed  up  the  bay,  and 
touched  at  Warwick,  which  contains  a  population  of 
6,726,  situated  on  the  western  shore  of  the  bay,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Pawtuxet  river,  which  is  a  city  extensive- 
ly engaged  in  manufacturing.  The  river  above  this 
place  has  a  sufficient  fall  to  create  a  vast  water-power, 
which  is  economically  applied  to  manufacturing  pur- 
poses.    The  town  is  also  famous  for  its  fish. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  place,  we  arrived  at  the  city 
of  Providence,  with  a  population  of  23,181,  being  the 
second  city  in  New  England  in  point  of  wealth  and 
population,  it  being  the  Capital  of  the  State.  The  ci- 
ty is  divided  into  two  nearly  equal  parts  by  the  Provi- 
dence river,  so  called,  more  properly  the  head  of  Nar- 
ragansett  bay,  where  it  receives  the  Mooshasuck  river. 
The  city  is  connected  by  two  bridges  which  are  thrown 
over  the  river,  near  the  head  of  tide  water.  The  town 
is  situated  35  miles  from  the  Atlantic,  and  can  be  ap- 
proached with  the  largest  ships.  The  harbour  is  excel- 
lent, animated  by  sailors  of  all  sorts  and  sizes.  Steam- 
boats of  the  largest  and  finest  class,  keep  up  a  daily 
communication  with  New  York  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  year. 

Th^  State  House,  constructed  of  brick,  is  a  splendid 


rli 


■^r    1^ 


404 


PROVIDENCE. 


edifice  for  its  size.  The  Dexter  Asylum  for  the  poor 
of  the  city,  is  a  massive  structure  of  brick,  three  sto- 
ries high,  170  feet  long  and  45  feet  wide.  The  Friends 
Academy  or  boarding  school,  is  another  spacious  struc- 
ture of  brick. 

The  Arcade,  finished  in  1828,  at  the  expense  of 
$130,000,  is  the  most  spacious  and  splendid  building 
in  the  city.  It  occupies  the  whole  space  between  two 
streets,  being  226  feet  in  length  and  72  feet  in  width. 
The  body  of  the  edifice  is  built  of  split  stone,  covered 
with  cement.  It  contains  two  fronts  of  hammered  gran- 
ite, 72  ieet  wide,  presenting  colonnades  of  the  pure 
Doric  style  of  six  columns  each.  These  columns  are 
25  feet  in  height,  the  shaAs  being  22  feet  in  length, 
and  each  of  a  single  block. 

Brown  University,  which  takes  its  name  from  Nich- 
olas Brown*  ol  the  city,  who  was  its  most  munificent 
benefactor,  is  the  second  building  in  size  and  elegance 
in  the  city.  It  consists  of  two  splendid  halls,  built  of 
brick,  four  stories  high,  150  feet  long  and  48  feet  wide. 
This  University  was  founded  in  Warren,  in  1764,  and 
removed  to  Providence  in  1770,  andiias  now  an  ex- 
tensive philosophical  apparatus,  and  a  library  of  more 
than  14,000  volumes;  in  a  word,  the  University  is  in  a 
very  flourishing  condition  under  its  present  learned  head. 

The  Athenaeum,  a  massive  granite  structure,  occu-? 
pies  an  excellent  site  and  was  founded  in  1836.  It 
has  an  excellent  library.  There  are  here  18  church- 
es;^ the  most  spacious  and  elegant  are  two  Unitarian, 
the  first  Baptist  and  the  St.  John's  Episcopalian,  which 
iour  may  be  ranked  among  the  most  elegant  in  the  U- 


w 


MANUrACTUftes. 


405 


nited  States.  Prbvidetice  Was  first  settled  in  1636,  and 
is  memorable  for  the  retreat  of  Roger  Williams,  when 
persecuted  in  Massachusetts,  in  1635.  It  was  to  this 
eccentric  and  opinionated,  but  sincere  and  pious  man, 
that  Providence  is  indebted  for  het*  settlement,  which 
at  thisday  stands  the  second  city  in  New  England,  with 
a  capital  of  more  than  $3,000,000  invested  in  manufac- 
tures, and  $5,000,000  employed  as  capital  in  banking 
institutions. 

The  Constitution  adopted  in  1842,  by  a  majority  of 
the  legal  voters,  after  a  great  display  of  party  rancour, 
appears  now  to  take  very  well,  after  they  have  become 
weaned  from  the  celebrated  charter  granted  by  Charles 
II,  in  1663,  which  some  of  them  appeared  to  cling  to, 
with  a  tenacity  which  was  not  to  be  shaken. 

The  city  is  famous  for  its  manufactories,  among  which 
may  be  named  cotton  mills,  woollen  mills,  bleacheries, 
dye-houses,  machine-shops,  iron-foundrieS)  nail-facto- 
ries, &c.  It  also  has  an  active  coasting  and  foreign 
trade.  It  is  connected  with  Boston  by  railroad,  and 
with  Stonington  in  Connecticut.  The  Blackstone  ca- 
nal connects  it  with  Worcester  in  Massachusetts. 

On  our  way  to  Worcester,  by  the  Providence  and 
Worcester  railroad,  we  passed  through  the  following 
towns :  Pawtucket,  Centre  Falls,  Valley  Falls,  Lons- 
dale, Ashton,  Albion,  Manville  Woonsocket,  Water- 
ford  and  Blackstone,  all  of  which  are  in  the  most  pros- 
pering condition.  The  first  of  which  is  famous  for  its 
cotton  mills,  calico  printing  works,  &c.,  in  such  a  high 
condition  that  Lowell  itself  has  no  reason  to  be  asha-* 
med  of  it. 


11 
mi 


it    j  £ 


If 


mmmmm 


406 


ULaCKSTONE    VaLLEV. 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII. 

STATS  OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 

Third  arrival  in  the  State — Towns — Worcester — Railroads — 
State  Lunatic  Asylum — Antiquarian  Ilall — Villages— Brook- 
field — Towns — Springfield — State  of  Agriculture — United 
States  Armory — Gardens — Cranberry — Peas  and  Beans — Cul- 
ture— Hedges — Fences — Posts. 

Worcester  county.  Soon  after  leaving  the  village  of 
Blackstone,  I  again  found  myself  in  Massachusetts,  be* 
ing  the  third  time  I  entered  it  in  less  than  ten  days 
time.  I  found  the  Blackstone  Valley  to  be  adorned 
with  numerous  towns  and  villages,  which,  with  their 
gardens  and  public  grounds  attached,  displayed  much 
taste  and  beauty,  fn  addition  to  the  order  and  taste 
displayed,  they  appear  to  be  situated  with  the  highest 
regard  to  beauty  of  location.  They  are  Uxbridge,  Whi- 
tins,  Dunplace,  Northfield,  Farnumville,  Grafton,  Sut- 
ten,  Millbury  and  Quinsigawand,  which  are  respect- 
ively well  built,  pleasant  places,  especially  Uxbridge, 
which  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Blackstone 
river,  and  carries  on  some  manufactures. 

Worcester,  containing  a  population  of  7,497,  is  sit- 
uated on  the  Blackstone  river,  near  the  head  of  the 
Blackstone  Valley,  is  a  fine  inland  town,  connected 
with  Providence  by  the  Blackstone  canal,  opened  in 
1828,  at  a  cost  of  $600,000.  It  also  has  a  railroad 
communication  with  Boston,  Providence,  S|  liugfield 
and  Albany.  The  town  contains  some  fine  buildings, 
among  which  are  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum,  establish- 
ed in  1832,  a  very  celebrated  institution  ,  the  American 


liROOKFIELD 


iOlf 


Antiquarian  Hall,  erected  in  1820;  the  society  was 
founded  in  1812,  and  is  now  in  a  flourishing  state. — 
The  hall  contains  a  very  valuable  library  of  16,000 
volumes,  and  a  cabinet  of  valuable  antiquities.  The 
town  is  situated  44  miles  west  of  Boston,  and  is  active- 
ly engaged  in  manufacturing,  having  over  $500,000 
invested  for  that  purpose. 

On  our  way  to  Springfield,  we  passed  through  three 
flourishing  towns,  each  of  which  are  situated  on  the 
Worcester  and  Albany  railroad,  viz:  Clapville,  Carl- 
ton, and  Spencer,  halting  about  an  hour  at  Brookfield, 
memorable  as  the  place  where  the  English  took  refuge 
after  being  routed  by  the  Indians,  and  their  comman- 
der, Capt.  Hutchinson,  killed.  Here  was  shown  me 
the  spot  where  the  house  stood,  in  which  the  inhabi- 
tants and  routed  soldiers  took  shelter,  which  the  Indi- 
ans surrounded  alter  having  burned  all  the  other  hou- 
ses, and  poured  a  storm  of  musket  balls  upon  it  for  two 
days  ;  after  which,  the  arrows  of  fire  and  the  cart  load- 
ed with  flax  and  tow  was  applied,  by  pushing  it  a- 
gainst  the  house  with  long  poles.  At  this  critical  mo- 
ment, a  torrent  of  rain  descended  and  suddenly  extin- 
guished the  kindling  flames,  soon  after  which  the  ap- 
proach of  Major  Willard  dispersed  the  Indians,  and  sa- 
ved the  beseiged. 

Hamden  county.  Warren,  Brimfleld,  Palmer,  North 
Wilbraham  and  South  Wilbraham  are  towns  varying 
in  population  from  one  to  three  thousand  inhabitants 
each,  being  situated  on  the  Worcester  and  Albany  rail- 
road, and  present  the  most  delightful  and  flourishing 
appearance,  several  being  situated  in  a  fine  region  of 


IB 


40S 


STRlNOriKLD 


country,  within  a  few  miles  ofSpringfteld,  all  of  which 
little  towns  are  neatly  built,  occupying  pleasant  sites  and 
have  a  portion  of  the  famouj  Connecticut  valley  to 
support  their  prosperity* 

Springfield,  with  a  population  of  10,985.  This  beau- 
tiful town  was  called  by  the  Indians,  Agawam.  It  is 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  splendid  towns  in  New  England,  be- 
ing situated  in  a  very  fertile  and  charming  region  of 
country,  which  is  all  that  is  lovely  in  cultivation, 
where  the  science  of  agriculture  is  managed  in  a  mas^ 
terly  degree. 

Springfield  and  its  vicinity  is  memorable  for  the  in- 
roads and  depredations  of  the  Indians.  We  however, 
are  not  to  oe  surprised  that  the  Indians  held  on  to 
Springfield  and  its  vicinity,  with  a  tenacity  which  no- 
thing but  death  could  affect,  as  it  is  part  of  the  Con- 
necticut valley,  the  garden  spot  of  the  New  England 
States* 

The  town  of  Springfield  is  well  laid  out,  the  build- 
ings being  large  and  elegant,  the  streets  are  broad  and 
well  paved,  with  fine  avenues  of  the  American  elm  on 
each  side  of  them,  the  churches,  (twelve  or  thirteen  in 
number,)  generally  highly  finished  and  possessing  much 
elegance*  The  United  States  Armory,  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  town,  is  a  great  object  of  interest.  This 
establishment  comprises  several  large  buildings,  where 
about  250  men  ar«  constantly  employed  in  the  manu- 
facturing of  arms.  They  complete  about  15,000  mus- 
kets annually.  Springfield  has  a  communication  with 
Boston,  Albany,  Hartford  and  Nevv  Haven  by  railroad, 


GARDEJirS.- 


409 


and  also  witti  the  t\X'o  last  named  places  by  steamboat 
on  the  Connecticut  river,  which  is  navigable  to  this 
place; 

The  gardens  in  the  vicinity  ot  the  town  receive  the. 
greatest  attention.  I  here  observed  that  Yankee  en- 
terprise was  displayed  no  less  in  gardens  than  in  other 
pursuits  of  life,  at  least  so  far  as  order,  neatness,  arrange- 
ment, taste,  beauty  and  variety  of  plants  are  concern- 
ed ;  among  which  may  be  found  grapes,  currants,  goos- 
berries,  raspberries,  strawberries,  flowering  shrubbery, 
the  various  roots  and  plants,  in  a  word,  as  much  vege- 
tation as  can  be  found  on  the  same  area  ot  ground,  in 
any  other  region  of  country,  in  the  same  latitude. 

The  cranberry  may  be  seen  growing  spontaneously 
here  ad  W'ell  as  in  other  sections  of  the  State.  Thev 
are  generally  planted  on  low,  moist  meadow-lands, 
which  are  prepared  by  subsoil  plowing  and  thorough 
harrowing.  They  are  then  set  in  drills,  about  3  inch- 
es apart,  the  rows  being  about  20  inches  from  each 
other.  They  are  cultivated  on  the  order  of  corn,  by 
keeping  the  weeds  down  and  stirring  the  ground  with 
a  light  cultivator  for  a  time,  as  they  soon  occupy  the 
whole  ground.  The  berries  are  gathered  with  a  rake 
made  for  the  purpose.  Three  hundred  bushels  per  a- 
cre  have  been  produced,  which  are  worth  in  market, 
from  one  to  two  dollars  per  bushel. 

Peas  and  beans  are  here  a  flourishing  (?rop.  The 
peas  are  most  usually  sown  broadcast,  at  the  rate  of 
from  two  to  three  bushels  per  aci^e,  and  plowed  in  to 
the  depth  of  three  inches  and  th«  ground  afterwards 
rolled  Bmooth  to  facilitate  gathering.  The  beana  ar? 
IS 


li 


1 1 


*     J 
i 


i 


410 


II  £  IJ  G  L  * 


planted  in  drills  in  the  usual  way,  about  one  and  a  liafi 
bushels  of  seed  to  the  acre,  when  sown  broadcast  about 
as  much  more  seed  is  used.  They  are  usually  gather- 
ed by  ^mowing  or  by  means  of  an  iron  hook-rake. — 
The  vines  are  gathered  into  small  heaps,  where  they 
remain  for  a  while  till  dry,  when  they  are  thrasbod, 
cleaned  and  spread  till  entirely  free  from  dampness. — 
The  straw  or  haulm  is  then  stacked  for  the  use  of  sheep, 
as  it  is  considered  excellent  fodder  for  them.  Large 
quantities  are  raised  not  only  here  but  m  the  New  Eng- 
land States  generally,  for  the  purpose  of  feeding  sheep, 
as  beans  are  considered  one  of  the  best  kin.^s  of  winter 
food  lor  them,  they  being  the  only  animal  which  eats 
the  bean  raw.  The  crop  produces  usually  irom  fifty 
to  sixty  bushels  per  acre  when  sown,  and  from  twen- 
ty-five to  thirty  when  drilled. 

On  my  way  from  Worcester  to  this  place,  as  well 
as  in  some  other  sections  of  the  State,  my  attention  was 
drawn  to  the  various  modes  of  fencing.  Hedges  arc 
comparatively  few,  and  when  met  with  are  generally 
short.  They  are  objected  to  as  occupying  too  much 
ground  and  harboring  vermin.  Such  however,  as  are 
met  with  are  made  up  of  different  kinds  of  shrubbery, 
sometimes  several  kinds  in  the  same  fence,  amonj; 
which  may  be  seen  English  hawthorn,  the  holly,  with 
an  evergreen  leaf  handsomely  variegated  with  yellow 
spots,  and  armed  with  short  still  thorns  ;  the  gorsc,  a 
prickly  shrub  bearing  a  yellow  blossom.  These  are 
fences  more  far  taste  and  fancy  than  real  profit.  In 
the  more  substantial  hedges  are  the  buckthorn  ;  the  o- 
sage  orange  grows  lirre,  but  is  better  adapted  to  a  south- 


r  r:  N  e  E  s  . 


i)V 


rrn  climate  ;  thi^  native  thorn,  the  Michigan  rose  and 
the  sweet-briar,  both  hardy  and  of  luxuriant  growth ; 
the  crab-apple  and  wild  plumb,  with  their  thick  tough 
branches  and  formidable  thorns,  constitute  the  best  of 
these  fences.  The  wild  laurel,  an  evergreen  of  great 
beauty  at  all  times  and  especially  when  clothed  with 
its  magnificent  blossoms,  at  which  time  it  forms  a  beau- 
tiful hedge. 

Many  of  the  fences  are  constructed  by  a  substantial 
foundation  of  stone,  reaching  about  two  feet  above  the 
ground,  in  which  posts  are  placed  at  proper  distances, 
with  three  bar  holes  above  the  wall,  in  which  an  equal 
number  of  rails  are  inserted.  A  fence  constructed  of 
posts  and  rails,  and  posts  and  boards,  are  common  where 
there  is  a  deficiency  of  timber.  The  posts  are  placed 
in  the  centre  of  a  large  hole,  about  two  and  a  half  feet 
deep  and  surrounded  by  fine  stone,  which  is  well  pound- 
ed down  by  a  heavy  iron  shad  rammer,  as  they  are  fil- 
led in.  The  lower  end  of  the  post  is  pointed,  to  pre- 
vent its  heaving  with  the  frost. 

In  preparing  the  posts  for  fencing,  its  position  while 
in  the  tree  is  reversed,  or  the  upper  end  of  the  split 
section  of  the  trunk,  which  is  used  for  a  post,  is  prepa- 
red to  be  placed  in  the  earth,  as  it  is  contended  by  per- 
soni  to  be  more  durable.  This  end  is  frequently  char- 
red or  partially  burned,  which  will  also  add  to  its  du- 
ration. Some  posts  are  prepared  by  boring  a  hole  near 
the  surface,  or  that  portion  of  it  which  comes  near  the 
surface  of  the  earth  when  planted  ;  this  hole  is  bored 
with  a  large  augur,  diagonally  downw^ards  and  nearly 
throu2b,  which  is  afterwards  filled  with  salt  and  close- 


f     \i 


?':  :l    i  1 


412 


J^TATE   or   CON'Nr.CTICLT. 


]y  plugged,  which  is  said  to  add  greatly  to  its  Hniabiir* 
ly.  This  process  and  that  of  charring  or  burninj^,  ex- 
tends only  f6  oak  and  chestnut,  and  siTch  other  timber 
less  durable  than  cedar  and  lacust. 


CHAPTER    XXXIX. 

STATB  OF  CONNBCTICni'. 

Connecticut  Vrtll<<y — Ponds — Connecticut  river — High  Htandard 
ot  agriculture-*^ Equality  of  persons — Birds — Delightful  scemc 
ry — Shade  Trees — The  Grape — Gardens— Screen  or  Hurdlo 
— Unfenced  portion  of  the  valley — Sunken  Fence — Villages 
— Connecticut  Bridge — Dwelling-houses — Hartford — State- 
House— City  Hall — Trinity  College — Athenaemn-^  Afner)can 
Asylurti-^-Retreat  for  the  Insane — Manufactures — Rocky  Hill 
—Historical  sketch — Towns — Barren  Land — New- Haven*— 
Harbour--State-House — State  Hospital — Yale  College — Min- 
eralogical  Cabinet — Trumbull  Gallery — Gardens — Streets- 
Avenues  of  Shade  Trees — Public  Square — Remark — Public 
Cemetery — East  Rock — Prospect — Flumming- Birds — Long 
"Wharf — Commerce. 

Hartford  county, — In  travelling  from  Springfield 
down  the  famous  Connecticut  Valley,  I  found  it  a  great 
luxuriant  meado\v,  chec|uered  by  patches  of  wheat, 
corn  and  other  grains.  There  are  no  tunnels  and  very 
few  embankments  on  the  railroad.  The  traveller  there- 
fore, has  an  excellent  view  of  the  country,  which  con- 
tains a  number  of  small  lakes  and  ponds,  affording  a 
pleasing  variety  to  the  scenefy  j  and  they  are  as  useful 
as  they  are  ornamental.  The  water  is  beautiful  and 
clear,  and  I  was  told  when  they  are  frozen  to  the  depth 


tuN.NKCTUU  r    VALt.r.V. 


413 


of  many  ieet  in  wlnl»»r,  they  I'urnish  larj^o  cul>ical  ma.»i- 
os  of  ice,  which  are  sawed  in  square  blocks  of  conve- 
nient size,  and  transported  to  the  principal  cities  thro'- 
out  the  Union,  and  even  shipped  to  South  America. 

The  hanks  of  the  Connecticut  River,  for  miles,  were 
covered  v  ith  an  elegant  species  of  golden  rod,  with  its 
showy  bright  yellow  flowers  ibrming  two  golden  bi'lts, 
with  the  silvery  waves  of  the  Connecticut  rolling  in 
majestic  grandeur  between  them,  presenting  a  scene 
delightful  and  sublime.  This  delightful  Valley,  as 
well  as  many  other  portions  of  the  New-P]ngland  States, 
is  entirely  destitute  of  large  timber,  owing  to  its  being 
cut  down  originally  without  mercy,  because  it  served 
as  an  ambush  for  the  Indians,  since  which  time  it  has 
never  recovered. 

The  Valley  of  the  Connecticut  presents  a  pleasing 
picture  of  a  rural  population,  where  there  is  neither 
poverty  nor  great  wealth.  Here  the  elements  of  agri- 
cultural knowledge  are  scattered  broadcast  over  the 
country,  and  brought  within  the  reach  of  the  poorest 
citizens  and  the  humblest  capacities.  The  great  sci- 
ence of  Agriculture  is  raised  to  its  proper  standard,  and 
the  farmer,  who  is  the  "  bone  and  sinew"  of  our  coun^ 
try,  is  here  met  at  his  daily  avocations  by  doctor,  law- 
yer, merchant  and  dandy,  and  receives  fro^n  each  and 
all,  as  cordial  a  shake  of  the  hand  as  he  would  from  his 
brother  farmer.  There  is  a  remarkable  contrast,  in  this 
respect,  between  the  New-England  States  and  the  Old 
Dominion,  a  portion  of  which  I  attribute  to  the  high 
standard  of  agriculture,  which  of  course  to  some  de- 
btee, disarms  those  persons  of  their  whims,   and  they 


I 


iu 


p.  1 1{  I)  *  , 


meet  the  plain  farmer  upon  more  equal  footing.  In 
this  respect,  my  attention  was  particularly  directed  to 
the  dandy  tribe,  in  which  the  contrast  was  so  great  be- 
tween the  South  and  East,  that  I  also  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  the  Eastern  dandy  could  not  be  orthodox, 
as  I  observed  he  did  not  take  the  same  pride  in  making 
inroads  upon  the  cigar-box  and  his  father's  or  guar- 
dian's purse  ;  neither  is  bowing  and  scraping  practiced 
to  such  a  wholesale  extent  as  it  is  by  the  genuine  boot- 
ed and  strapped  dandy  of  the  South. 

Among  the  many  beauties  of  the  Connecticut  Val- 
ley which  attract  the  attention  of  the  stranger,  may 
be  named  its  numerous  Birds,  that  keep  up  a  ceaseless 
song,  while  chirping  and  skipping  among  the  branches 
of  the  numerous  and  beautiful  shade  trees  of  the  Valley. 
These  birds  are  many  of  them  adorned  with  a  brilliant 
plumage,  and  whose  songs,  intermingled  with  the  din 
of  ihe  grasshoppers  and  crickets,  add  animation  to  the 
scene  spread  out  before  the  view  of  the  traveller,  while 
the  flowering  shrubbery  conspicuous  on  every  hand,  is 
also  animated  with  scores  of  humming-llrds  and  hawk- 
both,  or  humming-sphinx,  all  poised  in  the  air^  while 
sucking  the  flowers,  the  body  seeming  motionless  and 
the  wino-s  bein-;  invisible  from  the  swiftness  t»i  their 
vibration.;,  whose  buz  is  delightful  to  the  ear  and  ani- 
mating to  the  mind. 

The  shade  trees  of  the  Valley  possess  all  that  is  love- 
ly, graceful  and  imposing,  being  of  the  choicest  spe^ 
cies,  among  the  largest  of  which  may  be  named  the 
elm,  one  of  the  most  graceful  and  imposing  trees,  with 
its  beautiful  projecting  limbs  and  long  pendant  branch- 


^!lAD2   tREES. 


il5 


:ing 


es.  Would  that  all  could  see  the  patriarchal  elms 
which  grace  the  beautiful  villages  and  country  dwell- 
ings  of  the  Connecticut  Valley  !  I  would  almost  guar- 
antee their  universal  dissemination.  The  sugar  maple, 
a  beautiful  tree  having  a  straight  trunk,  and  regular, 
upward  branching  limbs,  forming  atop  of  great  sym- 
metry and  elegance.  This  tree,  besides  the  ornamen- 
tal and  thick  shade  it  affords,  gives  an  annual  return  in 
its  sap,  which  is  used  for  making  into  sugar  and  syrup, 
and  its  timber  is  esteemed  valuable  for  furniture.  The 
black  walnut,  a  stately,  graceful  tree  of  great  value  for 
its  durability ;  the  white  ash,  with  its  slender  and  stiff 
top,  has  a  light  and  graceful  appearance ;  the  weeping 
willow,  with  its  variegated  foliage  and  long  flexile 
twigs,  sometimes  trailing  the  ground  for  yards  in  length, 
whose  silvery  leaves  are  among  the  earliest  of  Spring 
and  the  last  to  maintain  their  verdure  in  Autumn;  the 
locust,  with  its  profusion  of  flowers  and  massive  flakes 
of  innumerable  leaflets  of  the  deepest  verdure,  are  a- 
mong  the  largest  shade  trees  which  grace  the  Connec- 
ticut Valley. 

The  grape  appears  to  grow  as  spontaneous  in  this 
Valley  as  any  thing  else.  The  vine  is  frequently  seen 
taking  possession  of  the  scattered  trees  in  the  fields  and 
borders  of  woodlands,  without  receiving  any  attention 
or  labor,  except  the  planting  in  some  instances,  and  a 
few  stakes  to  protect  them  while  young  from  injury  by 
cattle  or  other  animals.  They  are  planted  on  the  south 
^de  of  the  tree  when  planted  at  all,  where  they  will 
receive  the  warmth  of  the  sun,  where  they  need  only 
a  little   protection.     They   are  also  planted  near  the 


f[l:ji 


i 


il6 


G  A  R  i)  E  .V  » 


dwelling  oti  the  south  side  of  a  j>ost,  which  is  firiuiy 
planted  in  the  earth,  being  of  considerable  height. — 
The  shoots  or  scions  are  two  or  three  in  number,  and 
are  trained  up  the  post  by  means  of  loops  <^f  leather, 
till  the  first  of  March  in  the  second  year  after  planting, 
at  which  time  the  number  is  reduced-  to  one,  which  is 
to  make  the  trunk  of  the  vine.  This  is  cultivated  by 
pruning,  training  and  manuring,  together  with  such  o- 
ther  attention  as  it  may  require.  With  this  small  at- 
tention the  native  wild  grape  is  said  to  produce  an  a- 
bundance  of  fruit. 

In  the  gardens  and  pleasure  grounds  may  sometimes 
be  seen  a  screen  or  wire  fence  of  taste  or  fancy,  around 
beds  of  flowering  shrubbery,  which  is  very  beautiful. 
This  screen  or  fence  is  frequently  called  by  these  peo- 
pie  hurdle.  It  is  variously  formed  of  cordage,  wire  or 
wicker  work,  in  short  pannels,  and  firmly  set  in  the 
ground  by  sharpened  stakes  or  posts,  which  are  some- 
times made  of  iron,  at  the  end  of  each  pannel.  When 
this  hurdle  is  constructed  of  wire,  it  is  prepared  by 
boiling  the  wire  in  linseed  oil,  heated  as  hot  as  it  will 
bear  for  half  an  hour.  The  wire  is  then  taken  off  and 
hung  in  the  sun  until  it  is  dried.  This  process  is  re- 
peated three  times.  The  object  is  to  make  the  wire 
tough,  and  render  it  impervious  to  rust.  When  con- 
structed of  cordage,  a  coat  or  two  of  a  proper  composi- 
tion is  applied,  which  rerxders  it  water-proof,  and  great- 
ly adds  to  its  duration. 

In  one  portion  of  the  Valley  the  prospect  is  not  e- 
ven  obstructed  by  a  fence.  This  portion  of  it  is  called 
the  unfenced  part  of  the  Valley,   which   is  cauecd  by 


SUNKEN    FENCn. 


417 


the  scarcity  of  timber.  To  remedy  this  evil  to  some 
degree,  extensive  legislative  powers  reside  in  the  sep- 
arate towns,  which  enables  each  to  adopt  such  regula- 
tions as  best  comport  with  their  own  interests.  There- 
fore, no  animals  are  permitted  to  go  on  the  fields  till 
autumn,  and  the  crops  are  required  to  be  removed  at  a 
designated  time,  when  each  occupant  is  at  liberty  to 
turn  on  the  common  premises,  a  number  of  cattle  pro- 
portionate to  his  standing  forage,  which  is  accurately 
ascertained  by  a  supervisory  board.  This  arrangement 
prevails  chiefly  on  the  broad  bottom  lands  which  skirt 
the  banks  of  the  Connecticut  river,  where  in  many 
places,  the  periodical  inundations  would  sweep  away 
a  fence  if  they  had  the  materials  wherewith  to  make 
one. 

In  other  sections  of  the  vallev,  the  sunken  fence  is 
used,  which  is  said  to  be  perfectly  efficient,  and  is  cer- 
tainly agreeable  to  good  taste.  It  consists  of  a  vertical 
excavation  on  op?  side  about  five  feet  in  depth,  against 
which  a  wall  is  built  to  the  surface  of  the  ground. — 
The  opposite  side  is  inclined  at  such  an  angle  as  will 
preserve  the  sod  from  sliding  from  the  effects  of  the 
frosts  and  rain.  This  fence  therefore,  does  not  obstruct 
the  view  any  more  than  where  there  is  none  whatever. 
To  the  addition  of  serving  as  a  fence,  they  afford  good 
ditches  for  the  drainage  of  water,  and  always  remaia 
in  good  repair. 

On  my  way  down  the  valley  to  Hartford,  I  passed 
the  following  villages,  at  each  of  which  we  stopped : 
Tompsonville,  Warehouse  Point.    At  the  latter  place 

there  is  a  very  strong  and  splendid  bridge  over  the 

18* 


ni 


us 


H  A  11  t  K  u  n  n  . 


Oonni'ctirut  river,  on  which  Iho  cars  pass.  The  l)riil|j;(? 
is  12G0  foot  long  and  cost  $120,000,  built  at  such  a 
height  that  steamboats  and  packet  ships  pass  through 
under  it.  Being  built  on  six  arches,  with  a  roof,  it  af- 
fords a  charming  prosp<»ct  of  the  river.  Windsor  Lock, 
near  the  bridge  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  is  a 
handsome  little  vilhge.  The  town  of  Windsor,  with 
a  population  of  2283,  situated  Avithin  7  miles  of  Hart- 
ford, is  a  handsome,  flourishing  little  town. 

The  dwelling-houses  in  the  country,  are  many  of 
them  only  one  story  high,  with  a  neat  little  brick 
chimn€*y  at  each  end ;  and  the  houses  are  generally 
weather-boarded  and  painted  either  white  or  yellow, 
the  latter  most  frequently.  The  arrangements  connect- 
ed with  the  dwelling,  as  well  as  the  farm  buildings  are 
neat  and  convenient.  Some  of  the  houses  have  both 
Chi mnies  at  the  side  of  the  house  instead  of  the  end, 
being  from  ten  to  twelve  feet  ajjart,  owing  to  the  size 
of  the  building.  This  mode  of  building  chimnies,  how- 
ever, is  not  so  common  in  the  Connecticut  valley  asia 
some  other  old  settled  sectionp  of  New  England. 

Hartford,  with  a  population  of  9468,  is  very  beauti- 
fully situated  on  a  commanding  site,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Connecticut  river.  It  stands  in  a  fertile  district 
bespangled  with  neat  villages,  which  enjoy  the  advan- 
tages of  numerous  millseats,  and  easy  communication 
with  Long  Island  Sound  and  the  Atlantic.  The  site 
occupied  by  the  city  ofHartford,  contained  only  one 
house  and  a  fort  in  the  year  1633,  and  three  years  af- 
terwards it  was  permanently  settled  by  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Hooker  and  some  emigrants  from  M assachuset  ts.     The 


It  A  11  I  F  ()  n  i> 


il<> 


city  !ia«  a  <1;iily  cornmunicalion   witU   ,\t'W   York  by 
Ntoamboats. 

Hartford  is  a  semi-capital  of  tlio  Stato,  and  contains 
n  very  spl»^ndid  State-Jiousc,  where  the  legislature 
meets  each  alternate  year ;  the  other  rapito!  being  at 
New  Haven.  The  city  Hall  is  an  elegant  structure, 
occupying  a  delightful  site.  The  Trinity  Collge,  found- 
ed in  1824,  and  then  called  Waflhingloa  College,  is  a 
very  flourishing  institution,  with  large  and  excellent 
halls.  The  Athenceum,  an  elegant  gothic  edifice,  is 
richly  worth  inspection.  The  American  Asylum,  for 
the  instruction  of  the  deat  and  dumb,  established  in 
1816,  the  first  of  the  kind  in  America,  has  now  145 
pupils,  who  receive  instruction  in  various  branches  of 
learning,  and  acquire  a  knowledge  of  the  useful  arts. 
The  retreat  for  the  Insane,  a  very  celebrated  institu- 
tion which  has  been  in  operation  since  the  year  1824, 
There  are  here  numerous  branches  of  industry,  among 
which  are  the  manufacturing  of  wearing  apparel,  sad- 
dlery, wire,  cards,  shoes,  &c.  Rocky  Hill,  a  place  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city,  where  can  be  seen 
a  large  mass  of  columnar  trap,  with  red  sandstone.  In 
this  famous  quarry,  the  distinct  joints  which  divide  the 
sandstone,  contrast  finely  with  the  divisional  planes 
which  separate  the  basalt  into  pillars. 

Hartford  is  celebrated  for  the  Convention  of  the  Fed- 
eralists on  the  15th  of  December,  1814,  which  is  said 
to  have  been  a  treasonable  combination  of  ambitious 
individuals,  who  taking  advantage  of  the  embarrass 
menta  of  the  national  administration,  arising  out  of  the 
war,  sought  to  sever  the  Union,  and  so  far  as  can  btt 


1 


i  : 


420 


HARTFORD. 


learned,  they  were  only  deterred  from  an  open  attempt 
to  accomplish  their  purpose,  by  the  unexpected  con- 
clusion of"  a  treaty  of"  peace  with  Great  Britain,  which 
disembarrassed  the  immortal  Madison  and  his  adminis- 
tration, and  swept  away  all  grounds  upon  which  to 
proviecute  their  unholy  designs. 

After  a  session  of  near  three  weeks,  they  published 
a  report,  in  which  they  threw  a  mantle  over  their  de- 
signs, by  dwelling  upon  the  public  grievances  felt  by 
the  JNew  England  States  particularly,  af\er  which,  in 
no  small  degree,  they  proceeded  to  suggest  no  less  than 
seven  different  alterations  of  the  Federal  Constitution, 
and  concluded  their  report  with  a  resolution  providing 
for  the  calling  of  another  Convention,  should  the  Uni- 
ted States  refuse  to  favor  their  d  signs.  On  which  these 
black  cockade  delegates  dispersed,  whose  acts  have 
since  been  bitterly  denounced  and  charged  as  being  of 
a  treasonable  nature.  A  charge  from  which  it  is  said, 
neither  their  report  nor  secret  journal  has  the  power 
of  exonerating  them.  Therefore  they  will  ever  re- 
ceive the  scorn  of  the  world  and  the  curses  of  the  A- 
merican  people,  so  long  as  a  spark  ol  republican  feel- 
ing remains  in  their  breasts. 

.  Down  the  valley  from  Hartford,  are  the  towns  of 
New  Britain  and.  Berlin  Station  ;  the  latter  with  a  pop- 
ulation of  3411,  situated  at  the  distance  of  11  miles  be- 
low the  city.  At  this  place,  stages  leave  for  Bristol, 
Terryville  and  Plymouth,  on  the  arrival  of  the  steam- 
boat train  from  New  Haven,  The  town  is  well  laid 
out,  located  on  a  beautiful  site,  handsomely  ornament- 
ed with  shade  trees  of  a  hardy  and  beautiful  species. 


name,  oi 


N  K  W      II  A  V  i:  N  . 


4:^1 


The  town  contains  somo  fine  looking  dwellings,  and 
several  laro;e  and  elegant  churches. 

JVew  Haven  county.  The  village  of  Meridian  Sta- 
tion, with  a  population  of  1880,  situated  7  miles  below 
Berlin,  is  a  pleasant  little  place.  At  this  place  stages 
are  in  readiness  on  the  arrival  of  the  same  train  above 
noticed,  to  take  passengers  to  Middletovvn  and  Water- 
bury.  Between  Meridian  Station  and  the  city  of  New 
Haven,  are  the  villages  of  VVillingford  and  North  Ha- 
ven 5  the  latter  with  a  population  of  1351,  which  is 
quite  an  attractive  little  town.  Near  this  place,  is  a 
considerable  area  of  barren  land,  which  is  surrounded 
by  the  most  fertile  region  of  country.  On  seeing  this 
barren  spot  at  a  considerable  distance  oiF,  I  fancied  it 
was  a  great  field  of  ripe  wheat.  This  spot  presents  the 
more  remarkable  appearance,  owing  to  its  being  situa- 
ted in  the  midst  of  a  region  clothed  in  the  most  luxuri- 
iant  verdure. 

New  Haven,  with  a  population  of  12,960,  is  very 
beautifully  situated  at  the  head  of  a  bay  of  the  same 
name,  on  a  large  plain,  4  miles  from  Long  Island  So'  nd. 
The  harbour  is  safe  and  spacious,  but  it  is  shallow  and 
gradually  filling  up.  New  Haven  was  founded  in 
1638,  by  Theophilus  Eaton  and  John  Davenport.  In 
the  year  1565,  it  was  united  to  Connecticut  by  royal 
charter,  and  plundered  by  the  British  in  1779.  It  is 
now  also  a  semi-capital  of  the  State,  and  contains  a 
State  House,  an  elegant  structure  built  of  brict.  The 
State  Hospital,  founded  in  1824,  is  a  large  and  splendid 
building,  well  arranged.  Yale  College,  one  of  the 
most  celebrated   literary  institutions   in   the  United 


fft  . 


4'i« 


N'  K  W     HAVEN. 


States,  was  founded  at  Killing  worth,  in  1701,  removed 
to  Say  brook  in  1707,  and  to  New  Haven  in  1717.— 
The  halls  belonging  to  this  memorable  institution  arc 
large  and  superb.  This  college  contains  a  splendid 
mineralogical  cabinet,  and  a  very  valuable  library  of 
over  33,000  volumes.  The  late  Col.  Trumbull  be- 
queathed to  the  College,  many  of  the  best  productions 
of  his  pencil,  which  are  arranged  in  an  appropriate 
building  known  as  the  Trumbull  Gallery.  This  galle- 
ry is  opened  daily  to  visiters,  and  the  proceeds  arising 
from  the  exhibition,  (25  cents  being  the  admittance 
fee,)  are  appropriated  to  aid  indigent  students  in  ob- 
taining their  education. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  neatly  built ;  ma- 
ny of  the  houses  have  the  most  splendid  gardens  at- 
tached. The  streets  are  broad  and  bordered  with  the 
most  beautiful  avenues  of  shade  trees,  of  the  choicest 
species,  which  mingle  agreeably  with  the  buildings  of 
Yale  College  and  the  numerous  churches.  In  the  cen- 
tre of  the  city  is  a  most  beautiful  square,  ornamented 
with  the  same  fine  graceful  trees,  and  surrounded  with 
the  most  splendid  edifices. 

The  graceful  and  beautift:!  trees  ot  the  public  square 
with  those  of  the  far-famed  College,  have  a  most  im- 
posing appearance.  They  have  too  a  social  and  moral 
influence,  far  beyond  the  mere  gratification  of  the  eye 
or  the  consideration  of  dollars  and  cents.  In  their  fresh- 
ness and  simplicity,  they  impress  the  young  mind  with 
sentiments  of  purity  and  loveliness  as  enduring  as  life. 
From  the  cradle  of  infancy,  consciousness  first  da\^ns 
upon  the  beauty  of  nature ;  beneath  their  grateful  shad^ 


JTIADE    TREES — EAST    ROCK. 


423 


the  more  boisterous  sportsof  childhood  seek  their  keen- 
est enjoyment  amid  their  expanded  foliage  ;  and  they 
become  the  favorite  resort,  when  the  feelings  assume  a 
graver  hue,  and  the  sentiments  of  approaching  man- 
hood usurp  the  place  of  unthinking  frolic.  Their  mem- 
ory in  after  life,  greets  the  lonely  wanderer  amid  his 
trials  and  vicissitudes,  exciting  him  to  breast  the  storm 
of  adversity  till  again  welcomed  to  their  smiling  pres- 
ence. Their  thousand  associations  repress  the  unhal- 
lowed aspirations  of  ambition  and  vice,  and  when  the 
last  sun  of  decrepid  age  is  sinking  to  its  rest,  these  ven- 
erable monitors  solace  the  expiring  soul,  with  the  as- 
surance that  a  returning  Spring  shall  renew  its  exist- 
ence beyond  the  winter  of  the  tomb. 

The  public  Cemetery,  containing  about  18  acres,  is 
very  tastefully  laid  out  in  avenues  running  at  right  an- 
gles with  each  other,  bordered  on  each  side  with  neat 
white  railings^  on  which  appear  the  names  of  the  own- 
ers of  the  lots  enclosed.  The  East  Rock,  situated  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  head  of  the  bay,  is  a  very  high 
bluff  of  rock,  rising  so  abruptly  as  to  be  very  fatiguing 
to  gain  the  summit,  which  however  affords  a  charming 
prospect  of  the  plain  and  Long  Island  Sound,  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach.  In  the  beautiful  gardens  of  the  city 
may  be  seen  flowering  shrubbery,  and  plants  of  almost 
every  kind.  Here  I  saw  for  the  first  time  in  a  garden, 
the  scarlet  lobelia  and  a  large  sweet-scented  water  lily. 
The  humming  birds  fluttering  around  the  flowers  of  a 
gladiolus  was  a  delightful  scene.  The  wharves  are 
gxx)d,  Long  Wharf,  being  3945  feet  in  length.  The 
^reign  and  coasting  trade  of  the  city  is  considerable^ 


I  i 


424. 


LUNG    ISLAND    riOl'NU. 


and  its  manufactories  of  fire-arms,  carriages,  i^c,  are 
very  extensive. 


CHAPTER    XL. 

STATS  or  NEW  YORK. 

Long  Island  Sound — Secnery — Beauties  of  Long  Island  Sound 
— Approach  of  the  City  of  New  York — The  Country — Ship- 
ping of  the  City  of  New  York — Horses — Battery — Prospect, 

A  few  minutes  after  entering  the  Steamer  Commo- 
dore, I  found  myself  within  the  boundary  of  the  Em- 
pire State,  by  sailing  in  the  very  bosom  of  the  Long 
Island  Sound,  which  is  from  ninety  to  ninety-five  miles 
long,  and  from  five  to  fitleen  miles  wide.  The  dav 
was  very  beautiful ;  the  sun  shining  on  the  water  with 
her  bright  rays,  added  sublimity  to  the  scene.  We  had 
Long  Island  on  the  one  side  and  the  mainland  on  the 
other  ;  the  scenery  at  first  tame,  from  the  width  oi  the 
channel,  but  very  lively  and  striking  when  this  became 
more  contracted ;  and  at  length  we  seemed  to  be  sail- 
ing into  the  very  suburbs  of  the  great  city  of  New 
York  itself,  passing  between  green  islands,  some  of  then> 
covered  with  buildings  and  villas. 

The  longer  we  sailed  and  the  nearer  the  sun  got  to 
the  horizon,  the  more  brilliant  and  sublime  did  the  rays 
appear.  I  was  not  a  little  diverted  on  hearing  some 
of  the  passengers  comparing  the  changing  hues  of  the 
clouds  and  sky  to  the  blue  and  red  colours  in  the  pig- 
eon's neck.  The  brilliancy  of  the  rays  ol  the  sun  fal- 
ling obliquely  on  the  bosom  of  the  water,  presented  a 


<  ITV    AN!)    ColMRy. 


425 


ficpne  truly  iin]  using  and  grand.  The  watery  element 
appeared  to  change  its  hues  every  moment ;  tlie  shades 
of  purple  and  green  fleeting  over  it,  now  dark,  now 
lustrous,  now  pale  and  then  a  streak  of  silver  light  di- 
vided the  shades  of  green. 

The  nearer  we  approached  the  great  metropolis,  the 
more  imposing  the  scene,  as  the  chimnies  of  countless 
steam-boats,  factories  and  houses  ol  a  population  of  near- 
ly four  hundred  thousand  souls,  rolled  up  a  magnificent 
cloud  of  smoke,  which  ascended  heavenward,  while  the 
rays  of  a  dazzling  sun  shed  refulgent  glories  on  every 
part  of  the  scene,  till  we  landed  at  the  wharf,  surroun- 
ded by  hundreds  ol  steamers,  ships,  schooners,  sloops, 
&c.,  amid  the  din  and  noise  ol  the  wharves  of  a  great 
and  populous  city. 

By  the  time  I  landed  at  this  place  a  second  time,  I 
hrd  become  alrpost  disgusted  with  large  cities,  as  I  had 
reason  to  believe  that  all  populous  places  are  unheal- 
thy, because  the  atmosphere  is  perpetually  being  poi- 
soned and  corrupted.  Putrid,  animal  and  vegetable 
substances  necessarily  abound  in  them  :  high  walls  and 
crowded  houses  obstruct»the  free  passage  of  the  air,  & 
while  miasmata  thus  created  and  confined  are  poison- 
ing the  atmosphere,  thousands  of  human  beings  are 
breathing  it,  and  of  course  adding  to  its  impurity.  It 
is  impossible  that  such  a  state  of  things  should  be  oth- 
erwise than  unfavorable  to  human  health,  and  degtruc- 
tive  to  human  life. 

But  the  pure  air  of  the  country,  and  its  exceedingly 
beautiful  scenery  had  such  an  excellent  effect  upon  my 
health,  that  I  became  very  partial  in  this  respect,  and 


I 


i 


42() 


SIlirriNO   OF  NRW    YORK    CITY. 


shall  hereafter  seize  every  opportunity  of  inhaling  the 
one  and  heholdin^  the  other.  The  busiest  and  most 
important  avocations  afford  some  few  snatches  of  leis- 
ure, and  these  can  never  be  better  or  more  wisely  em- 
ployed, than  in  seeking  out  the  beauties  of  nature  in 
their  native  haunts.  It  is  the  more  easily  accomplish- 
ed, as  a  large  portion  of  the  year  presents  a  perfect  suc- 
cession of  beauties  to  the  eye  of  taste,  and  of  enjoy- 
ments to  a  well  attuned  soul ;  and  there  are  few  indeed, 
who  cannot  contrive  to  quit  their  avocations  for  a  brief 
space  of  time.  It  was  however,  with  no  small  delight 
that  1  viewed  a  second  time  this  great  theatre  of  com- 
merce, where  no  less  than  two  thousand  froreign  ships 
arrive  annually,  together  with  five  thousand  coasting 
ships  in  the  same  length  of  time.  There  are  also  here 
a  line  of  steam-packets  to  Liverpool,  besides  which 
there  are  line-ships,  that  sail  for  Liverpool  every  five 
days,  to  London  every  ten  days,  and  to  Havre  every 
eight  days.  Kegular  lines  of  packets  are  also  establish- 
ed to  all  the  chief  cities  in  the  United  States,  the  West 
Indies,  and  South  America.  The  steamboat  lines  to  all 
the  adjacent  maritime  towns  are  very  numerous. 

In  viewing  the  giant  power  of  the  steam-vessels  and 
the  recent  achievements  they  have  accomplished,  we 
cannot  but  feel  a  certain  awe  mixed  with  admiration, 
in  looking  to  the  future  changes  which  this  great  mar- 
itime agent  may  affect  in  the  state  of  the  world.  The 
main  object  in  the  busy  age  in  which  we  live,  is  to 
shorten  distance  and  save  time  ;  for  this  purpose  hills 
have  been  levelled  and  valleys  filled  up,  canals  dug,  & 
rivers  spanned,  and  the  steam  engine  made  in  a  thous- 


II  0  il  5  E  b  . 


4-27 


and  ways  to  supply  the  oflices  ol  human  hands. 

Here  we  behold  conspicuously  the  new  era  which  has 
come  upon  us ;  skill,  science  and  enterprise  have  been 
called  into  activity  by  the  inexhaustible  wealth  oi*  our 
country,  whose  merchants  are  princes.  The  distant 
conceptions  of  Watt,  and  the  predictions  of  Fulton  have 
been  realized.  The  broad  Atlantic  wave  has  been  ad- 
vantageously navigated  by  Steam.  America  and  her 
mother  England  have  been  brought  within  twelve  days 
sail  of  each  other,  time  and  space  had  alike  been  meas- 
urablj'  annihilated,  by  curtailing  distance  and  giving 
speed  and  certainty,  which  before  both  time  and  safety 
were  at  the  mercy  of  the  windj. 

Here  ive  behold  with  pride  the  steam  ships  plowing 
the  briny  surge,  in  spile  of  wind  or  wave,  like  giants 
rejoicing  at  their  course,  engendering  generous  deeds 
and  friendly  feelings  between  the  denizens  of  the  old 
and  new  world,  to  the  mutual  happiness  and  prosperi- 
ty of  both,  and  it  is  evident  that  it  heightens  the  affec- 
tions of  all,  and  causes  them  to  become  more  closely 
entwined. 

My  attention  was  now  drawn  to  the  horses  of  the 
city,  which  are  generally  poor  and  look  badly,  which 
might  be  said  of  them  all,  except  perliaps  some  of  the 
carriage  horses  of  the  more  opulent  of  the  city.  There 
appears  to  be  a  great  contrast  in  this  respect,  between 
the  large  and  noble  animal  of  Boston  and  the  lean,  rough, 
broken-down  horse  of  this  city.  This  however,  is  not 
confined  to  the  city  alone,  but  the  northern  and  east- 
ern portion  of  the  State  also,  has  many  very  indifferent 
horses.      This  fault   does  not   extend  to  other  beasts, 


f 


ip'il' 


i28 


B  A  T  T  B  II  Y  . 


which  all  appear  to  he  in  a  thriving  condition.  It  ap- 
pears a  little  remarkable,  to  behold  in  this  great  thea> 
tre  of  prosperity,  so  many  small,  lean,  rough,  nicked 
and  bobbed  horses,  presenting  strong  indications  oi  be- 
ing refused  their  due  portion  of  the  prosperity  of  the 
country. 

On  the  moring  of  my  departure,  I  spent  an  hour  at 
the  Battery,  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
city,  containing  eleven  acres  of  ground,  well  shaded 
with  beautiful  trees,  where  the  weeping  willows  with 
their  variegated  foliage  and  long  flexile  twigs,  whose 
silvery  leaves  had  increased  in  size  and  beauty  in  the 
time  that  intervened  on  mv  tour  north  and  east  from 
the  city.  The  air  was  warm,  and  the  rising  sun  cast 
rts  brilliant  rays  in  sublime  grandeur  on  the  harbour, 
which  could  be  delightfully  viewed  from  the  Battery, 
with  all  its  islands,  ships,  steamers,  forts  &c.  It  is  with 
no  small  pride  that  the  stranger  views  the  harbour  of 
this  Great  Comi»ercial  Emporium  of  the  Western  Hem- 
isphere, where  the  chimnies  of  numerous  steam-boats 
and  the  great  forest  of  towering  ship-masts,  with  hun- 
dreds of  flags  fliittering  in  the  breeze,  which  presents 
a  scene  at  once  imposing  and  delightful. 


-•-•>'-»- 


vTKRSEV   tlTY. 


i29 


CHAPTER    X  LI. 

filTATB  6T  MTBW  JSltSEY. 

Jersey  City — Newark — Manufactures — Elizabeth  town — Marfihy 
Lands — Villafires — New  Brunswick — Rutger's  College — The- 
ological Seminary — Bridge — Dean's  Pond — Princeton  College 
— Shade  Trees — Theological  Seminary — Remark — Trenton 
— State  House — State  Prison — Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal 
— Falls  of  the  Deleware — Manufactures — Sanpink  Bridge 

Hndson  Countt/i  The  ferry-boat  landed  us  at  Jer- 
sey city,  containing  a  population  of  8073^  situated  on 
the  left  bank  of  tHe  Hudson  River,  just  opposite  the 
city  of  New  York,  at  the  distance  of  one  mile  ;  that  be- 
ing the  width  of  the  noble  Hudson  at  this  place.  The 
city  has  quite  an  active  trade  for  the  number  of  its  in- 
habitants, it  being  well  situated  for  commerce^  It  h 
also  connected  with  Newark  by  railroad. 

Esse36  County.  Newark,  with  a  population  of  17,- 
290  inhabitants,  being  very  delightfully  located  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Passaic  river,  3  miles  from  Newark 
Bay,  is  the  largest  and  most  importantcity  in  the  State, 
being  woll  built  with  spacious  streets  and  handsome 
houses,  many  of  which  are  animated  with  fine,  grace- 
ful shade  trees.  The  city  has  an  easy  communication 
with  New  York,  by  means  of  steamboats,  it  being  on- 
ly ten  miles  distant;  and  the  New  Jersey  and  Morris 
canal  also  pass  through  the  city.  This  place  is  in  a 
very  flourishing  condition,  and  has  considerable  com- 
merce, though  principally  noted  for  its  manufacttires, 
which  are  extensive,  the  capital  employed  being  about 
two  millions  of  dollars.  Among  the  articles  produced, 
may  be  namc*d  carriages^  shoes  and  boots,  cutlery,  sad* 


430 


*IEW   BRUNSWICK. 


dlcry,  jewelry,  hats,  fornilure  &,c.  There  are  here 
seventeen  large  fine  churches,  three  banks  and  several 
valuable  libraries.  The  city  v^^as  founded  in  1666,  by 
a  company  from  Connecticut,  who  purchased  the  site 
and  some  of  the  surrounding  country  trom  the  Indians, 
for  J£130,  twelve  blankets,  and  twelve  old  muskets. 

Elizabethtown,  with  a  population  of  2500,  is  a  very 
beautiful  town,  4  miles  from  Newark.  It  containssev- 
eral  manufactures,  mills,  &c.  It  is  connected  with 
Newark,  Trenton  and  Summerville  by  Railroad,  by 
which  the  inhabitants  are  not  slow  in  profiting. 

Middlesex  County,  This  county  and  that  of  Essex 
contain  large  bodies  of  marshy  lands.  In  the  latter 
county,  between  the  city  of  Newark  and  Elizabeth- 
town,  are  large  bodies  o(  swampy  flats,  chiefly  between 
the  Railroad  and  the  Hudson  river.  In  such  places 
where  they  will  admit  of  draining,  they  are  rendered 
valuable  for  grass,  and  in  some  places  are  rendered  suf- 
ficiently dry  for  the  cultivation  of  grain  and  roots;  some 
of  these  swamps  are  redeemed  from  the  water,  and  so 
highly  cultivated  as  to  produce  the  very  heaviest  crops 
of  oats  and  corn.  On  the  railroad  to  New  Brunswick, 
are  four  flourishing  villages,  Ray  way,  Metuchin,  Free- 
mans  and  Campbells. 

New  Brunswick,  with  a  population  of  8,693,  is  a 
very  beautiful  city  of  800  houses,  pleasantly  situatedat 
the  head  of  sloop  navigation  on  the  Raritan  river,  and 
at  the  termination  of  the  Delaware  and  Raritan  canal. 
This  city  is  the  depot  of  the  product  of  the  fertile  dis- 
trict of  the  Raritan  river.  The  city  is  located  on  the 
lefl  bank  of  the  river,  on  a  very  beautiful  site,  being 


r  R  1  N  C  E  T  0  N  . 


431 


regularly  laid  out  and  well  situated  for  trade,  in  which 
it  is  engaged  very  actively.  Rutger's  College  is  loca- 
ted here,  and  was  founded  in  1770,  has  now  a  Presi- 
dent and  ten  Professors.  The  Theological  Seminary  is 
a  very  flourishing  institution,  under  the  direction  of  the 
German  Reform  Church.  The  city  also  contains  eight 
large  handsome  churches,  two  banking  houses  &c.  The 
bridge  which  crosses  the  Raritan  river  at  this  place  was 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $86,687,  which  is  a  handsome,  sub- 
stantial structure  of  considerable  length,  at  no  great 
height  from  the  water. 

Dean's  Pond  situated  7  miles  from  the  city,  on  the 
Railroad,  is  an  object  calculated  to  arrest  the  attention 
of  the  stranger,  owing  in  part  to  its  not  being  situated 
in  so  low  a  region  of  country  as  those  numerous  mar- 
-'^^■B  he  passed  to  the  north  ot  New  Brunswick.  On 
.  ^  ^ame  route  is  Kingston  a  pretty  little  town  4  miles 
distant. 

Merce?'  County,  Princeton,  with  a  population  of 
3055,  is  pleasantly  and  beautifully  situated  on  the  wes- 
tern branch  of  the  Millstone  river.  It  is  the  seat  of 
the  College  of  New  Jersey,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
celebrated  institutions  of  the  kind  in  our  country,  being 
founded  at  Elizabethtown,  in  1746,  or  more  than  a  cen- 
tury ago,  and  removed  to  Princeton  in  1757,  It  has 
thirteen  professors  and  a  valuable  library  of  about  12,- 
000  volumes.  The  halls  of  the  College  are  large,  hand- 
some, and  well  built,  on  a  very  splendid  site,  ornamen- 
ted with  very  beautiful  shade  trees,  whose  graceful 
boughs  have  a  very  imposing  appearance.  The  Prince- 
ton Theoloojical  Seminarv,  under  the  direction  of  the 


1   I 


t 


43 


r  K  E  N  r  o  N  » 


Presbyterians,  also  possessing  fine  buildings,  located  on 
a  commanding  site,  and  is  said  to  be  a  very  popular 
nnd  flourishing  institution.  The  town  contains  some 
fine  houses,  situated  on  broad,  handsome  streets,  bor- 
dered with  beautiful  avenues  of  trees. 

Princeton  is  also  noted  for  the  great  battle  of  the  3d 
of  Jan.  1777,  when  Washington  was  stealing  by  night, 
from  the  victorious  Cornwallis.  It  appearson  that  morn- 
ing at  sunrise,  his  retreat  being  cut  off  at  this  place,  by 
three  regiments  of  British  soldiers,  who  fell  with  such 
fury  on  his  little  army  as  to  cause  them  to  waver  and 
break  &  when  ail  seemed  lost,  when  Liberty  &  her  Star 
Spangled  Banner  were  drooping  and  alnriost  within  the 
graspof  the  victorious  Cornwallis,  the  already  dazzling 
Star  of  Washington  burst  forth  in  brighter  effulgence  than 
ever,  by  his  snatching  Columbia's  lovely  stripes,  &  spur- 
ring furiously  midway  between  the  contending  parties, 
and  with  his  manly  breast  turned  full  on  the  foe,  said  to 
his  countrymen  in  language  more  elegant  than  words, 
"  Follow  Me, "  and  moved  on  amid  the  chaos,  while 
the  thrilling  shout  of  the  gallant  Mercer  brought  up 
the  Americans  and  who  sealed  the  memory  of  his  no- 
ble daring  with  his  life,  while  hurling  the  Americans 
on  the  British  foe. 

Trenton,  with  a  population  of  4035,  very  delight- 
fully situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Delatvare  at  the  low- 
er falls,  30  miles  abdVe  Philadelphia,  is  the  Capital  of 
the  State,  and  contains  a  State  House,  one  hundred  feet 
long,  and  sixty  feet  wide,  constructed  of  very  beautiful 
stone,  located  on  a  splendid  site.  The  town  is  regu- 
larly laid  out  and  occupies  high  and  commandin;^  ground, 


TRENTON. 


4-33 


-at  an  advantageous  point,. the  Delaware  being  naviga- 
ble to  the  fell  for  sloops.  The  State  Prison  at  tlHs 
place,  is  a  strong  and  elegant  structure  ;  together  with 
some  other  public  buildings  in  the  town,  present  qmte 
a  handsome  appearance.  There  is  here  a  library,  es- 
tablished as  early  as  1750,  and  seven  large  elegant 
churches.  The  Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal  passes 
through  the  town.  The  falls  of  the  Delaware  afford 
extensive  water-power,  which  is  largely  employed  in 
propelling  manufactufing  establishments,  there  being 
ten  mills  aad  manufactories  just  below  the  falls.  The 
Delaware  is  bere  crossed  by  a  very  splendid  bridge, 
1100  feet  in  length,  resting  oil  five  very  handsome 
arches. 

TrentoB  is  celebrated  for  the  complete  surprise  and 
capture  of  the  British  and  Hessians,  by  Gen*  Washing- 
ton, on  the  morning  of  the  26th  of  December,  1776. 
While  engaged  in  a  Christmas  frolic,  they  were  thun- 
der-struck on  hearing  the  voice  of  Columbia's  noble 
and  greatest  son,  exclaiming  to  his  heroes,  while  rais- 
ing on  his  stirrups  and  waving  his  sword  :  "There,  my 
brave  friends,  there  are  the  enemies  of  your  country  ; 
and  now  all  I  ask  of  you  is  just  to  remember  what  you 
a-re  about  to  fight  for.  Charge !"  This  charge  wound 
up  the  Christmas  ball,  and  forty-one  of  the  guests  were 
to  bury,  and  near  a  thousand  had  the  pleasure  of  la- 
king  a  New  Year's  irolic  in  the  city  of  Philadelphia, 
prisoners  of  war. 

Trenton  is  also  famous  for  the  reception  of  Washing- 
ton, on  the  21st  of  April  1789,  at  the  bridge  over  the 
>SanpiBk,  a  creek  running  through  the  eastern  side  ot 
19 


! 


1=.  '  ! 


i:  1 1 


^34, 


3ANriNK  BRIDGL'* 


the  city,  across  which  Washington  retreated  on  (be  1st 
of  January,  1777,  or  six  days  after  his  capture  of  the 
British  and  Hessian?.  On  the  east  side  Cfi  this  little 
creek  it  is  said,  he  planted  his  cannon  to  defend  its  pas- 
sage. In  this  position  Comwallis  attacked  him,  at  4» 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  undoubtedly  would  have 
captured  him  and  the  whole  American  army,  bad  he 
taken  the  advice  of  Sir  William  Erskine,  who  advised 
the  continuance  of  the  battle,  wh:le  Corn  wallis  saw  fit 
to  withdraw  his  troops  when  nig  it  closed  in.  It  was 
irom  the  banks  of  this  sam«  little  creek,  that  Washing- 
ton stole  in  the  darkness  of  the  night,  and  next  morn- 
ing hewed  his  way  through  the  British  regiments  at 
Princeton,  and  effected  his  escape. 

Twelve  years  afterwards^  the  bridge  over  this  creek 
was  chosen  by  the  ladies  of  Trenton  for  the  reception 
oi  Washington,  while  on  his  way  to  New  York  to  act 
as  President  of  his  country.  Under  their  direction, 
this  bridge  was  decorated  with  a  triumphal  arch  with 
this  inscription  in  large  letters : 

DECEMBER  26,  1776. 

THE  HERO  WHO  DEFENDED  THE  MOTHERS, 

WILL  ALSO  PROTECT  THE  DAUGHTERS. 

The  hero  entered  the  arch  at  the  south  end  of  the 
bridge,  amidst  the  thrilling  shouts  of  thousands.  At 
the  north  end  of  the  bridge  we  are  told,  were  drawn 
up  several  hundred  little  girls,  dressed  in  snow-white 
robes,  with  their  temples  adorned  with  garlands,  and 
baskets  of  ilowers  in  their  arms,  while  behind  them 
stood  long  rows  of  young  virgins,  and  still  behind  them 
their  venerable  mothers,  all  of  whom,  while  lino^ing 


SI'ATK    op    rUNNSYLVANlA. 


43;*) 


the  following  verse  of  their  ballad,  strewed  the  way 

with  flowefs  befofe  him : 

*'Virgins  fair  and  matrons  grave, 
(These,  thy  conquering  arm  did  save  ;) 
]3uild  for  thee  triumphal  bowers, 
Strew  ye  fair,  his  way  with  flowers, 
Strew  your  hcro''s  way  with  flowers. 


CHAPTER    XLII. 

STATG  OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 

Aspect  of  the  State — Country  Buildings — Fences — German  pop- 
ulation— Internal  Improvements — Aliens — Towns — Philadel- 
phia— Streets — Shade  Trees — Old  State  House — Prospect — 
Custom  House — Exchange — Order  of  Architecture — Navy 
Yard — Naval  Asylum — Alms  House — Hospital — Institution 
for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb — Eastern  State  Penitentiary — Univer- 
sity-— St.  Stephen's  Church — Christ's  Church-Tomb  of  Frank- 
lin— Girard  College — Tickets  of  Admission — Omnibiisses — 
Laurel  Hill  Cemetery — Fairmount  Water- Works — Omnibns- 
ees — Bridges — Learned  Institutions — Markets — Monument  of 
the  Treaty  of  Penn — Fire  Engines — Vulgar  Familiarity — In- 
tellectual condition  of  the  People. 

After  crossing  the  Delaware  at  Trenton,  I  found  my- 
self within  the  boundary  of  this  State  ;  and  in  travel- 
ling through  the  State  by  the  way  of  Harrisburg,  I 
found  the  central  part  of  the  Old  Keystone  State  to  be 
intersected  by  the  various  ridges  of  the  Allegany  range 
of  mountains,  whose  general  direction  is  from  southwest 
to  northeast.  The  valleys  between  many  of  these 
ridges  are  generally  of  a  rich  black  soil,  suited  well  to 
fh«  various  kinds  of  grass  and  grain.     Some   of  the 


|! 


i 


436 


StATE   or   PENNfei'LVANlA. 


mountains  admit  of  cultivation  almost  to  their  summits. 
No  State  in  the  Union  perhaps,  shows  to  the  traveller 
a  richer  agriculture  than  the  old  Keystone. 

Mountainous  and  rolling  as  these  regions  are,  it  is  em- 
phatically a  grain  country,  raising  wheat  and  other 
grains  of  a  superior  quality.  In  a  word,  it  produces 
all  the  productions  of  the  northern  and  middle  States, 
and  is  particularly  famous  for  the  size  and  excellence 
of  its  breeds  of  draught  horses.  The  State  is  also  no- 
ted for  its  immense  coal  beds,  which  are  of  two  kinds, 
the  anthracite,  (perhaps  better  known  as  Lehigh  coal,) 
and  the  bituminous  coal,  which  are  distinct  in  their 
qualities. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  famous  old  commonwealth, 
are  distinguished  for  their  habits  of  order,  industry  and 
frugality.  The  passing  stranger,  as  he  traverses  the 
State,  is  struck  with  the  noble  roads  and  public  works, 
with  the  well  cultivated  fields,  all  beautifully  laid  out 
and  enclosed  with  a  handsome  straight  fence,  and  also 
ihtiit  commodious  and  durable  stone  houses  and  still 
krger  stone  barns,  with  the  farm  buildings  ornamented 
with  very  lofly  and  beautiful  shade  trees.  An  agri- 
cultural country,  alike  charming  and  rich  spreads  un- 
der his  eye. 

The  State  of  Pennsylvania,  perhaps  labors  under  the 
disadvantage  of  being  jointly  occupied  by  two  races, 
those  of  British  and  those  of  German  extraction.  The 
latter  I  observed  during  my  short  sojourn  in  the  State, 
to  be  to  all  appearances,  industrious  and  saving,  very 
averse  to  speculation,  but  certainly  wanting  in  that  hab- 
it of  identifying  themselves  with  the  acts  of  their  gov- 


I'M  ' 


GERMANS    or    rKXNSVLVAN'I A. 


in 


frnmcnt,  which. can  alone  give  to  the  electors  under  a 
representative  system,  a  due  sense  of  responsibility. — - 
Some  of  them  denounce  in  the  strongest  terms,  the 
great  system  of  internal  improvement  carried  on  by 
their  State,  by  talking  of  it  as  of  a  commercial  project 
which  has  failed,  and  they  were  reaping  few  or  no  ad- 
vantages from  the  enormous  expenditure  of  their  gov- 
ernment.— Because,  it  is  contended,  that  such  cheap 
and  rapid  means  of  locomotion  are  injurious,  by  facili- 
tating migrations  to  the  w«st,  and  preventing  a  country 
with  a  sparse  population,  from  filling  up.  For  this  rea- 
son, their  lands  had  not  risen  in  value  as  they  ought ;to 
have  done.  They  protested  that  they  had  always  been 
opposed  to  lailways  and  canals,  and  that  for  every  use- 
ful line  adopted,  there  was  sure  to  be  anotner  unne- 
cessary canal  or  railway  made,  in  consequence  ol  log- 
rolling in  the  legislature. 

The  representatives  they  say,  of  each  section  of  the 
country,  would  only  consent  to  vote  money  if  they 
could  obtain  a  promise  that  an  equal  sum  be  laid  out  in 
their  own  district,  and  to  this  end,  some  new  and  u.n- 
called  for  scheme  had  to  be  invented.  This  kind  of 
jobbing  these  Germans  compare  to  log-rolling  in  the 
back  settlements,  where  the  thinly  scattered  inhabitants 
assemble  and  run  up  a  log-cabin  in  a  single  day  for  the 
nev>  comer,  receiving  in  their  turn,  some  correspond- 
ing service  whenever  the  union  of  numbers  is  requi- 
red. There  may  also  be  noticed  some  complaint  against 
that  multitude  of  aliens,  who  have  recently  been  ad- 
mitted to  take  part  in  the  elections,  by  shortening  the 
term  of  years  required  for  naturalization,     ft  i^  said 


s 


d 


ii! 


ii.m  ' 


<     i 


J 


438 


A  L  1  C  N  i^  . 


that  owing  to  the  neglect  of  registration,  many  alieny 
vote  iraudulently,  and  otliera  several  times  over  at  the 
same  poll  in  various  disguises. 

This  is  a  matter  sometimes  dwelt  upon  with  bitter- 
ness by  some,  while  the  picture  drawn  by  others  is  of- 
ten so  highly  coloured  as  to  be  very  amusing,  and  up- 
on the  whole  there  appears  to  be  no  great  alTection  for 
that  large  number  of  aliens,  who  have  of  late  years  been 
invested  with  electoral  rights,  and  candidates  for  pla- 
ces m  the  magistracy  or  the  legislature.  To  the  sym- 
pathies of  this  ignorant  mass,  the  flattery  of  the  dema- 
gogue is  very  frequently  directed.  This  temptation  is 
too  strong  to  be  resisted,  for  small  as  may  be  their  num- 
bers when  compared  with  the  native  voters,  they  often 
turn  the  scale  in  an  election  where  the  great  constitu- 
tional parties  are  nearly  balanced.  Therefore,  it  is 
here  a  very  easy  matter  to  draw  a  discouraging  pic- 
tare  of  the  dangers  of  universal  suftra^jje. 

Bucks  county.  This  famous  old  county  is  situated 
in  the  angle  ol  the  Delaware,  where  that  noble  river 
bends  its  course  from  southeast  to  southwest,  forming 
an  angle  of  about  ninety  degrees,  a  few  miles  below 
Trenton.  The  southeast  end  of  this  county  is  all  that 
is  lovely  in  agriculture  ;  the  soil,  to  all  appearances,  is 
of  the  most  admirable  quality.  On  the  Trenton  and 
Philadelphia  railroad  are  Morrisville,  Tullytown,  Bris- 
tol and  Taconey,  each  of  which  are  very  flourishing 
towns.  From  Taconey  a  steamboat  carried  us  down 
the  Delaware  8  miles  to  Philadelphia. 

Philadelphia,  with  a  population  of  228,690,  is  very 
beautifully  situated  in  a  county  at  the  same  name^  on  a 


PtllLADtLPHlA* 


439 


fiat  peninsula  between  the  Delaware  an  J  Schuylkill 
rivers,  about  five  miles  above  their  junction,  in  the  prin- 
cipal city  in  the  State,  and  has  the  merit  of  being  the 
most  regularly  laid  out  and  the  wwst  beautifully  built 
city  in  the  world.  It  yields  to  none  in  the  Union  in 
weahh,  industry  and  the  intelligence  of  its  citizens, — 
The  streets  of  the  city  are  broad  and  straight,  crossing 
each  other  at  right  angles,  thereby  dividing  the  city  in- 
to numerous  blocks  or  squares,  some  of  which  have 
been  reserved  for  public  walks,  being  ornamented  with 
fine  shade  trees  and  flowering  shrubbery.  The  dwel- 
ling-houses are  neat  and  commodious,  and  the  public 
buildings  are  generally  constructed  of  white  marble. — 
The  city  is  noted  for  several  events  in  our  history, 
such  as  Penn*s  treaty  with  the  Indians,  the  assembling 
of  the  first  Congress,  in  1774,  and  being  occupied  by 
the  British  in  the  year  1777,  &c. 

Objects  of  attraction.  The  Old  State  House,  e- 
rected  as  early  as  1735,  contains  that  renowned  old 
hall,  where  the  Congress  sat  which  declared  our  na- 
tional independence,  and  also  the  Convention  which 
formed  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States.  Tickets 
of  admission  to  the  steeple  may  be  procured  at  the  May- 
or's office,  between  the  hours  of  9  A-  M.  and  2  P.  M. 
The  superintendent  of  the  building  is  always  on  duty. 
A  ramble  through  this  venerable  old  building  is  truly 
interesting,  and  the  view  from  the  steeple  is  delightful. 

The  Custom  House,  formerly  the  United  States  Bank 
built  after  the  model  of  the  Parthenon,  at  Athens,  was 
finished  in  1824.  It  is  87  feet  on  the  front  and  160 
feet  deep ;  erected  at  a  cost  of  $500,000. 


' 


' 


m 


Hi) 


Mr:Rv;<IANT^S   KXiniANfiK'. 


The  United  States  Mint,  eatablislied  in  1791,  and  re-f 
moved  to  the  present  beautiful  white  marble  edifice  in 
1830.  Visitors  are  admitted  every  day  before  V2  M. 
except  Saturday  and  Sunday. 

The  Merchant's  Exchange,  is  situated  at  the  corner 
of  South  Third  and  Walnut  streets,  and  on  the  angle 
formed  by  the  intefsectifon  of  Dock  wifth  Walnut  and 
Third  str^e^ts/  This  splendid  structure  was  built  in 
1834-,  after  the  model  of  the  Choragic  Monument^  at 
Athens,  called  by  modern  Athenians  the  Lantern  of 
Demosthenes }  a  monument  erected  330  years  before 
Christ. 

This  Exchange  is  constructed  entirely  of  marble,  in 
the  form  of  a  rectangular  parallelogram,  ninety-five 
feet  front  on  Third  street,  by  one  hundred  and  fifty  on 
Walnut  street.  On  Dock  street  however,  is  a  semi- 
circular projection,  ornamented  from  the  top  of  the* 
basement  story^  with  six  beautiful  Corinthian  columns, 
with  handsome  capitals.  This  splendid  portico  is  of 
the  height  of  two  stories,  and  communicates  with  the 
Exchange  room  by  means  of  nine  separate  windows, 
which  may  be  tised  as  doorways.  This  semi-rotancio 
K  seventy-two  feet  in  diameter  in  the  basement,  on  ei- 
ther side  of  which,  a  flight  of  ^one  steps  leads  likewise 
to  the  main  room  of  the  edifice  from  Dock  street.  On 
the  side  of  the  same  street,  ccmimences  a  hall  which 
passes  through  the  centre  of  the  building  to  Third 
street,  and  another  likewise  communicates  with  this 
from  the  north  side. 

On  the  right  or  north  side  of  this  hall,  is  the  Post 
Office,  seventy-four  feet  by  thirty^six,  and  on  the  left 


rooms  01 


^UBU^    nUiLDINOM. 


44.1 


tite  several  insurance  oHicos  and  hanks,  and  n.Uu  thtf 
session-room  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce.  On  each 
side  of  this  great  hall  are  a  flight  of  stairs,  which  as- 
cend to  the  second  floor.  On  this  floor  is  the  Exchange 
room,  situated  at  the  east  front  of  the  building,  extend- 
ing across  the  whole  length  of  the  building,  and  is  said 
to  occupy  an  area  of  3300  superficial  feet.  A  very 
beautiful  entrance  leads  from  the  head  of  the  stairs  in* 
to  this  apartment.  The  ceiling  extends  to  the  roof,  is 
of  the  form  of  a  dome  and  supported  by  several  marble 
columns.  Its  panels  are  or  lamented  wi^h  splendid 
fresco  paintings,  representing  con»merco,  wealth,  lib- 
erty, &c.,  all  beautifully  executed,  ap'  earing  to  have 
as  striking  a  relief  as  sculptured  v  >rk.  ^her^  are 
rooms  on  the  right  side  of  this  hall,  whic*^  u'e  appro- 
priated for  the  meetings  of  stockhoHers,  orokers.  Stc. 
The  attic  story  is  fifteen  feet  high,  '^or^ainssix  rooms, 
occupied  by  library  associations,  artists,  &c. 

The  front  on  Third  street,  contains  a  sort  of  piazza, 
let  into  the  main  wall,  with  several  pillars  constructed 
of  marble,  rising  from  the  top  of  the  basement  to  the 
roof.  The  roof  of  the  structure  is  oval,  and  surmount- 
ed by  a  circular  lantern  that  rises  forty  feet.  This  ed- 
ifice is  one  of  the  most  imoosing  for  architectural  dis- 
play, of  which  the  city  Cu  :  ^^oast. 

The  United  States  Navy  Yard,  located  on  Front 

street,  contains  about  iburteen  acres  of  ground;  but 

ships  of  war  of  thc::  largest  class  cannot  ascend  to  the 

city  with  the  whole  of  their  armament.     The  Naval 

Asylum  is  a  handsome  structure  of  marble,  with  a  front 

of  385  feet,  being  capable  of  accommodating  four  hun- 
19* 


i 


i 


U2 


PENITSNTIARY. 


dred  men,  erected  at  a  cost  of  three  hundred  thousand 
dollars. 

The  Alms  House,  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Schuylkill,  consists  of  four  distinct  buildings,  with  four 
hundred  rooms.  The  Pennsylvania  Hospital,  founded 
in  1750,  and  commenced  five  years  afterwards  and  on- 
ly finished  in  1804,  is  beautifully  situated  on  Pine 
street.  In  front  of  it  there  is  a  bronzed  lead  statue  of 
William  Penn.  The  Institution  for  the  Deaf  ^  Dumb 
established  in  1820,  and  the  Orphan  Asylum,  egtabr 
lished  in  1814,  are  worthy  charities. 

The  Eastern  State  Penitentiary  is  situated  on  one  of 
the  most  elevated,  airy  and  delightful  sites  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  Philadelphia,  and  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  lar- 
gest buildings  in  the  United  States,  occupying  ten  a- 
cres  of  ground.  Tickets  of  admission  may  be  obtaiuf^d 
from  any  of  the  inspectors,  viz:  M.  L.  Sevan,  349, 
Arch  street;  John  Bacon,  74,  South  Third  or  il7,jRace 
,8treet ;  Thomas  Bradford,  7,  Sansom  street ;  Robert  Pat- 
terson, 182,  Market  street ;  or  Recorder  Vaux,  South 
Sixth  street. 

The  principal  front  of  this  great  structure  is  six  hun- 
dred and  seventy  feet  in  length,  and  rej,oses  on  a  ter- 
race, which  from  the  inequalities  of  the  ground,  varies 
from  three  to  nine  feet  in  height.  The  bwem^nt  or 
belting  course,  which  is  ten  feet  high^  is  scarpet^^  and 
extends  uniformly  the  whole  length.  This  front  is 
composed  of  large  blocks  of  hewn  and  squared  gi^ite. 
Near  the  gate  of  entrance  are  situated  three  tpwers; 
there  are  also  four  others  situated  on  the^i^gles  .ot  a 
wall  thirty  feet  high,  enclosing  an  areii  of  fitXihuiKiFed 


P  E  N  I  T  R  N  T  I  A  n  Y  . 


4.4.3 


Stnd  forty  leel  sqnare.  From  these  towws  the  whole 
establishment  can  be  overlooked.  The  great  gateway, 
in  the  centre  of  this  enormous  wall,  forms  a  conspicu- 
ous feature.  It  is  twenty-seven  feet  high  and  fifteen 
feet  wide,  and  is  filled  by  a  massive  wrought  iron  port- 
cullis, and  double  oaken  gates,  studded  with  projecting 
iron  rivets  the  whole  length,  and  is  said  to  weigh  sev- 
eral tons. 

On  each  side  of  this  entrance  are  enormous  solid  but- 
tresses, diminishing  in  offsets,  and  terminating  in  pin- 
nacles. A  lofty  octangular  tower,  80  feet  high,  con- 
taining an  alarm-bell  and  clock,  surmounts  this  entrance 
and  also  forms  a  picturesque  feature.  On  each  side  of 
this,  are  the  apartments  of  the  warden,  keepers  and  do- 
mestics, whose  walls  are  pierced  with  small,  blank 
pointed  windows,  and  are  surmounted  by  a  parapet. 

The  centre  building  is  two  hundred  feet  in  length, 
and  consists  of  two  projecting  massive  square  towers, 
fifty  feet  high,  crowned  by  projecting  embattled  para- 
pets; supported  by  pointed  arches,  resting  on  corbels  or 
brackets.  The  pointed  windows  in  these  towers  are 
very  lofty  and  narrow,  and  contribute  in  a  high  degree 
to  the  picturesque  appearance  presented  by  them. 

The  walls  of  the  building  are  plaistered  and  neatly 
white-washed,  the  cells  are  eleven  feet  long  and  eight 
ieet  wide.  At  the  extremity  of  the  cell,  is  a  doorway 
containing  two  doors,  one  of  lattice  work  or  grating, 
to  admit  the  air  and  secure  the  prisoner,  the  other  com- 
posed of  planks,  to  exclude  the  air  if  required.  This 
door  leads  to  a  yard,  eighteen  feet  long  and  eight  feet 
wide.     In  these  cells  the  prisoners  are  confined  sepa- 


I 


I 


I 
1  I 


!    i 


Ui 


TOMB    OF    FiiANthi^, 


lately.  They  see  the  keepers,  chaplain,  and  occasion^ 
al  visiters,  b}'  which  the  rio"our  of  their  solitude  is  mit- 
igated. They  are  taught  to  read,  and  have  numerous 
occupations.  The  vi^hole  establishment  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  admirably  inanaged^ 

The  University  of  Pennsylvania,  situated  on  Ninth 
street,  Was  founded  in  1791  j  the  Medical  department 
of  which  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  most  distinguished  in 
the  United  States. 

Among  the  churches,  the  most  noted  is  St.  Stephen'^, 
in  Tenth  street,  which  is  102  feet  long,  50  feet  wide 
and  of  the  Gothic  order  of  architecture.  Christ's  church 
erected  in  1691,  is  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  the 
city.  It  has  a  spire  196  feet  high.  In  the  burial 
ground  of  this  church,  lie  the  remains  of  Dr.  Franklin 
and  wife,  whose  tomb  is  found  in  the  west  corner,  near 
Arch  street,  by  a  plain  marble  slab,  with  no  other  in- 
scriptions than  his  name  and  that  of  his  wife,  and  the 
time  of  their  deaths. 

St.  John's  church,  is  another  very  splendid  Gothic 
edifice,  situated  on  Thirteenth  street.  In  addition  to 
these,  there  are  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  other 
large  and  elegant  churches,  with  three  large  and  splen- 
did synagogues.  Among  the  worshippers  in  these  nu- 
merous churches,  may  be  found  all  the  different  per- 
suasions exib.ing  in  our  land,  even  to  the  Deist.  It 
was  here  I  first  learned  that  the  Deists  were  numerous 
enongh  to  have  churches. 

The  Girard  College,  founded  by  Stephen  Girard,  for 
the  education  of  orphans,  is  situated  on  a  high  and  cbm- 
inandin»T  site,  formerly  known  >is  Rel  Hall,  one  mile 


GIRARD      COLLEGE 


445 


from  the  city.  It  consists  of  a  main  building,  one  hun* 
dred  and  sixty  feet  by  two  hundred  and  eighteen  feet, 
and  two  others,  each  fifty-two  by  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  feet.  They  are  very  much  celebrated  fot* 
their  architectural  beauty,  being  constructed  of  white 
marble,  with  a  colonnade  ox"  Grecian  Corinthian  col- 
umns entirely  surrounding  them,  standing  on  a  marble 
platform,  which  is  gained  by  eleven  steps.  The  floors 
are  very  beautifully  tessellated,  and  the  building  has  a 
grand  and  imposing  appearance,  being  covered  with 
marble  tiles,  every  superior  tile  overlapping  the  one 
below  it  six  inches.  Among  the  many  devices  which 
adorn  the  interior  of  this  superb  structure,  may  be  na- 
med the  statue  of  Mr.  Girard,  by  Gevelot,  which  is 
wrought  in  a  masterly  style,  of  an  excellent  quality  of 
marble.  This  great  college  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  o- 
ver  one  million  two  hundred  thousand  dollars.  By  the 
will  of  Mr.  Girard,  the  clergy  are  excluded  from  visi- 
ting this  great  college.  Tickets  of  admission  to  the 
college,  now  in  full  operation,  may  be  obtained  of  J. 
R,  Chandler,  Esq.,  President,  105,  North  Tenth  street, 
and  Isaac  Elliott,  81,  Chestnut  street,  or  W.  G.  Duan, 
138,  Walnut  street.  Omnibusses  pass  through  Chest- 
nut, Tenth,  Poplar  and  Ridge  Road  streets,  and  leave 
the  Exchange  every  eight  minutes  for  the  college,  and 
continue  about  2  miles  to  Laurel  Hill  Cemetery,  to 
which  place  tickets  of  admission  may  be  had  of  any  of 
the  managers,  among  whom  may  be  named,  Frederick 
Brown,  Esq.,  corner  of  Chestnut  and  Fifth  streets. — 
This  Cemetery  is  considered  the  mos*  beautiful  m  the 
State  of  Pennsylvania.     There  are  here  many  of  the 


';s    • 


UQ 


FATRMOUNT    WATER-WORKS. 


most  splendid   monuments,   and   an  elegant   piece  ol 
sculpture,  by  Thom,  of  Old  Mortality. 

The  Fairmount  Water- Works,  constructed  at  a  cosi 
of  about  $450,000,  presents  an  eminent  combination  of 
elegance   and  utility.     They  occupy  thirty  acres  of 
ground,  most  ot  which  is  a  hill,  one  hundred  feet  high. 
There  are  four  reservoirs,  having  a  capacity  of  over 
twenty  millions  of  gallons.     The  grounds  are  adorned 
with  beautiful  walks  and  shade  trees.     The  annual  ex- 
pense of  this  great  work  is  about  forty  thousand  dollars. 
The  grounds  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  near  the  machine- 
ry which  forces  up  the  water,  are  very  beautifully  or- 
namented with  shade  trees  of  the  choicest  species. — 
There  are  here  several  very  beautiful  cisterns  or  ba- 
sins, constructed  of  white  marble,  one  of  which  con- 
tains a  female  statue,  standing  on  a  pedestal  placed  in 
the  centre  of  the  basin,  holding  in  her  arms  a  marble 
swan,  the  water  ascending  from  the  mouth  of  the  swan 
to  the  height  of  fifteen  or  eighteen  feet.     The  other  ba- 
sin or  cistern  contains  a  pedestal,  on  which  is  placed 
the  statue  of  a  child  sitting  on  a  fish,  looking  up  at  the 
water  as  it  asnends  from  the  mouth  of  the  fish.     Omni- 
busses  for  this  place  connect  with  steamboats  to  Laurel 
Hill,  Schuylkill  Fills  and  Manj^unk,  le?ve  the  Ex- 
change every  eight  minutes.     One  line  passes  through 
Third,  Chestnut  and  Broad  streets,  another  through 
Third,  Arch,  Schuylkill,  Fifth  and  Vine  streets,  all  of 
which  arrive  at  the  Water- Works  every  eight  minutes. 
Fare  for  each  passenger  6i  cents. 

Tift  permanent  bridge  over  the  Schuylkill,  built  in 
1798,  is  one  thousand  three  hundred  feet  in  length, 


.LEARNED   INSTITUTIONS. 


447 


constructed  at  a  cost  of  three  hundred  thousand  dollars. 
The  wire  suspension  bridge,  at  Fairmount,  built  in 
1842,  at  a  cost  of  fifty-five  thousand  dollars,  is  remark- 
able for  its  light,  elevated  and  beautiful  appearance. 

The  learned  institutions  of  Philadelphia  are  very  dis- 
tinguished, among  which  may  be  named  the  Ameri- 
can Philosophical  Society,  the  Academy  of  Natural 
Sciences,  the  Pennsylvania  Historical  Society,  and  the 
Franklin  Institute ;  all  of  which  have  published  some 
valuable  volumes.  The  City  Library  is  of  itself  a  cu- 
riosity, consisting  of  no  less  than  53,000  volumes. — 
The  city  also  contains  an  Academy  of  Fine  Arts.  The 
markets  of  Philadelphia  are  celebrated  for  the  great  va- 
riety of  products  exhibited,  as  also  for  their  cleanli- 
ness and  extent.  The  manufactures  of  the  city  are  va- 
rious and  extensive  ;  her  foreign  commerce  is  consider- 
able; her  inland  commerce  is  also  very  extensive,  and 
said  to  be  rapidly  increasing  in  conseqnence  of  the  fa- 
cilities afforded  by  the  numerous  canals  and  railroads 
which  centre  here,  affording  an  easy  communication 
with  all  sections  of  the  State  and  with  the  great  west- 
ern valle  v. 

The  next  object  of  interest  is  the  Monument  of  the 
great  treaty  of  Penn.  This  consists  of  a  simple  block 
of  mjarble  in  the  form  of  a  cone.  This  is  situated  on 
the  spot  where  stood  the  great  Elm  tree,  upon  the  bank 
of  the  Delaware,  at  Shackamaxon,  under  whose  wide- 
spread branches  William  Penn  effected  a  treaty  with 
the  Indians ;  a  compact,  which  for  its  justice  and  be- 
nevolence, has  conferred  immortal  honor  upon  the 
founder  of  Philadelphia.     It  is  said  that  during  the  rev- 


I  i 


ii 


m^>""- 


44d 


M0NUM8NT  OP  THE  tREnTY  Of  PENN. 


olutionary  war,  in  1775,  when  the  British  army  had 
possession  of  the  city  and  surrounding  district,  when 
fire-wood  became  scarce,  the  British  commander,  Gen- 
eral Simcoe,  from  a  regard  which  he  entertained  for 
the  character  of  William  Penn,  and  the  interest  which 
he  took  in  the  history  connected  with  the  tree,  order- 
ed a  guard  of  soldiefs  to  protect  it  from  the  axe» 

This  stately  tree  was  uprooted  by  a  storm  in  1810, 
when  the  trunk  measured  twenty-four  feet  in  circum- 
ierence.  The  Penn  Society,  in  order  to  preserve  a 
knowledge  of  the  spot  where  the  elm  tree  stood,  have 
caused  this  simple  block  of  marble  to  be  placed  there^ 
containing  the  following  inscriptions  : 

ON  THE  NORTH.  ON  THE  WfiST. 

Treaty  ground  of  William  Penn     Placed  by  the  Jt*eii7*.  Society  ^ 
Jlvd  the  Indian  nativeSf  1682.    Jt.  D.  1827,  to  mark  the  tile  of 

UNBROKEN   FAITH.  THE   GREAT   ELM   TREE. 


ON  THE  SOUTH, 

William  penn, 
BORN   1564, 
DIED   1718. 


ON  THE  EAST. 

PENNSYLVANIA   FOUNDED. 

1681, 

BY   DEEDS   OF   PEACE. 


The  last  objects  I  deemed  worthy  of  notice^  were 
the  fire  engines,  during  my  stay  in  the  city  there  be- 
ing no  less  than  three  alarms  of  fire.  Whether  these 
were  real  or  false,  I  did  not  learn,  but  the  noise  of  the 
firemen  was  tremendous.  At  the  head  of  the  proces- 
sion came  a  runner,  blowing  a  horn  with  a  deep  un- 
earthly sound )  next  came  a  long  team  of  men,  (for  no 
horses  are  employed,)  drawing  a  strong  rope  to  which 
the  ponderous  engine  is  attached,  with  a  large  bell  at 
the  top,  ringing  all  the  way;  next  followed  €  mob, 


< 


Vl/LOAR    FAMIIJARITV. 


44d 


Some  with  lanterns,  others  with  torches,  while  some 
would  be  shouting  at  the  top  of  their  lungs  ;  and  be- 
fore they  were  hall  out  of  hearing,  another  engine  fol- 
lowed, attended  with  a  like  escort,  the  whole  affair  re- 
sembling a  vision  more  than  real  lite.  It  is  however, 
no  sham,  for  these  yoting  men  are  ready  to  risk  their 
lives  in  extinguishing  a  fire ;  and  as  an  apology  for 
their  disturbing  Che  peace  of  the  city  when  there  was 
no  cause,  we  were  told  that  these  young  firemen  re- 
quired excitement. 

On  entering  on  my  tour,  I  had  made  up  my  mind 
that  as  a  matter  of  course,  I  would  fall  in  now  and  then 
with  free  and  easy  people.  I  am  bound  however  to 
say,  that  in  the  only  glaring  instances  ol  vulgar  lamil- 
iarity  which  I  experienced  during  the  whole  of  my 
tour,  which  were  but  few,  I  found  out  that  the  offend- 
ers had  crossed  the  Atlantic  only  eight  or  ten  yean 
before,  and  had  risen  rapidly  from  an  humble  station. 
This  and  other  things  confirmed  my  belief,  that  what- 
ever good  breeding  existed  here  in  the  middle  classes, 
could  certainly  not  be  of  foreign  importation.  There- 
fore, the  Europeans  and  John  Bull  in  particular,  when 
out  of  humour  with  the  manners  of  the  Americans,  is 
often  unconsciously  beholding  his  own  image  in  the 
mirror,  or  comparing  one  class  of  society  in  the  United 
States  with  another  of  his  own  country,  which  ought 
from  superior  affluence  and  leisure,  to  exhibit  a  higher, 
standard  of  refinement  and  intelligence. 

Hovi'ever,  I  might  say  of  this  city  as  of  some  others 
in  the  middle  and  Eastern  States,  in  spite  of  the  con- 
stant influx  of  uneducated  and  pennyless  adventurers 


M      ! 

i  j 

'I 


fr        ^\ 


450 


INCLINED    FLAKE. 


from  Europe,  I  believe  it  would  be  impossible  to  find 
a  like  number  of  cities,  with  as  many  inhabitants  in 
any  other  region  of  the  globe,  whose  average  moral, 
social  and  intellectual  condition  stand  so  high. 


CHAPTER    XLII  I. 

Inclined   Plane — Norristown — Bridge — JManufactures Valley 

Forge — Anecdote  of  Baron  Steuben — Villages — Reading — 
German  Language — Mountain  Gorge — Court  House — Man- 
ufactures  Bridges Union  Canal Mountain  Scenery 

Towns — Pottaville Coal  Trade — Manufactures Lehigh 

Coal — Mountains — Forests Sweet  Fern Lehigh  Summit 

Mine — Railroad — Mules  — 1  nteresting  Scenery Towns 

Harrisburg — Streets — Prospect — State  House — Panoramic 
View — Court  House — Susquehanna  River — Sublime  Scenery 
— Governor  Shunk — Political  Excitement — Cumberland  Val- 
ley— Carlisle — Dickinson  College — Streets — Charabersburg — 
Court  House — Manufactures. 

Chester  County, — On  my  way  from  Philadelphia  to 
the  coal  regions,  the  first  object  ol  interest  was  the  In- 
clined Plane,  about  4  miles  from  Philadelphia,  imme- 
diately on  the  lelt  bank  of  the  Schuylkill.  At  this 
place,  the  railroad  track  has  an  elevation  of  eighty- 
eight  feet  in  the  distance  of  five-eighths  of  a  mile.  The 
cars  are  drawn  up  by  means  of  a  large  and  powerful 
jcope,  attached  to  a  stationary  engine  at  the  top  of  the 
Plane.  The  track  is  entirely  straight,  and  the  rope  is 
guided  by  means  of  large  puUies  placed  in  the  ends  of 
short  posts  of  about  a  foot  in  length ;  these  being  plant- 
ed about  forty  feet   apart,  in  the   centre  between  the 


N  O  R  R  I  5  T  O  W  N  . 


451 


tracks.  The  cars  start  suddenly,  although  drawn  by  a 
rope  five-eighths  ol  a  mile  in  length.  So  soon  as  they 
arrive  at  the  top  of  the  Plain,  an  engine  being  in  read- 
iness, they  proceed  with  a  loss  ol  very  lew  minutes 
time. 

On  the  Philadelphia  and  Reading  Railroad  are  the 
towns  ol  Manayunk,  Spring  Mill  and  Norristown, 
which  contains  a  population  of  3750,  situated  on  the 
Schuylkill  River,  17  miles  from  Philadelphia.  There 
is  here  a  bridge  over  the  river,  eight  hundred  feet  in 
length,  erected  at  a  cost  of  thirty-one  thousand  two 
hundred  dollars.  The  town  contains  a  Courthouse, 
several  fine  Churches  and  a  considerable  Library. — 
There  are  also  here  some  manufactures ;  the  capital  in- 
vested is  about  three  hundred  and  fitly  thousand  dol- 
lars. Port  Kennedy,  about  three  miles  farther  up  the 
river,  is  a  place  well  situated  and  in  a  flourishing  con- 
dition. 

Valley  Forge,  situated  23  miles  from  Philadelphia, 
is  a  place  memorable  for  the  winter  quarters  and  suffer- 
ings of  the  American  army,  during  the  dreadful  win- 
ter of  1777,  and  for  the  changes  introduced  into  the 
army  by  the  celebrated  Baron  Steuben,  Aid-de-camp 
to  the  King  of  Prussia ;  a  noble  foreigner,  high  in  hon- 
or ank  rank,  who  hastened  from  his  home  to  share  our 
struggles  and  our  sufferings,  where  he  found  only  a 
few  thousand  famished,  half-naked  men,  looking  more 
like  beggars  than  soldiers  ;  cooped  up  in  miserable  log 
huts,  dragging  out  a  desolate  ti^inter  amid  straw. — 
With  this  poor  band  of  patriots  reduced  to  a  ragged 
horde,  with  scarcely  the  energy  to  struggle   for  self. 


M 


452 


n  B  A  I>  1  N  o  . 


preservation,  Steuben  entered  on  his  work  of  instruct- 
ing both  officers  and  noen,  which  it  is  said,  he  did  with 
all  the  sympathies  of  his  noble  nature  roused  in  our 
behalf.  It  is  said  his  ignorance  of  our  language  crip- 
pled him  at  first  very  much,  while  the  awkwardness 
of  our  militia,  who,  gathered  as  they  wefe  from  every 
quarter,  scarcely  knew  the  manual  exercise,  irritated 
him  beyond  measure.  They  could  not  execute  the 
simplest  mancBuvre  correctly,  and  SteubeDj  who  was  a 
oholeric  man,  though  possessed  of  a  soul  full  of  gene- 
rosity and  the  kindest  feelings  of  human  nature,  would 
swear  terribly  at  their  mistakes,  and  when  be  had  ex- 
hausted all  the  epithets  of  which  he  was  master,  would 
call  on  his  aid  and  ask  him  to  curse  in  his  stead  !  Still 
the  soldiers  loved  him,  for  he  \ym  mindful  of  their  suf- 
ferings, and  often  his  manly  form  \ya»  seen  stooping 
through  the  doors  of  their  hovels,  to  minister  to  their 
wants  and  relieve  their  distresses. 

Still  farther  up,  the  Schuylkill  are  Phcenixville,  Roy- 
er's  Ford  and  Pottstown.  The  latter  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  722,  and  is  situated  in  a  fertile  region  of  coun- 
try, 40  miles  up  the  Schuylkill  from  Philadelphia. — 
All  these  are  flourishing  villages,  surrounded  by  the 
fertile  lands  of  the  Sjchuylkill.. 

Berks  County.  Reading,  with  a  population  of  8,- 
410,  is  very  beautifully  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Schuylkill,  50  miles  northwest  of  Philadelphia. — 
The  town  was  regularly  and  handsomely  laid  out  in 
1784,  by  Thomas  and  Richard  Penn,  governors  and 
proprietors  of  the  province.  It  was  originally  settled 
by  Germans,  and  seveial  newspapers  are  still  printed 


R  E  A  D  I  N'  O  . 


453 


in  the  town  in  that  language,  which  is  also  chiefly  spo- 
ken in  the  town  and  the  surrounding  regions,  as  well 
ftfl  preached  in  a  large  portion  of  the  churches,  though 
English  is  generally  understood.  The  town  is  situated 
at  the  base  of  the  most  eastern  of  the  great  parallel 
rid^s  >Vhich  constitute  the  Alleghany  chain  of  moun- 
tains. Here  is  a  great  transverse  gorge,  which  gives  a 
passage  to  the  Schuylkill  river,  through  which  it  flows 
in  sublime  grandeur.  The  town  contains  a  Courthouse, 
two  hundred  by  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  deep,  e- 
rected  at  a  cost  of  fifty-nine  thousand  dollars;  three 
banks,  three  public  libraries,  twelve  churches  and  some 
manufactures.  Reading  h  particularly  famous  for  wool 
hats,  as  it  is  said  that  more  than  fitly  thousand  dozen 
wool  hats  have  been  manufactured  here  in  a  year,  for 
the  southern  and  western  markets.  There  are  also 
here  a  number  of  nail  factories.  Two  handsome  bride:- 
es  add  to  the  scenery,  each  of  which  is  six  hundred  feet 
in  length ;  and  the  one  over  the  Schuylkill  was  erect- 
ed at  a  cost  of  sixty  thousand  dollars.  The  Union  ca- 
nal terminates  here,  by  which  the  town  is  connected 
with  HarrisbuTg. 

Up  the  Schuylkill  from  Reading,  arc  Althouses, 
Mohrsville  and  Hamburg.  The  mountains  northwest 
of  Reading,  afford  picturesque  and  romantic  scenery. 
No  traveller  can  fail  to  remark  the  long  and  uniform 
parallel  ridges,  with  intervening  valleys,  like  so  many 
gigantic  wrinkles  and  furrows,  which  mark  the  geo- 
graphical outline  of  this  region.  The  long  and  narrow 
ridges  rarely  rising  more  than  2000  feet  above  the  val- 
leys, and  usually  not  more  than  half  that  height,  are 


t 


J I 


454 


COAl.     RKCI0N8. 


broken  here  and  there  by  transverse  fissures,  which 
give  passage  to  rivers,  much  the  same  as  that  at  Har* 
per's-Ferry,  near  the  lower  region  of  the  great  Valley. 

Schuylkill  County, — Port  Clinton,  situated  on  the 
Schuylkill,  is  quite  a  lively  place.  Here  stages  leave 
on  the  arrival  of  the  cars  daily,  (except  Sundays,)  for 
Tamaqua,  Mauch  Chunk  and  Wilkesboro.  About  eight 
miles  from  Port  Clinton,  is  Orwigsburg,  the  county 
town.  There  is  here  a  fine  Courthouse  and  other 
county  bildings.  Between  this  and  Pottsville  are  Au- 
burn and  Schuylkill  Haven. 

Pottsville,  w*ith  a  population  of  4340,  is  situated  in 
a  wild  district  on  the  Schuylkill,  in  the  midst  of  the 
coal  regions.  It  contains  many  handsome  dwellings, 
where  in  1824,  there  were  only  five  houses.  This 
place  is  chiefly  celebrated  for  its  immense  coal  trade, 
being  the  Anthracite,  perhaps  more  commonly  known 
as  Lehigh  coal,  whose  burning  is  not  attended  with 
that  disagreeable  smell  and  smoke  which  is  always  ex- 
perienced by  the  use  of  bituminous  coal. 

Here  I  was  agreeably  surprised  to  see  a  flourishing 
manufacturing  town,  with  tall  chimneys  of  numerous 
furnaces,  burning  night  and  day,  yet  quite  free  from 
smoke.  Leaving  this  clear  atmosphere  and  going  down 
into  one  of  the  mines,  it  was  a  no  less  pleasing  novelty 
to  find  that  I  could  handle  the  coal  without  soiling  my 
fingers.  Great  indeed  was  the  contrast  between  this 
and  other  towns  using  these  coal  and  those  using  the 
bituminous  coal  of  Nova  Scotia,  to  the  use  of  which  is 
coupled  the  penalty  ol  living  constantly  in  a  dark  at- 
mosphere of  smoke,  which  destroys  the  furniture,  drew 


LtniLiU    SUMMIT    MINC. 


455 


and  gardens,  blackens  the  buildings,  and  renders  clean* 
linesH  impossible. 

The  general  effect  of  the  long  unbroken  summits  of 
the  ridges  of  the  Allegany  Mountains  is  picturesque, 
and  the  jcenery  is  beautiful.  The  slopes  as  well  as  the 
summits  of  the  ridges  are  densely  covered  with  wood  5 
under  the  trees  the  ground  is  covered  with  an  ever- 
green, called  Sweet  Fern,  the  leaves  of  which  have  a 
very  agreeable  odor,  resembling  that  of  the  bog-myrtle, 
but  a  little  fainter. 

Among  the  most  remarkable  of  these  celebrated  coal 
mines,  is  the  Lehigh  Summit  Mine,  to  which  a  rail- 
road is  constructed,  having  a  gentle  ascent  for  nine 
miles.  Here  are  sixty  mules  employed  to  draw  up 
the  empty  cars  every  day.  In  the  evening,  the  mules 
themselves  are  sent  down  standing  four  abreast,  and 
feeding  out  of  mangers  all  the  way,  as  the  cars  are 
impelled  by  their  own  weight,  at  the  rate  of  about  fif- 
teen miles  an  hour,  which  presents  a  scene  truly  inter- 
estins  when  viewed  from  some  eminence. 

The  scene  is  no  less  interesting  to  see  them  start  in 
the  morning.  They  form  a  very  long  train  of  wag- 
gons, among  which  are  the  same  cars  that  are  to  carry 
them  back ;  and  I  was  told,  that  so  completely  do  they 
acquire  the  notion  that  it  is  their  business  through  life 
to  pull  weights  up  hill  and  ride  down  at  their  ease, 
that  if  any  of  them  are  afterwards  taken  away  from 
the  mine  and  set  to  other  occupations,  they  willingly 
drag  heavy  loads  up  steep  ascents,  but  obstinately  re- 
fuse to  pull  any  vehicle  down  hill,  coming  to  a  dead 
halt  at  the  commencement  of  the  slightest  slope. 


I 


11 


I 


456 


TOWNS. 


The  little  car  for  passengers  clegcends  the  whole  nin<s 
miles  impelled  by  the  weight  of  the  persons  in  it. — 
This  may  go  at  the  rate  of  twenty  miles  an  hour,  with- 
out the  least  danger  of  an  accident ;  a  man  sitting  in 
front  checking  the  speed  as  occa«ion  may  require,  and 
oiling  the  wheels  without  stoppmg.  The  burden  cars 
are  manrged  in  a  similar  way. 

In  some  of  these  celebrated  coal  mines  may  be  seen 
some  beautiful  coal  seams,  which  appear  very  smooth 
and  glittering.  In  one  ol  these  mines  may  be  seen  no 
less  than  thirteen  seams,  several  ct  which  are  very 
thick ;  in  some  may  be  found  white  grit  and  pebbles 
of  quartz,  about  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg.  These  great 
coal  regions,  to  all  appearances,  possess  treasures  inex- 
haustible. Vast  quantities  of  coal  have  been  taken 
from  this  district^  and  enough  yet  remains  for  ages.— 
The  stranger  views  the  scene  here  presented  with  no 
small  delight,  not  only  the  mines  and  the  miners,  but 
also  th3  wild  and  sublime  character  of  the  surrounding 
regions. 

At  Pottsville,  we.  took  stage  for  Harrisburg,  the  cap- 
ital of  the  State,  situated  at  a  distance  of  69  miles,' — 
This  part  of  our  route  contained  good  roads  for  moun- 
tain roads,  though  being  almost  one  continued  ascent 
and  descent,  with  mountain  scenery  of  the  most  wild 
and  romantic  character,  being  hill^,  ravines  and  moun- 
tains, with  few  settlements  till  ws  arrived  at  the  town 
of  East  Hanover,  having  a  population  of  2461,  situated 
20  miles  from  Harrisburg,  in  Dauphin  county,  a  town 
containing  some  fine  dwellings  and  several  handsome 
streets^  being  located  in  a  fertile  district,  highly  culti* 


Mitcd- 
Ter,  an( 
found  S 
hanna, 

Harr 
ry  beau 
lianna  r 
is  regiili 
nament( 
occupie 
ing  a  dc 
country 
The  Sta 
very  eli 
long  am 
one  of  t 
old  Key 
tains  a  ( 
the  nec( 
churche 
na,  two 
long,  wl 
for  foot 
This  gre 
number 
ing:  this 
dollars. 

The  I 
serves  a 
don  it,  es 
either  fr 


«A11RI5BI>RG-. 


457 


\ated-  Within  5  miles  of  this  place  is  West  Haiio- 
Ter,  another  handsome  town,  7  miles  from  which  we 
found  Singlestown,  situated  8  miles  from  the  Susque- 
hanna, at  which  we  soon  afterwards  arrived. 

Harrisburg,  containing  a  population  of  5,980,  is  ve- 
ry beautifully  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Susque- 
hanna river,  and  is  the  Capital  of  the  State.  The  town 
is  regularly  laid  out  and  well  built ;  the  streets  are  or- 
namented with  very  beautiful  shade  trees.  The  site 
occupied  by  the  town  is  high  and  commanding,  hav- 
ing a  delightful  prospect  of  the  river  and  surrounding 
country,  which  is  fertile  and  delightful  in  the  extreme. 
The  State-House  is  located  on  a  pleasant  site,  and  is  a 
very  elegant  structure,  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet 
long  and  eighty  feet  deep ;  the  cupola  of  which,  affords 
one  of  the  most  delightful  panoramic  views  that  the 
old  Keystone  State  can  produce.  The  town  also  con- 
tains a  Court-House,  a  very  handsome  structure,  with 
the  necessary  county  buildings,  and  a  number  of  fine 
churches.  There  is  here  a  bridge  over  the  Susquehan- 
na, two  thousand  eight  hundred  and  eighty-six  feet 
long,  which  contains  two  tracks  for  wagons,  and  two 
for  foot  passengers,  and  on  the  top  a  track  for  the  cars. 
This  great  structure  is  built  of  wood,  supported  by  a 
number  of  stone  piers.  The  whole  cost  of  construct- 
ing this  bridge  was  one  hundred  and  fifty-five  thousand 
dollars. 

The  noble  Susquehanna  presents  a  scene  which  de- 
serves all  the  praise  that  can  possibly  be  lavished  up- 
«n  it,  especially  when  viewed  at  the  close  of  the  day» 

ftither  from  a  window  in  th»  bridge,  or  the  hold  banjt 
20 


t  ! 


i5S 


SCEMRY  or  THE  SLSQUEHANM. 


between  the  town  and  the  river,  where  the  scen^  en- 
joyed is  exquisitely  rich  and  attractive.  The  quiel 
stream,  as  it  goes  shining  down  to  the  ocean,  is  full  of 
loveliness,  and  all  upon  it  or  near  it,  partakes  of  itt 
character.  In  looking  westward,  the  sight  enjoyed  i» 
imposing  in  the  extreme :  there  is  no  change  comes  o- 
ver  the  beauties — they  are  immortal — they  are  without 
mutation.  In  the  bosom  of  the  broad  river,  glowing 
with  the  golden  beams  of  the  retiring  sun,  sat  the  isl- 
ands that  break  the  unity  of  the  glittering  stream,  and 
augment  its  beauties. 

So  rich,  so  full  was  the  sunlight  upon  the  river,  thai 
these  islands  seemed  to  be  floatinor  in  the  groro-eous 
light.  Some  shot  out  prominent  angles  into  the  wa- 
ter, and  presented  salient  points  to  break  the  uniformi- 
ty, white  others  sat  swan-like  down,  their  rounded  ed- 
ges touching  the  stream,  as  if  they  had  been  dressed  by 
art  to  present  the  perfection  of  symmetry.  The  dark 
green  of  the  shrubbery  that  sprung  up  in  the  moisture 
of  the  islands,  was  mingled  with  the  golden  rays  of  the 
«un,  and  here  and  there  the  gentle  current,  by  passing; 
over  some  obstructing  object,  broke  into  a  ripple,  that 
danced  like  liquid  gold  in  the  sunlight. 

Thus  after  a  heavy  shower  of  rain,  when  the  sun 
was  setting  in  all  the  brightness  of  its  beauties,  I  sal 
absorbed  in  the  scene  until  it  began  to  drop  below  the 
hills,  and  the  warmth  of  the  coloring  upon  the  water, 
was  yielding  to  the  neutral  and  colder  tints  of  evening  ; 
but  upward  along  the  sides  of  the  hill,  the  georgeous- 
ness  of  the  sunlight  was  in  its  fulness.  Tliat  glorious 
sunset  on  the  islands  and  waters  of  the  noble  Susque- 


I^olitical  excitement. 


463 


kanna,  cannot  soon  fade  from  my  memory, — as  it  wai 
the  richest  and  loveliest  scene  I  witnessed  during  my 
short  sojourn  in  the  old  Keystone  Commonwealth  ;  a 
sce'ie  10  which  frequency  ot  enjoyment  in  my  opinion 
can  brin^  no  satiety ;  and  he  who  sits  down  to  such  a 
sublime  soenej  finds  the  impressions  of  unfriendly  as- 
sociation pasiiino-  away,  the  resolutions  of  revenge  which 
unprovoked  rudeness  excited,  melting  into  the  better 
determinations  of  the  heurt,  and  all  the  biiterness  and 
animosity  which  unchastened  pride  encourages,  are 
neutralized  and  lost  iii  the  deep  emotionsot'love  which, 
such  a  view  of  God's  works,  and  such  a  sense  of  man's 
enjoyment  necessaril}^  promote.; 

The  next  morning  I  went  in  company  with  my  host 
to  the  residence  of  the  Governor,  who  was  on  the  point 
of  death.  It  was  with  sad  emotions  that  the  many 
visiiors  in  the  room  gazed  upon  the  venerable,  but  de* 
chning  form  of  Governor  Shunk,  who  in  his  strength 
and  health  had  wielded  the  helm  of  their  government 
with  a  masterly  skill,  to  the  satisfaction  of  a  large  ma- 
jority. 

In  the  evening  about  dusk,  I  witnessed  a  political 
excitement.  This  parade  perambulated  the  streets, 
headed  by  a  band  of  music,  and  a  man  carrying  trans* 
parancies  with  lights  in  them,  in  which  the  names  of 
the  candidates  and  their  principles  were  conspicuously 
inscribed,  Oecasionallv  a  man  called  oul  with  asten- 
torian  voice,  "Principles,  the  whole  principles  and  no- 
thing but  principles,"  which  was  followed  by  a  loud 
English  huzzah,  while  at  intervals  a  single  blow  was 
struck  on  a  great  drum,  as  if  to  imitate  the  firing  of  a 


i 


460 


CUMBERLAND    VALLET. 


gun,  after  "which  they  repaired  to  the  Court-House, 
where  there  was  a  discussion. 

Cumberland  County.  After  crossing  the  Susque- 
hanna, we  entered  the  celebrated  Cumberland  Valley, 
the  garden-spot  of  the  State,  presenting  all  that  is  de- 
lightful in  agriculture.  A  few  hours  travel  brought  us 
to  Carlisle,  containing  a  population  of  4351,  situated 
on  a  commanding  and  beautiful  eminence,  possessing 
all  that  is  lovely,  being  the  most  beautiful  site  for  an 
inland  town  of  any  I  seen  during  my  tour.  It  is  the 
seat  of  Dickinson  College,  the  halls  oi  which  are  the 
most  splendid  stone  structures,  adorned  with  very  grace- 
ful trees.  The  town  contains  many  other  beautiful 
buildings  situated  on  broad  and  handsome  streets,  bor- 
dered v/ith  avenues  of  shade  trees.  On  our  route  to 
Chambersburg,  we  stopped  at  New  Ville  and  Shippens- 
burg,  two  very  beautiful  towns  of  fifteen  hundred  in- 
habitants, situated  in  the  midst  of  the  valley. 

Franklm  County.  Chambersburg,  with  a  popula- 
tioi^  of  4030,  is  a  very  beautiful  town,  situated  in  the 
handsome  and  fertile  valley  of  the  northeastern  branch 
of  the  Conecocheague  river,  being  only  a  continuation 
of  the  admirable  soil  of  the  Cumberland  Valley.  The 
town  contains  a  Court-House,  which  cost  fifty  thous- 
and dollars.  Tr»ere  bra  here  some  other  public  build- 
ings belonging  to  the  county.  In  the  vicinity  of  the 
town  is  an  excellent  water-power,  where  are  located 
several  manufactures.  The  town  is  regularly  built, 
and  contains  eight  fine  churches.  Afler  leaving  the 
town,  two  hours  travel  through  a  splendid  region, 
brought  ug  to  the  Maryland  line. 


SiUMU^ifeM 


^ui)i.\u  or  Tin:  iiAi\ks. 


401 


Id- 
hc 
ted 

ilt, 
the 

Ollt 


CHAPTER    XLIV. 

STATE  or  MARYLAND. 

Deep  Cut— Sliding  of  the  banks — Dirt  cars — Hagerstown — Stage 
Coach — Williamsport — Conecochea|ruo  river — Aqueduct— Po- 
tomac river — Arrival  at  VVuichester — General  course  ot'  tlio 
Route — Aspect  of  the  Route — Review  ol  tiie  Middio  and 
Eastern  States. 

Washington  County.  On  our  arrival  at  the  Deep 
Cut,  north  of  Hagerstown,  we  found  the  railroad  track 
entirely  clogged  up  with  huge  rocks  and  earth,  which 
had  slid  down  that  morning,  which  was  caused  by  the 
rain  which  fell  in  torrents  durino;  the  ni^ht.  which  had 
SO  thoroughly  softened  the  banks  as  to  cause  them  to 
slide  in  great  masses,  which  could  not  be  removed  till 
the  arrival  of  the  cars,  although  twelve  or  fifteen  men 
were  eno;ao;ed  in  doina;  so.     On  the  south  end  of  this 

CD      CJ  O 

cut  several  dirt  cars  were  reserved  by  the  workmen, 
for  the  purpose  of  conveying  the  passengers  to  Hagers- 
town, three  or  four  miles  distant. 

The  passengers  had  to  leave  the  train  on  its  arrival, 
and  v/ade  through  mud  and  water  and  climb  the  huge 
rocks,  which  had  slid  down  into  the  track,  so  that  we 
might  gain  the  opposite  end  of  the  cut.  As  we  enter- 
ed this  muddy  gap,  I  overheard  some  young  ladies  ex- 
claim, "well,  we  are  in  a  pretty  fix."  Woids  which 
I  olten  heard  used,  and  have  known  myself  to  use  sim- 
ilar words.  On  this  occasion  however,  the  word  fix 
sounded  so  bad  to  my  ear,  that  I  had  curiosity  enough 
to  note  it.  This  at  once  struck  me  the  application  of 
the  word  //t  muM  be  of  Hibernian  orijj-in,  as  an  Irish 


^glli■'^'■«^li!l»u»,..,. 


4G!J 


H  A  r,  K  n  S  T  O  W  K. 


geiilleman,  King  Corney,  in  Miss  Edgeworth's  story  of 
Onriand,  says,  "IMl  fix  him  and  his  wounds."  The 
substantive  "fix"  is  certainly  in  some  degree  vulgar; 
Init  the  verb  is  used  in  New  England  by  well-educa- 
ted people,  in  the  sense  of  the  French  "cf?Tfl7ig(?r,"  or 
the  English  "do,"  in  such  words  as  to  fix  the  hair,  the 
table,  the  fire,  &c.,  which  I  presume  means  to  dress  the 
hair,  lay  the  table,  make  up  the  fire,  &c. 

The  dilemma  in  which  we  were  placed,  was  soon 
overcome,  and  we  found  ourselves  snugly  seated  on 
our  trunks,  placed  on  the  dirt  car,  drawn  by  horses,  in 
which  way  we  entered  Hagerstown  in  full  trot,  of 
'  oivrse  making  as  much  display  as  we  could  with  pro- 
priety, nevertheless  our  carriages  not  being  of  the  high- 
est and  most  extravagant  finish. 

Hagerstown,  with  a  population  of  7197,  is  situated 
west  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  on  Antictsm  creek,  in  the  cen- 
tre of  a  fertile  and  beautiful  valley,  in  the  midst  of  a 
very  flourishing  German  settlement.  The  town  is  reg- 
ularly built,  the  streets  being  broad,  straight  and  well 
paved.  There  is  here  a  very  beautiful  Court-House, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  fifty  thousand  dollars.  There  are- 
also  here  nine  large,  fine  churches. 

The  morning  after  my  arrival,  I  entered  an  old  stage 
for  Winchester,  in  Virginia,  which  I  soon  found  waa 
not  as  comfortable  as  the  dirt  cars,  by  iiity  per  cent, 
but  was  the  best  I  could  do.  After  scores  of  jolts  and 
thumps,  we  arrived  at  Williamsport,  a  very  beautiful 
little  town  of  500  inhabitant^:,  situated  at  the  junclioa 
of  the  Conecocheague  river  with  the  Potomac.  The 
Cliesnpeake  and  Ohio  canal  passes  through  this  place 


R  O  U  T  R  . 


i(S3 


and  crosses  the  Conecocheague  river  hy  a  utone  aque- 
duct, of  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  paces,  or  lour  hun- 
dred and  two  feet  in  length,  supported  in  the  centre  by 
three  very  beautiful  arches. 

At  Williamsport  we  crossed  the  raging  Potomac, 
which  had  been  swelled  to  a  fearful  extent  by  the  re- 
cent rains.  The  ferry-boat  however,  by  first  going  a 
considerable  distance  up  the  river  and  then  crossing, 
secured  the  landing  on  the  Virginia  shore ;  and  after 
travelling  lengthwise  through  Berkeley  county,  I  ob- 
served the  crops  not  already  gathered,  were  heavy  and 
flourishing.  Leaving  Martinsburg  at  2  o'clock,  I  arri- 
ved in  the  evening  at  Winchester,  from  which  I  had 
set  out. 

It  was  with  no  small  delight  that  I  again  entered 
Winchester,  which  I  had  left  nearly  three  months  be- 
fore, during  which  time  I  travelled  over  the  following 
route,  as  a  general  course,  without  taking  into  consid- 
eration or  account  the  excursions  and  perambulations, 
viz :  to  the  city  of  Washington ;  thence  to  Baltimore  ; 
thence  up  the  Chesapeake  bay  to  Frenchtown  ;  thence 
across  the  State  of  Delaware  to  New  Castle  ;  thence  up 
the  Delaware  river  to  Camden  ;  thence  across  the  State 
of  New  Jersey  to  South  Amboy  ;  through  the  bay  and 
strait  of  Amboy  to  the  city  of  New  York,  thence  up 
the  Hudson  river  to  Albany ;  thence  west,  up  the  Mo- 
hawk valley,  and  through  western  New  York  to  the 
city  of  Buffalo  on  Lake  Erie;  thence  down  the  banks 
of  the  Niagara  river  to  Lewiston ;  thence  down  the  riv- 
er Niagara  and  across  Lake  Ontario,  to  the  city  of  To- 
ronto, in  the  Home  District  in  Upper  Canada;  thenco 


i6i 


R  0  U  t  E  i 


down  Lake  Ontario  and  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  to  the 
city  of  Quebec  in  Lower  Canada.  From  Quebec  I  a- 
gain  sailed  up  the  St*  Lawrence,  as  far  as  the  city  of 
Montreal ;  thence  southeast  to  St.  John's  on  the  river 
Sorell ;  thence  up  that  river  and  Lake  Champlain  to 
White  Hall  J  thence  South  to  Saratoga  Springs;  thence 
north  through  Lake  George  and  across  Lake  Champlain 
to  the  city  of  Burlington,  in  the  State  of  Vermont, 
thence  up  the  Onion  valley  and  continuing  an  east 
course,  to  the  White  Mountains  in  the  State  of  New 
Hampshire  ;  thence  southeast  to  the  city  of  Portland  in 
the  State  of  Maine ;  tlience  through  the  bay  of  Casco 
and  up  the  Kennebeck  river,  to  Augusta,  the  capital  of 
the  State ;  thence  across  the  country  to  Belfast  on  the 
Penobscot  bay  ;  thence  up  the  Penobscot  river  to  the 
city  of  Bangor  ;  thence  northeast  across  the  country  to 
Calais,  on  the  St.  Croix  river ;  thence  down  the  St. 
Croix  river  and  through  Passamaquoddy  bay,  to  St. 
John's  in  New  Brunswick  j  thence  across  the  bay  of 
Fundy  to  Annapolis  in  Nova  Scotia;  thence  northeast 
to  Cape  Blomidon  ;  thence  across  the  Basin  of  Minesto 
South  Joggins ;  thence  south  to  Windsor ;  thence  a- 
cross  the  country  to  the  city  of  HaUfax,  on  the  Atlan- 
tic shore;  thence  by  steam  ship  to  Boston,  in  the  State 
ot  Massachusetts ;  thence  up  the  Merrimack  valley,  to 
Concord,  the  capital  of  New  Hampshire,  and  back  to 
Boston  on  the  same  route ;  thence  southeast  by  the  way 
of  Plymouth,  to  Martha's  Vineyard;  thence  northwest 
across  Vineyard  Sound  and  up  Narragansett  bay,  to  the 
city  of  Providence,  in  the  State  of  Rhode  Island  ; 
thence  up  the  Blackstone  valley  to  Worcester,  in  Mas* 


ASPECT    OF    THK    ROUtS. 


465 


sachusetts;  thence  west  to  Springfield  ;  thence  down 
the  Connecticut  valley,  to  the  city  of  New  Haven  in 
the  State  of  Connecticut ;  thence  down  Long  Island 
Sound  to  the  city  oi  New  York ;  thence  southwest 
tlirough  the  State  of  New  Jersey  by  the  way  of  Tren- 
ton, to  the  city  of  Philadelphia  in  Pennsylvania  ;  thence 
up  the  Schuylkill  valley  to  Pottsville,  in  the  coal  re- 
gions ;  thence  west  to  Harrisburg,  on  the  Susquehanna 
river  ;  thence  through  the  Cumberland  valley,  to  Ha- 
gerstown  in  the  State  of  Maryland ;  thence  south  to 
Winchester,  in  Virginia. 

That  portion  of  the  Northern  States  and  the  Cana- 
das  through  which  this  route  led,  presented  every  va- 
riety of  mountain,  hill,  plain  and  valley.  The  Apa- 
lachian  or  Alleghany  range,  extends  through  the  for- 
mer region,  from  southwest  to  northeast,  in  several  par- 
allel ridges,  which  attains  in  Pennsylvania  its  widest 
limits.  None  of  these  however,  reach  the  elevation  of 
the  highest  summits  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  or  the  White 
Mountains.  The  Alleghany  range  is  generally  cover^ 
ed  with  forests,  and  contains  many  wild  solitudes  sel- 
dom trodden  by  the  foot  of  man,  affording  shelter  to 
various  species  of  game.  The  mineral  products  of  the 
Middle  States  are  various  and  valuable.  Bituminous 
and  anthracite  c  ^al,  several  kinds  of  iron  ore,  salt,  &c. 
and  excellent  building  materials,  together  with  clays 
useful  in  the  arts,  are  among  the  treasures  in  which  it 
abounds.  Mining  industry  has  acquired  importance 
from  the  activity  and  success  with  which  it  has  lately 
been  pushed.     The  public  works  in  this  section  are 

particularly  remarkable  for  their  number  ~nd  magni- 
20* 


' 


!     il 


M-y 


illTl     RKVII'W  OF   Tin:  MIOni.K   AM)  Ki^STLRX  flTATKJ:. 


tude.  In  general,  the  soil  is  fertile,  and  particularly 
favorable  to  the  production  of  every  species  of  grain. 
Wheat  is  the  principal  object  of  culture. — Indian  corn, 
rye  and  barley  are  also  very  extensively  raised.  The 
fruits  common  to  the  temperate  regions,  are  abundant 
and  of  an  excellent  quality.  The  commerce  of  the 
Middle  States  is  immense,  and  chiefly  carried  on  thro' 
the  cities  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  to  which  it 
centres.  The  trade  however,  of  a  considerable  part  ot 
Pennsylvania  and  Delaware,  flows  to  Baltimore. 

The  surface  of  ihe  New  England  States  is  infinitely 
varied.  In  the  interior  it  is  mountainous,  with  fertile 
valleys  between.  The  land  along  the  sea  shore  pre- 
sents in  general  an  irregular  surface,  consisting  of  hills 
and  ridges^  with  flats  of  moderate  extent.  The  inland 
portion  towards  the  mountains,  presents  an  almost  con- 
stant succession  of  short  hills  and  narrow  valleys. — 
There  are  no  extensive  plains  throughout  the  whole  of 
New  England.  Much  of  the  soil  is  good,  yet  in  gen* 
eral  it  requires  diligent  cultivation,  and  compels  the 
farmer  to  use  great  industry  to  procure  good  crops  \  and 
although  it  well  repays  the  labor  of  the  husbandman, 
it  is  perhaps  on  the  whole,  less  fruitful  than  many  oth-; 
er  parts  of  the  United  States. 

A  very  active  commerce  is  carried  on  from  the  porta 
of  New  England,  with  all  parts  of  the  world.  Their 
ships  spread  their  sails  in  every  sea,  and  her  lumber, 
manufactures,  and  the  produce  of  her  fisheries  are  ex-^ 
tensively  exported.  Almost  every  village  carries  on 
some  handcrafl,  and  the  farmer  often  employs  the  long 
winter  evenings  in  some  gainful  task.     Thqs  are  pro-^ 


aEViRW  OP  TWR  Mmm.R  and  k.artkhn  staTk».  467 

iluced  many  little  objects,  which  although  in  them- 
selves, arc  of  small  value,  yet  in  the  aggregate,  consti* 
tute  a  source  of  considerable  wealth  to  the  community, 
and  are  produced  to  such  an  extent,  as  almost  to  rival 
in  value  the  products  of  the  large  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments. 

A  large  proportion  of  these  vast  regions  is  suscepti- 
ble of  cultivation  nevertheless,  including  a  great  vari- 
ety of  surface,  soil  and  climate,  yet  it  is  of  a  quality 
calculated  to  repay  the  labor  bestowed  upon  it.  A 
considerable  portion  of  its  surface  is  occupied  by  moun- 
tains, which  from  their  height  and  ruggedness,  forbid 
all  attempts  to  render  them  productive  in  the  means 
of  subsistence  to  man.  There  are  no  deserts  of  any 
great  extent,  and  few  barrens — nothing  like  the  vast 
sterile  plains  which  exist  in  other  parts  of  the  world. 
These  same  regions  also  embrace  a  variety  of  climate, 
as  we  find  the  summits  of  some  mountain  peaks  capped 
for  six  months,  others  for  eight  months,  while  Mount 
Washington  and  some  others  of  nearly  equal  height, 
are  crowned  with  snow  for  ten  months  in  the  year, 
while  the  valleys  are  clothed  in  the  most  luxuriant  ver- 
dure. The  winters  are  long  and  severe.  Snow  often 
falls  to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  feet,  and  the  cold  is 
so  piercing,  as  to  oblige  the  inhabitants  to  make  very 
diligent  provision  against  it.  Spring  returns  late  in 
April,  and  in  summer  the  heat  is  great. 

No  part  of  the  world  can  be  more  abundantly  wat- 
ered by  streams,  which  not  only  give  fertility  to  their 
borders,  but  are  ready  to  watt  the  gifts  of  the  soil  to  the 
ocean,  and  bring  back  to  the  inhabitants  the  products 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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ISO    *^™      MIH 

kUU 

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Photographic 

Sdeiices 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


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4^8  REVIEW  OF  THE  MIDDLC  AND  EASTERN  Sf ATKj. 


of  all  other  climes.  Neither  the  States  nor  individuals 
have  been  slow  in  improving  and  extending  these  nat- 
ural advantages ;  and  the  spirit  with  which  they  have 
been  undertaken  and  the  perseverance  they  have  shown 
in  executing  the  most  magnificent  plans,  have  shed  a 
lustre  on  the  American  name.  All  the  various  obsta- 
cles in  the  navigation  of  the  most  important  rivers, 
have  been  overcome,  by  removing  the  bars  or  ledges 
which  obstructed  their  channels,  or  by  side-cuts,  locks 
and  dams.  These  great  improvements  have  already 
given  fresh  life?  to  manufactures,  and  encouraged  the 
establishment  rf  new  ones;  invigorated,  and  in  many 
places  created  internal  trade ;  promoted  agriculture, 
which  requires  a  cheap  and  easy  transportation  for  the 
bulky  articles  which  it  consumes  and  produces ;  and 
developed  in  an  astonishing  degree,  the  mining  indus- 
try of  the  country. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Middle  and  Eastern  States 
have  equally  surpassed  all  other  people  in  the  number 
and  extent  ot  their  Railroads,  having  in  about  fifteen 
years,  constructed  nearly  four  thousand  miles  of  these 
artificial  levels,  over  which  cars  are  propelled  by  lo- 
comotive steam-engines,  at  the  rate  of  from  20  to  30 
miles  an  hour.  Although  this  contrivance  is  less  a- 
dapted  than  canals  to  the  conveyance  of  bulky  arti- 
cles, yet  in  these  regions,  it  possesses  considerable  ad- 
vantages over  that  mode  of  transport :  puch  as  that  of 
not  being  interrupted  by,  and  being  suited  to,  certain 
localities,  in  which  artificial  water  communication 
would  be  impracticable. 

The  manufactures  of  those  regions  are  very  exten- 


REVinW  OF  THE  MIDDLE  AND  EASTKUN  STATES.    4tJ9 

»ive.  The  different  establishments  of  various  kinds  are 
too  numerous  to  specify,  a  few  of  which  have  ahvady 
been  sketched.  The  cotton  factories  in  particular,  em- 
ploy a  vast  number  of  hands  and  a  great  amount  of  cap- 
ital. Many  of  those  ebtablishnients  are  of  recent  ori- 
gin, yet  in  their  infancy  as  they  are,  they  have  risen 
to  great  respectability,  though  being  as  yet,  ovt»rbalan- 
ced  bv  agriculture  and  commerce.  No  country  in  the 
world  can  compete  with  those  regions,  in  the  article 
of  coarse  cotton  goods,  neither  as  to  quality  or  price. 
Cottons,  which  in  1812,  were  worth  25  cents  a-yard, 
can  now  be  bought  of  a  better  quality  for  7  or  8  cents. 
And  even  in  the  finer  quality  of  goods,  great  advance- 
ment has  been  made.  It  was  the  policy  of  the  British 
government  before  the  revolution,  to  discourage  Amer- 
ican manufactures,  and  thus  to  keep  the  country  in  a 
state  of  great  dependence.  But  that  has  gone  by,  and 
should  events  ever  cut  off  a  supply  of  British  manufac- 
tures, the  country  could  do  without  them,  unless  Great 
Britain  and  other  countries  shall  consent  in  a  fair  way, 
to  receive  American  breadstuffs  in  exchancre  for  their 
manufactures. 

In  so  great  a  reojion,  manners  and  societv  are  also 
varied.  In  the  New  England  States,  the  inhabitants 
are  almost  exclusively  of  unmixed  English  origin,  and 
though  never  united  as  a  political  whole,  they  have  at 
different  periods  been  connected  for  their  common  in- 
terests. From  the  earliest  settlement  of  their  country, 
they  have  enjoyed  peculiar  advantages  for  literary  and 
religious  instruction,  and  trained  to  habits  of  industry, 
economy  and  enterprise,  by  the  circumstances  of  their 


I! 


I        !l 


! 


fj^^ajess 


SSW!!aS3!K»«»ffl«i!2r,a 


iTO    REVIEW  or  TlIK  MIDULtt  AND  BASTICRN  ?>TATK4. 


peculiar  situation,  as  well  as  by  the  dangers  of  pro- 
longed wars,  they  present  traits  of  character  which  are 
considered  as  remarkable  abroad,  as  they  arc  common 
at  home. — While  on  the  other  hand,  the  Middle  States 
were  originally  settled  by  people  of  various  countries, 
having  different  habits,  leelings  and  opinions.  Socie- 
ty therefore,  does  not  possess  that  uniform  character 
which  admits  of  a  general  description.  The  people 
have  not  that  luiity  of  feeling  and  interest  which  is  ob- 
served in  the  New  England  and  Southern  States  ;  and 
the  only  reason  for  their  being  classed  together,  is 
their  contiguity.  They  are  slow  in  uniting  for  any 
public  purpose,  and  there  seems  to  be  but  little  sympa- 
thy or  conunon  feeling,  which  prompts  them  to  act  in 
concert  for  i)ublic  affairs.  The  grojit  body  is  of  Brit- 
ish descent;  but  in  New  York  and  Maryland  there  are 
niany  d'ernmiis,  and  in  l*ennsylvania  they  are  so  nu- 
merous as  to  constitute  in  some  respects,  a  separate 
conununity,  retaining  their  own  language,  and  being 
often  ignorant  of  English.  In  New  York  and  New 
Jersey,  there  are  many  descendants  of  the  original 
Dutch  settle  i\s  of  New  Amsterdam,  and  in  some  sec- 
tions the  Dutch  language  is  partially  spoken.  It  is  im- 
possible, therefore,  for  an  untravelled  author,  aiid  a 
farmer  at  that,  to  picture  with  any  degree  of  satisfac- 
tion, the  heterogeneous  customs  and  fashions  developed 
in  such  a  sociotv. 

The  stranger  may  see  thousands  of  forlorn  pessons, 
from  the  London  street-walker,  to  thejblack-eyed  dam- 
sels who  hailed  from  every  clime,  all  of  whom  have 
wandered  hither;  and  the  saloons  re-echo  with  the 


&F.V1BW  or  ntu  mvvLiL  and  i^asixrn  mtatks.  47! 


•«•» 


minstrolsy  of  every  land.  Here  he  may  hear  voices 
and  harpd  of  singing  men  and  women,  from  ahnoit  ev- 
ery region  of  the  world;  he  may  be  entertanied  with  the 
music  and  dances  of  parties,  whose  performance  re- 
minds him  of  the  exhibitions  of  the  Choctaws  or  kin- 
dred tribes. — Or  he  may  witness  the  singular  antics  of 
a  troupe  of  dark  brown  Gipsies,  whose  supple  move* 
ments,  melodious  voices  and  brilliant  eyes,  with  lids 
and  lashes  dyed  like  these  of  the  Egyptian  almahs. — 
The  gipsey  dance,  although  very  much  in  step  and 
movement,  like  what  is  often  called  a  regular  heel  and 
toe,  excels  it  much  in  quickness  and  animation.  The 
male  performer  holds  himself  erect,  looking  daggers, 
by  the  appearance  of  his  desperate  Irowns,  and  the  fe- 
male indulging  in  wanton  movements,  while  both  are 
exhorted  to  "put  it  down,"  by  the  wild  and  exciting 
chorus  of  the  gipsey  band. 

Among  the  multifarious  population  of  those  regions, 
may  be  seen  many  Jews ;  which  singular  people  are  al- 
most invariably  clothed  in  long  black  tunics,  reaching 
nearly  to  the  ankle.  Their  beards  are  mostly  long  and 
flowing,  and  in  thoir  thin  sallow  faces  v  e  read  the  pa- 
tience and  the  craft  for  which  thoy  ha\  u  been  remark- 
able. Being  parsimonious,  industrious  and  sober,  they 
profit  by  the  wealth  of  the  land,  and  become  largely 
engaged  in  the  trade  and  commerce  ot  our  country. 

Education  is  here  more  universal  than  in  .uiy  other 
part  of  the  world.  It  is  exceedingly  hard  to  find  per- 
sons ot  mature  age,  (except  they  be  aliens,)  who  have 
not  been  instructed  in  the  common  branches  of  school 
(earning  ;  and  as  a  general  thing,  it  may  be  said  their 


472    REVIK\y  OF  TMR  MiDDLK  AND  EASTERN  STATE?. 


education  does  not  merely  instruct  thorn  in  the  arts  of 
reading  and  writing,  but  that  whole  system  of  moral, 
iniellectual  and  religious  training  and  cultivation,  which 
is  necessary  to  develope  the  nobler  faculties  of  our  na- 
ture, and  give  to  the  character  of  man,  the  impress  and 
likeness  of  Him,  in  whose  image  he  was  created.  In- 
stitutions of  learning  and  education  were  established  at 
an  early  period,  by  the  first  aettlers  of  New  England, 
some  ot  which  at  the  present  day,  are  the  most  re- 
spectable and  efficient  in  the  Union.  A  large  portion 
of  the  distinguished  men  of  the  United  States  have 
been  educated  at  Harvard  and  Yale  Colleges  ;  and  tho' 
there  are  many  similar  institutions  in  other  States,  still 
many  students  from  the  South  and  West  are  annually 
taught  in  the  Colleges  of  New  England. 

The  noble  institutions  of  this  kind,  of  the  Middle 
and  Eastern  sections  of  the  Union,  have  made  the  path- 
way to  honorable  distinction,  as  broad  and  as  straight 
from  the  door  of  the  humblest  cottage,  as  from  the 
proudest  mansion  in  the  land.  Genius,  and  industry, 
and  energy  find  no  barriers  to  arrest  their  career.  The 
abolition  of  arbitrary  distinctions  and  classes  of  society, 
has  given  all  men  an  equal  start  in  the  race  of  prefer- 
ment, and  brought  thousands  of  eager  competitors  into 
the  field,  whose  nobler  faculties  would  otherwise  have 
remained  forever  undeveloped.  The  whole  talent  of 
the  country  is  thus  forced  inio  action  ;  and  the  results 
are  visible  in  every  vocation  in  life.  The  results  can 
be  seen  in  agricultural  fairs,  in  exhibition-rooms,  and 
also  in  the  Patent  Office,  where  the  stranger  may  ex- 
amine the  specin^eni  of  New   England  ingenuity  and 


liKvn:w  or  nn:  middle  and  lastern  sTAtEs.  473 


bkill  which  arc  there  displu^'ed.  There  wo  have  visi- 
ble and  significant  monuments  of  the  genius  and  indus* 
try  of  these  people.  In  the;ie  same  regions,  we  may 
sec  many  men  givinj.^  direction  to  thi*  policy  of  their 
country,  who  in  early  youth  guided  the  plow, or  wield- 
ed the  hammer  or  the  axe. — And  even   in  the  capitol 


ol  the  Ui 


ol  th( 


le  union,  may  De  seen  many  oi  tnose  same  men, 
sitting  in  high  places  of  the  land  and  shedding  lustre 
on  the  Republic,  who  at  one  time  made  the  anvil  of 
lapstonc  ring  with  their  vigorous  blows,  or  plied  the 
busy  needle,  or  with  their  own  brawny  arms,  brought 
into  action  that  most  potent  of  all  human  agents — the 
printing  press. 

It  is  the  object  of  the  people  of  those  regions,  as 
their  institutions  as  well  as  ours,  rest  upon  the  virtue 
and  intelligence  of  tiie  people,  to  difi'use  knowledgef 
and  sound  principlrs  amongst  them,  and  keep  them  if 
possible,  up  to  the  level  of  their  institutions,  and  teach 
them  their  duties  under  their  institutions.  It  this  is 
not  done,  it  is  evident  the  governnifiit  must  sink  to 
their  level.  Let  the  people  become  ignorant  and  de- 
based, and  the  laws  must  be  adapted  to  their  capacity, 
and  the  Constitution  of  the  land  brought  down  to  their 
standard  ol  morality  and  intelligence. — Public  senti- 
ment will  become  vitiated,  and  a  spirit  of  licentious- 
ness and  disorganization  pervade  the  whole  body  of 
society.  It  requires  no  spirit  of  prophecy  to  foretell 
the  consequences  of  such  a  state  of  things.  If  the  foun- 
dation of  our  political  edifice  becomes  rotten,  the  su- 
perstructure must  inevitably  fall.  It  is  to  be  regret- 
ted, that  some  of  the  other  States  of  the  T;iiion  do  no^ 


474   REV^IW  OF  THE  MIDDLE  AND  EASTERN  kTAT£». 


take  the  same  measures  the  better  to  prevent  such  a 
disaster,  as  they  are  all  perfectly  aware  that  the  en- 
croachments of  the  executive  power  upon  popular  priv- 
ilege, is  always  in  proportion  to  the  decline  in  the 
standard  of  virtue  and  intelligence.  The  pages  of  his- 
tory abound  with  admonitions  on  this  subject,  which 
are  no  less  frequent  than  impressive.  An  ignorant 
populace  has  always  been  the  instrument  by  which 
ambition  and  treason  have  accomplished  their  unhal- 
lowed designs. — And  if,  in  the  progress  of  events  the 
day  shall  ever  arrive,  in  which  some  artful  demagogue 
or  bold  military  chieftain,  shall  erect  a  throne  upon  the 
ruins  of  the  Constitution  of  our  country,  his  pathway 
to  power  will  be  strewed  with  the  fragments  of  the 
pulpits,  the  school-houses  and  the  printing-presses  of 
the  Middle  and  Eastern  States,  which  now  sow  the 
seeds  of  virtue  and  knowledge  broadcast  through  the 
land. 

It  may  with  some  propriety  be  said,  that  the  Middle 
and  Eastern  States  of  the  Union  govern  to  a  considera- 
ble extent,  the  spirit  of  the  age. — And  happily  for  man- 
kind, there  are  none  who  can  escape  the  powar  of  this 
age ;  and  no  one  can  tell  how  great  may  be  its  influ- 
ence upon  the  princes  and  people  of  the  kingdoms  and 
empires  of  the  world.  The  exercise  of  despotic  power 
has  always  been  precarious,  in  ages  which  could  not 
boast  the  superior  intelligence  of  the  nineteenth  cen- 
tury. The  day  is  past  when  despotism  can  contend 
iuccessfuily  against  the  ceaseless  encroachments,  and 
the  sure,  though  almost  imperceptible  advances  of  free- 
dom.    The  unconquerable  spirit  of  intelligence,  ever 


f 


C  O  N  C  L  u  a  I  o  %* , 


475 


on  the  advance,  too  vigjilant  and  too  crafty  for  the  sen- 
tinel, passes  the  barrirr  Mns«^«>rt,  and  whispers  things 
which  will  one  day  be  proc!airnrd  aloud.  We  have 
seen  this  glorious  spirit  growing  and  expanding,  until 
France  and  nearly  all  Germany  rejoices  in  its  name, 
and  we  witness  its  perfection  and  most  noble  results  in 
the  incomparable  happiness  of  our  blessed  country. — 
This  irresistible  spirit — the  intelligent,  thoughtful,  re- 
ligious spirit  of  the  age,  is  effecting  reform  throughout 
Europe.  We  hear  of  its  clamoring  at  the  portals  of 
the  Austrian  Empire,  ana  tapping  for  admittance  to 
every  council  chamber. — It  even  addresses  the  judg- 
ment and  the  virtues  of  the  Russian  Czar,  and  begs  to 
be  established  beneath  the  fostering  rod  of  his  prodi- 
gious power. 


THE      END. 


£  R  R  A  T  A. 


Page  27,  lino  25,  should  read  'Hn  a  hall  02feethngj  ^Afeet 
wide  and  36  feet  high.^^ 

'■  \  ^^70  feet  above  tiie  riivr.^^      ' 

^'Amboy  straitJ^ 

<'//js  wife." 

^'seated  close  bv." 

''Col.  Fleury.'^' 

^Hhrough  a  canal." 

''1G86.'' 

"Foxes  Kill,  Rutten  Kill,  and 

''he  was  master  of." 
'•'•rivea  rocks." 
^'-leave  a  name." 
'•between  themP 
"dilute  it  with  water." 
"clay  or  tiie  pipesJ' 
^hww  runs." 
^^Shooting  Galleries." 
"carry  off  the  «Wnc." 
^'Sawyers  river." 
^^and  finished  in  1742,  or." 
"splendid  granite  structure." 
"with  tivo  small  children." 


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